Octagon V2 75% Kustom Keyboard Group Buy (Closed for Orders)

[axm2]

Yeah I tried that one too, doesn't work.

edit: Tried it on 3 windows 10 pc's, and it just worked like a normal keyboard everytime

edit2: Pause/Break doesn't appear to work in the key tester, could that be an issue?

[yookwh]

Is this on a board you just made? Or did you buy it pre-built? If it's the latter, did it happen all of the sudden, or when you received it?

[axm2]

Is this on a board you just made? Or did you buy it pre-built? If it's the latter, did it happen all of the sudden, or when you received it?

Bought it from another user, I fixed it now though. One of the solder joints came loose during shipping. Should've been the first thing I checked honestly, oops.

[P1kas]

Has anyone weighed this board? I'd like to see how it compares to other top mount 75% cases.

[gaiden]

Has anyone weighed this board? I'd like to see how it compares to other top mount 75% cases.

5.5lb or ~2.5kg

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[yookwh]

Deleted

[Charizard]

Is there a PCB diagram for these boards anywhere?  My enter key isn't working and I'm trying to repair, but hard to see where some of the traces are going...

[-musubi]

Well who would've thought I'd screw up my most prized possession... thought I'd be cool and try to desolder a switch cause it made a slightly different pingy noise (barely noticeable) and got carried away at how I kept failing and eventually burnt some of the pads. Called it quits and soldered it back just to find out that my whole keyboard was rendered useless... anyone know if a single switch could do that?

Basically when I plug the board back in, the top right light stays lit and the caps/top right key LEDs stay active. No keys get registered when typing.

Would appreciate it if anyone could give some insight (switch is the "B" key, next to the D71 and R85). Thanks!

[hkf]

Well who would've thought I'd screw up my most prized possession... thought I'd be cool and try to desolder a switch cause it made a slightly different pingy noise (barely noticeable) and got carried away at how I kept failing and eventually burnt some of the pads. Called it quits and soldered it back just to find out that my whole keyboard was rendered useless... anyone know if a single switch could do that?

Basically when I plug the board back in, the top right light stays lit and the caps/top right key LEDs stay active. No keys get registered when typing.

Would appreciate it if anyone could give some insight (switch is the "B" key, next to the D71 and R85). Thanks!

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You will definitely need to jump some traces to get it fixed. I can see some broken traces near R85 just from the pics you provided. best ofluck

[-musubi]

Well who would've thought I'd screw up my most prized possession... thought I'd be cool and try to desolder a switch cause it made a slightly different pingy noise (barely noticeable) and got carried away at how I kept failing and eventually burnt some of the pads. Called it quits and soldered it back just to find out that my whole keyboard was rendered useless... anyone know if a single switch could do that?

Basically when I plug the board back in, the top right light stays lit and the caps/top right key LEDs stay active. No keys get registered when typing.

Would appreciate it if anyone could give some insight (switch is the "B" key, next to the D71 and R85). Thanks!

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You will definitely need to jump some traces to get it fixed. I can see some broken traces near R85 just from the pics you provided. best ofluck

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try that once I've given myself a bit of a break from my regret and frustration... do you think I should bother connecting up the led trace as well? I figured that one isn't as important since taking out the LED makes it open anyways. I thought the one above was for the resistors as well (also tied to the LEDs) but maybe it is important... definitely the top suspect for now though.

[merlin64]

Oh No!! I'm sorry to hear that musubi! This is actually one of the reasons why I still haven't built my kit. I'm looking into holtites since I can't seem to get a metal switch plate just perfect.

[hkf]

Well who would've thought I'd screw up my most prized possession... thought I'd be cool and try to desolder a switch cause it made a slightly different pingy noise (barely noticeable) and got carried away at how I kept failing and eventually burnt some of the pads. Called it quits and soldered it back just to find out that my whole keyboard was rendered useless... anyone know if a single switch could do that?

Basically when I plug the board back in, the top right light stays lit and the caps/top right key LEDs stay active. No keys get registered when typing.

Would appreciate it if anyone could give some insight (switch is the "B" key, next to the D71 and R85). Thanks!

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You will definitely need to jump some traces to get it fixed. I can see some broken traces near R85 just from the pics you provided. best ofluck

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try that once I've given myself a bit of a break from my regret and frustration... do you think I should bother connecting up the led trace as well? I figured that one isn't as important since taking out the LED makes it open anyways. I thought the one above was for the resistors as well (also tied to the LEDs) but maybe it is important... definitely the top suspect for now though.

I think it may not matter, it depends on how it flows.

It's probably something crossing and shorting causing a few keys to get sent / locking your board up, but other than that I can't be of much help other than suggesting which solder sucker to use (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=s9u_wsim_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B002MJMXD4&pd_rd_r=FRV550TVKXCNSAKYM4M1&pd_rd_w=2G3K8&pd_rd_wg=Jo9mm&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=JKNAM1N2SER3GNJKB5R3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2a4fafb6-9fdc-425a-aee8-c82daa7b18ed&pf_rd_i=desktop)

[-musubi]

Oh No!! I'm sorry to hear that musubi! This is actually one of the reasons why I still haven't built my kit. I'm looking into holtites since I can't seem to get a metal switch plate just perfect.

Haha don't make the same mistakes I made  it was actually working fine it was just me and my bad desoldering skills (this was my 2nd session/attempt at the same key so I didn't have much room to work with anyways so I probably should've left it alone after the first time).

Well who would've thought I'd screw up my most prized possession... thought I'd be cool and try to desolder a switch cause it made a slightly different pingy noise (barely noticeable) and got carried away at how I kept failing and eventually burnt some of the pads. Called it quits and soldered it back just to find out that my whole keyboard was rendered useless... anyone know if a single switch could do that?

Basically when I plug the board back in, the top right light stays lit and the caps/top right key LEDs stay active. No keys get registered when typing.

Would appreciate it if anyone could give some insight (switch is the "B" key, next to the D71 and R85). Thanks!

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You will definitely need to jump some traces to get it fixed. I can see some broken traces near R85 just from the pics you provided. best ofluck

Thanks for the suggestion, I will try that once I've given myself a bit of a break from my regret and frustration... do you think I should bother connecting up the led trace as well? I figured that one isn't as important since taking out the LED makes it open anyways. I thought the one above was for the resistors as well (also tied to the LEDs) but maybe it is important... definitely the top suspect for now though.

I think it may not matter, it depends on how it flows.

It's probably something crossing and shorting causing a few keys to get sent / locking your board up, but other than that I can't be of much help other than suggesting which solder sucker to use (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=s9u_wsim_gw_i1?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B002MJMXD4&pd_rd_r=FRV550TVKXCNSAKYM4M1&pd_rd_w=2G3K8&pd_rd_wg=Jo9mm&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=JKNAM1N2SER3GNJKB5R3&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2a4fafb6-9fdc-425a-aee8-c82daa7b18ed&pf_rd_i=desktop)

The funny thing is the first time I tried desoldering it I used a cheapo $5 one, and told myself I would buy one of these if I tried again. Ended up buying it and the 2nd time around I think the pads were already a bit too worn for at least an inexperienced desolderer like me and this happened... lol T___T Seriously though the LED pads are the hardest, still couldn't get out the switch in the end.

[zoomwalt]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

[dubious]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

what a shame :/

[theillumedpanda]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

It's really not that difficult and if you're not feeling confident enough, why don't practice your soldering skills on a cheaper pcb?

[zoomwalt]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

It's really not that difficult and if you're not feeling confident enough, why don't practice your soldering skills on a cheaper pcb?

A lot of it is I've been really busy. I'll probably attempt one later this year.

[gaiden]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

Oh man, I didn't know so many people are afraid they will mess up. I have put together about a dozen custom boards including Duck & TX boards, a couple Ergodox, fixed a few boards too. If anyone just need a board to put together I might be able to help. Thought I would throw this out there. I really want to see more assembled board pictures and not kits sitting in a box somewhere collecting dust.

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[theillumedpanda]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

Oh man, I didn't know so many people are afraid they will mess up. I have put together about a dozen custom boards including Duck & TX boards, a couple Ergodox, fixed a few boards too. If anyone just need a board to put together I might be able to help. Thought I would throw this out there. I really want to see more assembled board pictures and not kits sitting in a box somewhere collecting dust.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

This. Many people would love to have the chance to even own one Duck keyboard and others, who were luckier getting their hands on one have them lying around unbuilt. Bit of a shame I think about it.

I'm sure that zoomwalt can do it and he should ask as many question as necessary; there are a lot of people lurking who are more than willing to help! You can do this!

[hkf]

These stories are why I have 4 unbuilt duck kits sitting in my closet.

It's really not that difficult and if you're not feeling confident enough, why don't practice your soldering skills on a cheaper pcb?

this

soldering is a joke with a temp controlled station

[-musubi]

Good news everyone! Got my baby to work again with some jumpers (rip traces and pads). Guess the trace running parallel with all of the LEDs is an important power rail or something (would've expected it to be parallel with each LED row and not so critical), but good thing they have those debug holes for easy troubleshooting. Also the switch pad was dead as well but that was more obvious.

[theillumedpanda]

Glad to hear that it works! Would you mind showing a few more captures of the keyboard as a whole?

[-musubi]

Glad to hear that it works! Would you mind showing a few more captures of the keyboard as a whole?

Thanks! And sure, do you mean of just the pcb or of the actual board itself? It's not a new build or anything  )

[theillumedpanda]

Glad to hear that it works! Would you mind showing a few more captures of the keyboard as a whole?

Thanks! And sure, do you mean of just the pcb or of the actual board itself? It's not a new build or anything  )

The actual build itself. I don't think I've seen it before!

[hkf]

Good news everyone! Got my baby to work again with some jumpers (rip traces and pads). Guess the trace running parallel with all of the LEDs is an important power rail or something (would've expected it to be parallel with each LED row and not so critical), but good thing they have those debug holes for easy troubleshooting. Also the switch pad was dead as well but that was more obvious.

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Nice fix.

It's very odd that the power rail is not in series on the MCU. But that's on the designer...

[-musubi]

Good news everyone! Got my baby to work again with some jumpers (rip traces and pads). Guess the trace running parallel with all of the LEDs is an important power rail or something (would've expected it to be parallel with each LED row and not so critical), but good thing they have those debug holes for easy troubleshooting. Also the switch pad was dead as well but that was more obvious.

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Nice fix.

It's very odd that the power rail is not in series on the MCU. But that's on the designer...

Ye

Glad to hear that it works! Would you mind showing a few more captures of the keyboard as a whole?

Thanks! And sure, do you mean of just the pcb or of the actual board itself? It's not a new build or anything  :))

The actual build itself. I don't think I've seen it before! :)

Good news everyone! Got my baby to work again with some jumpers (rip traces and pads). Guess the trace running parallel with all of the LEDs is an important power rail or something (would've expected it to be parallel with each LED row and not so critical), but good thing they have those debug holes for easy troubleshooting. Also the switch pad was dead as well but that was more obvious.

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Nice fix.

It's very odd that the power rail is not in series on the MCU. But that's on the designer...

Yeah maybe it's just that rail that happens to share power with critical components since it's closer but who knows 

Glad to hear that it works! Would you mind showing a few more captures of the keyboard as a whole?

Thanks! And sure, do you mean of just the pcb or of the actual board itself? It's not a new build or anything  )

The actual build itself. I don't think I've seen it before!

Ahh okay, here's a few pics of it:

[P1kas]

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Is that Sky Dolch + Ocean Dolch?

[poolside]

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Is that Sky Dolch + Ocean Dolch?

Ocean Dolch has not shipped yet. The mods are from Hyperfuse.

[-musubi]

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Is that Sky Dolch + Ocean Dolch?

Ocean Dolch has not shipped yet. The mods are from Hyperfuse.

Yup that's correct, hyperfuse mods and sky dolch alphas. I believe ocean dolch would be the same color code though.

[merlin64]

With much encouragement, and finally getting some time. I would like to announce that I am finally building my Octagon V2 this coming Saturday, June 24th, 2017. 

[gaiden]

With much encouragement, and finally getting some time. I would like to announce that I am finally building my Octagon V2 this coming Saturday, June 24th, 2017. 

Will there be a live stream?😀

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[merlin64]

The Seattle crew is doing a build party on someone's roof top. I don't think I'll be live streaming it, but that is a good idea. Maybe when I build my Duck Eagle..sometime around 2018 or so

[merlin64]

For those of you curious....holtites (even the tin ones) fit super loosely on the Octagon V2. Looks like I'll be soldering them in.

[dubious]

The Seattle crew is doing a build party on someone's roof top. I don't think I'll be live streaming it, but that is a good idea. Maybe when I build my Duck Eagle..sometime around 2018 or so

when's this build party you speak of? 

[kawasaki161]

For those of you curious....holtites (even the tin ones) fit super loosely on the Octagon V2. Looks like I'll be soldering them in.

If the PCB is made to the same spec as the Blackbird one, don't add solder to the pads, they already come with a bit of solder on them, just get a soldering iron with a clean tip and press them in like that, works perfect.

[merlin64]

The Seattle crew is doing a build party on someone's roof top. I don't think I'll be live streaming it, but that is a good idea. Maybe when I build my Duck Eagle..sometime around 2018 or so

when's this build party you speak of? 

It's tomorrow at 4! Are you in Seattle?

[merlin64]

I got it working! Didn't have to use a soldering iron. Between the plate, and the PCB mount studs, everything is perfect. Guess what I'm typing on?

For those of you curious....holtites (even the tin ones) fit super loosely on the Octagon V2. Looks like I'll be soldering them in.

If the PCB is made to the same spec as the Blackbird one, don't add solder to the pads, they already come with a bit of solder on them, just get a soldering iron with a clean tip and press them in like that, works perfect.

[kawasaki161]

I got it working! Didn't have to use a soldering iron. Between the plate, and the PCB mount studs, everything is perfect. Guess what I'm typing on?

Korean alu goodness?

[merlin64]

Yah this is my first Kustom =). I've been using an eepw84 at work and before that a facew board. So this is very nice. It's my heaviest board so far.

Any of you know what those holes on the top right are for...and what the standard layout for this board is?

[kawasaki161]

The holes on the top right are for indicator LEDs. The first three are for Num, Caps and Scrollock, the others tell you which layer you are on.

[dubious]

The Seattle crew is doing a build party on someone's roof top. I don't think I'll be live streaming it, but that is a good idea. Maybe when I build my Duck Eagle..sometime around 2018 or so

when's this build party you speak of? 

It's tomorrow at 4! Are you in Seattle?

Nope, not till next weekend. Looking forward to pics and a video hopefully!

[giangpn]

hey buddies!   

So I'm super lucky that I just acquired an Octagon V2; however, I'm super curious about how the indicator LEDs (on the top right corner) works and what does it mean? I kinda see a few is Caps/Num/Scroll but what about the rest?     

Also, is there a way to program the Underglow LEDs to be static? I'm trying to have Cyan underglow but it keeps on throbbing haha.

Thanks!

[kawasaki161]

The other indicators show you which layer you are currently on.

To set the underglow to a static color you have to edit the colors in the keymap. Open your keymap, then select tools on the top, then select RGB color preset and then change all of them to the color you want.

[giangpn]

The other indicators show you which layer you are currently on.

To set the underglow to a static color you have to edit the colors in the keymap. Open your keymap, then select tools on the top, then select RGB color preset and then change all of them to the color you want.

thanks buddy! do you know what is the exact name for RGB Color Preset in the keymapper? I saw RGB Mode, RGB Sel - and RGB Sel + but no matter how much I switch the RGB Mode, I can't find a static one.

[kawasaki161]

Change to:


Then hit apply, then close, then save like you would save a keymap and then flash it 

[giangpn]

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Change to:

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Then hit apply, then close, then save like you would save a keymap and then flash it  :thumb:

oooooh my, I'm feeling super dumb right now lol. Thanks a lot buddy!

[gaiden]

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Change to:

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Then hit apply, then close, then save like you would save a keymap and then flash it  :thumb:

oooooh my, I'm feeling super dumb right now lol. Thanks a lot buddy!

Kind of wish this software would get a facelift to something more intuitive and user friendly similar to the bootmapper.

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[kawasaki161]

Show Image

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Change to:

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Then hit apply, then close, then save like you would save a keymap and then flash it  :thumb:

oooooh my, I'm feeling super dumb right now lol. Thanks a lot buddy!

Kind of wish this software would get a facelift to something more intuitive and user friendly similar to the bootmapper.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The placement of the side menus is pretty bad, but I think the keymapping itself is a lot better than Bootmapper Client because it actually shows you the layout of the board and not just a grid with keys that don't make sense unless you hit the button to see what it corresponds to.

[gaiden]

Show Image

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Change to:

Show Image

Then hit apply, then close, then save like you would save a keymap and then flash it  :thumb:

oooooh my, I'm feeling super dumb right now lol. Thanks a lot buddy!

Kind of wish this software would get a facelift to something more intuitive and user friendly similar to the bootmapper.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

The placement of the side menus is pretty bad, but I think the keymapping itself is a lot better than Bootmapper Client because it actually shows you the layout of the board and not just a grid with keys that don't make sense unless you hit the button to see what it corresponds to.

It's not all bad, but things like connecting to keymapping software and changing colors s super easy on other software. No holding the flip key and reconnect keyboard necessay. Again, only pointing it out because seen others like WKL and TAX boards work better in some aspects.

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[giangpn]

hmmm, is there any "official" guide for setting this board up properly on the software side? Sometimes mine acts a little funky (it rarely chatter a random switch) and sometimes a see a little delay.