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geekhack Community => Reviews => Topic started by: chyros on Sat, 30 September 2017, 03:08:00
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Today, as promised, we look at Kaihua's new white BOX switches! Hope you enjoy the video :) .
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This is probably the most interested I've been in an MX-style switch in quite a long time. I've got to agree, the sound is *leagues* better than that of clicky Cherry switches. My roommate has one of those Corsair boards with blues in them and I can't stand it when he's typing; it's like nails-on-chalkboard for me.
Do you know if there are any boards being made with this switch coming out, chyros? If I can't get a modern keyboard with proper SKCM Alps (and not Matias switches) then I'll settle for one of these as my daily driver - my vintage collection is too valuable to use. :-X
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I think Bella was putting down links of some keyboard that came with them - although she's spamming so many links it's hard to keep one from another xD .
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The sound on SA is delicious
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My gosh. I know what I want in my next board.
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Nice review! One question though:
Why is it better for the switch to actuate after clicking? I'd think it'd be better to have actuation occur before the click; that way, any time the click occurs, you know you can safely cease to apply additional force without any risk of missing the keystroke (because it has already occurred). On the other hand, if actuation occurs after clicking, then hearing the click does not guarantee that actuation has occurred, which decreases the usefulness of the clicker.
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Nice review! One question though:
Why is it better for the switch to actuate after clicking? I'd think it'd be better to have actuation occur before the click; that way, any time the click occurs, you know you can safely cease to apply additional force without any risk of missing the keystroke (because it has already occurred). On the other hand, if actuation occurs after clicking, then hearing the click does not guarantee that actuation has occurred, which decreases the usefulness of the clicker.
The extra resistance of the click and the slightly delayed actuation helps prevent accidental keypresses when typing.
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Nice review! One question though:
Why is it better for the switch to actuate after clicking? I'd think it'd be better to have actuation occur before the click; that way, any time the click occurs, you know you can safely cease to apply additional force without any risk of missing the keystroke (because it has already occurred). On the other hand, if actuation occurs after clicking, then hearing the click does not guarantee that actuation has occurred, which decreases the usefulness of the clicker.
Easier to get accidental keypresses as the EFFECTIVE actuation weight is lower, and it detracts of the whole point ogf the click as an actuation marker.
It's much harder to NOT actuate a switch AFTER a click than before it, as the tactile bump kind of forces you into it.
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I rebuilt my friend's Phantom with white box switches and I was really impressed, they really dont feel like anything else out there.
I'm hoping i can get them for cheap sometime again; was going to build a board with them to my collection.
I have a whole bunch of BOX Browns as well to try out on a board. I bet the BOX blacks are pretty tight also. I am tired of modding switches, I love the variety out there these days.
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I read a rumor while lurking on r/mk. It seems some batches of Kailh switches are coming unlubed now. No one knows if it was a mistake or if they are trying to cut costs.
Would be pretty helpful for a Kailh rep to address this.
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Just finished building my DZ60 with these a couple of days ago, and I love them. The feel and sound is fantastic, and it truly is different from other clicky switches. I do think maybe they are a bit light for my hands, and the pale blue BOX switches might be my choice next time.
Note when using LEDs with these. . . I used 2x3x4mm white LEDs, and they have to fit inside the switch housing. They have to be kept snug against the PCB, because if they protrude too far into the housing they will interfere with the clicker mechanism. A few times I had to adjust an already soldered LED: melt the solder, tug on the already-clipped leads with micro-tweezers, then clip them again. That was a nuisance, but I got them all straightened out and working as they should.
Also, I want to build one with the "burnt orange" tactile switches, without the clicker. I have a sample here, and the action feels good to me.
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I read a rumor while lurking on r/mk. It seems some batches of Kailh switches are coming unlubed now. No one knows if it was a mistake or if they are trying to cut costs.
Would be pretty helpful for a Kailh rep to address this.
That better not be the case :( I did want to build a board with these as soon as i can get my hands on a fairly priced batch.
I will admit they are cheap construction, if you take them apart they sometimes fall apart like other Kailh switches, though there is really no reason to do that so i still recommend them.
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I read a rumor while lurking on r/mk. It seems some batches of Kailh switches are coming unlubed now. No one knows if it was a mistake or if they are trying to cut costs.
Would be pretty helpful for a Kailh rep to address this.
That better not be the case :( I did want to build a board with these as soon as i can get my hands on a fairly priced batch.
I will admit they are cheap construction, if you take them apart they sometimes fall apart like other Kailh switches, though there is really no reason to do that so i still recommend them.
Yeah the cheapness shines through. The actuation seems sort of all over the place too on the linears and I've heard reports of chattering.