snip
snip
I guess that's a pretty good way to organize things.
For those who require MX mount stabilizers for their ALPS keycaps how should one specify that and how would it be implemented?
snip
I guess that's a pretty good way to organize things.
For those who require MX mount stabilizers for their ALPS keycaps how should one specify that and how would it be implemented?
That's a really special case I think.
That is really order-made thing isn't it?
With alps plate, almost everything (position and stabilizers) will be described very well.
So, as you said, application form? really hard and it will cause confusion, (it will)
I'm just thinking about mail or bbs thing. it might better.
snip
I guess that's a pretty good way to organize things.
For those who require MX mount stabilizers for their ALPS keycaps how should one specify that and how would it be implemented?
That's a really special case I think.
That is really order-made thing isn't it?
With alps plate, almost everything (position and stabilizers) will be described very well.
So, as you said, application form? really hard and it will cause confusion, (it will)
I'm just thinking about mail or bbs thing. it might better.
Now the easiest visual representation is with the use of a plate generator made by swill (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0) which uses the layout editor you linked to generate files.
See? I generated a plate for an ALPS numpad with Cherry stabilizers!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TQ0oSms.png)
Of course you would need to redraw an entirely new plate that fits in the VE.A but there is no confusion this way.
Still hoping for a leftover pcb..
Why no black keycaps? The review on youtube even complains about the 'grey' -more like cream- color offered in the drop.
Why no black keycaps? The review on youtube even complains about the 'grey' -more like cream- color offered in the drop.
not in any rush, but still hoping to get CAD files for the plates. i would like to make an anodized aluminum set for mine
VE.A pixel art, since krisst wouldn't share his. :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/onMOFMQ.png)
VE.A pixel art, since krisst wouldn't share his. :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/onMOFMQ.png)
[...] Meantime, would like to know what everyone have ordered, and reasons if any.
[...] Meantime, would like to know what everyone have ordered, and reasons if any.
I went with black on black with Cherry browns. I'm looking for matte black front-etched caps, but haven't found those yet. May end up going blank, but have aabout 11 yearscouple months figure that out. I'm going to install white LEDs. Obviously, the idea here is low-profile monochrome.
Oh? A another fellow singaporean? I got blacks with stabs myself, zealios ready, and clear stabs from taobao as well. Can't have too many stabs. I wonder if we have to go down singpost to pay tax for this. Massdrop ten day shipping is already killing me. Also, I canceled my whitefox : x
I went with black on black with Cherry browns. I'm looking for matte black front-etched caps, but haven't found those yet. May end up going blank, but have aabout 11 yearscouple months figure that out. I'm going to install white LEDs. Obviously, the idea here is low-profile monochrome.
Have you checked out Geekkeys? I have a set from them Geekkeys Dark grey Dyesub Thick PBT (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-dark-grey-dyesub-thick-pbt-full-keyset/). Side print set is here (http://www.geekkeys.com/geekkeys-black-side-printed-thick-pbt-full-keyset/). Quality is good. Been using the set for 4-5 months until a few weeks ago, currently on Granite set.
This dark grey set will fit VE.A, just have to reuse right shift as right spacebar, and numpad 0 as left spacebar.
Just posting here in case anyone who wants to sell their spot sees this!
Please let me know if you would like to sell your purchase of VE.A. I would like to get in on it, but missed the deadline.
Thanks!
hoping to get a spare pcb along with my order. contacted massdrop the day it ended, but havent heard back yet... :/
hoping to get a spare pcb along with my order. contacted massdrop the day it ended, but havent heard back yet... :/
Well the buy all has to go through Zefyr anyway who has already given his statements on such matters.
I doubt MD will be in control of that.
Still hoping for a leftover pcb..
Wanted to buy a extra pcb and plate for myself, but ran out of money buying the whole kit, lol.
hoping to get a spare pcb along with my order. contacted massdrop the day it ended, but havent heard back yet... :/
Well the buy all has to go through Zefyr anyway who has already given his statements on such matters.
I doubt MD will be in control of that.
MD gather orders and money for VE.A and we just produce :)
We don't have any control of order process.
You should check MD for that.
Still hoping for a leftover pcb..
Wanted to buy a extra pcb and plate for myself, but ran out of money buying the whole kit, lol.
i have to back out during the last minutes of the groupbuy because of other urgent reasons.
i wish i can buy the pcb only...hoping to get a spare pcb along with my order. contacted massdrop the day it ended, but havent heard back yet... :/
Well the buy all has to go through Zefyr anyway who has already given his statements on such matters.
I doubt MD will be in control of that.
MD gather orders and money for VE.A and we just produce :)
We don't have any control of order process.
You should check MD for that.
well, you could produce another 1 or 2 and send one of them to me :p
...
i really should contact massdrop instead huh?
Still hoping for a leftover pcb..
Wanted to buy a extra pcb and plate for myself, but ran out of money buying the whole kit, lol.
i have to back out during the last minutes of the groupbuy because of other urgent reasons.
i wish i can buy the pcb only...hoping to get a spare pcb along with my order. contacted massdrop the day it ended, but havent heard back yet... :/
Well the buy all has to go through Zefyr anyway who has already given his statements on such matters.
I doubt MD will be in control of that.
MD gather orders and money for VE.A and we just produce :)
We don't have any control of order process.
You should check MD for that.
well, you could produce another 1 or 2 and send one of them to me :p
...
i really should contact massdrop instead huh?
i did contact massdrop, and got the usual "we already sent the order, sorry you're SOL" of course, it took them 4 days to return my message, and they might have been able to add it on to the order if they got back to me in time. anyway, it still doesnt seem like this would be impossible. zephyr, do you have any advice on this? are we just too late?
i am hoping to get an aluminum plate cut, and use the second set of pcbs with the aluminum plate
I'm starting to collect parts in antici- (Say it!) -pation.
For the cap LEDs, in the other thread, Zefyr said 910-ohm resistors were going to be needed. That was for red LEDs. I haven't decided if I'm going with RGB or plain white. Will these work?
https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/RES1429/910+ohm+1%26%2337%3B+1206+Surface+Mount+Resistor.html
Thanks in advance for the clue-provisioning.
I'm starting to collect parts in antici- (Say it!) -pation.
For the cap LEDs, in the other thread, Zefyr said 910-ohm resistors were going to be needed. That was for red LEDs. I haven't decided if I'm going with RGB or plain white. Will these work?
https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/RES1429/910+ohm+1%26%2337%3B+1206+Surface+Mount+Resistor.html
Thanks in advance for the clue-provisioning.
I'm starting to collect parts in antici- (Say it!) -pation.
For the cap LEDs, in the other thread, Zefyr said 910-ohm resistors were going to be needed. That was for red LEDs. I haven't decided if I'm going with RGB or plain white. Will these work?
https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/RES1429/910+ohm+1%26%2337%3B+1206+Surface+Mount+Resistor.html
Thanks in advance for the clue-provisioning.
It's not "needed", I suggest 910 will works fine with most of LEDs.
We are checking several options for that.
I'm starting to collect parts in antici- (Say it!) -pation.
For the cap LEDs, in the other thread, Zefyr said 910-ohm resistors were going to be needed. That was for red LEDs. I haven't decided if I'm going with RGB or plain white. Will these work?
https://www.westfloridacomponents.com/RES1429/910+ohm+1%26%2337%3B+1206+Surface+Mount+Resistor.html
Thanks in advance for the clue-provisioning.
It's not "needed", I suggest 910 will works fine with most of LEDs.
We are checking several options for that.
Is it possible to put RGB LEDs under the switches?
I thought we were limited to a single color there?
Someone must have been confused.
I'm in the same boat wanting alps keys with MX stabilzers too :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Someone must have been confused.
That would be me. Nothing new there; confusion is my way of life.
Please continue carrying on.
Someone must have been confused.
That would be me. Nothing new there; confusion is my way of life.
Please continue carrying on.
XD I would suggest that you use sip-sockets for the in-switch LEDs, so that you can change them out to other colours when you want to.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.
Not sure why you would mod the PCB for this. The board is fully programmable so you would just set one of the two switches to [null] and the other to [space]. The problems would come in modding your 4u cap to fit across both switches (and stabilizers, if you choose) and then getting used to the strange feeling. I've never used a key that spanned 2 switches but at least one person (in the other thread) has said it does work. Without the stabilizer wire it's impossible for both switches to actuate precisely at the same time, so the key would likely feel a little wobbly depending on where and how you're hitting it. Personally, it sounds like not a very good idea.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.
Not sure why you would mod the PCB for this. The board is fully programmable so you would just set one of the two switches to [null] and the other to [space]. The problems would come in modding your 4u cap to fit across both switches (and stabilizers, if you choose) and then getting used to the strange feeling. I've never used a key that spanned 2 switches but at least one person (in the other thread) has said it does work. Without the stabilizer wire it's impossible for both switches to actuate precisely at the same time, so the key would likely feel a little wobbly depending on where and how you're hitting it. Personally, it sounds like not a very good idea.
I took a look at a picture of the board - there aren't any additional holes in the PCB to support those key sizes.
Either it's the double key thing - not wild about it either - or drilling your own hole for the 4u key and jumping the traces. If this were a $40 GH60 - sure, but a $500 Korean custom?
It's getting hold of 2.5u, 3u and 4u keys which is the real issue and I expect the driving reason for the bottom row layout.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.MoreNot sure why you would mod the PCB for this. The board is fully programmable so you would just set one of the two switches to [null] and the other to [space]. The problems would come in modding your 4u cap to fit across both switches (and stabilizers, if you choose) and then getting used to the strange feeling. I've never used a key that spanned 2 switches but at least one person (in the other thread) has said it does work. Without the stabilizer wire it's impossible for both switches to actuate precisely at the same time, so the key would likely feel a little wobbly depending on where and how you're hitting it. Personally, it sounds like not a very good idea.MoreI took a look at a picture of the board - there aren't any additional holes in the PCB to support those key sizes.
Either it's the double key thing - not wild about it either - or drilling your own hole for the 4u key and jumping the traces. If this were a $40 GH60 - sure, but a $500 Korean custom?
It's getting hold of 2.5u, 3u and 4u keys which is the real issue and I expect the driving reason for the bottom row layout.
OK, guys.
This is custom keyboard kit.
Which means, do what you want to do on this kit is just on you.
As a designer of VE.A, I do not suggest modify PCB in that way, even if you succeeded modify PCB, you havo to modify(or produce) plate also.
But as a custom enthusiast? HELL YES, PLEASE DO THAT! That sound awesome!
And this is just a question, is there such bottom key(3x you say?) on market?
VE.A's layout is designed for standard ANSI layout keysets coverage.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.
Not sure why you would mod the PCB for this. The board is fully programmable so you would just set one of the two switches to [null] and the other to [space]. The problems would come in modding your 4u cap to fit across both switches (and stabilizers, if you choose) and then getting used to the strange feeling. I've never used a key that spanned 2 switches but at least one person (in the other thread) has said it does work. Without the stabilizer wire it's impossible for both switches to actuate precisely at the same time, so the key would likely feel a little wobbly depending on where and how you're hitting it. Personally, it sounds like not a very good idea.
I took a look at a picture of the board - there aren't any additional holes in the PCB to support those key sizes.
Either it's the double key thing - not wild about it either - or drilling your own hole for the 4u key and jumping the traces. If this were a $40 GH60 - sure, but a $500 Korean custom?
It's getting hold of 2.5u, 3u and 4u keys which is the real issue and I expect the driving reason for the bottom row layout.
This might be a really dumb question, but with a custom plate, would it be possible to mod the PCB (by jumping traces etc.) to combine the 2.75x space bar and a 1.25x modifier to accommodate a 4x SA spacebar? Same with the 2x space and 1x FN key to have a 3x spacebar.
Not sure why you would mod the PCB for this. The board is fully programmable so you would just set one of the two switches to [null] and the other to [space]. The problems would come in modding your 4u cap to fit across both switches (and stabilizers, if you choose) and then getting used to the strange feeling. I've never used a key that spanned 2 switches but at least one person (in the other thread) has said it does work. Without the stabilizer wire it's impossible for both switches to actuate precisely at the same time, so the key would likely feel a little wobbly depending on where and how you're hitting it. Personally, it sounds like not a very good idea.
I took a look at a picture of the board - there aren't any additional holes in the PCB to support those key sizes.
Either it's the double key thing - not wild about it either - or drilling your own hole for the 4u key and jumping the traces. If this were a $40 GH60 - sure, but a $500 Korean custom?
It's getting hold of 2.5u, 3u and 4u keys which is the real issue and I expect the driving reason for the bottom row layout.
I think of all the parts in this keyboard the PCB is the very last one you'd want to mod. But what you described should technically be possible, if also incredibly risky. It's a novel idea anyway.
Sorry to post here, but I thought I'd at least try. I got in on the drop, but due to credit card number theft, the purchase was declined. So I missed out on the drop and Massdrop couldn't accommodate adding me back. So, might there be any way to get one of these keyboards? Any extras being built for "just in case"?
Thanks,
Rob
Yup, there's a fine line between brave and stupid.
Yup, there's a fine line between brave and stupid.
It's like my motto.
"I'm brave cause I'm stupid."
Under that motto,
I was stupid that I built a hand wired keyboard. (... was fun, but NO MORE)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/L3AUPU1.jpg)
So, I learned how to draw PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SmESTQx.jpg)
I learned how to draw acrylic case.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jk8RRIs.jpg)
I learned how to draw aluminium case.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5gxyoDe.jpg)
That's a truly inspiring sequence of photos. Thanks for sharing that.
In other, tenuously related news, does anyone know of a custom SATA cable maker? I may have missed it, but didn't see any in the artisan section, and Google was less than helpful.
Yup, there's a fine line between brave and stupid.
It's like my motto.
"I'm brave cause I'm stupid."
Under that motto,
I was stupid that I built a hand wired keyboard. (... was fun, but NO MORE)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/L3AUPU1.jpg)
So, I learned how to draw PCB.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SmESTQx.jpg)
I learned how to draw acrylic case.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jk8RRIs.jpg)
I learned how to draw aluminium case.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5gxyoDe.jpg)
That was a really informative set of pics - thank you.
I'm really impressed with how you prototyped the first one in the series - I need to learn how to do that.
On a similar note, what's your preferred protocol for connecting the two halves? SPI?
That's a truly inspiring sequence of photos. Thanks for sharing that.
In other, tenuously related news, does anyone know of a custom SATA cable maker? I may have missed it, but didn't see any in the artisan section, and Google was less than helpful.
Ordered and received one SATA 3.0 cable from aliexpress, cost 4 bucks with shipping. 18 inches. Purple sleeved with black and gold connector. Sadly, I just checked, the product is no longer available.
Link to the product page http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Purple-Sleeved-18-inch-Premium-6Gb-s-SATA3-DATA-cable-w-Gold-Plated-latch-Locking-for/32667583249.htmlShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/AHGWzXJ.jpg)
Announcement from oddforge
All in-switch LED's resistors will be pre-soldered with 910ohm.
Announcement from oddforge
All in-switch LED's resistors will be pre-soldered with 910ohm.
Announcement from oddforge
All in-switch LED's resistors will be pre-soldered with 910ohm.
Seems high. That would bring white LEDs down to around 2mA current and red LEDs down to around 3.5mA. That's only 10-18% of the LED's rated output. I hope that's bright enough to even bother. :-X
Hi Vermillion!
I had a couple questions I couldn't find information on. I haven't seen any pictures of the underside of the keyboard, and was curious what it looked like. But I really wanted to know if this keyboard supports additional screw-on feet? (specifically the ones avail on massdrop) I've only seen pictures of the keyboard laying flat (without the tent)
Massdrop link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
Also is a SATA 3 cable required to join the two halves? I'm assuming SATA 2 is fine since there is no mention of 3.
Thanks! excited to see this board in the mail :D
Hi Vermillion!
I had a couple questions I couldn't find information on. I haven't seen any pictures of the underside of the keyboard, and was curious what it looked like. But I really wanted to know if this keyboard supports additional screw-on feet? (specifically the ones avail on massdrop) I've only seen pictures of the keyboard laying flat (without the tent)
Massdrop link: https://www.massdrop.com/buy/anodized-cnc-aluminum-cone-feet
Also is a SATA 3 cable required to join the two halves? I'm assuming SATA 2 is fine since there is no mention of 3.
Thanks! excited to see this board in the mail :D
There is no hole for screw under bottom side. If you want to attach it, you have to use double-sided tape or glue, (or drill)
And any SATA cable will works.
Announcement from oddforge
As Massdrop announcement today, VE.A's schedule is delayed.
We found noticible scratches at final quality check.
This is very painful but we decided to go for re-production.
It will take another month. So shipping will be delayed for a while.
We will update process more often from now.
You can see detailes at massdrop.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ve-a/talk/474880
We have no words to make this better, instead say something we will work harder.
Announcement from oddforgepossible to buy scratched units as b-stock?
As Massdrop announcement today, VE.A's schedule is delayed.
We found noticible scratches at final quality check.
This is very painful but we decided to go for re-production.
It will take another month. So shipping will be delayed for a while.
We will update process more often from now.
You can see detailes at massdrop.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ve-a/talk/474880
We have no words to make this better, instead say something we will work harder.
Announcement from oddforge
As Massdrop announcement today, VE.A's schedule is delayed.
We found noticible scratches at final quality check.
This is very painful but we decided to go for re-production.
It will take another month. So shipping will be delayed for a while.
We will update process more often from now.
You can see detailes at massdrop.
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/ve-a/talk/474880
We have no words to make this better, instead say something we will work harder.
possible to buy scratched units as b-stock?
possible to buy scratched units as b-stock?
Would like to know this as well :thumb:
possible to buy scratched units as b-stock?
We found noticible scratches at final quality check.
This is very painful but we decided to go for re-production.
Since the drop is being delayed is it possible to add more orders?
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
possible to buy scratched units as b-stock?
Would like to know this as well :thumb:
Me three.
I ordered silver with the intent of re-anodizing, so definitely interested.
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
those 2 are for scroll lock and numlock indicators. If you connect the F and middle, it will be a full LED on that in switch LED (acts like any other switch LED). If you connect the L and the middle, it will be a lock LED for that one (ie, numlock and scroll lock indicators).
But I don't know why those keys has this functionality, when there are indicator LEDs already on the pcb as circled in red:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I7X51TG.png)
Maybe you can use the 3 Lock LEDs I indicated as FN layer indicators instead, and use those 2 as Num/Scr Lock... but I didn't do that with my build :)
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
those 2 are for scroll lock and numlock indicators. If you connect the F and middle, it will be a full LED on that in switch LED (acts like any other switch LED). If you connect the L and the middle, it will be a lock LED for that one (ie, numlock and scroll lock indicators).
But I don't know why those keys has this functionality, when there are indicator LEDs already on the pcb as circled in red:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I7X51TG.png)
Maybe you can use the 3 Lock LEDs I indicated as FN layer indicators instead, and use those 2 as Num/Scr Lock... but I didn't do that with my build :)
Ahhhh, ok. That makes sense. Thank you for the answer. Maybe ZeFyr will have the time to explain why those are there since the PCB already has indicator LEDs......
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
those 2 are for scroll lock and numlock indicators. If you connect the F and middle, it will be a full LED on that in switch LED (acts like any other switch LED). If you connect the L and the middle, it will be a lock LED for that one (ie, numlock and scroll lock indicators).
But I don't know why those keys has this functionality, when there are indicator LEDs already on the pcb as circled in red:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I7X51TG.png)
Maybe you can use the 3 Lock LEDs I indicated as FN layer indicators instead, and use those 2 as Num/Scr Lock... but I didn't do that with my build :)
Ahhhh, ok. That makes sense. Thank you for the answer. Maybe ZeFyr will have the time to explain why those are there since the PCB already has indicator LEDs......
Not a fancy reason :)
It's for custom case builders option. But I didn't published reference case design, there's no custom(custom over custom haha) case yet.
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
those 2 are for scroll lock and numlock indicators. If you connect the F and middle, it will be a full LED on that in switch LED (acts like any other switch LED). If you connect the L and the middle, it will be a lock LED for that one (ie, numlock and scroll lock indicators).
But I don't know why those keys has this functionality, when there are indicator LEDs already on the pcb as circled in red:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I7X51TG.png)
Maybe you can use the 3 Lock LEDs I indicated as FN layer indicators instead, and use those 2 as Num/Scr Lock... but I didn't do that with my build :)
Ahhhh, ok. That makes sense. Thank you for the answer. Maybe ZeFyr will have the time to explain why those are there since the PCB already has indicator LEDs......
Not a fancy reason :)
It's for custom case builders option. But I didn't published reference case design, there's no custom(custom over custom haha) case yet.
Ahh, ok. So they don't have to be used then? Like the Massdrop kit wouldn't need those messed with?
Quick question.
I was just looking over the VE.A build guide posted on Oddforge and was fine until I got to "C. In-Switch LED Assembly" step 3. I have never dealt with selecting the Lock LED mode, haven't even heard of it. Can anyone explain what it is and what the proper way to set it up is? I will have in switch LEDs and the switches will be SIP socketed so I can change the LEDs when the mood strikes.
Would the Full-LED mode be all in-switch LEDs lit at all times? If so what is Lock-LED mode?
In case someone doesn't understand my question or needs more info the VE.A assembly guide is here (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly) and the part I am having trouble grasping is part C, step 3.
those 2 are for scroll lock and numlock indicators. If you connect the F and middle, it will be a full LED on that in switch LED (acts like any other switch LED). If you connect the L and the middle, it will be a lock LED for that one (ie, numlock and scroll lock indicators).
But I don't know why those keys has this functionality, when there are indicator LEDs already on the pcb as circled in red:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I7X51TG.png)
Maybe you can use the 3 Lock LEDs I indicated as FN layer indicators instead, and use those 2 as Num/Scr Lock... but I didn't do that with my build :)
Ahhhh, ok. That makes sense. Thank you for the answer. Maybe ZeFyr will have the time to explain why those are there since the PCB already has indicator LEDs......
Not a fancy reason :)
It's for custom case builders option. But I didn't published reference case design, there's no custom(custom over custom haha) case yet.
Ahh, ok. So they don't have to be used then? Like the Massdrop kit wouldn't need those messed with?
You probably want to set it with F.
So if the PCB already has indicator lights, do we need to do solder in the Lock LEDs at all? http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly Step B2 here.
any update on this yet?
If you use the individual lock indicator LEDs in the upper left corner of the board then you do NOT need to jumper for "lock-type" on the in-switch LEDs unless you want both for some strange reason.
In-switch LOCK behavior has the LED normally off and it only turns on when the indicated lock type is engaged. So for Caps Lock the LED sits off until you engage Caps Lock, at which time the LED turns on -- this is how any normal in-switch lock indicator works. Why would someone want this? Mainly if they have WINDOWED key caps for the lock keys.
any update on this yet?
Which "this"? If you mean delivery, there was a notification email from MD on 2016.07.21 indicating that some plates were scratched and being redone, so there would be a delay.
We got final sample few days ago.
Quality check passed, we are producing batches and expecting 2 weeks for check and packaging :)
Thanks for long waiting.
We got final sample few days ago.
Quality check passed, we are producing batches and expecting 2 weeks for check and packaging :)
Thanks for long waiting.
any update on this yet?
Which "this"? If you mean delivery, there was a notification email from MD on 2016.07.21 indicating that some plates were scratched and being redone, so there would be a delay.
We got final sample few days ago.
Quality check passed, we are producing batches and expecting 2 weeks for check and packaging :)
Thanks for long waiting.
We got final sample few days ago.
Quality check passed, we are producing batches and expecting 2 weeks for check and packaging :)
Thanks for long waiting.
Thank you for the update! Do post more pictures of progress if possible. :D
since I have two I might want an alps plate too but maybe not. alps are just ok ^_^
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All set, Finally.
What is the next GB going to be :p
All set, Finally.
What is the next GB going to be :p
WOW, you just saying that.
You know? After one GB ends, we always thinks
"Never again"
It's like hangover. man.
All set, Finally.
Announcement from oddforge
Howdy Geeks.
We shipped out all of your orders.
It's heading for Massdrop warehouse NJ.
Thanks for your support everyone.
ZeF out, I mean it.
I need some rest.
Oh, one another matter.
We got tens of leftovers.
Some of you are asking when, how to get, etc. It's not hard to reply but I don't want to reply same answer repeatedly.
Here's deal.
It will be sold on our website after Massdrop's individual shipping ends.
It's for aftercare, so we have to keep it for certain period.
You can ask reservation to me, but it's really limited, so I cannot guarantee your reservation.
We don't have any energy left to reproduce another batch.
EXHAUSTED literally, We gotta kill some demons at "Sanctuary".
Feel free to ask anything except reservation of leftovers. :)
Announcement from oddforge
Howdy Geeks.
We shipped out all of your orders.
It's heading for Massdrop warehouse NJ.
Thanks for your support everyone.
ZeF out, I mean it.
I need some rest.
Oh, one another matter.
We got tens of leftovers.
Some of you are asking when, how to get, etc. It's not hard to reply but I don't want to reply same answer repeatedly.
Here's deal.
It will be sold on our website after Massdrop's individual shipping ends.
It's for aftercare, so we have to keep it for certain period.
You can ask reservation to me, but it's really limited, so I cannot guarantee your reservation.
We don't have any energy left to reproduce another batch.
EXHAUSTED literally, We gotta kill some demons at "Sanctuary".
Feel free to ask anything except reservation of leftovers. :)
Announcement from oddforge
Howdy Geeks.
We shipped out all of your orders.
It's heading for Massdrop warehouse NJ.
Thanks for your support everyone.
ZeF out, I mean it.
I need some rest.
Oh, one another matter.
We got tens of leftovers.
Some of you are asking when, how to get, etc. It's not hard to reply but I don't want to reply same answer repeatedly.
Here's deal.
It will be sold on our website after Massdrop's individual shipping ends.
It's for aftercare, so we have to keep it for certain period.
You can ask reservation to me, but it's really limited, so I cannot guarantee your reservation.
We don't have any energy left to reproduce another batch.
EXHAUSTED literally, We gotta kill some demons at "Sanctuary".
Feel free to ask anything except reservation of leftovers. :)
Congratulations on completing the orders! Just wondering if you have any info on the ALPS plate?
Announcement from oddforgeSo close to closure... Happy to see it over on your side :))
Howdy Geeks.
We shipped out all of your orders.
It's heading for Massdrop warehouse NJ.
Thanks for your support everyone.
ZeF out, I mean it.
I need some rest.
Oh, one another matter.
We got tens of leftovers.
Some of you are asking when, how to get, etc. It's not hard to reply but I don't want to reply same answer repeatedly.
Here's deal.
It will be sold on our website after Massdrop's individual shipping ends.
It's for aftercare, so we have to keep it for certain period.
You can ask reservation to me, but it's really limited, so I cannot guarantee your reservation.
We don't have any energy left to reproduce another batch.
EXHAUSTED literally, We gotta kill some demons at "Sanctuary".
Feel free to ask anything except reservation of leftovers. :)
If anyone ever wants to sell for RRP - you know where I am.
If they only knew there are a list of buyers who missed the drop.
Ah, I need to explain a little more.
First, there's NO B-stock.
All B-stock will be returned to factory, and reproduced as new one.
So, it's all brand new.
I got several (more than you might think) PMs after last minute announcement.
So, yes you can ask stand in line, but as always, no guarantee. it's already full.
And, we will not post the reservation list anywhere.
Some of you got my mail or PM that says "you are in", for those.
Please, DO NOT POST ANYTHING ABOUT YOU ARE IN. That might make others thinks to PM me faster can make it in.
We really are exhausted, please. please give us at lease couple of weeks to rest.
We will announce for selling leftovers when it's ready.
I promise!
Earlier than expected!
Lol.
DHL finally updated tracking info for the parcel.
ETA is the 21st, so I'm assuming it's being delivered by stage coach.
My ETA is the 20th as well. Is the build guide on the Massdrop page the most up to date? Thinking about trying to make this hot-swappable switches.just get some other boards to try for a while to decide on weights and such. Hotswap modding is $$$
Are installing those sockets the only mod you're making? Seems way too easy.
Are installing those sockets the only mod you're making? Seems way too easy.
I hope so lol. It's more tedious than it is complex. Though they weren't designed specifically for mechanical switches, they were designed for solderless connections, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. Hope E3E can chime in when he sees this.
What is shipping ETA?
Looking to be November at this point, due to the long Chinese holiday in October.
Looks like I won't be able to build mine until November since I'm waiting on some Zeal parts :(What is shipping ETA?Looking to be November at this point, due to the long Chinese holiday in October.
Looks like I won't be able to build mine until November since I'm waiting on some Zeal parts :(
Yup. Same for me too. Ordered some stabs. Hopefully VE.A package will arrive safely and everything is perfect, PCB is working, etc. Would be good to make sure to test the PCB, check the casing even if you are not building it yet. I think by Nov, any spare VE.A from zefyr might be put up for sale for any interested buyers, not confirm, just my thought.
Looks like I won't be able to build mine until November since I'm waiting on some Zeal parts :(
Yup. Same for me too. Ordered some stabs. Hopefully VE.A package will arrive safely and everything is perfect, PCB is working, etc. Would be good to make sure to test the PCB, check the casing even if you are not building it yet. I think by Nov, any spare VE.A from zefyr might be put up for sale for any interested buyers, not confirm, just my thought.
That is a good point, I'll be sure to do that.
is there any news about plate/case dxf files? i'm interested in building my own split60 and wanted to see how others are doing it for the cases and plates.
and btw, if the solderless connection works, i want to see how to do it too!!
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
We checked LEDs twice, while testing LED and before packaging.
But this can happen because RGB LED is very fragile part.
If flickering happens again, try re-soldering it.
I'll think about what I can do about it also.
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
We checked LEDs twice, while testing LED and before packaging.
But this can happen because RGB LED is very fragile part.
If flickering happens again, try re-soldering it.
I'll think about what I can do about it also.
no worries Zefyr, you did so much for this drop already :thumb:
I could probably just resolder if it is problematic, worst case I could probably replace the LED (assuming it's just a part I can buy on the internet)
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Just got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
The new transparent stabsJust got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
Are you talking about the Authentic Cherry PCB & Plate Mount Stabilizers zeal has?
The new transparent stabsJust got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
Are you talking about the Authentic Cherry PCB & Plate Mount Stabilizers zeal has?
The new transparent stabsJust got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
Are you talking about the Authentic Cherry PCB & Plate Mount Stabilizers zeal has?
Ohhhhhh. Those are the screw in pcb ones right? I was thinking of ordering those myself, but I didnt know if they would be able to used with the VE:A plate/pcb.
The new transparent stabsJust got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
Are you talking about the Authentic Cherry PCB & Plate Mount Stabilizers zeal has?
Ohhhhhh. Those are the screw in pcb ones right? I was thinking of ordering those myself, but I didnt know if they would be able to used with the VE:A plate/pcb.
Yea, worse case if it didn't work, I'd have just waited a long time :))
Thanks :thumb:, looking forward to November :))The new transparent stabsJust got mines today, everything seems ok, except one of the LEDs (bottom row, 4th one in the pic) occasionally flickers, but seems to go away after being plugged in for awhile.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/93l1UGU.jpg)
Now to wait to November for my Zeal parts.
Just wondering, what Zeal parts did you order? Was considering ordering r4's, and wanted different stabilizers, but ordered everything together with the drop just so I wouldnt have to wait for parts, lol
Stabs and silencing clips, technically I could put it together now with normal stabs, but I don't want to do double work, cause I'm lazy.
Are you talking about the Authentic Cherry PCB & Plate Mount Stabilizers zeal has?
Ohhhhhh. Those are the screw in pcb ones right? I was thinking of ordering those myself, but I didnt know if they would be able to used with the VE:A plate/pcb.
Yea, worse case if it didn't work, I'd have just waited a long time :))
I hope they work out for you! If they do, I would need to order a set for myself lol
Mine says it was delivered to my front door...and is not there...looks like I'm filing a claim in the morning...ffs...
Mine says it was delivered to my front door...and is not there...looks like I'm filing a claim in the morning...ffs...
That really sucks. Luckily I signed up for text alerts for when mine arrived today, because they didnt knock or ring the doorbell. Just snuck up and left it in front of the door
Mine says it was delivered to my front door...and is not there...looks like I'm filing a claim in the morning...ffs...
That really sucks. Luckily I signed up for text alerts for when mine arrived today, because they didnt knock or ring the doorbell. Just snuck up and left it in front of the door
Yeah, I'm praying that my leasing office has it, or else I'm going to get to deal trying to pry $600 from the post office
So dumb question. Just got my kit, everything seems to work fine when testing the pcb, which is great. Was looking at the assemble guide, and about the 3 lock leds. was wondering if the kit is supposed to come with those 3 leds. If not, which ones should i buy, and is there anything else I should know. Would be easy to add them later? Probably not im guessing because of the plate
usually will not come with them. From the assembly guide he uses 1.8mm LEDs. If you never soldered them in, you could add them later at any time no issues. Just take it apart and solder them in.
So dumb question. Just got my kit, everything seems to work fine when testing the pcb, which is great. Was looking at the assemble guide, and about the 3 lock leds. was wondering if the kit is supposed to come with those 3 leds. If not, which ones should i buy, and is there anything else I should know. Would be easy to add them later? Probably not im guessing because of the plate
usually will not come with them. From the assembly guide he uses 1.8mm LEDs. If you never soldered them in, you could add them later at any time no issues. Just take it apart and solder them in.
Awesome! thanks, im actually just about to start soldering. How did people break apart the pcb?
usually with 2 sets of pliers very carefully.
Mine says it was delivered to my front door...and is not there...looks like I'm filing a claim in the morning...ffs...
That really sucks. Luckily I signed up for text alerts for when mine arrived today, because they didnt knock or ring the doorbell. Just snuck up and left it in front of the door
Yeah, I'm praying that my leasing office has it, or else I'm going to get to deal trying to pry $600 from the post office
So dumb question. Just got my kit, everything seems to work fine when testing the pcb, which is great. Was looking at the assemble guide, and about the 3 lock leds. was wondering if the kit is supposed to come with those 3 leds. If not, which ones should i buy, and is there anything else I should know. Would be easy to add them later? Probably not im guessing because of the plate
usually will not come with them. From the assembly guide he uses 1.8mm LEDs. If you never soldered them in, you could add them later at any time no issues. Just take it apart and solder them in.
Awesome! thanks, im actually just about to start soldering. How did people break apart the pcb?
usually with 2 sets of pliers very carefully.
The PCB doesn't have SMD resistors soldered on to enable the indicator lights (marked as R8, R9 and R10 on the PCB).
You'd also need so source some 910 ohm SMD resistors (of the correct size) and solder them to the PCB on those pads to get those indicators to work.
SUCCESS! Received this morning. It was at my leasing office. So hyped!;D :thumb:
Yeah, similar issue here.
Just received package. Checked the PCB, working well.
Did anyone else ordered dark grey variant? The one I received seems too light to be dark grey, maybe I would call that slightly grey. I took a few pics to compare with whitefox.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kw79PhV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NcKMmBM.jpg)
Just received package. Checked the PCB, working well.
Did anyone else ordered dark grey variant? The one I received seems too light to be dark grey, maybe I would call that slightly grey. I took a few pics to compare with whitefox.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kw79PhV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NcKMmBM.jpg)
I thought it would be darker too, but it's far enough away from silver that I'm happy with it.
Just received package. Checked the PCB, working well.
Did anyone else ordered dark grey variant? The one I received seems too light to be dark grey, maybe I would call that slightly grey. I took a few pics to compare with whitefox.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kw79PhV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NcKMmBM.jpg)
I thought it would be darker too, but it's far enough away from silver that I'm happy with it.
You ordered dark grey too? Well then, guess I just have to wait for zeal stabs to start assembling. Thank you
Just received package. Checked the PCB, working well.
Did anyone else ordered dark grey variant? The one I received seems too light to be dark grey, maybe I would call that slightly grey. I took a few pics to compare with whitefox.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Kw79PhV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NcKMmBM.jpg)
I thought it would be darker too, but it's far enough away from silver that I'm happy with it.
You ordered dark grey too? Well then, guess I just have to wait for zeal stabs to start assembling. Thank you
Yeah, same here on zeal stabs. Can't wait to get it up and running!
SUCCESS! Received this morning. It was at my leasing office. So hyped!
SUCCESS! Received this morning. It was at my leasing office. So hyped!
Did Massdrop add signature confirmation to everyone's packages? I know the Postal Service requires it on anything shipped with a declared value of $750 or greater.
is there any news about plate/case dxf files? i'm interested in building my own split60 and wanted to see how others are doing it for the cases and plates.
and btw, if the solderless connection works, i want to see how to do it too!!
Sorry I kept you waiting.
It was long holiday in Korea.
I'm working on it :)
Wait a little more please.
SUCCESS! Received this morning. It was at my leasing office. So hyped!
Did Massdrop add signature confirmation to everyone's packages? I know the Postal Service requires it on anything shipped with a declared value of $750 or greater.
I wish they had. Mine was just dropped off at my leasing office without one.
your PCB is fine my man. Package is on my bed at home ^_^
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
we want more from Oddforge!!!
we want more from Oddforge!!!
Hmm, what you want more?
Let us know :)
we want more from Oddforge!!!
Hmm, what you want more?
Let us know :)
Vergo type.T-III - a 65% version of the VE.A :)
ohpleaseohpleaseohpleaseohpleaseohplease!
please make more boards friend
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
please make more boards friend
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We will :)
But first we really want you are happy about VE.A.
i'm happy i have two
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes, but only once you guys have properly recovered from this GB!we want more from Oddforge!!!
Hmm, what you want more?
Let us know :)
Yes, but only once you guys have properly recovered from this GB!we want more from Oddforge!!!
Hmm, what you want more?
Let us know :)
Also, plz maintain Alps compatibility, sadly it's not even a consideration with most customs.
Hmm, what you want more?
Let us know :)
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
Hmm, could you take picture of unbalanced parts? I don't understand what you meant.
We have assembled 3 samples before and didn't find any problem. Maybe it's something that I cannot realize as a problem.
And PC bolt size is M3 x 15mm.
You can use any bolt with that spec.
Here's one tip about worn bolt head.
http://m.blog.naver.com/panday/220035533252
it's wrote in Korean but you can get what you need from pictures :)
WMP dropped from 120 to 40, but at least she looks pretty!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3scadb.jpg)
Went with Cherry Clears + 60g gold springs + Krytox 103/205 mix.
WMP dropped from 120 to 40, but at least she looks pretty!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3scadb.jpg)
Went with Cherry Clears + 60g gold springs + Krytox 103/205 mix.
What is WMP?
BTW it looks good :)
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
Hmm, could you take picture of unbalanced parts? I don't understand what you meant.
We have assembled 3 samples before and didn't find any problem. Maybe it's something that I cannot realize as a problem.
And PC bolt size is M3 x 15mm.
You can use any bolt with that spec.
Here's one tip about worn bolt head.
http://m.blog.naver.com/panday/220035533252
it's wrote in Korean but you can get what you need from pictures :)
Sorry, literally spent the last 3 hours unsoldering all my switches (ruining a couple, gonna need to find salvage some from my ergodox/sampler). So basically when the plate and pcp attached to the top plate, and then I put it on the acrylic/bottom layers, it tilts from the lower left to upper right for me, I was thinking I didnt solder the switches uniformly, so about to try it again, starting by soldering the 4 corners making sure it fits right, and going slowly from there
WMP dropped from 120 to 40, but at least she looks pretty!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3scadb.jpg)
Went with Cherry Clears + 60g gold springs + Krytox 103/205 mix.
What is WMP?
BTW it looks good :)
I think he meant words per min. Typing speed. I could be wrong.
WMP dropped from 120 to 40, but at least she looks pretty!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3scadb.jpg)
Went with Cherry Clears + 60g gold springs + Krytox 103/205 mix.
What is WMP?
BTW it looks good :)
I think he meant words per min. Typing speed. I could be wrong.
That makes sense, thanks :)
I found a great alternative to the standard SATA cable for connecting the two halves:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
I found a great alternative to the standard SATA cable for connecting the two halves:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
WMP dropped from 120 to 40, but at least she looks pretty!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/u3scadb.jpg)
Went with Cherry Clears + 60g gold springs + Krytox 103/205 mix.
What is WMP?
BTW it looks good :)
I think he meant words per min. Typing speed. I could be wrong.
That makes sense, thanks :)
Thanks zefyer! Could I have the 3M part number for the rubber feet that comes with the tenting stand? The clear one.
I found a great alternative to the standard SATA cable for connecting the two halves:
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
Hmm, could you take picture of unbalanced parts? I don't understand what you meant.
We have assembled 3 samples before and didn't find any problem. Maybe it's something that I cannot realize as a problem.
And PC bolt size is M3 x 15mm.
You can use any bolt with that spec.
Here's one tip about worn bolt head.
http://m.blog.naver.com/panday/220035533252
it's wrote in Korean but you can get what you need from pictures :)
Sorry, literally spent the last 3 hours unsoldering all my switches (ruining a couple, gonna need to find salvage some from my ergodox/sampler). So basically when the plate and pcp attached to the top plate, and then I put it on the acrylic/bottom layers, it tilts from the lower left to upper right for me, I was thinking I didnt solder the switches uniformly, so about to try it again, starting by soldering the 4 corners making sure it fits right, and going slowly from there
It's really confusing to track your posts. Haha :)
I saw your post on MD and replied.
Here's a copy of it.
----------
Here I understand what "wobbling" means is "bottom side is not perfectly flat", right?
I checked it with my old VE.A, it's fine. And I tested twisting it with my hand. Then the wobbling thing happens.
It looks not a delicate solution but can you try twisting it a little? That might helps.
----------
I have to say really sorry for Alps fans since Alps switch mounting plate will not be provided in Massdrop.
I believe all Alps fans can understand why I removed this option.
But I'll explain anyway.
Alps mounting system is very strict about layout.
It has no sustain pins like Cherry MX, and stabilizers is mounted on mounting plate so "Universal Alps plate" cannot be made.
Plus, there's no "Standard" keycap sets for alps (except Matias, but I don't want to limit selection of keycaps.).
So, We will share alps plate drawing on public.
And for who have no access to metalworks shop, we will accept order of Alps plate in our website.
This can make you spend another shipping money. but at this time, I have no better way.
Sorry again and thank you for your understanding in advance :)
Boosted question, but which column/row is the 1U key that is left of the 2U key on the left unit in bootmapper?
Boosted question, but which column/row is the 1U key that is left of the 2U key on the left unit in bootmapper?
Sweet, thank you!
check toggle bootmapper box and hit the key :) It will highlight position.
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
Yeah, similar issue here.
Well least Im not the only one, thought I was going to have to unsolder the entire board of the switches and try again. Maybe one of the chips doesnt have enough clearance to rest on the acrylic layer? Going to take another look tonight. Also, does anyone know where I can buy more of these plastic screws for the case? They strip very easily >.>
was having the same issue. Re-tighten all 4 of those rubbers screws on the back to about the same tightness. If one screw is looser than the other 3 it'll wobble a little. Re-tightened mine, solid as a rock now.
Are resistors required for the lock indicator LEDs?
I see solder pads for them on the bottom of the PCB, but they aren't mentioned in the build guide. Would appreciate any feedback from those who've built theirs already. :)
Are resistors required for the lock indicator LEDs?
I see solder pads for them on the bottom of the PCB, but they aren't mentioned in the build guide. Would appreciate any feedback from those who've built theirs already. :)
I assume yes because there is room for them.
I built mine from r1 of the kr gb with the translated instructions.
Are resistors required for the lock indicator LEDs?
I see solder pads for them on the bottom of the PCB, but they aren't mentioned in the build guide. Would appreciate any feedback from those who've built theirs already. :)
I assume yes because there is room for them.
I built mine from r1 of the kr gb with the translated instructions.
Did they cover resistors for the lock indicators in those instructions?
Are resistors required for the lock indicator LEDs?
I see solder pads for them on the bottom of the PCB, but they aren't mentioned in the build guide. Would appreciate any feedback from those who've built theirs already. :)
I assume yes because there is room for them.
I built mine from r1 of the kr gb with the translated instructions.
Did they cover resistors for the lock indicators in those instructions?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3152205&mid=board_tune&document_srl=3216765
Are resistors required for the lock indicator LEDs?
I see solder pads for them on the bottom of the PCB, but they aren't mentioned in the build guide. Would appreciate any feedback from those who've built theirs already. :)
I assume yes because there is room for them.
I built mine from r1 of the kr gb with the translated instructions.
Did they cover resistors for the lock indicators in those instructions?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3152205&mid=board_tune&document_srl=3216765
Not sure if i missed, but were there instructions for assembling the tented stand? I feel like I'm trying to put legos together without documentation haha. Also, same question with the lock leds. Any suggestions for resistors for the locks?
We apologize that didn't describe SMT option specific.
Our recommended resistor is over 330ohm~910ohm depending what LED you use and what bright you prefer :)
It's your choice
You are right :)We apologize that didn't describe SMT option specific.
Our recommended resistor is over 330ohm~910ohm depending what LED you use and what bright you prefer :)
It's your choice
Too late! :P Using 100-200 ohm resistors on my lock indicators and they're fine. There are only 3 of them so they're pulling a negligible current - maybe 50mA total and only when all 3 are lit.
I looked up aliexpress for 910ohm smd resistors. There seems to have more than 1 type.0805 is what Vergo type.T-II uses. 1%/5% means precision which is not a big deal for LED.
- 0603 910 ohm SMD Resistor 5% 1/10W 910R 910ohm Chip Surface Mount Resistor ROHS
- 0402 910 ohm SMD Resistor 1% 1/16W 910R 910ohm Chip Surface Mount Resistor ROHS
- 0805 910 ohm SMD Resistor 1% 1/8W
Might have more type than what I listed. Any idea which percentage and wattage rating to get?
Thanks
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
I looked up aliexpress for 910ohm smd resistors. There seems to have more than 1 type.0805 is what Vergo type.T-II uses. 1%/5% means precision which is not a big deal for LED.
- 0603 910 ohm SMD Resistor 5% 1/10W 910R 910ohm Chip Surface Mount Resistor ROHS
- 0402 910 ohm SMD Resistor 1% 1/16W 910R 910ohm Chip Surface Mount Resistor ROHS
- 0805 910 ohm SMD Resistor 1% 1/8W
Might have more type than what I listed. Any idea which percentage and wattage rating to get?
Thanks
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Hey you did it very nicely :)
Hope you enjoy VE.A.
Thanks for your support buddy.
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Hey you did it very nicely :)
Hope you enjoy VE.A.
Thanks for your support buddy.
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Hey you did it very nicely :)
Hope you enjoy VE.A.
Thanks for your support buddy.
I cannot get enough of what I am seeing of the VE.A, I so profoundly hope we will see a round 2 of these, exactly the same design, they are perfect. You created an amazing design that was so well realized with a wonderful attention to detail and didn't have to sacrifice style or functionality to any critical level. Love it! Keep the pictures coming guys!!!
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Where did you score those grey blanks for the spacebar, etc? Are they GMK?
Cross-posting from Massdrop comments...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y73YNMC.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i763bv5.jpg?1)
Sorry for potato quality.
Where did you score those grey blanks for the spacebar, etc? Are they GMK?
Hi everyone. Need some help here. I got the left half one done and it is working fine. Just finished the right half. All the keys are working except
H J K L :
5 keys in a row are not working. Maybe a line is disconnected somewhere?
Looks like I won't be able to build mine until November since I'm waiting on some Zeal parts :(
Yup. Same for me too. Ordered some stabs. Hopefully VE.A package will arrive safely and everything is perfect, PCB is working, etc. Would be good to make sure to test the PCB, check the casing even if you are not building it yet. I think by Nov, any spare VE.A from zefyr might be put up for sale for any interested buyers, not confirm, just my thought.
That is a good point, I'll be sure to do that.
Good point :)
We will save spares for unexpected accident.
And put them on sale after 2~3 weeks later.
Hi everyone. Need some help here. I got the left half one done and it is working fine. Just finished the right half. All the keys are working except
H J K L :
5 keys in a row are not working. Maybe a line is disconnected somewhere?
Hi everyone. Need some help here. I got the left half one done and it is working fine. Just finished the right half. All the keys are working except
H J K L :
5 keys in a row are not working. Maybe a line is disconnected somewhere?
Anyone? Something is wrong with Column 3, 9 to 13.
H Col:3 Row:9
J Col:3 Row:10
K Col:3 Row:11
L Col:3 Row:12
: Col:3 Row:13
Anyone? Zefyr?
Holy ****! I found a defect on the PCB and fixed it. I need Oddforge or Zefyr to confirm this is a good fix.
I spent the whole night using a multi-meter to see if I could figure anything out. I noticed that on most rows, the bottom end of the diodes on the same row connects to each other, except the HJKL; row. And I checked that they do connect between ; L K J H, but not between " and ;.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3pexVJ.jpg)
At first I thought the via was plugged and causing the problem, but when I looked closer, the trace is actually disconnected (at the red rectangle). I jumped and connected these points and looks like all the keys are working now.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JRrocIM.jpg)
I am glad I fixed it. But I am mad that the PCB is defective, and caused me so much grief...
Can I get a replacement PCB?
Holy ****! I found a defect on the PCB and fixed it. I need Oddforge or Zefyr to confirm this is a good fix.
I spent the whole night using a multi-meter to see if I could figure anything out. I noticed that on most rows, the bottom end of the diodes on the same row connects to each other, except the HJKL; row. And I checked that they do connect between ; L K J H, but not between " and ;.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3pexVJ.jpg)
At first I thought the via was plugged and causing the problem, but when I looked closer, the trace is actually disconnected (at the red rectangle). I jumped and connected these points and looks like all the keys are working now.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JRrocIM.jpg)
I am glad I fixed it. But I am mad that the PCB is defective, and caused me so much grief...
Can I get a replacement PCB?
I have not build my kb yet and checked the area marked in red. There is indeed a connection. I guess the PCB you received do have defects. Does it work now though, with the jumper?
Hope you get replacement if possible.
I'd shoot the oddforge team an email. Email address is on the site and zefyr has posted it a page back on the thread as well.
BTW, anyone knows where I can find the keymapper user guide? The link http://oddforge.com/product/vea_userguide (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_userguide) on oddforge.com is broken.
Link to the Bootmapper programming guide (http://imgur.com/a/Jbdh4) created by XX7.
Holy ****! I found a defect on the PCB and fixed it. I need Oddforge or Zefyr to confirm this is a good fix.
I spent the whole night using a multi-meter to see if I could figure anything out. I noticed that on most rows, the bottom end of the diodes on the same row connects to each other, except the HJKL; row. And I checked that they do connect between ; L K J H, but not between " and ;.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3pexVJ.jpg)
At first I thought the via was plugged and causing the problem, but when I looked closer, the trace is actually disconnected (at the red rectangle). I jumped and connected these points and looks like all the keys are working now.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JRrocIM.jpg)
I am glad I fixed it. But I am mad that the PCB is defective, and caused me so much grief...
Can I get a replacement PCB?
Holy ****! I found a defect on the PCB and fixed it. I need Oddforge or Zefyr to confirm this is a good fix.
I spent the whole night using a multi-meter to see if I could figure anything out. I noticed that on most rows, the bottom end of the diodes on the same row connects to each other, except the HJKL; row. And I checked that they do connect between ; L K J H, but not between " and ;.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/i3pexVJ.jpg)
At first I thought the via was plugged and causing the problem, but when I looked closer, the trace is actually disconnected (at the red rectangle). I jumped and connected these points and looks like all the keys are working now.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JRrocIM.jpg)
I am glad I fixed it. But I am mad that the PCB is defective, and caused me so much grief...
Can I get a replacement PCB?
Sorry for late response!
I'm gonna check your picture and test it with stock PCB.
And reply as soon as possible!
Got in touch with zefyr. He is going to take care of it. Thanks zefyr!
Meanwhile, I need a good short spacebar (2.75x?). That long shift key is hurting my thumb. I flipped it upside down and it doesn't hurt as much, but it is still a little weird.
Best ergo keyboard ever IMO. And I have a lot of ergo keyboards. Love the acrylic tent. Really well designed. It is made of acrylic but there is no flex!
Recently I heard something about aftermarket.Yeah, happens quite a bit in this hobby. Korean kustoms, artisans, keysets etc.
That VE.A is traded very high prices.
In ROK, overprice trading is a kind of taboo.
So we didn't expect something like this.
Is there somebody who can give the information of that tradings for us?
We wanted to people actually typing with VE.A... not for aftermatket profits...
Maybe this is something we should accept as culture difference. Hmm...
Recently I heard something about aftermarket.Yeah, happens quite a bit in this hobby. Korean kustoms, artisans, keysets etc.
That VE.A is traded very high prices.
In ROK, overprice trading is a kind of taboo.
So we didn't expect something like this.
Is there somebody who can give the information of that tradings for us?
We wanted to people actually typing with VE.A... not for aftermatket profits...
Maybe this is something we should accept as culture difference. Hmm...
Recently I heard something about aftermarket.
That VE.A is traded very high prices.
In ROK, overprice trading is a kind of taboo.
So we didn't expect something like this.
Is there somebody who can give the information of that tradings for us?
We wanted to people actually typing with VE.A... not for aftermatket profits...
Maybe this is something we should accept as culture difference. Hmm...
I have tried SP's DSA with space (mixing with DCS) and that worked for me :)
I have tried SP's DSA with space (mixing with DCS) and that worked for me :)
I am getting more comfortable with the upside-down long shift key as my right spacebar. Last time I checked the shortest spacebar Signature Plastics makes is 4x long spacebar. Are there enough interests to have SP make a new mold for a 2.75x spacebar?
dunno if you have seen this, but i would encourage everyone to get involved in this -
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82737
where can I find the MX plate file?
where can I find the MX plate file?
I'm actually also looking for the MX plate CAD file, I want to make the switches removable. Can ZeFyr help with this?
Been using my VE.A for about two weeks now and keep getting better at it. My first split layout keyboard, glad I got the tenting stands ;)
Had to build them using the Korean instructions ... but still got it right the first time!
Switches are vintage MX Blacks with 45gr. springs, Cherry dyesub keycaps (SAD) with GMK RGB modifiers. Hope you like it!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/JAaGRHi.jpg)
Seeking a little advice before I finally start my soldering. This will be my first DIY board, and the number of mistakes I have made in other hobbies has taught me not to make assumptions about assembly.
Can anyone confirm that the following photo is the correct assembly for the lock LEDs, with the resistor in place? And for the LED polarity, that the + lead is on the left, from this perspective?
Thanks in advance!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/66378dd758b3b02f11600df89b0f1c79.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
just so you know, LEDs in backwards will not hurt anything as they are in fact diodes which emit light. So you can just plug in the PCB to test if they are on (though the switches for the Leds caps lock etc. might need to be pushed.)
Seeking a little advice before I finally start my soldering. This will be my first DIY board, and the number of mistakes I have made in other hobbies has taught me not to make assumptions about assembly.
Can anyone confirm that the following photo is the correct assembly for the lock LEDs, with the resistor in place? And for the LED polarity, that the + lead is on the left, from this perspective?
Thanks in advance!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/66378dd758b3b02f11600df89b0f1c79.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
just so you know, LEDs in backwards will not hurt anything as they are in fact diodes which emit light. So you can just plug in the PCB to test if they are on (though the switches for the Leds caps lock etc. might need to be pushed.)
Thanks for the reply! If it's not obvious by now, my knowledge of electronics is astonishingly low for someone interested in something like custom keyboards. I'll take your advice and just see if it works in their configuration.
Is the resistor in the right spot? I can't see a reason for it to be anywhere else, but my inexperience is making me figure these things out beforehand because I hate hate hate desoldering. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
unlike the LED, the resistor is not polarized. it doesn't matter which way you solder it. Provided that's the right part you're good
Seeking a little advice before I finally start my soldering. This will be my first DIY board, and the number of mistakes I have made in other hobbies has taught me not to make assumptions about assembly.
Can anyone confirm that the following photo is the correct assembly for the lock LEDs, with the resistor in place? And for the LED polarity, that the + lead is on the left, from this perspective?
Thanks in advance!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161009/66378dd758b3b02f11600df89b0f1c79.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
just so you know, LEDs in backwards will not hurt anything as they are in fact diodes which emit light. So you can just plug in the PCB to test if they are on (though the switches for the Leds caps lock etc. might need to be pushed.)
Thanks for the reply! If it's not obvious by now, my knowledge of electronics is astonishingly low for someone interested in something like custom keyboards. I'll take your advice and just see if it works in their configuration.
Is the resistor in the right spot? I can't see a reason for it to be anywhere else, but my inexperience is making me figure these things out beforehand because I hate hate hate desoldering. :)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
unlike the LED, the resistor is not polarized. it doesn't matter which way you solder it. Provided that's the right part you're good
I think the resistors are supposed to go on the other side (back) on the pads marked R8, R9 and R10.
The markings on the front imply the pads there are meant for diodes, or more likely, SMD LEDs.
Thanks for the help everyone! Indeed, the resistors do go on the backside. Had them soldered on the front with no results. Removed those and put new ones on the back and all lock indicators worked without a hitch!Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161010/0e98319b21be199de4d313db5520daa5.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the help everyone! Indeed, the resistors do go on the backside. Had them soldered on the front with no results. Removed those and put new ones on the back and all lock indicators worked without a hitch!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Excellent!
If your hands are steady enough for SMD resistors the rest will be easy.
Good skills.
Remember to do the stabilizers before soldering it all together ;)
Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but how do you split the PCB from the guide parts? The instructions on oddforge simply says split, and I am not sure if that means I can just apply force or if I should cut the PCB out from the guide parts...
Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but how do you split the PCB from the guide parts? The instructions on oddforge simply says split, and I am not sure if that means I can just apply force or if I should cut the PCB out from the guide parts...
Break the frame parts off, this shouldn't require much force and hardly ever fails. Use some flat nose plier to grab the frame for a better lever if you must.
Sorry if this is a really stupid question, but how do you split the PCB from the guide parts? The instructions on oddforge simply says split, and I am not sure if that means I can just apply force or if I should cut the PCB out from the guide parts...
Break the frame parts off, this shouldn't require much force and hardly ever fails. Use some flat nose plier to grab the frame for a better lever if you must.
Can confirm, any type of pliers on the outer frame portion of the PCB makes removing it MUCH easier. Just grab near the perforated joint and twist. It snaps off cleanly.
where can I find the MX plate file?
I'm actually also looking for the MX plate CAD file, I want to make the switches removable. Can ZeFyr help with this?
Depending on what machinery you have access to, it could be around the same price to hotlite socket your keyboard including leds.
It's pretty much putting holtite sockets on the switch pin holes to make them hot swappable. As seen here https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/558zuj/switch_swappable_jd45/where can I find the MX plate file?
I'm actually also looking for the MX plate CAD file, I want to make the switches removable. Can ZeFyr help with this?
Depending on what machinery you have access to, it could be around the same price to hotlite socket your keyboard including leds.
Could you kindly explain to me what do you mean by hotlite socket? I am not aware of this terminology.
Hey, it's my hobby :) please do not forget that.
Some guys already talks about another round.
That is "A LOT OF PRESSURE" on me.
I absolutely have NO plan for another round.
I have NO plan to sell VE.A on my website, yet.
where can I find the MX plate file?
I'm actually also looking for the MX plate CAD file, I want to make the switches removable. Can ZeFyr help with this?
Depending on what machinery you have access to, it could be around the same price to hotlite socket your keyboard including leds.
Could you kindly explain to me what do you mean by hotlite socket? I am not aware of this terminology.
Might be interested in B stock depending on what the issues are and what colors are available.
Might be interested in B stock depending on what the issues are and what colors are available.
Color options are same silver/grey/black limited quantity. we are counting available parts.
some parts are really minor, we almost sure, one out of three person can find defection.
It's like
- scratches can be seen with direct bright sunshine reflex
- small dent on surface
- noticible scratch or unfinished-machine-cutting-trace on bottom plate
- some major scratches on backside which will not be seen when using it
We will upload picture when it's up.
Actually, we don't think this defection is A issue to almost everyone who need this for practical using.
What we really worried about is... turning into a normal one on aftermarket.
We have to protect our friends' feeling who paid whole price for it, and we are thinking about protections.
(This DOES not means I'm for highly overcharged price on aftermatket.)
That might be a plan :)Might be interested in B stock depending on what the issues are and what colors are available.
Color options are same silver/grey/black limited quantity. we are counting available parts.
some parts are really minor, we almost sure, one out of three person can find defection.
It's like
- scratches can be seen with direct bright sunshine reflex
- small dent on surface
- noticible scratch or unfinished-machine-cutting-trace on bottom plate
- some major scratches on backside which will not be seen when using it
We will upload picture when it's up.
Actually, we don't think this defection is A issue to almost everyone who need this for practical using.
What we really worried about is... turning into a normal one on aftermarket.
We have to protect our friends' feeling who paid whole price for it, and we are thinking about protections.
(This DOES not means I'm for highly overcharged price on aftermatket.)
Why not mark them as B stock? A little marking or intentional scratch on the inside of the cases is all you'd need!
...
In ROK, overprice trading is a kind of taboo.
...
One of the main reasons why I am having problems selling some of my recycling center finds at awesome prices publicly is because some of them show up for 2x-4x the price in some member-to-member section somewhere.
...
In ROK, overprice trading is a kind of taboo.
...
I wish that was stigmatized more in the EU/US communities as well. One of the main reasons why I am having problems selling some of my recycling center finds at awesome prices publicly is because some of them show up for 2x-4x the price in some member-to-member section somewhere.
I planned on refinishing mine a different color. As long as the B-stock damage isn't harsh (deep dent, a mark that refinishing cannot repair), I would be okay with that. I've always wanted a VE.A in another color, one not offered in the GB.
I planned on refinishing mine a different color. As long as the B-stock damage isn't harsh (deep dent, a mark that refinishing cannot repair), I would be okay with that. I've always wanted a VE.A in another color, one not offered in the GB.
That's a great idea. I'd love to pick up a B-stock one and do some mods to it - really give it some personality and make it mine. :D
Which color would the best for something like re-anodizing or powder coating? Or does it not matter?
I'm no expert, but to reanodize, it shouldn't matter. They strip the anodizing down and you can have the surface refinished before anodizing. Ever noticed how evangs' Van keyboards have a glossy finish? That would be polished aluminum. I think media blasting is the most typical finish. I've always wanted a board with a light brushed finish myself.
As far as powder coating, I think they can probably apply that over the anodized layer, but I'm not sure about the adhesion. There's also the option of cerakote too, which is cheap but very durable and comes in a ton of colors.
Thanks for the clarification! Would you say that an anodized finish is the most durable of the three?
Thanks for the clarification! Would you say that an anodized finish is the most durable of the three?
Announcement from oddforge
Anyway, there was 6~7 batches and there's always some parts which contains minor issues.
Which contains minor dents of scratches, or slight color difference on each parts.
We didn't sent back parts with issues to factory yet.
That's what I meant by B-stock.
We need to check out your interests about it.
We will release those with discount if there's somebody who wants it. (around 20% from our MSRP)
Announcement from oddforge
Anyway, there was 6~7 batches and there's always some parts which contains minor issues.
Which contains minor dents of scratches, or slight color difference on each parts.
We didn't sent back parts with issues to factory yet.
That's what I meant by B-stock.
We need to check out your interests about it.
We will release those with discount if there's somebody who wants it. (around 20% from our MSRP)
I joined the GB for full group buy price (plus tax), and my case has a dent in it from shipping. Feels bad :(
Announcement from oddforge
Anyway, there was 6~7 batches and there's always some parts which contains minor issues.
Which contains minor dents of scratches, or slight color difference on each parts.
We didn't sent back parts with issues to factory yet.
That's what I meant by B-stock.
We need to check out your interests about it.
We will release those with discount if there's somebody who wants it. (around 20% from our MSRP)
I joined the GB for full group buy price (plus tax), and my case has a dent in it from shipping. Feels bad :(
Did you send them photos of the dent? Any word on replacement?
Announcement from oddforge
Anyway, there was 6~7 batches and there's always some parts which contains minor issues.
Which contains minor dents of scratches, or slight color difference on each parts.
We didn't sent back parts with issues to factory yet.
That's what I meant by B-stock.
We need to check out your interests about it.
We will release those with discount if there's somebody who wants it. (around 20% from our MSRP)
I joined the GB for full group buy price (plus tax), and my case has a dent in it from shipping. Feels bad :(
Did you send them photos of the dent? Any word on replacement?
I've posted it in this thread but I haven't asked for any kind of replacement. It's pretty small and unnoticeable during use, but just the fact that I paid GB price while B-stocks are being planned for -20% off MSRP bothers me a little.
RMA with massdrop man. no reason for that.
i need help with my ve.a. everything was working fine til today after i finished installing the switches only one rgb led is working on the right board. i tried changing number of leds on bmc, but it didn't work. it was working just fine last night. i also tried using different usb cables.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaRFMvb.jpg)
i need help with my ve.a. everything was working fine til today after i finished installing the switches only one rgb led is working on the right board. i tried changing number of leds on bmc, but it didn't work. it was working just fine last night. i also tried using different usb cables.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaRFMvb.jpg)
i need help with my ve.a. everything was working fine til today after i finished installing the switches only one rgb led is working on the right board. i tried changing number of leds on bmc, but it didn't work. it was working just fine last night. i also tried using different usb cables.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaRFMvb.jpg)
It looks like you're using holtite sockets, correct? Did you check to see if the PCB was functioning after you installed the sockets? I can only imagine that socketing could've lifted pads or traces, but the issue you're having sounds more like a bridging issue. If you didn't use solder though, then I'm not sure what to tell you.
Holtite sockets can cause stress to the PCB, but I'm more experienced with Alps in that regard, which already entails a pretty destructive procedure to install them. These sockets don't seem to be very wide so I don't see them putting much stress on the PCB.
Are the keys registering? Is the problem ONLY with the RGB LEDs?
i need help with my ve.a. everything was working fine til today after i finished installing the switches only one rgb led is working on the right board. i tried changing number of leds on bmc, but it didn't work. it was working just fine last night. i also tried using different usb cables.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaRFMvb.jpg)
It looks like you're using holtite sockets, correct? Did you check to see if the PCB was functioning after you installed the sockets? I can only imagine that socketing could've lifted pads or traces, but the issue you're having sounds more like a bridging issue. If you didn't use solder though, then I'm not sure what to tell you.
Holtite sockets can cause stress to the PCB, but I'm more experienced with Alps in that regard, which already entails a pretty destructive procedure to install them. These sockets don't seem to be very wide so I don't see them putting much stress on the PCB.
Are the keys registering? Is the problem ONLY with the RGB LEDs?
Yes, all leds were workingng before isntallation on holtite sockets. All keys are registering. Everything looks fine, but I have no idea why suddenly they stopped working. I also tried different SATA cables and plugging the keyboard on different USB sockets, but none of them worked. :'(
Announcement from oddforge
Anyway, there was 6~7 batches and there's always some parts which contains minor issues.
Which contains minor dents of scratches, or slight color difference on each parts.
We didn't sent back parts with issues to factory yet.
That's what I meant by B-stock.
We need to check out your interests about it.
We will release those with discount if there's somebody who wants it. (around 20% from our MSRP)
I joined the GB for full group buy price (plus tax), and my case has a dent in it from shipping. Feels bad :(
Did you send them photos of the dent? Any word on replacement?
I've posted it in this thread but I haven't asked for any kind of replacement. It's pretty small and unnoticeable during use, but just the fact that I paid GB price while B-stocks are being planned for -20% off MSRP bothers me a little.
RMA with massdrop man. no reason for that.
Alright, I'll send in a support ticket and see what comes of it.
i need help with my ve.a. everything was working fine til today after i finished installing the switches only one rgb led is working on the right board. i tried changing number of leds on bmc, but it didn't work. it was working just fine last night. i also tried using different usb cables.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/oaRFMvb.jpg)
It looks like you're using holtite sockets, correct? Did you check to see if the PCB was functioning after you installed the sockets? I can only imagine that socketing could've lifted pads or traces, but the issue you're having sounds more like a bridging issue. If you didn't use solder though, then I'm not sure what to tell you.
Holtite sockets can cause stress to the PCB, but I'm more experienced with Alps in that regard, which already entails a pretty destructive procedure to install them. These sockets don't seem to be very wide so I don't see them putting much stress on the PCB.
Are the keys registering? Is the problem ONLY with the RGB LEDs?
Yes, all leds were workingng before isntallation on holtite sockets. All keys are registering. Everything looks fine, but I have no idea why suddenly they stopped working. I also tried different SATA cables and plugging the keyboard on different USB sockets, but none of them worked. :'(
Hmm, then I really don't see how the sockets could have affected your VE.A.
Like hkf mentioned, I'd check the contact points on the LEDs. I'd personally use a continuity tester to see if there's a broken or bridged path somewhere or something not quite right.
Everything is good now. Just reheated all the solder points of the leds. thank you guys. :thumb:WOW!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ogTtFYB.jpg)
Hello,
We are very curious about dent you got.
Our quality check is done by 2~3 steps.
Every parts have checked with at least 6 eyes.
If you have noticeable dent, that must be caused during shipping.
We have faith on our quality check about aluminium surfaces.
And only with this faith, we can decide to sell our B-stock, because its' quality are different.
Still, our quality line for B-stock is also high, we don't want to sell out ****ty things.
That's why we are very concerned about some matters, and considering leave B-stock marking on inner surface.
PS : Contact our support email if you need any help from us :)
QuoteHello,
We are very curious about dent you got.
Our quality check is done by 2~3 steps.
Every parts have checked with at least 6 eyes.
If you have noticeable dent, that must be caused during shipping.
We have faith on our quality check about aluminium surfaces.
And only with this faith, we can decide to sell our B-stock, because its' quality are different.
Still, our quality line for B-stock is also high, we don't want to sell out ****ty things.
That's why we are very concerned about some matters, and considering leave B-stock marking on inner surface.
PS : Contact our support email if you need any help from us :)
In regards to the B-stock sale that has been mentioned, do you only have b-stock cases left over? or are these full kits that are marked as b-stock? If its a kit that at least supplies the PCB and case, I'd definitely be interested.
Basic Kit it is :)
All case parts including aluminium case, polynate carbonate frame, switch mounting plate.
Of cource PCB and marking plate also included.
Only SATA Cable and USB mini cable will not be included.
QuoteHello,
We are very curious about dent you got.
Our quality check is done by 2~3 steps.
Every parts have checked with at least 6 eyes.
If you have noticeable dent, that must be caused during shipping.
We have faith on our quality check about aluminium surfaces.
And only with this faith, we can decide to sell our B-stock, because its' quality are different.
Still, our quality line for B-stock is also high, we don't want to sell out ****ty things.
That's why we are very concerned about some matters, and considering leave B-stock marking on inner surface.
PS : Contact our support email if you need any help from us :)
In regards to the B-stock sale that has been mentioned, do you only have b-stock cases left over? or are these full kits that are marked as b-stock? If its a kit that at least supplies the PCB and case, I'd definitely be interested.
Basic Kit it is :)
All case parts including aluminium case, polynate carbonate frame, switch mounting plate.
Of cource PCB and marking plate also included.
Only SATA Cable and USB mini cable will not be included.
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Are tenting stands unavailable through b-stock purchase?
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Are tenting stands unavailable through b-stock purchase?
We removed that option because that thing is really heavy (heavier than VE.A)
I don't have any idea about minimal shipping cost for that.
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
use linears bbI guess I do have some Gat Yellows lying around.
Are tenting stands unavailable through b-stock purchase?
We removed that option because that thing is really heavy (heavier than VE.A)
I don't have any idea about minimal shipping cost for that.
I see! Well, it is layered acrylic correct? Would it be possible for the file to be released so that users may create there own locally? I understand if not. Thanks for your responsiveness, as always. :thumb:
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Were the plate files ever released? I would like to have an aluminum plate instead of the default steel one :)
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Can we buy plate + pcb only?
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Can we buy plate + pcb only?
I don't see why not at this point.
But as always, nothing set firmly yet.
possibly.. the thing is the layout will determine MOQ. every layout would have a separate one. plus it's a small pool of people to deal with as well. [...]
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?
Can we buy plate + pcb only?
I don't see why not at this point.
But as always, nothing set firmly yet.
Love this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
Love this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
looks like that livestream one? I like the clear housing on it. I'm building mine right now actually just taking a break :)
Love this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
very nice picture :thumb:
BUMP
Quick Question About Price for B-stock.
- We will mark with small intentional dent on inside (totally invisible when assembled)
- Our MSRP is 450 USD, we will discount over 20% for B-stock. which will be around 350USD for Basic Kit + misc
---- Case, PCB, Plate
---- SATA cable, 3Lock LEDs with matching resistors (will not be pre-soldered) for your convenience.
- We will charge paypal fee to you.
- We will use EMS with tracking number. package weight is under 2.5kg (those who uses pounds, do your math by yourself)
----You can check your shipping cost at following link.
----http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal (http://ems.epost.go.kr/front.EmsDeliveryDelivery09.postal)
- We will not accept any undervalue request.
How's this sounds?
Any good?Can we buy plate + pcb only?
I don't see why not at this point.
But as always, nothing set firmly yet.
Whether I buy one of the B-stocks or just a backup pcb/plate depends on the price. Any idea how much spare PCB+Plates would cost?
I wasn't in the massdrop so I don't know what the retail for those was.
OMG...Love this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
looks like that livestream one? I like the clear housing on it. I'm building mine right now actually just taking a break :)
Correct. too lazy to setup the livestream again so I decided to finish the build without livestreaming it again. :pLove this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
very nice picture :thumb:
thanks! Here's another one.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nqphNwD.jpg)
How many switches are required for a normal ansi layout on this? I counted but want to make sure I was correct, I came up with 97.
that's how many massdrop gives you. I had what I thought was 98 switches, but I had two extra. I probably counted wrong. 100 is definitely save
Anyone have an idea as to why my Macro keys, 1 and 2 are not powering in switch LEDs? Everything else works, including those keys when pressed.
Checked for the obvious stuff and now I need a little help. Known good LEDs, correct polarity and powered USB port on my PC if that matters.
I don't see any bad soldering or poor connections but maybe you all have better eyes.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161014/43733d3713e76d07c6284945add320b6.jpg)
Anyone have an idea as to why my Macro keys, 1 and 2 are not powering in switch LEDs? Everything else works, including those keys when pressed.
Checked for the obvious stuff and now I need a little help. Known good LEDs, correct polarity and powered USB port on my PC if that matters.
I don't see any bad soldering or poor connections but maybe you all have better eyes.Show Image(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161014/43733d3713e76d07c6284945add320b6.jpg)
Read assembly guide please :)
http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_assembly)
Looking forward to getting a second, "B" stock Ve.A!! :thumb:
Is there any information as to when you'll open up selling the b-stock parts/kits?
I need one of those b-stock VE.As in my life! :eek:
- Transparent stabs, Lubed & Clipped
Not entirely sure tbh. I've clipped the old fashioned black ones and assumed the transparent variant needed the same treatment. They should be arriving this Friday so can't really confirm till I have them in my possession.
- Transparent stabs, Lubed & Clipped
Are there any transparent stabs that need to be clipped? The only ones I've seen thus far were Vintage style, meaning they don't need to be clipped.
Announcement from oddforge
We set a mailing list for B-stock GB.
Subscribe it if you need to be notified at important events.
http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD (http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD)
* We will announce here, GH, as always *
Announcement from oddforge
We set a mailing list for B-stock GB.
Subscribe it if you need to be notified at important events.
http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD (http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD)
* We will announce here, GH, as always *
How much stock do you have?
Will i be able to buy parts individually, or only as an entire keyboard? I'm only interested in the PCB, and ideally whatever parts it takes to assemble the PCB.
Announcement from oddforge
We set a mailing list for B-stock GB.
Subscribe it if you need to be notified at important events.
http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD (http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD)
* We will announce here, GH, as always *
How much stock do you have?
Will i be able to buy parts individually, or only as an entire keyboard? I'm only interested in the PCB, and ideally whatever parts it takes to assemble the PCB.
Why only the PCB? Building your own case?
Announcement from oddforge
We set a mailing list for B-stock GB.
Subscribe it if you need to be notified at important events.
http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD (http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD)
* We will announce here, GH, as always *
How much stock do you have?
Will i be able to buy parts individually, or only as an entire keyboard? I'm only interested in the PCB, and ideally whatever parts it takes to assemble the PCB.
Why only the PCB? Building your own case?
Announcement from oddforge
We set a mailing list for B-stock GB.
Subscribe it if you need to be notified at important events.
http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD (http://eepurl.com/ckXnGD)
* We will announce here, GH, as always *
How much stock do you have?
Will i be able to buy parts individually, or only as an entire keyboard? I'm only interested in the PCB, and ideally whatever parts it takes to assemble the PCB.
The gold case was a one-off by the way.
Does anyone know the spec for the plastic screws? They are too filmsy for my taste so I'm definitely replacing them with some stainless steel screws.I ordered some M3 15mm flat head hex screws and they work perfectly. If you pay for postage, I can send you some as I ordered 100.
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
gross china.
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
Not gonna hound you over buying 10 screws buhhh..
let's understand titanium alloy for a moment.
Its advantage is , more strength to weight ratio.. vs steel.
However, the strongest steel is stronger than the strongest titanium.
If you got high tensile steel screws, it is cheaper AND stronger than steel, but it will be heavier..
So, on a KEYBOARD, where it doesn't have to be light, and most of the weight is NOT the screws, it makes more sense to use steel instead of titanium..
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
Not gonna hound you over buying 10 screws buhhh..
let's understand titanium alloy for a moment.
Its advantage is , more strength to weight ratio.. vs steel.
However, the strongest steel is stronger than the strongest titanium.
If you got high tensile steel screws, it is cheaper AND stronger than steel, but it will be heavier..
So, on a KEYBOARD, where it doesn't have to be light, and most of the weight is NOT the screws, it makes more sense to use steel instead of titanium..
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
Not gonna hound you over buying 10 screws buhhh..
let's understand titanium alloy for a moment.
Its advantage is , more strength to weight ratio.. vs steel.
However, the strongest steel is stronger than the strongest titanium.
If you got high tensile steel screws, it is cheaper AND stronger than steel, but it will be heavier..
So, on a KEYBOARD, where it doesn't have to be light, and most of the weight is NOT the screws, it makes more sense to use steel instead of titanium..
They are just screws that I chose to replace those plastic ones... Don't have to be so serious, right? As long as it doesn't rust, doesn't strip, I don't care as much.
All these talks about screws and I am still here waiting for those stabs from Zeal before assembling my VE.A... probably looking at early Dec
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
Not gonna hound you over buying 10 screws buhhh..
let's understand titanium alloy for a moment.
Its advantage is , more strength to weight ratio.. vs steel.
However, the strongest steel is stronger than the strongest titanium.
If you got high tensile steel screws, it is cheaper AND stronger than steel, but it will be heavier..
So, on a KEYBOARD, where it doesn't have to be light, and most of the weight is NOT the screws, it makes more sense to use steel instead of titanium..
They are just screws that I chose to replace those plastic ones... Don't have to be so serious, right? As long as it doesn't rust, doesn't strip, I don't care as much.
All these talks about screws and I am still here waiting for those stabs from Zeal before assembling my VE.A... probably looking at early Dec
I bought some titanium screws instead. M3 x 15mm. Pack of 10.
Ebay link below
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222220208667
Not gonna hound you over buying 10 screws buhhh..
let's understand titanium alloy for a moment.
Its advantage is , more strength to weight ratio.. vs steel.
However, the strongest steel is stronger than the strongest titanium.
If you got high tensile steel screws, it is cheaper AND stronger than steel, but it will be heavier..
So, on a KEYBOARD, where it doesn't have to be light, and most of the weight is NOT the screws, it makes more sense to use steel instead of titanium..
They are just screws that I chose to replace those plastic ones... Don't have to be so serious, right? As long as it doesn't rust, doesn't strip, I don't care as much.
All these talks about screws and I am still here waiting for those stabs from Zeal before assembling my VE.A... probably looking at early Dec
Hmm, we choose PC bolts instead of STS because they looks better when assembled.
You can see some features that we choose quality over price.
like...
PC bolts for transparent effect. instead of STS bolts.
Diamond sanding at backside of black mounting plate. (funny, that side is not even visible.)
910 resistors for all in-switch LEDs for your convenience.
Finally got the chance to put it together.
- VE.A Silver w/Black Plate
- GMK Retro
- KK Miso Soup
- 62g Gateron Linear Clears - Lubed
- Trans Stabs - Lubed
- Sip Scoketed - White In Switch
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t3vxdMC.jpg)
Finally got the chance to put it together.
- VE.A Silver w/Black Plate
- GMK Retro
- KK Miso Soup
- 62g Gateron Linear Clears - Lubed
- Trans Stabs - Lubed
- Sip Scoketed - White In Switch
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/t3vxdMC.jpg)
Love this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
looks like that livestream one? I like the clear housing on it. I'm building mine right now actually just taking a break :)
Correct. too lazy to setup the livestream again so I decided to finish the build without livestreaming it again. :pLove this board. My new daily! :thumb:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PwgPtaB.jpg)
very nice picture :thumb:
thanks! Here's another one.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nqphNwD.jpg)
So I'm guessing we still have no clue when b-stock will be available?
seems you didn't see the email sign up. put email in. forget.
So I'm guessing we still have no clue when b-stock will be available?
seems you didn't see the email sign up. put email in. forget.
So I'm guessing we still have no clue when b-stock will be available?
seems you didn't see the email sign up. put email in. forget.
I would offer that some of us don't have the financial liberty to just forget about something that costs over $200, that's something I need to budget for, or set small amounts of money aside incrementally, where having a tentative date could ease that a little for lots of people
So I'm guessing we still have no clue when b-stock will be available?
seems you didn't see the email sign up. put email in. forget.
I would offer that some of us don't have the financial liberty to just forget about something that costs over $200, that's something I need to budget for, or set small amounts of money aside incrementally, where having a tentative date could ease that a little for lots of people
Try $500 with shipping.
Zefyr is still recovering from the OG groupbuy. Based on your posts, you are certainly desperate for a VE.A, but don't seem to have the funds. I am working (very slowly) on an acrylic case for the VE.A and will try to share on here once I confirm my design is A-OK.
Does anyone know where I can get a nice sata cable?
Gonna get some sleeve and try it myself. Seems easy from seeing how people did it on youtube. Thansk broDoes anyone know where I can get a nice sata cable?
You could just get any cable you like from a computer store and then buy some sleeve to customize it. I really like the MDPC-X sleeve, but there probably are others that also offer Sata sized sleeve.
If you don't want to make your own I'm sure Pexon offers a lot of options.
Would you be planning to run this special edition through your site? Also paypal works for me :)
And also, we are preparing special version of VE.A. without anodizing.
We are considering run a field test in early-adopter-like form.
Keep your interests on us, please :)
So I'm guessing we still have no clue when b-stock will be available?
seems you didn't see the email sign up. put email in. forget.
I would offer that some of us don't have the financial liberty to just forget about something that costs over $200, that's something I need to budget for, or set small amounts of money aside incrementally, where having a tentative date could ease that a little for lots of people
Try $500 with shipping.
Zefyr is still recovering from the OG groupbuy. Based on your posts, you are certainly desperate for a VE.A, but don't seem to have the funds. I am working (very slowly) on an acrylic case for the VE.A and will try to share on here once I confirm my design is A-OK.
Hey guys!
Sorry to keep you waiting so long.
B-stock is ready :)
We carefully checked quality again.
About 35 sets passed our B-class quality line.
(18 black, 8 grey, 6 silver)
Price will be 350USD, including black-titan-coated mounting plate.
No bare STS mounting plate option.
But we have no experience of direct GB.
Problem is money collecting.
So, quick question.
When attended in a GB, you got paypal e-mail invoice? or just sending budget?
And also, we are preparing special version of VE.A. without anodizing.
We are considering run a field test in early-adopter-like form.
Keep your interests on us, please :)
Hey guys!
Sorry to keep you waiting so long.
B-stock is ready :)
We carefully checked quality again.
About 35 sets passed our B-class quality line.
(18 black, 8 grey, 6 silver)
Price will be 350USD, including black-titan-coated mounting plate.
No bare STS mounting plate option.
Hey guys!
Sorry to keep you waiting so long.
B-stock is ready :)
We carefully checked quality again.
About 35 sets passed our B-class quality line.
(18 black, 8 grey, 6 silver)
Price will be 350USD, including black-titan-coated mounting plate.
No bare STS mounting plate option.
So just to clarify, we are getting:
"Base Kit Includes
Anodized CNC aluminum case (top / bottom)
CNC poly-carbonate frame
Steel switch plate
Screws
Bump-on feet
Vergo type.T-II PCB
VE.A marking plates
SATA cable
Mini USB cable"
?
Announcement from team oddforge
B-class stock GB schedule & process
- We will announce exact starting time at lease 48 hours before joining form opens. (time in KST, which is UTC+9 https://www.timeanddate.com/time/zones/kst (https://www.timeanddate.com/time/zones/kst))
- We will send you invoice within 24 hours, in order of GB form application.
- We will wait payment for 48 hours.
- If 48 hours exceeds, application will be canceled and and invoice will be avoided.
- We will charge shipping cost to you.
- We will charge paypal fee (3.9% + 0.3USD including shipping cost) to you.
- Kit price will be 349USD, includes 4 Aluminium parts, 2 Polycarbonate frames, 2 nameplates, PCB, bumpons, bolts, Black-titanium-coated switch mounting plate.
- We will ship package via EMS service with tracking number.
Thanks for your interest guys!
GB will be open within a week.
We are all set.
I guess the PCB only option is gone now?
I guess the PCB only option is gone now?
I guess the PCB only option is gone now?
PCB count is not that enough at this point.
I guess the PCB only option is gone now?
PCB count is not that enough at this point.
What kind of defects can we expect to see on the B-Stock versions?
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
I think they only wanted you to fill in the ones you wanted, not a 0 for those you don't want. Or at least I hope as that's what I did too with the black one :D
who is gonna do alps?
who is gonna do alps?
Nope.
cherry?
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
I think they only wanted you to fill in the ones you wanted, not a 0 for those you don't want. Or at least I hope as that's what I did too with the black one :D
Ah, I was not sure. I hope it is clear enough on the form. I'm sending zefyr a PM right now just in case. Also glad that the form came in an hour earlier than expected, likely due to Daylight Savings, because I have to get up for work tomorrow.
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
I think they only wanted you to fill in the ones you wanted, not a 0 for those you don't want. Or at least I hope as that's what I did too with the black one :D
Ah, I was not sure. I hope it is clear enough on the form. I'm sending zefyr a PM right now just in case. Also glad that the form came in an hour earlier than expected, likely due to Daylight Savings, because I have to get up for work tomorrow.
That form was open by accident.
That's why that form act like that.
I don't know why google form opened before trigger run.
We will accept your application, and your request about color option is confirmed.
Thanks for your high interest.
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
I think they only wanted you to fill in the ones you wanted, not a 0 for those you don't want. Or at least I hope as that's what I did too with the black one :D
Ah, I was not sure. I hope it is clear enough on the form. I'm sending zefyr a PM right now just in case. Also glad that the form came in an hour earlier than expected, likely due to Daylight Savings, because I have to get up for work tomorrow.
That form was open by accident.
That's why that form act like that.
I don't know why google form opened before trigger run.
We will accept your application, and your request about color option is confirmed.
Thanks for your high interest.
So to clarify, if we submitted we do not need to submit again, even though the form opened when it should not have?
Does the converted US times in the email take into account daylight savings?
EDIT: Also, what have people been using for spacebars on cherry profile keysets?
I have no idea about daylight saving offset.
How about try convert it?
Exact time will be "Nov 9 14:00 KST" that's all.
Just filled the form, though it would not let me put 0 down for the Gray option (I just wanted 1 Silver kit). I left a note stating that I only want one B-stock kit and prefer silver to gray. If silver is unavailable, however, I'll take the gray (or black, if gray is also gone).
I think they only wanted you to fill in the ones you wanted, not a 0 for those you don't want. Or at least I hope as that's what I did too with the black one :D
Ah, I was not sure. I hope it is clear enough on the form. I'm sending zefyr a PM right now just in case. Also glad that the form came in an hour earlier than expected, likely due to Daylight Savings, because I have to get up for work tomorrow.
That form was open by accident.
That's why that form act like that.
I don't know why google form opened before trigger run.
We will accept your application, and your request about color option is confirmed.
Thanks for your high interest.
So to clarify, if we submitted we do not need to submit again, even though the form opened when it should not have?
Yes, unless you want to change your option or quantity.
(Yours will be processed as silver as you noted)
I think you have me confused with Slash Emperor, he requested silver and I requested black when the form opened previously.
I think you have me confused with Slash Emperor, he requested silver and I requested black when the form opened previously.
Nope, yours is black.
Well I submitted. Kind of upset that I'm here on time but people got access early. :(
Hope I still get what I want.
Well I submitted. Kind of upset that I'm here on time but people got access early. :(
Hope I still get what I want.
To be fair, I think it was only two of us that stumbled in early and got lucky.
Well I submitted. Kind of upset that I'm here on time but people got access early. :(
Hope I still get what I want.
To be fair, I think it was only two of us that stumbled in early and got lucky.
Well I submitted. Kind of upset that I'm here on time but people got access early. :(
Hope I still get what I want.
To be fair, I think it was only two of us that stumbled in early and got lucky.
I'm okay with that. You two were around and checking a whole hour early. I'm sure you two would have submitted your forms before I did.
To say otherwise would be to be petty.
Well I submitted. Kind of upset that I'm here on time but people got access early. :(
Hope I still get what I want.
To be fair, I think it was only two of us that stumbled in early and got lucky.
I'm okay with that. You two were around and checking a whole hour early. I'm sure you two would have submitted your forms before I did.
To say otherwise would be to be petty.
Please, do not make this worse...
We are really sorry about our mistake.
Application count is halted now.
There's many stocks left.
I'm not making it worse. :P
I was saying I'm okay with all outcomes. :)
Including this one.
Will we only know if we made it when the invoice comes?
I still have not gotten a PayPal invoice? I just wanted to check and be sure that I am in line for one of these!
I still have not gotten a PayPal invoice? I just wanted to check and be sure that I am in line for one of these!
"We will send you invoice within 24 hours, in order of GB form application."
It's also 1:30 AM in Korea right now, so I wouldn't expect an invoice for the next little bit anyway.
Will we only know if we made it when the invoice comes?
All application will be accepted so far.
Stock count is enough.
Except silver it is OOS now, however, JDragon you are in.
Thanks for making B stock available. though I am surprised it is not sold out immediately, given so many people missed the original drop.
I was inspired by the LZ ErGO and made a quick CAD design of what could be done with a VE.A pcb. A split acrylic VE.A case is quite difficult to design when accounting for kerf. Extremely annoying to get the two halves fit together nicely as the laser cutting machine slows down around corners and cuts a wider line.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BYSHp6k.jpg)
Very cool, glad to help :)
Is there a timeline on shipping, since this is b.stock I assume you have them on hand. No rush just curious so I can prepare the supplies I need to put it together.
Crap! Forgot to put this on my calendar and i totally forgot so i missed out :(There might be black left? you can try submitting the form
Crap! Forgot to put this on my calendar and i totally forgot so i missed out :(
Hi! geeks,
I`m ildustry a member of oddforge. Nice to meet you guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
We are sending invoice and checking your order and payment.
Silver is sold out.
Gray is 1 left.
Black is 9 left.
We already finish our VE.A`s pakages.
But we must wait payment for 48 hours for all you guys after that we will check your address and make EMS paper for shipping.
We expect to ship on next Tuesday 11/15/2016 as early.
I`ll tell you if the schedule is changed.
Thank you!
B-stock shipped!
We shipped out today :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BXSXKp2.jpg)
You can track status at following link.
https://trace.epost.go.kr//xtts/tt/epost/ems/ems_eng.jsp
Your tracking number is set on your PP invoice.
Wow, shipping was fast! Unfortunately I was at school so missed the mailman :(
Wow, shipping was fast! Unfortunately I was at school so missed the mailman :(
I should see mine Monday according to tracking. Pretty pumped about it.
Got mine today and was so hyped to start building it, got everything ready then realized that the switches were still with zeal's gb :( rip my heart.
However when I was testing my LED's I did notice that none of the "lock" LED's would light up, and neither would the top two macro keys? Everything else seems to be fine though!
Wish I had some resistors then :/ guess I got time to order some though.Got mine today and was so hyped to start building it, got everything ready then realized that the switches were still with zeal's gb :( rip my heart.
However when I was testing my LED's I did notice that none of the "lock" LED's would light up, and neither would the top two macro keys? Everything else seems to be fine though!
I don't know what's up with the macro keys, but the lock light LEDs all need resistors added.
We have a few blacks and ONE gray left.
I just found out that VE.A does not have NKRO and is only 1+6KRO, will this be upgraded in the future?
I just found out that VE.A does not have NKRO and is only 1+6KRO, will this be upgraded in the future?
Most Winkeyless style board able to run ps2avr support NKRO with PS2 and 6KRO with USB. At what point have you ever needed more than 6KRO?
I just found out that VE.A does not have NKRO and is only 1+6KRO, will this be upgraded in the future?
Most Winkeyless style board able to run ps2avr support NKRO with PS2 and 6KRO with USB. At what point have you ever needed more than 6KRO?
I am trying to learn a bit Stenography on a modern keyboard, still don't know if any chord will exceed 6 keys.
So that means if I can convert the VE.A back to PS/2 with an adapter, there can be NKRO? However, my main computer is a laptop: without any PS/2 connection.
To be exact, they wrote "6+1 Key rollover" on their website:
At the specification below: http://oddforge.com/product/vea_information (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_information)
I just found out that VE.A does not have NKRO and is only 1+6KRO, will this be upgraded in the future?
Most Winkeyless style boards running ps2avr will support NKRO with PS2 and 6KRO with USB. At what point have you ever needed more than 6KRO?
1+6RKO is that one +'s keyboard for the one plus 2? T_T
oh goooooooooood it seems that i'm a bit late for this b-sale stock. but i've submitted my forms, if there's still a stock available pls pls pls invoice me lololol
i love ya zefyrrrr
oh goooooooooood it seems that i'm a bit late for this b-sale stock. but i've submitted my forms, if there's still a stock available pls pls pls invoice me lololol
i love ya zefyrrrr
Last I saw there was still stock, so I think you're good!
OK, we see now you guys got yours :)
We hope you enjoy it!
It's almost gone now.
We have a few blacks and ONE gray left.
https://goo.gl/forms/3vMzfTmYTQvxG3zq1
OK, we see now you guys got yours :)
We hope you enjoy it!
It's almost gone now.
We have a few blacks and ONE gray left.
https://goo.gl/forms/3vMzfTmYTQvxG3zq1
Is it possible to order with an acrylic tenting stand?
OK, we see now you guys got yours :)
We hope you enjoy it!
It's almost gone now.
We have a few blacks and ONE gray left.
https://goo.gl/forms/3vMzfTmYTQvxG3zq1
Is it possible to order with an acrylic tenting stand?
No, but i remember that he give us the cad file, somewhere...
OK, we see now you guys got yours :)
We hope you enjoy it!
It's almost gone now.
We have a few blacks and ONE gray left.
https://goo.gl/forms/3vMzfTmYTQvxG3zq1
Is it possible to order with an acrylic tenting stand?
No, but i remember that he give us the cad file, somewhere...
Click on the kbdlab link on the Oddforge VE.A resources page (http://oddforge.com/product/vea_resource). Its written in Korean so you need to ctrl+f "dxf" to find the file download.
use ctrl + eyeballs
Snagging that one last gray one. Hope it's still there.
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothing
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothing
All good, I figure this way I have plenty of extras in case I lose one... or twenty.
OR, you can get 7 more VE.As.Can't argue with that logic.
I think this is the best way.
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothing
All good, I figure this way I have plenty of extras in case I lose one... or twenty.
OR, you can get 7 more VE.As.
I think this is the best way.
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothing
All good, I figure this way I have plenty of extras in case I lose one... or twenty.
OR, you can get 7 more VE.As.
I think this is the best way.
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/TiQkx2I.jpg)
All good, I figure this way I have plenty of extras in case I lose one... or twenty.
OR, you can get 7 more VE.As.
I think this is the best way.
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
if you only need three I can mail you some for nothing
All good, I figure this way I have plenty of extras in case I lose one... or twenty.
OR, you can get 7 more VE.As.
I think this is the best way.
one ve.a are enough to make my wallet cry.. but now, 7??
technically the b stock I ordered is my third :-X
Hello, how are the packages marked (value) regarding customs fees?
Thanks in advance! :)
Can someone help me w/ lock LED resistors? Would these be appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/PANASONIC-Thick-Film-Chip-Resistor-910-Ohm-5-0402-50V-100mW-SMD-NEW-Qty-50-/201699328639?hash=item2ef637827f:g:WGAAAOSwpDdVCw-H
can anyone tell me if bootmapper supports lock switches?
can anyone tell me if bootmapper supports lock switches?
If you short the Lock LED connection, I'm assuming yes.
On my VE.A they're not shorted but the Bootmapper client does have an option to pick which mapped key has which lock status. It's grayed out, though.
The VE.A made it into the DTA finals this year:
https://deskthority.net/final-vote-f101/best-modern-keyboard-or-company-t15248.html (https://deskthority.net/final-vote-f101/best-modern-keyboard-or-company-t15248.html)
Would be great to see you post over there and say Hi to your fans :)
B-stock is sold out.
Thanks for your interests.
For those interested at PCB,
We do not have enough PCB left.
So, PCB only GB is gone.
We have no better words for apologize.
Just hoping you could understand us.
Thanks to you all!
We will be back soon with brand new design!
We will be back soon with brand new design!
We will be back soon with brand new design!
How soon? I want to save up for this! :P
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
While I appreciate your concern, I am going to travel with it and would love some ideas towards protecting it while I do
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
While I appreciate your concern, I am going to travel with it and would love some ideas towards protecting it while I do
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
While I appreciate your concern, I am going to travel with it and would love some ideas towards protecting it while I do
Good man...... what's the point in spending the money if you don't truly get use out of it (wherever you go). I appreciate customs and keeping them in tact, but I believe in putting all my boards to great use.
well I have a pelican case for a TKL, but I only used it once.. seems kinda risky to constantly travel, but yeah that's your best and pretty much only option worth doing
Any case/carrying recommendations guys?
don't travel with customs, extremely hard to sell it if it's damaged greatly.
While I appreciate your concern, I am going to travel with it and would love some ideas towards protecting it while I do
Good man...... what's the point in spending the money if you don't truly get use out of it (wherever you go). I appreciate customs and keeping them in tact, but I believe in putting all my boards to great use.
well I have a pelican case for a TKL, but I only used it once.. seems kinda risky to constantly travel, but yeah that's your best and pretty much only option worth doing
I use EVA case when carrying.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281163032643?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
i've made my own custom case for carrying a split keyboard like ve.a /ergo pro, but it hasn't come yet...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
i've made my own custom case for carrying a split keyboard like ve.a /ergo pro, but it hasn't come yet...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
I would take some pics and post them but my VE.A still sitting here; un-assembled. Waiting on Zeal stabs.
Personally would be using cherry profiles on VE.A. After trying SA profiles, does not feels as good to type on, maybe because zealios wobble too much.
i've made my own custom case for carrying a split keyboard like ve.a /ergo pro, but it hasn't come yet...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
I would take some pics and post them but my VE.A still sitting here; un-assembled. Waiting on Zeal stabs.
Personally would be using cherry profiles on VE.A. After trying SA profiles, does not feels as good to type on, maybe because zealios wobble too much.
hmm, i guess you're right. the reason that i'm asking for the photo is because i was thinking that the SA profile would be too high for VE.A's slim case..
yes, cherry profile are great. i'm using my spare DCS Bumblebee right now, waiting for any good GMK that will (maybe) eventually show...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
For what its worth, I have heard that newest round of zealios fixed the wobble issue.
i've made my own custom case for carrying a split keyboard like ve.a /ergo pro, but it hasn't come yet...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
I would take some pics and post them but my VE.A still sitting here; un-assembled. Waiting on Zeal stabs.
Personally would be using cherry profiles on VE.A. After trying SA profiles, does not feels as good to type on, maybe because zealios wobble too much.
For what its worth, I have heard that newest round of zealios fixed the wobble issue.
i've made my own custom case for carrying a split keyboard like ve.a /ergo pro, but it hasn't come yet...
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
I would take some pics and post them but my VE.A still sitting here; un-assembled. Waiting on Zeal stabs.
Personally would be using cherry profiles on VE.A. After trying SA profiles, does not feels as good to type on, maybe because zealios wobble too much.
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
Here you goShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DAvXZyb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vI3kfIQ.jpg)
Personally, I wouldn't use a VE.A with any other keycap profile.
I have heard about that. Seems a little late for the fix. Next purchase probably will be a topre. Maybe wait till Oddforge's next design, then consider getting more zealios or mod switches.
I have heard about that. Seems a little late for the fix. Next purchase probably will be a topre. Maybe wait till Oddforge's next design, then consider getting more zealios or mod switches.
If wobble is your issue, nothing is going to ever mechanically beat Topre.
But the latest round of Zealios does fix the wobble problem from my experience with a switch tester pack. That said, after using Clears for 6 months, I can't get over just how much bumpiness/scratchiness is in a Zealio. But that's not a new issue.
I have heard about that. Seems a little late for the fix. Next purchase probably will be a topre. Maybe wait till Oddforge's next design, then consider getting more zealios or mod switches.
If wobble is your issue, nothing is going to ever mechanically beat Topre.
But the latest round of Zealios does fix the wobble problem from my experience with a switch tester pack. That said, after using Clears for 6 months, I can't get over just how much bumpiness/scratchiness is in a Zealio. But that's not a new issue.
After getting into Alps, I am not the biggest fan of Zealios (or their price) but bumpiness?? and scratchiness are not an issue, especially compared to unlubed MX clears.
sorry for changing the topic, but;
do anyone here have SA keycaps that they could use on their VE.A? i was considering Dasher Dancer but i want to see how VE.A goes with SA Keycaps set..
a photo would be great :p
thanks!
Here you goShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/DAvXZyb.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/vI3kfIQ.jpg)
Personally, I wouldn't use a VE.A with any other keycap profile.
thank you! but i guess i'm right, for my hand that SA profile is just too high, i have to use another palm rest if i want to use SA profile..
Is it possible to have a different backlight color for each hand? I was able to do it but seems to be just a bug, it went to normal when rebooted.
Is it possible to have a different backlight color for each hand? I was able to do it but seems to be just a bug, it went to normal when rebooted.
Just get two VE.A, set one color each and then arrange them in a way that you only type on one half of each VE.A.
Another problem solved with money!
Is it possible to have a different backlight color for each hand? I was able to do it but seems to be just a bug, it went to normal when rebooted.
Just get two VE.A, set one color each and then arrange them in a way that you only type on one half of each VE.A.
Another problem solved with money!
But having two VE.A is a BRILLIANT idea.
Unfortunately, there's no stock left anymore.
Another problem solved with money!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pzziFLp.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5ud1AGV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZsuvDZv.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZOzPcKA.jpg)
:))
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Resistors if those LEDs are fo the locks on the top left, and that would be it unless you also want in-switch LEDs. If you want the LEDs to match the default brightness of the in-switch LEDs, you'll need 910 ohm resistors. Or, if you're not using the in-switch LEDs, you could just steal a couple from switch resistor spots for your lock LEDs.
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Resistors if those LEDs are fo the locks on the top left, and that would be it unless you also want in-switch LEDs. If you want the LEDs to match the default brightness of the in-switch LEDs, you'll need 910 ohm resistors. Or, if you're not using the in-switch LEDs, you could just steal a couple from switch resistor spots for your lock LEDs.
Yes those are for the 3 lock leds! I think I will get those 3 extra 910 Ohm resistors just in case I want to install some in-switch leds.
Thanks a lot for the quick reply mate! :thumb:
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Some lube/grease for the stabs and, depending on your switch of choice, some o-rings.
If your OCD level is high enough, lube and sticker your switches too.
Perhaps a different SATA cable as well. I got one of these : http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
Finally, don't forget about a custom sheathed USB cable to go with your chosen theme :)
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Some lube/grease for the stabs and, depending on your switch of choice, some o-rings.
If your OCD level is high enough, lube and sticker your switches too.
Perhaps a different SATA cable as well. I got one of these : http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
Finally, don't forget about a custom sheathed USB cable to go with your chosen theme :)
Thanks for your reply! ;D
What lube is used for switches and what grease is used for the stabs? Also where can I buy some? :confused:
Thinking about getting a custom sheathed SATA cable from PexonPCs...
Hello, I'm going to assemble my B-stock kit soon and have a question: What do I need besides cables, soldering equipment, stabs, switches, keycaps and 1.8mm leds (quantity:3)?
Thanks for your help in advance!!! :)
Some lube/grease for the stabs and, depending on your switch of choice, some o-rings.
If your OCD level is high enough, lube and sticker your switches too.
Perhaps a different SATA cable as well. I got one of these : http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
Finally, don't forget about a custom sheathed USB cable to go with your chosen theme :)
Thanks for your reply! ;D
What lube is used for switches and what grease is used for the stabs? Also where can I buy some? :confused:
Thinking about getting a custom sheathed SATA cable from PexonPCs...
I just use PTFE grease for my stabilizers. For the switches I use the same stuff I use on the chain of my mountain bike.
I think the main thing to watch out for is the solvent in the lube/grease so it doesn't dissolve any of the plastics.
did anyone have a suggestion for mounting tape for the badge plates?
did anyone have a suggestion for mounting tape for the badge plates?
I just used a cheap 3m double-sided my wife picked up from a craft store for photos. It's working great so far and I can't even move the plates.
like from hobby lobby or AC Moore? I should check there, had zero luck at walmart, lowes, home depot. Stuff was too thick.
did anyone have a suggestion for mounting tape for the badge plates?
I just used a cheap 3m double-sided my wife picked up from a craft store for photos. It's working great so far and I can't even move the plates.
like from hobby lobby or AC Moore? I should check there, had zero luck at walmart, lowes, home depot. Stuff was too thick.
Uhh...pretty sure it was from Joann's, but don't quote me on that.
we got those too. Thanks
Finally got around to building mine (finally have time off from work, my zeal parts came in), though spread through 2 days cause I'd have to go out every once in awhile. I ended up installing the switches on the morning of the first day I started the project, built the tenting kit on the first night, then soldered and final assembly on the 2nd day.
I went with a very non-standard layout of a 1.5u backspace above the Enter key, so finding keycaps is going to be a challenge (but I can't go back after using the TrueFox whitefox layout)
I installed mine with 62g Zealios, Zeal's transparent screw in stabs with gold wire, and zealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hnJEbmb.jpg)
Assembling the tenting kit was much easier once I laid out all the parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzeql5q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gjWDbCf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unY02N.jpg)
Cleaning all the flux from the board after soldering switches and LEDs, also installed the lock LED indicators (num lock = blue, caps lock = green, scroll lock = red)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/On6Yqra.jpg)
Testing the LEDsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xo5GQXA.jpg)
Installing the ZealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mLkzzz1.jpg)
Next step for me will be to order a replacement custom sleeved mini USB-b cable, sleeved SATA cable, and keycaps (I wasn't very satisfied with the coloring on the keycaps provided by Massdrop).
Thanks Zefyr for putting together such a great kit.
(Also thank you Zeal if you happen to come across this thread as well)
Beautiful work. You should check the LED on your X key. It looks like it's dead. :(
Finally got around to building mine (finally have time off from work, my zeal parts came in), though spread through 2 days cause I'd have to go out every once in awhile. I ended up installing the switches on the morning of the first day I started the project, built the tenting kit on the first night, then soldered and final assembly on the 2nd day.
I went with a very non-standard layout of a 1.5u backspace above the Enter key, so finding keycaps is going to be a challenge (but I can't go back after using the TrueFox whitefox layout)
I installed mine with 62g Zealios, Zeal's transparent screw in stabs with gold wire, and zealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hnJEbmb.jpg)
Assembling the tenting kit was much easier once I laid out all the parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzeql5q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gjWDbCf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unY02N.jpg)
Cleaning all the flux from the board after soldering switches and LEDs, also installed the lock LED indicators (num lock = blue, caps lock = green, scroll lock = red)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/On6Yqra.jpg)
Testing the LEDsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xo5GQXA.jpg)
Installing the ZealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mLkzzz1.jpg)
Next step for me will be to order a replacement custom sleeved mini USB-b cable, sleeved SATA cable, and keycaps (I wasn't very satisfied with the coloring on the keycaps provided by Massdrop).
Thanks Zefyr for putting together such a great kit.
(Also thank you Zeal if you happen to come across this thread as well)
Dude, awesome little build log you provided here.
Ppl don't understand how helpful the little tips are for others when they post them!! So thank you!
enjoy it!
Finally got around to building mine (finally have time off from work, my zeal parts came in), though spread through 2 days cause I'd have to go out every once in awhile. I ended up installing the switches on the morning of the first day I started the project, built the tenting kit on the first night, then soldered and final assembly on the 2nd day.
I went with a very non-standard layout of a 1.5u backspace above the Enter key, so finding keycaps is going to be a challenge (but I can't go back after using the TrueFox whitefox layout)
I installed mine with 62g Zealios, Zeal's transparent screw in stabs with gold wire, and zealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hnJEbmb.jpg)
Assembling the tenting kit was much easier once I laid out all the parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzeql5q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gjWDbCf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unY02N.jpg)
Cleaning all the flux from the board after soldering switches and LEDs, also installed the lock LED indicators (num lock = blue, caps lock = green, scroll lock = red)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/On6Yqra.jpg)
Testing the LEDsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xo5GQXA.jpg)
Installing the ZealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mLkzzz1.jpg)
Next step for me will be to order a replacement custom sleeved mini USB-b cable, sleeved SATA cable, and keycaps (I wasn't very satisfied with the coloring on the keycaps provided by Massdrop).
Thanks Zefyr for putting together such a great kit.
(Also thank you Zeal if you happen to come across this thread as well)
Is there anything else you need to do to make the lock indicator LEDs to work? Mine doesn't, I'm afraid I got the polarity reversed..The polarity of the resistors dont matter. There are two pads that you have to bridge for each indicator.
ThanksFinally got around to building mine (finally have time off from work, my zeal parts came in), though spread through 2 days cause I'd have to go out every once in awhile. I ended up installing the switches on the morning of the first day I started the project, built the tenting kit on the first night, then soldered and final assembly on the 2nd day.
I went with a very non-standard layout of a 1.5u backspace above the Enter key, so finding keycaps is going to be a challenge (but I can't go back after using the TrueFox whitefox layout)
I installed mine with 62g Zealios, Zeal's transparent screw in stabs with gold wire, and zealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hnJEbmb.jpg)
Assembling the tenting kit was much easier once I laid out all the parts.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nzeql5q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gjWDbCf.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2unY02N.jpg)
Cleaning all the flux from the board after soldering switches and LEDs, also installed the lock LED indicators (num lock = blue, caps lock = green, scroll lock = red)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/On6Yqra.jpg)
Testing the LEDsShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/xo5GQXA.jpg)
Installing the ZealenciosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/mLkzzz1.jpg)
Next step for me will be to order a replacement custom sleeved mini USB-b cable, sleeved SATA cable, and keycaps (I wasn't very satisfied with the coloring on the keycaps provided by Massdrop).
Thanks Zefyr for putting together such a great kit.
(Also thank you Zeal if you happen to come across this thread as well)
Such a beautiful build man! Really cool to see it documented like this.
I have the pads shorted for full led on mine and on the configuration app I set the Num, Caps, and Scroll Lock indicators to be indicators if that makes senseIs there anything else you need to do to make the lock indicator LEDs to work? Mine doesn't, I'm afraid I got the polarity reversed..The polarity of the resistors dont matter. There are two pads that you have to bridge for each indicator.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
Is there anything else you need to do to make the lock indicator LEDs to work? Mine doesn't, I'm afraid I got the polarity reversed..The polarity of the resistors dont matter. There are two pads that you have to bridge for each indicator.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk
someone help me pleaseI'm not sure I'll be able to help, but do you have a pic of your board and the soldering so we can take a look? When you bridged the indicator points, which points did you bridge?
I reflowed everything, and now all the lock leds are flashing? what does this mean
Beautiful work. You should check the LED on your X key. It looks like it's dead. :(
ah good catch, I completely missed that, I'll have to check on it, thanks
was a firmware issue held down windows key and flashed from my other veas downloaded firmware works
here is it! please enjoy!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
was a firmware issue held down windows key and flashed from my other veas downloaded firmware works
cool, glad to hear everything is fine, congrats :)
I did reflow all the IC's and connectors two. this B stock PCB looked a bit shoddy. but thank you, I will post a build log soon. It's very special.
here is it! please enjoy!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
here is it! please enjoy!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
Beautiful work. You should check the LED on your X key. It looks like it's dead. :(
ah good catch, I completely missed that, I'll have to check on it, thanks
here is it! please enjoy!
https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/5lhzxk/skcm_brown_alps_vea_build_mont_blanc_level/
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4KQ4Yu.jpg)
I ended up slapping on a set of GeekKeys Blank PBT keycaps I had lying around on because I wanted to use this so bad. Although it kind of works out since the blank 2.75 shift key is perfect for the right space bar.
I have this same setup at work but with an Ergodox and occasionally I find myself trying to use my thumbs on a non-existent Ergodox thumb cluster :-[ :))
You're all making me jealous. :PThanks and *hi-five* :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4KQ4Yu.jpg)
I ended up slapping on a set of GeekKeys Blank PBT keycaps I had lying around on because I wanted to use this so bad. Although it kind of works out since the blank 2.75 shift key is perfect for the right space bar.
I have this same setup at work but with an Ergodox and occasionally I find myself trying to use my thumbs on a non-existent Ergodox thumb cluster :-[ :))
Beautiful and congrats on the fix! G900 master-race! *hi-five*
You're all making me jealous. :PShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4KQ4Yu.jpg)
I ended up slapping on a set of GeekKeys Blank PBT keycaps I had lying around on because I wanted to use this so bad. Although it kind of works out since the blank 2.75 shift key is perfect for the right space bar.
I have this same setup at work but with an Ergodox and occasionally I find myself trying to use my thumbs on a non-existent Ergodox thumb cluster :-[ :))
Beautiful and congrats on the fix! G900 master-race! *hi-five*
You're all making me jealous. :PThanks and *hi-five* :thumb:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/K4KQ4Yu.jpg)
I ended up slapping on a set of GeekKeys Blank PBT keycaps I had lying around on because I wanted to use this so bad. Although it kind of works out since the blank 2.75 shift key is perfect for the right space bar.
I have this same setup at work but with an Ergodox and occasionally I find myself trying to use my thumbs on a non-existent Ergodox thumb cluster :-[ :))
Beautiful and congrats on the fix! G900 master-race! *hi-five*
Pardon my ignorance, but is there a place one can purchase a new VE.A keyboard and/or kit?
just finished mine over the long weekend. probably my most colorful buildShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/T2Ri9UR.jpg)
just finished mine over the long weekend. probably my most colorful buildShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/T2Ri9UR.jpg)
VE.A envy here.
The Stormtrooper matches well with the GMK CMYK mods for the matching black legends - never understand why some would like to match GMK Dolch kit with CMYK mods or anything with black legends.
Pardon my ignorance, but is there a place one can purchase a new VE.A keyboard and/or kit?
Unfortunately, you can only hope to score one on /r/mechmarket for now --
The main GB was ran on Massdrop, which has since ended
&
B-stock units (extras) were all sold off shortly after the GB.
Zefyr has alluded to the possibility that more keyboards will be coming from oddforge, but only time will tell what
they have in store!
Goodluck.
Finally finished building mine <3 <3 <3 Completely in love with it, and the zealio's/zealencio combo literally the best typing experience I've ever had by far! Wish I had picked up two now, one for home, one for work!
Only issues are that I messed up on the left bottom row so the keys don't fit perfectly (but I use caps for ctrl and rarely press windows so it wont effect typing just A E S T H E T I C) and I haven't bought resistors for the lock keys, speaking of which, I'm having a hard time understanding the guide on how to make the lock keys full on, can anyone explain it in a more simple way, like what exactly do I need to do to get my lock keys working and always on?
I don't have a fancy camera or lighting so I only really took the one picture, feel free to ask for more/ask questions!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ag8uqTC.jpg)
3. Select Lock LED Mode
Near Locks switches, you can find F[][][]L pattern. This is for LED mode selection.
When F[][] pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Full-LED mode.
When [][]L pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Lock-LED mode.
Finally finished building mine <3 <3 <3 Completely in love with it, and the zealio's/zealencio combo literally the best typing experience I've ever had by far! Wish I had picked up two now, one for home, one for work!
Only issues are that I messed up on the left bottom row so the keys don't fit perfectly (but I use caps for ctrl and rarely press windows so it wont effect typing just A E S T H E T I C) and I haven't bought resistors for the lock keys, speaking of which, I'm having a hard time understanding the guide on how to make the lock keys full on, can anyone explain it in a more simple way, like what exactly do I need to do to get my lock keys working and always on?
I don't have a fancy camera or lighting so I only really took the one picture, feel free to ask for more/ask questions!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ag8uqTC.jpg)
- Black VE.A
- R4 78g Zealio Switches
- Zealencio Silencing Clips
- Zeal Transparent Screw-in Stabs
- GMK Hyperfuse Keyset
- Blue LEDs
- Homemade Sleeved SATA Cable (will be sleeving USB the same once parts come in)
From the assembly guide:Quote3. Select Lock LED Mode
Near Locks switches, you can find F[][][]L pattern. This is for LED mode selection.
When F[][] pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Full-LED mode.
When [][]L pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Lock-LED mode.
So, when you're looking at the leads, you see F[][][]L
For the full LEDs like you're asking, you want to bridge the first two with solder F[X][X][]L
I use an LED leg scrap to do mine and soldered at both ends to make it look a little cleaner.
Also, right there with you....really wish I had bought a second for work.
Finally finished building mine <3 <3 <3 Completely in love with it, and the zealio's/zealencio combo literally the best typing experience I've ever had by far! Wish I had picked up two now, one for home, one for work!
Only issues are that I messed up on the left bottom row so the keys don't fit perfectly (but I use caps for ctrl and rarely press windows so it wont effect typing just A E S T H E T I C) and I haven't bought resistors for the lock keys, speaking of which, I'm having a hard time understanding the guide on how to make the lock keys full on, can anyone explain it in a more simple way, like what exactly do I need to do to get my lock keys working and always on?
I don't have a fancy camera or lighting so I only really took the one picture, feel free to ask for more/ask questions!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ag8uqTC.jpg)
- Black VE.A
- R4 78g Zealio Switches
- Zealencio Silencing Clips
- Zeal Transparent Screw-in Stabs
- GMK Hyperfuse Keyset
- Blue LEDs
- Homemade Sleeved SATA Cable (will be sleeving USB the same once parts come in)
From the assembly guide:Quote3. Select Lock LED Mode
Near Locks switches, you can find F[][][]L pattern. This is for LED mode selection.
When F[][] pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Full-LED mode.
When [][]L pattern is shorted(connected), LED will act as Lock-LED mode.
So, when you're looking at the leads, you see F[][][]L
For the full LEDs like you're asking, you want to bridge the first two with solder F[X][X][]L
I use an LED leg scrap to do mine and soldered at both ends to make it look a little cleaner.
Also, right there with you....really wish I had bought a second for work.
probably going to sound dumb here but don't want to mess anything up, when you say bridge the first two (in your case) you're saying you soldered a bit of LED leg scrap to the first two pads right? I'll give that a shot once I find somewhere that I can buy 3 resistors for the board!
Not dumb at all. You paid a lot for the kit and you want to be safe, I understand. Correct. You could just solder between the two, but I didn't want to risk damaging the PCB with too much heat, that's why I used the LED leg.
Sorry if I missed this, but couldn't find it in the thread or the documentation online - what type of aluminum alloy is used in the case?
probably 6061
Not dumb at all. You paid a lot for the kit and you want to be safe, I understand. Correct. You could just solder between the two, but I didn't want to risk damaging the PCB with too much heat, that's why I used the LED leg.
Thanks for the help :)
Thanks guys!
Not dumb at all. You paid a lot for the kit and you want to be safe, I understand. Correct. You could just solder between the two, but I didn't want to risk damaging the PCB with too much heat, that's why I used the LED leg.
Thanks for the help :)Thanks guys!
Ah, it was A long and lazy weekend :) We all had some schedules.
Thanks guys answering questions behalf of oddforge team.
Really appreciated for it!
Fair enough.
Theres not the option of generating the PCB and related things myself?
Provided it is even a possibilty.
Alternatively, where are the MD and GB announced? here? id like to not have to just keep monitoring for waiting for this particular keyboard.
Guess Ill have to look for something else as well.
Fair enough.
Theres not the option of generating the PCB and related things myself?
Alternatively, where are the MD and GB announced? here? id like to not have to just keep monitoring for waiting for this particular keyboard.
Guess Ill have to look for something else as well.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2xLpWVg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gdEwGYE.jpg)
It's a process ... but I'm almost there ... :p
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2xLpWVg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gdEwGYE.jpg)
It's a process ... but I'm almost there ... :p
Looking good! I ordered some Holtite from one of the GB that "Keys of kings" did last Nov. After sending me a shipping notice. He cancelled my order and after a month of waiting, I went back to the site to check on the progress because I have not received the package. I notice my order was being refunded. I emailed the guy asking about it, he then refunded me. Being very vague about the reason why he cancelled my order. Pretty shady if you ask me.
Too bad, if I were to order those hot swap holtite from the site myself, cost would be close to double the price of GB.
My VE.A still sitting there in pieces... Hopefully someone will organise another GB for holtites hot swap sockets sometime soon.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2xLpWVg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gdEwGYE.jpg)
It's a process ... but I'm almost there ... :p
Looking good! I ordered some Holtite from one of the GB that "Keys of kings" did last Nov. After sending me a shipping notice. He cancelled my order and after a month of waiting, I went back to the site to check on the progress because I have not received the package. I notice my order was being refunded. I emailed the guy asking about it, he then refunded me. Being very vague about the reason why he cancelled my order. Pretty shady if you ask me.
Too bad, if I were to order those hot swap holtite from the site myself, cost would be close to double the price of GB.
My VE.A still sitting there in pieces... Hopefully someone will organise another GB for holtites hot swap sockets sometime soon.
There's one Holtites GB going on right now, perhaps you can pm the OP of that thread.
I'm also aware of that VE.A has a good fit for this mod. But I perhaps want to go for an Alps VE.A build.
I'm located in the EU so I'm pretty interested in this..
Not sure about caps, or switches, but if I can get the rest First then I assume I can buy switches and caps afterwards, and not only from the gb?
I'm located in the EU so I'm pretty interested in this..
Not sure about caps, or switches, but if I can get the rest First then I assume I can buy switches and caps afterwards, and not only from the gb?
VE.A is a kit, it doesn't come with switches or caps.
There's no GB at the moment unfortunately.
For anyone doing the Holtite mod, how did you handle keys such as Caps Lock or some of the bottom row keys where the sockets won't fit - just solder those specific switches in?
For anyone doing the Holtite mod, how did you handle keys such as Caps Lock or some of the bottom row keys where the sockets won't fit - just solder those specific switches in?
I saw several people use plain ol' SIP sockets for the lock LEDs.
For anyone doing the Holtite mod, how did you handle keys such as Caps Lock or some of the bottom row keys where the sockets won't fit - just solder those specific switches in?
I saw several people use plain ol' SIP sockets for the lock LEDs.
Ah I meant the actual keys themselves - the hole in the PCB seems to be large enough to accommodate the switch pin but not a holtite socket, unless I'm doing something wrong?
Thanks everyone!
Will just solder in those few switches, shouldn't be too much of a pain to desolder if I want to switch out the switches.
I'm currently looking into getting my B stock kit powder coated and was thinking about leaving the screws in so the threads don't get powder coated - anyone got any better ideas? Worried that the powder coating would fill in the screw heads causing me to be unable to remove them, so was going to put some tape over them but then the powder coating will miss some spots unless I get the tape over the screw heads exactly.
I'm currently looking into getting my B stock kit powder coated and was thinking about leaving the screws in so the threads don't get powder coated - anyone got any better ideas? Worried that the powder coating would fill in the screw heads causing me to be unable to remove them, so was going to put some tape over them but then the powder coating will miss some spots unless I get the tape over the screw heads exactly.
I'm currently looking into getting my B stock kit powder coated and was thinking about leaving the screws in so the threads don't get powder coated - anyone got any better ideas? Worried that the powder coating would fill in the screw heads causing me to be unable to remove them, so was going to put some tape over them but then the powder coating will miss some spots unless I get the tape over the screw heads exactly.
I've done some powder coating. Anyone competent will plug holes like that so isn't a problem.
If you do tape anything, you need to use thermal tape that can handle the temperatures - again, anyone who does this professionally should have it on hand. They may charge you a fee for masking, especially if it is fiddly.
You could always have it Cerakoted, too.
Edit: Beaten to the punch.
Thanks, I'm in the Bay Area also - do you have any recommendations for good places? The place I've been talking to at the moment seems sort of hesitant (and didn't even suggest plugs or anything, which I had to Google myself).
I also tried to look up the differences between powder coating and cerakoting and couldn't figure out if there's a strong reason to go one or the other for a keyboard that will see mainly desk use. Any expertise that you can offer there?
Really appreciate the help.
Thanks, I'm in the Bay Area also - do you have any recommendations for good places? The place I've been talking to at the moment seems sort of hesitant (and didn't even suggest plugs or anything, which I had to Google myself).
I actually tried two different local places, and was unhappy with both. There is an outfit in Oklahoma I used for kind of a hard, oddball job, and they were very good, but kind of expensive. Also, that was a few years ago, I don't know if things are the same with them. Let me know if you want a reference and I'll dig up the paperwork, I can't remember the name offhand.
I also tried to look up the differences between powder coating and cerakoting and couldn't figure out if there's a strong reason to go one or the other for a keyboard that will see mainly desk use. Any expertise that you can offer there?
Really appreciate the help.
Cerakote is a ceramic coating. It is used frequently on guns. It is very hard and scratch/heat resistant - substantially harder than powder coating. It is also thinner - it is possible to coat threads, down to some tolerance I can't remember. It costs a fair amount more because it is proprietary, requires special equipment, etc.
My comment about that was a bit of a joke, if not funny. There's really no good reason to use it on a keyboard, in terms of what it is used for - if you're abusing your keyboard that much, there's something else wrong. But, if you like the look of it (it does look distinctive, depending on the color), go for it. Some shops out there also do really fancy stencils and whatnot with it. If you want to look at example fancy applications and don't mind looking at guns, see https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/ . Of course, you'll pay for fancy.
I'd offer to help, but I'm really not very good at powder coating because I hate doing it and the shop I do it at has a poor setup that sometimes causes botched jobs due to people opening the wrong door at the wrong time. And I would hate to do a crappy job on your VE.A.
For anyone doing the Holtite mod, how did you handle keys such as Caps Lock or some of the bottom row keys where the sockets won't fit - just solder those specific switches in?
Done building!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BTtPIxn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gwK3s8c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aH56a11.jpg)
Taking it to a meetup on Sunday and will take better pictures in sunlight!
I designed some wood stands if anyone is interested:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/5odqm8/ic_wood_vea_wrist_wrests/
Thanks, I'm in the Bay Area also - do you have any recommendations for good places? The place I've been talking to at the moment seems sort of hesitant (and didn't even suggest plugs or anything, which I had to Google myself).
I actually tried two different local places, and was unhappy with both. There is an outfit in Oklahoma I used for kind of a hard, oddball job, and they were very good, but kind of expensive. Also, that was a few years ago, I don't know if things are the same with them. Let me know if you want a reference and I'll dig up the paperwork, I can't remember the name offhand.
I also tried to look up the differences between powder coating and cerakoting and couldn't figure out if there's a strong reason to go one or the other for a keyboard that will see mainly desk use. Any expertise that you can offer there?
Really appreciate the help.
Cerakote is a ceramic coating. It is used frequently on guns. It is very hard and scratch/heat resistant - substantially harder than powder coating. It is also thinner - it is possible to coat threads, down to some tolerance I can't remember. It costs a fair amount more because it is proprietary, requires special equipment, etc.
My comment about that was a bit of a joke, if not funny. There's really no good reason to use it on a keyboard, in terms of what it is used for - if you're abusing your keyboard that much, there's something else wrong. But, if you like the look of it (it does look distinctive, depending on the color), go for it. Some shops out there also do really fancy stencils and whatnot with it. If you want to look at example fancy applications and don't mind looking at guns, see https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/ . Of course, you'll pay for fancy.
I'd offer to help, but I'm really not very good at powder coating because I hate doing it and the shop I do it at has a poor setup that sometimes causes botched jobs due to people opening the wrong door at the wrong time. And I would hate to do a crappy job on your VE.A.
Haha ok powder coating it is. Which were the two local places that didn't pass muster? Would like to avoid them to make sure my VE.A turns out nicely.
I designed some wood stands if anyone is interested:
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/5odqm8/ic_wood_vea_wrist_wrests/
Thanks, I'm in the Bay Area also - do you have any recommendations for good places? The place I've been talking to at the moment seems sort of hesitant (and didn't even suggest plugs or anything, which I had to Google myself).
I actually tried two different local places, and was unhappy with both. There is an outfit in Oklahoma I used for kind of a hard, oddball job, and they were very good, but kind of expensive. Also, that was a few years ago, I don't know if things are the same with them. Let me know if you want a reference and I'll dig up the paperwork, I can't remember the name offhand.
I also tried to look up the differences between powder coating and cerakoting and couldn't figure out if there's a strong reason to go one or the other for a keyboard that will see mainly desk use. Any expertise that you can offer there?
Really appreciate the help.
Cerakote is a ceramic coating. It is used frequently on guns. It is very hard and scratch/heat resistant - substantially harder than powder coating. It is also thinner - it is possible to coat threads, down to some tolerance I can't remember. It costs a fair amount more because it is proprietary, requires special equipment, etc.
My comment about that was a bit of a joke, if not funny. There's really no good reason to use it on a keyboard, in terms of what it is used for - if you're abusing your keyboard that much, there's something else wrong. But, if you like the look of it (it does look distinctive, depending on the color), go for it. Some shops out there also do really fancy stencils and whatnot with it. If you want to look at example fancy applications and don't mind looking at guns, see https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/ . Of course, you'll pay for fancy.
I'd offer to help, but I'm really not very good at powder coating because I hate doing it and the shop I do it at has a poor setup that sometimes causes botched jobs due to people opening the wrong door at the wrong time. And I would hate to do a crappy job on your VE.A.
Haha ok powder coating it is. Which were the two local places that didn't pass muster? Would like to avoid them to make sure my VE.A turns out nicely.
I've been on a similar quest in to find somewhere in the bay area to powder coat/re-anodize a couple of keyboards for me.
I'm keen to know how your search turns out.
Done building!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BTtPIxn.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gwK3s8c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aH56a11.jpg)
Taking it to a meetup on Sunday and will take better pictures in sunlight!
Nice build! Silver case with the Penumbra works perfectly!
I'm not much a fan of LEDs in general but I love the backlighting on this keyboard. Here's my VE.A with Carbon:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/OX8pMqp.jpg)
Just curious.
Do you use the left shift? Why not flip the fn key.
I don't flip at all, so I was wondering :D
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
this this this this this
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
this this this this this
I've managed to collect an extra PCB and STS plate along the way.
My hope is to make a case with a polycarb base - super bling.
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
this this this this this
I've managed to collect an extra PCB and STS plate along the way.
My hope is to make a case with a polycarb base - super bling.
Given the way it's assembled I'm not expecting a lot of light to get through! It might not be as bling-y as you think?
There's a 3D scanner that's open access in my city. Some time in the next month or so I'll go there to see if I can scan the polycarb insert accurately so that I could have a metal one milled.
Will report back with my findings.
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
this this this this this
I've managed to collect an extra PCB and STS plate along the way.
My hope is to make a case with a polycarb base - super bling.
Given the way it's assembled I'm not expecting a lot of light to get through! It might not be as bling-y as you think?
There's a 3D scanner that's open access in my city. Some time in the next month or so I'll go there to see if I can scan the polycarb insert accurately so that I could have a metal one milled.
Will report back with my findings.
In which case you might want to do a polycarbonate insert/base in one piece!
Hey Zefyr, any chance you can share the Polycarbonate shape file with us?
I was thinking of maybe getting a custom brass or tungsten weight made for the keyboard and using it instead of the shine-through spacer.
Will there be another drop for this keyboard? :D
I just discovered this beauty.
Thanks, I'm in the Bay Area also - do you have any recommendations for good places? The place I've been talking to at the moment seems sort of hesitant (and didn't even suggest plugs or anything, which I had to Google myself).
I actually tried two different local places, and was unhappy with both. There is an outfit in Oklahoma I used for kind of a hard, oddball job, and they were very good, but kind of expensive. Also, that was a few years ago, I don't know if things are the same with them. Let me know if you want a reference and I'll dig up the paperwork, I can't remember the name offhand.
I also tried to look up the differences between powder coating and cerakoting and couldn't figure out if there's a strong reason to go one or the other for a keyboard that will see mainly desk use. Any expertise that you can offer there?
Really appreciate the help.
Cerakote is a ceramic coating. It is used frequently on guns. It is very hard and scratch/heat resistant - substantially harder than powder coating. It is also thinner - it is possible to coat threads, down to some tolerance I can't remember. It costs a fair amount more because it is proprietary, requires special equipment, etc.
My comment about that was a bit of a joke, if not funny. There's really no good reason to use it on a keyboard, in terms of what it is used for - if you're abusing your keyboard that much, there's something else wrong. But, if you like the look of it (it does look distinctive, depending on the color), go for it. Some shops out there also do really fancy stencils and whatnot with it. If you want to look at example fancy applications and don't mind looking at guns, see https://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/ . Of course, you'll pay for fancy.
I'd offer to help, but I'm really not very good at powder coating because I hate doing it and the shop I do it at has a poor setup that sometimes causes botched jobs due to people opening the wrong door at the wrong time. And I would hate to do a crappy job on your VE.A.
Haha ok powder coating it is. Which were the two local places that didn't pass muster? Would like to avoid them to make sure my VE.A turns out nicely.
I've been on a similar quest in to find somewhere in the bay area to powder coat/re-anodize a couple of keyboards for me.
I'm keen to know how your search turns out.
The only place that's bothered to respond to me has been Leon's Powder Coating in Oakland/Santa Clara, and even then they don't seem too keen on helping. The search continues...
...
I'd recommend Gilbert Spray in Santa Clara. The company I work for has used them for years. They use Cardinal brand powdercoat materials. Check them out and let me know what you find.
Since this GB is over how do I get one of these?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Thanks, not sure I'll get what I want there.Since this GB is over how do I get one of these?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Mech Market on Reddit is your best bet. Good luck!
Thanks, not sure I'll get what I want there.Since this GB is over how do I get one of these?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Mech Market on Reddit is your best bet. Good luck!
I can't buy some pcbs that will enable me to build it myself? Or something similar?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Ah, bummer. I'll go look for a second hand.Thanks, not sure I'll get what I want there.Since this GB is over how do I get one of these?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Mech Market on Reddit is your best bet. Good luck!
I can't buy some pcbs that will enable me to build it myself? Or something similar?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
As far as I know, there has only been one GB for it. So you will have to get it second hand or wait for the next GB.
Alternatively, where can I see if the poster is interested in doing a other GB?Thanks, not sure I'll get what I want there.Since this GB is over how do I get one of these?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Mech Market on Reddit is your best bet. Good luck!
I can't buy some pcbs that will enable me to build it myself? Or something similar?
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
As far as I know, there has only been one GB for it. So you will have to get it second hand or wait for the next GB.
Alternatively, where can I see if the poster is interested in doing a other GB?
Alternatively, where can I see if the poster is interested in doing a other GB?
Oddforge is not going to be doing another groupbuy for the VE.A but will be releasing a version 2 likely this year. It will be posted here when they do.
Alternatively, where can I see if the poster is interested in doing a other GB?
Oddforge is not going to be doing another groupbuy for the VE.A but will be releasing a version 2 likely this year. It will be posted here when they do.
Neat!
Hey, it's my hobby :) please do not forget that.
Some guys already talks about another round.
That is "A LOT OF PRESSURE" on me.
I absolutely have NO plan for another round.
Thanks to you all!
We will be back soon with brand new design!
...
We actually have plan for next version of VE.A.
Our new VE.A has other surface, not anodizing.
...
But as always it is just plan, we dont guarantee anything.
...
...
We actually have plan for next version of VE.A.
Our new VE.A has other surface, not anodizing.
...
But as always it is just plan, we dont guarantee anything.
...
From where/when is this quote?
From where/when is this quote?
DM. That wasn't the whole message, and OF is hopeful, so stay tuned, but I don't want to throw them under the bus by giving out any specifics
you have to get his contact for kakaotalk if you really want to be able to contact him.
you have to get his contact for kakaotalk if you really want to be able to contact him.
I do not use kakaotalk :)
People call me weirdo.
and to me, that sounds like "cool".
Do you have any extra VE.As? :D
Or news for a round 2?
if you really want one, put up the cash, it's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
otherwise there is the ergodox .
if you really want one, put up the cash, it's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
otherwise there is the ergodox .
Hmm..what is the aftermarket asking for these days?
if you really want one, put up the cash, it's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
otherwise there is the ergodox .
Hmm..what is the aftermarket asking for these days?
There is one for sale on /r/mechmarket for $650 (assembled, lubed, sip-socketed) $750 with tenting stand
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/5z248j/usca_h_cleanout_sale_artisans_fugu_bbv2_reapers/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/5z248j/usca_h_cleanout_sale_artisans_fugu_bbv2_reapers/)
Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
You won't see one much cheaper. I bought one in the MD group buy, and with the tenting stand and a spare PCB, the cost was a bit over $600. So add switches and rarity[1], and there you go.
[1] IIRC, there were about 100 sold in the GB, plus whatever was sold elsewhere.
...
We actually have plan for next version of VE.A.
Our new VE.A has other surface, not anodizing.
...
But as always it is just plan, we dont guarantee anything.
...
...
We actually have plan for next version of VE.A.
Our new VE.A has other surface, not anodizing.
...
But as always it is just plan, we dont guarantee anything.
...
Really hoping there will be a next version someday.
Starting to regret only getting one more an more now
The mention of another finish instead anodizing always makes me picture white, based on the lack of white customs.
So I'm going to have this picture of a white VE.A stuck in my head now <3<3
It's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
It's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
Do you know this definitively? or are you just speculating?Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
I spent $700 on mine, which is actually more than I was trying to put a PC together for =P
Considering the time it was simply between the korean VeA GB and the Massdrop one, the time the IC was on here etc. It'll be a whole while.
The exception would be a R2, but he's denied it over and over
and over again :blank:
The thing is... we actually got several(hmm... yeh, tens) requests about stock or next round.
We released about 200 VE.As to geeky-mates all over the world. AND really proud of it :)
We don't care about rarity. But it's a bit old now. For a year and a half, we stuck in one model.
And VE.A is not suitable for production, SATA connector needs to be cut by BARE hands. and it's bugging me. and of course, was hard to handle.
So...
It's like chain-reaction kind of thing.
We want it to be fixed. Yeh.
That means, we need to fix cases also.
If we have to fix case, why not design a new one?
Thoughts reached here so far, still not ended. like cost, tilting, material, diffusing and so on.
And most of all, I am such a lazy bastard.
We are hoping you don't lose interests on us before we come back.
Hey, what a nice day to swim in thick smog! Damn. I got bad throat ouch.
and over again :blank:
The thing is... we actually got several(hmm... yeh, tens) requests about stock or next round.
We released about 200 VE.As to geeky-mates all over the world. AND really proud of it :)
We don't care about rarity. But it's a bit old now. For a year and a half, we stuck in one model.
And VE.A is not suitable for production, SATA connector needs to be cut by BARE hands. and it's bugging me. and of course, was hard to handle.
So...
It's like chain-reaction kind of thing.
We want it to be fixed. Yeh.
That means, we need to fix cases also.
If we have to fix case, why not design a new one?
Thoughts reached here so far, still not ended. like cost, tilting, material, diffusing and so on.
And most of all, I am such a lazy bastard.
We are hoping you don't lose interests on us before we come back.
Hey, what a nice day to swim in thick smog! Damn. I got bad throat ouch.
zefyr mentioned before the he is not willing to release VE.A with different colour because those special colours are only for the first GB supporters. Which is why the MD groupbuy only had 3 colours.
SATA connectors, seems like is going to be changed if there is a new project from him.
There might be more reasons, but looks like a brand new design with more colours would be a better choice. Although, I am sure there are people who would not mind getting the same selections of colours for another GB of VE.A v1.
We are hoping you don't lose interests on us before we come back.
that was fast lol
Is this board available in an ISO layout? Seems a rare find anyway, but I was curious.
that was fast lol
What was the cost on these through that?
So bummed I missed this. I didn't even know that was happening on MD. Congrats to anyone who picked one up, I would have loved to have a brand new one instead of a used one. Missed out on an opportunity to get a Carbon and a Granite set too!? :eek: I need to pay more attention
What are the key sizes for this board? Anyone have a diagram?
It's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
Do you know this definitively? or are you just speculating?Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
I spent $700 on mine, which is actually more than I was trying to put a PC together for =P
Considering the time it was simply between the korean VeA GB and the Massdrop one, the time the IC was on here etc. It'll be a whole while.
The exception would be a R2, but he's denied it over and over
and over again :blank:
The thing is... we actually got several(hmm... yeh, tens) requests about stock or next round.
We released about 200 VE.As to geeky-mates all over the world. AND really proud of it :)
We don't care about rarity. But it's a bit old now. For a year and a half, we stuck in one model.
And VE.A is not suitable for production, SATA connector needs to be cut by BARE hands. and it's bugging me. and of course, was hard to handle.
So...
It's like chain-reaction kind of thing.
We want it to be fixed. Yeh.
That means, we need to fix cases also.
If we have to fix case, why not design a new one?
Thoughts reached here so far, still not ended. like cost, tilting, material, diffusing and so on.
And most of all, I am such a lazy bastard.
We are hoping you don't lose interests on us before we come back.
Hey, what a nice day to swim in thick smog! Damn. I got bad throat ouch.
If you can't make it, fake it...
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=89152.0
(Attachment Link)
I might have asked this, but there are no plans for a round 2? I'm kicking myself about missing out!
I might have asked this, but there are no plans for a round 2? I'm kicking myself about missing out!
get an ergodox
I might have asked this, but there are no plans for a round 2? I'm kicking myself about missing out!
This has been answered multiple times in this thread and not very far back, if you read through the last few pages of posts you will get your answer
I might have asked this, but there are no plans for a round 2? I'm kicking myself about missing out!
get an ergodox
No F-row and Ortholinear; I don't find it as comfortable as basic staggered for half of my needs.I might have asked this, but there are no plans for a round 2? I'm kicking myself about missing out!
This has been answered multiple times in this thread and not very far back, if you read through the last few pages of posts you will get your answer
Drunk posting! I had read that v2 was being developed, but forgot.
There is no plan for a 2nd VEA, but they said they might be working on a new keyboard. Probably 60% since it's hip
There is no plan for a 2nd VEA, but they said they might be working on a new keyboard. Probably 60% since it's hip
That's balls, I liked the design; you don't see enough 75% with unique layout.
Firmware (https://github.com/showjean/ps2avrU/releases)
and bootmapper client (http://blog.winkeyless.kr/155) if you need it
Show Image(http://imgur.com/lrJcKEm.jpg)
build album: http://imgur.com/a/lR64b
one of my favorites! love this board! :thumb:
x-post --- finally got her built --- Salmon ALPS, plate from lasergist using .cad file, ALPS DSA Lightcycle!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/MVofXl5.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g9JhMlR.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7lcj0nC.jpg)
It's going to be a while if and when we see anything.
Do you know this definitively? or are you just speculating?Thank you! I saw this one but I thought the price was a bit high...but I guess that seems to be the only good baseline. 750 is enough to build a decent PC lol.
I spent $700 on mine, which is actually more than I was trying to put a PC together for =P
Considering the time it was simply between the korean VeA GB and the Massdrop one, the time the IC was on here etc. It'll be a whole while.
The exception would be a R2, but he's denied it over and over
and over again :blank:
The thing is... we actually got several(hmm... yeh, tens) requests about stock or next round.
We released about 200 VE.As to geeky-mates all over the world. AND really proud of it :)
We don't care about rarity. But it's a bit old now. For a year and a half, we stuck in one model.
And VE.A is not suitable for production, SATA connector needs to be cut by BARE hands. and it's bugging me. and of course, was hard to handle.
So...
It's like chain-reaction kind of thing.
We want it to be fixed. Yeh.
That means, we need to fix cases also.
If we have to fix case, why not design a new one?
Thoughts reached here so far, still not ended. like cost, tilting, material, diffusing and so on.
And most of all, I am such a lazy bastard.
We are hoping you don't lose interests on us before we come back.
Hey, what a nice day to swim in thick smog! Damn. I got bad throat ouch.
A Stock, B Stock and DIY
A Stock, B Stock and DIY
Would you mind pointing out where did you get those SATA cable (the one on your DIY and the left VE.A)? Considering getting one myself.
A Stock, B Stock and DIY
Would you mind pointing out where did you get those SATA cable (the one on your DIY and the left VE.A)? Considering getting one myself.
They're made by Silverstone - CP11B
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=445
I got mine from Newegg.
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
I really hope that they‘ve removed the odd SATA connector and replaced it with something else.
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
I really hope that they‘ve removed the odd SATA connector and replaced it with something else.
x2
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
I really hope that they‘ve removed the odd SATA connector and replaced it with something else.
x2
x3
I really hope that they‘ve removed the odd SATA connector and replaced it with something else.
x2
x3
-1
I like that it's SATA
I really hope that they‘ve removed the odd SATA connector and replaced it with something else.
x2
x3
-1
I like that it's SATA
-2
I liked that/didn't mind that it was SATA as well. Especially considering ZeFyr has previously explained all the reasons why SATA was the chosen for the VE.A 1.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=79183.msg2042517#msg2042517
USB-C meets all of those needs, unless I'm missing something
USB-C meets all of those needs, unless I'm missing something
usb-c is cheap, easy to source and easy to hand solder ? :confused: . Don't get me wrong USB-C is great but for a product you want to be able to customize and DIY it's still not the greatest.
USB-C meets all of those needs, unless I'm missing something
usb-c is cheap, easy to source and easy to hand solder ? :confused: . Don't get me wrong USB-C is great but for a product you want to be able to customize and DIY it's still not the greatest.
Exactly. Not to mention ZeFyr's post was from Feb 2016...which means his decision in the favor of SATA was probably made in 2015. How common/cheap was USB C in 2015???
USB C is probably a more likely option now though.... it will be interesting to see what he chose now.
USB-C meets all of those needs, unless I'm missing something
usb-c is cheap, easy to source and easy to hand solder ? :confused: . Don't get me wrong USB-C is great but for a product you want to be able to customize and DIY it's still not the greatest.
Exactly. Not to mention ZeFyr's post was from Feb 2016...which means his decision in the favor of SATA was probably made in 2015. How common/cheap was USB C in 2015???
USB C is probably a more likely option now though.... it will be interesting to see what he chose now.
My phone had usb-c in 2015 so yeah
The only problem I had with sata is that it is hard to find custom color cables for. Looking forward to a new improved VE.A!Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171121/c5bb8fd80b4929e2b818e776a19bda9b.jpg)
Mine came from Pexon. Just a shame there's not a US option for something like this when there are so many options for USB.The only problem I had with sata is that it is hard to find custom color cables for. Looking forward to a new improved VE.A!Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171121/c5bb8fd80b4929e2b818e776a19bda9b.jpg)
Sata Cables should be fairly easy to get custom cables for.
In addition too of the shelve sleeved cables, mdpcx sleeving is available for Sata cables, so if you say order a custom usb from Pexon you can always get matching sata.
Nothing against going usb-c, but I quite liked sata =)
biggest thing IMO is trying to address the latency issues.
biggest thing IMO is trying to address the latency issues.
I got rid the latency issue by setting the debounce number to 1.
Initially it was 5, and yeah, i feel the latency.
biggest thing IMO is trying to address the latency issues.
I got rid the latency issue by setting the debounce number to 1.
Initially it was 5, and yeah, i feel the latency.
biggest thing IMO is trying to address the latency issues.
I got rid the latency issue by setting the debounce number to 1.
Initially it was 5, and yeah, i feel the latency.
How do you set the debounce value? My VE.A has been sitting around because of this issue
Hello!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Long time no see.
We are preparing for the following versions of VE.A
We are trying to meet before 2017.
We finished the sample and I'm going to post some pictures later.
We hope you're looking forward to it.
http://www.kbdist.com/updates
"There are a few things coming in with TYPEMACHINA:
VE.A 2"
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?
What is TYPEMACHINA?
http://www.kbdist.com/updates
"There are a few things coming in with TYPEMACHINA:
VE.A 2"
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?
The VE.A 2 sample is now in my car ~~ .
The VE.A 2 sample is now in my car ~~ .
I finished assembling two days ago.
:-*
The VE.A 2 sample is now in my car ~~ .
I finished assembling two days ago.
:-*
I do not want a keyboard that's too expensive.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVpenc1.jpg)
I do not want a keyboard that's too expensive.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVpenc1.jpg)
I do not want a keyboard that's too expensive.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVpenc1.jpg)
I was thinking maybe weights this time?I do not want a keyboard that's too expensive.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/mVpenc1.jpg)
Interesting. Are those for the indicator LEDs?
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?Oh god I hope not :( Their handling of JTK Toxic has been anything but confidence inspiring.
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?Oh god I hope not :( Their handling of JTK Toxic has been anything but confidence inspiring.
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?Oh god I hope not :( Their handling of JTK Toxic has been anything but confidence inspiring.
So VE.A 2 being ran by originative?Oh god I hope not :( Their handling of JTK Toxic has been anything but confidence inspiring.
JTK toxic has provided no reasons to worry about them
Can we get the proto pics lelX2
Anyone know when this gonna drop?
Anyone know when this gonna drop?
Nope. We are all waiting for more information from Zefyr
this is easily my only "insta-buy" of 2018 (or whenever it drops).
Here's some pictures of my board.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here's some pictures of my board.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Here's some pictures of my board.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
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(Attachment Link)
Wow, holy crap!
Is there a plan in place to drop a VE.A GB anytime soon?
I found out about the VE.A very late, but here's a hoping I'd be able to get in on one of the GBs if it takes off anytime soon. :thumb:
They look great!
The VE.A 2 sample is now in my car ~~ .This post was 3 months ago now and still no actual pics.
I finished assembling two days ago.
:-*
The VE.A 2 sample is now in my car ~~ .This post was 3 months ago now and still no actual pics.
I finished assembling two days ago.
:-*
I can see why you are called 'Painmaster'... :(
Hey guys, is there any chance that there are any VE.A PCB's floating around? I'd love to have a spare MX PCB for safety's sake :)
Also, what are the LED's used for the underglow? One of mine is sometimes stuck on even when I turn the LED's off, or it doesn't turn on at all. I might try to replace it.
Hey guys, is there any chance that there are any VE.A PCB's floating around? I'd love to have a spare MX PCB for safety's sake :)
Also, what are the LED's used for the underglow? One of mine is sometimes stuck on even when I turn the LED's off, or it doesn't turn on at all. I might try to replace it.
no pcbs
LEDs are WS2812 i believe
I'll do some research on the LED's. I think that they're the WS2812B as well. Thanks for confirming. Hopefully it's just an LED problem and not a microcontroller issue.
Keep offers to buy and sell to the classifieds.
Keep offers to buy and sell to the classifieds.
M O D P O W E R
Keep offers to buy and sell to the classifieds.
M O D P O W E R
WTB Mod powers. (And privileges via rare caps.)
Keep offers to buy and sell to the classifieds.
M O D P O W E R
WTB Mod powers. (And privileges via rare caps.)
You should apply then :-\
I hope that I can see version 2.
VE.A is so sick board omg
From what I understand getting rid of the SATA connection between the two halves and making the whole package easier to manufacture are the two main goals of the project.
I believe they're going to be run through Typemachina which concerns me a bit tbh as it looks like they're building a storefront for custom keyboard makers like LZ, Oddforge and others.
i love this keyboard... its perfect!
im very new to this,
does each key has a led also? or is there a way to add single key leds?
i have a few ideas for the new v2..
make a complete frosted case for the keyboard and the wrist rest.
and add a volume/switch knob with press function in the corner :D
From what I understand getting rid of the SATA connection between the two halves and making the whole package easier to manufacture are the two main goals of the project.
I believe they're going to be run through Typemachina which concerns me a bit tbh as it looks like they're building a storefront for custom keyboard makers like LZ, Oddforge and others.
im not concerned about type machina being bad at all
that's sherry's baby
bump. this is the last keeb I would ever buy, not even kidding about how e n d g a m e it is for me... any word on v2?
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180713/e238e31ccce5f051424741e53d4ad27a.jpg)
My VE.Alps ;)
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180713/e238e31ccce5f051424741e53d4ad27a.jpg)
My VE.Alps ;)
I love gateron yellows. What made you go with Nancy over Ice layout?
Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180713/e238e31ccce5f051424741e53d4ad27a.jpg)
My VE.Alps ;)
I love gateron yellows. What made you go with Nancy over Ice layout?
Whole different tactile experience :D
Does anyone have info about R2?
Does anyone have info about R2?
info on it is pretty heavily protected
i haven't heard anything reliable
anyone have the original VEA plate files? now the website has gone I can't grab them anymore :(Grabbed off of archive.org. (http://oddforge.com:80/product/vea_resource (http://web.archive.org/web/20170717043902/http://oddforge.com:80/product/vea_resource))
anyone have the original VEA plate files? now the website has gone I can't grab them anymore :(Grabbed off of archive.org. (http://oddforge.com:80/product/vea_resource (http://web.archive.org/web/20170717043902/http://oddforge.com:80/product/vea_resource))
http://web.archive.org/web/20170717043902/http://oddforge.com:80/etc/vea/Example_Alps_Switch_Plate_for_VE.A.dxf
Dropbox mirror (https://www.dropbox.com/s/k0r95sorqiof592/Example_Alps_Switch_Plate_for_VE.A.dxf?dl=0)
Keyboard gods, heed my call for an update.
IC already happening for this:Keyboard gods, heed my call for an update.
I might be wrong but I was looking oddforge today (http://oddforge.hopto.org:8080/wordpress/) and it looks like they are doing a 2nd iteration although there is not much information and I can't read Korean
Does anyone here have the ALPS plate file for the original VEA?
I had it before, but I forgot to back the file up when I formatted my drive.
Does anyone here have the ALPS plate file for the original VEA?
I had it before, but I forgot to back the file up when I formatted my drive.
https://github.com/MajorKoos/KBDParts/tree/master/VE.A%20Parts
does anyone have the stock switch plate design files? the oddforge website has been down for a while : /
thanks! although i didn't find the switch plate file for the stock plate? is it the same as the alps plate or something?
thanks! lol damn you are lucky. since extra plates wasn't an option during the original GB, i wonder how people got their hands on extra plates. At this point, i bet the stock pretty much non-existant.