That better not be the only reason you stick around! ;)It won't, you know that :D
What OPAmp is in your CMOY Ski? Mine sounds a bit meh with the current one.OPA2227P what do you have?
What OPAmp is in your CMOY Ski? Mine sounds a bit meh with the current one.
Time to make me one of these :) Thanks mein kapitan!
WUUUUUUUUUU TAAAAANNNNNNGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG
The whole set-up lasts only ~55 hours?
Ray4jc, I have a few links to that site in my writeup. But thanks for sharing it anyways ^__^
Aha! A browndog adapter! :P Why did you choose that opamp over others?
Back up, can we explain to me what I'm looking at Lunartuna?
The CMOY is not limited to JDS labs, there are multiple makers of CMOY PCBS.
Right, I found that link as well but I can't identify electronic components on sight and understand what they do yet :(
Thanks for clearing that up :D
Some OPAmps do not come in a DIP format, thus you need to use an adapter to allow use of them. These adapters are called Browndog adapters. (http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=970601AS)
Stopped reading after Grado was called "high end".
But I have the 80s? And I think they're comfortable and I like the soundstage? Sorry we have different opinions but I'm not sure your opinion is justified by saying "are well known" and acting like you're some high-flung audiophile. I'll agree to disagree. ^__^
Grados are still amazing for rock and metal, even if they don't stand up to the technicalities and dynamics of higher-end headphones. People don't buy grados looking for the best sound quality. And besides... grados are better than most of the crap that's being sold in stores nowadays.
Those are very general recommendations though. Most of the population seems to like headphones that are warm and smooth. Then there are others like me who prefer the neutral, maybe slightly bright headphones. Then there are bassheads out there that want to shatter their skulls with bass.
I could add a few headphones that may suit other people for each of those catagories.
Grado are well known for their terrible price to performance ratio after the SR80s.
Well I think what I have now, ASUS Essence One, is a DAC+headphone amp in one or something, though I also use it to output to my Adam A5X's via XLR. Anyone have any idea on the impeadance issue? I know the highest Essence one has a switch for IEMs which would probably accomplish what I need but I could only get the lowest essence one, which besides that switch the only difference in the oamps.
yep :(Well I think what I have now, ASUS Essence One, is a DAC+headphone amp in one or something, though I also use it to output to my Adam A5X's via XLR. Anyone have any idea on the impeadance issue? I know the highest Essence one has a switch for IEMs which would probably accomplish what I need but I could only get the lowest essence one, which besides that switch the only difference in the oamps.
The Asus Essence One has an output impedance of 10, which is way too high for the AIAIAI TMA-1 and MDR-V6.
I'm thinking about building an O2 and picking up either a DT-880, HE-400 or maybe HD-600s (all different sounds from what I've heard but they sound intriguing)couldnt really tell you as ive never used a portable style amp. Stuff ive had has randged from highend soundblaster audigy, x-fi and what not to a Roland Edirol FA-66 I still have around, though it sees limited use since its firwire and thats actually quite uncommon on newer PCs. I also have a Focusrite Scarlette 2i4 which replaced the FA-66 for a short time since Roland said there werent going to make Win8 drivers, evertually they did so they must have gotten enough requests for it. Soon after that happened though I got my Essence One which is a huge step up. I wouldnt recommend the Scarlette 2i4 really unless that it you need something like that that is quite portable as it runs off a single USB port. Also unless your using ASIO it only runs as high as 16bit for some reason using the general windows driver (I didnt know this when I bought it) and all the inputs and outputs show up as one input and one output in windows, their all on accessible using the ASIO driver in a compatible program. The main reason I picked up the 2i4 was it was cheapish, did what I needed, and had Win8 support.
Any thoughts on these or the amp?
The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!:( I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.
The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!:( I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.
The IEM switch will most likely lower the gain of the amp's output. It should solve your volume problem, give it a try!:( I dont have the iem switch as its only on the muse edition of the essence one (stupid ikr) and i have the lowest model. I didnt think this was going to be a problem as I could just upgrade the oamps later when I had the monies.
Ahh okay. Your best bet would be looking into the impedance adapters that I linked above. They're fairly inexpensive and they work very well. I have a 200ohm adapter for my gr07s.
I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.
I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.
so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC. I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.
I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.
so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC. I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.
The best one will be the grado extension cable. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Extension-Cable-4-57m-Headphone/dp/B0006DPNNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368644349&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+extension
Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8
I'm thinking about building an O2 and picking up either a DT-880, HE-400 or maybe HD-600s (all different sounds from what I've heard but they sound intriguing)couldnt really tell you as ive never used a portable style amp. Stuff ive had has randged from highend soundblaster audigy, x-fi and what not to a Roland Edirol FA-66 I still have around, though it sees limited use since its firwire and thats actually quite uncommon on newer PCs. I also have a Focusrite Scarlette 2i4 which replaced the FA-66 for a short time since Roland said there werent going to make Win8 drivers, evertually they did so they must have gotten enough requests for it. Soon after that happened though I got my Essence One which is a huge step up. I wouldnt recommend the Scarlette 2i4 really unless that it you need something like that that is quite portable as it runs off a single USB port. Also unless your using ASIO it only runs as high as 16bit for some reason using the general windows driver (I didnt know this when I bought it) and all the inputs and outputs show up as one input and one output in windows, their all on accessible using the ASIO driver in a compatible program. The main reason I picked up the 2i4 was it was cheapish, did what I needed, and had Win8 support.
Any thoughts on these or the amp?
I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.
so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC. I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.
The best one will be the grado extension cable. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Extension-Cable-4-57m-Headphone/dp/B0006DPNNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368644349&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+extension
Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8
crap all sounds the same for the most part. in terms of resistors, vishay 1%s are easier to match and may have measurably less noise if you have incredibly precise test equipment and edge up against their current limits, but meh. there are actually big measurable difference in capacitors in the signal path, but most reasonable audio amplifiers (and in particular the textbook cmoy or jung multiloop) only has DC coupling capacitors, and the common wima polyesters widely available via mouser and digikey sound fine. no need for fancy auricaps or whatever. for power supply reservoir capacitors, nichicons are fine. i mean seriously, there's no noise to suppress out of a battery, even the beefiest of opas isn't going to draw that much current with the craziest dynamic and lowest impedance phones you can think of.
what?e
wires and plugs have no audible effect or measurable effect, sorry.
** unless they're just straight up broken. that's why people go 1/4" or neutrik locking over 3.5mm. 3.5mm jacks just break constantly. SO MANY BROKEN PLUGS AKSJDLAKDJALKJSDASD
Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.
Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x
Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.
Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x
ergonomic im just looking for idk really really nice and possibly over kill for the heck of it since theyll be my first cable like this and their just short pigtails.Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.
Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x
Ain't nobody got money for ergonomic plugs and cables.
Wires and plugs don't have measurable effects, but the important thing is the aesthetics and the ergonomics of the plugs and cables. People who believe cables make a audible difference either have expectation bias, placebo effect, etc. It's ridiculous how much people charge for cables.
Edit: we've gone from CMoys to headphone recommendations to impedance adapters to DIY parts in this thread :x
Ain't nobody got money for ergonomic plugs and cables.
TheGunner, Pointyfox knows all about audio equipment. That's the jist of what I've learned in this thread. I shouldn't have even wrote this review because I could've just asked him.
I was being sarcastic ;D
You've been more than helpful while he's been trolling this pretty hard.
I was being sarcastic ;Dive been trolling? I mean I know I was off topic but ive never trolled in me life sir, I swear.
You've been more than helpful while he's been trolling this pretty hard.
whoo ill check it out and resport back maybe this time making a new thread?I was being sarcastic ;D
You've been more than helpful while he's been trolling this pretty hard.
Ahh okay xD
TheProfosist, check out Toxic Cable's ebay store (http://stores.ebay.com/Toxic-Cables/_i.html?rt=nc&_sid=161256920&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1513&_pgn=1). They're very well known and respected in the head-fi DIY community and i've seen some pretty good cables made from their parts. They have the Furutech, Viablue, and Oyaide 6.35mm plugs as well as various wires.
I was being sarcastic ;Dive been trolling? I mean I know I was off topic but ive never trolled in me life sir, I swear.
You've been more than helpful while he's been trolling this pretty hard.
I was being sarcastic ;Dive been trolling? I mean I know I was off topic but ive never trolled in me life sir, I swear.
You've been more than helpful while he's been trolling this pretty hard.
PointyFox, not you Prof.
Don't get too mad, it's ok. We need trolls too. I mean it only took 5 posts to get a decent answer out of you. I guess thegunner is allowed 5 **** ups too.
Yeah you're right. You know everything about audio equipment. Please listen to music for me.
It was really nice talking to you, good bye.
He can ignore you. There's a forum feature.
He can ignore you. There's a forum feature.
Then he should do so silently, otherwise it's just more trolling.
He can ignore you. There's a forum feature.
Then he should do so silently, otherwise it's just more trolling.
when was he trolling?
I don't think anyone here has claimed that they're an audiophile, nor has anyone here claimed that cables or other components have a measurable effect (except for impedance adapters). So what does the Blackbody have to do with anything? I don't believe i've actually recommended any $40 cables; is there something wrong with wanting to have an ergonomic cable that won't tangle or have memory effect, or good build quality so that it doesn't break?
In page 3 I accidentally linked the grado extension cable. I meant to link the adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor-Cable-Inch/dp/B001DK1ZVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368738275&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+adapter).
He can ignore you. There's a forum feature.
Then he should do so silently, otherwise it's just more trolling.
when was he trolling?
Leave this to the moderators.
I would recommend getting the 200ohm 3.5mm to 6.35mm adapter. the 200 will work well with the low impedance cans, bringing them to around ~250 or so. Around 250 or 300ohm is ideal for the max power output of tube amps too.
so they have a 6.35 to 6.35 as both of the headphones I currently have have built in adapter kinda I guess i could just leave them unscrewed. Also having it stick out like that is kinda odd and I would defined prefer more of a pigtail cable if you know what I mean. Though I have no clue is anyone offeres this sort of thing. Truthfully if id knew where to source the parts I may even be able to throw this thing together my self just reading from the ebay listing kinda what inside it. Also would you happen to know where i can find a high quality 6.35mm to 3.5mm adapter as all the ones ive found are cheaply built and seem to have 0 QC. I need it For my Creative X-Fi HD USB as for some reason they choose to put 6.35mm jacks on the from for your headset while i at least dont know of any consumer headsets that would have that.
The best one will be the adapter. Else you'd have to make your own or get someone else to.
http://www.amazon.com/Grado-Mini-Adaptor-Cable-Inch/dp/B001DK1ZVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368738275&sr=8-1&keywords=grado+adapter
Or did you mean 6.35mm male to 3.5mm female? I think these are fine tbh but of course having a 6.35mm termination and then some cable length before 3.5mm female would be nice.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-Gold-Plated-Plug-Audio-Jack-Male-1-4-6-35mm-to-1-8-3-5mm-Female-Stereo-/160881574088?pt=US_Audio_Cables_Adapters&hash=item25754a00c8
Edit: wrong link for the grado adapter.
Okay... so it's $60 but did I claim anything other than it was an extension cable? I linked the wrong item in the first place. My bad.
I think the price of the HD650 is a bit deceiving. Though they're $500, which isn't THAT bad, they need an amp that costs about the price of the phone to really make them sing. They sound alright with a cheaper amp like an E17, but they scale very well with better amps like the Bottlehead Crack and Lyr.
I'm trying to finish the same tin of Altoids for my future CMoy Smallfry! ^__^
And what's everyone's opinion on the O2? Just curious to hear thoughts