How to fix hole in PCB. / How to wire a pin when PCB hole isn't working.

[Vozella]

I tried asking on /r/MK, but people are not helping and are just downvoting me instead.

My original post was:
http://imgur.com/a/IGkWT
I'm so close to finishing this, but this hole doesn't have the metal thing around it. How can I replace it? Does a silver conductive pen work in this case?
Edit: Okay. I'll fix the amount of solder there is on the other pins.

Second post: Alright. Nobody's telling me how to do this, so I went ahead and guessed, but it just made it worse. http://i.imgur.com/QodFmrs.jpg What am I doing wrong?

I'm hoping people at Geekhack can help me. I'm so lost.

[Badwrench]

I tried asking on /r/MK, but people are not helping and are just downvoting me instead.

My original post was:
http://imgur.com/a/IGkWT
I'm so close to finishing this, but this hole doesn't have the metal thing around it. How can I replace it? Does a silver conductive pen work in this case?
Edit: Okay. I'll fix the amount of solder there is on the other pins.

Second post: Alright. Nobody's telling me how to do this, so I went ahead and guessed, but it just made it worse. http://i.imgur.com/QodFmrs.jpg What am I doing wrong?

I'm hoping people at Geekhack can help me. I'm so lost.

You need to use a multimeter to find where the trace goes.  Just soldering to the next switch is going to cause problems.  I am also a bit confused as to your settings for the iron and type of solder.  First, you are using way too much solder.  It also looks like you are holding the tip on the pcb too long (burn marks and melted off traces).  Remember, a little solder goes a long way. 

Generally, you would run the jumpers like this (this is just a guestimate since I can't see the traces on your board).  Get rid of both wires.  Then jump the areas that I marked in orange.   

[Spopepro]

You have the right idea, generally, but you need to know what connection you need to bridge. The thing about keyboard PCBs is that they don't typically route themselves in nice grids, and the keys next to each other might not be connected.

To understand what's going on, you need to understand how switches are wired. There is a grid and the switch when pressed connects the row and column it's connected to telling the controller the coordinates of the key press. To solve another problem with confusion under multiple key presses, there is a diode between one end of each switch and the grid. For further reading search for "keyboard matrix" and there's a lot more detail.

What you need to do is connect the pin with the bad pad to another place on the PCB that shares its position. This is sometimes hard to figure out without a schematic. A multimeter is really your best friend here, but you can sometimes do it by carefully looking at the PCB and following visible traces under the soldermask. Also people with a fully functional PCB can help.

So in short: you need one jumper to a good common pad. Which pad is not a trivial question to answer.

[Vozella]

Get rid of both wires.  Then jump the areas that I marked in orange.   
(Attachment Link)

What is jumping?

[Spopepro]

"Jump" means connect two otherwise unconnected (open) parts of a circuit. Sometimes you will have two open pins on a device and you can change settings by connecting them with a jumper.

In this case it means to use a wire outside of the connections made on the PCB

[Vozella]

The wire isn't sticking to the bottom piece. I can't solder it.

[Spopepro]

You probably need to work on your soldering skills. This isn't meant to be a put down, but Badwrench is right--that board is in bad shape from too much heat, for too much time, and is covered in burnt flux. Putting things together on a clean board is the easy part. Reworking already soldered parts is much harder.

If I'm guessing what you're doing, you're thing to connect the wire to the pad at the end of the diode. I'm also going to guess that the diode was soldered by the manufacturer. What they did was use a solder paste, applied *exactly* the amount needed using a stencil, and then baked the whole board. The controlled amount of solder, the fact that it might be lead free, and the predictable burn off of flux means that getting the joint to flow again isn't easy. And the solution is *NOT* more heat.

When redoing soldered joints you really should first apply a little bit of flux. Soldering flux is rosin based (NOT the acid flux plumbers use for brazing pipes, which will also sometimes be called soldering flux) and is applied with a toothpick or a brush. Your solder in the spool has flux in it, that flux vaporizes when soldering. You need to put flux back to help the solder flow again. Some people forgo the flux and just use a little bit more solder (thereby adding flux from the extra solder) but that's a waste of solder and the last thing in the world you need is to put more solder on that board.