Hey guys.
I lurk alot here, but haven't really had anything worth posting so far. Until now that is.
Short version:
check what I just made!
Long version:
I bought my first mechanical KB almost a year ago, a Filco Ninja Majestouch 2 Tenkeyless (Brown switches), and I pretty much fell in love with it immediately when I got it. I bought the tenkeyless version because I like to have the numpad on the left side (I'm left handed), a regular numpad is useless. Now, I could have just bought the Filco tenkeypad, but that's not how I roll. I'm very much into electronics and DIY, so I figured it would be a worthy goal to build my own.
I bought a relatively cheap Cherry keyboard (blue switches) from someone around here a couple of months after getting my Filco, for the purposes of disassembling it. I started dismantling it quite soon after getting it, but before I got very far, I put the project on hold for some reason. After more than 6 months, last week I finally got around to actually going forward with the project.
I looked at the original Cherry keyboard for the numpad layout and designed my own board (using KiCAD). I used a USB-capable Atmel AVR as the microcontroller (at90usb162) and I got the initial design finished the same day. I'm currently studying at a University where I've got access to a circuit mill, so I used it to mill the board the next day, then soldered and programmed it. Code was the easy part, LUFA usb library for AVRs is such an easy thing to use.
I've now used it for over a week and it works very nicely.
More info on my website:
http://tuomasnylund.fi/drupal6/content/usb-cherry-mx-numpadAll the code and pcb designs are on my github:
https://github.com/tuomasnylundNow, it's not over yet!
I started improving the PCB design abit after some time of using the numpad.
- Rounded the PCB corners
- Moved the switches abit more up, to move them closer to the center of board
- Slightly wider, now evenly sized at 100mm*80mm
- Hid the programming header under the PCB
- Made provisions for the numlock being lit by LED underneath (if I get one of those fancy keycaps with a window in them)
I'll probably not mill the new version, but get it made in China with soldermask and silkscreen. I'm also looking at maybe getting some acrylic lasercut for a case of some sort, but we'll see about that. I'm thinking of ordering something in the following weeks. Or maybe I'll just leave the project alone for 6 months again. You never know.
In any case, comments, questions, suggestions, anything like that, are always welcome.
I'll also try to post updates to this topic if I get further with this whole thing.