What do I do with this? It's thus compatible with anything, yet?
ill take the other 300 so with your half we are now all the way to the pricebreak
What do I do with this? It's thus compatible with anything, yet?
Think of it as a PCB for any custom layout you can get a plate made for. You would need one pcb for each switch.
Here is a link to the IC http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.0
What do I do with this? It's thus compatible with anything, yet?
Think of it as a PCB for any custom layout you can get a plate made for. You would need one pcb for each switch.
Here is a link to the IC http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.0
For one this would be cheaper than a single pcb for the entire layout as with this design you are not paying for PCB space between switches, it very flexible in terms of layout and are cheap enough that a person could order half a dozen extras or so and have spares in the event of a lifted pad or such. Plus, they can be soldered to the switch before installing in the plate.
Ok. I saw this before.
I didn't understand it at first.
I think I get it now. I might need to see some examples on pluses and minuses to using this versus a premade pcb though.
Oh, Im following.
Does it need a motherboard device? Like a central location that these pcbs report to before it connects to USB.
Oh, Im following.
Does it need a motherboard device? Like a central location that these pcbs report to before it connects to USB.
I'm interested in this as well. Presumably a teensy would be used as a controller. Do these need to be hand-wired together or is there some way to solder them?
Just wondering, how would it work with Alps when they're not tapered like MX switches. I'm trying to figure out how you would make a plate or something that would let you use them.
The minimum buy is 3 PCBs?
The minimum buy is 3 PCBs?
Sorry for missing your post CPT. I will change it to 1. I don't know what I was thinking. I wrote up that form at 1 in the morning.
So are these V1 or V2?
Melvang was ordering about 300. Bunnylake ordered 300 as well. So your order puts the buy clearly into $.25 range.
In for 200 please.Same. Hopefully by the time mid-May rolls around we'll get the next pricebreak
Melvang was ordering about 300. Bunnylake ordered 300 as well. So your order puts the buy clearly into $.25 range.
Without my order but including you potential order of 200 we would be into the $.25 price range.
Melvang was ordering about 300. Bunnylake ordered 300 as well. So your order puts the buy clearly into $.25 range.
Without my order but including you potential order of 200 we would be into the $.25 price range.
Yeah too be honest I didn't even read the thread. Got excited and spam posted. Filling out the form when I get home.
I was planning to rely on a metal plate for these: place switch on plate and solder pcb underneath with wires instead of traces. Would this work?
Anyone else doing a 60% with matias quiet switches?
might order just a few to play around with.
I am a conscript. Do I get the military discount?
I'm good at the mechanical aspects of soldering, but fail hard at understanding electronics. How does a controller fit with a batch of these? Also need to look up USB connection.
If I'm spamming your thread please delete :P maybe others have my dumb questions though.
You may have missed my order, as you added AKmalamute's order, which is a quote of mine.
Placed my order as well. Thanks, Melvang!
in for 1000
in for 1000LOL
Is it possible to have a single-switch PCB made for keys that require PCB-mount stabilizers? For example, it would be much easier and cheaper to laser-cut acrylic mounting plates, but it is not easy to mount stabilizers firmly on acrylic plates because acrylic plates would be thick.
Is it possible to have a single-switch PCB made for keys that require PCB-mount stabilizers? For example, it would be much easier and cheaper to laser-cut acrylic mounting plates, but it is not easy to mount stabilizers firmly on acrylic plates because acrylic plates would be thick.
In the case of the spacebar, would a fix be to change the plate design to take switches in the place of stabilisers and fit linear switches with very light springs in those places? No idea what you'd do for anything else though.
edit: Actually now that I've thought about it that seems like it'd be very wobbly.
Forgive me if it's been mentioned, but what sort of SMD components would be needed?
Just diodes?
Not that it is much of a concern as far as standard boards are concerned (i.e. if you dismantled a QFR) but would the use of this PCB mean you couldn't use a universal plate or is the fit of a switch in a plate (i.e. in a place where you could have either a Cherry or standard capslock) secure enough that it wouldn't move unless you wanted it to?
Is it possible to have a single-switch PCB made for keys that require PCB-mount stabilizers? For example, it would be much easier and cheaper to laser-cut acrylic mounting plates, but it is not easy to mount stabilizers firmly on acrylic plates because acrylic plates would be thick.
Forgive me if it's been mentioned, but what sort of SMD components would be needed?
Just diodes?
I believe that through-hole diodes are supported in addition to SMD diodes, so no SMD components are required. Check out the picture here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.msg1254946#msg1254946). Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
I know this is a moot point at this point in time, but if the total quantity being ordered is anything above 120 pieces, then you should just get 600 right off the bat
600*0.25 = 150
120 * 1.25 = 150
You break even the prices at 120 pieces, and anything between 120 and 600 pieces you're paying more than you could be.
Don't mind this post, it was just something that bugged me!
Any idea how much the savings will be at the 4000 mark? If it drops the pcb price down to $0.15 I may up my order to 300ish.I know this is a moot point at this point in time, but if the total quantity being ordered is anything above 120 pieces, then you should just get 600 right off the bat
600*0.25 = 150
120 * 1.25 = 150
You break even the prices at 120 pieces, and anything between 120 and 600 pieces you're paying more than you could be.
Don't mind this post, it was just something that bugged me!
Yeah we are already well over halfway to the 4k mark.
Any idea how much the savings will be at the 4000 mark? If it drops the pcb price down to $0.15 I may up my order to 300ish.I know this is a moot point at this point in time, but if the total quantity being ordered is anything above 120 pieces, then you should just get 600 right off the bat
600*0.25 = 150
120 * 1.25 = 150
You break even the prices at 120 pieces, and anything between 120 and 600 pieces you're paying more than you could be.
Don't mind this post, it was just something that bugged me!
Yeah we are already well over halfway to the 4k mark.
You may have missed my order, as you added AKmalamute's order, which is a quote of mine.
Just checked my Google docs response spreadsheet and I am not seeing your order.
Moz has submitted to me gerber files for an updated version of the pcb with rounded corners and a cleaner silkscreen. He has also provided me with files for a single switch pcb that supports pcb mount stabs for up to a 3 unit key. I will get some images of these both, wipe everyone's order clean and provide a new order form. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Make sure you post that in the OP. Also, pm some people of you can.
Some people might assume their order is in and not realize they have to resubmit.
It almost happened to me.
I should have paid more attention.
Moz has submitted to me gerber files for an updated version of the pcb with rounded corners and a cleaner silkscreen. He has also provided me with files for a single switch pcb that supports pcb mount stabs for up to a 3 unit key. I will get some images of these both, wipe everyone's order clean and provide a new order form. Sorry for the inconvenience.
I think it's the same circuit it just looks a little different. Does that require a prototype? I don't actually know.
I think it's the same circuit it just looks a little different. Does that require a prototype? I don't actually know.
I can quickly do one for 6.25u and 7.00u spacebars if there is interest.
I'm guessing all the new options will increase price?
Will all the new pieces have separate MOQ's?
Is the new order form ready or should I wait still to add my order?
Is the new order form ready or should I wait still to add my order?
Hold off for now. Heading out for some stuff with the wife now. I will put up a new order form tonight.
Super nice for you to expand your group buy like this. Thanks Melvang!
Personally, since using these PCBs will require a plate, I don't know why everyone wouldn't just use plate mounted stabs. Unless I'm missing something.
Super nice for you to expand your group buy like this. Thanks Melvang!
Personally, since using these PCBs will require a plate, I don't know why everyone wouldn't just use plate mounted stabs. Unless I'm missing something.
Here is a shot of the v2.0 with the plated through holes for interconnects. Much easier soldering.http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.msg1304971#msg1304971
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55744.msg1288883#msg1288883
At this point you would write your firmware and flash the teensy.
Melvang -- you're doing great. Nothing to apologize for. There's adjustments in every group buy.
What do i need to make the whole thing work other than these little pcbs?
a teensy as controller only?
im very interested in this but i lack knowledge and example of how to make it work :(
What do i need to make the whole thing work other than these little pcbs?
a teensy as controller only?
im very interested in this but i lack knowledge and example of how to make it work :(
You would need a controller of some sort (Teensy is most common) and a plate would be required as there is nothing to connect the switches to each other in the matrix aside from some hook up wire. Think of this as a custom PCB that will fit any layout and you just order a "size of the board" by how many switches you have in it.
What do i need to make the whole thing work other than these little pcbs?
a teensy as controller only?
im very interested in this but i lack knowledge and example of how to make it work :(
You would need a controller of some sort (Teensy is most common) and a plate would be required as there is nothing to connect the switches to each other in the matrix aside from some hook up wire. Think of this as a custom PCB that will fit any layout and you just order a "size of the board" by how many switches you have in it.
So whats left is a firmware for the software end? :)
I'm in for at least 100
cuz i dont see the price now, though i remember its $0.25 after 600 orders
asking my friends if they want any so we can save shipping cost :thumb:
thx melvang
I will be using soarer's controller firmware on mine. It's easy to set up and I can change layouts without having to recompile anything.What do i need to make the whole thing work other than these little pcbs?
a teensy as controller only?
im very interested in this but i lack knowledge and example of how to make it work :(
You would need a controller of some sort (Teensy is most common) and a plate would be required as there is nothing to connect the switches to each other in the matrix aside from some hook up wire. Think of this as a custom PCB that will fit any layout and you just order a "size of the board" by how many switches you have in it.
So whats left is a firmware for the software end? :)
isn't somebody developing an easy way to program custom layouts?
Current Orders in alphabetical order
Username - Without stabs - with stabs
...
thweir - 200 - 4
...
Current Orders in alphabetical order
Username - Without stabs - with stabs
...
thweir - 200 - 4
...
:( I was on my phone when I submitted the form, so "thweir" should be "tjweir" sorry about that.
jdcarpe, we are going to need you to run another teensy GB now. :P
I recommend including the option for Teensy shields as well.
can i ask what are the stab holes for??Inserting stabilizers into. Nothing more elaborate than that; certain stabilizer designs attach to the PCB and passively ignore the plate. The new design facilitates that.
isn't somebody developing an easy way to program custom layouts?
There was talk but I dont think anyone has published anything yet. I started a thread on it but most likely everything will have to be from scratch.
I'm trying to wrap my head around how these would be kept in place inside a case with a plate. If the PCB is small enough to fit through the switch hole in the plate to remove a single switch, does that mean there is the potential for a lot of individual switches moving around (while typing, or even in transit, I suppose) if you were to build a full board from these PCBs? or would there be some other way you could ensure they were secure to the bottom of a case?
Sorry, I feel dumb. I completely spaced about the fact that the switches actually clip onto the plate. After testing with some switches on one of my spare plates, I have a better idea of how this would actually fit together for a project.I'm trying to wrap my head around how these would be kept in place inside a case with a plate. If the PCB is small enough to fit through the switch hole in the plate to remove a single switch, does that mean there is the potential for a lot of individual switches moving around (while typing, or even in transit, I suppose) if you were to build a full board from these PCBs? or would there be some other way you could ensure they were secure to the bottom of a case?
If I understand you correctly, you are referring to a case that could be used either with or without a plate as the plate does not attach to the case but the PCB does. If that is what you are referring to then this would not work. The primary audience of this (in my head at least) was people that are developing custom layouts/cases where the plate is either an integral part of or the plate physically attaches to the case in some way, shape, or form.
I am thinking of just getting some ergodox plates and trying to hand wire an ergodox with these. Will it work?
I'm not sure how I would connect the two boards together yet.
I am thinking of just getting some ergodox plates and trying to hand wire an ergodox with these. Will it work?
I'm not sure how I would connect the two boards together yet.
But ErgoDox PCBs are available, and not expensive...
Tarzan is selling his for $20 (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=57551.0) right now. Might want to snatch that one up.
As for an ALPS version Ergodox, you'd have to build a custom PCB to get that to work.
Have you looked at any other vendors for quotes, e.g. pcbwing or pcbcart? Maybe they could provide a larger discount for larger volumes.
Is this still going to end tomorrow?
Have you looked at any other vendors for quotes, e.g. pcbwing or pcbcart? Maybe they could provide a larger discount for larger volumes.seeed studio?
Have you looked at any other vendors for quotes, e.g. pcbwing or pcbcart? Maybe they could provide a larger discount for larger volumes.seeed studio?
their price is normally good enough (IMHO)
Well, I did some digging and pcbwing was more expensive (31.35 cents per single pcb). I did find PCBcart to be much cheaper though it is so cheap that it is scarring me away from it. Just seems to good to be true (8 cents per single pcb). If anyone wants to cancel their order and go with them by all means I can't stop you. There are some benefits to going with OshPark.
- they advertise that they manufacture in the USA so shipping to me (for sorting will be quicker)
- Keeps jobs in the US (I supprort US made products whenever feasible)
- They are the only place I have found purple soldermask
- I already have an established line of communication with OshPark and no language barrier
Well, I did some digging and pcbwing was more expensive (31.35 cents per single pcb). I did find PCBcart to be much cheaper though it is so cheap that it is scarring me away from it. Just seems to good to be true (8 cents per single pcb). If anyone wants to cancel their order and go with them by all means I can't stop you. There are some benefits to going with OshPark.
- they advertise that they manufacture in the USA so shipping to me (for sorting will be quicker)
- Keeps jobs in the US (I supprort US made products whenever feasible)
- They are the only place I have found purple soldermask
- I already have an established line of communication with OshPark and no language barrier
I'm in favour of all the 4 points you've outlined here, so I'm not bothered by this decision. I'll let others speak up if they are though (or they can order separately, as you said).
Well, I did some digging and pcbwing was more expensive (31.35 cents per single pcb). I did find PCBcart to be much cheaper though it is so cheap that it is scarring me away from it. Just seems to good to be true (8 cents per single pcb). If anyone wants to cancel their order and go with them by all means I can't stop you. There are some benefits to going with OshPark.
- they advertise that they manufacture in the USA so shipping to me (for sorting will be quicker)
- Keeps jobs in the US (I supprort US made products whenever feasible)
- They are the only place I have found purple soldermask
- I already have an established line of communication with OshPark and no language barrier
Well, I did some digging and pcbwing was more expensive (31.35 cents per single pcb). I did find PCBcart to be much cheaper though it is so cheap that it is scarring me away from it. Just seems to good to be true (8 cents per single pcb). If anyone wants to cancel their order and go with them by all means I can't stop you. There are some benefits to going with OshPark.
- they advertise that they manufacture in the USA so shipping to me (for sorting will be quicker)
- Keeps jobs in the US (I supprort US made products whenever feasible)
- They are the only place I have found purple soldermask
- I already have an established line of communication with OshPark and no language barrier
PCBCart is the fab for the GH60 group buy.
Also, I'm pretty certain that OSHPark uses Gold Phoenix in China as their fab.
Well, I did some digging and pcbwing was more expensive (31.35 cents per single pcb). I did find PCBcart to be much cheaper though it is so cheap that it is scarring me away from it. Just seems to good to be true (8 cents per single pcb). If anyone wants to cancel their order and go with them by all means I can't stop you. There are some benefits to going with OshPark.
- they advertise that they manufacture in the USA so shipping to me (for sorting will be quicker)
- Keeps jobs in the US (I supprort US made products whenever feasible)
- They are the only place I have found purple soldermask
- I already have an established line of communication with OshPark and no language barrier
PCBCart is the fab for the GH60 group buy.
Also, I'm pretty certain that OSHPark uses Gold Phoenix in China as their fab.
This is right on their front page
"We bring you high quality, lead free boards (ENIG finish), manufactured in the USA, and shipped for free to anywhere in the world.
I'm gonna cancel, sorry
Building a keyboard is on my agenda, but I don't have the time/$$$ for all the other accessories right now
Maybe in the future
Updated my ship address with the Edit Response form, let me know if I screwed it all up.
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I got both of you guys.
On a side note, nathairtras, I see you placed a second order for 2 with stab holes and a note about wanting spacebar versions. Do you want a pair of 2 unit versions or just 2 spacebar versions and what size.
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I got both of you guys.
On a side note, nathairtras, I see you placed a second order for 2 with stab holes and a note about wanting spacebar versions. Do you want a pair of 2 unit versions or just 2 spacebar versions and what size.
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I got both of you guys.
On a side note, nathairtras, I see you placed a second order for 2 with stab holes and a note about wanting spacebar versions. Do you want a pair of 2 unit versions or just 2 spacebar versions and what size.
Sorry, just saw this. Wanted two spacebar versions only, size 6u?
I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!I placed an order using the form yesterday but didn't post anything here. If I was supposed to do that, I apologize!
I got both of you guys.
On a side note, nathairtras, I see you placed a second order for 2 with stab holes and a note about wanting spacebar versions. Do you want a pair of 2 unit versions or just 2 spacebar versions and what size.
Sorry, just saw this. Wanted two spacebar versions only, size 6u?
Is there any other similar controller as Teensy?
Is there any other similar controller as Teensy?
There's a thread somewhere -- Deskthority, I think. Older now, but they list other places to get keyboard-suitable microcontrollers. Soarer has had success with the $5 arduino knockoffs. No fancy reset button or LED but if you handwire the Reset pin to ... shoot. Ground? It goes into program mode and will take the same firmware except of course the pin names are all different ... and there's fewer of them.
Will something like this eventually be available on something like MK? I would love to pick up a pack of these once I get the resources and learn how to wire up a keyboard.
I just had an idea that I don't know if it has been considered, or could even be done. If the spacebar PCBs have a lot of blank space could some kind of mounting holes be made for the teensy?
I missed the space-bar discussion... glad it's still open, though I didn't see a spot for them on the order form.
Melvang, can you please add 2 (two) 6.25u space-bar enablers to my order?
Thanks,
Everything going smoothly over here? I haven't heard anything about invoices yet.
Sorry about the delay guys. My work schedule has been getting changed and have been working in different places over the last few weeks along with long hours. It has been either 12 hours a couple minutes from home or 8+ hours with an hour drive each way. Right now I am back to 12 hour days on third shift with Mon, Tue, and ever other Wed off. On top of that day care for my 18 month old daughter is closed for the week and my wife spend almost a week in the hospital with her dad.
I will be starting invoices tonight.
Recieved.
Thank you to the guys that pay early and promptly. If we can get all the invoices paid early I will order as soon as they are paid. If the invoices are not paid by the time I wake up on the second you will be getting left behind and order canceled unless prior arrangements have been made. There will probably be a small grace period due to being a weekend.
Paid...
I didn't want my status to be left out even though I paid like 8 hours ago. I still don't understand why we post paid statuses.
Paid...
I didn't want my status to be left out even though I paid like 8 hours ago. I still don't understand why we post paid statuses.
... I still don't understand why we post paid statuses.
I do it to encourage others to pay quickly.
... I still don't understand why we post paid statuses.
I do it to encourage others to pay quickly.
Same, I hope it prompts slowpokes to pay. GB leaders deal with enough logistics that paying on time should be expected.
My Ghostbro is so ready to have a proper home :D
Would be interested in seeing some examples of how people could use these PCBs to produce a final keyboard.
Such as what plates they are thinking of buying, the casing, the controller (teensy?) and other materials required.
I'm a real newb with this and I don't have any plans yet, so any direction as to what others are planning would be helpful. A brief step by step guide would be nice to, doesn't even have to be that detailed.
I am planning to hand wire an Ergodox with these and a teensy. I still need to figure out how I am going to do the io expander, but that should be a solvable problem. I am getting the plates from AKmalamute's GB. This is the cheapest way for me to try out the dox layout. I require dedicated arrow keys, so I am not sure how I will manage that.
At some point I would also like to hand wire one of Matt3o's Robot-65 Elf cases. I love my FC660C and I think this would be a great board with similar properties.
I am planning to hand wire an Ergodox with these and a teensy. I still need to figure out how I am going to do the io expander, but that should be a solvable problem. I am getting the plates from AKmalamute's GB. This is the cheapest way for me to try out the dox layout. I require dedicated arrow keys, so I am not sure how I will manage that.
At some point I would also like to hand wire one of Matt3o's Robot-65 Elf cases. I love my FC660C and I think this would be a great board with similar properties.
Cool thanks, I'm hoping to put together a board similar to the awesomeness of the Robot-65 Elf. Not sure how everything is layered though which is partly my confusion. For ex:
layer 1: keycaps
layer 2: switches
layer 3: plate?
layer 4: enabler pcbs?
layer 5: casing
Like, is there another layer between 4-5? Some kind of board to fixate the individual PCBs to something?
I am planning to hand wire an Ergodox with these and a teensy. I still need to figure out how I am going to do the io expander, but that should be a solvable problem. I am getting the plates from AKmalamute's GB. This is the cheapest way for me to try out the dox layout. I require dedicated arrow keys, so I am not sure how I will manage that.
At some point I would also like to hand wire one of Matt3o's Robot-65 Elf cases. I love my FC660C and I think this would be a great board with similar properties.
Cool thanks, I'm hoping to put together a board similar to the awesomeness of the Robot-65 Elf. Not sure how everything is layered though which is partly my confusion. For ex:
layer 1: keycaps
layer 2: switches
layer 3: plate?
layer 4: enabler pcbs?
layer 5: casing
Like, is there another layer between 4-5? Some kind of board to fixate the individual PCBs to something?
There is nothing that the PCBs attach to aside from the switch. The switch is mounted to the plate, and the plate is attached to the case. Using these you do not attach the pcbs to the case. They have to be plate mounted switches.
Yes, the will be a layer between 4 and 5. You will probably have to put spacers between the plate and the case. Yes, you also require a plate because that is how the enabler pcb is held in place. I plan to potentially use a silicon sheet in between the pcbs and the plate, but I am not sure that will work with these PCBs yet. You can check my minimial case design thread to get an idea of the absolute minimum case you would need for this. The clear 60% case I have in there with the standoffs (no silicon sheet) is probably the simplest visual for the requirements of your case and plate to case mounting.
The case...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68206;image)
Installed...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68208;image)
The gap for hand wired components...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68210;image)
Keep in mind that this is a 5mm acrylic plate, so you will likely have more room between the bottom of the plate and the back plate (the standoffs would be taller)
There is nothing that the PCBs attach to aside from the switch. The switch is mounted to the plate, and the plate is attached to the case. Using these you do not attach the pcbs to the case. They have to be plate mounted switches.
Oh ok. Some plates have notches to remove switches with a switch tool, I'm guessing this wouldn't be possible to do with these PCBs correct?Yes, the will be a layer between 4 and 5. You will probably have to put spacers between the plate and the case. Yes, you also require a plate because that is how the enabler pcb is held in place. I plan to potentially use a silicon sheet in between the pcbs and the plate, but I am not sure that will work with these PCBs yet. You can check my minimial case design thread to get an idea of the absolute minimum case you would need for this. The clear 60% case I have in there with the standoffs (no silicon sheet) is probably the simplest visual for the requirements of your case and plate to case mounting.
The case...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68206;image)
Installed...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68208;image)
The gap for hand wired components...Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51872.0;attach=68210;image)
Keep in mind that this is a 5mm acrylic plate, so you will likely have more room between the bottom of the plate and the back plate (the standoffs would be taller)
Thanks! Makes a lot more sense now.
You can still use a plate that has those notches. However, you don't need them to swap spring. You can just pop the switch out of the plate without desoldering. Pull the switch up a bit with the wires still attached. The PCB was designed to fit through the plate holes for both MX and alps switches. Swap your internals, put the top back on and reseat the switch in the plate. The one time this won't be possible is when using thick plates, ie acrylic or wood plates where the switches have to be glued down.
You can still use a plate that has those notches. However, you don't need them to swap spring. You can just pop the switch out of the plate without desoldering. Pull the switch up a bit with the wires still attached. The PCB was designed to fit through the plate holes for both MX and alps switches. Swap your internals, put the top back on and reseat the switch in the plate. The one time this won't be possible is when using thick plates, ie acrylic or wood plates where the switches have to be glued down.
You can still use a plate that has those notches. However, you don't need them to swap spring. You can just pop the switch out of the plate without desoldering. Pull the switch up a bit with the wires still attached. The PCB was designed to fit through the plate holes for both MX and alps switches. Swap your internals, put the top back on and reseat the switch in the plate. The one time this won't be possible is when using thick plates, ie acrylic or wood plates where the switches have to be glued down.
Assuming you leave enough slack between PCBs when you hand wire the PCBs together. Right?
The Enabler PCBs for larger keys do support stabilizers I think, but that doesn't mean you have to use them. So either type of stabs will work depending on what you want to do.
The Enabler PCBs for larger keys do support stabilizers I think, but that doesn't mean you have to use them. So either type of stabs will work depending on what you want to do.
The Enabler PCBs for larger keys do support stabilizers I think, but that doesn't mean you have to use them. So either type of stabs will work depending on what you want to do.
Cool thanks, was kind of hoping it would be one or the other, because now I feel like buying both incase XD
Received my plates last weekThis *might* be the wrong thread.
Received my plates last weekThis *might* be the wrong thread.
...just sayin' ...
Second post has been updated with payment info that i have received. Reminders going out to the three that I have not heard from yet.
Second post has been updated with payment info that i have received. Reminders going out to the three that I have not heard from yet.
Three isn't all that bad. Nice job!
Please let us know if you find that the numbers drop below a certain MOQ, or square space if any more drop out.
Hi Chris Hurlbut,
OK! I think we've gotten everything set up for you. We weren't quite able to fit all of it on our medium run panel properly, so we'll be shipping the vS20 boards a week or so after the rest of them. On the good news side though, this will be heading to the fab very soon since it fills up our panel. I figured I'd let you know in case that helps you plan things out on your end. :)
Hi Chris,
Oh geez! This ticket got buried somehow. We finally got all the parts back from the fab this week, and we're wrapping it up as soon as we can find a box for it. It's a LOT of boards. :)
Fabrication is completeQuoteHi Chris,
Oh geez! This ticket got buried somehow. We finally got all the parts back from the fab this week, and we're wrapping it up as soon as we can find a box for it. It's a LOT of boards. :)
Having gotten used to 66 hour weeks myself, I know exactly how that goes. Happy for the update, many thanks for putting this through :)
Now I just need 250 switches. For science... You've mounted switches to a cardboard box, yeah? How did that work out for you? :p
All orders have been shipped as of this morning. All domestic orders have tracking, PM me if you want the number. All CONUS orders are expected to be delivered either Wed, or Thur this week. International orders, I couldn't tell ya how how long it is going to take.
Got mine yesterday.
Is there ... like, a diagram somewhere? The only thing I can tell for sure is the anode-cathode marking for, I guess an SMT LED, since the pictures show the 1N4148 being on a different side from that. Rows, Columns? I'll look again tonight but there's a lot more holes on that then I somehow had it in my head there would be ... and not much room left over for silkscreen diagramming.
| Pad | Item | Silkscreen | Remarks |
| 1 | Resistor (External) | R | Connects resistor to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 2 | Switch pins | None | Switch (Alps or Cherry MX) pin |
| 3 | Switch (External) | S | Connects switch to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 4 | Switch pin | None | Switch (Alps or Cherry MX) pin |
| 5 | Diode (External) | D | Connects diode to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 6 | Switch (External) | S | Connects switch to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 7 | Resitor (External) | R | Connects resistor to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 8 | Diode cathode | Solid bar | Through diode's cathode end (Side with the bar) goes here |
| 9 | LED anode | Longer leg | Through hole LED's longer leg goes here |
| 10 | LED (External) | None | Two holes two connect LED to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 11 | LED cathode | Shorter leg | Through hole LED's shorter leg goes here |
| 12 | Diode (External) | D | Connects diode to external circuit/enabler/controller |
| 13 | Diode anode | None | Through diode's anode end goes here |
| A | Resistor | Enclosing box | SMD Resistor goes here, no polarity so you can orient it anyway |
| B | Resistor | Enclosing box | SMD Resistor goes here, no polarity so you can orient it anyway |
| C | Diode anode | Diode symbol | SMD diode's anode end goes here |
| D | Diode cathode | Diode symbol | SMD diode's cathode end (Side with the bar) goes here |
As the designer of the PCB I have no issues with the files being released for anyone to use, however the idea was Melvang's, so it is up to him now. I believe he will release the files once the GB is complete.
I received mine yesterday, which is not bad at all considering I live in Norway:P
I got mine today, many thanks. Although I wish you had written something under $20 for the value as putting $30 on it meant it cost me $18 in extra fees. Oh well.
Now available on http://techkeys.us
I'm digging back here a bit, but has anyone completed a project with the enabler? I'm interested in trying something with it.
I'm digging back here a bit, but has anyone completed a project with the enabler? I'm interested in trying something with it.
I know what I want to build, no time yet. :(
I'm digging back here a bit, but has anyone completed a project with the enabler? I'm interested in trying something with it.
I know what I want to build, no time yet. :(
Okay, well maybe you can explain how you are supposed to structurally connect each PCB.
I'm digging back here a bit, but has anyone completed a project with the enabler? I'm interested in trying something with it.
I know what I want to build, no time yet. :(
Okay, well maybe you can explain how you are supposed to structurally connect each PCB.
Each PCB solders to each switch and then the switch clips into the plate. This was meant for plate mounted switches.
I will get files posted this weekend.