HyperX Alloy Origins Desolder, Solder, Lubrication, and Modding Help Request

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ShangWang:
I'm from Canada and I have the HyperX Alloy Origins with Tactile Aqua Switches. I believe they are plate mounted.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0B3YCJB1B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm trying to desolder and then solder back on the switches and stabilizers to lube the them for the first time and wanted to put my step-by-step process in how I'm going to do this before attempting it. I would appreciate if anyone can point out any errors, give tips, or answer the confusions I have with doing this. My main concern is with desoldering and soldering, but I would also like any tips possible for the lubricating and modding I'm going to do after.

These are the materials I bought:

Soldering/Desoldering Kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09NY538F2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lubing:

Paint brushes (mainly for 0 and 1 size): https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07GH7WGC3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

G-lube: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DKDMJD9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dielectric grease: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AL2RI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Modding:

Neoprene 1/8" Foam: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DNHX992/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fabric bandages: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003M5LC34/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What the PCB supposedly looks like: https://imgur.com/a/H3iu7oK

The main concern I have is the fact that the LEDs are supposed to be desoldered as well with the switches in order to remove the switch. Is this necessary, or can I keep them there? If I do desolder the LEDs, is it as easy to put them back on as the switches, or does it get complicated from there? Do they have pins like the switch does?

Video:
Steps I'm taking:
1. Put on vinyl gloves, unscrew the keyboard and open it up (I'm not sure if using gloves is recommended for one session, is it better to use your bare hands? I only have vinyl gloves.)

2. Get the soldering kit ready, heat up soldering iron to about 380 degrees Celsius (Should I be going at a hotter or cooler temperature for the first time? Is there an optimal temperature range?)

3. With a toothpick, place a very small amount of flux on the pin that is to be desoldered. (This is probably not necessary, but the kit I bought does include flux so I thought a small amount couldn't hurt)

4. With the pump ready, put the soldering iron on the pin and pad at the same time, and with the pump close to the pin, as soon as you remove the iron release the pump on the solder leaving a very small gap of air to suck up the solder. Do the same for the LEDs that are soldered. (I'm guessing the LEDs have pins as well?)

5. After 5 or so switches, let the iron cool down and clean it using a damp sponge. (I'm not sure how frequent you should clean the iron or how cool the iron should be before cleaning it. Do you also clean it for soldering as well? For which process should you be cleaning it more frequently?

6. Once all of the switches are desoldered as well as the stabilizers, lube them with the G-lube and a size 0 paint brush. For the stabilizers apply a bit of dielectric grease. Would G-lube be a better choice for lubing the stabilizers, or dielectric grease? I think the grease is thicker, but I don't know if it really matters what I use.

7. When finished, solder back on the switches, LEDs, and stabilizers with the iron at around 360 degrees Celsius.

8. With a toothpick like in step 3, put a small amount before putting the iron on the pin and pad at the same time and slowly adding solder until the gold ring around the pin is covered by solder. Making sure the pin is still visible and the solder stays there for about 2 seconds maximum before letting it cool. For the LEDs, individually solder the 4 spots. Clean the iron in-between desoldering as required like in step 5. (I'm not sure if it's necessary to let the iron stay on the pin and pad for about 2 seconds before letting it cool, maybe it helps the form shape?

9. When all the parts are soldered, cut one 1/8" thick roll of neoprene foam to correct size on the base of the keyboard. Place the band aids under each of the spots where the stabilizers should be.

10. Assemble the keyboard and put the screws back.

This is my plan so far, haven't started yet but I'd greatly appreciate any feedback that can be given!

Sup:
I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy

ShangWang:

--- Quote from: Sup on Sat, 20 May 2023, 18:01:33 ---I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy

--- End quote ---

I see, it would definitely take a lot longer than usual to go through the process. The main reason for trying to finally mod my keyboard is because my w key for some reason has some kind of bad spring or tactile feel to it, it doesn't compress or decompress smoothly at certain angles.

I'm not really planning on getting a custom keyboard anytime soon, so I was hoping this keyboard would work out but of course being made from the factory it was prone to have some issues without proper lubrication, so I wanted to look into soldering to fix it.

Sup:

--- Quote from: ShangWang on Sat, 20 May 2023, 18:50:53 ---
--- Quote from: Sup on Sat, 20 May 2023, 18:01:33 ---I would not even try to desolder this board. Those RGB leds are going to be a pain in the ass. From what i can tell in order to remove the switch you will also need to desolder the leds. No fun times even for a experienced guy

--- End quote ---
Do you also know if the desoldering/soldering process for LEDs is the same process as the switch pins? Do the LEDs have some kind of pin or protrusion for you to touch with the iron and the pad, or is it not like that?

--- End quote ---

My advice is just don't do it. If it was SMD RGB then it was just the switches then mod away, but trust me you don't want to mess with those LEDs. Unless you want a board that has broken RGB.

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