Need help troubleshooting XD60 V2

[huskyhunter]

Hi, first time mechanical keyboard owner here, it was given to by a kind radditor and i love it.

a month ago while i was using the keyboard the ctrl,alt and win keys stopped working.

What i have tried.
Cleaning the switches with alcohol and replacing it with a working switch.

And it lead me to believe its the pcb thats faulty. I was told that the worse case would be that i would have to trace the pcb and jump a wire from a working switch.
I have never done that I would like to know on how to jump a wire and get it working. Is it possible trace the pcb without removing the plate. I cant remove the aluminum bracket cause that one switch has one thick leg. If theres better way to get the pcb working that would be great as well. Let me know if you need more information. added the images on imgur since i couldnt upload it here. https://imgur.com/a/QUH53VE

Thank you
 

[suicidal_orange]

Man that PCB looks like it's had a hard life.  Or maybe it's just really dirty?  From the state of the stabilisers I'll go with dirty and assume you're an expert desolderer.

If three switches in the bottom row don't work you probably have a break on the diode -> row connection so soldering a wire between the top of D15 near the dead switch and the top of D30 on the spacebar switches should fix all of them.  Diodes are pretty tough but try not to overheat them as they're not invincible.

Also give those stabs a clean and they will surely be smoother, I'd suggest you take it outside with some compressed air and a toothpick as it's going to get messy!

[huskyhunter]

Man that PCB looks like it's had a hard life.  Or maybe it's just really dirty?  From the state of the stabilisers I'll go with dirty and assume you're an expert desolderer.

If three switches in the bottom row don't work you probably have a break on the diode -> row connection so soldering a wire between the top of D15 near the dead switch and the top of D30 on the spacebar switches should fix all of them.  Diodes are pretty tough but try not to overheat them as they're not invincible.

Also give those stabs a clean and they will surely be smoother, I'd suggest you take it outside with some compressed air and a toothpick as it's going to get messy!

Thanks for replying and sorry for getting back to you this late. Ill try soldering a wire between D15 and D30 and see if it getting working and let you know. As for the dust its been laying around for few months so it collected some dust ill try cleaning and lubing the stabelizers. I really hope this works i really miss my mech keyboard.

Thanks again

[huskyhunter]

Man that PCB looks like it's had a hard life.  Or maybe it's just really dirty?  From the state of the stabilisers I'll go with dirty and assume you're an expert desolderer.

If three switches in the bottom row don't work you probably have a break on the diode -> row connection so soldering a wire between the top of D15 near the dead switch and the top of D30 on the spacebar switches should fix all of them.  Diodes are pretty tough but try not to overheat them as they're not invincible.

Also give those stabs a clean and they will surely be smoother, I'd suggest you take it outside with some compressed air and a toothpick as it's going to get messy!

Hey buddy,

After soldering a wire between the diods i was able to get it working flawlessly, You are a life a saver man thanks again i really appreciate your help and happy clicky clack.

[huskyhunter]

Man that PCB looks like it's had a hard life.  Or maybe it's just really dirty?  From the state of the stabilisers I'll go with dirty and assume you're an expert desolderer.

If three switches in the bottom row don't work you probably have a break on the diode -> row connection so soldering a wire between the top of D15 near the dead switch and the top of D30 on the spacebar switches should fix all of them.  Diodes are pretty tough but try not to overheat them as they're not invincible.

Also give those stabs a clean and they will surely be smoother, I'd suggest you take it outside with some compressed air and a toothpick as it's going to get messy!

Yoo it broke again this time Right Arrow, Del, Enter and Backspace, So basically the whole horizontal line on the right.

How do i prevet this from happening dont wanna end doing that to my whole keyboard if possible, the mini usb is kinda loose so it keeps disconnecting gotta plug the cable in a specific angle.

Thank you brotha you been a huge help.

[suicidal_orange]

A whole column - not good.  Looks like the broken trace is the green one:



I think I can read the chip as being the standard ATMel Mega 32u4 with the dot at the top but I'm doubting it because it appears that a pin is used that isn't named in the pinout.  If I've seen something wrong go no further and correct me!

After reading the firmware the green trace should be connected to the green pin on the corner of the chip, so try touching a wire between the diode of one of the dead switches and that pin on the chip.  If it works you should be able to solder to that pin then to the pin at the end of the green trace, you may also need to connect to the non diode pin of the switch above and/or below.

How to stop breaking it?  Leave the switches soldered in   If you didn't desolder it again the damage is already done and you'll have to live with whatever happens unfortunately.  Nothing wrong with hiding a bunch of jumpers in your keyboard case as long as it works...

I can't make out what kind of USB port it is (through hole or surface mount), is it the insides that are snapped or the pads disconnecting from the PCB?  If it's internal and surface mount you could replace it, if it's the pads they're probably too small to do anything with.

[huskyhunter]

A whole column - not good.  Looks like the broken trace is the green one:

(Attachment Link)

I think I can read the chip as being the standard ATMel Mega 32u4 with the dot at the top but I'm doubting it because it appears that a pin is used that isn't named in the pinout.  If I've seen something wrong go no further and correct me!

After reading the firmware the green trace should be connected to the green pin on the corner of the chip, so try touching a wire between the diode of one of the dead switches and that pin on the chip.  If it works you should be able to solder to that pin then to the pin at the end of the green trace, you may also need to connect to the non diode pin of the switch above and/or below.

How to stop breaking it?  Leave the switches soldered in   If you didn't desolder it again the damage is already done and you'll have to live with whatever happens unfortunately.  Nothing wrong with hiding a bunch of jumpers in your keyboard case as long as it works...

I can't make out what kind of USB port it is (through hole or surface mount), is it the insides that are snapped or the pads disconnecting from the PCB?  If it's internal and surface mount you could replace it, if it's the pads they're probably too small to do anything with.

Yes, you are right the chipset is ATmega32U4.

This time i didnt desolder the switches last time i thought i would have to remove the bracket.

Ill try connecting the green pin to one of the dead switch you have shown in the pic.

The PCB has 2 holes + and -, port legs are soldered to + and -, So you think i can solder a type C port to it ?. Ill have to remove the bracket to access the legs to desolder it. I might be able to poke around through the holes. The cable sits loose so i was thinking that might be the cause why the diod dies cause it keeps reconnecting when move the cable.

Thanks man ill let you know if i get it to work or not.

[suicidal_orange]

The PCB has 2 holes + and -, port legs are soldered to + and -, So you think i can solder a type C port to it ?

If there are extra holes connected along the trace you can certainly solder a separate port to them, you'll need all four though - 5V, data + and - and ground.  5V and ground are usually fat traces so easy to follow.  USB-C connectors are a bit of a mess depending what's on the other end of the cable so have a read around before buying one.

[huskyhunter]

The PCB has 2 holes + and -, port legs are soldered to + and -, So you think i can solder a type C port to it ?

If there are extra holes connected along the trace you can certainly solder a separate port to them, you'll need all four though - 5V, data + and - and ground.  5V and ground are usually fat traces so easy to follow.  USB-C connectors are a bit of a mess depending what's on the other end of the cable so have a read around before buying one.

I think its not worth the trouble i would have to de solder every switch to get gasket out of the way to solder it.

Sorry for the late reply i dont know why the cookies get me banned every time on this site so have to clear the cookies.

Thanks for the help haven't tried the fix yet lost my solder tip lol.

Btw can you explain what you mean by this. " you may also need to connect to the non diode pin of the switch above and/or below."

[suicidal_orange]

The switch pin hole at the end of the green line is probably damaged (unless you can see a cut somewhere else along the green line) so that hole may need reconnecting to the lower/right hole of the switch above and/or below, depending how broken it is.  Connect it to the chip first and if it all works great, if not and only that one switch works you need the extra jumper(s).

[huskyhunter]

The switch pin hole at the end of the green line is probably damaged (unless you can see a cut somewhere else along the green line) so that hole may need reconnecting to the lower/right hole of the switch above and/or below, depending how broken it is.  Connect it to the chip first and if it all works great, if not and only that one switch works you need the extra jumper(s).

Looks like I wont have to do that, I tried touching a wire from the pin to a dead switch diod and the column started working. Thanks man you been a huge help i bought RK G68 and its been great i landed XD60V2 to my cousin his been wanting it for a while now. 

[huskyhunter]

The switch pin hole at the end of the green line is probably damaged (unless you can see a cut somewhere else along the green line) so that hole may need reconnecting to the lower/right hole of the switch above and/or below, depending how broken it is.  Connect it to the chip first and if it all works great, if not and only that one switch works you need the extra jumper(s).

So uh, another column stopped working and right shift.

[suicidal_orange]

I know I said there's nothing wrong with filling your case with jumper wires but this is getting ridiculous

So Shift being a single dead key the problem is probably on the diode side - touch the blue pad to the end of the diode on the purple line and it should type shift, if so solder between the diode and pad along the purple line.

The whole column is going to be on the same row as the last one - if I'm counting correctly I've put the yellow and pink dots on the right keys, if not pretend I did using the dead column.  Touch yellow to the purple pin on the chip (don't worry about hitting the pins either side, they'll survive) and it should type N.  Yellow to the purple square on the ISP header should also type N and if it does that's a much easier place to solder to.  You will need to solder between the bottom pink switch pin and purple, and maybe between the two pinks to reconnect the rest of the column.

[huskyhunter]

I know I said there's nothing wrong with filling your case with jumper wires but this is getting ridiculous

Show Image

So Shift being a single dead key the problem is probably on the diode side - touch the blue pad to the end of the diode on the purple line and it should type shift, if so solder between the diode and pad along the purple line.

The whole column is going to be on the same row as the last one - if I'm counting correctly I've put the yellow and pink dots on the right keys, if not pretend I did using the dead column.  Touch yellow to the purple pin on the chip (don't worry about hitting the pins either side, they'll survive) and it should type N.  Yellow to the purple square on the ISP header should also type N and if it does that's a much easier place to solder to.  You will need to solder between the bottom pink switch pin and purple, and maybe between the two pinks to reconnect the rest of the column.

Can you mark it on this pic ignore the corrosion for now dont have any alcohol besides me imma clean it later.

[suicidal_orange]

Sorry, clearly there was supposed to be a pic attached to my post - I'll add it now

[huskyhunter]

Sorry, clearly there was supposed to be a pic attached to my post - I'll add it now

So i tested the purple icsp pinout and yellow dead switch. sadly while i was brushing it up i broke the white wire and tried to solder it on and broke the pin on the chip. is there a way get the other column working and only sometimes B works.

[suicidal_orange]

If you've broken the pin on the chip you can use a different one but you will no longer have an XD60 when it comes to firmware, it will be a custom board.  There are supposedly two unused pins, both in the middle of a side on the chip so very hard to solder to.  I've heard of a PCB repair shop saying it's impossible though the newbie who took it in managed to solder it   One of them looks unused but the other has a trace and seems to head towards the USB port, I can't work out where but have to assume it's useful.  This leaves two options - the pins used for the per key LED backlight and the one for Caps Lock.  If you can live without one of them you can swap the pins in the firmware and there will be a handy place to solder to.  Assuming all the LED pads are dirty not pulled out...

B is probably the same as Shift - the diode needs reconnecting.  You can see the L shaped trace leading from the higher switch pins to the diode so solder another little jumper.

[huskyhunter]

If you've broken the pin on the chip you can use a different one but you will no longer have an XD60 when it comes to firmware, it will be a custom board.  There are supposedly two unused pins, both in the middle of a side on the chip so very hard to solder to.  I've heard of a PCB repair shop saying it's impossible though the newbie who took it in managed to solder it   One of them looks unused but the other has a trace and seems to head towards the USB port, I can't work out where but have to assume it's useful.  This leaves two options - the pins used for the per key LED backlight and the one for Caps Lock.  If you can live without one of them you can swap the pins in the firmware and there will be a handy place to solder to.  Assuming all the LED pads are dirty not pulled out...

B is probably the same as Shift - the diode needs reconnecting.  You can see the L shaped trace leading from the higher switch pins to the diode so solder another little jumper.

I see thats really good to know that there are still few pins left that i can use. So i can still use via itll just show a different name thats no problem with me. By backlight you mean the led lights at the back or those onboard per switch led lights ?. if you saying per switch led backlights then ill go with that since there are no backlight on per switch soldered on the board. i am using capslocks as "?/"

Can you point it out me too nab at this.

[suicidal_orange]

I've had a play but can't get anything to compile - very strange.

If you don't use the LED in the "Caps Lock" switch all you need to do to use that pin is change the 2's to 3's on these lines in xd60.h

Code: [Select]

inline void xd60_caps_led_on(void)    { DDRB |=  (1<<2); PORTB &= ~(1<<2); }

inline void xd60_caps_led_off(void)   { DDRB &= ~(1<<2); PORTB &= ~(1<<2); }
Then in rev2/config.h change the B3 at the end of the column pins to B2 and the B2 for CAPS_LOCK to B3 on these lines.

Code: [Select]

#define MATRIX_COL_PINS { F0, F1, E6, C7, C6, B6, D4, B1, B7, B5, B4, D7, D6, B3 }

#define CAPS_LOCK_LED_PIN B2
and compile it.

Using the backlight pin is not so easy as it's attached to a dimmer circuit - that was a first thing in the morning not awake suggestion!  Using it would require working out where it goes and removing the component so that's the last option to try.

[huskyhunter]

I've had a play but can't get anything to compile - very strange.

If you don't use the LED in the "Caps Lock" switch all you need to do to use that pin is change the 2's to 3's on these lines in xd60.h

Code: [Select]

inline void xd60_caps_led_on(void)    { DDRB |=  (1<<2); PORTB &= ~(1<<2); }

inline void xd60_caps_led_off(void)   { DDRB &= ~(1<<2); PORTB &= ~(1<<2); }
Then in rev2/config.h change the B3 at the end of the column pins to B2 and the B2 for CAPS_LOCK to B3 on these lines.

Code: [Select]

#define MATRIX_COL_PINS { F0, F1, E6, C7, C6, B6, D4, B1, B7, B5, B4, D7, D6, B3 }

#define CAPS_LOCK_LED_PIN B2
and compile it.

Using the backlight pin is not so easy as it's attached to a dimmer circuit - that was a first thing in the morning not awake suggestion!  Using it would require working out where it goes and removing the component so that's the last option to try.

 

Code: [Select]

#define CAPS_LOCK_LED_PIN B2 line is missing from rev2/config.h should i just add it in there ?.
So i just compiled with the via keymap and i can use VIA tho i was wondering me just specifying keymap folder uses the same config files that are in the root folder xd60.h and rev2/config.h.

I solderd the wire from icsp to N and right shift and B started working as well didnt need to do extra soldering

https://imgur.com/a/6761N2w

[suicidal_orange]

If it does everything you want don't worry about the missing line, the pin is dead and not connected to the LED so it wont work anyway.

Are all keys working now?  I think something needs connecting to one of the Caps lock LED pins but can't get my head round what