[GB] TMK Alps64 - 60% PCB for Alps

[menuhin]

Where did you get the blue caps?
...

https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.0

[dante]

Hi Hasu,

Perhaps I'm dream-talking, here is an idea to make the Alps64 greater even to different degree among all the PCBs that support Alps switches:

Many users have many switches they want to try out, but may not want to own too many keyboards.
E3E mentioned the hotswappable Holtites size that fits the Alps pin in his build log acquisition section. By making the PCB pin hole sizes compatible with the correct receptacles, and providing also the Holtites receptacles for the switches in the kit, the Alps64 kit can become a hotswappable PCB kit for Alps switches.

"Hotswappable Alps64 kit" is just an extra idea on top of this constantly refined PCB for Alps.

I also like the idea of Hotswappable Alps64!  I recently took a siesta from mechanical keyboards and went back to rubberdomes because I got tired of the chattering nonsense.  Now that hotswap is coming to MX I'm returning to empty my wallet again.  So yes, something like this would make me pull out the plastic.

Speaking of PCB changes and dreams:

Hasu, do you want to help save planet earth?  Do you want to make sure people have clean drinking water without keyboards in their rivers?  How about adding SMK Monterey support?  I know you've said no before but maybe you've changed your mind since?  Think about all those Monterey Blues and Whites polluting people's drinking water and how you can create a demand for them so that the keyboards are properly recycled.

Think about the children!

[tofgerl]

A tiny bit off topic, but this is the best active thread for Alps I could find..

I'm putting my alpine winter caps on the board I originally built a year ago, and these stabilizers are SO HORRIBLE!! Is there any way I could get a set of the stabs that came with the Apple AEK2 or something instead? I have those on my other Alps64 (with the keys from the same keyboard) and they're just so much better to work with!
Are Matias really the only choice...?

[spuxx]

I also have a small question regarding the Alpine Winter set: I ordered a Alps64 PCB and will be using the Alpine Winter set on it, now my question is, whether to use plate mount cherry stabs or costar stabs. I'll order my plate from Lasergist directly. I'd rather use cherry stabs, but I fear there might be problems with the tolerances between switch and stabs and also stab undersides and PCB.

Has anyone used the Alps64 PCB with a plate featuring cherry plate mount stabs? Have there been any problems with fitting?

[ragsmaroon]

I sent an email in for an invoice 2 days ago and I haven't gotten an invoice for paypal. Is this group buy still going on?

[hasu]

GB Update

All pcbs from 1st batch were gone and are being soldered and tested as planned, they will be shipped in this week hoepfully.
Now I'm setting up for 2nd batch, mid of Feb will be shipping date for them unless it suffers from China's Spring Fes.

I sent an email in for an invoice 2 days ago and I haven't gotten an invoice for paypal. Is this group buy still going on?

I'll send invoice for 2nd batch pcbs soon later.

Thanks.

[schoolbus]

anyone know if hasu's PCB would work with sentraq's universal plate on an AEK 2 style layout?

https://sentraq.com/collections/parts-1/products/60-aluminum-plate-1

thanks~!

[spuxx]

anyone know if hasu's PCB would work with sentraq's universal plate on an AEK 2 style layout?

https://sentraq.com/collections/parts-1/products/60-aluminum-plate-1

thanks~!

I guess the stabilizers might be a problem: Since hasu's PCB does not support PCB-mount Cherry stabilizers, you can only use plate mount stabilizers. This will be a problem, especially for the enter stabilizers, since the second stabilizer on the right of the enter switch won't be able to clip into the plate on the top because of the cutout for ISO compatibility.

[schoolbus]

anyone know if hasu's PCB would work with sentraq's universal plate on an AEK 2 style layout?

https://sentraq.com/collections/parts-1/products/60-aluminum-plate-1

thanks~!

I guess the stabilizers might be a problem: Since hasu's PCB does not support PCB-mount Cherry stabilizers, you can only use plate mount stabilizers. This will be a problem, especially for the enter stabilizers, since the second stabilizer on the right of the enter switch won't be able to clip into the plate on the top because of the cutout for ISO compatibility.

yeah I realized it's pretty much not possible lol, appreciate it!

[smittysteve]

This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.

But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.

Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!

[lishi]

This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.

But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.

Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!

Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switches





edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0

[smittysteve]

This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.

But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.

Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!

Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switches

Show Image

edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0

Thanks for the reply. My old Salmon Alps board is indeed an M0116, so I'm all set there. Now just need to sort out a plate. Happy to go in on a little mini-buy with others here. Not sure if it helps pricing any with Lasergist, but I'm out of my element with designing plates, so I'd appreciate the chance to piggyback with anyone else who may be interested in an HHKB Alps.  :thumb:

That Revo HHKB case looks gorgeous. I'm waiting on the Dr. D TKL board from Revo right now- would love to go in on the HHKB as well, we'll see about those buggery finances.

[schoolbus]

This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.

But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.

Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!

Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switches

Show Image

edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0

Thanks for the reply. My old Salmon Alps board is indeed an M0116, so I'm all set there. Now just need to sort out a plate. Happy to go in on a little mini-buy with others here. Not sure if it helps pricing any with Lasergist, but I'm out of my element with designing plates, so I'd appreciate the chance to piggyback with anyone else who may be interested in an HHKB Alps.  :thumb:

That Revo HHKB case looks gorgeous. I'm waiting on the Dr. D TKL board from Revo right now- would love to go in on the HHKB as well, we'll see about those buggery finances.

Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.

[MandrewDavis]

Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.

Honestly I don't think that will be worth anyone's while. Lasergist offers free worldwide shipping from Greece and their volume discount they me offered for 10+ plates was only about 10%. Once the GB runner reships everything it may be more expensive than everyone ordering individually. If anyone is interested in ordering from Lasergist, for the same price as 1.5mm they have a 1.2mm option which is closer to Alps spec than 1.0mm.

[schoolbus]

Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.

Honestly I don't think that will be worth anyone's while. Lasergist offers free worldwide shipping from Greece and their volume discount they me offered for 10+ plates was only about 10%. Once the GB runner reships everything it may be more expensive than everyone ordering individually. If anyone is interested in ordering from Lasergist, for the same price as 1.5mm they have a 1.2mm option which is closer to Alps spec than 1.0mm.

Oh yeah, I don't disagree if Lasergist is the option, and it's probably what makes the most sense anyway. From looking at old runs it seems like some members have access/connections with equipment that could produce the plates cheaper if there's some volume.

Probably makes most sense to just do Laser though, sounds like it'd be a lot of effort/time to maybe save $10-20.

[smittysteve]

Definitely interested if someone wants to run a buy for plates, otherwise Lasergist seems to be the best option.

Honestly I don't think that will be worth anyone's while. Lasergist offers free worldwide shipping from Greece and their volume discount they me offered for 10+ plates was only about 10%. Once the GB runner reships everything it may be more expensive than everyone ordering individually. If anyone is interested in ordering from Lasergist, for the same price as 1.5mm they have a 1.2mm option which is closer to Alps spec than 1.0mm.

Oh yeah, I don't disagree if Lasergist is the option, and it's probably what makes the most sense anyway. From looking at old runs it seems like some members have access/connections with equipment that could produce the plates cheaper if there's some volume.

Probably makes most sense to just do Laser though, sounds like it'd be a lot of effort/time to maybe save $10-20.

Thanks- good information here too and I agree, not worth organizing a buy for the cost savings.

However, for the savings of pulling my hair out figuring out the plate layout, etc., is there an Alps HHKB plate file that anyone is willing to share that I could order from Lasergist?

[Hypersphere]

I have a 60% board with the Alps64 PCB. A few of the Alps switches are exhibiting intermittent chatter, which has not been consistently helped by cleaning, canned air, or contact cleaner. Might it help to change the debounce setting? If so, exactly how is this done?

BTW, I used Atmel FLIP 3.4.7 in Windows 8.1 to install the hex file for my layout, and I used Hasu's online configurator to produce the hex file, so I did not need to use a make file to build anything. However, if changing the debounce setting involves using the command line, I have a Linux machine, and I would prefer doing it in Linux rather than dealing with CygWin, etc. in Windows.

Thanks.

[need]

I have a 60% board with the Alps64 PCB. A few of the Alps switches are exhibiting intermittent chatter, which has not been consistently helped by cleaning, canned air, or contact cleaner. Might it help to change the debounce setting? If so, exactly how is this done?

BTW, I used Atmel FLIP 3.4.7 in Windows 8.1 to install the hex file for my layout, and I used Hasu's online configurator to produce the hex file, so I did not need to use a make file to build anything. However, if changing the debounce setting involves using the command line, I have a Linux machine, and I would prefer doing it in Linux rather than dealing with CygWin, etc. in Windows.

Thanks.

Pretty sure it's not a debounce issue. I've had this problem before, and it's eliminated after a few attempts in adjusting the contact leafs. By bending it in order to enlarge or reduce the angle.

[hasu]

I have a 60% board with the Alps64 PCB. A few of the Alps switches are exhibiting intermittent chatter, which has not been consistently helped by cleaning, canned air, or contact cleaner. Might it help to change the debounce setting? If so, exactly how is this done?

BTW, I used Atmel FLIP 3.4.7 in Windows 8.1 to install the hex file for my layout, and I used Hasu's online configurator to produce the hex file, so I did not need to use a make file to build anything. However, if changing the debounce setting involves using the command line, I have a Linux machine, and I would prefer doing it in Linux rather than dealing with CygWin, etc. in Windows.

Thanks.

You can configure denounce value in config.h and have to compile firmware with tool chain.
It is safe to set 10 or below, I think. But try various settings.

Sent from my Nexus 5X

[hasu]

need, good to know that. Interesting.

Sent from my Nexus 5X

[hasu]

GB Update

Batch.1: Part of PCBs were shipped today, rest will be posted on next week.

Batch.2: Taking orders. PCB are producing in China now, estimated shipping date is mid of Feb at this point.

Thank you

[smittysteve]

This is such a cool project- I had been wanting to do an Alps board for a while. Thanks to Hasu, I have one of these fine PCBs on its way to me and a beautiful set of Salmon Alps from an Apple board of my youth waiting to be harvested.

But now, unsure what to do about the plate. Does anyone have a suggestion for an off-the-shelf Alps-compatible 60% (or HHKB... am I totally dreaming?) plate that also allow plate-mount stabs? This seems quite a tall order, so I'm willing to go the Lasergist route, but have never done that before and have no idea about the process (getting the right plate schematic, etc...) for doing that right.

Hoping that as this is the 8th run of these plates, there are some ideas out there. Thanks very much for any help!

Ive actually been planning on getting a plate cut by lasergist or some other place for an hhkb layout alps board for use with the upcoming Revo HHKB case. There's some problems with the plate currently, there isn't the guiding bar for the spacebar and to actually use this layout you'll need to buy a M0116 to harvest the 1.75 keycap off of it, but I'm gonna try to get a plate cut out of acrylic or MDF or something and do a test fit first with stabs and switches

Show Image

edit: there's also this link for alps plates https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.0

Thanks very much for the link above. I ordered one from Lasergist last night. Very excited about this build!!  :thumb: :thumb:

[SJHL]

Hopefully Hasu doesnt mind but I got a spare plate for the pcb from Lasergist. It's Tsangan layout with split backspace.

[smittysteve]

Hi All- silly question, but I may have goofed.

I got so excited about the HHKB plate and the PCBs shipping that I ordered the Lasergist plate last night... only to notice in the OP this morning that HHKB isn't indicated as a supported layout by the PCB. Can anyone confirm whether the TMK Alps 64 PCB will or will not support the HHKB layout? 

Thanks!

[axtran]

It does. It was an option during ALPS Party.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[smittysteve]

It does. It was an option during ALPS Party.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Phew! Thanks for the response. 

[SJHL]

Hi All- silly question, but I may have goofed.

I got so excited about the HHKB plate and the PCBs shipping that I ordered the Lasergist plate last night... only to notice in the OP this morning that HHKB isn't indicated as a supported layout by the PCB. Can anyone confirm whether the TMK Alps 64 PCB will or will not support the HHKB layout? 

Thanks!

It works. I have it on mine.

[cgbuen]

Hahahha, I finally just put together my AEKII layout build after a year of sitting on a bunch of these parts (and over 2 years for some parts even). Kept hitting little snags, particularly with stabilizers but whatever, I made it work tonight.. sadly though the spacebar and right shift don't really feel perfect.

Did this come shipped without an FN key for the AEKII layout? Can't seem to get Esc or arrow key access right off the bat.

[hasu]

Iirc, earlier revision PCB were shipped with very plain keymap without FN key.

The latest revisions are shipped with keymap with FN on App aka menu key on right bottom.

Sent from my Nexus 5X

EDIT: ah, RGUI, not App key . It is next to right most on bottom row.

[hasu]

GB Update

Shipped all of PCBs form Batch.1 today! You will receive an email with tracking number from Japan Post, the email is sometime filtered as a spam, check your junk mail foldter too. If you don't receive tracking number in three days let me know.
If your 'invoice ID' is lower than or equal  to 420 your PCB belongs to Batch.1, otherwise to Batch.2.

PCBs from Batch.2 are still available and will be shipped until mid of Feb hopefully.

Thank you

[eddible]

Got mine, thanks for such a quick turn around! What's the estimated ship time to the UK?

[FearsomeCubedWarrior]

~

[tinyprawn]

I was able to largely eliminate the ping by cutting up some old mouse pads and putting them between the PCB and case. Mostly eliminated the ping.

Oddly enough I was looking around for a nice nonconductice squishy material to do just that. It seems like it should help but I'm not sure why. I'll try old mousepads and see.

Just to close the loop on this... I switched the PCB and Plate into an aluminum case and the ping is entirely gone. Have no idea why plastic vs aluminum case would matter this much, but I'm a happy camper now.

Sadly, I now have to buy more aluminum cases for my upcoming builds because I am out of them now.

[2ZQ]

Just got my tracking. On delivery right now! I can finish the build tonight after work! Thanks Hasu!

[cgbuen]

Iirc, earlier revision PCB were shipped with very plain keymap without FN key.

The latest revisions are shipped with keymap with FN on App aka menu key on right bottom.

Sent from my Nexus 5X

EDIT: ah, RGUI, not App key . It is next to right most on bottom row.

Makes sense since I've sat on it for so long. Thanks for the heads up.

[Captainbuttmonkey]

Received mine in the UK yesterday, many thanks.

[Captainbuttmonkey]

Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks

[hasu]

Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks

Yeah, the LED should blink at pluging in, something goes wrong. I'd know which it is PCB hardware fault or firmware problem.
I guess I removed firmware accidentally during testing process and shipped your PCB without firmware. This can be happen in good chance.

What if you press button on the PCB while pluging in? Pressing the button starts bootloader and the PCB goes into  programming mode to flash firmware.
Open "Device Manager" and see if something will happen, it usually makes ding sound and redraws its device tree view to update info when new device is detected.

You will see bootloader device "ATmega32U2 DFU" when you don't have driver installed or "ATmega32U2" when you have proper driver. See pics in link below. And install driver to flash firmware if needed, see instruction in the link.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/Driver-install-on-Windows#device-name

Can you find the deivce on Device Manager?

[Captainbuttmonkey]

Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks

Yeah, the LED should blink at pluging in, something goes wrong. I'd know which it is PCB hardware fault or firmware problem.
I guess I removed firmware accidentally during testing process and shipped your PCB without firmware. This can be happen in good chance.

What if you press button on the PCB while pluging in? Pressing the button starts bootloader and the PCB goes into  programming mode to flash firmware.
Open "Device Manager" and see if something will happen, it usually makes ding sound and redraws its device tree view to update info when new device is detected.

You will see bootloader device "ATmega32U2 DFU" when you don't have driver installed or "ATmega32U2" when you have proper driver. See pics in link below. And install driver to flash firmware if needed, see instruction in the link.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/Driver-install-on-Windows#device-name

Can you find the deivce on Device Manager?

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately nothing happens in device manager when I plug it in with or without the button pressed. No sound or anything appearing in the device tree.

[hasu]

Unfortunately I think my pcb may be doa. First thing I did was test it and I'm getting nothing =[. LED didn't illuminate and there was no reaction from windows upon plugging it in. I tried shorting a pad in notepad, which also resulted in nothing. Any advice? thanks

Yeah, the LED should blink at pluging in, something goes wrong. I'd know which it is PCB hardware fault or firmware problem.
I guess I removed firmware accidentally during testing process and shipped your PCB without firmware. This can be happen in good chance.

What if you press button on the PCB while pluging in? Pressing the button starts bootloader and the PCB goes into  programming mode to flash firmware.
Open "Device Manager" and see if something will happen, it usually makes ding sound and redraws its device tree view to update info when new device is detected.

You will see bootloader device "ATmega32U2 DFU" when you don't have driver installed or "ATmega32U2" when you have proper driver. See pics in link below. And install driver to flash firmware if needed, see instruction in the link.
https://github.com/tmk/tmk_keyboard/wiki/Driver-install-on-Windows#device-name

Can you find the deivce on Device Manager?

Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately nothing happens in device manager when I plug it in with or without the button pressed. No sound or anything appearing in the device tree.

Thanks for your time. Email me anyway.
Could you try the PCB with another USB cable, USB ports or computer lastly If you didn't yet?

[Captainbuttmonkey]

Yeh, I had already tried a different port and cable, just tried another pc now and unfortunately the same result. Sure I'll shoot you an e-mail now, thanks.

[Ail]

Got my PCB today, thanks Hasu! So excited, now I just have to figure out what layout, plate and case I want to use.

[apprentice57]

Just bought a M0115 on ebay, trying to decide whether I wanna go the 60% route, or just get an iMate and call it a day.

Is it really do-able to cut the plate to size? Seems like it would take a while, and I'd have to get a good saw just for the purpose. Also, wouldn't you need to a drill to make screw holes? I'd have to get one of those too.

If so, getting a plate cut by lasergist is probably the cheaper option (plus it leave the opportunity to put some Matias switches into the apple board should I so choose). But when I grab the files hasu listed for lasergist's form, it requires the height, width, and path length (all in mm). How would I go about getting those numbers? Someone online mentioned solidworks, but that software is pretty expensive.

Plus, lasergist wants a .pdf, .ai, or .dwg file so the .dxf I'm getting from hasu isn't gonna cut it. I don't have the CAD knowledge to really know the difference.

EDIT:
Didn't think to check the other thread, which answered my question about the path length. In case someone googles the issue, here is the solution:

Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.

I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).

You can get the length with QCAD or LibreCAD.
1) Select all of the paths with Menu: Select > Select All
2) Go to Menu: Info > Total length of ...
http://www.qcad.org/doc/qcad/3.15.4/reference/en/scripts/Pro/Information/InfoTotalLength/doc/InfoTotalLength_en.html

Measured alps64_aek_plate.dxf with LibreCAD:

Total Length of selected entities: 4422.0681

Still curious about thoughts on cutting the plate and the relevant tools

[happylacquer]

Emailing! Oh boy

[smittysteve]

Just bought a M0115 on ebay, trying to decide whether I wanna go the 60% route, or just get an iMate and call it a day.

Is it really do-able to cut the plate to size? Seems like it would take a while, and I'd have to get a good saw just for the purpose. Also, wouldn't you need to a drill to make screw holes? I'd have to get one of those too.

If so, getting a plate cut by lasergist is probably the cheaper option (plus it leave the opportunity to put some Matias switches into the apple board should I so choose). But when I grab the files hasu listed for lasergist's form, it requires the height, width, and path length (all in mm). How would I go about getting those numbers? Someone online mentioned solidworks, but that software is pretty expensive.

Plus, lasergist wants a .pdf, .ai, or .dwg file so the .dxf I'm getting from hasu isn't gonna cut it. I don't have the CAD knowledge to really know the difference.

EDIT:
Didn't think to check the other thread, which answered my question about the path length. In case someone googles the issue, here is the solution:

Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.

I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).

You can get the length with QCAD or LibreCAD.
1) Select all of the paths with Menu: Select > Select All
2) Go to Menu: Info > Total length of ...
http://www.qcad.org/doc/qcad/3.15.4/reference/en/scripts/Pro/Information/InfoTotalLength/doc/InfoTotalLength_en.html

Measured alps64_aek_plate.dxf with LibreCAD:

Total Length of selected entities: 4422.0681

Still curious about thoughts on cutting the plate and the relevant tools

Also, just as an FYI to all… Lasergist will just calculate the path length for you, once you have uploaded the template file. I just ordered a plate through them and had a very smooth experience, one day turnaround on design... Shipped in about three days. Really looking forward to this build… Will post glamour shots when complete.

[happylacquer]

What cases is everyone using for this? going for AEK layout myself

[hasu]

apprentice57,
I don't recommend to cut plate with hand saw unless you have plenty time to kill But it is certainly do-able if you are very patient and don't care appearance of choped plate. And yea you have to make holes and cutouts of sides to access screws. Chopped plate works well for me at least. See my mod log and imgur album in first post of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0

If M0115 still keeps good shape and you don't dislike its size iMate is reasonable option. TMK ADB converter is viable optiton too, of course!

[eddible]

Received my PCB today, works great. Thanks a lot!

[apprentice57]

apprentice57,
I don't recommend to cut plate with hand saw unless you have plenty time to kill But it is certainly do-able if you are very patient and don't care appearance of choped plate. And yea you have to make holes and cutouts of sides to access screws. Chopped plate works well for me at least. See my mod log and imgur album in first post of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0

If M0115 still keeps good shape and you don't dislike its size iMate is reasonable option. TMK ADB converter is viable optiton too, of course!

Yeah, good point. I think I'm trashing the hand saw idea. If I go that route I'd probably get a dremel. Could I just make do with a dremel and powered hand drill you think?

iMate is looking more ideal now, I didn't realize the prices had gone down to ~$30 on ebay. They used to be higher.

I actually discovered an Apple II GS keyboard (Salmon ALPS) in my Grandma's cellar. She said she missed typing on it, so I took it home and gave it a clean, retrobright treatment and then bought an iMate. It was like $70 back then though :/. It's her daily driver now I'm happy to report.

[keruibo]

apprentice57,
I don't recommend to cut plate with hand saw unless you have plenty time to kill But it is certainly do-able if you are very patient and don't care appearance of choped plate. And yea you have to make holes and cutouts of sides to access screws. Chopped plate works well for me at least. See my mod log and imgur album in first post of this thread. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69666.0

If M0115 still keeps good shape and you don't dislike its size iMate is reasonable option. TMK ADB converter is viable optiton too, of course!

Yeah, good point. I think I'm trashing the hand saw idea. If I go that route I'd probably get a dremel. Could I just make do with a dremel and powered hand drill you think?

iMate is looking more ideal now, I didn't realize the prices had gone down to ~$30 on ebay. They used to be higher.

I actually discovered an Apple II GS keyboard (Salmon ALPS) in my Grandma's cellar. She said she missed typing on it, so I took it home and gave it a clean, retrobright treatment and then bought an iMate. It was like $70 back then though :/. It's her daily driver now I'm happy to report.

Hi apprentice57,

I'm in the same dilemma as you -- the M0115 is great board!  A 60% version would also be great! 

While waiting for the 60% Alps64 PCB, I restored the m0115 I bought as the donor: Retrobright, superlubed the coil springs (to eliminate the orange switch's ping), replaced the caps lock with a standard orange switch & jumpered that key on the board to change it to a control key. Using iMate, which works beautifully.  So now I have a great board that I just can't bear to use as a donor anymore ;->

So while I'm keeping the m0115 I'll still will be doing a 60% Alps64 board -- using an m3501 donor that had a crap case not worth restoring anyway....

For cutting the plate, I'll be using a 4" angle grinder with a cutting wheel, c-clamps to hold the plate on the bench.  Should make quick work of a thin metal plate...

Best of luck on your project!


--RK