Maybe someone could simply design a 5x4 keypad with the same footprint (front-to-back) as the GH60, as a small add-on to the 60% keyboard. You could program those keys to be anything you want, from a 10-key, to F-keys, to cursor arrows, etc. And you could place it to the right or left of your GH60, per your personal preference. Just thinking out loud here.
So, like this:
I was working on this for a while, then stopped, I wanted it to compliment my poker, but never got around to any kind of implementation. The other problem is that I wanted to design a case that sort of matched, and that involved trying to learn Blender or something, and I wasn't very good at that.
Yum!
I think a 7x4 keypad would be cool. I like some extra keys.
Edit: wow, post number 8 for me, I'm on a roll ;D
Maybe someone could simply design a 5x4 keypad with the same footprint (front-to-back) as the GH60, as a small add-on to the 60% keyboard. You could program those keys to be anything you want, from a 10-key, to F-keys, to cursor arrows, etc. And you could place it to the right or left of your GH60, per your personal preference. Just thinking out loud here.
So, like this:
(Attachment Link)
I was working on this for a while, then stopped, I wanted it to compliment my poker, but never got around to any kind of implementation. The other problem is that I wanted to design a case that sort of matched, and that involved trying to learn Blender or something, and I wasn't very good at that.
I am expecting some cheaper quotes back on some cases atm.I might throw in a prototype numpad case too if you decide the size of the PCB quickly.
Edit: I would be all for 4x6, 5x6 or 6x6.
5x6 has the advantage of being able to be turned and be used with a 5 row keyboard as well as a 6 row keyboard and still match the depth.
I was just hoping for 4x5, so it would be the correct size as a normal 10 key without any additional keys on the top or side. There is already too many commercial keypad in those other size which is not a good fit aesthetically next to 60% at all. I think it would be better to match the size 100% and have same case style with same angle, so rotating is no option in such a case.
So, first, this seems to get all 1x1 or standard keypad config with the 1x2 0/Ins, Enter and + keys... but there's no room for the controller bits...
So, first, this seems to get all 1x1 or standard keypad config with the 1x2 0/Ins, Enter and + keys... but there's no room for the controller bits...
I'm loving this design. Is there enough room between 4 normal keys, say, the 2,3,5, and 6? What if you rotate the ATmega 45 degrees? You could also flip the switches 1:1 and 2:1 by 180 degrees and orient them upside down, to give more room there.
I think it would fit, as this does not have in-switch LED diode pads to deal with. Also, you could orient 2 of the switches upside down to give more clearance between the pads, like is done on the Phantom at number row 4 and 5. I could be mistaken, though. I wish I knew how to use KiCAD.
Sorry, I'm not trying to hijack this thread or anything going off on a tangent...I'd be in for at least 3 PCBs!
SNIP
Thanks, samwisekoi for splitting this into its own thread for us! GHpad FTW! :D
Will it be 6 row like the Gh++, breakway or more like the "original" GH60 with 5 rows?
Poker, Pure and GH60 vs Race, Choc Mini, LZ Mini, KS Mini and GH60++
Vote?
I vote 5x6, as it can be turned to match both 5 and 6 row. Add a couple of places where you can place the feet underneath and it will be able to tilt in both axis depending on how it is turned and thus match both 5 and 6 row keyboards. It will however be sort of wide when placed horizontally.
Definitely interested in a pad for the GH60. Any chance it'll be able to be led compatible?
Definitely interested in a pad for the GH60. Any chance it'll be able to be led compatible?
Yes, we do need LED on the NumLock switch.
If you mean full LED backlighting, I think that might mess with the ability to have the controller mounted to the PCB. Maybe Ducky is working on something for you? :P
I just want simple 4x5 keypad with plastic case like Poker, so it match. I have no interest in paying hundreds for metal cases.
I just want simple 4x5 keypad with plastic case like Poker, so it match. I have no interest in paying hundreds for metal cases.
Do I understand correctly, that the PCB must have the same height as the GH60, since we want same height of cases for the two devices?
A second smaller programmable pad sounds brilliant I use a tablet centrally with my keyboard to the left and a very pedestrian number pad to the right, having something like this would be awesome - in the long run I think I may end up with a couple of Access-Is's but being matrix rather than staggered I don't know how comfortable it'll be in the long run... so this +GH60 = perfect.
A second smaller programmable pad sounds brilliant I use a tablet centrally with my keyboard to the left and a very pedestrian number pad to the right, having something like this would be awesome - in the long run I think I may end up with a couple of Access-Is's but being matrix rather than staggered I don't know how comfortable it'll be in the long run... so this +GH60 = perfect.
And if they both had vertical sides, some internal magnets would connect them just fine.
- Ron | samwisekoiShow Image(http://www.samwisekoi.com/pixelart/M.png)
I think it might work, but this is the previous revision and doesn't have the other switches added in. I just did this really quick, so it's not laid out well, but I tried to put the atmega where it would be out of the way of the 0/plus/enter. I'll play with it some more.
(Attachment Link)
I bought atmega32u2 today to test if my firmware works on it, but I can't compile the code. I'm recompiling avr-gcc, because I think I've broken something;)
I'll be getting down to designing a PCB-integrated controller for this project soon.
I bought atmega32u2 today to test if my firmware works on it, but I can't compile the code. I'm recompiling avr-gcc, because I think I've broken something;)
I'll be getting down to designing a PCB-integrated controller for this project soon.
Like jdcarpe said, just make it the same "height" as teh GH60 so that they both match. It would be cooler to have more buttons, but I'd much rather have a matching set
The first prototype on atmega32u2 is working!:D
(Attachment Link)
Sorry for the mess. It's too late to take this picture well;)
This is really awesome-sauce. How did you prototype the PCB so fast? It looks like standard key spacing, and I've already started looking into a matching case for it a few days ago, ever since regack mentioned to make a compatible case to match the GH60 case I was designing.
You're pretty much almost to the point where the GH60 prototype PCB is, so maybe when the GB starts, we can combine both the GBs.
Space what out? GH60 and GHpad are going to be two separate cases.
Why? I say if both are ready just do it all at once as one order at the fab. Maybe it would help price on both?
Also, I think I mentioned the idea before, but how about a case that can fit both 60 and 10, with a usb hub inside to connect them and have 'one' keyboard cable to the pc? End up with something like the Plum96 but without the function row. I would like that a lot too.
Why? I say if both are ready just do it all at once as one order at the fab. Maybe it would help price on both?
Also, I think I mentioned the idea before, but how about a case that can fit both 60 and 10, with a usb hub inside to connect them and have 'one' keyboard cable to the pc? End up with something like the Plum96 but without the function row. I would like that a lot too.
May I make a suggestion, WFD? I would love it if you could place the standoffs in the exact positions they are in the stock Poker case. That is, four standoffs, designed to be in the same positions as the two leftmost standoffs and two rightmost standoffs in the Poker case. Theoretically, one could then take a saw to a plastic Poker case, cut out the middle portion, and epoxy the left and right bits together to form a plastic case for the GHpad. That also gives you the location of the USB connector.
Edit: I'm also hoping this design principle will serve as a guide to komar007 when designing the PCB for the GHpad.
Edit 2: Where are my manners? That case is freaking AWESOME! Thanks, WFD!
How did you prototype the PCB so fast?The controller is on a universal tqfp board, and the keys, well...
How did you prototype the PCB so fast?The controller is on a universal tqfp board, and the keys, well...
(Attachment Link)
Nice! Because I plan to build a "gaming pad" as well with one, 90 degree rotated (H5/V4),I want to do this as well. I'd rather have a small pad with switches for gaming and a full keyboard for typing than just just a full keyboard with switches for gaming.
tho that will probably need rerouting for the USB connector and a custom case...
I probably missed it but what will the case be like and will this be plate mounted?I am not sure but probably it will be only a pcb that can be either plate or pcb mounted. WFD will probably design a case for it. The break-offable pcb is still to be designed though.
What do you guys think about this?Hi simkev.
I probably missed it but what will the case be like and will this be plate mounted?
I did this based on standard key spacings, so it should match up with the PCB. I just need USB location and standoff locations if there are any. I suppose it doesn't need standoffs, but then you're forced to use plate-mounted PCB to mount it into the case. Here are some pics of just the bottom case, and one with the bottom piece + plate + brass weight (but without top cover).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/case/th_GHpadbottomcase.png) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v288/WhiteFireDragon/keyboard/case/GHpadbottomcase.png)
regack has a completed PCB here (https://github.com/regack/GHPad). I had a prototype made, but I haven't had a chance to order the SMD components to build it yet.D: jd!
regack has a completed PCB here (https://github.com/regack/GHPad). I had a prototype made, but I haven't had a chance to order the SMD components to build it yet.Awesome!
regack has a completed PCB here (https://github.com/regack/GHPad). I had a prototype made, but I haven't had a chance to order the SMD components to build it yet.Awesome!
And the ALPS version of it?
:D
Is what you will be working on? ;DYup, if you think that's a good idea ...
I'm just not up for SMD work for other than just a couple of pieces (and preferably 1206+ :D ) , so I made a version using through-hole everything. Always good to have alternatives, right?What are you using to solder your SMD parts mate?
I'm just not up for SMD work for other than just a couple of pieces (and preferably 1206+ :D ) , so I made a version using through-hole everything. Always good to have alternatives, right?What are you using to solder your SMD parts mate?
Hakko 888. But I'm sure the real problem is the confluence of patience, limits of vision, hand steadiness and the cost of a better type of magnifier.Or you trying to solder it with iron instead of hot air.
I really want this to happen, definitely in if this ever becomes a reality.Me also. I really, really want a progammable keypad with 6 rows.
Sorry if this has been asked before, but will this be usable with other keyboards aswell?
Is there a GB planned for this one? if there is I'm def. interested
what is the PCB size?
if it is smaller than 10x10cm it will be cool, take a look at the prices I've got:
Seedstudio 10x 10cm x 10cm US$ 24,90 + US$ 9,20 shipping = $34,10 = $3,41 per board
PCBWing 5x 10cm x 10cm color US$ 28,00 + US$ 5,00 shipping = $33,00 = $6,60 per board
OSH Park 3x 10cm x 10cm US$ 85,00 = $24,00 per board
(shipping to brazil - not sure how much it would cost to ship to US but I'm mostly sure it will be cheaper)
I'm totally in for a GB on this, my Adesso 22s are getting on my nerves, who the hell designs 2x key layouts without stabs >.<;Sometimes wyse does!
This is still going to have the same width as the Gh60 and support a split "0" and "+" key right?
I have no knowledge of any electronics/programming so this question may be very stupid but I'll ask anyway.
Would it be possible to make this programmable using hotkeys? Like the G80-3700 mode 4 :
Hold down the Numlock key on the G80-3700
Press the key you wish to program
Release the Numlock key
The Numlock LED should now be flashing
Type the key-combination or sequence you wish to program on the main keyboard
Press the Numlock key again
The blinking should stop, the key is now programmed with your string or sequence
Any further progress on this? I hate to sound impatient and I know these things take time, but this is a seriously awesome project and I want one a lot.
Any further progress on this? I hate to sound impatient and I know these things take time, but this is a seriously awesome project and I want one a lot.
Any further progress on this? I hate to sound impatient and I know these things take time, but this is a seriously awesome project and I want one a lot.
Am i supposed to be working on something here? :-[
Finally a hint of update :P
Here's a stab at that 4x6 keypad I threw together.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=48583.0;attach=35675;image)
... Something like this would work well.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
Ok, uhh...Here's a stab at that 4x6 keypad I threw together.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=48583.0;attach=35675;image)
I'm not sure if komar007 is still working on the atmega32u2 based version, but I'm going to sum up what I think people were asking for...
- 4x6 w/option to remove 1 row to make a 4x5 pad
- Num lock / Fn LED (probably one of each or 3 LEDs or something nifty)
- SMT on back of board
- some mounting holes for standoffs for non-plate versions
- option for maximum 24 keys all 1unit...
- option for this layout:... Something like this would work well.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
Did I miss anything?
Ok, uhh...Here's a stab at that 4x6 keypad I threw together.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=48583.0;attach=35675;image)
I'm not sure if komar007 is still working on the atmega32u2 based version, but I'm going to sum up what I think people were asking for...
- 4x6 w/option to remove 1 row to make a 4x5 pad
- Num lock / Fn LED (probably one of each or 3 LEDs or something nifty)
- SMT on back of board
- some mounting holes for standoffs for non-plate versions
- option for maximum 24 keys all 1unit...
- option for this layout:... Something like this would work well.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
Did I miss anything?
Ok, uhh...Hi regack.Here's a stab at that 4x6 keypad I threw together.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=48583.0;attach=35675;image)
I'm not sure if komar007 is still working on the atmega32u2 based version, but I'm going to sum up what I think people were asking for...
- 4x6 w/option to remove 1 row to make a 4x5 pad
- Num lock / Fn LED (probably one of each or 3 LEDs or something nifty)
- SMT on back of board
- some mounting holes for standoffs for non-plate versions
- option for maximum 24 keys all 1unit...
- option for this layout:... Something like this would work well.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
Did I miss anything?
Would the PCB be strong enough with the switch holes and marking to be able to breakoff one row from the bottom?
Would the PCB be strong enough with the switch holes and marking to be able to breakoff one row from the bottom?
I guess I'll have to get one made and try it out :D
I am going to get a batch of 10 of regack's PCBs made. If anyone is interested in getting one, please let me know.
I am going to get a batch of 10 of regack's PCBs made. If anyone is interested in getting one, please let me know.Might be interested..
Well I just ordered 10 of them and they were $6 each shipped. :thumb:
Will there be a 2x zero layout option?
Will there be a 2x zero layout option?
There will be.
Ok, cool.
Remember to save one for me! :DOk, cool.
If you are interested in one, just let me know. I think there is 1 of 10 unreserved PCBs left.
Any ideas on how much a case would cost to get made? Any plans for a small GB?Remember to save one for me! :DOk, cool.
If you are interested in one, just let me know. I think there is 1 of 10 unreserved PCBs left.
I'll have quote in few hours for a layered case.
I'll have quote in few hours for a layered case.
Awesome, thanks MOZ!
So can we get one of these PCB's? And how much?
Sounds great, so any plans for starting up a mini gb? I'd love to take advantage of that wholesale priceI'll have quote in few hours for a layered case.
Awesome, thanks MOZ!
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
No point for a mini GB since there are only ten PCBs. I'll just post it here, so those interested, PM me or post here.Sounds great, so any plans for starting up a mini gb? I'd love to take advantage of that wholesale priceI'll have quote in few hours for a layered case.
Awesome, thanks MOZ!
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
I'd be interested in a setting that would allow you to rotate the pad 90' to the right and use it as a gaming pad. I would have to play test it. It might prove less-than-ergonomic. I have small hands...but here's what I'm thinkingShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/8sCcgTl.jpg)
Yes, regack has designed a PCB that will support pretty much every numberpad layout you could hope for. However the ones I had printed are the basic design that will just support this key layout.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
MOZ, I would be interested in a case. However, if you are only getting these for this first batch of 10 PCBs right now, I believe they will only support the layout TheFlyingRaccoon posted earlier:Yes, regack has designed a PCB that will support pretty much every numberpad layout you could hope for. However the ones I had printed are the basic design that will just support this key layout.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
I'd be interested in a case if it fits the pcbs that TFR picked up. Layout undecided.No point for a mini GB since there are only ten PCBs. I'll just post it here, so those interested, PM me or post here.Sounds great, so any plans for starting up a mini gb? I'd love to take advantage of that wholesale priceI'll have quote in few hours for a layered case.
Awesome, thanks MOZ!
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
The case would consist of 5 layers, top player would be mounting plate, thus a 2TU style, if someone wants a different style with a lip, let me know. Also please post the layout you want.
So far in:
-Myself - Layout undecided.
MOZ, I would be interested in a case. However, if you are only getting these for this first batch of 10 PCBs right now, I believe they will only support the layout TheFlyingRaccoon posted earlier:Yes, regack has designed a PCB that will support pretty much every numberpad layout you could hope for. However the ones I had printed are the basic design that will just support this key layout.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0BH9KgN.png)
Will there be a 2x zero layout option?
There will be.
Ok here is my plan for the PCBs. I can buy enough components for everyone (microcontroller, diodes, Mini USB connector.) The only other components you'll need are the switches, caps, and case. I'm sure everyone can get caps and switches themselves, and MOZ can supply the cases.
These are a few basic layout possibilities. There are others, but they start to get a little weird...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nbBEU2T.png)
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.I'm in Canada
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
Which layout is fixed?
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.I'm in Canada
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.I'm in Canada
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
That sounds good. I can ship all the components (PCB, parts, case) in one box. I'll ship international as long as the buyer pays shipping. We gotta include the Canadians and our friends across the pond. :p
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
I'm also in for a case to go with the prototype PCB. Thanks!
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.
In so far:
- Me
- TheFlyingRaccoon
- SpamRay
- Dragonxx21
- whiskeytango
I would in most likelyhood ship all the cases to TFR, unless someone is not in CONUS. He can then ship them out to each member with all the other components.
I'm also in for a case to go with the prototype PCB. Thanks!
lol at that price I think it's a safe bet that everyone who wanted the PCB will want the case too.
@regack, thanks so much for doing the design work on this.
I'm in Canada
Dragonxx21 is in *Canada*This is correctI'm in Canada
regack where are you located?
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.I'll take one :thumb:
In so far:
- Me (ROW)
- TheFlyingRaccoon (CONUS)
- SpamRay (CONUS)
- Dragonxx21 (Canada)
- whiskeytango (CONUS)
- jdcarpe (CONUS)
- CPTBadass (CONUS)
- regack (CONUS)
Not decided:
- Defying (CONUS)
- olaph
regack where are you located? Don't know olaph's location.
What stabilizers will fit into that case? Looks like Cherry but I wanted to confirm.
What stabilizers will fit into that case? Looks like Cherry but I wanted to confirm.
Since the case is all 3mm acrylic, Cherry PCB would be best. You could glue in Costar and Cherry plate mounted
Okay, so the layout is fixed for this prototype.
In so far:
- Me (ROW)
- TheFlyingRaccoon (CONUS)
- SpamRay (CONUS)
- Dragonxx21 (Canada)
- whiskeytango (CONUS)
- jdcarpe (CONUS)
- CPTBadass (CONUS)
- regack (CONUS)
- Defying (CONUS)
Not decided:
- olaph
regack where are you located? Don't know olaph's location.
How much would it cost to be a beta tester by the way?
How much would it cost to be a beta tester by the way?
I'm paying $6 for my PCB and about $10-15 for the case. I'm not sure if this is a beta test though. Seems like this is the prototype run.
Racoon, looks like we need to up the protoype order :P
Jokes apart, I don't think it is a good idea for too many proto kits, as the real deal will be the layout regack is working on, and then that would be fun! :)
I believe TFR only ordered 10 PCBs and that was it for this run of prototypes. I also believe there will be a final PCB that regack is working on.How much would it cost to be a beta tester by the way?
I'm paying $6 for my PCB and about $10-15 for the case. I'm not sure if this is a beta test though. Seems like this is the prototype run.
I might jump in the proto stage anyway if I could get in at that cost. Would be a fun little project.
I believe TFR only ordered 10 PCBs and that was it for this run of prototypes. I also believe there will be a final PCB that regack is working on.That is correct
- Name the project
Someone give me their spot. You all have everything already :'(
Aw man, I'll be tempted to opt into R2 as well :PSomeone give me their spot. You all have everything already :'(
Don't worry! If all goes well, there should be a Round 2 with the universal layout PCB.
Someone give me their spot. You all have everything already :'(
Don't worry! If all goes well, there should be a Round 2 with the universal layout PCB.
... and I just noticed this morning that I have three of the through-hole resistors for the LEDs on the top of the board instead of the bottom... at least I don't have to move any of the traces to fix that. The one pin on switch 5 and 21 is kind of hosed... :'(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kAQyI66.png)
Made a "render" of MOZ's case.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbu9615.png)
Made a "render" of MOZ's case.:eek: it's beautifulShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbu9615.png)
Made a "render" of MOZ's case.:eek: it's beautifulShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbu9615.png)
Made a "render" of MOZ's case.:eek: it's beautifulShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/cbu9615.png)
Thanks! I did my best with AutoCAD. I am pretty rusty at 3DS Max but if anyone wants to make a real render I would be happy to send the files to them.
I could
Edit: Gimme gimme gimme
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
Just to break down the prices:
Price of case: $7.50 (Minor Price drop)
Bolts/Nuts: $2.00
Shipping: $2.5 (Since I will now bulk ship to Flying Racoon)
My Fees: $0.00 (I thought since it is a prototype, it isn't fair to ask for my fees since everyone is taking a minor risk)
Total: 12
After Paypal Fees: $12.77
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
Just to break down the prices:
Price of case: $7.50 (Minor Price drop)
Bolts/Nuts: $2.00
Shipping: $2.5 (Since I will now bulk ship to Flying Racoon)
My Fees: $0.00 (I thought since it is a prototype, it isn't fair to ask for my fees since everyone is taking a minor risk)
Total: 12
After Paypal Fees: $12.77
Might as well call it $13 ;)
$11 for upto 4, $8 thereafter. Remember, I still have to add cost of bolts and nuts, PayPal and shipping fees, along with compensation for my time, total comes out to be $20 for less than 4 and $17.5 for more than that.
Just to break down the prices:
Price of case: $7.50 (Minor Price drop)
Bolts/Nuts: $2.00
Shipping: $2.5 (Since I will now bulk ship to Flying Racoon)
My Fees: $0.00 (I thought since it is a prototype, it isn't fair to ask for my fees since everyone is taking a minor risk)
Total: 12
After Paypal Fees: $12.77
Might as well call it $13 ;)
And $6 for the PCB. So we are up to $19 not including shipping or parts. Not bad!
Got the proto for TFR cut today and nuts/bolts packed as well.
The case with the feet:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
The case without the feet:
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
I love these dome nuts:
(Attachment Link)
The layers:
(Attachment Link)
All nuts/bolts packed:
(Attachment Link)
Contents of each pack:
(Attachment Link)
7 M3 dome nuts
7 M3x16mm socket hex bolts
5 M3x25mm socket hex bolts
So you can choose to have the feet or not and 2 extras of each, so just incase the threads go bad on any of them.
The case kit:
(Attachment Link)
^^ does having those domed nuts as feet make it slide really easy?
Wow, so we're making this sub $30 which is really awesome.
Wow, so we're making this sub $30 which is really awesome.
Maybe. :)
The ATmega32U4 alone is about $8.
I will try to compile a parts list for you tonight. I'm not 100% sure you can get all the parts from Mouser, but I'll see what they have.
I will try to compile a parts list for you tonight. I'm not 100% sure you can get all the parts from Mouser, but I'll see what they have.
Here is what I have so far from Digikey. Not sure if it's 100% correct though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XBL94zQ.png)
I couldn't find or need clarification on DC1, DF2, DF3, R4, RF1, RF2, RF3, S0, and X1
I will try to compile a parts list for you tonight. I'm not 100% sure you can get all the parts from Mouser, but I'll see what they have.
Here is what I have so far from Digikey. Not sure if it's 100% correct though.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/XBL94zQ.png)
I couldn't find or need clarification on DC1, DF2, DF3, R4, RF1, RF2, RF3, S0, and X1
R4, RF1, RF2, RF3 - Resistance for LEDs - R4, RF1, RF2, RF3
DC1, DF2, DF3 - Any ~1.8V LED around 3mm would be fine
X1 - This I think? Someone can confirm: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7M-16.000MAAJ-T/887-1125-1-ND/2119014
S0: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTSMW69NVTR/679-2392-6-ND/2344206
R4, RF1, RF2, RF3 - Resistance for LEDs - R4, RF1, RF2, RF3
DC1, DF2, DF3 - Any ~1.8V LED around 3mm would be fine
X1 - This I think? Someone can confirm: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7M-16.000MAAJ-T/887-1125-1-ND/2119014
S0: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTSMW69NVTR/679-2392-6-ND/2344206
Looks like those should work.
TFR, the only thing on your list I'm not sure of is the diodes. Are those size 0805?
I have a bunch of 100ohm resistors and some red LEDs, will that work? I have enough for all 10 PCBs. I'm not certain on the crystal, regack will have to confirm that. I'm pretty sure that button wouldn't work though, the footprint isn't the right size. Also, they're expensive, something cheaper should work the same.What is the power rating on the LEDs? Footprint is the correct size, I just double-checked. Agreed on the pricing.
UPDATE
MOZ is willing to include cheap MX Blue switches from a TVS Gold for people who got in on the first 10 PCBs. They are ~$0.35 each so $7.70 for a set of switches. Post here if you are interested!
What is the power rating on the LEDs? Footprint is the correct size, I just double-checked. Agreed on the pricing.
Wow.. This just keeps getting better and better. Thanks MOZ! Please put me down for some blues. =D
Hmm, I don't think the red would go nice on the blue board, white is best, and LEDs are cheap anyway.
In for blue switches:
- MOZ
- olaph
I feel we'll be reaching 10 orders on the switches too, damn you raccoon :PMaybe not.. I'm considering it. I have over 100 MX Blue switches laying around... not sure if I need them lol.
Maybe not.. I'm considering it. I have over 100 MX Blue switches laying around... not sure if I need them lol.
Maybe not.. I'm considering it. I have over 100 MX Blue switches laying around... not sure if I need them lol.
It's all good! I personally will be going with white switches.
Hmm, I don't think the red would go nice on the blue board, white is best, and LEDs are cheap anyway.I'll be in for a set of blues as well.
In for blue switches:
- MOZ
- olaph
- jdcarpe
- whiskeyTango
I was looking and don't see yet where to order these! Praying I am not missing this yet. I am interested in 6 of them cases and all. Don't forget me! :eek:This is simply the prototype run and only ten sets were ordered. At this point in time all spots have been filled.
Or am I early and this is just the test group? Sorry RL has been busy! :-[
R4, RF1, RF2, RF3 - Resistance for LEDs - R4, RF1, RF2, RF3
DC1, DF2, DF3 - Any ~1.8V LED around 3mm would be fine
X1 - This I think? Someone can confirm: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/7M-16.000MAAJ-T/887-1125-1-ND/2119014
S0: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTSMW69NVTR/679-2392-6-ND/2344206
EDIT: Where did you source your ASX3F? I'm having issues finding a supplier.Unfortunately in a local shop.
Please try to find anything of similar size and footprint.
I'm attaching the datasheet: (Attachment Link) .
EDIT: I think these (http://www.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?FV=fff4000d%2Cfff8016d&k=16MHz&vendor=0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ptm=0&fid=0&quantity=0&PV46=13601) should be fine.
Can someone confirm if we can use this switch: http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/MJTPSMWBTR/679-2461-1-ND/2344177
Should save each one a dollar.
So where do the four LEDs go on this prototype? I am assuming one will be for numlock, but I'm unsure about the other three...?
I see that you have four LEDs at the top for you universal version... I just wondered where they go specifically on this first version that TFR has already ordered. Thanks
... and I just noticed this morning that I have three of the through-hole resistors for the LEDs on the top of the board instead of the bottom... at least I don't have to move any of the traces to fix that. The one pin on switch 5 and 21 is kind of hosed... :'(OMG!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kAQyI66.png)
Does someone want to double check the parts list?I'd probably need the diodes as I don't have a ready supply of electronics components. What size LEDs would you need? I might need to look around to see if I can find purple LEDs...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5ArXtv6.png)
Shipping is $5.32 so total cost is $10.22 a set. This does not include diodes or LEDs. If you don't have them already, I have plenty of red LEDs and various resistors.
I'd probably need the diodes as I don't have a ready supply of electronics components. What size LEDs would you need? I might need to look around to see if I can find purple LEDs...
Does someone want to double check the parts list?I don't really have any diodes laying around.. :(Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/5ArXtv6.png)
Shipping is $5.32 so total cost is $10.22 a set. This does not include diodes or LEDs. If you don't have them already, I have plenty of red LEDs and various resistors.
Rough Cost Estimate
$6 - PCB
$13 - case
$10.22 - parts
$5 - shipping
= $35 estimated total
I don't really have any diodes laying around.. :(
I'm confused. Are you talking about diodes, or resistors? Cause in the post with the part info, you say how there is no diodes included, but in the screenshot, I see 500 diodes. No resistors/LED's. :-\I don't really have any diodes laying around.. :(
Ok, here's what we'll do. Everyone in the first round needs to tell me what color LEDs they want. If you already have LEDs, you can opt out. I can order the LEDs and resistors then ship them with the rest of the parts.
Purple LEDs. Just thought I'd put it in here just for reference.I don't really have any diodes laying around.. :(
Ok, here's what we'll do. Everyone in the first round needs to tell me what color LEDs they want. If you already have LEDs, you can opt out. I can order the LEDs and resistors then ship them with the rest of the parts.
I'm confused. Are you talking about diodes, or resistors? Cause in the post with the part info, you say how there is no diodes included, but in the screenshot, I see 500 diodes. No resistors/LED's. :-\
wow okay I'm dumbI'm confused. Are you talking about diodes, or resistors? Cause in the post with the part info, you say how there is no diodes included, but in the screenshot, I see 500 diodes. No resistors/LED's. :-\
Yes, I did not include LEDs or resistors. The resistor depends on what LED you use so the resistors were left out.
TFR, I think there is confusion between the switch diodes and the light emitting diodes... you said it includes everything but diodes and LEDs, but I think you meant to say ti includes everything but resistors and LEDs. You do seem to have switch diodes listed in your order list.
Edit: I see you figured that out.
I would like rectangular LEDs in purple. If no purple, then white please.
This list is awesome and better prices than I expected. Thanks for all the work!
Actually I don't need LED's, just found some laying around that should work. ;)
Rectangular purple LEDs for me too!
Just wondering, why are you ordering 20 sets?
When do you expect the kits to go out? Just wondering, this project is incredibly awesome and this will be my first DIY (from a bare PCB) project :thumb:
I'm confused. Are you talking about diodes, or resistors? Cause in the post with the part info, you say how there is no diodes included, but in the screenshot, I see 500 diodes. No resistors/LED's. :-\I don't really have any diodes laying around.. :(
Ok, here's what we'll do. Everyone in the first round needs to tell me what color LEDs they want. If you already have LEDs, you can opt out. I can order the LEDs and resistors then ship them with the rest of the parts.
I could be really dumb right now and not know what I'm talking about.. I'm tired.
also if it's still wanted, I'd like white LED's.
This is a really cool project. Any plans on a GB or something after you guys have finished?
Ideally, what you want in a GB like this would be someone who could supply you with the PCB, stabilizers (if requested), switches, a case and/or a plate. And possibly assembly service.
If MOZ and TheFlyingRacoon can handle that, it sounds like they are ready to roll with it, once everything is final and prototypes have been made and tested.
Heh. Hopefully everything goes well :DIdeally, what you want in a GB like this would be someone who could supply you with the PCB, stabilizers (if requested), switches, a case and/or a plate. And possibly assembly service.
If MOZ and TheFlyingRacoon can handle that, it sounds like they are ready to roll with it, once everything is final and prototypes have been made and tested.
This prototyping is sort of a mock GB for us too :D
What is the recommended tip for a Hakko 888 for SMD soldering?
What is the recommended tip for a Hakko 888 for SMD soldering?
I will most likely be using a T18-DL12
What is the recommended tip for a Hakko 888 for SMD soldering?
I will most likely be using a T18-DL12
What is the recommended tip for a Hakko 888 for SMD soldering?
I will most likely be using a T18-DL12
Hey JD, you want to come over and help me solder everyone's PCBs? :P
I think he's talking about the final PCB's. :eek:What is the recommended tip for a Hakko 888 for SMD soldering?
I will most likely be using a T18-DL12
Hey JD, you want to come over and help me solder everyone's PCBs? :P
You will solder them for us :eek:
Final PCBs for the group buy should be manufactured using pick and place, just like the final GH60s will be. So end users won't have to worry about SMD soldering.
Final PCBs for the group buy should be manufactured using pick and place, just like the final GH60s will be. So end users won't have to worry about SMD soldering.
Exactly. I figured since it was only 10 PCBs, I would be happy to do the SMD soldering for everyone. I have that Hakko 936 you sold me and the proper equipment to SMD solder.
are the prototypes SMD?
Final PCBs for the group buy should be manufactured using pick and place, just like the final GH60s will be. So end users won't have to worry about SMD soldering.Yes, that is hi=ow it would be done.
Exactly. I figured since it was only 10 PCBs, I would be happy to do the SMD soldering for everyone. I have that Hakko 936 you sold me and the proper equipment to SMD solder.What is proper equipment, do I need something specific, besides the normal through hole stuff and a finer tip?
are the prototypes SMD?
Yes, there is lots of SMD soldering involved.
I found this to be a very helpful video on SMD soldering if you are interested.Thanks, I'll check it out. I have a feeling that the solder I have is too big, same goes for my tip.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NN7UGWYmBY)
Final PCBs for the group buy should be manufactured using pick and place, just like the final GH60s will be. So end users won't have to worry about SMD soldering.
Exactly. I figured since it was only 10 PCBs, I would be happy to do the SMD soldering for everyone. I have that Hakko 936 you sold me and the proper equipment to SMD solder.
As long as you only need an iron to do it, it couldn't be that hard right?
As long as you only need an iron to do it, it couldn't be that hard right?
SMD is an entire different ball game. Some of that stuff is super tiny.
TFR, I was hoping to get to do the soldering myselfI. Part of the fun of DIY and all.
I'll do the soldering myself. It's nice that you're offering SMD soldering, but one of the reasons why I wanted this was to be my first DIY kit. :thumb:I'm going to second this. It's a learning experience!
Moz and I have pretty much everything worked out and are about ready to invoice. For SMD soldering, it will be $10 and for full assembly it will be $10. I think those prices are fair, but just let me know if you disagree!Did you ever get the quote for the LEDs?
How does a man get in on this?
Did you ever get the quote for the LEDs?
Did you ever get the quote for the LEDs?
For the purple LEDs, they are $0.58 each so $2.32 for a set of 4. The green LEDs are $0.36 each so $1.44 for a set of 4.
Did you ever get the quote for the LEDs?
For the purple LEDs, they are $0.58 each so $2.32 for a set of 4. The green LEDs are $0.36 each so $1.44 for a set of 4.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2x3x4mm-Purple-400-405nm-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-Free-Resistor-234PL-amy-/321089669408?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac26f8920
$0.40 each after shipping for purple.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Rectangle-Green-Water-Clear-LED-Light-Leds-/320999090387?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abd0968d3
$0.055 each for green.
But that assumes that you want him to buy a certain quantity (10 or 100), and sell them at per unit cost. That's fine if he can sell or use the rest, but if not, he's out of pocket. Vendors are normally about making money, not losing it. :)
Did you ever get the quote for the LEDs?
For the purple LEDs, they are $0.58 each so $2.32 for a set of 4. The green LEDs are $0.36 each so $1.44 for a set of 4.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-2x3x4mm-Purple-400-405nm-Water-Clear-LED-Lamp-With-Free-Resistor-234PL-amy-/321089669408?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac26f8920
$0.40 each after shipping for purple.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100pcs-2x3x4mm-Rectangle-Green-Water-Clear-LED-Light-Leds-/320999090387?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4abd0968d3
$0.055 each for green.
But that assumes that you want him to buy a certain quantity (10 or 100), and sell them at per unit cost. That's fine if he can sell or use the rest, but if not, he's out of pocket. Vendors are normally about making money, not losing it. :)
I have green 2x3x4 I can send you TFR for free.
I have green 2x3x4 I can send you TFR for free.
There we go! I like this option much better. :p
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jr1ilK9.png)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4kFi6ug.png)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nB4gtrn.png)
Woohoo!
regack, can this board utilize the expansion capability of the GH60, so:
1. No separate USB connector is required
2. No controller is required.
If I remember correctly, only 20 switches could be connected? Can we use I/O expander to increase this number or something similar? My electronic knowledge is highly limited as evident.
Woohoo!
regack, can this board utilize the expansion capability of the GH60, so:
1. No separate USB connector is required
2. No controller is required.
If I remember correctly, only 20 switches could be connected? Can we use I/O expander to increase this number or something similar? My electronic knowledge is highly limited as evident.
Ahh, uhh, you know, I hadn't really thought of that. I'll have to evaluate how it would be connected. Honestly, I haven't really paid much attention to how the expansion pads on the GH60 are supposed to function. Is that info buried in the thread somewhere? Otherwise I can look at the schematic again and figure out what it's doing.
---
I looked at the GH60, and I see only 4 IO pins on the expansion, which isn't going to net 20 keys. I must be missing something, but putting an IO expander on the keypad, that's an idea. There's an SOIC package for the MCP23018 that might fit somewhere, I'll look at it.
Oh, I see that now, I missed those pins. The rows are brought out to P11-15. The the additional 4 columns would be the other 4 IO pins, although those other IO pins are all driving LEDs. I'm not sure how that works exactly.I think its an extension of the row-column matrix at the top between the number switches on the GH60. Allowing the numpad to use the controller on the GH60 rather than its own.
I looked at the GH60, and I see only 4 IO pins on the expansion, which isn't going to net 20 keys. I must be missing something, but putting an IO expander on the keypad, that's an idea. There's an SOIC package for the MCP23018 that might fit somewhere, I'll look at it.
I am a PCB noob, but I think I read somewhere that komar said you have to choose between using the extra I/O pins to drive leds or add more switches but that you cannot do both
Edit: I think that is what he is saying in this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34959.msg879125#msg879125)
I am a PCB noob, but I think I read somewhere that komar said you have to choose between using the extra I/O pins to drive leds or add more switches but that you cannot do both
Edit: I think that is what he is saying in this post (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=34959.msg879125#msg879125)
That would make sense and would solve the problems I was having in my head. On that note, I've just made more work for myself as I plan around the serial expander idea in the keypad and SmallFry 40% board.
I love that the renders are purple. We need to standardize on purple PCB soldermask for this and the SmallFry 40% keyboard.
I love that the renders are purple. We need to standardize on purple PCB soldermask for this and the SmallFry 40% keyboard.
Agreed, and we need a keycap set for the SmallFry board.
I love that the renders are purple. We need to standardize on purple PCB soldermask for this and the SmallFry 40% keyboard.
Agreed, and we need a keycap set for the SmallFry board.
Other than 'nathan's set'?
What is Nathan's set?
What is Nathan's set?
What is Nathan's set?
It is going to be the first full set produced by SP with the new Cherry replica font legends. The legends will be orange polycarbonate on white. It would be awesome if the GB organizers would include keycaps designed to fit the SmallFry keyboard and possibly this keypad.
It the Nathan set really happening, or is the progress just so slow it seems dorment?
It the Nathan set really happening, or is the progress just so slow it seems dorment?
It's still ongoing. Last I heard is that they were editing a few of the remaining legends.
That was quick!
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
That is freaking awesome!!!!
Do we get to pick the color of these when the rest ship out or how does that work?
That is freaking awesome!!!!
Do we get to pick the color of these when the rest ship out or how does that work?
Love the matching cableReceived the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
That is freaking awesome!!!!
Do we get to pick the color of these when the rest ship out or how does that work?
Since this is the beta run, and we only have 10 total orders, we were thinking to do only one color scheme. Translucent blue top and bottom, milky (translucent) white middle portion.
Love the matching cableReceived the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
That is freaking awesome!!!!
Do we get to pick the color of these when the rest ship out or how does that work?
Since this is the beta run, and we only have 10 total orders, we were thinking to do only one color scheme. Translucent blue top and bottom, milky (translucent) white middle portion.
I don't care what color the prototype case is, I just want it NAO! :))Neither do I, but if it's possible it would be nice :)
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
Fine let's choose colors.
Trans blue and milky white - Moz, CPT, WhiskyTango, TFR, JDCarpe
Red and milky white - Defying
Smoke and clear - spamray
Dragon, olaph, regack what colors do you want?
Could i get dark purple and milky white? How much extra would it cost?
Could i get dark purple and milky white? How much extra would it cost?
$5 extra (Which includes PP fess), since I would need to get a piece of 1'x4'.
And I have the deep purple you require :D
I am fine with this if MOZ is *high five*Could i get dark purple and milky white? How much extra would it cost?
$5 extra (Which includes PP fess), since I would need to get a piece of 1'x4'.
And I have the deep purple you require :D
Okay, I changed my mind again. I want this! Can I split the cost with dragonxx21? :D
Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :PWait! I changed my mind! Just kidding :p
Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :P
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :P
Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :P
Can I get in on this purple deal?
Since MOZ confirmed there is a stand alone version, I am in... What details do you need from me? Also, looking through the thread its totally obvious what the final cost will be. Let me know what the best way to get involved is. Great work so far, this is very exciting...
CPTBadAss, I know you wanted blue and white, so I think yours is confirmed?
:'(No.Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :PCan I get in on this purple deal?
J/King. You can.;D
Haha. I updated the list.
CPTBadAss, I know you wanted blue and white, so I think yours is confirmed?
WhiskyTango, can you confirm that you are good the blue and white, cause your response was more of an okay, rather than "Yay, this is the best news I've hard all year":P
regack, still waiting for a response.
Since MOZ confirmed there is a stand alone version, I am in... What details do you need from me? Also, looking through the thread its totally obvious what the final cost will be. Let me know what the best way to get involved is. Great work so far, this is very exciting...
Once all the details are worked out etc, I believe there will be a group buy thread posted.
HOLD UP, just realized you have ORANGE as an option! Can I have:
top and bottom = translucent blue
middle = orange
Please, pretty please?
Yes, definitely AN-373I second this. 373 is the obvious choice.
WHY COULDN'T YOU HAVE PM'ED THOSE SAMPLES TO THEM.Do it. You know you want to. Puuurpleeeee.
/me really wants a purple case now....he must be good and resist
Moz will kill me or else I would.
Edit: I cant resist purple. Sorry to be like this Moz. Please change mine to purple as well. Thank you so much.
He has purple. I need purple.It looks so good. Right?
Moz will kill me or else I would.
Edit: I cant resist purple. Sorry to be like this Moz. Please change mine to purple as well. Thank you so much.
You know he has hot pink to :P
Moz will kill me or else I would.
Edit: I cant resist purple. Sorry to be like this Moz. Please change mine to purple as well. Thank you so much.
You know he has hot pink to :P
I need to get a sample of hot pink. I can see myself becoming a millionaire selling pink and purple (I just got an idea how about, purple-pink-white-pink-purple?) cases on GH.
Moz will kill me or else I would.
Edit: I cant resist purple. Sorry to be like this Moz. Please change mine to purple as well. Thank you so much.
You know he has hot pink to :p
I need to get a sample of hot pink. I can see myself becoming a millionaire selling pink and purple (I just got an idea how about, purple-pink-white-pink-purple?) cases on GH.
Yes.Yes, definitely AN-373I second this. 373 is the obvious choice.
Sure. Deep purple and milky white for you guys. NO more changing :P
For those of us that were slow on the draw, you're just rubbing salt into the wound now!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/TghktaI.gif)
Guess what I did today? Got the cases cut. Blue, purple and milky white acrylic look so tasty. Pictures after I get some sleep :p
- Due to some technical issues, the smoke case's feet came out with misaligned engraving, sorry about that ray. I ran out of acrylic in that color, otherwise I would have worked something out.
- Due to some technical issues, the smoke case's feet came out with misaligned engraving, sorry about that ray. I ran out of acrylic in that color, otherwise I would have worked something out.
:o
how bad is it doc?
give me the bad news, I can take it. :'(
Also how much does the acrylic cost maybe I could buy you some more :p
- Due to some technical issues, the smoke case's feet came out with misaligned engraving, sorry about that ray. I ran out of acrylic in that color, otherwise I would have worked something out.
:o
how bad is it doc?
give me the bad news, I can take it. :'(
Also how much does the acrylic cost maybe I could buy you some more :p
We are taking about those small tiny 10mm diameter discs, I think you can replace them with rubber feet, rather than spend the money required for the acrylic.
Anyways I am done with the heavy engraving stuff, too much headache and not neat enough, "this isn't engraving, this is carving" - this is what my acrylic guy tells me.
Blue and white case:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Notes:
- This post in general: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48007.msg1068449#msg1068449
- So, yeah, I am not happy with how some of the engraving turned out for the bolt holes, and in the final version, when we do it, I will replace it with the method described in the post linked above. I will have a sample for that before we get to that stage.
- Red top and bottom were virtually unusable and will be cut again, this is also described int he above post.
- Due to some technical issues, the smoke case's feet came out with misaligned engraving, sorry about that ray. I ran out of acrylic in that color, otherwise I would have worked something out.
- In the final version, I need to increase the thickness of then thin acrylic wall on either sides of the usb cutout depending on how the PCB fits the case, as it is too thin and flimsy at the moment.
EDIT: the misalignment of the feet in the image above is due to me, not having aligned the feet correctly before tightening the screws.
That "stand" is totally going to break off. I prefer a simple bumpon.Any reason, you think it will break off. It is 5 layers of ~3mm acrylic bolted, I don't think it will break.
That "stand" is totally going to break off. I prefer a simple bumpon.Any reason, you think it will break off. It is 5 layers of ~3mm acrylic bolted, I don't think it will break.
I any case, I have 8 of each color (So total of 16, so you can make the pattern of your choice and have extra just in case any snaps), such "feet-strips" packaged with every case.
Slight problem with the engraving for the holes, mainly the depth, otherwise, great.
I've already packed these up, except the red one, which I need to get done again and correctly this time.:(
I've already packed these up, except the red one, which I need to get done again and correctly this time.
So what exactly do we have to do to fix the problem? I have a drill somewhere in my home and probably a 5mm drill bit as well.
You wrong Cap'n. :PSo will I have to do this drill mod then? :P
The holes are aligned correctly, so the layers align well; the etched part around the holes on the top and bottom layer is not etched correctly, so the flat head screw doesn't sit in properly.
To fix this, what you need to do is take a drill or dremel with a 5mm bit, and align it so the bit's center is on the center of the screw hole and just drill through or drill half way, as that is all that is required for the screw to sit in.
And Defying, cheer up, your case would be closest to perfect :D
So in other words the flat screw needs to be countersunk and there is a slight size difference between the top of the flat screw and the hole in the acrylic.
So in other words the flat screw needs to be countersunk and there is a slight size difference between the top of the flat screw and the hole in the acrylic.
Yes, the etching was to provide the countersinck, but it misaligned slightly and/or was not deep enough.
So in other words the flat screw needs to be countersunk and there is a slight size difference between the top of the flat screw and the hole in the acrylic.
Yes, the etching was to provide the countersinck, but it misaligned slightly and/or was not deep enough.
so the blue case you posted above the screw tops are just slightly raised above the acrylic, is that what your saying is wrong?
I can't believe people are freaking out about the countersink not being PERFECT on a prototypeI don't really see anyone freaking out, or crying. I'm simply asking about the proposed fix, as I really have no idea how to do it.
I've had professionally made equipment with elevated bolts due to the same thing and I never cried myself to sleep over it
Besides, increasing the size of the countersink at home is a very simple mod
I can't believe people are freaking out about the countersink not being PERFECT on a prototypeI don't really see anyone freaking out, or crying. I'm simply asking about the proposed fix, as I really have no idea how to do it.
I've had professionally made equipment with elevated bolts due to the same thing and I never cried myself to sleep over it
Besides, increasing the size of the countersink at home is a very simple mod
Ah okay then. That clears things up.I can't believe people are freaking out about the countersink not being PERFECT on a prototypeI don't really see anyone freaking out, or crying. I'm simply asking about the proposed fix, as I really have no idea how to do it.
I've had professionally made equipment with elevated bolts due to the same thing and I never cried myself to sleep over it
Besides, increasing the size of the countersink at home is a very simple mod
His post was in reference to the hate mail I received.
Anyways so Moz is cool and these cases are going to be awesome!Yeah, I can't wait. Thanks again Moz for the amazing cases.
Anyways so Moz is cool and these cases are going to be awesome!
And this is how I wanted it to look all along.This makes me happy to see that this is my case. ;D
Nice! Sadly I don't think I'll be able to make mine for a while :< I don't know if I have an iron that can handle it at the moment, but Ill try :P
Nice! Sadly I don't think I'll be able to make mine for a while :< I don't know if I have an iron that can handle it at the moment, but Ill try :P
Would you like to give your spot to someone else then, someone that would build it ASAP? Just asking because the next round of universal GHPad should not be too fa behind, followed by the GB, and frankly it doesn't help the cause of prototyping, if you aren't going to be building it while prototyping. I'm sure there would be someone to pay you, what you have paid so far.
Right now we're in the prototyping phase, but once designs are finalized and they get everything settled, then they are going to run a GB.
very nice design and board..
Is there anyway I could participate or...
I really wish I had found this forum much earlier.
Here is a new design with newer feet, I hope you can understand what I have. Basically instead of those possibly weaker feet, I have 4 larger rectangular feet. Each layer is smaller by 1.5 mm on each side. The two larger holes on each side are for bolting to the bottom most layer on the case and the center one is to access the reset button. (I don't know how to wok 3D software to create a 3D model to explain better:()
(Attachment Link)
Here is a new design with newer feet, I hope you can understand what I have. Basically instead of those possibly weaker feet, I have 4 larger rectangular feet. Each layer is smaller by 1.5 mm on each side. The two larger holes on each side are for bolting to the bottom most layer on the case and the center one is to access the reset button. (I don't know how to wok 3D software to create a 3D model to explain better:()
(Attachment Link)
So the foot is now shaped like a stepped pyramid, getting progressively smaller over 4 layers as it moves away from the bottom of the case.
Cool. The standoffs came in good time!
And are those all flat LEDs? or rounded?
I went ahead and got round because flats from China were delayed, didn't wasn't to hold up progress!
Guess what finally came in the mail?:eek: :eek: :eek:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PDKmcFJ.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jO1W2ji.jpg?1)
Guess what finally came in the mail?It's like Christmas in October!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/PDKmcFJ.jpg?1)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jO1W2ji.jpg?1)
Nice regack. Did you add the I/O expander so we can it with the 60% or something of that kind?
Regaridng the mounting slot, we do need someway for PCB-mounted GHPad, there would be some users that prefer them over plate mounted.
Aww, it looks so plain and unassuming... it needs more holes and stuff... like this one:
(Attachment Link)
- 1.27mm headers on left-board edge for ROWS, COLUMNS, Vcc, Gnd and FN/NumLock LED control line (silkscreen on back)
- Adjusted spacing of 'breakway' drills - it's still hardly breakaway, you'll really need to cut it or score it a lot or something
- geekhack silkscreen
- I think I did something else, but I forget what it was
*still need to fix pad interference in the lower left there on S5 and S21... I keep forgetting about that
*might ditch that one mounting slot on the left, I just left it for alignment vs other boards
I certainly hope it takes less than that.
Cool. The standoffs came in good time!
And are those all flat LEDs? or rounded?
Photekq, we need information on your mystery case. :PI'm going caseless, baby! I mainly want this to practice SMD soldering, and I don't use my numpad too much so it'll do fine without a case. There are no numpad case plans atm but it's something I'd definitely like sometime in the future.
If you have 4 purple flat LED for me, I will take some.
If you have 4 purple flat LED for me, I will take some.
Yes, everyone please let me know what LEDs you would like if you want them. There are 20 flat purple, 4 flat green, 20 white round, 20 red round, 20 blue round, 20 yellow round, 20 green round, and 20 purple round. You can thank Ray for them. :thumb:
Is it too late to get LED's? :o
If it's not, I'll take 4 purple's and if not, 4 white rounds. :)
Err, flat if possible. :DIs it too late to get LED's? :o
If it's not, I'll take 4 purple's and if not, 4 white rounds. :)
You can still get LEDs! Would you like round or flat for purple?
I also hate acrylic as a material :))I know, that is why I was expecting to see a TEK-20 :D
I know, that is why I was expecting to see a TEK-20 :DWatch this space (in maybe 6months-1year or something) :))
Err, flat if possible. :DIs it too late to get LED's? :o
If it's not, I'll take 4 purple's and if not, 4 white rounds. :)
You can still get LEDs! Would you like round or flat for purple?
I'll take the flat green ones.
And HUGE thanks to Ray! and to TFR and MOZ and regack! you guys rock
Can I have white leds TFR?
I really hope you kept some purple LEDs for me! I'd like flat :DErr, flat if possible. :DIs it too late to get LED's? :o
If it's not, I'll take 4 purple's and if not, 4 white rounds. :)
You can still get LEDs! Would you like round or flat for purple?
Sure thing! Everyone else- let me know what LEDs you want before they're all gone. :p
I really hope you kept some purple LEDs for me! I'd like flat :D
Sweet :D Thanks again to Ray for for being a great guy and providing us with all these LED choices!I really hope you kept some purple LEDs for me! I'd like flat :D
Yes I did! You get the last 4 flat purple ones.
I would like green LEDs if possible.. If not, any color will do. =) Thank you.
Can regular cyndrical LEDs work?
Any progress with an IO expander in order to hook this up as a daughterboard to the GH60? Should I just ask again after the GH60s have shipped?
Any progress with an IO expander in order to hook this up as a daughterboard to the GH60? Should I just ask again after the GH60s have shipped?
There will definitely be that feature in the final version. Just not in these prototypes.
Seeing that PCB render reminds me, DO NOT HAVE ANY PCB MADE BY OSHPARK THAT HAVE OVERLAPPING DRILL HOLES. I think their fan compensates for it by using a smaller drill bit. Don't make the same mistake I made. I probably just wasted a bunch of money.
Seeing that PCB render reminds me, DO NOT HAVE ANY PCB MADE BY OSHPARK THAT HAVE OVERLAPPING DRILL HOLES. I think their fan compensates for it by using a smaller drill bit. Don't make the same mistake I made. I probably just wasted a bunch of money.
There will definitely be that feature in the final version. Just not in these prototypes.
Yes, as jdcarpe has said, the current iteration undergoing scrutiny has an option for the MCP23018 serial IO expander...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SgYKEj2.png)
Seeing that PCB render reminds me, DO NOT HAVE ANY PCB MADE BY OSHPARK THAT HAVE OVERLAPPING DRILL HOLES. I think their fan compensates for it by using a smaller drill bit. Don't make the same mistake I made. I probably just wasted a bunch of money.
you probably can't file them out on a pcb either. it might be worth it to try with one?
I'm not understanding why you need those long drill holes for the mount screws. This is a new, from scratch board. You can put the standoffs anywhere you want.
I was actually going to try and drill them out myself, but there are also some places where solder pads are completely missing, as well as a trace. And this is on the SMD diode pad and switch pin hole. :(
It's like that on all three boards, so something got screwed up somewhere.
Parts from Digikey have arrived! Just waiting on the cases from Moz then I can begin packing up orders. :thumb:Can I get my caseless one sooner? :-* :-*
Parts from Digikey have arrived! Just waiting on the cases from Moz then I can begin packing up orders. :thumb:Awesome. I'm still waiting on my case too. :)
Parts from Digikey have arrived! Just waiting on the cases from Moz then I can begin packing up orders. :thumb:Can I get my caseless one sooner? :-* :-*
Sure! I can get it packaged and shipped this weekend hopefully. You'll still have to wait longer for shipping though since your in the UK :pAwesome! Thanks man, I honestly can't wait to build it with my new iron.
Tracking finally updated for the case.Show Image(http://puu.sh/517Ph.png)
I assume it will be here tomorrow.
I feel like it was moving across the US... but it took two weeks for the tracking to update.Tracking finally updated for the case.Show Image(http://puu.sh/517Ph.png)
I assume it will be here tomorrow.
Its weird it sat in NY customs for almost two weeks.
Tracking finally updated for the case.Show Image(http://puu.sh/517Ph.png)
I assume it will be here tomorrow.
Its weird it sat in NY customs for almost two weeks.
Tracking finally updated for the case.Show Image(http://puu.sh/517Ph.png)
I assume it will be here tomorrow.
Its weird it sat in NY customs for almost two weeks.
Yeah, something like this happened with something I sent to JDCarpe, it was in customs for 2 weeks, and in the same time, I sent Glod something and it reached him in 5 days from my place to his.
I find that incoming packages usually go through Customs in San Francisco and Chicago faster than New York. If your shipment ends up in NY Customs, count on a week or two before it starts moving again.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=post;quote=1049952;topic=38963.300;last_msg=1092746
So how much will a GHPad cost in total without switches?
This thread is quite long and the OP hasn't changed at all
So how much will a GHPad cost in total without switches?
This thread is quite long and the OP hasn't changed at all
GHpad is going to be super cheap. No reason not to get one.
So how much will a GHPad cost in total without switches?
This thread is quite long and the OP hasn't changed at all
GHpad is going to be super cheap. No reason not to get one.
Got the case and I have no idea how to assemble it. ;D
I have the top part of the case screwed properly, but for the bottom, I have no idea. There's these small screws that don't thread to anything and don't go all the way through, then there's longer screws that are way too long that go through the whole case and more, and then these hex bolts that fall through the hole and don't hold the top layer on. I'm confused :confused:Got the case and I have no idea how to assemble it. ;D
Well you put all the layers together then put the screws through. Here is the order of the layer.
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38963.msg1046650#msg1046650
The hex bolts were extra, just in case you wan tot use those, you did get washers right?
To assemble, do you have brass standoffs? I don't think so, TFR has to ship them to you, only then will you be able to assemble.
I might put a small tutorial on how to put these together.
The hex bolts were extra, just in case you wan tot use those, you did get washers right?These are all the types of screws that it came with:
To assemble, do you have brass standoffs? I don't think so, TFR has to ship them to you, only then will you be able to assemble.
I might put a small tutorial on how to put these together.
These are all the types of screws that it came with:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jr26jrr.jpg)
Check again, there must be 3 different flat head screws.There's only two types.
Alright, it's 4:30 in the morning here so my brain isn't exactly working at pace, but yeah I just recalled there should ONLY be TWO types of flat head screws, you should have quite a number of those small flatheads, they are 6mm. And the longer ones are 20mm.Cool. Was hoping that it was something simple. :)
So what you do is, once you get the brass stand offs, you insert them into the hex cutout in the the 3 middle layers, then take a 6mm flat head and screw from the top and bottom layers, remember you don't want to go all the way from either the top or the bottom, as then there wouldn't be enough "space" in the brass stand off for the other scre.
See this graphic:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Z324qud.png)
Red --> Brass standoffs
Blue --> 20mm flat head screws
Green --> 6mm fat head screws
Black --> Acrylic layer.
Please read the thread.
We are currently beta testing, this is far from complete. The next stage is to test new PCBs, only after that will we move to GB stage.
Looks like the cases were delivered to TFR according to the USPS tracking.
Hopefully we can get some shots soon and distributed to everyone.
Man, that's awesome. Congrats! :cool:
I much prefer the one with the rubber feet things.
BLUUUUUUUUE!
Those rubber thingies look really cool actually. Where did you pick them up TFR?
Here are some pictures of the case and an assembly guideShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/IEsReUM.jpg)
Everything included for the case. Most of it you will not use.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lixTHfq.jpg)
Step 1: Assemble the three middle layers and insert the brass standoffs so they are in the middle.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/khnpLvE.jpg)
Step 2: Put on the plate and screw in the short flat-head bolts. DO NOT TIGHTEN THESE
(No picture)
Step 3: Put on the back cover. Screw in the bottom two short flat-head bolts. Make sure these are tight.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FOYju5v.jpg)
Step 4: Assemble the feet. I found 5 layers has the best angle for me. Use the longer flat-head bolts. Make sure these are tight.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Y3pOeTG.jpg)
Done!
Alternate method
Instead of using the acrylic feet, you can use rubber thingies.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g2pBAos.jpg)
Pic of it assembledShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/6jdxe1f.jpg)
Also, I am packing up all the orders today and should have everything shipped out today or tomorrow.
How remappable are these keys? IE can I change the location of the numlock key and change what pressing numlock changes to the keys?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6xEkpng.jpg)
All orders with the cases are going out in the mail tomorrow! Just need boxes for the orders without cases then they will be shipped.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6xEkpng.jpg)
All orders with the cases are going out in the mail tomorrow! Just need boxes for the orders without cases then they will be shipped.
Dam when is this going into GB stage?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6xEkpng.jpg)
All orders with the cases are going out in the mail tomorrow! Just need boxes for the orders without cases then they will be shipped.
Dam when is this going into GB stage?
No idea. This was just the beta, there is going to be a groupbuy with the universal layout PCB regack designed.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6xEkpng.jpg)
All orders with the cases are going out in the mail tomorrow! Just need boxes for the orders without cases then they will be shipped.
Dam when is this going into GB stage?
No idea. This was just the beta, there is going to be a groupbuy with the universal layout PCB regack designed.
When it does, do you know how much it will cost? Don't want to get overly invested and then my wallet can't keep up
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6xEkpng.jpg)
All orders with the cases are going out in the mail tomorrow! Just need boxes for the orders without cases then they will be shipped.
Dam when is this going into GB stage?
No idea. This was just the beta, there is going to be a groupbuy with the universal layout PCB regack designed.
When it does, do you know how much it will cost? Don't want to get overly invested and then my wallet can't keep up
I am too lazy to go looking for it, but I read somewhere in this thread that the approximate cost will be about $45, but I am not sure if that included a case and switches and stuff. It is in the thread if you feel like looking for it. Probably around page 18 or so...
That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.
Even for upwards of $60 I believe it would be a fair price, considering what the final product will be able to do.That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.
Ya, we will see what the pricing works out to. I think it will remain reasonable and it is going to be kick ass, so can't wait... :)
Even for upwards of $60 I believe it would be a fair price, considering what the final product will be able to do.That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.
Ya, we will see what the pricing works out to. I think it will remain reasonable and it is going to be kick ass, so can't wait... :)
Even for upwards of $60 I believe it would be a fair price, considering what the final product will be able to do.That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.
Ya, we will see what the pricing works out to. I think it will remain reasonable and it is going to be kick ass, so can't wait... :)
$60 without switches, stabs, and caps? So just the PCB+case?
I never would have guessed that I would be a top and CPTDatAss would be a bottom. You learn something new every day.
All packages are shipped! Please let me know if you receive your package and I forgot to include something. Thanks. :DWill be looking for it :D thanks TFR. Can't wait for it!
Any sort of definite list of what we should be expecting in the package?
Case
LEDs
Switches (if purchased from MOZ)
Diodes
PCB
That's all I can get off the top of my head.
Any sort of definite list of what we should be expecting in the package?
Case
LEDs
Switches (if purchased from MOZ)
Diodes
PCB
That's all I can get off the top of my head.
love
Does it come with an instruction manual for construction? :PAny sort of definite list of what we should be expecting in the package?
Case
LEDs
Switches (if purchased from MOZ)
Diodes
PCB
That's all I can get off the top of my head.
love
Yes it comes with love, but also a few other important things. :pShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/SjJStvI.jpg)
From left to right, top to bottom.
-Bag of 22 blue switches
-Bag of resistors and capacitors, each individually bagged and labeled with their part number
-Bag of other parts including diodes, usb connector, microcontroller, button, and crystal
-Bag of 5 brass standoffs
-Bag of 4 LEDs
-PCB wrapped in foam
(Not pictured) Acrylic case if Moz didn't send yours directly
Does it come with an instruction manual for construction? :P
Does it come with an instruction manual for construction? :P
Nope, it's pretty self explanatory. Each component has a label. For example, R4 is resistor 4. On the PCB, there will be a spot that is labeled R4. Solder the resistor in the outline and you're all good! This is how it works for all the components. Just remember to start with the smallest components then work your way up.
Can't wait for a GB. Will it be complete kits only or will the cases be sold separately (acrylic assembly only, sans the pcb etc.)?
Got mine today. IT'S PURPLE!!! Pictures can be found here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=33130.msg1108803#msg1108803).Lookin good :cool:
I want one!!!Even for upwards of $60 I believe it would be a fair price, considering what the final product will be able to do.That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.
Ya, we will see what the pricing works out to. I think it will remain reasonable and it is going to be kick ass, so can't wait... :)
$60 without switches, stabs, and caps? So just the PCB+case?
I want one!!!
Get my money, please, pleaseeeEEE!!!
Can't wait for the group buy to start. Can someone PM me when it does?
No actual soldering done or anything yet, but I played with the case a bit. Sneak peek:Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20131108_224817_zpsf5d9af97.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20131108_224825_zpse44d3562.jpg)Show Image(http://i967.photobucket.com/albums/ae156/jbedwell81/20131108_224833_zpsa294f0e4.jpg)
Yes, but I couldn't make a couple of the holes line up because the engraving was a little off. On one hole the engraving wasn't deep enough to allow both screws to grab the brass standoff. I have a plan to open those holes up a bit until the flat head screws fit flush but this setup will do for now. I like it if I can figure out a good way to keep it from sliding.
They are long enough. You just have to position the brass standoff evenly between the three middle layers. Then do not tighten the top screw, tighten the bottom screws.
I understand what you're saying, but what I was saying is that on just one of the holes on my case, the engraving on one hole is off just enough so that it makes this difficult. It's not a problem with the screw. I am going to cleanup the engraved countersink holes and it will not be a problem at all. I do so love the screw-standoff-screw design
regack, since you have seen quality of seeedstudio, PCBWing and OSHPark, what are your views on them and comparisons.
I should note, I'm no kind of expert on this, but there is a Holiday Inn Express a few miles from here, and I rode past it the other day... :D
Yes, it will be.
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.
Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.
Edit: Just tried fitting a cap sideways. SP DCS caps fit since I think the cross on the bottom of them is symmetrical. My OEM filco caps don't fit rotated though, and neither do the OEM profile keys from my WASD tester. So it might be possible with the right caps.
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.
Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.
Measurement for a stem on a MX keycap. I used this for my latest brass cap and it fit very well. You could maybe make it a little smaller, and I would definitely recommend making it smaller if using plastic/acrylic.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/peWkmLZ.png)
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.
Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.
chook is correct, the "+" mounting's vertical hands are thinner than the horizontal hands. However, when forced on, you can mount the keycaps at 90 degress rotation, damagign the keycaps stem or slider or both.
A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard :)
Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.
Edit: Just tried fitting a cap sideways. SP DCS caps fit since I think the cross on the bottom of them is symmetrical. My OEM filco caps don't fit rotated though, and neither do the OEM profile keys from my WASD tester. So it might be possible with the right caps.
So with the prototype A, the pads for the diodes are sized incorrectly. SOD-323 or SOD-523 would fit, but SOD-123 is too big... you can glob on a bunch of solder, but it's terribly ugly.
So with the prototype A, the pads for the diodes are sized incorrectly. SOD-323 or SOD-523 would fit, but SOD-123 is too big... you can glob on a bunch of solder, but it's terribly ugly.
What are you going for? I size mine rather large as well. It allows you to fit SOD-123 (mostly) but it also allows 1206 and 1008 SMD parts to fit, which is nice. I personally prefer those :)
I would blame you, I should have ordered the right diodes based on the current footprints. Did you complete building your GHpad regack?
IIRC the latest version of qaz's epsilon tool supports mapping for GHPad.
IIRC the latest version of qaz's epsilon tool supports mapping for GHPad.
Just double checking, but the plate has the tabs for allowing the switch top to come off, right?
I think I found the issue, although I didn't really look into it to deep. I fired off a quick test build (attached). See if it works, pretty please? :)
Contains this simple test map:
(Attachment Link)
I think I found the issue, although I didn't really look into it to deep. I fired off a quick test build (attached). See if it works, pretty please? :)
Contains this simple test map:
(Attachment Link)
This is working. Thanks! Now I just need to finish putting parts on...
I think I found the issue, although I didn't really look into it to deep. I fired off a quick test build (attached). See if it works, pretty please? :)
Contains this simple test map:
(Attachment Link)
This is working. Thanks! Now I just need to finish putting parts on...
Awesome! Would you mind listing the problems that need fixing? That way other people building Prototype A will know and we can fix those problems for the final design.
This is working. Thanks!
ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
sigh
Luckily I have Amazon Prime so I can buy some MGChem flux and get it here by Saturday :>ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
sigh
IT FEELS SO BAD. And of course I had to get the one from china, which takes two to three weeks to ship.
</3 It was impossible to find that stuff on amazon.ca. I had to settle for a kester flux pen.Luckily I have Amazon Prime so I can buy some MGChem flux and get it here by Saturday :>ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
sigh
IT FEELS SO BAD. And of course I had to get the one from china, which takes two to three weeks to ship.
</3 It was impossible to find that stuff on amazon.ca. I had to settle for a kester flux pen.Luckily I have Amazon Prime so I can buy some MGChem flux and get it here by Saturday :>ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
sigh
IT FEELS SO BAD. And of course I had to get the one from china, which takes two to three weeks to ship.
Ah.. darn I wish I knew about them a little earlier. Is it possible to cancel an ebay order?</3 It was impossible to find that stuff on amazon.ca. I had to settle for a kester flux pen.Luckily I have Amazon Prime so I can buy some MGChem flux and get it here by Saturday :>ugh, I'm really sad since I can't assemble mine until my flux comes in the mail.o god this reminds me i forgot to buy flux with my tip
sigh
IT FEELS SO BAD. And of course I had to get the one from china, which takes two to three weeks to ship.
They are not the best prices, but they have pretty much everything you would need at ABRA and they will ship to you (where are you located?).
http://www.abra-electronics.com/categories/Soldering/Flux-And-Flux-Removers/
I bought all my RasPi stuff from them and I recently picked up a bunch of solder gear from them as well.
So has anyone else got these? USPS seems to be taking there sweet time.
So has anyone else got these? USPS seems to be taking there sweet time.
Yea I have no idea why they are taking so long. I'll be going to the local post office yet again to see what's up.
:(
If you have a multimeter (you should), the continuity check is your friend. But yes, sounds like a cold solder joint was broken when it fell. Sorry dude T_T
The tracking on my GHPad is still stuck on "Electronic Shipping Info Received" T_T
Gone forever. Always use insurance.
Well USPS called and said they did not ship the packages due to me using the incorrect boxes???? They said they would deliver the 7 packages back to my house. They still haven't arrived so I'll be going to the post office AGAIN to see what the problem is. I'm getting tired of your **** USPS.what?? :eek:
yeah you can't ship priority boxes using first class, or at least your not supposed to.
yeah you can't ship priority boxes using first class, or at least your not supposed to.oh, I thought it was something else. not priority through first class.
yeah you can't ship priority boxes using first class, or at least your not supposed to.
Been doing that for two years now and I've never had an issue.
Mine is still at this state, but as TFR said it looks to be resolvable, thank god. Post offices can be a prick. Indian post office says, if package is more than two kg, it has to be wrapped in cloth and sewed. Weird.Show Image(http://puu.sh/5mMdM.png)
:(
Mine is still at this state, but as TFR said it looks to be resolvable, thank god. Post offices can be a prick. Indian post office says, if package is more than two kg, it has to be wrapped in cloth and sewed. Weird.Show Image(http://puu.sh/5mMdM.png)
:(
"This thing is awesome" is what I'd say if I could grab some time to poke at it with the fluke and figure out what I broke :'(... Anyway, I thought this might motivate me...
(Attachment Link)
TFR don't forget about that PM I sent you!
Well I was able to rescue the packages from the post office today. They have been repackaged and will go out in the mail tomorrow. :thumb:awesome! :D thanks for all your effort into this, TFR.
So I was soldering on some of the components and I noticed this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/niPkcf0.jpg)
It seems baked onto the PCB... I've tried a lot of things to get it off (rubbing alcohol, cloth w/ water, flux, etc) and it's not coming off. I don't really care about the splatter, but it's covering R3 and I'm not sure if I should solder it on..
I'll try that here soon. :DSo I was soldering on some of the components and I noticed this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/niPkcf0.jpg)
It seems baked onto the PCB... I've tried a lot of things to get it off (rubbing alcohol, cloth w/ water, flux, etc) and it's not coming off. I don't really care about the splatter, but it's covering R3 and I'm not sure if I should solder it on..
Looks like some extra copper got baked into the PCB. Can you remove it with your soldering iron and some braid?
I'll try that here soon. :DSo I was soldering on some of the components and I noticed this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/niPkcf0.jpg)
It seems baked onto the PCB... I've tried a lot of things to get it off (rubbing alcohol, cloth w/ water, flux, etc) and it's not coming off. I don't really care about the splatter, but it's covering R3 and I'm not sure if I should solder it on..
Looks like some extra copper got baked into the PCB. Can you remove it with your soldering iron and some braid?
So far I've soldered on the microcontroller, USB port, C1 & C2. Tried soldering on the crystal but that was a fail.. might have to buy another crystal from digikey lol. I'm pretty sure I can do everything else, it's just the crystal that's difficult.
That sounds like fun. :D I think I managed to get a diode soldered up.. although I have no idea if it's even connected :\I'll try that here soon. :DSo I was soldering on some of the components and I noticed this:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/niPkcf0.jpg)
It seems baked onto the PCB... I've tried a lot of things to get it off (rubbing alcohol, cloth w/ water, flux, etc) and it's not coming off. I don't really care about the splatter, but it's covering R3 and I'm not sure if I should solder it on..
Looks like some extra copper got baked into the PCB. Can you remove it with your soldering iron and some braid?
So far I've soldered on the microcontroller, USB port, C1 & C2. Tried soldering on the crystal but that was a fail.. might have to buy another crystal from digikey lol. I'm pretty sure I can do everything else, it's just the crystal that's difficult.
The diodes will be really annoying because they're too big for the pads. I ended up getting one end on, then bridging to the other pad. I have fixed the pads to match the SOD-123 appropriately in the next revision.
Also, if you didn't see it, the silkscreen is impossible to read in a couple of spots, so I marked them up in this post here (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=38963.msg1112426#msg1112426)
Also, does anyone have any suggestions for soldering on the crystal without a hot air gun?
Also, does anyone have any suggestions for soldering on the crystal without a hot air gun?
regack, can you post a picture of the back of your PCB? I got everything except the diodes, switches, and R4 soldered (I literally cannot find R4 anywhere on the PCB. Front or back.) and it keeps saying "USB Device Not Recognized" when I plug it in.
Erm.... I have an SMD R4 that came with my PCB, not a through-hole.regack, can you post a picture of the back of your PCB? I got everything except the diodes, switches, and R4 soldered (I literally cannot find R4 anywhere on the PCB. Front or back.) and it keeps saying "USB Device Not Recognized" when I plug it in.
Oh, uhh, R4 is actually the through-hole resistor under the numlock (for the numlock LED)... that shouldn't have any effect on it recognizing the device. I think you'll have to get FLIP installed before it will actually recognize it though... at least I had to do that on 3 computers, but they were all Win x64 machines.
Did you install the driver?This is the error I get when I try to install the driver:
The first time you use Flip, you have to go find the unrecognized USB device in device manager, then tell it to use the driver that is included in the flip installation.
At least that's what I had to do.
Oh okay, then it isn't functioning correctly :(I don't have a multimeter to do that :(
Have you tried ohming out the resistors?
Oh okay, then it isn't functioning correctly :(I don't have a multimeter to do that :(
Have you tried ohming out the resistors?
Is there any special orientation to the resistors? Just trying to go over all the possibilities :\
The first time you use Flip, you have to go find the unrecognized USB device in device manager, then tell it to use the driver that is included in the flip installation.
At least that's what I had to do.
Yeah, but there is no proper device ID so Windows keeps telling me that there's no driver for that .inf :(The first time you use Flip, you have to go find the unrecognized USB device in device manager, then tell it to use the driver that is included in the flip installation.
At least that's what I had to do.
I had to do that too. 45 clicks to get to the 'Have Disk' button, then pick [installdir]\Atmel\Flip 3.4.7\usb\ as the search location. Windows found the right driver after that.
Yeah, but there is no proper device ID so Windows keeps telling me that there's no driver for that .inf :(
It's a hardware issue, tried it on multiple PC's and the same thing happens. Different USB cable too.Yeah, but there is no proper device ID so Windows keeps telling me that there's no driver for that .inf :(
I have no idea what might cause that...
"Device Descriptor Request Failed"Hmm, maybe there's touching solder on the USB connectors data lines? I checked so many times but I could have overlooked it
The AVR is drawing power but not properly responding on the data lines.
TFR don't forget about that PM I sent you!
Yup, yours is on my desk right now! Hopefully I'll have time to finish yours and mine GHpad this weekend.
it matters which way i solder on the diodes/resistors, right? if so, how do i know which way to put them on?Resisters don't matter. As for diodes I believe there is a stripe or line which shows the cathode (?) end.
it matters which way i solder on the diodes/resistors, right? if so, how do i know which way to put them on?
regack could you maybe post a photo of how you bridged the diodes? i'm having some real trouble soldering them.
Got all the diodes soldered on. Was actually fine once I got the method down. I just have them mounted at an angle, using solder to bridge the raised leg to the pad.Potato cam?
Unfortunately can't take pictures as I've lost my camera.
Will post photos tomorrow, as I've just remembered where my camera is. Unfortunately I won't be able to retrieve it until tomorrow. I literally have no other camera, not even a phone camera.Got all the diodes soldered on. Was actually fine once I got the method down. I just have them mounted at an angle, using solder to bridge the raised leg to the pad.Potato cam?
Unfortunately can't take pictures as I've lost my camera.
I am having a very difficult time with the diodes. Is there a different size I can order to fit the pads as they are? I'm a big noob when it comes to SMT stuff, and I can't quite figure out how to tell which one I need, so if someone could tell me which part numbers to order from mouser or digikey it would be helpful.
EDIT: What about these (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Inc/1N4148WT-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtoHjESLttvkg3793dFaTfhbRuv82Kuj88%3d)?
The data sheet on these suggest a center to center pad distance of 1.7mm. Using my calipers and measuring the pads we have on the proto PCB, this looks about right.
I am having a very difficult time with the diodes. Is there a different size I can order to fit the pads as they are? I'm a big noob when it comes to SMT stuff, and I can't quite figure out how to tell which one I need, so if someone could tell me which part numbers to order from mouser or digikey it would be helpful.
EDIT: What about these (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Diodes-Inc/1N4148WT-7/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtoHjESLttvkg3793dFaTfhbRuv82Kuj88%3d)?
The data sheet on these suggest a center to center pad distance of 1.7mm. Using my calipers and measuring the pads we have on the proto PCB, this looks about right.
I checked against the prototype design and the SOD-523 package should fit in the pads that are on there. The next board revision has been corrected for the SOD-123.
Ok, I just ordered 100 of these. I should have enough leftover to do 3 more PCBs, so if anyone hasn't done theirs yet and you want some of these extras, PM me.
You've been using too much solder. It's a newbie mistake. If you've bridged the pins, don't plug it in until you fix it.That's odd, because I had practically none whatsoever on my tip. I made sure to have as little as possible, and everything seemed to go absolutely fine.
You've been using too much solder. It's a newbie mistake. If you've bridged the pins, don't plug it in until you fix it.That's odd, because I had practically none whatsoever on my tip. I made sure to have as little as possible, and everything seemed to go absolutely fine.
And there's another problem. I plugged it in to test it, and since it came up with an error that made me realise the USB joints were bridged. Now windows won't give me an error or anything. I guess the question is.. what have I broken? :'(
I've got some flux, but no small braid. I was using the pointed tip that came with my 888D, by far the smallest I have access too. I think the flux application was a bit hit and miss, since the tip of this crappy flux pen has become all mushed and useless. I ended up applying the flux with a very small screwdriver. Maybe I should get a bonpen...+1 bonpen. I have one sitting here doing nothing :D
I will try and get my hands on some small braid and try and desolder it. The problem is that the bridge is right in that gap. I don't think I can even reach it with my iron tip.
but if you can't even reach it with your tip, you don't have much chanceThat's what I was thinking.. A hot air gun would be very handy for this. Maybe i'll see if I can find a better tip for the job.
try the hot air gun first - it`s easier than you think.but if you can't even reach it with your tip, you don't have much chanceThat's what I was thinking.. A hot air gun would be very handy for this. Maybe i'll see if I can find a better tip for the job.
try the hot air gun first - it`s easier than you think.but if you can't even reach it with your tip, you don't have much chanceThat's what I was thinking.. A hot air gun would be very handy for this. Maybe i'll see if I can find a better tip for the job.
Received the case in the mail today! I feel there are a few small things that need to be changed but overall it looks great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/CE1IiI2.jpg)
As we know for different people they use different kinds of mobile phone signals. Just as the people around you like your friends, your colleagues, your family members and so on, they may use the different mobile phone signals as now there are various mobile phone signals from different companies and of which the frequency bands are also different such as the CDMA, GSM, DCS, PCS, 3G, 4G LTE and 4G Wimax. So in different conditions and circumstances people are in need of the cell phone signal jammers that of different frequency bands. But if people are in great need of a cell phone signal jammer via which they can decide the jamming frequency bands what kind of device should they choose? Of course, the adjustable cell phone jammer is the best for them in such condition.what
As we know for different people they use different kinds of mobile phone signals. Just as the people around you like your friends, your colleagues, your family members and so on, they may use the different mobile phone signals as now there are various mobile phone signals from different companies and of which the frequency bands are also different such as the CDMA, GSM, DCS, PCS, 3G, 4G LTE and 4G Wimax. So in different conditions and circumstances people are in need of the cell phone signal jammers that of different frequency bands. But if people are in great need of a cell phone signal jammer via which they can decide the jamming frequency bands what kind of device should they choose? Of course, the adjustable cell phone jammer is the best for them in such condition.what
GG. I give up. I lost 2 diodes, broke 1 and now I don't have enough diodes to finish. I got 1 diode and the crystal on. I don't know how the hell you guys got those fricken diodes on but I sure couldn't.
No idea what kind I could buy that would fit the pads.
No idea what kind I could buy that would fit the pads.
The alpha prototype would fit SOD-523 diodes best probably (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Micro-Commercial-Components-MCC/1N4148X-TP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtoHjESLttvknyDsOtDHAfwI2C3xiL1dBQ%3d) but I just ordered 1000 of the SOD123 ones, so I can just send you some of those if you want.
I honestly can't figure out how you guys managed to solder on the SOD123 ones.
I honestly can't figure out how you guys managed to solder on the SOD123 ones.Show Image(http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/196zdr324f5ksgif/original.gif)
The alpha prototype would fit SOD-523 diodes best probably (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Micro-Commercial-Components-MCC/1N4148X-TP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtoHjESLttvknyDsOtDHAfwI2C3xiL1dBQ%3d) but I just ordered 1000 of the SOD123 ones, so I can just send you some of those if you want.
I got some of the SOD-523 1N4148's in today, as well. I have enough for you, dragonxx21, if you want them. Just send me a PM.Actually just bought some off of whiskytango. The timinggggg. But thank you for the thought jdcarpe :)
I got some of the SOD-523 1N4148's in today, as well. I have enough for you, dragonxx21, if you want them. Just send me a PM.Actually just bought some off of whiskytango. The timinggggg. But thank you for the thought jdcarpe :)
Just sad that I have to wait even longer to get my ghpad made, but I know for sure I can't get it done with those silly 123 diodes.
So I'm getting one of these:Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33130.0;attach=47804;image)
Have no clue what revision it is, I haven't been keeping up at all with this thread I'm just going to build it and let you guys know what difficulties I come across. What diodes do I need?
So I'm getting one of these:Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33130.0;attach=47804;image)
Have no clue what revision it is, I haven't been keeping up at all with this thread I'm just going to build it and let you guys know what difficulties I come across. What diodes do I need?
From the pads, it looks like you need SOD-123 package 1N4148 diodes.
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440
so this is a thing
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440)
so this is a thing
Yes, but those are regack's renders. Why no pics of the actual PCBs?
So I'm getting one of these:Show Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33130.0;attach=47804;image)
Have no clue what revision it is, I haven't been keeping up at all with this thread I'm just going to build it and let you guys know what difficulties I come across. What diodes do I need? Anything else I need to know or can I just assemble and program as I normally would ?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440)
so this is a thing
Yes, but those are regack's renders. Why no pics of the actual PCBs?
They probably haven't made them yet :p
It would have been so cool to get a black PCB :(There will be more... unless everyone votes for yellow or something
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440 (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.fHrYJp&scm=1007.10009.257.0&id=36010050440)
so this is a thing
Yes, but those are regack's renders. Why no pics of the actual PCBs?
They probably haven't made them yet :p
Well, I hope they tested them first... (I can't see the link, it's not loading for me.) I know there were tiny problems with previous revisions, and this one is pretty significantly different than the one that people are currently testing.It would have been so cool to get a black PCB :(There will be more... unless everyone votes for yellow or something
May as well post here so everyone else can see!
So this is previous rev:
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/master
This is the experimental?
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/GHpad
Gonna get 1 of each made if so ;D
Where are you guys getting your atmega32u4s from?
Oh I guess I'll need a 32U4 as well ^_^
They're out of stock at Digikey, Mouser, and Newark. I saw it coming and tried to buy a bunch of them, but screwed it up. Still kicking myself over that.
May as well post here so everyone else can see!
So this is previous rev:
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/master
This is the experimental?
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/GHpad
Gonna get 1 of each made if so ;D
Where are you guys getting your atmega32u4s from?
You're going to make your own prototypes? Okay. :P
I bought my 32U4's from DigiKey thru metalliqaz, but I think they went out of stock...not sure.
They're out of stock at Digikey, Mouser, and Newark. I saw it coming and tried to buy a bunch of them, but screwed it up. Still kicking myself over that.
Wow, I thought mouser had some left after that... they're all out now?
Mhmm, I was asking for what I needed :P
Oh I guess I'll need a 32U4 as well ^_^you can order free samples from AVR ...
If you wanted to attempt to desolder a 32U4 (hopefully in TQFP44 package size) from a breakout board, you might want to use Chip Quick. Otherwise I foresee a hard time.
digikey has 830 of the ATMEGA32U4-AUR... but I'm not clear on what the difference is from ATMEGA32U4-AU. Is it just packaging?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ATMEGA32U4-AUR/ATMEGA32U4-AURCT-ND/3440960
R4 is actually a through-hole resistor for the numlck led and should be sized accordingly for the led chosen. It's easier to just find through hole ones lying about, which is why it is not smd. I suppose that could be changed.So the R4 we have doesn't actually go anywhere?
R4 is actually a through-hole resistor for the numlck led and should be sized accordingly for the led chosen. It's easier to just find through hole ones lying about, which is why it is not smd. I suppose that could be changed.So the R4 we have doesn't actually go anywhere?
Ref Value Quantity Footprint Part
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
C1,C2 22pF 2 804 VJ0805A220GXXCW1BC
C3, C8 1uF 2 805 VJ0805Y105JXQTW1BC
C4..C7 0.1uF 4 805 VJ0805Y104JXXAC
D1..D24 1N4148 24 SOD-123 1N4148
IC1 ATMEGA32U4 1 TQFP44 ATmega32U4-AU
J1 USB MINI-B 1 Molex 67503-1020
R1,R2 22 Ohm 2 805 CRCW080522R0JNTABC
R3, R5 10 kOhm 1 805 CRCW080510K0FKEB
S0 ADTSMW69NVTR 1 tact sw 6.30x6.20mm
X1 7M-16.000MAAJ-T 1 16MHz Crystal
S1..S211 MX1A 17-24 CHERRY MX Quantity Depends on Layout
-
DC1..DF3 LED 4 through-hole User Choice
R4 ? kOhm 1 through-hole Value depends on DC1 LED
RF1 ? kOhm 1 through-hole Value depends on DF1 LED
RF2 ? kOhm 1 through-hole Value depends on DF2 LED
RF3 ? kOhm 1 through-hole Value depends on DF3 LED
-
U1 MCP23018 1 SSOP24 MCP23018-E/SS *MCP OPTION*
R6,R7 2.2 kOhm 2 805 CRCW08052K20JNEA *MCP OPTION*
So I'm getting one of these:AhhhhhhShow Image(http://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=33130.0;attach=47804;image)
Have no clue what revision it is, I haven't been keeping up at all with this thread I'm just going to build it and let you guys know what difficulties I come across. What diodes do I need? Anything else I need to know or can I just assemble and program as I normally would ?
I was originally going to have them made as a one off order, but then it dawned on me that I could just order off oshpark, since the pcb is pretty small.Hmmm, kinda expensive for 3 small PCBs ...
It's only $66.60 for 3 units
I was originally going to have them made as a one off order, but then it dawned on me that I could just order off oshpark, since the pcb is pretty small.Hmmm, kinda expensive for 3 small PCBs ...
It's only $66.60 for 3 units
Have you tried Seedstudio - Fusion PCB (http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php)? I think you can get 10 PCBs (10cm x 10cm ) per less than 40 bucks ...
For 10cm x 10cm I'm getting 10 by US$ 24,90 + shipping (PCB without the extra row, the area to be cutted off)I was originally going to have them made as a one off order, but then it dawned on me that I could just order off oshpark, since the pcb is pretty small.Hmmm, kinda expensive for 3 small PCBs ...
It's only $66.60 for 3 units
Have you tried Seedstudio - Fusion PCB (http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php)? I think you can get 10 PCBs (10cm x 10cm ) per less than 40 bucks ...
im getting ~$44 + $12 shipping from seeed studio's calculator for 5 units.
realistically, I am probably only going to use 2 pcbs.
unless someone wants a lot of units, I'm just going to order from osh park near the end of the week (so that it doesn't arrive while im out of town for the holidays)
I need better eyes for these SOD-123 diodes. I think I soldered them on backwards. Surely there is an 0805 or 0603 package diode that will fit the pad footprint?
I need better eyes for these SOD-123 diodes. I think I soldered them on backwards. Surely there is an 0805 or 0603 package diode that will fit the pad footprint?
I thought you said you ordered some 523s?
I have soldered on all my 523 diodes. They are freaking tiny! The most time-consuming part was figuring out which end was the cathode. I have a lamp with built in magnifier, and I found that you could hold a diode right under the light and tilt it until the light would shine just right off of it so you could make out the markings. You can also tell which direction it's facing by the direction of the text on the diode. Mine said T4 or something like that and the cathode band was always in the same orientation to the text as shown on the data sheet.
I am now just waiting on a capacitor. I dropped one of mine and lost the little thing, so I ordered some more from digi-key. I needed some resistors and through hole diodes anyway, so that's not a huge deal.
For 10cm x 10cm I'm getting 10 by US$ 24,90 + shipping (PCB without the extra row, the area to be cutted off)I was originally going to have them made as a one off order, but then it dawned on me that I could just order off oshpark, since the pcb is pretty small.Hmmm, kinda expensive for 3 small PCBs ...
It's only $66.60 for 3 units
Have you tried Seedstudio - Fusion PCB (http://www.seeedstudio.com/service/index.php)? I think you can get 10 PCBs (10cm x 10cm ) per less than 40 bucks ...
im getting ~$44 + $12 shipping from seeed studio's calculator for 5 units.
realistically, I am probably only going to use 2 pcbs.
unless someone wants a lot of units, I'm just going to order from osh park near the end of the week (so that it doesn't arrive while im out of town for the holidays)
For 10cm x 15cm I'm getting 10 by US$ 55,90 + shipping (complete PCB)
PCB Qty.......: 10
PCB Layers....: 2
PCB Thickness.: 1.6mm
PCB Dimension.: 10cm max * 10cm max OR 10cm max * 15cm max
PCB Color.....: Green
Surface Finish: Hasl
The dimensions of ghpad are 75.54x113.77 mmYup, this is the dimension for the complete PCB, one 6x4 keypad.
Hmm yes, actually I'd be more interested in a 5x4 than a 6x4For small packages it is okay.
I didn't want to make a big production out of it. Of course with untested stuff like this there is a risk :p
Though I saw that you are in brazil, it may not be worth it to ship between USA (where I am) and brazil
Oh ok, that sounds good.
I can do an order of 20, anyone else want some?
Let me know w/ the file. If I remember correctly its just cutting off that marked part from the bottom.
If I remember correctly its just cutting off that marked part from the bottom.Yup - that's it.
You know, I could just re-order 20 of them from PCBwing at $5.50/pcb + shipping...
I'm just not trying to get into the middle of a group buy....
I'm just not trying to get into the middle of a group buy....lol
Oh that's right, is the $5.50 for the 5 or 6 row?
I think $5.50/pcb is in line with what seeedstudio charges for the 6row layout.
Could someone summarize the progress and where it is at currently? Any upcoming prototype runs?We are testing Regack work.
Oh that's right, is the $5.50 for the 5 or 6 row?
I think $5.50/pcb is in line with what seeedstudio charges for the 6row layout.
Yeah, that was for the 6-row with black soldermask and chemical gold... I didn't have a 4x5 made there... but anyway, try this one out:
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/4x5
I removed the bottom row stuff and extra footprints that were not necessary, as well as the pin references to row 6 on the MCP23018 and such...
This is from the 0.12.1 revision, so it has the silkscreen fixes for the diodes and R6 & R7.
Also... my apologies to agodinhost for preempting you...
GOSH, you are way quick man!
Thank you!!! :thumb:Could someone summarize the progress and where it is at currently? Any upcoming prototype runs?We are testing Regack work.
Be aware that small mistakes are still possible and no one is authorized to rape Regack because of it.
:-X
So, whom is going to get the money?
Via paypal?
Is that you phatdood9?
Oh that's right, is the $5.50 for the 5 or 6 row?
I think $5.50/pcb is in line with what seeedstudio charges for the 6row layout.
Yeah, that was for the 6-row with black soldermask and chemical gold... I didn't have a 4x5 made there... but anyway, try this one out:
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/4x5
I removed the bottom row stuff and extra footprints that were not necessary, as well as the pin references to row 6 on the MCP23018 and such...
This is from the 0.12.1 revision, so it has the silkscreen fixes for the diodes and R6 & R7.
Also... my apologies to agodinhost for preempting you...
how many did you order? pcbwing calculator shows $9.83ea with 75.54x94.97mm dimensions (chemical gold rohs, black solder mask)
Could someone summarize the progress and where it is at currently? Any upcoming prototype runs?
So with the latest revision, one should be able to connect a ribbon cable between the GH60 and the GHPad, and program the firmware on the GH60 to recognize the new switches on the GHpad, correct?
Oh that's right, is the $5.50 for the 5 or 6 row?
I think $5.50/pcb is in line with what seeedstudio charges for the 6row layout.
Yeah, that was for the 6-row with black soldermask and chemical gold... I didn't have a 4x5 made there... but anyway, try this one out:
https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/4x5
I removed the bottom row stuff and extra footprints that were not necessary, as well as the pin references to row 6 on the MCP23018 and such...
This is from the 0.12.1 revision, so it has the silkscreen fixes for the diodes and R6 & R7.
Also... my apologies to agodinhost for preempting you...
how many did you order? pcbwing calculator shows $9.83ea with 75.54x94.97mm dimensions (chemical gold rohs, black solder mask)
PCBWing will show tooling fees for initial-run and re-orders. In this case, I went to my last order and started the re-order process to see what the cost would be to get more of the 4x6. That's where I got my cost from. The 4x5 would be a whole new order and would suffer from 'initial-run' setup costs.
I am down for whatever, but is there a reason we can't just order more of the 4x6 PCBs and break off the bottom if we want 4x5? It seems it would be cheaper. Either way, I'm in for any option that gets me a 4x5
I am down for whatever, but is there a reason we can't just order more of the 4x6 PCBs and break off the bottom if we want 4x5? It seems it would be cheaper. Either way, I'm in for any option that gets me a 4x5
I like the idea, mainly because I want a 4x6. I suppose the next run is the final run, or are there any major revisions planned large enough to warrant a new prototype run?
Going to place the order in a couple hrs, anyone have a pcb color that that don't like?
btw, going with white pcb unless anyone objects !
turned out to just be a difference in naming convention
I placed the order, it will ship to jdcarpe and he can distribute.
Total including shipping is $20 per 5, so $4 per pcb.
I ordered in white :p
I missed it again :( and even more sad since it's more convenient 4x5 that I want :'(
Somebody somewhere offers purple. I had a motherboard in purple before.
I missed it again :( and even more sad since it's more convenient 4x5 that I want :'(
Somebody somewhere offers purple. I had a motherboard in purple before.
Pretty sure Gold Phoenix offers purple.
Oh, can the SMD work if any be done for me by someone? I am sure I would ruin it if I had to try it.
That's why I got more than I needed, I've never dome smd soldering before :p
Isn't most of it just using solder paste w/ a heat gun?
one day i will have a ghpad.....maybe....
one day i will have a ghpad.....maybe....
TFR hasn't shipped it yet?
one day i will have a ghpad.....maybe....
TFR hasn't shipped it yet?
Well he didn't want me to ship it because he wanted the SMD soldering done. I offered to do if for free but he got tired of waiting so it was sent to JDcarpe to do the SMD soldering.
it matters which way i solder on the diodes/resistors, right? if so, how do i know which way to put them on?
Resistors don't have polarity, so they can go anyway you want.
As for the diodes, the grey line on the diode goes on the side marked below, to identify the end, you need to look for the straight line on the silkscreen shown below:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BljMusg.jpg)
it matters which way i solder on the diodes/resistors, right? if so, how do i know which way to put them on?
Resistors don't have polarity, so they can go anyway you want.
As for the diodes, the grey line on the diode goes on the side marked below, to identify the end, you need to look for the straight line on the silkscreen shown below:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BljMusg.jpg)
I installed my diodes exactly as MOZ said above. The gray line on the diode on the same side as the straight line on the silkscreen. And yet somehow, ALL of my diodes appear to be backwards. Can anyone else confirm that the silkscreen on the Prototype A is backwards? Or am I doing something wrong? I matched the cathode ban on my diodes with the cathode side (straight line) of the solder pads as MOZ's picture points out above.
Now, I have installed everything, flashed the firmware, and the only way I can get keys to register is if I short one side of the switch with the out-going side of the diode. If I short it to the other side of the diode, nothing happens. This tells me I have the diodes backwards, right?
regack, if you're reading this, how did you align your diodes? Like MOZ said above, or opposite?
Thanks. I am excited that at least the thing appears to be working.
EDIT: I just flipped one diode around and tested the board again. That key works now. So I guess now I am going to flip all of these diodes around. Oh boy...
Thanks swill. Although, I don't think that would have really helped me here. I wasn't thinking in terms of + or -, but rather I was matching the cathode line on the diode to the cathode line on the PCB. I was also going off what MOZ said. He posted that pic that I quoted above, and no one corrected him that I could see, so I assumed it was right...So for your diodes they need to be flipped around? *takes mental note*
Ok, so I just desoldered, flipped, and then resoldered all of the diodes on this thing. AND IT WORKS!. Hooray. And HUGE props to metalliqaz for his Easy AVR USB Firmware Keymapper (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.msg1127412#msg1127412), that thing is awesome!
Ray, I just received your GHPad in the mail yesterday. I will get it soldered for you and in the mail soon. It really depends on my work schedule and cetera.
Just because this is going to confuse a lot of people...
Here is an image of SMD diodes:Show Image(http://cdn.head-fi.org/3/34/34277ff9_Cap-elko-smd-polarity.jpg)
Here is a diagram of Anode / Cathode and a through hole diode:Show Image(http://modeltrainadvisors.com/wp-content/uploads/diode-markings.jpg)
And an image with a board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hV8DTsi.jpg]http://i.imgur.com/hV8DTsi.jpg)
NOTICE: The line on the through hole diode is at the Cathode end. Also, notice that on the SMD, the line is on the Anode side. So to me, it looks like the line means different things between SMD and through hole diodes...
Just because this is going to confuse a lot of people...
Here is an image of SMD diodes:Show Image(http://cdn.head-fi.org/3/34/34277ff9_Cap-elko-smd-polarity.jpg)
Here is a diagram of Anode / Cathode and a through hole diode:Show Image(http://modeltrainadvisors.com/wp-content/uploads/diode-markings.jpg)
And an image with a board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hV8DTsi.jpg]http://i.imgur.com/hV8DTsi.jpg)
NOTICE: The line on the through hole diode is at the Cathode end. Also, notice that on the SMD, the line is on the Anode side. So to me, it looks like the line means different things between SMD and through hole diodes...
I have to completely disagree.
I just reviewed a number of datasheets,
both through-hole and SMA/SMB, and in
_ALL_ cases the band or notch denotes
the cathode of the diode.
In any case, it would be wise to refer to
the data sheet for your particular part,
but I do not expect any variance on this
aspect.
That picture is of polarized capacitors. Those devices will
This image has to be wrong then?Show Image(http://cdn.head-fi.org/3/34/34277ff9_Cap-elko-smd-polarity.jpg)
When these go into GB stage will the SMD work be predone?
When these go into GB stage will the SMD work be predone?
The answer is almost certainly yes. Not many people are comfortable doing SMD soldering.
@SpamRay: With all the cluster**** in my life, I can't say anything to TFR, however I can hope that you get your board soon.
As for the diode thing, I'm sorry but happy it got sorted out.
Regarding the design of the acrylic, the thickness is an issue, and I believe it is better to go with thinner top plate (~2.5), however acrylic thickness tolerance is a big issue as I have found out from various venders, they themselves have to face this problem and it all comes down to what is available when you are looking for it, and often means compromising.
... Black Petal, and Frosty Flake ...sorry my ignorance, what is it?
... Black Petal, and Frosty Flake ...sorry my ignorance, what is it?
Just want to point out to WhiskyTango and anyone else who got diodes from WhiskyTango. The sheets he sent me did in fact show that the band was to signify the cathode (-) end and not the anode (+) end.
That solder mask has a bit of a half face/phantom of the opera thing going on. It kind of would have fit the Phantom. Are the markings for the diodes on that side visible at all? I guess one just has to double-check the orientations of the SMDs more carefully.
That solder mask has a bit of a half face/phantom of the opera thing going on. It kind of would have fit the Phantom. Are the markings for the diodes on that side visible at all? I guess one just has to double-check the orientations of the SMDs more carefully.
Yeah, it's very unique/odd. You can see enough of the diode silkscreens to guess how the others are oriented. We will need a guide for where to place other components, though. :)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Are the silkscreens for the diodes the correct orientation in this image? :)
(Attachment Link)
Are the silkscreens for the diodes the correct orientation in this image? :)
(Attachment Link)
Are the silkscreens for the diodes the correct orientation in this image? :)
well, the markings are correct to electrically indicate anode/cathode... but not necessarily with respect to how the diodes themselves are marked by the manufacturer... I ordered some SMD LEDs... two different brands... they had the EXACT same markings on the bottom... but were opposite from each other... it was really annoying.
like this:
(Attachment Link)
Just want to point out to WhiskyTango and anyone else who got diodes from WhiskyTango. The sheets he sent me did in fact show that the band was to signify the cathode (-) end and not the anode (+) end.
If it hasn't been programmed yet, you need to updated the driver on the unrecognized device with the DFU driver from the Flip installation directory. I've said it so many times...
If it hasn't been programmed yet, you need to updated the driver on the unrecognized device with the DFU driver from the Flip installation directory. I've said it so many times...Honestly I wouldn't be posting here if I hadn't already tried that. I've tried FLIP as well as DFU-Programmer.
If it hasn't been programmed yet, you need to updated the driver on the unrecognized device with the DFU driver from the Flip installation directory. I've said it so many times...
And sometimes I haven't even got that to work. I had to program my GH60 with dfu-programmer on linux. Couldn't get Windows to recognize it at all, even after uninstalling/reinstalling the Flip driver.
I have a bunch of .1uF caps, but I don't know how long it would take to get to you...
I have a bunch of .1uF caps, but I don't know how long it would take to get to you...
I don't mind waiting. WhiskyTango said he could hook me up with a few so I think I'm good for now.
I hope that's the problem. Worse case scenario is something blew up because the capacitor wasn't in. Hopefully not since it was one of the capacitors for the crystal.I have a bunch of .1uF caps, but I don't know how long it would take to get to you...
I don't mind waiting. WhiskyTango said he could hook me up with a few so I think I'm good for now.
Ok. I'm not sure if it will or won't work with that missing... or maybe not work right? Could be why it's acting up.
I hope that's the problem. Worse case scenario is something blew up because the capacitor wasn't in. Hopefully not since it was one of the capacitors for the crystal.I have a bunch of .1uF caps, but I don't know how long it would take to get to you...
I don't mind waiting. WhiskyTango said he could hook me up with a few so I think I'm good for now.
Ok. I'm not sure if it will or won't work with that missing... or maybe not work right? Could be why it's acting up.
^
ATmega32U4-AUR is in stock.
What's difference between AU and AUR? Part list says AU
^ Me still waiting on some stuff :(
It's so true!^ Me still waiting on some stuff :(
the best thing to do is forget about it then when/if it shows up you can be excited
Got my capacitors in from WhiskyTango and soldered them in. IT WORKS! Although I don't know how to get the LEDs working, do I need to actually put it in the firmware to get them to work? And if so, how do I do so with metalliqaz's easy firmware?
I'd really like to thank everyone who's helped me out with making the GHpad. It is technically the first group buy I've been in and it's been a really positive experience. Thanks to, TFR/Regack/MOZ and everyone else involved in design/distribution as well as Halverson and Kravlin for selling/giving me that awesome miami stuff, WhiskyTango for passing along some parts that I needed, LONGZILLA for being a sick secret santa and everyone who helped answer questions that I had and helped troubleshoot.
Pictures of the thing:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g9mK6qU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C0oNXxi.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wVfLjQB.jpg)
Looks great, specially with that purple cable.Yeah, there was a darker purple that I didn't see until after I ordered this one, but it still turned out well.
Got my capacitors in from WhiskyTango and soldered them in. IT WORKS! Although I don't know how to get the LEDs working, do I need to actually put it in the firmware to get them to work? And if so, how do I do so with metalliqaz's easy firmware?
I'd really like to thank everyone who's helped me out with making the GHpad. It is technically the first group buy I've been in and it's been a really positive experience. Thanks to, TFR/Regack/MOZ and everyone else involved in design/distribution as well as Halverson and Kravlin for selling/giving me that awesome miami stuff, WhiskyTango for passing along some parts that I needed, LONGZILLA for being a sick secret santa and everyone who helped answer questions that I had and helped troubleshoot.
Pictures of the thing:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/g9mK6qU.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/C0oNXxi.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wVfLjQB.jpg)
Got my capacitors in from WhiskyTango and soldered them in. IT WORKS! Although I don't know how to get the LEDs working, do I need to actually put it in the firmware to get them to work? And if so, how do I do so with metalliqaz's easy firmware?
I'd really like to thank everyone who's helped me out with making the GHpad. It is technically the first group buy I've been in and it's been a really positive experience. Thanks to, TFR/Regack/MOZ and everyone else involved in design/distribution as well as Halverson and Kravlin for selling/giving me that awesome miami stuff, WhiskyTango for passing along some parts that I needed, LONGZILLA for being a sick secret santa and everyone who helped answer questions that I had and helped troubleshoot.
Pictures of the thing:
These are amazing! Id love a numpad with removable USB Cord and full time arrows..
Totally overrated.... :-X
Looks great, specially with that purple cable.Yeah, there was a darker purple that I didn't see until after I ordered this one, but it still turned out well.
P.S. So, how would I go about getting the LEDs to work? Also, how can I change the firmware on it? I tried using FLIP but it isn't connecting to the USB. Do I have to press the reset button?
not right now, but I will be after I get my phantom operational again. Both of my TKLs are down right now.
So ray, did you just never get your PCB? that sucks
I got the cable made by TFR. It's nice right? :DLooks great, specially with that purple cable.Yeah, there was a darker purple that I didn't see until after I ordered this one, but it still turned out well.
P.S. So, how would I go about getting the LEDs to work? Also, how can I change the firmware on it? I tried using FLIP but it isn't connecting to the USB. Do I have to press the reset button?
Where'd you get that cable... I wants one...
Try hitting reset to change the ATMEGA into bootloader mode, I don't think it defaults there.
From FLIP you'll then make sure to change to the atmega32u4, then select USB. You might have to update the drivers to get it to see everything.
Resistors have no polarity, so it shouldn't matter unless you meant diodes.
And, I too think, regack has got the polarity/convention slightly wrong, the bar is _ALWAYS_ on the cathode end, in the image above, the bar is on the anode end, which I would say is wrong.
Ok, so I finally saw what everyone has already seen and I failed to see D: - anyway, I fixed the silkscreen on the SOD-123 diodes to indicate the line properly. The anode/cathode indicator in the middle stayed the same, just the line moved to the other side where it should be. Sorry about that.
fixed for both the 4x6 github files (https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/GHpad) and 4x5 github files (https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/4x5).
There's also an error with diode D5 (switch 5, the '0' key). It works fine, you just have to install the diode backwards from all of the others. I didn't quite catch this, since installed some of the diodes backwards at the bottom of the board :'( ... only working on the 4x5 version did I catch it. The silkscreen and whatnot is fixed in the posted github revisions.
I made a layout using hasu's firmware on the 4x6 that I cut into a 4x5. The diode for S20 I had to mount opposite of all of the others (I think it's S20?).
I'm pretty sure I fixed all of those things in one of the most recent revisions, but none of the PCBs were made with those fixes :(
I made a layout using hasu's firmware on the 4x6 that I cut into a 4x5. The diode for S20 I had to mount opposite of all of the others (I think it's S20?).
I'm pretty sure I fixed all of those things in one of the most recent revisions, but none of the PCBs were made with those fixes :(
I just checked the latest revission from github, it still has the wrong silkscreen.
Oh S20? I mounted them all the same, except reverse for S5
I'll mess around with it when I am at home tonight, its just a shot with the heat gun.
I'm only using the numlock led and it is working. I didn't see the point in the other three.Like it is working by default? I'm trying to figure out how to get mine working :P What did you use to make your firmware?
yeah, mine was working by default. I used metalliqaz's easy avr firmware (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0).Through hole resistors? I believe they came with SMD ones and not through hole.
Possible that your physical connections are not correct? You have to have led legs in right order and have to have a through hole resistor int he right place.
yeah, mine was working by default. I used metalliqaz's easy avr firmware (http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0).Through hole resistors? I believe they came with SMD ones and not through hole.
Possible that your physical connections are not correct? You have to have led legs in right order and have to have a through hole resistor int he right place.
Just going to double check... For the LEDs does the square signify the anode or the cathode end?
Does anyone have any extra brass standoffs for the moz GHPad case, I never got those. :(
The Atmega is finally back in stock on mouser! :D
I guess that means the last part I need is the PCB. Should I be talking with jdcarpe or phatdood9?
Does anyone have any extra brass standoffs for the moz GHPad case, I never got those. :(
I probably have your standoffs, Ray. If I do, I'll pop them in the mail to you. Sorry about that.
So on this design, the resistors are connected AFTER the LED in the circuit? That is, the vcc goes to LED anode first, then the LED cathode is connected to the resistor, and the resistor goes to ground through the controller chip? So the controller chip does not control when voltage is applied but rather when the LED circuit is grounded? After following all the traces, this is what I think is going on, just trying to confirm. I am obviously still learning here, and this I find fascinating.
Sorry about the wrong answer earlier, dragon. Glad MOZ was paying attention.
cool ray, what is that on the left? 4x5 ghpad?
I have decided I want to put one of these together. Where can I purchase the parts necessary? Has there been a GB for this already?
no group buy yet. phatdood9 may still have some extra PCBs from the latest round of prototypes that were ordered. regack's github (https://github.com/regack/4x6/tree/4x5)has a parts list in it that you can order from mouser or digikey
just fyi, phatdood told me he has been crazy busy with work, so he probably won't be able to answer you very quickly.
MOZ had the first prototype acrylic cases made. Not sure if he's taking on any more orders for them or not right now. He has an IC posted somewhere for a potential acrylic case GB
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
What firmware are you using w/ the 4x5?
I haven't had time to look at it recently, but I was having some issues previously w/ the tmk firmware and the bottom row.
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
No, but looks like a winner to me.
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
No, but looks like a winner to me.
JD who do you use to proxy things?
Bhiner usually. No bad experiences yet.
Bhiner usually. No bad experiences yet.
Is he CONUS? If not, should we bundle an order if there are a few of us orderings? I'm happy to volunteer.
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
It seems we can not get it from Taobao seller directly.
Anyone use the same item on this site as follow? can be shipped by EMS, China Post, DHL.
http://www.pabbos.com/38746408917.shtml
I am not sure.
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
Anyone get one of these?
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.0.0.OEDdax&id=38746408917&scm=1007.10039.737.0&pvid=ca181b91-0128-468d-9de5-58403815de91
Is that an aluminium case for 30$??
It looks like it :thumb:
But it seems to only be available in red and it is taobao after all so.....ymmv
gosh!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b403Di2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/EK8o6Wm.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rnJcg01.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/kmStasQ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/SDWfsOA.jpg)
Received my GHpad pcb few weeks ago, I did a little mod and sanding since the plate layout is fixed and only clear acrylic case is available.
Sorry potatoes:Show Image(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/hmwgbworld/GHpad/WP_20140505_004_zps11791425.jpg)Show Image(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/hmwgbworld/GHpad/WP_20140505_009_zps111d5643.jpg)Show Image(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/hmwgbworld/GHpad/WP_20140505_013_zpsfc3f1d70.jpg)Show Image(http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l190/hmwgbworld/GHpad/WP_20140505_020_zps129851af.jpg)
LED Effects Demo:
Acrylic works really well with LEDs.When using good quality laser cutted acrylic yes.
Has anyone that is part of this dev group tested this with the gh60?
Does this still integrate with the gh60 or is this it's own standalone keypad?
I am good either way I was just curious.
If the pcb's seem to be finished for these I would like to either source a pcb or split the cost of a batch @ oshpark with a few other people.
I really wish I got in on that last run of 4x6 pcbs. I realized the run was going to happen like 2 days after it was finalized. :( Now it has been like 6 months and there has been no movement on this.
I really wish I got in on that last run of 4x6 pcbs. I realized the run was going to happen like 2 days after it was finalized. :( Now it has been like 6 months and there has been no movement on this.
Just get one of these PCBs. They are GHpads : http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=59950.0
Man mine has all the SMD stuff done but I can't get it to even detect on my computer :( put it on hold for now :\ (it's the black pcb prototype)
Man mine has all the SMD stuff done but I can't get it to even detect on my computer :( put it on hold for now :\ (it's the black pcb prototype)
Make sure the diodes are are connected the correct way. I seem to remember there was a batch that was done with the diode silkscreen printed backwards. Does anyone remember the details of that? I remember others saying they had the same behavior and it had something to do with a mistake on the silkscreen and I think the fix was relatively easy (maybe time consuming though).
Anyone remember??? I am too lazy to find the post. :blank:
Every row and column on the GHpad is broken out to solder pads on the side of the PCB. If your expansion PCB had the column and rows broken out in the same manner, it should be trivial to wire them together and connect to a separate controller board, be it a Teensy or whatever.
Every row and column on the GHpad is broken out to solder pads on the side of the PCB. If your expansion PCB had the column and rows broken out in the same manner, it should be trivial to wire them together and connect to a separate controller board, be it a Teensy or whatever.
Got it. Thanks.
Is the reverse true? Can I wire my expansion PCBs to the GHpad controller? I can extend the rows by wiring to the GHpad row pads. Are there places where I could ADD two additional columns? Going from a 4x6 matrix to a 6x6 matrix?
- Ron | samwisekoi
I don't think any of the spare pins on the ATmega are broken out to pads on the PCB. :(
But don't quote me on that.
i am not having luck programming my "red scarf" GHPad from the group buy
i made a hex file in the easykeymap app and used flip to flash, flip driver is installed and it shows it erasing and programming sucessfully and validates but when i unplug and plug the keypad back into the computer it does not see it as a keyboard. no input is registered on any key
anyone have a hex file i could try, maybe it has to do with the easykeymap app
http://www.pabbos.com/38746408917.shtml
Quotehttp://www.pabbos.com/38746408917.shtml
there are " Black", "Aluminum Color" . No "red" Color now.