Lastpilot's Assembly Services [Not taking new orders]

[Lastpilot]

Oh snap! kmac 2! My favorite!  epzy is in for a treat!

ikr, KMAC's are timeless... :]

Here is a WASD v2 I am working on for Jester. Browns to 100g Yellow Gaterons, oh yes. And LED indicators replaced with sky blue <3 Getting the case off this thing is tough! Also going to be flush cutting the gaterons since they are PCB mount, so I look forward to seeing this board completed over the weekend. For now I've desoldered and removed the switches. :]

[jester_]

CANNOT WAIT

Thanks for doing what my hands are not steady enough for~

[Flyersfan1]

CANNOT WAIT

Thanks for doing what my hands are not steady enough for~

Your hands will be strong like bull after using those switches.

[jester_]

CANNOT WAIT

Thanks for doing what my hands are not steady enough for~

Your hands will be strong like bull after using those switches.

Its cool, I had my full size Filco switches swapped to MX Grey tactile and the 85g actuation still doesn't bother me, I continue to bottom them out. I swapped a 100g into one of those Gaterons before shipping them off and it felt GLORIOUS

[Lastpilot]

Spring swap + spring lube. Pretty much finished the rest of my oil! XD




Should be done with this board tonight <3

[justify]

Spring swap + spring lube. Pretty much finished the rest of my oil! XD

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Should be done with this board tonight <3

oh man, my lube arrived in the mail today, I just need paintbrushes and wire snippers for my stabs, and tweezers for my stickers! from your pictures though it seems not too bad :]

[Lastpilot]

oh man, my lube arrived in the mail today, I just need paintbrushes and wire snippers for my stabs, and tweezers for my stickers! from your pictures though it seems not too bad :]

Yeah I love my flushcutters, they are probably my most used non-iron tool. They cut through the gateron pcb legs like butter. And yeah snipping cherry stabs helps so much!

----

Sky Blue LED Mod


Board was sent out yesterday despite the crazy storms here in Louisiana lol. Didn't do "finished" pictures as it was way too late Sunday night! I'll leave those to Jester to post.

[Lastpilot]

Trying to do a simple switch swap on the TG3 turned out harder than expected. Bent LED legs are making things a nightmare. You can see the previous solderer's work on the SW8 key just trying to unbend those LED legs. Even just pulling the LED's out from the switches is hard lol. Should be able to finish this board tomorrow night and go out Wednesday.

[Evo_Spec]

Man that sucks, the G-key board on the K95 had bent legs too, those weren't fun.

[Lastpilot]

Man that sucks, the G-key board on the K95 had bent legs too, those weren't fun.

Yes, and I think I just found out why they are bent! In order to solder the LED's properly they have to bend them (effectively anchoring them to the PCB) so that the LED doesn't just fall out while the board is upside down.

I've spent the past 3 hours on this board clipping blue switches, straightening and inserting the LED wires, and getting 20% of the soldering done - again this delay is because of LEDs.

While upside down the LED's do not sit inside the housing and some even fall out. To solder these in, I have to solder one leg of the LED, let it cool, then push the led from underneath with one hand while heating the soldered leg with the other - thus pushing the LED through hot solder and letting it cool and harden with the LED in its proper position.

[Evo_Spec]

Yes, and I think I just found out why they are bent! In order to solder the LED's properly they have to bend them (effectively anchoring them to the PCB) so that the LED doesn't just fall out while the board is upside down.

While upside down the LED's do not sit inside the housing and some even fall out. To solder these in, I have to solder one leg of the LED, let it cool, then push the led from underneath with one hand while heating the soldered leg with the other - thus pushing the LED through hot solder and letting it cool and harden with the LED in its proper position.

Yeah that's exactly why they're bent.

My method was to put in the led's and then put tape on them to hold in the led's and then do what you did with soldering one leg but instead do the whole row and after that go through the row and heat/push the led's into the correct position. It's kind of unnecessary honestly since the LED's would work fine but i feel the pressure from the LED's may help give the board a more solid feel.

Nice work and pics btw!

[Lastpilot]

For those that have PM'ed me, I will sort out future orders as soon as I get back to the US on the 25th. I have informed everyone who has current orders so this should only be news to those that want to start new ones.

[Lastpilot]

All PM's have been replied to.

New progress spreadsheet and quote application form! Check the first page for links.

[VesperSAINT]

You and I should assemble a baby together, if you know what I mean

[sethk_]

You and I should assemble a baby together, if you know what I mean

I would pay to watch that assembly service ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

[Lastpilot]

You and I should assemble a baby together, if you know what I mean

I would pay to watch that assembly service ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

  )  Oh yeahhhhh? lololol

Actually thinking of doing videos soon. Might do a time lapse of the KMAC 2 <3

[Sent]

Get out of here, Vesp.  Last and I already have plans.  )

[VesperSAINT]

I would pay to watch that assembly service ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) 8==D

)  Oh yeahhhhh? lololol

Actually thinking of doing videos soon. Might do a time lapse of the KMAC 2 <3

Videos? I'm down for videos. Only thing that lasts longer than a diamond is a nice smexy video of baby assembling.

Get out of here, Vesp.  Last and I already have plans.  )

YO. AYYYY. Get in line. Get outta here. OR you can just join us


~~~


Sorry, K-babe. I'll stop thread crapping.

[Lastpilot]

Sent's inventory. :DDD




1. 22kbd
2. stabs and stickers from Ctrl Alt
3. LED's from Sprit (have yet to test color)
4. Magenta LED's from Ctrl Alt
5. 2x Lube set from TechKeys
6. 2x bags of Gateron Blacks, 1x bag Gateron white
7. 55g springs, RGB LED from Sprit
8. 100x Gateron switch tops
9. Pink switch stickers
10. Duck Viper
11. Duck Viper Pink SMD LED
12. 60g and 55g Sprit gold springs
13. Sprit gold stabs
14. Duck Viper screws/feet/diodes
15. more 55g Sprit gold springs


Bottom right of photo 2 is unopened LZ-SQ. <3

Only thing I think is missing is the black stab parts for the gold stab wires? Unless that comes with the LZ?

[Sent]

Okay...time to organize all this crap.  Finally. )

[Lurch]

Application submitted!

[Lastpilot]

I'll process the new orders later today 

[moogle]

[Lastpilot]

Spreadsheet updated, thanks guys.

[Lastpilot]

Sent's Kaliet board before soldering. Switching cherry blues to gateron whites .

[Lastpilot]

Placing LED's on the Kaliet. The cool thing about having a lightbox and gaterons is that you can see what's been soldered and what's left at a glance. :]

[KatzenKinder]

Placing LED's on the Kaliet. The cool thing about having a lightbox and gaterons is that you can see what's been soldered and what's left at a glance. :]

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Looking niiice~

[Sent]

Very excited to get this and the other two boards.  The hype!

[Lastpilot]

22kbd finished. Viper shots coming soon!

[Peddamann]

A W E S O M E  òÓ

[ApocalypseMaow]

so I hear you are taking hoffs backlog?

[HoffmanMyster]

so I hear you are taking hoffs backlog?

Correct.    I'm still finishing your Lightsaver though.

[Lastpilot]

Alright guys, sorry for the short hiatus (been out for a week ish). I'm back in action and will be updating the spreadsheet today and adding a new column for delivery date estimates.

<3

[romevi]

Not sure whether this is the right place to ask, but is it worth investing in my own lube and stickers if all I want is that? Or is it better to send it off to someone?

I plan on submitting a Lastpilot form for my first custom, but in the interim I plan on getting a KUL as my first MX board and wanted to know what the best method of having it lubed and stickered is if I have no experience.

[Lastpilot]

Not sure whether this is the right place to ask, but is it worth investing in my own lube and stickers if all I want is that? Or is it better to send it off to someone?

I plan on submitting a Lastpilot form for my first custom, but in the interim I plan on getting a KUL as my first MX board and wanted to know what the best method of having it lubed and stickered is if I have no experience.

Hi romevi!

I'm sorry I'm not sure I understand the first question. I guess I should make it more clear that I do not provide any materials for boards besides solder. My charges for lubing and stickering are there because of the extra labor.

As for your question about doing it yourself - I always encourage doing it yourself if you have the time and patience. At first, mistakes will happen and some keys may feel different than others (especially if you are lubing tactile keys), but its a learning process that can help you in the long run if you are the type to buy multiple custom keyboards in a year. Its a very satisfying journey if keyboards are important to you.

However, if you wanna take the bet that your board will be used for a long time and you won't need another one anytime soon (rarely happens) then outsourcing makes sense.

Or if you have more money than free time, then outsourcing is also the popular choice. :]

[romevi]

Not sure whether this is the right place to ask, but is it worth investing in my own lube and stickers if all I want is that? Or is it better to send it off to someone?

I plan on submitting a Lastpilot form for my first custom, but in the interim I plan on getting a KUL as my first MX board and wanted to know what the best method of having it lubed and stickered is if I have no experience.

Hi romevi!

I'm sorry I'm not sure I understand the first question. I guess I should make it more clear that I do not provide any materials for boards besides solder. My charges for lubing and stickering are there because of the extra labor.

As for your question about doing it yourself - I always encourage doing it yourself if you have the time and patience. At first, mistakes will happen and some keys may feel different than others (especially if you are lubing tactile keys), but its a learning process that can help you in the long run if you are the type to buy multiple custom keyboards in a year. Its a very satisfying journey if keyboards are important to you.

However, if you wanna take the bet that your board will be used for a long time and you won't need another one anytime soon (rarely happens) then outsourcing makes sense.

Or if you have more money than free time, then outsourcing is also the popular choice. :]

Thanks. I was wondering whether it was more cost effective to buy my own lube and stickers and do it myself, or buying a keyboard and sending it to have someone do it for me. I can see myself doing this on only a few boards, so I'm not sure what the investment costs will be.

[Lastpilot]

Hmm. It definitely depends on how much your time is worth.

Learning to lube + testing and correcting switches for the first time can easily be at least a week-long project if you are working or studying full-time. It really depends how detail-oriented you are or how consistent you want the final product to be.

For me lubing a board's worth of switches takes me a good 3-4 hour session, not including breaks. Each switch would take at least two to three minutes because of opening the switch, lubing the stem contact points, then sound and feel testing. That would average to 217.5 minutes + any breaks that I take for 87 keys. And I ALWAYS want to do all the switches in the same day to ensure consistency.

Stickering adds maybe 2-3 hours to that. One sticker  = 1 minute if first alignment works

You have to remove the sticker from the sheet (can be harder than it sounds because you are trying to avoid warping from pulling force - 10 to 20 seconds), align sticker to switch (10-15 seconds), then "smooth out" the sticker so that you can maximize the surface area that is being adhered to the plastic (10-20 seconds), reassemble switch (5-10 seconds), put down switch in sorted pile and pick up another (5 seconds)

And then if SIP sockets are being used that adds some time to get those to properly fit the slot (20-30 seconds).

Stickers can be 2 minutes if you dont get it aligned the first attempt (given that the sticker adhesive may no longer be intact or the sticker has been warped from pulling force).

With kind of a 50/50 chance of 1-min or 2-min outcomes, that would average to 130.5 minutes + any breaks that I take for 87 keys.

Hope that helps!

[Lastpilot]

Lubed 55g gateron blacks with purple stickers and clear covers. WIP.

[romevi]

Hmm. It definitely depends on how much your time is worth.

Learning to lube + testing and correcting switches for the first time can easily be at least a week-long project if you are working or studying full-time. It really depends how detail-oriented you are or how consistent you want the final product to be.

For me lubing a board's worth of switches takes me a good 3-4 hour session, not including breaks. Each switch would take at least two to three minutes because of opening the switch, lubing the stem contact points, then sound and feel testing. That would average to 217.5 minutes + any breaks that I take for 87 keys. And I ALWAYS want to do all the switches in the same day to ensure consistency.

Stickering adds maybe 2-3 hours to that. One sticker  = 1 minute if first alignment works

You have to remove the sticker from the sheet (can be harder than it sounds because you are trying to avoid warping from pulling force - 10 to 20 seconds), align sticker to switch (10-15 seconds), then "smooth out" the sticker so that you can maximize the surface area that is being adhered to the plastic (10-20 seconds), reassemble switch (5-10 seconds), put down switch in sorted pile and pick up another (5 seconds)

And then if SIP sockets are being used that adds some time to get those to properly fit the slot (20-30 seconds).

Stickers can be 2 minutes if you dont get it aligned the first attempt (given that the sticker adhesive may no longer be intact or the sticker has been warped from pulling force).

With kind of a 50/50 chance of 1-min or 2-min outcomes, that would average to 130.5 minutes + any breaks that I take for 87 keys.

Hope that helps!

Thanks, Lastpilot! It seems the Infinity Ergodox may go back in stock, so I may send that one your way.

[Lastpilot]

Unboxing an LZ-SQ!

[Sifo]

Unboxing an LZ-SQ!

Jealous you get to play with that

[Sent]

Hnnnnngggggg.  I want it right meow. )

[filphil]

Unboxing an LZ-SQ!

I record almost all my high dollar openings as well to make sure that everything is good.  It saved me once on a paypal dispute.  I assume you do the same?

[Lastpilot]

Soldering the Viper!

[Lastpilot]

I record almost all my high dollar openings as well to make sure that everything is good.  It saved me once on a paypal dispute.  I assume you do the same?

I actually did the video just for fun. But I definitely inspect items for damage before working on them - it's just that most of the time items are so well packaged that I don't really have to worry about it. If there was visible exterior box damage, then I would definitely record it for those just-in-case purposes.

Hnnnnngggggg.  I want it right meow. )

<3 Soon!

Jealous you get to play with that

How do you think I felt when you did one of the first Orion v1 builds?! XDD

[ghostjuggernaut]

Soldering the Viper!

More

http://youtu.be/yKLFuaVI0yU

What are you using as holders for the PCB?

[Lastpilot]

What are you using as holders for the PCB?

Two Hakko C1390C's. I saw Kaliet and GON using them so I knew I had to try them out. I love them so far, keeps things very tidy while being flexible with different mounting positions. Only downside is that it only holds things flat, but I never have found myself working at an angle anyway.

[ghostjuggernaut]

What are you using as holders for the PCB?

Two Hakko C1390C's. I saw Kaliet and GON using them so I knew I had to try them out. I love them so far, keeps things very tidy while being flexible with different mounting positions. Only downside is that it only holds things flat, but I never have found myself working at an angle anyway.

That's a good idea.  Thanks a lot.

[Lastpilot]

Viper finished <3

[njbair]

Awesome pics, but why do you strip your Exif data? I wanna see your setup.