Author Topic: The Living Soldering Thread  (Read 1854239 times)

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Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #350 on: Tue, 18 June 2013, 18:22:00 »
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.

I run like 650...

Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #351 on: Tue, 18 June 2013, 18:23:23 »
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.

I run like 650...

I would have figured that you used 850F for everything
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Offline CPTBadAss

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #352 on: Tue, 18 June 2013, 18:25:30 »
I was also running about 650 when I was soldering my Tofu101 over the weekend. I think it needs to be closer to 700 but I'm not sure.

Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #353 on: Tue, 18 June 2013, 18:25:56 »
I used to do everything on 5 on the weller WLC, now that I can control temps I use around 550F. It's a little bit hotter than alaricljs uses, but I find it a bit faster than if I'd use a lower temp.

I run like 650...

I would have figured that you used 850F for everything

You caught me, I just plug the iron directly into a 110v plug and let the metal glow.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #354 on: Tue, 18 June 2013, 18:30:43 »
You caught me, I just plug the iron directly into a 110v plug and let the metal glow.

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #355 on: Wed, 19 June 2013, 09:21:58 »
I still don't have a dedicated tip tinner, and I wonder if I can just use my solder line to tin the tip.  That way I wouldn't be mixing random compounds on the tip too.
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Offline alaricljs

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #356 on: Wed, 19 June 2013, 09:26:32 »
I've never had a tip tinner, hasn't bothered me any.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #357 on: Wed, 19 June 2013, 09:47:16 »
just use solder to tip the tip. tin tinner is just a little thing of solder paste (= ground up flux and solder)

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Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #358 on: Wed, 19 June 2013, 09:48:52 »
Cool--thanks.  Didn't seem worth $10 to get a dedicated tinner that was of a possibly different formulation than my solder anyway.
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Offline actionbastard

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #359 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 19:02:18 »
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Offline alaricljs

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Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #361 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 19:06:42 »
Check out this thread for more info!

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0
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Offline The_Ed

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #362 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 19:09:52 »
Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station.

I got mine when they were $129.
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Offline BlueByLiquid

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #363 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 20:02:32 »
I just got the FX888D. The price on amazon is pretty darn good. It is very solid and constant temp. it heats up really really fast and and just has a good feel to it. It also is pretty small which I find great.

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #364 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 20:23:23 »
Weller, Ersa, Hakko, Pace...

Offline actionbastard

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #365 on: Fri, 21 June 2013, 20:31:16 »
Ok, after researching a bit I went with the FX888D with some extra tips on the side.

Thanks everyone.
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Offline TD22057

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #366 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 14:10:06 »
How do you guys like the 888D?  I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places.  I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...

Offline YoungMichael88

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #367 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 14:39:21 »
How do you guys like the 888D?  I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places.  I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...
I just got my 888D last week. Never soldered before in my life and within an hour of practicing on an old telephone with through hole components I was confident enough to mod my poker. It works very well, heats up extremely fast and is a solid machine. My only complaint is the lack of a decent manual but MKAWA posted a link to one in the living soldering thread. I recommend this iron. The price is pretty great too.
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Offline BlueByLiquid

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #368 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 15:48:18 »
How do you guys like the 888D?  I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places.  I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...

I have used more expensive ones friends have had and I love the 888D. Doesn't mean I wouldn't get a more expensive one if I did specific things but the size of the 888 makes it easy to keep on your desk unlike bigger sones where you end up putting them up because they are pretty big.

@YoungMichael88, THe 888D couldn't be easier to use. It starts up to 750 and you can easily adjust it but if you are using leaded solder thats what you want 9-10. maybe if you are doing something with drastic temp changes consistently it might be better to have a dial but I don't see this as a concern for those buying the 888.


Offline YoungMichael88

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #369 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 16:00:51 »
How do you guys like the 888D?  I ended up grabbing the non-digital version (888) which I found for sale in a few places.  I thought the analog control might be easier to use than the digital...

I have used more expensive ones friends have had and I love the 888D. Doesn't mean I wouldn't get a more expensive one if I did specific things but the size of the 888 makes it easy to keep on your desk unlike bigger sones where you end up putting them up because they are pretty big.

@YoungMichael88, THe 888D couldn't be easier to use. It starts up to 750 and you can easily adjust it but if you are using leaded solder thats what you want 9-10. maybe if you are doing something with drastic temp changes consistently it might be better to have a dial but I don't see this as a concern for those buying the 888.
it's really not that hard to change the temperature either. Sure it's not as fast as turning a dial but you could change it to any temperature in about 7 seconds.
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Offline samwisekoi

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #370 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 16:17:53 »
So the 888 is nice and fancy, but the OP asked about decent. By which I think he means good, not fancy.

I think this standard is met by a Weller W60 with a couple of tips for medium to x-large work and a Weller 15W (red handled version) for delicate work.  And some good multi-core 60/40 solder (I like Ersin .050).  The PH60 is an excellent stand for the big iron.

With that pair of relatively inexpensive irons you can solder anything from 28g wire (tiny) up to 00 monster cable.  And the W60 will last decades.

I like to think of it as the Model F of soldering irons.  My W60 is certainly older than my Model F or any of my Model M keyboards.

Now if only I could get a Stomberg-Carlson VOIP phone for my desk...

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Offline BlueByLiquid

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #371 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 16:33:00 »
So the 888 is nice and fancy, but the OP asked about decent. By which I think he means good, not fancy.

I think this standard is met by a Weller W60 with a couple of tips for medium to x-large work and a Weller 15W (red handled version) for delicate work.  And some good multi-core 60/40 solder (I like Ersin .050).  The PH60 is an excellent stand for the big iron.

With that pair of relatively inexpensive irons you can solder anything from 28g wire (tiny) up to 00 monster cable.  And the W60 will last decades.

I like to think of it as the Model F of soldering irons.  My W60 is certainly older than my Model F or any of my Model M keyboards.

Now if only I could get a Stomberg-Carlson VOIP phone for my desk...

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Show Image


So are you saying the OP wanted something lower cost than the 888D or that the 888D is just fancy and not "good". going by the general price range of the OP links I assumed he/she was looking for something in the 70-100 range and the 888D is around 85-95. I think the w60 is about 75-80 but also doesn't come with a stand or anything to hold the wire brush, etc. While you can get those cheap I would think it would add up to as much as the 888D. The 888D is the only one I have used in the sub $100 range (other than really really cheap ones) and I really enjoy it so that's what I recommended I could be wrong. I am sure there are other good ones around that range but it seemsed like for $90 or less it was the best choice.

Other note, I would imagine the w60 is difficult to maintain a continuous temp because it is just a handheld heating unit but again I could be wrong and am not saying bad things about it it just doesn't seem like the best value IMO.

Offline TheSoulhunter

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #372 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 17:55:32 »
The Hakko 888 is a good choice imo, got the old analog version because I figured it's less prone to failure...
-> No LCD and additional control PCB -> Less parts that can break, plus it has been around for some time and proven.
Also got a bunch of chisel tips in different sizes and a second hand-piece in case the ceramic in the boxed one breaks some day.

Offline samwisekoi

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #373 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 18:09:29 »
Good points.  Currently the W60 is the W60P, which is temperature controlled.  And it is no longer either inexpensive or as simple as it once was.  My preference is is to minimize electronics to improve longevity, and it is from that perspective I made the alternative recommendation.

I like simple tools that work well.  I'd rather have a set of good screwdrivers than a multi-driver with interchangeable bits, for example.  So for me, having a #0, #1, and #2 Phillips head is the same as having a 60W and a 15W iron on my bench.  My Weller is at least 30 years old, and works as well as it did when I bought it.

Go into a metal shop and you will almost always find a piece of equipment that is older than anyone who works there.  And it won't have dials, chips, or closed-loop feedback systems.  But it will work better -- in the right hands -- than the newer models that are available now.

I just bought a 'new' Fluke DMM.  It is only 10 years old.  I hope it lasts as long as my Weller will!

In the meantime, I should try an 888 just to see.  But instead I am probably going to get a Hakko with a desoldering pump built in!  Mostly because there is so much desoldering in this hobby that I am getting tired of using my Soldapullit.

But I'm not going to get rid of that Soldapullit either.  It might last a couple of decades itself.

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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #374 on: Sat, 22 June 2013, 20:09:48 »
flukes don't die, sorry. if you wait long enough and enough buildings fall down and species go extinct, it might go slightly out of calibration, but i wouldn't be surprised if they throw in a free calibration every 20 years just for the heck of it. nikon pro cameras are also like this. if you bring them through enough war zones, the mount will eventually go out of spec (and of course all the rubber pieces will need to be replaced, but those are consumables), but only a tiny bit, and you have to have their test equipment to see the error. they also do flat rate repair pricing though, so you don't bother bringing it in for a CLA until you dropped it off a plane and cracked the body in half. then they charge you a hundred dollars and send you on your way (although they can take their sweet time if you don't bug them every few days)

Quote
I'd rather have a set of good screwdrivers than a multi-driver with interchangeable bits, for example.  So for me, having a #0, #1, and #2 Phillips head is the same as having a 60W and a 15W iron on my bench.
wiha for the drivers, and these are consumables by the way. i like having a steady supply of the standard wiha 000,00,0,1 small style drivers as well as a steady supply of the reversible and extendible drive-loc IV 1 + 2 bits and a reversible and extendible system 4 drive-loc 00 + 0

4mm and 1/4" bits are good, but imo only for power tools, and i like to go stainless with those because mild carbon steel is NOT TOOL STEEL and just strips itself and everything else out.

also, always have a JIC 0 and 1 driver on hand.

this reminds me. i just got a cheap (actually it was shockingly expensive) and ****ty chinese bit + handle 4mm set because i couldn't find any other Y0 and Y1 bits anywhere. if for some reason you want one of these without the Y0 and Y1 bits, it will probably go up on either free stuff or my very cheap stuff classifieds thread soon.

soldapullts are such simple machines it's not surprising that all they really need is a gasket and nozzle every once in a while, but soldering irons are these horribly nasty pieces of metal, ceramic, etc with mostly analog controls and constant insane heat cycling, so it's really a credit to hakko and weller's engineers that those two brands products never freaking die. same with fluke, frankly.
« Last Edit: Sat, 22 June 2013, 20:30:16 by mkawa »

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Offline dfj

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #375 on: Mon, 24 June 2013, 08:23:36 »
Sooth on the Nikon - I have a D (not a D-x or D-xx, the D). The addon light sensor needs to be rebuilt, but the body is nigh-indestructible (a hair of brass is showing here and there through the chrome and black layers).
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Offline kaiserreich

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #376 on: Mon, 24 June 2013, 10:41:07 »
How do you guys clean the soldapult?
It clogs up pretty quickly after desoldering a few keyboards.
I tried to clean as best as I can, but it seems that I no longer get that round piece of solder whenever I cock it in place.
Instead, it is just flakes of solder now.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #377 on: Mon, 24 June 2013, 11:00:38 »
Sooth on the Nikon - I have a D (not a D-x or D-xx, the D). The addon light sensor needs to be rebuilt, but the body is nigh-indestructible (a hair of brass is showing here and there through the chrome and black layers).
hundred bucks.
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Quote
How do you guys clean the soldapult?
It clogs up pretty quickly after desoldering a few keyboards.
I tried to clean as best as I can, but it seems that I no longer get that round piece of solder whenever I cock it in place.
Instead, it is just flakes of solder now.
you may have to disassemble it and clean the pump by hand. edsyn also sells replacement parts if your vacuum unit is unsalvageable for some reason (solder contaminating the gasket or something). i would personally start with a solvent to get rid of any rosin that might be causing the thing to stick, then pump it by hand a few times then disassemble and take a look.

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Offline Mysteric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #378 on: Tue, 25 June 2013, 20:17:14 »
I want to learn to solder so I can swap out LEDs and such like on my keyboard but I haven't done it before. Anyone recommend any sites / equipment to buy (United Kingdom) to start me off? (Soldering iron, solder, that sort of thing)

Any advice is appreciated!

Offline The_Beast

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #379 on: Tue, 25 June 2013, 22:32:58 »
Read this thread for lost of info on what equipment is good or not:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=42824.0

And practice on an old VCR. If you've never soldered before, I'm sure there are videos on youtube laying out the basics
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Offline PointyFox

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #380 on: Tue, 25 June 2013, 22:34:55 »
Wear eye protection and long pants; and never solder when you're tired.

Offline tjcaustin

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #381 on: Tue, 25 June 2013, 22:37:56 »
I think there are vids from whitefiredragon that are excellent, too

Also, that soldering comic is good.

Offline wcass

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #382 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 09:07:28 »
sometimes the cheap tools are good enough - particularly if you are new to it or don't plan on using it a lot and forever. i have had my current $5 multi-meter for a couple of years already. i will lend it out to even casual acquaintances and would laugh if it did not get returned or came back in pieces.

i came late to soldering (late 40's actually) so i started with a $5 iron to learn on. i recently upgraded to a GQ 5200 rework station (same as a 952D+) with extra heating elements and tips for $80. this to mount some mighty small SMDs on my DIY PCBs.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #383 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 09:59:17 »
wcass, try one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it's shockingly high quality, with a wide range of head fitment, stays where you put it, and uses some pretty clear optical plastic. for seven bucks including shipping i expected _much_ less. also, it clears one's prescription glasses, which can be a pain with other loupes.

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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #385 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:23:13 »
I've got the recommended desoldering iron from RadioShack so far.  Almost got my first switch out last night (but there's a skinny filament of solder left inside one of the holes, so waiting for other tools to arrive.

Ordered these from Amazon for my 2 Filco TKL projects :)


And of course my Prime ran out a couple days ago, so slow shipping...  But when it all gets here, I'll start desoldering in earnest!  Still need to get a tip tinner--probably at RadioShack on my way home from work today.  Do you think the stock Weller WLC100 tip is sufficiently narrow if I'm careful, or do I need to get a smaller one?

Thanks for everyone's tips in this thread!

Well, it looks like I will be following Photoelectric's footsteps and purchasing pretty much the same items. I will need some equipment for putting together an Ergodox, and after reading the thread, his choices seem to have quite a good cost:performance ratio. I think I will need to find something to help remove the smoke on top of this.

How often does one tin the tip while soldering? After x minutes? After y joints soldered?

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #386 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:28:36 »
Cool, yeah, I'd read the threads and read Amazon / google results for comments on my choices, and they seemed to be solid.  I like that you can buy smaller cuts of quality solder and braid from Amazon.  It should all arrive today, and I'll see how much solder is actually in those sections.  Might need to add one or two more cuts before my Prime membership runs out :)  I also ordered a Used Like New soldering iron (from Amazon Warehouse Deals) to save a few dollars.

From what I understand, you want to tin the tip every few minutes.   And a separate tip tinner is not required--just use your solder line.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #387 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:29:02 »
you will actually be able to see the oxidization form on the tip. a tinned tip without oxidization is shiny silver. as it oxidizes it will change color (usually to something nasty and brownish). just toss more solder and flux on. the flux will eat through the oxidization and the solder will form a thin coat over the surface. this coating stays pretty much constant thickness as long as you wipe the excess off or use it to make joints.

for the fumes, my diy fume extractor cookbook is here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40060.msg791820#msg791820

i'll append some of my newer LARGE PRIORITY BOX designs (ahahahahah).

but seriously, i'm actually going to make some proper ones now that i've found a good cheap source of carbon.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #388 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:40:51 »
Cool, yeah, I'd read the threads and read Amazon / google results for comments on my choices, and they seemed to be solid.  I like that you can buy smaller cuts of quality solder and braid from Amazon.  It should all arrive today, and I'll see how much solder is actually in those sections.  Might need to add one or two more cuts before my Prime membership runs out :)  I also ordered a Used Like New soldering iron (from Amazon Warehouse Deals) to save a few dollars.

From what I understand, you want to tin the tip every few minutes.   And a separate tip tinner is not required--just use your solder line.

Yes, I too went with the Amazon Warehouse choice :) I'd be interested in hearing how you like the tools when you get a chance to use them.

you will actually be able to see the oxidization form on the tip. a tinned tip without oxidization is shiny silver. as it oxidizes it will change color (usually to something nasty and brownish). just toss more solder and flux on. the flux will eat through the oxidization and the solder will form a thin coat over the surface. this coating stays pretty much constant thickness as long as you wipe the excess off or use it to make joints.

for the fumes, my diy fume extractor cookbook is here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=40060.msg791820#msg791820

i'll append some of my newer LARGE PRIORITY BOX designs (ahahahahah).

but seriously, i'm actually going to make some proper ones now that i've found a good cheap source of carbon.

Thanks, mkawa, I will take a look at this.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #389 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:43:35 »
I have an air purifier I inherited from a friend.  What do you think if I'll put it immediately next to my soldering area with intake vents facing the spot where I'll be soldering?  I'm hoping that will draw some of the fumes away in a different direction.  Then I'll have to have all the windows open.  Soldering outside or in a garage is not an option for me.
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Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #390 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:46:04 »
what kind of air purifier? the vast majority of "air purifiers" sold commercially are meant to extract money from hypochondriacs and not fumes or particulates from air

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Offline Parak

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #391 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 11:53:20 »
Most of the industrial type soldering fume filters that I've looked at are basically carbon prefilters with 99.97 or higher hepa after that. So if the air purifier is similar in that regard, then there shouldn't be too much of a difference aside from not having a hose that you can point directly at the soldering area. If you can solder right next to the intake of the purifier, that's fine too :P

Edit: Of course the industrial ones are built to higher quality standards, and are likely sealed better to prevent bypass. YMMV on the consumer grade stuff.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #392 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:03:13 »
It's probably a crappy one... Honeywell something with a washable filter.  I'll have to look.  I meant using it more for the purpose of drawing the solder fumes away from under my nose in a different direction, since it's pretty good at fanning air.  Then going for the best air circulation in a room with open windows.
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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #393 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:33:17 »
I've got the recommended desoldering iron from RadioShack so far.  Almost got my first switch out last night (but there's a skinny filament of solder left inside one of the holes, so waiting for other tools to arrive.

Ordered these from Amazon for my 2 Filco TKL projects :)


And of course my Prime ran out a couple days ago, so slow shipping...  But when it all gets here, I'll start desoldering in earnest!  Still need to get a tip tinner--probably at RadioShack on my way home from work today.  Do you think the stock Weller WLC100 tip is sufficiently narrow if I'm careful, or do I need to get a smaller one?

Thanks for everyone's tips in this thread!

I just noticed the wick you chose has flux in it. That means the board would need to be cleaned after using it, correct? Would something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-400-NS-Series-Desoldering/dp/B00424MWHO/ref=pd_luc_sim_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

be a better option? Or do wicks with flux perform better?

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #394 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:34:18 »
the industrial SOLDER FUME EXTRACTOR units are largely made to extract money from factories and labs that need to get ISO certified. they do the job, because if they didn't you couldn't get certification, but they're usually overkill and SO SO EXPENSIVE

filtration 101 (abbrev):

self-contained filtering of gases and liquids consist of exactly two components. 1) a pump. 2) a filter. it is exactly that simple. pumps are pumps. in gases we typically use axial fans or centrifugal blowers/turbines. in liquids, we do exactly the same thing but with more torque :)). filters come in exactly two varieties: chemical and mechanical.

an example of a mechanical filter is a paper HEPA filter. HEPA N is a standard that says that a filter media (the paper), when put in some exact laboratory situation with a blower, will act as a particle diameter low pass filter with efficiency N. that is, at least N percent of the low-diameter particles will stop at the filter, the rest can go through. this is measured over some period of time in an airtight chamber, with a specification blower, i believe, but feel free to correct me on that.

hence, mechanical filters physical block particulates above a certain effective diameter with a certain efficiency.

note that there is no standardized testing committee that certifies hepa filters THAT I KNOW OF. i imagine there is some authorized set of ISO testers. i don't really know and don't own a factory so i don't care.

a chemical filter is a medium which _neutralizes_ airborne chemical compounds via some kind of reaction (hereafter rx). the rx is open, the bandwidth of compounds is open, and the meaning of neutralize is open. i am not familiar with any standards that apply to this action.

however, typically, the kinds of things that people worry about (that are bad for one's lungs to breathe) are organic compounds, because our lungs aren't very good at dealing with those for reasons i don't particularly care to understand (probably because we're made of carbon so they stick to our little oxygen absorber thingamajigs). by definition, an organic compound which can be vaporized and become airborne is called a volatile organic compound (VOC). recall that organic compounds are all compounds that contain the element carbon. hence, what we are worried about is airborne contaminants which have carbon somewhere in their chemical construction. hence, we've come up with a fantastic way to neutralize them. we produce more carbon, negatively charge it, and give it lots of surface area, and then pass the air over it. ta-da! some poor charcoal has taken the blow and had to become attached to this nasty compound instead of our lungs. NEUTRALIZED *****. there is a standard for this, because it's actually incredibly effective, and there are tons of organic compounds which are very nasty carcinogens. also lung cancer ****ing sucks, it grows quickly and kills you in the most painful possible way.

another type of chemical filter is a silver mesh. for reasons i can't remember at all, silver does nasty things to cell walls, so if you're a small enough airborn micro-organism and your cell wall is of a garden variety (tuberculosis and many other microorgs have weird hardened cell membranes), contact with the silver might kill you. again, no standardized testing really.

SOLDER FUMES:

are all fumes from the flux burning. the metal in the solder is very heavy and we don't solder at high enough temperatures to vaporize it (like 900K). rosin flux burns to a remarkably harmless compound which i can't remember at all, but is picked up most effectively by a chemical filter. hence, i'm going out now to buy 40lbs of ionized charcoal pellets. BYE EVERYONE!

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline Photoelectric

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #395 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:34:46 »
I just noticed the wick you chose has flux in it. That means the board would need to be cleaned after using it, correct? Would something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-400-NS-Series-Desoldering/dp/B00424MWHO/ref=pd_luc_sim_01_03_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1

be a better option? Or do wicks with flux perform better?

It will get flux onto it from the solder anyway.  Cleaning is not critical--just for neatness sake.  Flux will not harm anything.  I got the braid with flux to soak up solder better, so you don't have to add flux.
« Last Edit: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:36:20 by Photoelectric »
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Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #396 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 12:42:07 »
I was watching WhiteFireDragon's ergodox assembly on YouTube. I noticed that he used some solder paste at one point. Does anyone recommend or recommend against using this?

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #397 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:02:31 »
1) ROSIN flux is acidic and can eat away at things if you don't clean it. hence the invention of no-clean flux, which is inert.

2) flux is a dialectric. if you have uncleaned flux inside of a lot of joints then the joints can carry non-trivial amounts of capacitance, which can **** with your circuit. ideally you should actually reflow if this is the case, but cleaning the flux turns those into easier to see air gaps, so you KNOW you need to reflow

3) solder paste is just ground up solder and flux. it has a shelf life, because flux has a shelf life iirc. it's useful in situations where you want to apply flux and solder to only one end of very small joints, ie some smt work. otherwise, it doesn't tend to be very helpful.

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.

Offline grips

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #398 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:20:25 »
1) ROSIN flux is acidic and can eat away at things if you don't clean it. hence the invention of no-clean flux, which is inert.

2) flux is a dialectric. if you have uncleaned flux inside of a lot of joints then the joints can carry non-trivial amounts of capacitance, which can **** with your circuit. ideally you should actually reflow if this is the case, but cleaning the flux turns those into easier to see air gaps, so you KNOW you need to reflow

3) solder paste is just ground up solder and flux. it has a shelf life, because flux has a shelf life iirc. it's useful in situations where you want to apply flux and solder to only one end of very small joints, ie some smt work. otherwise, it doesn't tend to be very helpful.

Thanks. In that light, maybe I will consider getting a desoldering pump instead of a wick.

Offline mkawa

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Re: The Living Soldering Thread
« Reply #399 on: Wed, 26 June 2013, 13:24:50 »
nice to have both if you don't have a dedicated electromechanical unit like the hakko 808. i don't desolder a lot so i'm good with just an edsyn soldapullt classic and a couple widths of rosin wick, but ymmv. easy to clean solder off. get ****-grade iso alcohol from the drug store. costs a buck. find an old toothbrush - free. scrub board with toothbrush and alcohol. done

to all the brilliant friends who have left us, and all the students who climb on their shoulders.