[GB] BananaSplit60 Orders Shipping Out 7/27! Shipping 100% Complete

[evangs]

Any idea when v2 will come out?

launching in October

[lac29]

Any idea when v2 will come out?

launching in October

Damn, that's exciting. You're so on top of things.

[8megabit]

why would you want to generate the hex file using the output of the configurator but not have the configurator generate the hex? if you want to build the firmware locally you can checkout the tmk repo on my github (evangs). There is also a QMK port of the firmware as well.

Haha, yeah I can see why it seems a bit weird but this is the process leading up to the question:

1. Finish the board, make some quick layout in the online configurator and flash it just to try it out.

2. Want to make some changes to the layout, realize I have to input everything again from scratch since I cannot load the current config from the hexfile I already have.

3. Realize I can actually load the config from the text format.

4. Save the text format locally so I don't have to start from scratch when making changes.

5. Realize it would be sweet to not take the detour to online configurator to create the hexfile.

So would the easiest way then be to use the tmk repo? Is that what the online conf is using on the backend?

Thanks!

yes, it's using my TMK fork on the backend which also contains configurations for all of my keyboards including banana split. you could download it and then setup your layout there and then tweak and rebuild as you need.

Ok, great! I will look into that then. 

[Dan_Boulet]

Hope someone can help answer a noob question: I’m thinking of putting Kailh BOX switches in my Banana Split, but the switches are only compatible with SMD LEDs. Could I install small through-hole LEDs right up against the PCB, so that they fit underneath the switch? Any reason that it would be a bad idea on this board?

[Cotay]

Hope someone can help answer a noob question: I’m thinking of putting Kailh BOX switches in my Banana Split, but the switches are only compatible with SMD LEDs. Could I install small through-hole LEDs right up against the PCB, so that they fit underneath the switch? Any reason that it would be a bad idea on this board?

The Box switches are not "only" compatible with SMD leds. It is true that there is no way to insert an LED through the switch, but you can solder a 1.8mm or 2x3x4mm, LEDs directly to the PCB and install the Box switch over it. Personally I've used 2x3x4 LEDs in this manner with Gateron SMD switches and Invyr Pandas. I'll be doing the same thing with Box switches on a Red Scarf III that I have never completed.

[ctrl]

Hope someone can help answer a noob question: I’m thinking of putting Kailh BOX switches in my Banana Split, but the switches are only compatible with SMD LEDs. Could I install small through-hole LEDs right up against the PCB, so that they fit underneath the switch? Any reason that it would be a bad idea on this board?

The Box switches are not "only" compatible with SMD leds. It is true that there is no way to insert an LED through the switch, but you can solder a 1.8mm or 2x3x4mm, LEDs directly to the PCB and install the Box switch over it. Personally I've used 2x3x4 LEDs in this manner with Gateron SMD switches and Invyr Pandas. I'll be doing the same thing with Box switches on a Red Scarf III that I have never completed.

I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60.

[kmba]

What changes are in store for v2? Maybe I missed it

[Arhipio]

What changes are in store for v2? Maybe I missed it

We haven't announced anything concrete yet. Stay tuned we'll make a large announcement when we're ready.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Cotay]

I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60.

I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.

Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:



Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:



Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.

[ctrl]

I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60.

I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.

Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:

(Attachment Link)

Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself.

So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).

Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.

[Cotay]

I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60.

I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.

Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:

(Attachment Link)

Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself.

So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).

Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.

There is no issue with alignment. In fact, the Box switch makes this a bit easier since it appears the cavity was designed specifically to do this with 2x3x4 LEDs. It's is actually centered on the switch much better than other SMD switches. I've mocked it up for you in the picture below. When doing this, install all LEDs and switches to your Plate and PCB. When you turn the board upside down to solder, your LEDs will fall a bit further into the switch housing and allow them to diffuse light even better. Some people suggest bending the LED legs and I do that when installing them from the standard exterior top position. However, when installing them under SMD switch like this, I don't bend the legs and make sure I wiggle them as far as they will go into the switch. Straight legs also let you know you've got the LED vertical in the switch. The Box switch's cavity actually cradles the 2x3x4 LED much better than a Gateron SMD or standard Kailh or Outemu SMD switch. If you are looking for LEDs, I'd recommend Mehkee since he is active here and just ran a GB for them, but he has them available in a wide selection of colors: https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/leds-2x3x4mm-and-1-8mm-1?variant=45263792655

[Arhipio]

I wanted to address a couple things regarding this round. Firstly I can't say this enough but thank you all for your amazing support. Not only have you made this round extremely successful but you guys have been providing us with critical information that we will use to make round 2 even better. Secondly there has been a small issue with the C3 capacitor interfering with case placement, I personally have not encountered this issue, but I would still like to address it. Please carefully place your pcb into the case if you feel like it's not properly aligning carefully move it around until it slots in.Thirdly we have been getting sent pictures of plates that seem to be warped, I think the root of the problem lies with how I designed the bottom right row hole and the two side screw holes. Although the plates are rigid these holes can caused warping issues during the finishing process.

If a replacement is needed please contact evan at the thevankeyboards@gmail.com we will be more than happy to accommodate you, we want everyone to have a positive experience with this group buy

This leads me to the general fixes we will be doing with round 2, we still have yet to announce features. Stayed tuned for those

PCB:

-Fix smd issue near mounting points.
-Shorten side lengths for looser case tolerances.


Plate:

-Fix warping issues by removing the side gaps on the side screw holes.
-Potentially add stabilizing bars on the bottom right switch row hole.



We have so much planned for round 2 and we are planning to announce it as one big update. Round 2 will be released at the end of October.

[ctrl]

I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60.

I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.

Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:

(Attachment Link)

Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:

(Attachment Link)

Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself.

So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).

Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.

There is no issue with alignment. In fact, the Box switch makes this a bit easier since it appears the cavity was designed specifically to do this with 2x3x4 LEDs. It's is actually centered on the switch much better than other SMD switches. I've mocked it up for you in the picture below. When doing this, install all LEDs and switches to your Plate and PCB. When you turn the board upside down to solder, your LEDs will fall a bit further into the switch housing and allow them to diffuse light even better. Some people suggest bending the LED legs and I do that when installing them from the standard exterior top position. However, when installing them under SMD switch like this, I don't bend the legs and make sure I wiggle them as far as they will go into the switch. Straight legs also let you know you've got the LED vertical in the switch. The Box switch's cavity actually cradles the 2x3x4 LED much better than a Gateron SMD or standard Kailh or Outemu SMD switch. If you are looking for LEDs, I'd recommend Mehkee since he is active here and just ran a GB for them, but he has them available in a wide selection of colors: https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/leds-2x3x4mm-and-1-8mm-1?variant=45263792655

(Attachment Link)

Thank you! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to find! I think I'll attempt to do just what you described with my first build. Especially appreciate details like how to let the 2x3x4 LEDs "fall" into the switch to lodge them in better place before soldering. Very helpful!

I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.

[ctrl]

I wanted to address a couple things regarding this round. Firstly I can't say this enough but thank you all for your amazing support. Not only have you made this round extremely successful but you guys have been providing us with critical information that we will use to make round 2 even better. Secondly there has been a small issue with the C3 capacitor interfering with case placement, I personally have not encountered this issue, but I would still like to address it. Please carefully place your pcb into the case if you feel like it's not properly aligning carefully move it around until it slots in.Thirdly we have been getting sent pictures of plates that seem to be warped, I think the root of the problem lies with how I designed the bottom right row hole and the two side screw holes. Although the plates are rigid these holes can caused warping issues during the finishing process.

If a replacement is needed please contact evan at the thevankeyboards@gmail.com we will be more than happy to accommodate you, we want everyone to have a positive experience with this group buy

This leads me to the general fixes we will be doing with round 2, we still have yet to announce features. Stayed tuned for those

PCB:

-Fix smd issue near mounting points.
-Shorten side lengths for looser case tolerances.


Plate:

-Fix warping issues by removing the side gaps on the side screw holes.
-Potentially add stabilizing bars on the bottom right switch row hole.



We have so much planned for round 2 and we are planning to announce it as one big update. Round 2 will be released at the end of October.

Stoked!

[Cotay]

I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.

Well I guess we are technically mounting the 2x3x4 LEDs as a form of SMD that isn't really going "through" the switch.  

[ctrl]

I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.

Well I guess we are technically mounting the 2x3x4 LEDs as a form of SMD that isn't really going "through" the switch.

Touché.

[ojrask]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

[Arhipio]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

Some of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.

[evangs]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.

there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up

[ojrask]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.

there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up

I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries.

[Arhipio]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.

there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up

I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries.

The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.

Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you

[evangs]

Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work.

A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.

there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up

I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries.

The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.

Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you

correct, I think they were damaged before they even made it to me. I do not believe any plates were damaged during transit from me to everyone who ordered.

[tom_0334]

Hi,

I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed."  I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.

I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.

Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.

[evangs]

Hi,

I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed."  I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.

I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.

Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.

It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603

[tom_0334]

I have no experience with any of this so i'm just guessing, but could i use this:
https://www.condensators.nl/p/elektrolytische-condensator-100-v-1-f?pid=3901701

?

It seems easier to solder on because of the pins, and it would arrive tomorrow. I'm thinking i could solder it on without desoldering the entire thing.

[menuhin]

Hi,

I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed."  I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.

I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.

Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.

It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603

It seems like it can be a good idea to put the related info in the Top post's FAQ section or troubleshooting section.
I've not received my PCB yet, but am already a bit worried about how I should handle mine probably so that similar errors won't happen to me.

[Eturior]

Hey, I just finished building my Banana Split, but I ran into an issue with the configurator. How do I add nordic characters like ÖÄÅ?

[Arhipio]

Hi,

I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed."  I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.

I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.

Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.

It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603

It seems like it can be a good idea to put the related info in the Top post's FAQ section or troubleshooting section.
I've not received my PCB yet, but am already a bit worried about how I should handle mine probably so that similar errors won't happen to me.

Just updated it

[vim_commando]

I finally snuck some time in to get my build going 

Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.



So far I'm really digging the split space design. 

[evangs]

I finally snuck some time in to get my build going 

Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.

(Attachment Link)

So far I'm really digging the split space design. 

That looks insane, I love it!

this is my BananaSplit

[tom_0334]

So, a little update on my troubles....

I have been trying to get it to work for quite a while now. I managed to solder the capacitor on, but  it still didn't work. I tried removing some solder as there was a bit much but then the cap fell of and i havent gotten it on correctly since. There's just a little dot of metal left to solder onto and its quite tiny so it pretty hard to do.

I will try again tonight.  If anyone has suggestions i'm all ears!

[evangs]

So, a little update on my troubles....

I have been trying to get it to work for quite a while now. I managed to solder the capacitor on, but  it still didn't work. I tried removing some solder as there was a bit much but then the cap fell of and i havent gotten it on correctly since. There's just a little dot of metal left to solder onto and its quite tiny so it pretty hard to do.

I will try again tonight.  If anyone has suggestions i'm all ears!

email me and I'll get a new pcb sent out. thevankeyboards@gmail.com

[tom_0334]

Thanks man. You're the best. I will try again one more time and if i fail i will send you an email tonight.

[evangs]

Thanks man. You're the best. I will try again one more time and if i fail i will send you an email tonight.

sounds great

[kitchenace13]

Here is my setup (65g zealios, zealencios, GMK Hydro, 60% wooden case). Still very much getting used to it and playing with the programming:



A few remarks:

• Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace.  I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
   maybe PgUp/PgDn
• Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in.  Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in.  Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on?  Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
• I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side.  No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.

[evangs]

Here is my setup (65g zealios, zealencios, GMK Hydro, 60% wooden case). Still very much getting used to it and playing with the programming:

Show Image

A few remarks:

• Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace.  I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
   maybe PgUp/PgDn
• Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in.  Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in.  Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on?  Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
• I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side.  No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.

for the control key issue, double check the soldering for that key and then also reset the eeprom by holding backspace and space while plugging in the keyboard.  I'd probably do the eeprom clear first since that is easier to do and if it resolves the issue then you're good to go.

[Arhipio]

I finally snuck some time in to get my build going 

Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.

(Attachment Link)

So far I'm really digging the split space design. 

That looks awesome, brings me so much joy seeing everyone's unique builds

[tom_0334]

Thanks man. You're the best. I will try again one more time and if i fail i will send you an email tonight.

sounds great

Just tried again, got it on okayish i think. Didn't work unfortunately. I sent you an email for a new PCB hopefully. Thanks Evangs

Let this be a lesson for the other guys: be extra careful when positioning your pcb in the case. Enjoy your boards!

[flintlock]

How much would it be if I only order the plate?

And how much is the shipping to CA?

[kmba]

Here is my setup (65g zealios, zealencios, GMK Hydro, 60% wooden case). Still very much getting used to it and playing with the programming:

Show Image

A few remarks:

• Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace.  I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
   maybe PgUp/PgDn
• Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in.  Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in.  Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on?  Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
• I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side.  No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.

split left shift is a great idea to free up caps for the split space  :thumb:

[evangs]

How much would it be if I only order the plate?

And how much is the shipping to CA?

$24 + $4 for shipping = $28 send me an email. thevankeyboards@gmail.com

[vim_commando]

Ok, here we go, I finally got some good pictures of the... functional board.





I'm still struggling to get a good overview shot.

I don't say "complete" because now I've got some mods in mind.

Anyone have recommendations for LED suppliers? I never planned on lighting this board past maybe an underglow, but now it just seems like its a necessity to complete the look.

[evangs]

Ok, here we go, I finally got some good pictures of the... functional board.

(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I'm still struggling to get a good overview shot.

I don't say "complete" because now I've got some mods in mind.

Anyone have recommendations for LED suppliers? I never planned on lighting this board past maybe an underglow, but now it just seems like its a necessity to complete the look.

oh my, that is quite an incredible build. I really like what you've done here

[ojrask]

The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.

Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you

Sorry, the board is all assembled now and I did not take any pictures in the heat of assembling.

I drew a _very_ exaggerated sketch of how the bend was in my plate:



The middle was too narrow (1-2mm) to fit a switch straight in. To correct that I inserted a switch to the unbent left edge and slided it around in the plate hole until the bend was gone.

[menuhin]

Questions:

The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.

The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.

A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.

Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.

[evangs]

Questions:

The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.

The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.

A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.

Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.

the PCBs aren't defective, they come blank so you will need to program it first if you want to test the inputs. you can use QMK right away no need to do TMK.  be careful putting the pcb into the case. there is a capacitor close to one of the mounts and if you slide it around you can knock it off, this is the issue people have had. on a side note some things aren't simple to do in regards to shipping. exceptions take a lot of time and doing said exceptions for every international order would add an incredible amount of time to shipping as well as breaking the law. It is not my fault that your country charges high import taxes.

[menuhin]

Questions:

The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.

The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.

A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.

Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.

the PCBs aren't defective, they come blank so you will need to program it first if you want to test the inputs. you can use QMK right away no need to do TMK.  be careful putting the pcb into the case. there is a capacitor close to one of the mounts and if you slide it around you can knock it off, this is the issue people have had. on a side note some things aren't simple to do in regards to shipping. exceptions take a lot of time and doing said exceptions for every international order would add an incredible amount of time to shipping as well as breaking the law. It is not my fault that your country charges high import taxes.

Thanks for the reply and understood.

Next time when the sale is of high volume, would be nicer if you remind us that you may not be able to follow through for individual shipping instructions. For me it's not only saving a bit of money - I lost packages due to mistakes made by the custom, and the most painful is, those were lost during its return shipment due to their man-made errors and you finally knew the package was gone only after 2+ months of following it.

[menuhin]

There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.

The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.


Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.

[Arhipio]

There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.

The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.

Show Image

Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.

Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.

I can take a look and double check once I get home.

[menuhin]

There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.

The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.

Show Image

Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.

Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.

I can take a look and double check once I get home.

Of course I tried physically trying to put the screws in, and I was not fantasizing both screws on both sides will fit, I was just trying one side, and I could not even put in the tip of the screw. The procedure I am using was that I put in the center screw first and then the top left.
These Poker cases are everywhere and I believe they somewhat set the standard for 60%.

At this point I am ready to drill the PCB to open it up a little to fit - but such a beautifully decorated PCB... I really wish the process be a little smoother.