Author Topic: Dox KB, Build your own! (Read 205130 times)

ishtob · « **Reply #100 on:** Thu, 27 October 2011, 23:34:46 »

where would that key be in this layout? last time i checked the DOX layout doesn't have the sys req key

TheProfosist · « **Reply #101 on:** Fri, 28 October 2011, 00:33:41 »

Quote from: ishtob;440891

where would that key be in this layout? last time i checked the DOX layout doesn't have the sys req key

I know that my layout does have it but what is currently used to go to the second layer? hasu said that he used holding down the semi colon as the modifier could hat be chanded to sys rq sice its not even on the board?

ishtob · « **Reply #102 on:** Fri, 28 October 2011, 00:44:19 »

its still a momentary switch using semicolon...He's only using that because he ran out of non-regular keys to assign to function groups. There are 7 FN defined in his codes. I'm using FN2 and FN7 right now for left and right FN, but right now they will both switch the keyboard to layer 2

TheProfosist · « **Reply #103 on:** Fri, 28 October 2011, 00:47:25 »

Quote from: ishtob;440912

its still a momentary switch using semicolon...He's only using that because he ran out of non-regular keys to assign to function groups. There are 7 FN defined in his codes. I'm using FN2 and FN7 right now for left and right FN, but right now they will both switch the keyboard to layer 2

sounds good!

Index · « **Reply #104 on:** Sat, 29 October 2011, 00:11:26 »

Quote from: PrinsValium;439858

Firefighting, in a quite town... Did you check if the Teensy fits there? I have no idea or possibility to check at the moment. Seems like it could get tight =P

11.1"×3.6" double sided board with solder masks on both sides and silkscreen only on one side = $56 per board @ 2 boards (RoHS compliant = $65). Plus shipping. pcbwing.com

Edit: A new version with the ATmega32U4 mounted directly on the keyboard PCB, including the same surrounding components as on the Teensy. I only autorouted it. It probably wouldn't hurt to make some of the tracks wider. The crystal also has the wrong footprint, but it is only a quick prototype.

Hey Prins, this is exactly what I needed for my keyboard project (the files you attached). I decided to switch from a Tenkeyless to a 60% due to the new sexy aluminum poker cases from imsto's group buy. All I need to do is just move the usb port over a bit so it can fit through the usb hole on the aluminum case. I also need to put some dipswitches on the back of the pcb. I was wondering if I could use it.

EDIT1: I also need to put in some holes for the case screws. Also, need to figure out the dip switch settings.

EDIT2: Actually, Prins I was wondering if you could fix up the pcb. In exchange I will code the custom firmware since I know alot about embedded programming, and worked with the atmega series before (if you guys still need a programmer).

TheProfosist · « **Reply #105 on:** Sat, 29 October 2011, 06:26:44 »

once I know that the PCB is working I think that I might post something in the group buy section.

ishtob · « **Reply #106 on:** Sat, 29 October 2011, 14:49:16 »

Quote from: Index;441624

Hey Prins, this is exactly what I needed for my keyboard project (the files you attached). I decided to switch from a Tenkeyless to a 60% due to the new sexy aluminum poker cases from imsto's group buy. All I need to do is just move the usb port over a bit so it can fit through the usb hole on the aluminum case. I also need to put some dipswitches on the back of the pcb. I was wondering if I could use it.

EDIT1: I also need to put in some holes for the case screws. Also, need to figure out the dip switch settings.

EDIT2: Actually, Prins I was wondering if you could fix up the pcb. In exchange I will code the custom firmware since I know alot about embedded programming, and worked with the atmega series before (if you guys still need a programmer).

index, check out the holes i put on my layout... i measured it to my spare poker keyboard... i'll let you know if they are in the correct place on tuesday when the PCB gets here.

so yea, take a look

AvenZerg · « **Reply #107 on:** Sat, 29 October 2011, 16:37:00 »

how much did it cost you in total to create those keyboards? (This might have been asked and answered already but i couldn't be bothered to scroll through all of the pages)

TheProfosist · « **Reply #108 on:** Sun, 30 October 2011, 07:05:22 »

Quote from: AvenZerg;441935

how much did it cost you in total to create those keyboards? (This might have been asked and answered already but i couldn't be bothered to scroll through all of the pages)

The cost for the original idea is in the OP. We have just started our build pcb quote has been $56 per @ 2 boards but I have no clue what price ishtob got his at.

ishtob · « **Reply #109 on:** Sun, 30 October 2011, 15:19:50 »

Quote from: TheProfosist;442179

The cost for the original idea is in the OP. We have just started our build pcb quote has been $56 per @ 2 boards but I have no clue what price ishtob got his at.

it was $56 a board with min of 2 and $10 shipping

ishtob · « **Reply #110 on:** Wed, 02 November 2011, 09:54:39 »

pcb board came in, rest of the components should be here tomorrow. I wont be able to assemble this till next week after my midterms, quizzes and papers are done.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #111 on:** Wed, 02 November 2011, 10:08:35 »

Sounds good, take your time and dont get behind.

ishtob · « **Reply #112 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 02:44:44 »

DOX: how come the isolated esc on the upper left is not working on my test board, I have the firmware setup the same as yours

ishtob · « **Reply #113 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 09:22:20 »

never mind, found i set the # of column wrong

ishtob · « **Reply #114 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 13:04:46 »

aite, finished the prototype, I'm still working on the layout where it would be a drop in for poker cases... the current one requires the case to be modified (drilled)
here's some pictures:

The screw holes were all wrong

so i had to drill my own, going to be updating the board with the correct locations.
still working on the other layout... there was 1 trace going to the wrong pin on teensy, and it's been corrected on the new layout im working on.

I might also just flip all the switch 180degrees and add holes and wire up an option for people who want LED lit keys

Dox · « **Reply #115 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 13:15:16 »

Very nice! I'm happy to see that this project has been usefull to someone else!

TheProfosist · « **Reply #116 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 14:25:04 »

yes please add the Led option. would you add trace to the pcb for the leds?

o and thanks greatly for testing this out beforehand.

ishtob · « **Reply #117 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:27:00 »

Im not too sure on how to wire LED, and no idea where to source the 3mm LEDs

so if someone can find a tutorial for me that would be awesome

I was thinking of using the switchs below the poker board (the DIN switchs?) and have that be the lighting options... like WASD only or the full backlit

alaricljs · « **Reply #118 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:31:36 »

There's a bazillion 3mm LEDs on ebay.

braaaiiins · « **Reply #119 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:38:46 »

This is awesome. I've been lurking this thread for awhile. I'm curious, how did you guys get a 1.75 right shift key cap that fit that row.

bpiphany · « **Reply #120 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:45:58 »

Any electronics supplier should have a bunch of them. Standard 3mm LEDs are the T1 package.

N8N · « **Reply #121 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:46:44 »

It looks like the same size as a space saver Cherry board, but I don't have one handy to look at because the location of the arrow keys messed me up when I tried one... WASD could make you whatever you want though

Dox · « **Reply #122 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:47:50 »

Personally, I ordered some blank keycaps from SP but the right shift on compact cherry keyboards are 1.75

braaaiiins · « **Reply #123 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 15:55:41 »

Thanks for that info. The layout you two have chosen is perfect. That right shift mod with that extra key is exactly what I would have changed on the KBC Poker. That and the ability to program every layer.... -drool-. Eventually, I hope to be able to replicate what you've done here.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #124 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 18:14:11 »

Quote from: Dox;445757

Personally, I ordered some blank keycaps from SP but the right shift on compact cherry keyboards are 1.75

how much were the key caps from SP and would it be possible to get with lettering? Im guessing that would be more. I would go through WASD but that right shift...

ishtob · « **Reply #125 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 18:20:17 »

I have an old g80 compact POS keyboad that had the shortened sift key

Dox · « **Reply #126 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 18:20:42 »

I think that they had the 1.75 right shift in stock in that color. But I had to get some non stock blanks that cost me 20$ each. I don't know anything about lettering but for single keycaps like that it would probably be costly.

TheProfosist · « **Reply #127 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 18:22:20 »

Quote from: Dox;445865

I think that they had the 1.75 right shift in stock in that color. But I had to get some non stock blanks that cost me 20$ each. I don't know anything about lettering but for single keycaps like that it would probably be costly.

I wouldnt mind just the right shift not having lettering I wonder if they could match WASD's colors

N8N · « **Reply #128 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 19:12:07 »

I have a Noppoo Choc Pro as well. It's got a few little quirks but is otherwise almost identical in appearance and feel to a Filco. Basically, they make the keyboard NKRO over USB which is a feature that nobody else has, but I don't know if anyone has got it to work with a Mac yet, and the Caps Lock LED doesn't work under Linux (I assume both are related to the NKRO over USB. The Linux thing I think is really a failing of at least Ubuntu/Debian and maybe other Linux distros as well.) Other than that it's a good board if you like browns.

The keycaps on the Noppoo are some of the nicest feeling that I've tried, but the wonky font annoyed me enough that I replaced them with some from WASD. I'm actually using that one at home... still trying to get used to browns. I'm using clears at work because they're quieter; I don't bottom out on them. Maybe someday I will get to the point that I can take the browns to work, but it's not looking likely at this point.

ishtob · « **Reply #129 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 19:56:52 »

this is the type of keybaord i got my shift key: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHERRY-G81-3480LUNUS-2-CLASSIC-104-USB-KEYBOARD-BLACK-/250746220228?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item3a61a3aec4#ht_2059wt_1168

but that's the laser printed one, look for the suffix of "G81-?

Hxxx" for doubleshot

TheProfosist · « **Reply #130 on:** Fri, 04 November 2011, 20:09:15 »

Quote from: ishtob;445908

this is the type of keybaord i got my shift key: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHERRY-G81-3480LUNUS-2-CLASSIC-104-USB-KEYBOARD-BLACK-/250746220228?pt=PCA_Mice_Trackballs&hash=item3a61a3aec4#ht_2059wt_1168

but that's the laser printed one, look for the suffix of "G81-?Hxxx" for doubleshot

Thanks Ill keep that as a backup option if I cant get a whole new set.

ishtob · « **Reply #131 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 19:59:19 »

aite here we go, I'm not done double checking to make sure nothing crosses wrong, The LED should work? i think.. not sure if its going to draw too much current.. my calculation says its going to be close to 1200mA worth of power because I have it all chained up in parallel

I also decided to add a DIP switch where the poker's switches were to select the region of LED backlit:
1 = master On/Off
2 = WASD only
3 = Esc only
4 = Rest of keybaord

TheProfosist · « **Reply #132 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 20:18:16 »

One thing that you might want to take into consideration is that usb 2.0 ports output 500mah so probably 3 would be needed to power this keyboard which would defintly be problematic if your using on a laptop or anything with minimal usb ports. Additionally about the led dip switch one thing i always thought was stupid was WASD only. Wouldnt everything but WASD be more helpful since you know were wasd is since its the only thing thats no light up and everything else is backlit?

ishtob · « **Reply #133 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:01:49 »

beauty of the DIP switch design is you can leave the WASD section off while the rest of the keyboard lit!

TheProfosist · « **Reply #134 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:03:28 »

Quote from: ishtob;447025

beauty of the DIP switch design is you can leave the WASD section off while the rest of the keyboard lit!

o nice, didnt look at it that way. Any ideas on the power consumption of the LEDs? now were going to need ourselves some double shot backlight compatible keycaps.

ishtob · « **Reply #135 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:03:52 »

is it possible to light the LED to like 25% power, so it would be at ~400mA?

TheProfosist · « **Reply #136 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:06:42 »

Quote from: ishtob;447028

is it possible to light the LED to like 25% power, so it would be at ~400mA?

I have no clue. Other fullsize keyboards manage to run off 1 USB port and they have a fair bit more leds.

ishtob · « **Reply #137 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:13:15 »

the blue 3mm i found is runs off 2.7V and uses 20mA of power... is it okay to cut that down to 5mA? to get like 25% of the original brightness?

ishtob · « **Reply #138 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:17:33 »

ok, at 5mA, im going to be getting about 30-40% brightness of the fully driven one, but total current used would be about 315mA

TheProfosist · « **Reply #139 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:20:57 »

You could wire 2 in a series then the series in parallel. I dont know what that would do for power consumption though. I only suggested that because of the voltage that may not work for other color LEDs or even other LEDs.

ishtob · « **Reply #140 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:40:12 »

well you would have to adjust the resister accordingly to each color LED, but most 3mm LED I looked at have a forward current of 20mA regardless of color, voltage varies

TheProfosist · « **Reply #141 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 21:53:40 »

Hmm alright I wonder what keyboard manufacturers do because a full keyboard would be somewhere around 2000mah if they are all at full power. As for the color of the LED I vote white.

alaricljs · « **Reply #142 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 22:52:01 »

wtf... PWM

edited to get capitals!

Index · « **Reply #143 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 23:15:28 »

Hey anyone have problems autorouting in KiCAD? For me, it seems to take forever, it's been running for 12+ hours and still nothing -___-.

ishtob · « **Reply #144 on:** Sun, 06 November 2011, 23:23:42 »

i did it all by hand

so iono, sorry

TheProfosist · « **Reply #145 on:** Mon, 07 November 2011, 01:49:34 »

so where are we sitting on this?

bpiphany · « **Reply #146 on:** Mon, 07 November 2011, 05:13:35 »

Most LEDs need ~>3V (There are 5V LEDs as well, but not in the same diversity.) which means they need to be connected in series with a resistor, or they will be blown up by the current. The Teensy pins should be capable to provide ~40mA each (Probably not all at the same time..). Driving each row of LEDs one at a time, using one Teensy pin for each LED on that row should be possible, I think.

LEDs can be connected in matrices, much like switches are, and like supressing ghosting by pinpointing the exact switch being pressed, it is possible to control which exact LEDs to lit. I think it should be possible to use the same set of pins to read the switch matrix and control the LED matrix. I'm attaching a schematic for how I would do it. All component parameters still need to be chosen correctly. And this is of course under the usual caveat, I'm not an electrical engineer =)

ishtob · « **Reply #147 on:** Mon, 07 November 2011, 07:37:27 »

i think im going to leave the LED all in parallel, white LED will be ~3.4V so we can't do a series of 2 LED (since that would drop the voltage to 2.5)

going to need to under-drive the LED to limit it to usb usable range

bpiphany · « **Reply #148 on:** Mon, 07 November 2011, 07:43:05 »

My design will take care of all LED issues. It requires correct programming of the controller of course to only activate one row of LEDs at a time. Lighting up one row at a time requires max ~25mA×13 = 325mA.

There are 5V LEDs too, with them you don't need to worry about any current limiting resistors. You still need to figure out how to only drive a maximum of 20 LEDs at the same time.

ishtob · « **Reply #149 on:** Mon, 07 November 2011, 07:47:12 »

looks intesrting prinsvalium,
there will be about 62 keys, are we going to be able to have enough current for that?

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Author Topic: Dox KB, Build your own! (Read 205130 times)