Cherry MX Switch Lubrication Guide

[sordna]

For the sake of science I opened and lubed my Kinesis' thumb switches. On the left thumbcluster I put Deoxit FaderLube F100 oil, and on the right I put Finish Line Extreme Fluoro grease (same as Krytox 203 or maybe 204). I lubed the plunger sides per the instructions posted in this thread, and the spring a bit, although I doubt lubing the spring makes much difference. Initial result is similar, but we'll see how these different lubes holds up over time.

[TheQsanity]

Fancy Fader 100%

[The_Ed]

This is what over $600 in lube looks like.

[WhiteFireDragon]

Nice. Did you run a GB on those or something? So basically $40 per tube? My GPL-103 was about $45 shipped for 1oz

I'm guessing GPL 200 grease is a thinner version of the 205?
 

[TotalChaos]

This is what over $600 in lube looks like.

Show Image

How many ounces / ml in each tube?

[The_Ed]

Nice. Did you run a GB on those or something? So basically $40 per tube? My GPL-103 was about $45 shipped for 1oz

I'm guessing GPL 200 grease is a thinner version of the 205?

How many ounces / ml in each tube?

I ran a GB over on DT, where were you guys? Krytox GPL 200 is 100 in grease form. So yes it is thinner than 205, but it is not a thinner version of 205. They are 2 ounce tubes, and at $43.50 + shipping/paypal apiece I have made no profit. In fact I even donated €10 to DT so I am negative.

I was just going over my numbers and freaking out a little... Until I realized I donated €10 to DT...

EDIT: All orders were rounded up to the nearest 50cents so there should have been a few dollars extra. Especially with the gift payments by some people. But I was negative $1.85 because I donated €10 to DT. I should have added 50cents more to every order. )

[jdcarpe]

^ I saw that and almost got in on it, but I want oil, not grease. Are you planning on another GB for 100/103/105?

[The_Ed]

^ I saw that and almost got in on it, but I want oil, not grease. Are you planning on another GB for 100/103/105?

No, I was actually planning on another GB for the entirety of the grease series 200-207. The oils would need some more communication to get, and I would rather just do the greases that I know I can get.

I have an ounce of 106 if you want that.

[WhiteFireDragon]

I ran a GB over on DT, where were you guys? Krytox GPL 200 is 100 in grease form. So yes it is thinner than 205, but it is not a thinner version of 205.

Well I'm never on DT, if I'd known I would have probably bought a tube to compare 103, 200, 205, and combinations of them.

Well if 100 is a thinner form of 105, and 205 is just the grease version of the 105 oil, then how is 200 not a thinner version of 205 grease? Do you have some 205 to compare? I'm thinking this 200 grease is almost the equivalent of a mixture of 103 and 205.

[The_Ed]

I ran a GB over on DT, where were you guys? Krytox GPL 200 is 100 in grease form. So yes it is thinner than 205, but it is not a thinner version of 205.

Well I'm never on DT, if I'd known I would have probably bought a tube to compare 103, 200, 205, and combinations of them.

Well if 100 is a thinner form of 105, and 205 is just the grease version of the 105 oil, then how is 200 not a thinner version of 205 grease? Do you have some 205 to compare? I'm thinking this 200 grease is almost the equivalent of a mixture of 103 and 205.

I am mostly on DT nowadays. There will likely be another lube GB soon.

100 is NOT a thinner form of 105. 100-107 are just the 'rankings' of 8 different oils. 200-207 are the grease forms of their corresponding 100-107 oils. A mixture of 103 and 205 would give you something completely different than 200. And yes I do have 205 to compare.

[mashby]

I'm in the process of building up a Poker and I'm slowly making my way through the thread to read every post, but I couldn't resist asking a couple of TL;DR questions. I hope you don't mind.

1. How Often Do You Need To Lube?
Another way of saying it -- how long does it last? There are several mods that I can do to the switches and/or the plate so that I can get back into the switches without desoldering, but I was just curious if it's even needed. To get back into the switches that is.

I'm sure a lot depends on how much you use your board, but I'm just curious what the average is.

2. Are Blues Worth Lubing?
From what I've read thus far, it sounds like MX-Blues are the most troublesome when it comes to lubing them due to the click. Is it worth going through the trouble?

Thanks in advance and hopefully my questions can help others that are still learning, like me.

[The_Beast]

I'm in the process of building up a Poker and I'm slowly making my way through the thread to read every post, but I couldn't resist asking a couple of TL;DR questions. I hope you don't mind.

1. How Often Do You Need To Lube?
Another way of saying it -- how long does it last? There are several mods that I can do to the switches and/or the plate so that I can get back into the switches without desoldering, but I was just curious if it's even needed. To get back into the switches that is.

I'm sure a lot depends on how much you use your board, but I'm just curious what the average is.

2. Are Blues Worth Lubing?
From what I've read thus far, it sounds like MX-Blues are the most troublesome when it comes to lubing them due to the click. Is it worth going through the trouble?

Thanks in advance and hopefully my questions can help others that are still learning, like me.

1) I think it depends on the lube used. I would think a thicker grease would last longer than a dry film or a light oil. Since lubing switches is relatively new, I don't think anyone has actually needed to re-lube due to use

2) Blues aren't worth owning much less lubing (lol, I hate blues).

[jdcarpe]

Blues aren't worth owning much less lubing (lol, I hate blues).

I might need to put that in my signature.

[The_Ed]

Some oils and greases degrade over time. Krytox does not, so if you use Krytox you'll never have to relube because of degradation. I prefer the krytox greases as they stay where you put them, unlike the krytox oils that get EVERYWHERE... I will probably start my second Krytox GB in a month or so. All 8 greases 200-207 will be in it.

[Gupgup]

Some oils and greases degrade over time. Krytox does not, so if you use Krytox you'll never have to relube because of degradation. I prefer the krytox greases as they stay where you put them, unlike the krytox oils that get EVERYWHERE... I will probably start my second Krytox GB in a month or so. All 8 greases 200-207 will be in it.

What lube would you recommend as a light oil, for clicky switches?

[Caaaarrrt]

Some oils and greases degrade over time. Krytox does not, so if you use Krytox you'll never have to relube because of degradation. I prefer the krytox greases as they stay where you put them, unlike the krytox oils that get EVERYWHERE... I will probably start my second Krytox GB in a month or so. All 8 greases 200-207 will be in it.

Do you have a personal preference of the Krytox greases? I have only used 205, are any significantly better than another or is it worth trying out different ones?

[The_Ed]

What lube would you recommend as a light oil, for clicky switches?

It is 'usually' recommended to NOT lube clicky switches...

[WhiteFireDragon]

It just takes some precision lubing to not get any between the white moving part and the top part that stops it from moving. Extremely small amounts! You'd want to lube the "leaf" and the bottom legs that stick out too. Those parts you don't have to worry about since it won't prevent the white part from sticking.

[The_Ed]

Do you have a personal preference of the Krytox greases? I have only used 205, are any significantly better than another or is it worth trying out different ones?

I just did a GB for 200, but I have not had the time to try it out yet though. I just shipped the last of them off yesterday. I expect that I will like it a lot more than my 205 though as it is less viscous. It's all up to personal preference though, so try away.

[Gupgup]

What lube would you recommend as a light oil, for clicky switches?

It is 'usually' recommended to NOT lube clicky switches...

Alrighty so if it is recommended, which would you use

[Caaaarrrt]

Do you have a personal preference of the Krytox greases? I have only used 205, are any significantly better than another or is it worth trying out different ones?

I just did a GB for 200, but I have not had the time to try it out yet though. I just shipped the last of them off yesterday. I expect that I will like it a lot more than my 205 though as it is less viscous. It's all up to personal preference though, so try away.

Ah yeah fair enough, that's what I would expect too. Now I have to decide whether it's worth getting in on your next GB or just being happy with my 205 lol.

[WhiteFireDragon]

This was done last year, but I finally uploaded it. Might help if you're doing it for the first time or just want to be thorough. I'll upload one like this for lubing costar and cherry stabilizers as well after I edit the video.

[Leslieann]

1. How Often Do You Need To Lube?
Another way of saying it -- how long does it last? There are several mods that I can do to the switches and/or the plate so that I can get back into the switches without desoldering, but I was just curious if it's even needed. To get back into the switches that is.

I'm sure a lot depends on how much you use your board, but I'm just curious what the average is.

2. Are Blues Worth Lubing?
From what I've read thus far, it sounds like MX-Blues are the most troublesome when it comes to lubing them due to the click. Is it worth going through the trouble?

1. There is too many variables to say.
How much typing do you do, what type of lube, what type of switch, what do you hope to accomplish with it.

If you lube the switch contact, it will eventually wipe away, however sliders and springs should stay lubed for a long time.

2. See below.
Is it worth it? hard to say.

It is 'usually' recommended to NOT lube clicky switches...

You can lube them just fine.
However, you only want to grease the spring ends, and use a very light lube on the slider tracks, nothing on the switch contact itself.

Depending on the lube used, it will dull the tactile feel for a few days until the lube settle in.
Lube will reduce friction by about 5grams of pressure at the activation point and the greased springs reduce noise ever so slightly, it's a lot of work, for little gain.

[Glod]

This was done last year, but I finally uploaded it. Might help if you're doing it for the first time or just want to be thorough. I'll upload one like this for lubing costar and cherry stabilizers as well after I edit the video.

thank you for these videos always

[mark_thaddeus]

I was looking for a video showing the long and easy way of lubing and I stumbled on to this thread, thanks for the video! Made my life easier!

[Michael]

Not a super detailed guide, just a quick photo I took and added some lube points for Cherry ML switches. Essentially, there are several points of friction where the stem meets the housing that needs to be lubed, as well as the inside of the housing that the stem comes in contact with:



I used GPL 100 for this.

[islisis]

For the sake of science I opened and lubed my Kinesis' thumb switches. On the left thumbcluster I put Deoxit FaderLube F100 oil, and on the right I put Finish Line Extreme Fluoro grease (same as Krytox 203 or maybe 204).

Hi Sordna, any update to this?
Times like this I really regret the non-replaceable stems in the finger wells 
Can anyone think of an alternative way to lubricate kinesis finger switches?

[sordna]

Well, my conclusion was that the fluoro grease is better than the faderlube oil. However neither made a huge difference, so I' might try other stuff as well.
The only way to lube the kinesis finger switches (which can't be easily removed) is to push down the stem and flood the switch with oil, which is rather messy.

[islisis]

Hmm, I have faderlube so that was the first thing I was going to try. What difference were you hoping for? I have found the thumb keys in particular to be quite rough on certain angles of activation...

Sounds like flooding the switch like that wouldn't come recommend
Looking forward to any developments

[sordna]

If thumb keys are your main concern, you can open those up easily and lube them. The difference I was hoping for, is eliminate friction. But I can still feel (and hear) friction. My reds are still not as smooth as say my Goldtouch rubber domes (or a topre board I once tried).

[WhiteFireDragon]

The last of my lubing uploads, Costar stabilizers, Cherry stabilizers, and ML switches.

[Glod]

i have some huge huge respect for WFD and others here that lube and sticker boards multiple boards.

Did my first lube and sticker and it took over 4.5 hours for me for less than 80 keys for the ergo dox. But it was worth it! Lubed Reds are "Enhanced Reds" and just a pleasure to type on and quieter.

103 and 205 seems to be a good mix but it sure looks disgusting mixed up


(yes i know my brush is a bit too big, i was impatient)

[Photoelectric]

I could use your advice about lubricating my keyboard (or not).

I currently own a CM Storm Trigger with MX Browns--it's fairly new.  The keys feel great, but they do have that slight friction, going down--some of the switches have it more noticeably.  Pushing a key down slowly, I feel friction past actuation point.  Has that teeth-grinding quality--difficult to describe.  It's not audible, but I can feel it.

Does this imply my switches need additional lubrication?  Or is that normal for MX Browns?

Moreover, is it going to be a pain to lubricate if my switches are plate-mounted?  Having looked at the guide on the first page, it looks like I need to actually disassemble the entire keyboard to lubricate properly?

[nubbinator]

I could use your advice about lubricating my keyboard (or not).

I currently own a CM Storm Trigger with MX Browns--it's fairly new.  The keys feel great, but they do have that slight friction, going down--some of the switches have it more noticeably.  Pushing a key down slowly, I feel friction past actuation point.  Has that teeth-grinding quality--difficult to describe.  It's not audible, but I can feel it.

Does this imply my switches need additional lubrication?  Or is that normal for MX Browns?

Moreover, is it going to be a pain to lubricate if my switches are plate-mounted?  Having looked at the guide on the first page, it looks like I need to actually disassemble the entire keyboard to lubricate properly?

Try and break them in a little and see if that feeling goes away.  Sometimes just sitting there and actuating the switch repeatedly will make it feel better.  If that doesn't help and you don't want to desolder everything and open up every switch, you can try the Ripster method of lubing and spray some DeoxIT Fader into the switches.

[Photoelectric]

I could use your advice about lubricating my keyboard (or not).

I currently own a CM Storm Trigger with MX Browns--it's fairly new.  The keys feel great, but they do have that slight friction, going down--some of the switches have it more noticeably.  Pushing a key down slowly, I feel friction past actuation point.  Has that teeth-grinding quality--difficult to describe.  It's not audible, but I can feel it.

Does this imply my switches need additional lubrication?  Or is that normal for MX Browns?

Moreover, is it going to be a pain to lubricate if my switches are plate-mounted?  Having looked at the guide on the first page, it looks like I need to actually disassemble the entire keyboard to lubricate properly?

Try and break them in a little and see if that feeling goes away.  Sometimes just sitting there and actuating the switch repeatedly will make it feel better.  If that doesn't help and you don't want to desolder everything and open up every switch, you can try the Ripster method of lubing and spray some DeoxIT Fader into the switches.

Thank you.  I've been using the keyboard for a few weeks now, and even the commonly used switches are still scratchy / have audible friction.  If that's normal, I'll let it go.  Otherwise, not sure if I should break apart my board for full lubrication yet, as it's still under full warranty, and it seems like I just chose the wrong keyboard for all the things I want to do (not modding friendly, etc.)   Would love to swap it for something else now =/

I've looked for DeoxIT Fader spray on this site and have not found anything by Ripster about it.  Would you mind giving me a pointer, please?

[The_Ed]

Ripster was perma-banned, and all his posts and wikis were deleted. You will probably find it on Reddit or his Imgur account -> http://ripster.imgur.com/

[Photoelectric]

Ripster was perma-banned, and all his posts and wikis were deleted. You will probably find it on Reddit or his Imgur account -> http://ripster.imgur.com/

Thank you much.  I guess I'll contact him on OCN and ask about this spray lubrication deal, as it's very attractive at the moment.  I have a feeling I'll end up doing a full-on diligent lubrication eventually anyway, as I get very picky about doing things right, but for now it would be a good start!

General question about stock keyboard switches though: do they come pre-lubricated, or do manufacturers just leave them plain?  Mechanical switches are supposed to last for a long time, and so I'm surprised they don't have good lubrication to start with when pre-installed.  Or maybe it's just some brands that don't lubricate?  Sorry, probably a very newbie question

[nubbinator]

Thank you much.  I guess I'll contact him on OCN and ask about this spray lubrication deal, as it's very attractive at the moment.  I have a feeling I'll end up doing a full-on diligent lubrication eventually anyway, as I get very picky about doing things right, but for now it would be a good start!

General question about stock keyboard switches though: do they come pre-lubricated, or do manufacturers just leave them plain?  Mechanical switches are supposed to last for a long time, and so I'm surprised they don't have good lubrication to start with when pre-installed.  Or maybe it's just some brands that don't lubricate?  Sorry, probably a very newbie question

Last I saw, he was banned on OCN as well.

[dndlmx]

Was this ripster fellow the resident epic troll here at GH, or something?

[The_Ed]

No, he was our god.



In Helvetica we trust. R.I.P.ster

[jdcarpe]

ripster was the self-proclaimed #1 Keyboard Expert on the Planet. He had written or contributed to most of the articles in the previous wiki. He had a couple of epic feuds with keyboardlover and harrison. Just before he got himself permabanned, he became the resident epic troll for a short time. He now hangs out at reddit and complains about Geekhack.

The loss of that wiki (due to the R00TW0RM attack), was probably the biggest loss this forum has ever suffered.

[The_Ed]

I swear he must have written ~90% of the previous wiki. All those hours, aaaand it's gone... Was really bugs me is that all his posts were deleted a few months after GH came back. So if you look at any of the old threads, they no longer make sense.

[dndlmx]

Poof.

[Aranair]

mm, by any chance, is there a similar topre lubrication guide ?

[Aranair]

mmm, just got to lube some browns with gpl205. Maybe its a little too heavy D: It feels almost like red switches after lubing!

[jdcarpe]

mmm, just got to lube some browns with gpl205. Maybe its a little too heavy D: It feels almost like red switches after lubing!

That's how they should feel. No more scratchy!

[Jocelyn]

mmm, just got to lube some browns with gpl205. Maybe its a little too heavy D: It feels almost like red switches after lubing!

That's how they should feel. No more scratchy!

This^ Even my Ergo Clears feel almost linear, but they feel lovely

[Aranair]

yeah I suppose, but I do wish it was smooth BUT still tactile enough lol. Yeah maybe I should try Ergo Clears lubed lol.

[Jocelyn]

yeah I suppose, but I do wish it was smooth BUT still tactile enough lol. Yeah maybe I should try Ergo Clears lubed lol.

Lol you totally SHOULD! There is definitely still tactility, but it feels so much better now and they're so much quieter

Edit - What I should have said was that lubed ergo clears are still more tactile than non-lubed browns imo.

[Sifo]

Use less grease in your mixture and you will get the smooth tactile feeling. Use even less grease and you will get this amazing crisp feeling. RO59 is good ****