Author Topic: DIY Paracording Questions  (Read 3568 times)

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Offline bmilcs

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DIY Paracording Questions
« on: Sun, 22 May 2016, 13:42:04 »
I've gone through Nubbinator's & whiskerBox's OP and replies on how to make shielded USB cables... and I have a few more specific questions. I have a very technical saavy family and have a ton of USB cables to make.

What I'm looking to do:
- Paracord 550 sleeved
- Some hot glue
- Some heatshrink

1. 3:1 Heatshrink. What inner diameter do you suggest? Is there a size that will fit snug both Male A & Mini-B connectors? I have a feeling 1/2" will do the trick.
- I might do one of those 2:1 variety sets to experiment with colors/sizes.
- Adhesive vs non-adhesive?

2. Paracord 550
- What are good vendors for this? I'd really like to get legit 550 paracord, over just the sheathing.

3. USB Wire
- I know you have to be careful with gauge of wire you choose. Will 28/28 fit for sure?
- If it doesn't fit, is it  tricky removing the USB shielding? What tool is works best here?

Thanks to everyone who has contributed so far! You've been a huge help and gave me the confidence to take on soldering... a skill I was terrified to once do.

- Bryan
  
TGR.JANE.V2 #40/40 <3 // TOKYO60 #1 // KBD75  #1 #2 #3 #4 // ES87  #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
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Offline SKD

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #1 on: Sun, 22 May 2016, 17:15:20 »
I'm in the process of starting some custom paracord/techflex/teleios cables myself.

1. You don't really need 3:1 heatshrink, plus they are more expensive. All my 10 colours are 2:1. Most of mine are 10mm but some are more like 12mm diameter. 10mm fits perfectly over the metal type A/B connectors, metal type mini a connector and those commonly found mini A plastic connectors. 10mm doesn't fit over the plastic type micro USB but 12mm does. I'll post pictures tomorrow if you don't know which ones I'm referring to.

You also don't need adhesive, make sure the cable and sleeve is clamped tightly to the connector and you should be good. Some like to glue it down with hot glue and super glue. I've done a few cables with adhesive heatshink where I put half on the sleeve and half on the connector clamp bit. But this adds a bit of extra thickness.

2. I'm in UK so I don't know what the shops you got out there. However, I've ordered a custom cable from a reputable UK shop, paracord from china, and paracord from a UK shop that says they are genuine. Guess which two was the most similar? The ones I ordered from china and the UK shop that says they are genuine lol. When you order just make sure its the 4mm type III ones with the 7 inner strands inside.

3. I have a reel of these:

http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-power/8723eq-100m/cable-twin-twisted-pair-8723-eq/dp/CB15204
http://uk.farnell.com/pro-power/htc3024-1/cable-alarm-screen-4-core-100m/dp/1643740

One is shielded and one is unshielded, with a bit of price difference. The unshielded is more flexible than the shielded one I have but some shielded wire are still quite flexible but this may be due to the higher awg or thinner sheath. You also need to fine out the sheath diameter (overall outer diameter). Mine are about 3.5mm and paracord cord fits over that nicely. For most keyboards, 28awg and unshielded are fine since they don't draw too much power (you can read up things like voltage drop to awg size).

I wouldn't even bother taking out the 4 cores of a wire to remove the shielding, then put the 4 cores back in. It's very time consuming and not worth the effort, just buy unshielded wire if you don't need the shielding.

I plan on posting some photos of what I've been up to with my cables but I haven't got all the stuff I need yet, still waiting for more connectors. But I made a instagram for my cables (shameless plug :D) if you want to check out mine https://www.instagram.com/skdcables/
« Last Edit: Sun, 22 May 2016, 17:18:47 by SKD »

Offline bmilcs

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #2 on: Sun, 22 May 2016, 19:41:26 »
Thanks man for getting back to me. Sadly, I pulled the trigger on all my stuff about an hour ago lol. I ended up getting a variety pack of regular heat shrink and glue gun.

Dropped maybe $150 in various supplies and tools. This should be fun :)
  
TGR.JANE.V2 #40/40 <3 // TOKYO60 #1 // KBD75  #1 #2 #3 #4 // ES87  #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
INCOMPLETE  Duck Orion v3, 2 pcb black on black (might sell, pm me)  | SOUTHPAW.65

Offline tacnificent

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #3 on: Sun, 22 May 2016, 22:54:30 »
"Genuine" 550 paracord for this purpose isn't that critical. It's when you'll be using it for actual load bearing is when you'll want to ensure authenticity.

How to tell? It'll be listed as MIL-C-5040H, have 7 inner strands with each of these strands tightly interwoven with 3 smaller strands.

http://www.amazon.com/750-Paracord-MIL-C-5040h-PIA-C-5040-Parachute/dp/B00CMHOMKI

Offline SKD

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #4 on: Mon, 23 May 2016, 15:22:30 »
Thanks man for getting back to me. Sadly, I pulled the trigger on all my stuff about an hour ago lol. I ended up getting a variety pack of regular heat shrink and glue gun.

Dropped maybe $150 in various supplies and tools. This should be fun :)

Have fun! I've spent probably double that so far stocking up on materials and parts, there's still more I want to add before I start proper though!

Offline bmilcs

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #5 on: Tue, 24 May 2016, 10:16:44 »
I need to find a good, inexpensive set of various color heatshrink. Any tips?
  
TGR.JANE.V2 #40/40 <3 // TOKYO60 #1 // KBD75  #1 #2 #3 #4 // ES87  #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
INCOMPLETE  Duck Orion v3, 2 pcb black on black (might sell, pm me)  | SOUTHPAW.65

Offline SKD

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Re: DIY Paracording Questions
« Reply #6 on: Tue, 24 May 2016, 10:35:12 »
What I've found is that heatshrink just isn't cheap lol. I spent about £45 total on 11 colours, 5 meters of each.