That cap set will work fine with your selected PCB & case (the case really doesn't figure into the layout beyond the size of it). The WT60-D supports ISO Enter & split R Shift. Not sure if it would be worth the higher price & shipping costs to you, but 1UP KBs in the US still has some silver Klippe-Ts in stock. https://www.1upkeyboards.com/shop/bases-and-cases/aluminum-base/mekanisk-klippe-r3-high-profile-case/
Alright, so I kinda create my "own" layout when I place the stabilizers and switches? I will have to wait for mekanisk to release new ones, the shipping cost from US to Sweden is kinda crazy atm!
Kinda of, most PCBs will come with at least a few extra switch & stabilizer spots to allow for more than a single fixed layout. In the case of the WT60-D it allows for a full 2u backspace with a stabilizer or a split backspace without one (2 - 1u keys in that spot), a ANSI or ISO enter (vertical setup for the stabilizer for ISO, horizontal setup for ANSI), a 2.25u L shift with a stabilizer or a split L shift without one (1.25u shift & a 1u </> or 1u pipe key key), a 2.75 R shift with a stabilizer or a split R shift without one (1.75 Shift with a 1u key to the right of it). Then finally it allows for 2 different bottom row set ups one with a 6.25u spacebar & a 6.25u stabilizer (3 x 1.25u caps on the left side of the space & 4 x 1.25u caps on the right side of the space, the standard ISO & ANSI bottom row) or one with a 7u spacebar & a 7u stabilizer (1.5u Ctrl, 1u OS, 1.5u Alt, 7u space, 1.5u Alt, 1u OS or Fn, 1.5u Ctrl (commonly referred to as a Tsangan bottom row).
What i usually do is dry fit the tricky spaces with a switch that has my desired cap on it to make sure I know where the switches & stabilizers go on my selected layout. If you are using plate mount switches you can keep the caps on the switches after they are installed & wedge pieces of heavy paper in between the switches to keep them all lined up properly while you solder them in. Anyways hope this info helps you some, & always feel free to ask questions on the forum if you're not sure what to do! Oh feel free to PM me for help if you would need it also.
Edit: Another thing I forgot to mention is the Klippe-T uses the most standard placement of standoffs for 60% tray mount cases. So you could always grab a cheaper alum case like the KBDfans 5° or Tofu cases as placeholder till you can get a Klippe (the Tofu vase is a clone of the Klippe afterall). That way you go ahead & build your board now, then just easily swap it into the Klippe when you get your hands on one. Just make sure when you order a plate it allows for ISO enter & Split L shift, if the options are confusing get a universal 60% plate. They have a bunch more cuts in them, but allow for all variants of ISO & ANSI layouts.
