Alps Appreciation Thread

[pixelpusher]

I think I’ll do an alps64 or one of the 65 or 68 PCBs from lfkeyboards.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

[tanvir175]

I have a question about cleaning alps switches as well.

I managed to snag two AEK's with Orange Alps off eBay; one super nice and clean and the other, which I plan to use with an Alps64 PCB, is really dirty. Not sure if the user who sold me the clean one also cleaned the switches or just barely ever use it, but the switches feel like they're in pristine condition. Although, both of these being my first alps boards, I don't know what that feels like. The dirtier one feels super scratchy and nasty.

I have an ultrasonic cleaner and I have desoldered most of the switches already (some of them have pins bent onto the PCB which makes it a pain in the ass to remove) so I am getting ready to cleaning them.

As I understand it, you should clean the bottom housing, the top housing, the sliders & springs.

To the questions now: Is it safe to clean the bottom housing with the contact leaf still inside? The one that is connected to the two pins. Some of the pins have excess solder on them preventing them from coming out. I know this is easy to remedy but just wanted to ask if it was okay/recommended to throw those in the cleaner as well.
Also, is it recommended/okay to throw the tactile leaf into the cleaner as well?

[macclack]

Honestly I was thinking about buying an AEK II just to rip out the switches, not to use as-is.  They're relatively cheap and accessible.  But I'm surprised you guys are so negative about the switches as I generally have heard good things about them.

How would you compare the AEK II switches to a Matias 'quiet click'?

I like dampened cream switches but I guess I'm in the minority. They're better than Matias' quiet click switches. The Matias switches feel slightly cheaper, are a little scratchier and the double-tactile bump takes some getting used to.

[EscapeVelocity]

I like Dampened Cream Alps and the Matias Quiet.  I decided to give up the AEK II and my Griffin iMate after I got the Maias Quiet Pro keyboard.  Less fiddling with key remappers with the quirks of the old Apple Keyboards. 

I wouldnt say it's my favorite switch or even my favorite Alps switch, but they come in real handy when microphone recording is involved...such as podcasting, livestreaming, etc.

[Blaise170]

Even though I'm not a fan of Cream Damped, I might buy another AEK to use at work.

By the way, are there any TKL or 100% Alps boards with aluminum cases (that aren't selling for $800+ like the Kingsaver)?

[d.caminero]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

[Delirious]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

Www.lfkeyboards.com

[jdcarpe]

Even though I'm not a fan of Cream Damped, I might buy another AEK to use at work.

By the way, are there any TKL or 100% Alps boards with aluminum cases (that aren't selling for $800+ like the Kingsaver)?

You could always get a KBParadise V80 MTS and put it in one of the TEX alu cases.

[Blaise170]

You could always get a KBParadise V80 MTS and put it in one of the TEX alu cases.

Oh ya I forgot about those. I have a bunch of new Green Alps so I might do a build with them at some point.

[d.caminero]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

Www.lfkeyboards.com

Thank you very much for the suggestion, although I'm looking for a 60 pcb to fit in a standard 60 case or 65 to fit in a TADA kind of case. Might consider a 68 though, not too much wider actually.

[Delirious]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

Www.lfkeyboards.com

Thank you very much for the suggestion, although I'm looking for a 60 pcb to fit in a standard 60 case or 65 to fit in a TADA kind of case. Might consider a 68 though, not too much wider actually.

http://www.lfkeyboards.com/smk65.html

[d.caminero]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

Www.lfkeyboards.com

Thank you very much for the suggestion, although I'm looking for a 60 pcb to fit in a standard 60 case or 65 to fit in a TADA kind of case. Might consider a 68 though, not too much wider actually.

http://www.lfkeyboards.com/smk65.html

Unfortunately this one does not support split space bar, but thank you very much for the suggestion, I actually didn't see it was also compatible with regular ALPS. If I can't find anything with a split spacebar I'll take one of those.
Thanks again!

[nsmechkb]

Hello guys quick question.
I was wondering if there is any available 60 or 65 PCB for ALPS with a split spacebar? I've been looking for one, but it seems the only options are in GB phase and not regularly held or anything.

Delirious' suggestion is a great one.  If you need the split spacebar, LFKeyboards has their 68-key Alps PCB:

http://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk78-pcb-68key.html

There's also Clueboard PCB's.  You can see the supported layouts near the bottom of the page:

https://clueboard.co/parts/clueboard-66-pcb-25

[Kevadu]

Delirious' suggestion is a great one.  If you need the split spacebar, LFKeyboards has their 68-key Alps PCB:

http://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk78-pcb-68key.html

Where would you get a case for one of those PCBs without buying a whole VA68M just for its case?  Because those aren't exactly cheap.

[Delirious]

Delirious' suggestion is a great one.  If you need the split spacebar, LFKeyboards has their 68-key Alps PCB:

http://www.lfkeyboards.com/lfk78-pcb-68key.html

Where would you get a case for one of those PCBs without buying a whole VA68M just for its case?  Because those aren't exactly cheap.

Vamillo have their own subforum here on GH, someone was able to contact them and buy just the case alone before. Maybe they still have that offer.

[pixelpusher]

Va68m kit:
http://s.aliexpress.com/7Vj2auUz

You can message the seller and see if you can get just a case

[Blaise170]

Considering building out a TKL, but not sure whether I should get aluminum or acrylic. Suggestions?

[d.caminero]

Considering building out a TKL, but not sure whether I should get aluminum or acrylic. Suggestions?

I like the sound of acrylic and the feeling of aluminum, so are you going to use linears or tactiles/clickies?

[Blaise170]

Considering building out a TKL, but not sure whether I should get aluminum or acrylic. Suggestions?

I like the sound of acrylic and the feeling of aluminum, so are you going to use linears or tactiles/clickies?

Most likely green but I might swap in my blues at some point. I think I'm liking the look of acrylic but then I'd probably be tempted to also add LEDs...

[d.caminero]

Most likely green but I might swap in my blues at some point. I think I'm liking the look of acrylic but then I'd probably be tempted to also add LEDs...

Yeah, clear acrylic with backlighting is always a good option!

[smithyithy]

~delete~

[smithyithy]

Tina, Alps64, custom copper plate, linear-modded un-damped Creams w/ 70cn springs.

Will be putting DCS Alpine Winter on this in 7u HHKB layout, just need to sort out the stabilizers really.

I had originally click-modded the damped Creams after refurbing them but IO just wasn't happy with the consistency, so removed the leafs to make them linear. Not the perfect switch, granted, but they' re smooth and have a nice clack on the bottom-out.

[pixelpusher]

So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches.  He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts.  I'm posting this link here for anyone interested.  This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.

The sliders:



The stabilizer fix:




https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403

[d.caminero]

So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches.  He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts.  I'm posting this link here for anyone interested.  This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.

The sliders:
(Attachment Link)


The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)



https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403

I hope the last prototypes work well because I want to put orange alps on my pearl with GMK Yuri and the pearl is shipping already!

Also, I have a question. Is it mandatory to raise somehow the stabilizers if I want to use cherry stabs with alps switches? As in DSA Lightcycle or DCS Alpine Winter. Shouldn't they work properly if I simply install cherry stabs on the board?

[E3E]

So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches.  He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts.  I'm posting this link here for anyone interested.  This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.

The sliders:
(Attachment Link)


The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)


https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403

I don't think that offset is needed, actually.

There's precedent of these adapters on vintage Alps keyboards already, as seen on the ADDS 1010 terminal keyboard here:

[pixelpusher]

So, blindassassin is working on the "nexus" sliders to allow MX caps to be used on alps switches.  He's also come up with an interesting solution for cherry to alps stabilizer inserts.  I'm posting this link here for anyone interested.  This would also work for SP alps caps (granite, light cycle, alpine winter) that come with cherry stabilizer cruciforms.

The sliders:
(Attachment Link)


The stabilizer fix:
(Attachment Link)


https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=93403

I don't think that offset is needed, actually.

There's precedent of these adapters on vintage Alps keyboards already, as seen on the ADDS 1010 terminal keyboard here:

Show Image

The offset is needed on mx keycaps.  Their stabilizer stems are set further in.

[E3E]

The offset is needed on mx keycaps.  Their stabilizer stems are set further in.

Are you also aware of the differences in traditional Cherry 7u stabilizer spacing versus TaiHao/SP's 7u spacing? It's actually not the same either.

That said, the offset only seems more necessary only if you plan on using the original wire. I guess it would save the trouble of needing to custom bend wire for the stabs if that's the goal.

Otherwise, positioning isn't important due to the nature of Alps stabs.

[Blaise170]

Brought my X68K into work today. 

[E3E]

Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.

Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.

[d.caminero]

Show Image

Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.

Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.

This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.

[E3E]

Show Image

Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.

Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.

This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.

Right. I've actually made my own MX stabs but shaving down traditional Alps stabs to fit into the Y axis of the cruciform mount, and then just bended wire for it myself. It's what I use on my FJELL build!



This one uses a Cherry-style space bar from the Tai Hao FAME TH-5539 model that has Cherry clone keycaps that are Alps mount. Yeah, all it took was modifying the inserts to fit and bending wire and it was good to go.

I might not have needed to bend the wire had I not chosen to use normal stab inserts as opposed to the long space bar ones (which I like to hold onto).

[pixelpusher]

Space bars are an oddity and will require some further investigating, I'm sure.  The 7u spacebar pictured above is the only cap that I've seen that had the stabilizer mounts in the same spot on MX and Alps.  All other keys (2u up to 2.75u) have inserts that are closer to the center stem than alps.  Because of this, the alps stabilizer wire just barely reaches (and often does not).  The result is a wire that pops out when shifted a millimeter or so to one side or the other.   The only solution for putting alps mount keycaps with cherry stabilizers on a board to this day has been to bend your own wire.  You can see discussions on it in the forums for Light Cycle and Alpine winter Alps caps.  Keep in mind, this has only been an issue for people using Signature Plastics alps keycaps up until now, b/c they were the only alps caps that had cherry stabilizer mounts (except for Tai Hoa space bars).

But the new nexus sliders will have many people using MX keycaps on alps boards.  They're going to expect to be able to swap out the slider in their alps builds and use MX caps... but they would have to re-bend the stabilizer wire, and trust me, that's not fun or easy to do well.  The inserts will be a Godsend for cheap if they work right.

[pixelpusher]

Show Image

Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.

Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.

This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.

Right. I've actually made my own MX stabs but shaving down traditional Alps stabs to fit into the Y axis of the cruciform mount, and then just bended wire for it myself. It's what I use on my FJELL build!

Show Image

This one uses a Cherry-style space bar from the Tai Hao FAME TH-5539 model that has Cherry clone keycaps that are Alps mount. Yeah, all it took was modifying the inserts to fit and bending wire and it was good to go.

I might not have needed to bend the wire had I not chosen to use normal stab inserts as opposed to the long space bar ones (which I like to hold onto).

You have to use the long ones because the wire is taller and has to slide up more.  If you just use costar inserts the keycap won't press all the way down. 

[E3E]

You have to use the long ones because the wire is taller and has to slide up more.  If you just use costar inserts the keycap won't press all the way down.

I'm not using long ones for that bar, I'm using the shorter ones. It's actually not necessary, it's a matter of the way the wire is bent more than needing the extra depth for travel. You can see this with certain Alps space bars like on M0115 (AEKs) and M0116s.

Also yeah, using the stab mounts as is on MX stab Alps mount caps does require custom wire bending, which can be tedious. The 7u spacing on TaiHao and SP and most Alps space bars that use MX mount stabs (Monterey keyboard's caps do too) seem to all have the same spacing. Cherry is a little more widely spaced. 
 
The 6.25u spacing seems to be more universal between them though, not considering offset stems.

[d.caminero]

Show Image

Here's what I mean. I'm pretty sure the 7u positioning of stabs is the same on SP's MX caps, or is that not the case? It also matches the spacing on 7u vintage space bars that used MX stabs despite being Alps mount for the switch.

Cherry's are a bit off in comparison, speaking as someone who's stem-swapped Gateron space bars for some Alps builds using Cherry stabs.

This is what I was asking about before. I'm under the impression that you don't need anything to use MX stabs if you don't rise the stems in ALPS.

Right. I've actually made my own MX stabs but shaving down traditional Alps stabs to fit into the Y axis of the cruciform mount, and then just bended wire for it myself. It's what I use on my FJELL build!

Show Image

This one uses a Cherry-style space bar from the Tai Hao FAME TH-5539 model that has Cherry clone keycaps that are Alps mount. Yeah, all it took was modifying the inserts to fit and bending wire and it was good to go.

I might not have needed to bend the wire had I not chosen to use normal stab inserts as opposed to the long space bar ones (which I like to hold onto).

I can't picture what you describe here, can you post some pics?
So, if I want to use Lightcycle with regular MX stabs, all I'll need to do is bend some wire, is that correct?

Also, beautiful  board, as always E3!

[E3E]

I can't picture what you describe here, can you post some pics?
So, if I want to use Lightcycle with regular MX stabs, all I'll need to do is bend some wire, is that correct?

Also, beautiful  board, as always E3!

Sure, I'll see if I can take some pictures for you. Yep, bend some wire and use a file or rotary tool to thin down the Alps cap insert so it can fit into the MX mount stab in the cap. Then you just bend wire that fits properly into it, and you're good to go.

Also, thank you! It's definitely one of my favorite Alps boards.

[E3E]

Still my all time favorite. 

[d.caminero]

I can't picture what you describe here, can you post some pics?
So, if I want to use Lightcycle with regular MX stabs, all I'll need to do is bend some wire, is that correct?

Also, beautiful  board, as always E3!

Sure, I'll see if I can take some pictures for you. Yep, bend some wire and use a file or rotary tool to thin down the Alps cap insert so it can fit into the MX mount stab in the cap. Then you just bend wire that fits properly into it, and you're good to go.

Also, thank you! It's definitely one of my favorite Alps boards.

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

Those inserts you mention are needed to use an ALPS stabilizer with an MX cap, isn't it? So to use DSA Lightcycle with MX stabs I will only need the bent wire, am I correct? Because I'm getting a bit confused now XD

I've found some answers in the DSA Lightcycle thread, there is no need for modifications if you are using regular MX stabs with DSA Lightcycle. All the modifications were required to use other kind of stabilizers.

Also, that hot swappable mod :p :p
In fact, since I'm receiving 2 Pearl PCB's I might try it on one of them, you already gave me some explanations some time ago via reddit.

[Kevadu]

Inspired by Chyrosran22 I decided to visit my local recycling center to look for keyboards.  They certainly did have lots of keyboards but the vast majority were crappy rubber domes not worth a second glance...

Then I found this:




The box was a little beat up but the keyboard inside was absolutely pristine.  In fact it doesn't look like it's ever been used at all.  That red "Important" sticker was there from the start.  While I'm not entirely sure what I would do with that tiny trackpad that's included I tested it out and it does indeed work.  Oh yeah and it's got a split spacebar even.  That's neat enough to make me forgive the tiny backspace key.

This thing cost me a whopping $5.  Viva recycling centers!

But the really curious thing about this keyboard to me is the switches.  Based on the age (it has WIndows keys and all that) I would assume it's using simplified Alps.  And the slider is definitely white.  But let's just say that these are the quietest white alps I've ever encountered.  The keyboard itself isn't particularly quiet but that seems to mostly be due to the keys bottoming out.  If I take a keycap off and play with the switches...well, there's a slight noise to them but certainly nothing like I'm used to with clicky Alps.  And it actually feels more like a tactile switch as well.

There is a tactile white Alps variant but that's complicated Alps.  This keyboard looks relatively modern and I have a hard time believing they were still using complicated Alps for it.  But I've never even heard of a tactile simplified white Alps switch...

So what is this?  I guess I could open up a switch and have a look though with the keyboard being in such great condition I'm somewhat reluctant.

[Hak Foo]

Has anyone pimped the Omnikey-style PCB group buy here?  It can either be used to replace the PCB on any of the Omnikey boards, or for a fresh build.  Supports ANSI and ISO conversions, as well as the original BAE.

I know a bunch of you have mountains of switches harvested from AEKs and old Blue Alps boards, waiting for something to do with them.

Disclosure:  I am in on it and want you to buy dozens so it's cheaper for me.

[chyros]

Inspired by Chyrosran22 I decided to visit my local recycling center to look for keyboards.  They certainly did have lots of keyboards but the vast majority were crappy rubber domes not worth a second glance...

Then I found this:

Show Image

Show Image

Show Image

The box was a little beat up but the keyboard inside was absolutely pristine.  In fact it doesn't look like it's ever been used at all.  That red "Important" sticker was there from the start.  While I'm not entirely sure what I would do with that tiny trackpad that's included I tested it out and it does indeed work.  Oh yeah and it's got a split spacebar even.  That's neat enough to make me forgive the tiny backspace key.

This thing cost me a whopping $5.  Viva recycling centers!

But the really curious thing about this keyboard to me is the switches.  Based on the age (it has WIndows keys and all that) I would assume it's using simplified Alps.  And the slider is definitely white.  But let's just say that these are the quietest white alps I've ever encountered.  The keyboard itself isn't particularly quiet but that seems to mostly be due to the keys bottoming out.  If I take a keycap off and play with the switches...well, there's a slight noise to them but certainly nothing like I'm used to with clicky Alps.  And it actually feels more like a tactile switch as well.

There is a tactile white Alps variant but that's complicated Alps.  This keyboard looks relatively modern and I have a hard time believing they were still using complicated Alps for it.  But I've never even heard of a tactile simplified white Alps switch...

So what is this?  I guess I could open up a switch and have a look though with the keyboard being in such great condition I'm somewhat reluctant.

Could be Dampened White, Alps used those a fair bit during their last years.

[Blaise170]

Currently using this at work.

[a_ak57]

So I have a possibly loaded question, as I've never used an Alps type switch and am planning to build a board with them for work.  I'm aware that Matias switches are not as good as the actual Alps switches, but what level of difference are we talking about?  For reference I'll be using tactile switches and putting the Nexus sliders in them, and I'm trying to decide if I should just grab some Matias QCs and swap with those, or go for the more difficult/expensive option of tracking down a board with Orange or Salmon alps (which I'd also feel a bit bad for gutting as well as modding the housings).

Would Matias QC vs Salmon basically be like Cherry Brown vs Clear, or like Topre clone vs 55g Topre?

[tanvir175]

So I have a possibly loaded question, as I've never used an Alps type switch and am planning to build a board with them for work.  I'm aware that Matias switches are not as good as the actual Alps switches, but what level of difference are we talking about?  For reference I'll be using tactile switches and putting the Nexus sliders in them, and I'm trying to decide if I should just grab some Matias QCs and swap with those, or go for the more difficult/expensive option of tracking down a board with Orange or Salmon alps (which I'd also feel a bit bad for gutting as well as modding the housings).

Would Matias QC vs Salmon basically be like Cherry Brown vs Clear, or like Topre clone vs 55g Topre?

I'm not experienced in Alps enough to answer this with confidence but I came to say that Salmon alps aren't that expensive. Buying a full board might be, because shipping is insanely expensive for large boards, but on /r/mechmarket, I see Salmon Alps pop up on sale every now and then and they're around 30-40 for around 100. I've seen some go as high as 50 but haven't seen those ones sell so they probably eventually lower it down. Orange Alps aren't too expensive either with it being around 50-55 for around 100.

[a_ak57]

Huh, for some reason I was under the impression they cost a lot more, guess the few threads I scouted on mechmarket were just sellers asking for much more than normal (over $1 per orange for instance).

[tanvir175]

Huh, for some reason I was under the impression they cost a lot more, guess the few threads I scouted on mechmarket were just sellers asking for much more than normal (over $1 per orange for instance).

Maybe I just happened to see listings where the sellers were being very generous.

Most recent generous one I remember was an Alps64 PCB with SKCM Blue Alps soldered in already for $150. I'm pretty sad I missed it. I bought my SKCM Blue Alps alone for that price (87 of them).

[macclack]

Would Matias QC vs Salmon basically be like Cherry Brown vs Clear, or like Topre clone vs 55g Topre?

Going with Matias QC rather than salmon/orange Alps, or even dampened cream alps (which is probably a better comparison) is a trade-off in refinement, sound, and ease of serviceability for buying something new IMO. In terms of refinement and sound, salmon/orange Alps are like a 10 out of 10, dampened cream Alps are like a 7-8 and Matias are like a 5 or 6 out of 10. Matias switches tend to be a little scratchier and less refined than Alps and they have a unique double-tactile bump, one towards the top and one towards the bottom of the key press. Also Matias switches are higher pitched, whereas Alps switches are deeper, and fuller sounding.

All that being said, I love Matias QC switches, especially the newer ones because I'm pretty sure Matias has been modifying their tooling and lubing the newer ones. You can't really go wrong, but if you want the best, go with clean Alps with low mileage. You'll be spoiled tho.

[klennkellon]

I'm going to refurbish some Salmons that had their tactile leaf go bad. Matias's tactile leafs from their "Quiet Click" switches should work in Salmons housing right? I am pretty sure I am getting the re-tooled Matias too so may there be any benefit of swapping the slider as well?

Thanks.

[nguyenhimself]

This is salmon Alps, right? It's an M0115 with the serial # around 750,000.
Also: As of 2018, how heavy/stiff is the salmon Alps? If I find MX Black and MX Clear a tad too heavy for my fingers, will I be OK with salmon Alps?





Thanks.

[tanvir175]

This is salmon Alps, right? It's an M0115 with the serial # around 750,000.
Also: At os 2018, how heavy/stiff is the salmon Alps? If I find MX Black and MX Clear a tad too heavy for my fingers, will I be OK with salmon Alps?
Thanks.

Yup, those look like Salmon alps, the first picture being the lock switch. SPRiT lists them at 55g on his website. That's just under the 60g of MX Black's but I don't know if they're directly comparable. Since you have the board on hand, you should be able to test it.

Are you desoldering the switches or using the board, as is? If you plan on opening them up for cleaning (they look like they desperately need it) you can order springs that are compatible with alps and swap them out for lighter ones.