An STB BlackMagic 3D Voodoo2 12 MB, huh? I own one of those. Could use another just to find out what the big deal about SLI was, and hopefully the second one would have a passthrough cable and a SLI cable (if that isn't just a floppy drive cable).
Hell, if it's possible, I'd put 'em in with a Voodoo5 5500 I have lying around for maximum Glide compatibility and call it my 3dfxbox, but that would probably result in some nasty conflicts between V2 and V5.
(As for that daughter card connector, I can't say I recognize it. What's the shape? I don't think it's the VGA passthrough, or what appears to be a VESA feature connector on the V5 5500...)
Also, nice case, but it reminds me of how I've learned to loathe the AT form factor and the spaghetti wiring mess that ensues within-especially since my first PC that wasn't some sort of ancient CompuAdd IBM PC clone that had no chance of running Windows and used 5.25" floppies turned out to be a bottom-of-the-barrel build by my father. The AMD K6-2 350 wasn't bad or anything, but there was no excuse for the use of AT at the time since ATX was prevalent, and worse-the PC-Chips M598 mobo-has a truly AWFUL layout (such that I need to make some tight wiring runs in hard-to-reach spots and around expansion cards) and no AGP slot (to the point where I distinctly recall my father having to return an AGP graphics card after having forgotten and not doing the research in order to exchange it with a PCI card-an ATI Xpert 98, I think-that is now long gone because he apparently removed it before giving it back to me after I moved). Now the PSU seems to have some faulty wiring for the Molex drive cables and fans, such that I'm surprised the damn thing even works.
Small rant aside, on to sound cards: I'm rather glad that I have that AWE64 Gold ISA. Any game that uses its integrated wavetable MIDI sounds a hell of a lot better for music than FM synth. (Some of the earlier games don't, though-generally the sort that DO support the Gravis Ultrasound or Roland MT-32/CM-32/LAPC-I instead, neither of which I have.)
And, finally, back to the original topic: high mouse DPI isn't really necessary most of the time, but many games and apps have this problem with losing precision when you raise the mouse sensitivity. If you lower it so that the cursor/crosshair/etc. isn't skipping pixels every time you move the mouse enough for a single "count", but raise the DPI enough to compensate and put the overall sensitivity to a comfortable level, it makes precision work (or just long-distance headshots) that much easier.