You want to solder the teensy as close to the pcb as you can, basically so the teensy is laying on top of the pcb. Then you can solder through using the pins that came with the teensy, but dont use the plastic spacer, remove the pins from that, or you could use all the diode legs you trimmed from the diodes, or you could use no pins at all - but I wouldn't really recommend this unless you are pretty confident with your iron and have real fluxy solder.
I do pin-less on mine and flux is the key. I actually take a super fine tipped paint brush, put a tiny dab of solder flux on the tip and put a fine coating on the through-holes of both the Teensy and the PCB. Then I insert pins into the 4 corners to act as guides to keep everything aligned and then just fill the through holes with solder until it jumps the gap between the PCBs. It can be kind of hard to judge how much solder is needed to keep from getting ugly blobs bulging out on one side or the other so you will probably end up redoing at least a few of them.
The downside to pin-less is that I think you open yourself up to getting solder bridges between the PCBs a little easier. Also, forget ever trying to desolder the Teensy from the PCB ... the faces of the through-holes tend to solder together and you will never get that separated without destroying at least one of the PCBs.
Ok so some questions before Iruinbuild the board.
Diodes: Put them on the top side of the pcb right?
Teensy: Should I leave the black spacers on the pins that came with it, so it is slightly elevated from the pcb?
USB Connector: I got a female mini usb connector for putting on the pcb, pretty straight forward, but I also got the male end of a mini usb, what is that for?
Thanks :)
I created an imgur album when I built mine that should answer pretty much all your questions with pictures :thumb:
https://imgur.com/a/KEbUW (https://imgur.com/a/KEbUW)
Well I guess I will just wait until the guide is up because I have no clue what I am doing with the teensy.
As for the spacebar wire, I got a wire that has the bends in the middle. That doesn't seem to be the one I need for this board, anyone know a place where I can get a straight spacebar wire? Or just a cheap source of costar spacebar stabilizers?
Costar stabs always have the bend in the middle, to provide clearance for the switch when it moves. Cherry plate mount stabs are the ones that need to be bend-less, so that the wire doesn't bump into the plate every time you press the switch.
To program the Teensy, plug a USB cable from your PC into the Teensy, and press the button on the Teensy. Start the Teensy Loader software, and select the firmware .hex file to flash. Then press the icon to program the Teensy, then press the icon to reboot. Should be good to go after that.
I am attaching the "stock" JD40 firmware to this post.
Is the Easy AVR USB Keyboard Firmware and Keymapper (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0) program good to keymap this keyboard? or do you recommend something else? :)
Yes. The "stock" firmware I provided is compiled using hasu's highly regarded TMK firmware. But metalliqaz' Easy AVR is by far the easiest firmware for the beginner to use in creating a custom layout for the JD40.
When I use that easy-keymap software the hex files I save don't seem to work. None of the keys function
Are you using the latest beta release?
Ah shoot, I was using the standard release =(
EDIT: Beta version worked perfectly!
Thanks margo. I needed some clarification on the Teensy and USB plug soldering.So if I understand correct, I plug the cable into the USB port that I solder opposite of the teensy. What is the port on the Teensy doing? And what is the "plug" doing?Never mind, this makes much more sense in strict's pictures.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4Y1kiAi.jpg)
I tape the plug to the pcb on the right of the socket on the teensy - I do this as it's easier to solder to the fingers on the plug. then when I've soldered all 4 wires, I untape the plug from the pcb, and bend all the wires over and plug it into the teensy. if you line up the plug with those LED holes, the wire is just about the perfect length to be bent back on itself and not have too much there. I dunno if that makes sense :)
It's worth noting - the plug strict uses is different to the one we supply, the one we supply is best done the way I have shown as if you plug it into the teensy, the fingers will be facing down towards the pcb and you will not be able to solder them.
I blame you! The silkscreen is on the wrong side!!
you cool bastard with your panovise, someone needs to hook me up with some proper tools.
I don't blame either of you. So there :)
What I like is how some people now build custom keyboards and put the diodes on the wrong side as they've seen people do it with the 40's but not read why that's happened. leading to diodes being in the way of stabs, etc. etc. etc.
Should be a new thread: Post your tool collection :))
Anyways, appreciate you posting that imgur album of yours margo. I'm going to keep cranking away at my JD40 tonight :D.
Should be a new thread: Post your tool collection :))
Anyways, appreciate you posting that imgur album of yours margo. I'm going to keep cranking away at my JD40 tonight :D.
Looks great, I have whites on my 40% also. Where did you get the MX lock switch?
I love build logs, more power to you Cpt :D
Here you go. Do it yourself build logs!
(http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Logs-Classic-Edition-Tin/dp/B004S6EHFQ)
If the silkscreen was on the right side of the pcb we wouldn't have a peeping JD on all JD40's...
jdcarpe: creepin' while ya sleepin'
P5=========|---
|-----
P3=========|---
P2=========|-----
P1=========|---
Are you going with a stock layout or something different?I'm not sure yet. Maybe setup a layout based on my Kishsaver's layout.
2) Make sure you solder on the right side. The pads on one side will be larger and take heat better. On the JD40, that means you solder the diodes on the side on the silkscreen. Even though the diodes have to be inserted on the non-silkscreen side. Look:
2) Make sure you solder on the right side. The pads on one side will be larger and take heat better. On the JD40, that means you solder the diodes on the side on the silkscreen. Even though the diodes have to be inserted on the non-silkscreen side. Look:
For what it's worth, when I solder my diodes on the "opposite" side of the plate (so they aren't between the pcb and the plate.) I put the solder on the same side as the diode so that if I ever need to replace on it's pretty easy.
I don't find it to be any more difficult in soldering and it makes repair work significantly easier.
Just an alternative.
That doesn't work on this board due to a lack of pad on the back side.
Welp....I'm sure you all already know, but I'm officially a moron. I accidentally soldered the teensy to the wrong side and I couldn't get it off. Gotta wait for a new PCB to come in so I can try and finish it then.
It wouldn't be a CBA build if it weren't botched.
Welp....I'm sure you all already know, but I'm officially a moron. I accidentally soldered the teensy to the wrong side and I couldn't get it off. Gotta wait for a new PCB to come in so I can try and finish it then.PCB is still salvageable.
Welp....I'm sure you all already know, but I'm officially a moron. I accidentally soldered the teensy to the wrong side and I couldn't get it off. Gotta wait for a new PCB to come in so I can try and finish it then.PCB is still salvageable.
You can cut through all the teensy pins with a sidecutter. it's brutal but it works. Then just remove them. Alternatively just cut up the teensy.
You have a vise, you could get a hacksaw and saw through the teensy pins.
I'm just sayin' those PCBs are nice. it'd be a shame to abandon it now.
Welp....I'm sure you all already know, but I'm officially a moron. I accidentally soldered the teensy to the wrong side and I couldn't get it off. Gotta wait for a new PCB to come in so I can try and finish it then.PCB is still salvageable.
You can cut through all the teensy pins with a sidecutter. it's brutal but it works. Then just remove them. Alternatively just cut up the teensy.
You have a vise, you could get a hacksaw and saw through the teensy pins.
I'm just sayin' those PCBs are nice. it'd be a shame to abandon it now.
Looks to me like there are no pins. Just sat the teensy right on the 40 PCB and filled the holes in with solder.
PCB is still salvageable.
You can cut through all the teensy pins with a sidecutter. it's brutal but it works. Then just remove them. Alternatively just cut up the teensy.
You have a vise, you could get a hacksaw and saw through the teensy pins.
I'm just sayin' those PCBs are nice. it'd be a shame to abandon it now.
Also, if you want to make another attempt to remove the teensy, I recommend starting at one corner, adding heat to the pads in that area, and gently prying the teensy away from the PCB at that corner. Then just move further away with the heat, continuing to gently pry the teensy away from the PCB.
You can borrow my hakko 808 before I sell it. Should get the solder right out of those holes.PCB is still salvageable.
You can cut through all the teensy pins with a sidecutter. it's brutal but it works. Then just remove them. Alternatively just cut up the teensy.
You have a vise, you could get a hacksaw and saw through the teensy pins.
I'm just sayin' those PCBs are nice. it'd be a shame to abandon it now.
I soldered it pinless per margo baggin's suggestion. Only put pins in the corners. I couldn't get the Teensy off the PCB.Also, if you want to make another attempt to remove the teensy, I recommend starting at one corner, adding heat to the pads in that area, and gently prying the teensy away from the PCB at that corner. Then just move further away with the heat, continuing to gently pry the teensy away from the PCB.
Tried that last night. Didn't work. Spent 40 minutes trying to do that with nothing to show. :(.
You can borrow my hakko 808 before I sell it. Should get the solder right out of those holes.
1) Where could I find such a plug? I'm getting my diodes and socket from mouser, and if I could order one from there I'd be thrilled.
2) Also, what kind of wire would you guys recommend for connecting the plug to the pcb?
I think this is what he means?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O
Or you can always use the end of a USB Mini B cable
They are on Mouser but it won't let me off the UK version. Can you find any of these part numbers?
798-UX40-MB-5P
798-UX40A-MB-5P
798-UX20-MB-5P
I think this is what he means?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E1JMK0O
Or you can always use the end of a USB Mini B cableThey are on Mouser but it won't let me off the UK version. Can you find any of these part numbers?
798-UX40-MB-5P
798-UX40A-MB-5P
798-UX20-MB-5P
Now I'm confused. Are we looking for the plug for the teensy or the other plug that jd showed? Because none of those look like the two plugs I have.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Iml3vvj.jpg)
Does anyone have high quality images of an unpopulated JD40 PCB?
I'm just interested at looking at the traces on the PCB.Does anyone have high quality images of an unpopulated JD40 PCB?
Somewhat of an odd request. Why do you ask?
Starting to look real good...Show Image(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/31/12f20054a385d95ffaa078f1638cd4ad.jpg)
Need to put some caps on this to figure out a layout. This board needs more arrows though.
I'm just interested at looking at the traces on the PCB.There aren't many traces under the diodes so there's not much point finding an unpopulated pic, there aren't enough interruptions to lose track of anything.
I only looked on my phone, when I get to my computer I'll take a look and the pictures so far might be good enough!
There's a lot of good info in here, for better or worse...
There's a lot of good info in here, for better or worse...
Glad you thought the build log was helpful. And I made all the mistakes so you don't have to :D. Hopefully we'll see yours built up soon enough!
Nice build! Did you end up using any clips/spring/stabs? Stuff like this?
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-plate-mounted-stabilizer-clips-2pcs.html
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-stabilizer-spring-for-spacebar.html
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert-2pcs.html
Nice build! Did you end up using any clips/spring/stabs? Stuff like this?
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/cherry-mx-plate-mounted-stabilizer-clips-2pcs.html
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-stabilizer-spring-for-spacebar.html
http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index.php/products/keyboard-parts/cherry-mx-keycap-stabilizer-insert-2pcs.html
Yes that's what CPT used, the JD40 only supports costar stabs.