I would still say some regulator is required since there might be spikes when pluging or unpluging.
This looks great - compatible yet better as it has more pins :thumb:
I think this is a great idea! Would be interested in a couple of these, depending of the price of course..
This is excellent! I'm definitely interested in a buy for these.
It might be equally interesting to match the pro-micro layout of pins, USB connector, and such for direct retrofitability with the Pro Micro.
Pin layout is identical, it can be used as a direct replacement for a Pro Micro. It just has a couple extra pins along the bottom for hand wired builds :D .
Pin layout is identical, it can be used as a direct replacement for a Pro Micro. It just has a couple extra pins along the bottom for hand wired builds :D .
Awesome, but if the USB location is different (top mounted vs center mounted), it could be an issue for existing cases. For instance, there are a number of Lets Split cases that may not be compatible with this configuration.
Of course, center-mount should be the default because the space savings is fantastic, but it may be worth having a second configuration that has the USB-C port top mounted just for retrofitability purposes.
Alternatively, the cases may have holes large enough that it doesn't matter. In which case IGNORE ME.
These look super fun! Will these be flashable with dfu?
I really, really like this! Super excited for this. Do you know if it works?
edit: I am a fool, you haven't tested it yet.
I really, really like this! Super excited for this. Do you know if it works?
edit: I am a fool, you haven't tested it yet.
Indeed, I haven't tested it yet. I have ordered prototype boards for rev 0 (not the latest rev B; I accidentally sent the wrong gerbers to the manufacturer :))). There are only small differences between revisions, so if rev 0 works I'm 90% sure rev B will too.
After that I'll need to order components and assemble it and upload a bootloader and stuff before I can do any thorough testing.
But as I said earlier I'm very busy at the moment with work and getting XDA Oblique ready for GB. I'll get around to it eventually though ;D
Any room for a reset button?second this! it will be very useful
Yes please. ALso are you considering support for all variants of type-c because Macbooks have certain issues with resistance on data lines.
Any room for a reset button?
Is there a Gerber file that includes max number of goldfishes in 100 x 100mm?
which version of ATMEGA32U4 should I get? Is it ATMEGA32U4-MU?
And what other components?
Designator | Package | Value |
C1-C5,C10 | 0402 | 0u1 |
C6 | 0603 | 4u7 |
C7,C8 | 0402 | 22p |
C9 | 0402 | 1u |
J1 | Hirose CX70M-24P1 | |
R1,R2 | 0402 | 5k1 |
R3 | 0402 | 10k |
R4,R5 | 0402 | 22R |
U1 | QFN-44-EP | ATmega32U4-MU |
X1 | Epson_FA238 | 16MHz 18pF |
D1 | PowerDI-123 | Schottky |
Here's a quick BOM:
Designator Package Value C1-C5,C10 0402 0u1 C6 0603 4u7 C7,C8 0402 22p C9 0402 1u J1 Hirose CX70M-24P1 R1,R2 0402 5k1 R3 0402 10k R4,R5 0402 22R U1 QFN-44-EP ATmega32U4-MU X1 Epson_FA238 16MHz 18pF D1 PowerDI-123 Schottky
Here's a quick BOM:
Designator Package Value C1-C5,C10 0402 0u1 C6 0603 4u7 C7,C8 0402 22p C9 0402 1u J1 Hirose CX70M-24P1 R1,R2 0402 5k1 R3 0402 10k R4,R5 0402 22R U1 QFN-44-EP ATmega32U4-MU X1 Epson_FA238 16MHz 18pF D1 PowerDI-123 Schottky
is this for rev B? Any plans for extra components in future ver? I want to grab those components in 1 shipment :p
Are there any alternatives usb type-c connector?The type-C connector is this project's whole raison d'être. There's plenty of pro-micro/clones with micro-B connectors. If you need more pins, get a Teensy.
sorry i wasn't clear. I mean if there're other type-c connectors that are recommended :) because the default one is hard to source for meAre there any alternatives usb type-c connector?The type-C connector is this project's whole raison d'être. There's plenty of pro-micro/clones with micro-B connectors. If you need more pins, get a Teensy.
But anyway, USB-C is the future, maaan, and all you need for compatibility is an A-to-C cable. The actual protocol is still USB 2.0, I think.
Since this project is apparently shut down, I hope you don't mind me posting this other board that does the same thing (for those who had this thread on their watch-list): Elite-C (https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-arduino-compatible-atmega32u4).
Since this project is apparently shut down, I hope you don't mind me posting this other board that does the same thing (for those who had this thread on their watch-list): Elite-C (https://keeb.io/products/elite-c-usb-c-pro-micro-replacement-arduino-compatible-atmega32u4).
The Elite-C is nice, I got a couple for my Quefrency. I just wish it was cheaper - $18 _on sale_ seems overpriced. It's even more expensive than the QMK Proton C which has STM32... (Although not available nearly anywhere atm.)
I might look into having a few of these made,get them priced and perhaps try an IC.
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IIRC I did some back-of-the-envelope calculations back when I was working on this and if you hit high enough MOQs the manufacturing cost should be around $8-$10 (don't quote me on that though). If you're serious about running a GB I can have a look at changing the pinout at the bottom to match the Elite-C if I have time.
Just bear in mind that I haven't done any prototyping or testing on this board; I didn't want to spend money on a project I wasn't really interested in any more. So test it first before running a big GB ;D
Thanks for the reply! That would be great. I'm generally profficient in electronics but I haven't done any PCB prototyping yet so would appreciate any help you could provide.
I'd love to run the GB - if there's still interest of course. Trouble is I'm in EU and the vast majority of the mk scene seems to be in the US, so not sure how many orders I could get. Plus PCB manufacturing is probably more expensive here. Will see about that.
Sent from my OnePlus 6T with a rubbish gimmicky bloody annoying unreliable in-display fingerprint reader using Tapatalk
Is the rev C production ready?
* The current version: version 3, has a bug that makes auto-detection of Master/Slave on split keyboards not work. Previous versions worked, and the bug is supposed to be fixed in version 4.
Goldfish should support this auto-detection with revision B onwards.
I made this BOM at Mouser. Could somebody be so kind to verify?Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/46dA4Bn.png)
They mentioned on off the clack they did find a software fix for this.It's a workaround, not a fix. The workaround disables suspend-mode, and a USB device that does not suspend is not USB compliant.
The schematic is referencing goldfish-rescue. But it's not included in the repo.
Do I need a hot air gun for the atmega32U4 QFN? Or is it easier to switch it to QFP?
first time making the BOM list..no confidence
please give me some feedback on the BOM list. thank you!!
Samsung CL05B104KO5NNNC
Samsung CL05A475MP5NRNC
Samsung CL05C220JB5NNNC
Samsung CL05A105KQ5NNNC
UNIOHM 0402WGF5101TCE
UNIOHM 0402WGF1002TCE
UNIOHM 0402WGF220JTCE
Schottky DFLS1100Q-7
Microchip ATMEGA32U-MU
Epson Timing FA-238 16.0000MB-C3
Hirose CX70M-24P1
... atmega is never going to generate enough heat to really need thermal relief.BTW. I noticed on the Teensy 2.0 that there is a ground pad on the bottom with 16 vias spaced in a grid connecting it to the top under the µC. I suppose that was meant for cooling, but maybe it is superfluous.
BTW. I noticed on the Teensy 2.0 that there is a ground pad on the bottom with 16 vias spaced in a grid connecting it to the top under the µC. I suppose that was meant for cooling, but maybe it is superfluous.Maybe it was meant to allow soldering with iron (instead of hot air or oven). I have seen a video of heating the centre pad from the other side of PCB. The idea was that heat will travel through vias to the centre pad. I did not try it myself though. I tried other approach: I placed a "huge" through hole pad under the QFN centre pad so that I can reach to it directly from the other side (using a tip thin enough to fit into the through hole pad).
... atmega is never going to generate enough heat to really need thermal relief.BTW. I noticed on the Teensy 2.0 that there is a ground pad on the bottom with 16 vias spaced in a grid connecting it to the top under the µC. I suppose that was meant for cooling, but maybe it is superfluous.
BTW. I noticed on the Teensy 2.0 that there is a ground pad on the bottom with 16 vias spaced in a grid connecting it to the top under the µC. I suppose that was meant for cooling, but maybe it is superfluous.Maybe it was meant to allow soldering with iron (instead of hot air or oven). I have seen a video of heating the centre pad from the other side of PCB. The idea was that heat will travel through vias to the centre pad. I did not try it myself though. I tried other approach: I placed a "huge" through hole pad under the QFN centre pad so that I can reach to it directly from the other side (using a tip thin enough to fit into the through hole pad).
Hirose CX70M-24P1 USB Type-C connector could be replaced by Hirose CX90M-16P.
CX90M-16P does not have TX and RX pins that USB 2.0 does not require. And also no through hole pins, wider pin pitch.
Less pins helps you to decrease manufacturing cost too.
Which soldering tip do you recommend for the usb c connector?
I have a T12-BC2 but it might be too big.
Hello!
I came here from google, I like how small this board is and that itll not be that expensive at the quantity I want to make (like 10), but before I go ahead and buy all the components (kinda sad that its not for sale), one thing is bugging me: How did you solder the through hole parts of the connector to 1.6 mm FR4? The pins looked really short to me, so I downloaded the STEP files and measured only 0.33 mm between the SMD pin bottom and the bottom of the pins... The Hirose website says max PCB thickness is 0.8 mm, so how does that work? ???
I would highly appreciate any photos of finished ones... Pretty sure the pins dont reach the other side! Sorry for the trouble...
Yeah, I do know that solder will in fact wick and will reach them. But is that good practice? I already ordered everything, just curious at this point.
Hirose CX70M-24P1 USB Type-C connector could be replaced by Hirose CX90M-16P.second this! single side SMT would decrease the cost!
CX90M-16P does not have TX and RX pins that USB 2.0 does not require. And also no through hole pins, wider pin pitch.
Less pins helps you to decrease manufacturing cost too.
I checked the ShiroMicro's schema (https://github.com/elfmimi/MMCProMicro) yesterday. It's pretty basic in comparison. It has a diode for master/slave detection and a mid-mounted port. No additional pins, no voltage regulator, no LEDs and no over-current protection.The ShiroMicro's type C mount looks interesting too.
One interesting detail though: to enable the RAW pin, you'd need to bridge a solder-jumper which shorts it to VBUS. Another jumper shorts PD6 to ground - for hard master/slave assignment maybe?
BTW. The red "Uzu edition" is for the Uzu42 keyboard. The designer has also shown a ARM-based Pro Micro clone.
Is there a way to test if the goldfish is fully working? Maybe I should write a small arduino program to test each pin? or does it already exist?
Another newbie question, what are the benefits of using a PowerDI123 verses 1N5819 sod-123?
no over-current protection.
You're right. My bad. The symbol looked too much like a resistor's.no over-current protection.
It looks like there's a fuse in ShiroMicro. Or is it something different?
I'm looking to order a whole bunch of PCBs and components for these. Anything I need to watch out for?
Ok, so the PCBs came in and the clone connector I linked above sits perfectly. That means you can order all components from lcsc and don't have to go hunting for the specific hirose model.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200813/4435313601a1075ce5b74cfbdaf083c3.jpg)
Progress report:
I missed some components when ordering, so I'll add a full list of components for the revision C later. The 0603 footprint for C6 has also been changed back to an 0402.
Also I should've gotten a stencil with the PCBs and some solder paste.
Ordered the missing components because i needed some mosfets anyways. luckily i took notes before i abanded the project a few months ago. :thumb:
I'll happily share the exact parts I ordered once can confirm them working :)
I'll happily share the exact parts I ordered once can confirm them working :)
...
I would eventually like to order ~50-100 for my little on-line shop I started in December.
...
Ordered the missing components because i needed some mosfets anyways. luckily i took notes before i abanded the project a few months ago. :thumb:
Just got back to this thread after almost two years, because Elite-C expensive... :) I also found the alternative connector at LCSC, it's great that you confirmed that it works correctly. I'm a bit uneasy about the low stock (only 35 atm) - hope it's not discontinued. I want to see how much will LSCPCB assembly cost, I would eventually like to order ~50-100 for my little on-line shop I started in December. I offer good value through-hole kits and also Pro Micro based kits, so having a cheaper controller module with USB-C would be great.
Do you have a BOM at LCSC? I'll be watching with interest, hope you can finish your boards and confirm they work correctly :)
Thanks!
Ordered the missing components because i needed some mosfets anyways. luckily i took notes before i abanded the project a few months ago. :thumb:
Just got back to this thread after almost two years, because Elite-C expensive... :) I also found the alternative connector at LCSC, it's great that you confirmed that it works correctly. I'm a bit uneasy about the low stock (only 35 atm) - hope it's not discontinued. I want to see how much will LSCPCB assembly cost, I would eventually like to order ~50-100 for my little on-line shop I started in December. I offer good value through-hole kits and also Pro Micro based kits, so having a cheaper controller module with USB-C would be great.
Do you have a BOM at LCSC? I'll be watching with interest, hope you can finish your boards and confirm they work correctly :)
Thanks!
Where can I buy your version?
is it https://shop.beekeeb.com/product/goldfish-rev-c-open-source-pro-micro-replacement/ or https://shop.tokas.co.uk/product/comet-usb-c-microcontroller ?
I can add some TVS diodes if transients do end up being a problem, but I doubt it's needed.
What's the use of the R6 10k resistor?
Great job, thanks for continuing with the project! How is the availability and the price of ATmega32u4 these days? I'm not sure it still makes sense to use it though considering the RP2040 will have official QMK support very soon (or perhaps already has it? Struggling to keep track) and costs $1.30 (plus ~$1 for a QSPI flash)...