NEC APC-H412 review (NEC blue ovals)

[chyros]

After many many requests to review blue ovals, here it finally it; an NEC APC-H412, with Cindy's favourite switches! Hope you enjoy!

[ThoughtArtist]

Nice. It's such a lovely looking switch. I love the modular design. So cool. This is yet another design that emphasizes how pathetic a majority of modern keyboards have become.

I wonder how a linearised version of these would compare with the linearised Black Alps. I think I'm becoming a linear switch ****. I just can't get over how great my linearised "piss yellow" Dell At-101 feels. I just become one with it and its yellowy piss glory.

[chyros]

Nice. It's such a lovely looking switch. I love the modular design. So cool. This is yet another design that emphasizes how pathetic a majority of modern keyboards have become.

I wonder how a linearised version of these would compare with the linearised Black Alps. I think I'm becoming a linear switch ****. I just can't get over how great my linearised "piss yellow" Dell At-101 feels. I just become one with it and its yellowy piss glory.

You can linearise these I guess, but it would be irreversible. You can also get NOS linear switches (the piss ones), I think I got mine from Taobao.

[klennkellon]

Hmm. I guess you could call these "beefy montereys" ?

[rowdy]

Sorry, I haven't had time to watch the video yet, so please forgive me if you answered this in the video.

The switches seem to me to be very fragile - it doesn't take much to break the little rivets or whatever that hold them together.  This happened to one of mine, and I ended up with a little pile of parts.  I eventually replaced the switch with a new (to me) one.

If you wanted to linearise the switches (which I don't), can you actually put the switches back together?

[chyros]

Hmm. I guess you could call these "beefy montereys" ?

Yes, actually! That's not too far off .

Sorry, I haven't had time to watch the video yet, so please forgive me if you answered this in the video.

The switches seem to me to be very fragile - it doesn't take much to break the little rivets or whatever that hold them together.  This happened to one of mine, and I ended up with a little pile of parts.  I eventually replaced the switch with a new (to me) one.

If you wanted to linearise the switches (which I don't), can you actually put the switches back together?

XMIT also broke the rivets on several switches of his, that's how I knew how to pull the keycaps safely. It's really no problem if you're aware they're fragile.

As for linearising it; that should be really easy actually, you wouldn't even need to desolder the switches. Because the design is so modular in nature, all you need to do is take the rivets off the clicker compartment (a hobby knife is perfect) and take out the click leaf, it's that simple. Of course, the broken rivets mean it's a one-way mod. Not saying you SHOULD linearise these as I haven't tried a board with them in, just that you could if you wanted to.

[ThoughtArtist]

Hmm. I guess you could call these "beefy montereys" ?

Yes, actually! That's not too far off .

Sorry, I haven't had time to watch the video yet, so please forgive me if you answered this in the video.

The switches seem to me to be very fragile - it doesn't take much to break the little rivets or whatever that hold them together.  This happened to one of mine, and I ended up with a little pile of parts.  I eventually replaced the switch with a new (to me) one.

If you wanted to linearise the switches (which I don't), can you actually put the switches back together?

XMIT also broke the rivets on several switches of his, that's how I knew how to pull the keycaps safely. It's really no problem if you're aware they're fragile.

As for linearising it; that should be really easy actually, you wouldn't even need to desolder the switches. Because the design is so modular in nature, all you need to do is take the rivets off the clicker compartment (a hobby knife is perfect) and take out the click leaf, it's that simple. Of course, the broken rivets mean it's a one-way mod. Not saying you SHOULD linearise these as I haven't tried a board with them in, just that you could if you wanted to.

If it's one way then I wouldn't. I didn't realize at first that you had to break off rivets.

I thought if it was reversible, like in the Alps, then it would be interesting to try.

Anyway, I just found a Zenith ZKB-2 and I will see how it compares with the linearised Dell. I'm re-watching your review of it. 

[rowdy]

Hmm. I guess you could call these "beefy montereys" ?

Yes, actually! That's not too far off .

Sorry, I haven't had time to watch the video yet, so please forgive me if you answered this in the video.

The switches seem to me to be very fragile - it doesn't take much to break the little rivets or whatever that hold them together.  This happened to one of mine, and I ended up with a little pile of parts.  I eventually replaced the switch with a new (to me) one.

If you wanted to linearise the switches (which I don't), can you actually put the switches back together?

XMIT also broke the rivets on several switches of his, that's how I knew how to pull the keycaps safely. It's really no problem if you're aware they're fragile.

As for linearising it; that should be really easy actually, you wouldn't even need to desolder the switches. Because the design is so modular in nature, all you need to do is take the rivets off the clicker compartment (a hobby knife is perfect) and take out the click leaf, it's that simple. Of course, the broken rivets mean it's a one-way mod. Not saying you SHOULD linearise these as I haven't tried a board with them in, just that you could if you wanted to.

'Twas from XMIT that my replacement switch was sourced

[Aran.E99]

bolt/screw modding a model M is one thing, what about screw modding a switch . it could be done but you would need a 0.5mm screw if not smaller xD

[chyros]

bolt/screw modding a model M is one thing, what about screw modding a switch . it could be done but you would need a 0.5mm screw if not smaller xD

Yeah good luck with that xD .

[Aran.E99]

bolt/screw modding a model M is one thing, what about screw modding a switch . it could be done but you would need a 0.5mm screw if not smaller xD

Yeah good luck with that xD .

If the rivets were bigger I would use some tech deck screws xD

[chyros]

bolt/screw modding a model M is one thing, what about screw modding a switch . it could be done but you would need a 0.5mm screw if not smaller xD

Yeah good luck with that xD .

If the rivets were bigger I would use some tech deck screws xD

I''m sure someone could come up with some brilliant mod for these if they were more mainstream and people could afford more to experiment with them xD .

[Aran.E99]

bolt/screw modding a model M is one thing, what about screw modding a switch . it could be done but you would need a 0.5mm screw if not smaller xD

Yeah good luck with that xD .

If the rivets were bigger I would use some tech deck screws xD

I''m sure someone could come up with some brilliant mod for these if they were more mainstream and people could afford more to experiment with them xD .

Im so tempted to but I know that it will break and you can't buy ovals xD

Can you imagine that: 102 * 4 = 408 screws and 408 tiny precise holes drilled xD

[rowdy]

Finally watched the review - another great rundown of the keyboard

Your has a PS/2 plug?

My APC-H4100E has an AT plug.  I have successfully used an AT to PS/2 adapter, and an Id Innovations PS/2 to USB converter to use my NEC on my Mac.  I figure if the keyboard works in that situation it will probably work anywhere.

TechKeys used to sell the Id Innovations adapters, but they are not listed any more.

[chyros]

Yes, both have a PS/2 plug. Which makes sense as the 412 seems to be the successor of the 410 .