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What keyboard do I want? I'm about a decade behind.

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N8N:

--- Quote from: Maledicted on Tue, 04 May 2021, 11:12:23 ---Congratulations on a board you like even more than your old Filco. I can't take credit for recommending Bobas, I have never tried them myself. I haven't found enough of a reason to try the more boutique MX tactiles, with my tastes.


--- Quote from: N8N on Tue, 04 May 2021, 07:32:11 ---You're right, things have come a LONG way in the last few years apparently!  It's too bad this isn't a "mainstream" switch that you can just buy in a new Filco, Leopold, etc. keyboard like the typical MX Black/Blue/Brown, but it deserves to be.

--- End quote ---

I think most of the best switches available are not commonly available in OEM boards, unfortunately. Are there even any boards that offer box jades yet? Clicky box boards are almost always box white, for some inexplicable reason. I think most people looking at companies like Filco and Leopold are probably still predominantly first time mechanical users who haven't even tried the 3 major switch types yet, much less have any inclination of which switches they may prefer, just like the gaming board brands ... just to a lesser degree. If Cherry switches sell, than those are what the big name OEMs will keep putting in their boards.

If you do use that new board for a period of time, and then use the SGI board for a period of time, and update this thread with your impressions, I may be motivated to give MX boutiques more of a chance.

I have a bunch of Matias boards you could try, if you're near Wisconsin. I think this V80 I'm using right now might be the only one that still has unmolested dampened tactiles in it though.

--- End quote ---

I appreciate that but not even close - I'm just outside DC, near UMCP.  At this point I'm so busy I couldn't really do anything with this anyway, I didn't even play with the sticky keys last night :/  So far I'm enjoying this board however.

N8N:
So I have a dumb question.  I was able to remove and reinstall the stabilizers for my space bar and added a little lube to them as well as the outsides of the posts of the space bar.  Before doing so, I also ran a X-Acto chisel type blade over the keycap posts to make sure there were no little molding anomalies, but I don't think there are, I think the keycap posts are just dragging ever so slightly on the Cherry style stabilizers.  After doing this and working the space bar a few times, it is operating normally.  However, I am trying to do the same with the red numpad enter key, and I find that I'm in a corner - I cannot get the keyswitch out with the stabilizers (Cherry) in place, but I can't remove the stabilizer without removing the keyswitch.  Any help?  I'm thinking I may need to make or purchase a different switch puller; none of the ones I have will sneak in between the switch and stabilizer to hit the latches.

Am I thinking right?

Any advice appreciated, I can always put the grey enter keys back on but a) that's less awesome and b) if I want to experiment with different springs etc. or band-aid mod the stabilizers I'll need to pull that switch.  If anything, if I wanted to put heavier springs on only some keys, it would be the space bar first, then the rest of the stabilized keys second...

I'm still playing with this, I'm soooo close, I now have everything but one key working great and it looks awesome too.

Leslieann:

--- Quote from: N8N on Fri, 07 May 2021, 16:01:51 ---I cannot get the keyswitch out with the stabilizers (Cherry) in place, but I can't remove the stabilizer without removing the keyswitch.  Any help?  I'm thinking I may need to make or purchase a different switch puller; none of the ones I have will sneak in between the switch and stabilizer to hit the latches.

--- End quote ---

That's something I've seen on all 3 of my hot swap boards.
Switches were designed to settle into place in the plate then get soldered, hot swap (because it's a hack) actually changes this relationship and they now share alignment duties, which they were never designed for. The switches become over constrained, too many things pushing and tugging them this way and that in ways not designed for, this causes them to get twisted and wedged.

They can get stuck in the plate like you're experiencing or yank out every time to pull a keycap, and on light springs I've even seen the switches themselves bind up even without stabs or key cap installed. I have switches that work 100% perfect with my super light springs out of the board but no matter what switch I put into certain spots on the board they will occasionally bind, they work perfect anywhere else, just not those spots. It will work perfect in TAB, move it to UP arrow and it binds, move it over to F, works perfect again. You're not running such light springs so you have (a lot) less problems, but it's not you, it's the board, specifically the nature of hot swap. Tooling or pcb design may be aggravating the issue but it comes down to the hot swaps over constraining something not designed for it.

A better puller will help, but it also may not.
What I found was in most cases if a switch is stuck in the plate, move onto a different one and come back. If working on just one, set the puller down, move the board around then try again. Sometimes you just need to hold the tool in relation to the board just that teensy bit different and suddenly it pops out. Other times you can try multiple times and then you just gotta rip the darn thing out. It rarely does much if any damage to the switch, it's just the little teeth that grab the plate getting a little rounded off, they were probably a little too aggressive to begin with.


Glad you got your board dialed in, it will get there the rest of the way, just be a little more patient. Think of it this way, you're starting to see why the pre-builds are built how they are, getting this sort of feel and precision takes some effort.

N8N:
So I figured it out, I was able to pull the switch with a right angle pick since I couldn't get a purpose made keyswitch puller in there.  I lubed everything but that one switch is still a little sticky - but everything else is fantastic.  Yeah, it would have been nice to have just bought a keyboard that was what I wanted already assembled, but that apparently wasn't an option!

As this is breaking in it's getting better however so I am assuming that I just need to keep using it, worst case I will disassemble again and investigate.  Space bar is perfect now after a couple hours of use (obviously that one gets more use than the numpad enter, although I do use that one at least once a day, when I unlock bitlocker in the morning)

blur410:
In my newest board I had the exact opposite problem, the plate doesn't grab onto the switches tight enough. Makes the switches too easy to remove. Sad to hear you dislike the XT layout though, would gladly take it off your hands if you don't want it. ;)

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