Welcome to Geekhack. I have explicitly written this article with the assumption that the reader has no technical background rather than the other way around. How do I split a Kinesis contour (advantage) keyboard into two discrete halves? Any questions you may have, don't hesitate to PM me or anyone else on this fabulous forum site, i'm sure they will be more than happy to help you.
Quick demonstration video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDR0xroSR6s)
Project progress in that order (1)=completed, (0)=incomplete:
(1)#1-Split Kinesis Contour Classic into two halves
(1)#2-Cherry MX Black's to replace membrane squishies, :smash:
(0)#3-Place IBM trackpoint between keys 'Enter' & 'Space' used for scrolling.
(0)#4-Integrate trackpoint in the center of keys, 'H-J-N-M'.
(0)#5-Fiberglass molds to replace the original keyboard plastic housing.
(0)#6-Brackets to bolt both halves to chair armrests respectively using welded steel stock.
Skill prerequisites:
- Fluent with your soldering technique but if not, don't sweat it. Here is a phenomenal youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4) showing the proper procedure. If your iron is temp controlled, a good rule of thumb is starting at 750F and increase until there is proper wetting within 1-2 seconds using a flux pen or paste. The idea is the run "hot" 800F and get the job done as fast as possible "1 second is ideal" rather than using a lower temperature such as 650F and making contact for twice as long. Regardless, there will be more heat saturation at lower temps because the iron has to make contact for longer periods of time (don't want, this will destroy precious silicone in the chips and diodes) than higher temps for less time (this is a good thing.) The bigger the soldering surface, the hotter it needs to be. One more thing, the more oxidized and less wet-ability the iron is (solder doesn't stick,) the higher temp you will have to use to compensate for the heat losses. So save yourself the hassle and buy another tip. The reason behind this is the tin coating on the tip has worn off possibly from being used for any purpose other than lightly touching surfaces and/or has not been "tinned" at all times and has oxidized as a result, keep your iron tinned before and after use, especially when not in use for long periods of time. Ensure soldering iron tip is not contacting components longer than three seconds while soldering, wait 5 seconds and repeat instead.
- Check resistance/continuity/ohms (same thing) with DVOM (http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3555/multimeter2.jpg)
- Strip 26AWG wire insulation by hand with razor blade. (One trick i've learned is touch the tip of the iron on the very end of unstripped insulated wire and the heat will make the PVC crawl up the wire, don't breathe in the fumes, plastic is much worse than flux)
- Patience with a Dremel and/or box cutter.
Tool list:
- DVOM (http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3555/multimeter2.jpg) (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) 'A pair of alligator clips that screw onto the leads will make life much easier.' ($10)
- Hot glue gun and glue sticks of high temperature. You probably will not be impressed how fast the low temp stuff cools down, especially for fastening shielded wires. 0_0 ($5)
- Soldering iron with tip preferably not much wider than 1.6mm (1/16") with brass wire tip cleaner (http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?PID=749&Page=1)
- Dremel, box-cutter, or any tool to accomplish cutting and sculpting hard material (ex. plastic, fiberglass)
- Antistatic wrist strap (http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9683/antistaticwriststrap.jpg) - Static Electricity is the No.1 cause of damage to semiconductor parts. You should always "ground" yourself on something with uninsulated metal or use an antistatic wrist strap or some other method of preventing ElectroStatic Discharge (ESD) when working on your keyboard to prevent damage to semiconductors such as transistors, chips, and diodes that reside on the MCU.
Parts list:
- Kinesis Contour Essential/Classic/Professional (AT\PS/2) or Advantage/Advantage Pro (USB) 'board. ($100-$200+ on eBay, click here (http://www.ebay.com/sch/Keyboards-Mice-Input-/3676/i.html?_nkw=kinesis&_catref=1&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282))
- Male to Male 15-pin D-Sub VGA extension cable (http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/5571/vgam2m.jpg), = or > Fifteen Feet. ($10)
- (2) 15-pin D-Sub VGA female connectors (http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/5629/femalevgaconnector.jpg). (RS part #276-1502, $4)
- VGA video card brackets or cut a dual VGA bracket (http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/3584/dualvgabracket.jpg) in half. (<$4)
- (2) Metal or plastic strain reliefs (One place you can find these, devices I used to prevent cables from pulling loose, is take a tiny piece of VGA cable to your local hardware store, look for Heavy-Duty 3-Wire Replacement Female Electrical Plugs (http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/8681/heavyduty3wiremaleelect.jpg) that have strain reliefs preferably of small size without 'tabs.'
- Tin/Lead Rosin core (http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/1668/5coresrosincoresolderma.jpg) solder (http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/2363/63088935.jpg) < or = .032" diameter, either 63/37(Sn/Pb) 'melting point @ 183 °C (361 °F,)' or 60/40(Sn/Pb) 'melting range @ 183–190 °C (361–374 °F.)' Lead-free solder is garbage, hence the failing brittle Xbox 360 BGA cold solder joints using inadequate heat in the manufacturing process due to the Lead-free solder's higher melting temp along with mainboard flex. More importantly, acid core solder "plumber's solder" will destroy everything it touches so please stay away from buying solder at a hardware store." ($4-6)
- Activated (RA) Rosin Flux (http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/910/fluxr.jpg). 'No-clean' flux=Manufacturers attempt at cutting cost (some variations are harmfully conductive AND corrosive.) Since we want a product that will last forever, use 90% rubbing alcohol and brush after you are completely finished soldering. All of the flux residue should come off easily if you do not use too much heat saturation, remember if soldering for longer than 3 seconds increase heat and/or use flux paste or pen.($5)
- De-soldering braid (http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/8635/89073354.jpg) 'wick' ($4)
- Heat-shrink tubing (http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/9843/heatshrink.jpg) of varying sizes for insulating wires. ($5)
- Electrical tape, 3M or equivalent. ($1)
- Razor blades 'box cutter style.' ($1)
Project images
Praying mantis_vs._human being
(http://imageshack.us/a/img805/7533/01kinesiskeyboardbefore.jpg)
Right_Half_Kinesis_Unmodified
(http://imageshack.us/a/img542/4153/02righthalfkinesisunmod.jpg)
Right_Half_Kinesis_Modified
(http://imageshack.us/a/img832/2629/03righthalfkinesismodif.jpg)
Left_Half_Kinesis_Modified
(http://imageshack.us/a/img543/3712/04lefthalfkinesismodifi.jpg)
Soldier_Side_MCU
(http://imageshack.us/a/img153/2255/05soldiersidemcu.jpg)
Right_Half_Internal_VGA_Connection_View
(http://imageshack.us/a/img810/3539/06righthalfinternalvgac.jpg)
Right_Half_External_VGA_Connection_View
(http://imageshack.us/a/img225/8708/07righthalfexternalvgac.jpg)
Left_Half_Internal_VGA_Connection_View
(http://imageshack.us/a/img191/2356/08lefthalfinternalvgaco.jpg)
Left_Half_External_VGA_Connection_View
(http://imageshack.us/a/img803/4344/09righthalfexternalvgac.jpg)
All Mechanical
(http://imageshack.us/a/img828/6630/10allmechanical.jpg)
Pinout images
Drill into the PCB's all you want "not the MCU, duh!" because the traces/pads hide no more =P
Thumb_Right_Pinout_V.005
(http://imageshack.us/a/img190/2476/11thumbrightschematicv0.jpg)
Thumb_Left_Pinout_V.005
(http://imageshack.us/a/img204/9779/12thumbleftschematicv00.jpg)
Bowl_Right_Pinout
(http://i.imgur.com/AK6pbfy.jpg)
Bowl_Left_Pinout (REV E 13-20003-005)
(http://i.imgur.com/YoUgdFU.jpg)
Function_Key_Pinout 'Membrane's are not ordain'
(http://i.imgur.com/BJP1xLu.jpg)
Splitting Kinesis Contour keyboard into two halves tutorial
- Cut VGA Male to Male extension cable into three pieces as shown in the image below. The ends being the exact same length (mine are approx. four feet long but it really depends on a lot of environmental factors such as keyboard placement in regards to desk and/or chair dimensions.) For an example, if you are using a fifteen foot VGA cable and decide to cut the end cables to four feet in length, you will be left with seven foot long mid-section cable which should be more than adequate wire to complete this mod.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img689/2397/16vgacablecutthreesecti.jpg)
- Now it's time to crack this baby open, but first it would be a good idea to unplug it first. Take your philips screwdriver and remove all six (6) screws then put them in some sort of container labeled 'case' or simply pay attention to the lengths. These screws are longer than ones inside so if you get them mixed up, you will likely bottom out and split the standoff open as it doesn't take much torque.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img851/6154/17removesixscrews.jpg)
- Split the mid-section cable sheathing lengthwise with a box-cutter. Don't worry, you will not slice through the metal braided shielding but if you do, it would probably be a good time to practice using more finesse before going any further for obvious reasons.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img718/332/18vgacablecrosssection.jpg)
Note::laser:My keyboard didn't exhibit any issues concerning interference but if you start getting erratic output from other electronics near the keyboard, run keyboard diagnostic program such as 'AquaKeyTest.' Need to extend the AT/PS-2/USB cable? Say you chair mount and the computer is far away, it wouldn't be a bad idea to add two pull-up resistors of 1KΩ between Clock and +5V, the other between Data and +5V. This will prevent the Clock and data lines from floating and be consistently pulled high but don't worry, one kilo ohm (1000Ω) reduces the current to almost null. What I've discovered from allowing function key wires to touch together 'short to switches,' a few keys in the bowl would not work until after I was finished testing the function key wiring and properly isolating them. Should you suspect environmental interference as a culprit, two easy diagnosis come to mind allowing you to rule out wi-fi routers, EMI, AC sine waves, RF, etc. Move the keyboard to a remote location or be lazy, completely wrap your keyboard in a single layer of aluminum foil and press keys through it. If you indeed have electronics that emit a lot of interference in the vicinity of the keyboard halves, the internal pull-up resistors could be too weak inside the MCU because it was never engineered with the signal wires traveling further than a few inches. All you have to do is reapply the shielding just like the VGA cable was before the dissecting demise, minus the braided shielding. Wrap the wires with foil 'non-conductive colored side inwards against the wires' shown as blue in the image above, periodically applying a small dab of tape to prevent foil from unraveling. Remove the bare braided wire from the mid-section cable, solder both ends immediately to prevent fraying and tape one end where the shielding begins away from the MCU. Use small dabs of electrical tape every inch or two applying it lengthwise across entire conductive shielding with three inch overhang only on end away from switches, towards MCU. Using electrical tape, completely wrap foil and braided wire. Solder the bare wire to the shielding earth ground wire of the PS/2 or USB cable, (should be the uninsulated wire but check continuity with DVOM 'one lead touching the metal casing of connector' just in case) not to be confused with DC ground (black wire.) Precautions must be made to ensure the earth ground shielding is not exposed and wires fastened securely to prevent component leads from 'wearing' through the electrical tape as permanent damage to MCU can result via short to ground.
(http://imageshack.us/a/img221/9942/19howtoshieldwires.jpg)[/list]
it's not mine, don't know whose it is, but looks cool
Show Image
(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=16679&d=1302074411)
If he did what I think he did, he may not have had to re-wire anything, the ribbon cables are able to reach, each half hinging off the middle main PCB. I'd like to see another pic from another angle. Good idea, that is the hold up for most people cutting it in half. Thanks for showing it.
Another similar, but he had to get mega wiring:
BLUECAR: The detail you're showing is fantastic, it makes the difference between just seeing the project and being able to pick up on the "how". Please keep the info coming. :)