Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 01 June 2017, 12:52:51
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/files/banner.PNG?v=1496290990)
Update: 9/2/17
I wanted to address a couple things regarding this round. Firstly I can't say this enough but thank you all for your amazing support. Not only have you made this round extremely successful but you guys have been providing us with critical information that we will use to make round 2 even better. Secondly there has been a small issue with the C3 capacitor interfering with case placement, I personally have not encountered this issue, but I would still like to address it. Please carefully place your pcb into the case if you feel like it's not properly aligning carefully move it around until it slots in.Thirdly we have been getting sent pictures of plates that seem to be warped, I think the root of the problem lies with how I designed the bottom right row hole and the two side screw holes. Although the plates are rigid these holes can caused warping issues during the finishing process.
If a replacement is needed please contact evan at the thevankeyboards@gmail.com we will be more than happy to accommodate you, we want everyone to have a positive experience with this group buy :D
This leads me to the general fixes we will be doing with round 2, we still have yet to announce features. Stayed tuned for those ;)
PCB:
-Fix smd issue near mounting points.
-Shorten side lengths for looser case tolerances.
Plate:
-Fix warping issues by removing the side gaps on the side screw holes.
-Potentially add stabilizing bars on the bottom right switch row hole.
We have so much planned for round 2 and we are planning to announce it as one big update. Round 2 will be released at the end of October.
TheVan Keyboards in partnership with Arhipio is proud to bring you the BananaSplit60 keyboard kit.
What is the BananaSplit60?
The BananaSplit60 is a 60% PCB featuring a split spacebar as well as layouts that accommodate arrow keys on the default layer. The BananaSplit also supports ANSI and ISO layouts.
Including features like top mounted leds, fits standard 60% cases, easy programability using a custom configurator (supports TMK firmware) and the ability to choose between pcb and plate mounted switches.
Link to the configurator, create your own firmware without needing to mess with source code!
http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
Supported Layouts:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/files/layouts.PNG?v=1496291045)
PCB:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/products/o2QbrTZ_large.jpg?v=1496291809)
Stainless Steel Plate:
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/files/eyJ1cmwiOiJodHRwczovL2kuaW1ndXIuY29tL3J2akQwak0ucG5nIn0_1024x1024.png?v=1496291286)
Example boards:
More
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/products/4Mpx0eZ_large.jpg?v=1496291809)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/products/5mX7VeZ_large.jpg?v=1496291809)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZQS6v7X.png)
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1369/4793/products/5mX7VeZ_large.jpg?v=1496291809)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZQS6v7X.png)
There are three options for the kit:
Base Kit $100:
-Stainless Steel Plate
-PCB
-Authentic Cherry PCB Mount Stabilizers (6 x 2u, 1 x 6u)
Bare Bones Kit $75:
-PCB
-Authentic Cherry PCB Mount Stabilizers (6 x 2u, 1 x 6u)
PCB Only Kit $65:
-PCB
Schedule:
-Shipping them out to you :D (end of July)
Available at thevankeyboards.com
(http://thevankeyboards.com)
Note: This is a group buy meaning that orders will be taken for a period of 19 days (June 1 2017 through June 19 2017) and once the orders close a bulk manufacturing order will be placed. The lead time from when the order gets placed is 4 weeks. We are expecting to start shipping kits out at the end of July 2017.
Link to original interest check thread: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84891.0;topicseen (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84891.0;topicseen)
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 03 June 2017, 13:06:22
Post by: e996 on Sat, 03 June 2017, 18:05:30
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 03 June 2017, 20:58:54
ordered mine, so excited!!
Thank you :D
Post by: Auk on Sun, 04 June 2017, 05:44:52
[attach=1]
Is this going to have an IC thread of its' own now? aside from the obvious: price, ETA, color and finish options etc. is there more design detail to finalize? e.g. is the cut out for USB connectors big enough? iirc in the past some of the custom sleeved cables don't fit certain custom cases.
Post by: iFreilicht on Sun, 04 June 2017, 06:33:16
Is this going to have an IC thread of its' own now? aside from the obvious: price, ETA, color and finish options etc. is there more design detail to finalize? e.g. is the cut out for USB connectors big enough? iirc in the past some of the custom sleeved cables don't fit certain custom cases.
It was mentioned in the IC for this board that yes, the case will be done separately, so you should be on the lookout for that.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 04 June 2017, 12:12:19
:thumb:Is this going to have an IC thread of its' own now? aside from the obvious: price, ETA, color and finish options etc. is there more design detail to finalize? e.g. is the cut out for USB connectors big enough? iirc in the past some of the custom sleeved cables don't fit certain custom cases.
It was mentioned in the IC for this board that yes, the case will be done separately, so you should be on the lookout for that.
Post by: SpectreiiI on Sun, 04 June 2017, 15:33:41
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 05 June 2017, 14:00:49
Does this support alps?
No it does not.
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 05 June 2017, 14:02:01
(http://i.imgur.com/Hkqvlav.png)
Edit: All future posts pertaining to the gb will be here.
Post by: kmba on Mon, 05 June 2017, 19:01:30
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 05 June 2017, 19:18:59
Was it determined if this PCB is holtite compatible? I know it's the same as the minivan but not sure if that PCB works either.
There should be no reason it shouldn't be.
Post by: kmba on Mon, 05 June 2017, 20:39:31
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 06 June 2017, 17:44:26
Cool. I'm planning on putting them in the three switch positions for question mark and 1.75u right shift so I can switch between a normal split shift setup and the modified arrow setup with shift in place of question mark. Best of both worlds.
Sounds awesome can't wait to see a build log of that :D
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 07 June 2017, 11:57:42
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 07 June 2017, 12:08:50
Post by: JDragon on Wed, 07 June 2017, 12:23:00
New option for $85, PCB and plate without stabilizers.
If I already ordered the $100 option but would rather have the $85 option, should I just shoot Evan an e-mail for help?
Post by: 8megabit on Wed, 07 June 2017, 12:28:25
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 07 June 2017, 13:34:48
Post by: iFreilicht on Wed, 07 June 2017, 18:38:27
[attach=1]
In the beginning I also wanted do make both spacebars 2.75u and put a .75u blocker between those, but that makes it harder to press some key combinations that involve F1-F4 (right space will be Fn and maybe Enter as well). The problem with that is also that it makes the gap and material-difference between the plate and case very visible, which would probably look bad.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 07 June 2017, 19:53:35
Work on 3D-printed 5mm plate is going well. Only missing the screw-holes now and need to split it up so I can properly print it. This is pretty much the standard layout except I put a .75u blocker between ? and up-arrow. I think this will be more aesthetically pleasing, especially because my keyset doesn't have an orange 1.75u key and I don't want to try and dye one to match the colour.
(Attachment Link)
In the beginning I also wanted do make both spacebars 2.75u and put a .75u blocker between those, but that makes it harder to press some key combinations that involve F1-F4 (right space will be Fn and maybe Enter as well). The problem with that is also that it makes the gap and material-difference between the plate and case very visible, which would probably look bad.
Looks awesome can't wait to see it come to fruition.
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 08 June 2017, 20:38:42
Post by: kmba on Thu, 08 June 2017, 20:39:21
Post by: senter on Thu, 08 June 2017, 21:25:46
Post by: wakko on Thu, 08 June 2017, 22:40:19
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 09 June 2017, 11:23:54
In
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
:)
Post by: hattenbachd on Sun, 11 June 2017, 01:40:43
Post by: dodgeyhack on Sun, 11 June 2017, 02:10:05
Now will I do a standard arrow cluster or vim arrows in the bottom right? Decisions decisions...
Post by: Giorgio on Sun, 11 June 2017, 02:24:43
Post by: iFreilicht on Sun, 11 June 2017, 07:17:52
22$ for shipping to Germany seems a little steep, but I guess it's insured and tracked properly, so as long as it gets here safe, I can deal with that.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 11 June 2017, 13:02:45
This pcb is very interesting, but not having soldered before, I'm worried of making a mess with an expensive PCB.
Soldering is really easy to get into, if you have an old board you don't use you can practice desoldering and solder on that before hand.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 11 June 2017, 15:12:18
Just ordered the PCB!
22$ for shipping to Germany seems a little steep, but I guess it's insured and tracked properly, so as long as it gets here safe, I can deal with that.
Awesome thanks a ton :thumb: . International shipping is always super annoying sorry about that.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 11 June 2017, 15:13:23
Joined.
Now will I do a standard arrow cluster or vim arrows in the bottom right? Decisions decisions...
Too many options, and you can always change it out if you want to try something different :D.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 11 June 2017, 15:15:50
(http://i.imgur.com/UmCeqri.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/RkYuyBo.png)
We're at 94 orders thanks for the continued support everyone!
Post by: Hafizi Hilmi on Sun, 11 June 2017, 21:30:48
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 12 June 2017, 11:43:19
Interested. Btw, what is the 6u stab used for? And can I opt for only plate and pcb w/o stabs?
The 6u stab is used for standard 6.25 spacebar if you decide to use one. We have an option for this on the gb page.
Post by: Hafizi Hilmi on Mon, 12 June 2017, 19:49:35
Interested. Btw, what is the 6u stab used for? And can I opt for only plate and pcb w/o stabs?
The 6u stab is used for standard 6.25 spacebar if you decide to use one. We have an option for this on the gb page.
Ahh yeah that makes sense. Im stoopid. Btw in the GB page, the PCB+Plate-Stabs=$115? As oppose to PCB+Plate+Stabs=$100? Was it intentional?
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 12 June 2017, 20:38:10
Interested. Btw, what is the 6u stab used for? And can I opt for only plate and pcb w/o stabs?
The 6u stab is used for standard 6.25 spacebar if you decide to use one. We have an option for this on the gb page.
Ahh yeah that makes sense. Im stoopid. Btw in the GB page, the PCB+Plate-Stabs=$115? As oppose to PCB+Plate+Stabs=$100? Was it intentional?
It's intentional, we want people to get the genuine stabilizers. But if people opt out they are more than welcome to.
Post by: Hafizi Hilmi on Tue, 13 June 2017, 08:08:22
Interested. Btw, what is the 6u stab used for? And can I opt for only plate and pcb w/o stabs?
The 6u stab is used for standard 6.25 spacebar if you decide to use one. We have an option for this on the gb page.
Ahh yeah that makes sense. Im stoopid. Btw in the GB page, the PCB+Plate-Stabs=$115? As oppose to PCB+Plate+Stabs=$100? Was it intentional?
It's intentional, we want people to get the genuine stabilizers. But if people opt out they are more than welcome to.
Haha thats illogically weird. Good luck with the GB anyway.
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 13 June 2017, 23:46:06
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Post by: sithlord on Wed, 14 June 2017, 01:06:57
Looking forward to this kit. :thumb:
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 14 June 2017, 02:09:03
Evan just finalized the configurator for the BananaSplit60.
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Does it support QMK as well?
Post by: Draic on Wed, 14 June 2017, 07:40:22
Evan just finalized the configurator for the BananaSplit60.
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Does it support QMK as well?
As it uses TMK porting to QMK should be no problem, but there is no mention of the controller that the bananasplit will be using.
And looking at the configurator I saw that the upcoming minivan pcb is also already there. Looking forward to that one
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 14 June 2017, 09:20:18
Evan just finalized the configurator for the BananaSplit60.
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Does it support QMK as well?
As it uses TMK porting to QMK should be no problem, but there is no mention of the controller that the bananasplit will be using.
And looking at the configurator I saw that the upcoming minivan pcb is also already there. Looking forward to that one
Sounds like it's an atmega32u4: https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/57e8ot/banana_split_60_pcb_update/?st=j3x2pdr4&sh=8fa4ae14 (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/57e8ot/banana_split_60_pcb_update/?st=j3x2pdr4&sh=8fa4ae14)
Sounds good! I'm new to this so how complicated would porting from TMK to QMK be? I don't mind learning. Just want to know if there are downsides.
The reason I'm asking is because I wonder if it'll be compatible with a Nordic ISO layout, utilizing the AltGr key. Looking at the configurator, I couldn't find anything resembling AltGr. Am I missing something?
Totally agree on looking forward to the minivan pcb!
Post by: Auk on Wed, 14 June 2017, 09:33:52
compatible with a Nordic ISO layout, utilizing the AltGr key...
...I couldn't find anything resembling AltGr..
Banana Split has an ISO layout option, and the RALT in the config would be AltGr wouldn't it?
[attach=1]
Post by: KevlarBear on Wed, 14 June 2017, 11:20:16
[attach=1]
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 14 June 2017, 12:15:24
Evan just finalized the configurator for the BananaSplit60.
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Does it support QMK as well?
Qmk is supported just not on the configurator yet
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 14 June 2017, 12:15:43
Just joined, can't wait to build it! What is your preference when using a split spacebar, the 2.75u on the left or the right?
(Attachment Link)
I prefer the 2.75 on the right, but both work well :)
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 14 June 2017, 12:16:34
compatible with a Nordic ISO layout, utilizing the AltGr key...
...I couldn't find anything resembling AltGr..
Banana Split has an ISO layout option, and the RALT in the config would be AltGr wouldn't it?
(Attachment Link)
I'll relay that to evan, might be something we overlooked but easy enough to implement. Thank you for pointing that out.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 14 June 2017, 12:19:45
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 14 June 2017, 12:20:42
compatible with a Nordic ISO layout, utilizing the AltGr key...
...I couldn't find anything resembling AltGr..
Banana Split has an ISO layout option, and the RALT in the config would be AltGr wouldn't it?
(Attachment Link)
I'll relay that to evan, might be something we overlooked but easy enough to implement. Thank you for pointing that out.
The right alt is altgr, the OS will recognize that and translate it to the desired function. Sorry for the confusion.
Post by: Auk on Wed, 14 June 2017, 13:46:39
The right alt is altgr, the OS will recognize that and translate it to the desired function. Sorry for the confusion.
I've been wondering about this for a while: can we program AltGr behavior in ANSI layout? I quite like the ISO layout for easy access to some symbols e.g. AltGr+m = µ and AltGr+Shift+0 = °
Thanks for all the support guys we just hit 113 orders. :thumb:
You mentioned having extras after the GB. Will the price be increased when those are available? I've got one eye on the case and keyset that are still to be finalized, and I'd prefer to wait and get everything later if possible, even more so if there could be second round of the PCB later.
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 14 June 2017, 15:13:19
compatible with a Nordic ISO layout, utilizing the AltGr key...
...I couldn't find anything resembling AltGr..
Banana Split has an ISO layout option, and the RALT in the config would be AltGr wouldn't it?
(Attachment Link)
I'll relay that to evan, might be something we overlooked but easy enough to implement. Thank you for pointing that out.
Thanks, Arhipio! I'm actually stoked about the board and have more or less decided to join the bandwagon by now. :)
EDIT: Just noticed your second reply. Thanks for clearing things up! :thumb:
As a side note, I'm quite happy that there is a 1.25u key in between the shorter space bars. This means that now there's a 60% board with arrow cluster, support for Nordic ISO, and I can use the AltGr keycap included in international kits! I haven't seen any 1u AltGr keycaps included in international kits, which is weird because in almost all layouts I come across AltGr is 1) always positioned to the right of the space bar and 2) quite often 1u. The Banana Split 60 layout sort of solves all my layout wants and needs!
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 14 June 2017, 15:15:57
Evan just finalized the configurator for the BananaSplit60.
Link if you want to play around with it: http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/ (http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/)
:thumb:
Does it support QMK as well?
Qmk is supported just not on the configurator yet
Thanks for the heads up!
Post by: evangs on Wed, 14 June 2017, 15:31:42
The right alt is altgr, the OS will recognize that and translate it to the desired function. Sorry for the confusion.
I've been wondering about this for a while: can we program AltGr behavior in ANSI layout? I quite like the ISO layout for easy access to some symbols e.g. AltGr+m = µ and AltGr+Shift+0 = °Thanks for all the support guys we just hit 113 orders. :thumb:
You mentioned having extras after the GB. Will the price be increased when those are available? I've got one eye on the case and keyset that are still to be finalized, and I'd prefer to wait and get everything later if possible, even more so if there could be second round of the PCB later.
To have altgr on an ansi board you would need to configure your keyboard layout in your OS as ISO. I'm not sure how al of hay would play out. My limited understanding of how Keyboards/OSes do ISO is that the OS responds differently to the same scan codes.
As far as leftovers they will be a little bit more. We haven't decided on a price yet
Post by: Auk on Wed, 14 June 2017, 15:50:23
To have altgr on an ansi...
Thanks. I think should be OK - there are custom layout creators for OS so I can't see why it would be impossible, but maybe something I don't foresee would prevent it. Definitely not a deal breaker though, I could use either ISO or ANSI in regular form if necessary.
Post by: Draic on Wed, 14 June 2017, 15:53:50
To have altgr on an ansi...
Thanks. I think should be OK - there are custom layout creators for OS so I can't see why it would be impossible, but maybe something I don't foresee would prevent it. Definitely not a deal breaker though, I could use either ISO or ANSI in regular form if necessary.
Maybe I am misunderstanding you somewhere, but don't you just need to set your OS to US-International? With that you have the normal ansi layout but AltGr and all it's characters are available. Only difference from normal ansi is that quote will now act as a dead key (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_key).
Post by: UncleGary on Thu, 15 June 2017, 03:21:26
Post by: hansichen on Thu, 15 June 2017, 06:32:36
Ordered my kit a couple days ago; good louck with the GB. On a side note, I saw this board in one of your guys' earlier threads, can you tell me what caps these are? http://i.imgur.com/9C8a2yM.jpg
Looks like SA hack'd by geeks
Post by: ctrl on Thu, 15 June 2017, 17:47:26
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 15 June 2017, 17:48:17
Well, I'm in. There were no reasons to resist anymore. It's simply an awesome looking board!
Thank you :D
Post by: Draic on Thu, 15 June 2017, 23:46:40
Post by: stoic-lemon on Fri, 16 June 2017, 02:00:37
Post by: dac9 on Fri, 16 June 2017, 09:08:35
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 16 June 2017, 11:20:23
Does it use mini usb or usb-c?
Mini usb :)
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 16 June 2017, 11:21:21
Just Purchased One. First Build. Very Excited :)
That's exciting, can't wait to see a build log of it ;)
Post by: iFreilicht on Sat, 17 June 2017, 17:20:47
I've been wondering about this for a while: can we program AltGr behavior in ANSI layout? I quite like the ISO layout for easy access to some symbols e.g. AltGr+m = µ and AltGr+Shift+0 = °
To have altgr on an ansi board you would need to configure your keyboard layout in your OS as ISO. I'm not sure how al of hay would play out. My limited understanding of how Keyboards/OSes do ISO is that the OS responds differently to the same scan codes.
That is not quite correct. You can choose the US-International layout in your OS to enable AltGr while leaving everything else as it is. It will then work as shown here (https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/KB_US-International.svg). So you will then be able to use AltGr+M for µ and AltGr+Shift+; for °. It also enables tons of other characters to be used.
If you do this, you might want to make ' a macro-key that actuall presses '+Space, as it is a dead key in the US-Intl layout used for writing accented characters.
But you are correct that changing the layout in the OS will change how the OS responds to the scan codes.
Post by: dirksoccer on Sun, 18 June 2017, 14:23:50
Post by: evangs on Sun, 18 June 2017, 15:14:04
Made a GH account just to follow this group buy! I'm also very interested in buying the case mentioned in the IC, is there any way to be alerted when that IC/GB goes up? Also, in the meantime I'm thinking I'll just borrow the case from my Pok3r, the BananaSplit should fit it just fine right?m
Yes that will work. To get updates on The Retro60, I would suggest joining the mailing list on thevankeyboards.com
Post by: rrrsss on Sun, 18 June 2017, 19:24:31
EDIT: And I just realized there are only 2 stabs included. If I have a split-spacebar but normal right shift that means i need two more stabs right? For the right shift and the enter? Is it possible to order more through you?
Post by: ChitownM2 on Sun, 18 June 2017, 21:29:40
EDIT: And I just realized there are only 2 stabs included. If I have a split-spacebar but normal right shift that means i need two more stabs right? For the right shift and the enter? Is it possible to order more through you?
The site says you get 6 2u stabilizers and 1 6u
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 18 June 2017, 21:47:05
EDIT: And I just realized there are only 2 stabs included. If I have a split-spacebar but normal right shift that means i need two more stabs right? For the right shift and the enter? Is it possible to order more through you?
The site says you get 6 2u stabilizers and 1 6u
This.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 18 June 2017, 22:01:27
We're at 154 orders! Thanks a ton :D
Post by: rrrsss on Sun, 18 June 2017, 22:48:43
EDIT: And I just realized there are only 2 stabs included. If I have a split-spacebar but normal right shift that means i need two more stabs right? For the right shift and the enter? Is it possible to order more through you?
The site says you get 6 2u stabilizers and 1 6u
This.
Welps my fault. Any info for the plate file?
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 18 June 2017, 22:50:47
EDIT: And I just realized there are only 2 stabs included. If I have a split-spacebar but normal right shift that means i need two more stabs right? For the right shift and the enter? Is it possible to order more through you?
The site says you get 6 2u stabilizers and 1 6u
This.
Welps my fault. Any info for the plate file?
I pm'd you :)
Post by: Auk on Mon, 19 June 2017, 09:02:33
Can we build this with PCB mounted everything, without plate, to save on the overall cost? I'm unsure as there was some discussion previously about the stabilizers being plate mount only, but now they're PCB mount?
Post by: iFreilicht on Mon, 19 June 2017, 09:35:32
I'm going to read through the IC again to see if this was definitively answered, but I'm going to ask here:
Can we build this with PCB mounted everything, without plate, to save on the overall cost? I'm unsure as there was some discussion previously about the stabilizers being plate mount only, but now they're PCB mount?
You can. Stabs are PCB mount and PCB mount switches are supported as well. And that's all you need anyway.
Post by: Auk on Mon, 19 June 2017, 10:02:26
You can...
Excellent, thanks :)
Got a couple of hours left to make a last minute decision but I think I am going to have to wait for round 2 and hope I can do something with the Retro60 case. That would be the rational option since I will have to pay import and 'processing' fees (a.k.a. the legalized extortion to receive your property.)
Post by: evangs on Mon, 19 June 2017, 10:02:40
I'm going to read through the IC again to see if this was definitively answered, but I'm going to ask here:
Can we build this with PCB mounted everything, without plate, to save on the overall cost? I'm unsure as there was some discussion previously about the stabilizers being plate mount only, but now they're PCB mount?
You can. Stabs are PCB mount and PCB mount switches are supported as well. And that's all you need anyway.
This is all correct. You can do pcb only option and use all pcb mount components. The stabs we include are pcb mount. If you plan on using a 6.25 spacebar I would recommend a plate as that switch position doesn't have pcb mount holes due to other switch positions being close. I have built one his way without a plate and while it's not impossible it is more difficult.
Post by: donut_sauce on Mon, 19 June 2017, 10:36:32
Post by: evangs on Mon, 19 June 2017, 10:47:33
order placed:-) now to track down an angled high profile case...
There's a good one on aliexpress with an optional weight
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 19 June 2017, 13:36:42
order placed:-) now to track down an angled high profile case...
There's a good one on aliexpress with an optional weight
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html)
The one evan is referring to, I would highly recommend it.
Post by: donut_sauce on Mon, 19 June 2017, 14:37:07
order placed:-) now to track down an angled high profile case...
There's a good one on aliexpress with an optional weight
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html)
The one evan is referring to, I would highly recommend it.
Wow thanks so much for the recommendations! That case looks great. The plastic case kbd sells might also work since this may end up being a travel board. The Mekanisk High Profile Case (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6hp2fx/high_profile_clean_case/) looks great too but not sure when that will ship . Also I imagine this one will be super heavy too.
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 19 June 2017, 14:49:15
Its a brick, heaviest case I have. The plastic case might be the way to go if you want to keep things light.order placed:-) now to track down an angled high profile case...
There's a good one on aliexpress with an optional weight
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Mechanical-keyboard-shell-anode-aluminum-shell-gh60-poker-60-mechanical-keyboard-shell/2230037_32677137562.html)
The one evan is referring to, I would highly recommend it.
Wow thanks so much for the recommendations! That case looks great. The plastic case kbd sells might also work since this may end up being a travel board. The Mekanisk High Profile Case (https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/6hp2fx/high_profile_clean_case/) looks great too but not sure when that will ship . Also I imagine this one will be super heavy too.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: donut_sauce on Mon, 19 June 2017, 14:57:07
Post by: rrrsss on Mon, 19 June 2017, 15:30:48
i'm so excited about this!!! what kind of switches are everyone planning on using?
that makes the two of us ;D I'm planning on using Gat Black/Yellow on my builds.. maybe Silent Blacks if I can get my hands on some of them.
Post by: UncleGary on Mon, 19 June 2017, 15:34:05
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 19 June 2017, 15:36:13
This top plate should be compatible with the Banana Split layouts, right?Just from a quick glance, looks about right.
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
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Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 20 June 2017, 00:10:51
Post by: dodgeyhack on Tue, 20 June 2017, 05:58:16
This top plate should be compatible with the Banana Split layouts, right?
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
To me the layout looks exactly the same as the one included in this GB.
It's from this GB yeah? https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6gbids/gb_60_carbon_fiber_plates_mx_andor_alps/
I've joined for one so I hope it fits! =)
Post by: Cotay on Tue, 20 June 2017, 11:12:09
The thread says the GB is closed, but there appears to be one kit still available on the website as of 11:03 PM PDT on June 20th.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 21 June 2017, 11:46:07
This top plate should be compatible with the Banana Split layouts, right?
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
To me the layout looks exactly the same as the one included in this GB.
It's from this GB yeah? https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6gbids/gb_60_carbon_fiber_plates_mx_andor_alps/
I've joined for one so I hope it fits! =)
Looks like it should :thumb:
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 23 June 2017, 14:25:34
If anyone has ideas or suggestions for the sticker design, please let us know. :thumb:
Post by: KevlarBear on Sat, 24 June 2017, 00:17:47
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 24 June 2017, 14:17:41
Thanks for the updates, got my switches, leds, and case ready to go! Planning on making some Pandalios (Invyr Panda housing, Zealio stems)
Awesome! I'd definitely like to see how those turn out.
Post by: ThatsFineThatOne on Sat, 24 June 2017, 15:03:28
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 24 June 2017, 19:36:55
I joined the GB but could do with a couple of extra sets of stabs - is it possible to add these to an order?
For sure email evan at (thevankeyboards@gmail.com) and he'd be more than willing to help you. :thumb:
Post by: evangs on Wed, 28 June 2017, 18:27:49
Post by: chuckdee on Wed, 28 June 2017, 18:51:56
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Very nice! How many LEDs did you use, and where did you situate them?
Post by: donut_sauce on Wed, 28 June 2017, 19:31:12
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
is that saran wrap on your cable? please explain :)
Post by: evangs on Wed, 28 June 2017, 19:34:53
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
is that saran wrap on your cable? please explain :)
I haven't fully unwrapped it xD
Post by: evangs on Wed, 28 June 2017, 19:35:59
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Very nice! How many LEDs did you use, and where did you situate them?
I went about every other switch around the perimeter. More wouldn't hurt
Post by: ctrl on Thu, 29 June 2017, 01:20:34
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Now that is pretty! With ghetto underglow, would there be any difficulties fitting the board to the case?
Post by: iFreilicht on Thu, 29 June 2017, 08:13:24
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
is that saran wrap on your cable? please explain :)
I think the cable is coiled there, maybe evan plans to resell that cable or hasn't fully unpacked it yet.
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 30 June 2017, 12:34:42
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Now that is pretty! With ghetto underglow, would there be any difficulties fitting the board to the case?
There shouldn't be any clearance issues if you setup the leds flush to the pcb, they can even protrude a little since you have leadway with the board stand offs.
Post by: ctrl on Sat, 01 July 2017, 03:26:19
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Now that is pretty! With ghetto underglow, would there be any difficulties fitting the board to the case?
There shouldn't be any clearance issues if you setup the leds flush to the pcb, they can even protrude a little since you have leadway with the board stand offs.
Sounds great! Really interested in trying this.
I read earlier there was mention of a (retro?) case as well. Any word on how that's progressing?
Post by: evangs on Sat, 01 July 2017, 22:31:23
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Now that is pretty! With ghetto underglow, would there be any difficulties fitting the board to the case?
There shouldn't be any clearance issues if you setup the leds flush to the pcb, they can even protrude a little since you have leadway with the board stand offs.
Sounds great! Really interested in trying this.
I read earlier there was mention of a (retro?) case as well. Any word on how that's progressing?
The only clearance issue would be with the bottom of the case. This didn't fit quite right in my Tex case but had no issues with the acrylic case. The Retro60 case is in the prototyping phase right now. Hopefully have more to share soon
Post by: KevlarBear on Sat, 01 July 2017, 23:22:04
Post by: ctrl on Sun, 02 July 2017, 05:14:28
My acrylic case from MD came in. The ghetto underglow looks fantastic! https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm (https://imgur.com/a/cPWbm)
Now that is pretty! With ghetto underglow, would there be any difficulties fitting the board to the case?
There shouldn't be any clearance issues if you setup the leds flush to the pcb, they can even protrude a little since you have leadway with the board stand offs.
Sounds great! Really interested in trying this.
I read earlier there was mention of a (retro?) case as well. Any word on how that's progressing?
The only clearance issue would be with the bottom of the case. This didn't fit quite right in my Tex case but had no issues with the acrylic case. The Retro60 case is in the prototyping phase right now. Hopefully have more to share soon
Thanks! Will keep that in mind. Looking forward to hearing and seeing more about the Retro60!
Post by: ctrl on Sun, 02 July 2017, 05:16:50
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
Post by: KevlarBear on Sun, 02 July 2017, 11:22:31
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
If you look at the last picture in the page, there is a pic of the supported layouts. It includes the arrows but only in this layout:
[attach=1]
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 02 July 2017, 13:59:40
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
The plate layout wise looks almost identical to mine, that should work and support all the bananasplit options. But if you are patient I can almost guarantee that for the 2nd round we can offer a much cheaper brass plate alternative.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 02 July 2017, 14:02:49
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
If you look at the last picture in the page, there is a pic of the supported layouts. It includes the arrows but only in this layout:
(Attachment Link)
Could you clarify? Because the pcb and plate both support the traditional arrow layout and the L arrow layout.
Post by: Auk on Sun, 02 July 2017, 14:10:02
...if you are patient I can almost guarantee that for the 2nd round we can offer a much cheaper brass plate alternative.
That would be a great option for a later round. Would you be able to have the PVD coat and mirror shininess like Keyclack's plate?
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 02 July 2017, 20:29:03
I'll look into it :)...if you are patient I can almost guarantee that for the 2nd round we can offer a much cheaper brass plate alternative.
That would be a great option for a later round. Would you be able to have the PVD coat and mirror shininess like Keyclack's plate?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: KevlarBear on Sun, 02 July 2017, 22:55:31
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
If you look at the last picture in the page, there is a pic of the supported layouts. It includes the arrows but only in this layout:
(Attachment Link)
Could you clarify? Because the pcb and plate both support the traditional arrow layout and the L arrow layout.
I am just going by the layout pictures that are on Keyclack.
[attach=1]
By layout pics alone, it seems this configuration is not supported
[attach=2]
But looking at the render on Keyclack and the picture of the actual steel plate they look pretty much identical
Post by: ctrl on Mon, 03 July 2017, 01:41:43
Keyclack.com currently has a group buy going for pretty nice universal plate made out of brass: https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate (https://keyclack.com/groupbuy/universal60brassplate)
Now that would look good with GMK Nautilus! Will it support bottom right arrow cluster? From the looks of the plate, I'd say it seems like it, but it's not included in the layout chart.
The plate layout wise looks almost identical to mine, that should work and support all the bananasplit options. But if you are patient I can almost guarantee that for the 2nd round we can offer a much cheaper brass plate alternative.
Sounds great!! ;D
I think a brass plate will look amazing with the BananaSplit. Second PVD coat and mirror shine for R2.
Post by: donut_sauce on Mon, 03 July 2017, 06:50:57
https://kbdfans.cn/collections/keyboard/products/tina-keyboard-60?variant=40098418765
Post by: atsession on Mon, 03 July 2017, 11:26:14
But looking at the render on Keyclack and the picture of the actual steel plate they look pretty much identical
Man, I came here just to post this brass plate too, but you beat me too it. Agreed this will look fantastic on nautilus. I'm in for the split 60 and this brass plate...
But now where to get a polished brass high pro 60% case amirite?
I'd settle for Blue or even Champagne...
Post by: atsession on Mon, 03 July 2017, 13:55:48
Was checking out KBDFans new Tina and under supported layouts it shows a split spacebar config. Are they saying just that the case supports a split or can you actually build a split with the PCB they're providing?
https://kbdfans.cn/collections/keyboard/products/tina-keyboard-60?variant=40098418765
I'd guess that the top plate from the Tina supports the split spacebar config. Look at the amount of holes on the pcb and top plate... compare it to say a Zeal 60 PCB--much less bottom row switch holes in that. Same goes for the typical 60% plates you see, most have those obvious stabilizer slots, nothing like the long spaces included in the middle of the Tina top plate. This looks pretty similar to the banana split 60 if you ask me.
Just read some reddit posts about the Tina. It sounds like the intent of this board was to really cater to the HHKB layout fans, as the TinaA and TinaC block out some of the left and right sides bottom row.
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 06 July 2017, 10:52:21
Post by: donut_sauce on Thu, 06 July 2017, 11:01:29
Plates could potentially be ready to ship by tomorrow, if not by the end of this week. Stay posted for some pictures sometime next week :thumb:
Whoa! That's awesome, so still on track for kit shipping end of July?:-)
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 06 July 2017, 11:13:14
Plates could potentially be ready to ship by tomorrow, if not by the end of this week. Stay posted for some pictures sometime next week :thumb:
Whoa! That's awesome, so still on track for kit shipping end of July?:-)
Yup!
Post by: donut_sauce on Thu, 06 July 2017, 21:12:49
i'm so excited about this!!! what kind of switches are everyone planning on using?
that makes the two of us ;D I'm planning on using Gat Black/Yellow on my builds.. maybe Silent Blacks if I can get my hands on some of them.
that sounds fun! i'm not too familiar with those switches. i like the idea of mixing switches.
so far i have a boards with mx blues, 45g topres, and 67g zealios. excited to try something new but not sure what should be next on my list.
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 06 July 2017, 23:00:47
i'm so excited about this!!! what kind of switches are everyone planning on using?
that makes the two of us ;D I'm planning on using Gat Black/Yellow on my builds.. maybe Silent Blacks if I can get my hands on some of them.
that sounds fun! i'm not too familiar with those switches. i like the idea of mixing switches.
so far i have a boards with mx blues, 45g topres, and 67g zealios. excited to try something new but not sure what should be next on my list.
You should get some linears but I'm extremely bias, I have a slight addiction when it comes to them.
Post by: donut_sauce on Thu, 06 July 2017, 23:05:44
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 06 July 2017, 23:07:08
any linears you'd recommend?
Any gaterons would be great, yellows are probably my favorite stock switch.
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 08 July 2017, 21:44:25
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 12 July 2017, 13:01:16
Post by: menuhin on Fri, 14 July 2017, 10:51:58
Is I have some specific shipping instruction, to whom I should forward these requests?
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 14 July 2017, 11:19:57
Great! :DEmail evan at thevankeyboards@gmail for specific instructions :D
Is I have some specific shipping instruction, to whom I should forward these requests?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: evangs on Wed, 19 July 2017, 10:40:39
(http://i.imgur.com/eEym3oh.jpg)
I will take some more photos tonight
Post by: Cotay on Thu, 20 July 2017, 01:45:05
The Plates came in yesterday and look real nice.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eEym3oh.jpg)
I will take some more photos tonight
That looks great! Definitely post more pics when you get a chance.
Post by: iFreilicht on Thu, 20 July 2017, 09:30:38
Post by: evangs on Thu, 20 July 2017, 12:05:56
Hows the PCB looking?
supposed to ship on the 24th with 2 day shipping. which sets us up perfectly for shipping out through the end of July. Everything else is on hand save for a few more shipping boxes.
Post by: 8megabit on Fri, 21 July 2017, 20:05:28
Nice! How long do you think shipping to Sweden will be?Hows the PCB looking?
supposed to ship on the 24th with 2 day shipping. which sets us up perfectly for shipping out through the end of July. Everything else is on hand save for a few more shipping boxes.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 21 July 2017, 21:22:51
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 26 July 2017, 11:53:03
Post by: Cotay on Wed, 26 July 2017, 13:21:06
Evan should be getting the pcb's tonight and said he would start shipping orders. Expect some pictures :thumb:
Great news! :thumb: :thumb:
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 26 July 2017, 13:38:17
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 26 July 2017, 16:00:18
This may well be my first custom keyboard that I will actually complete.I love hearing that, glad to hear you chose our kit. You will like it a lot :D
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 26 July 2017, 19:56:57
(http://i.imgur.com/H7eIbhW.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/EG86uVT.png)
Post by: evangs on Wed, 26 July 2017, 23:18:05
(http://i.imgur.com/JqHPesh.jpg)
Kits will start shipping tomorrow!
Post by: tristinDLC on Thu, 27 July 2017, 07:00:48
Post by: lac29 on Thu, 27 July 2017, 08:35:32
Post by: chuckdee on Thu, 27 July 2017, 10:24:54
Are there any extra kits that can be bought?
They've said that those will be posted in the store once the buy is over and orders fulfilled.
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 27 July 2017, 10:43:50
Are there any extra kits that can be bought?
They've said that those will be posted in the store once the buy is over and orders fulfilled.
This, and there won't be many. So you'll have to be quick.
Post by: tristinDLC on Thu, 27 July 2017, 11:31:46
This, and there won't be many. So you'll have to be quick.
I actually already bought one during the GB, but might want another... will there be a newsletter email stating when extras are up for sale in the shop?
Post by: yokken on Thu, 27 July 2017, 15:08:34
This, and there won't be many. So you'll have to be quick.
I actually already bought one during the GB, but might want another... will there be a newsletter email stating when extras are up for sale in the shop?
Shoot me a PM.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 28 July 2017, 11:04:38
This, and there won't be many. So you'll have to be quick.
I actually already bought one during the GB, but might want another... will there be a newsletter email stating when extras are up for sale in the shop?
there will be an email from TheVan Keyboards newsletter stating that extras are available and how to get them, when the time comes.
Post by: 8megabit on Fri, 28 July 2017, 15:05:54
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 28 July 2017, 15:10:06
Will I get an email with tracking information when my package is sent?
Yup
Post by: evangs on Fri, 28 July 2017, 15:57:49
Will I get an email with tracking information when my package is sent?
I'm working hard to get orders out as fast as I can. There are about 160 orders left to ship. LightCycle keycaps just came in today so I have another 250 orders of that to push out. Needless to say I'll be pretty busy this weekend.
Post by: lvince95 on Fri, 28 July 2017, 16:34:18
Post by: 8megabit on Fri, 28 July 2017, 16:57:42
Yeah no worries, I was just wondering whether I should keep an eye out for an email or not. :)Will I get an email with tracking information when my package is sent?
I'm working hard to get orders out as fast as I can. There are about 160 orders left to ship. LightCycle keycaps just came in today so I have another 250 orders of that to push out. Needless to say I'll be pretty busy this weekend.
Post by: kitchenace13 on Fri, 28 July 2017, 17:08:23
If anyone wants a kit, I can sell mine for what I paid + shipping to you when I receive it. Just putting this out there in case anyone is interested.
Hey, I'm quite interested in this!
Post by: KevlarBear on Fri, 28 July 2017, 19:24:21
Post by: yokken on Sat, 29 July 2017, 13:54:22
Post by: ReverbSlush on Mon, 31 July 2017, 07:48:08
It will be my first build... first time soldering a keyboard.. I have some 78g zealios to put on it. I will also want to put the LED on the bottom to go with my acrylic case. I haven't bought the LEDs yet. One step at a time.
This is the layout I'm looking at:
(http://i.imgur.com/rc4GNGG.jpg)
I come from an HHKB, so it will be interesting to see how the arrows work for me. Finding the right sized keycaps might be a challenge!
I'm not entirely sure what to do with the split spacebar. My initial thought is to have the middle button be END and the key directly to the left of it be SHIFT+HOME. When programming, I find myself needing to highlight an entire line a lot. I don't know if it's possible with the firmware though.
Post by: evangs on Mon, 31 July 2017, 08:12:54
Post by: evangs on Mon, 31 July 2017, 09:08:57
Mine should arrive today!
It will be my first build... first time soldering a keyboard.. I have some 78g zealios to put on it. I will also want to put the LED on the bottom to go with my acrylic case. I haven't bought the LEDs yet. One step at a time.
This is the layout I'm looking at:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/rc4GNGG.jpg)
I come from an HHKB, so it will be interesting to see how the arrows work for me. Finding the right sized keycaps might be a challenge!
I'm not entirely sure what to do with the split spacebar. My initial thought is to have the middle button be END and the key directly to the left of it be SHIFT+HOME. When programming, I find myself needing to highlight an entire line a lot. I don't know if it's possible with the firmware though.
That should be possible although I might need to put out an update to allow it through the ui
Post by: sithlord on Tue, 01 August 2017, 01:23:13
28% Shipped
Woohoo :thumb:, getting there. Thanks evangs for the update.
Post by: ctrl on Tue, 01 August 2017, 01:33:51
Mine should arrive today!
It will be my first build... first time soldering a keyboard.. I have some 78g zealios to put on it. I will also want to put the LED on the bottom to go with my acrylic case. I haven't bought the LEDs yet. One step at a time.
Same here! I ordered an XD60 long before finding the BananaSplit60 and I'm considering using the grey XD60 case with ghetto underglow. If I can find a willing seller for the VE.A bars I didn't get, I'll use the DSA Miami Dolch keycaps to match the case. Undecided on switches. Received a Clueboard switch tester kit yesterday and found to my surprise that I really like the smoothness of Gateron blacks (never thought I'd be a fan of linear switches), but I might prefer a slightly heavier spring.
Post by: kmba on Tue, 01 August 2017, 06:44:18
Post by: evangs on Tue, 01 August 2017, 09:33:23
1. That buy has been in progress for several more months
2. Those sets are much easier to ship
I am working hard to get them out quickly so I can return attention to BananaSplits. The BananaSplits take two steps, the first being packing each kit (PCB, Plate, Stabs and sticker) and then packing in boxes and labeling.
I'm hoping to finish up LC tonight which then means I have the rest of the week to finish up BananaSplits.
For reference there are about 430 total orders between the two buys. I am roughly 55% complete and only started shipping on Friday last week.
Thank you for your patience, these will be going out soon :thumb:
Post by: rrrsss on Tue, 01 August 2017, 22:56:15
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 02 August 2017, 05:14:35
Gat black+spring swap. Think I'm going lubed silent blacks and also with the xd60 case from massdrop. Going to sell the xd60 pcb and plate, I just wanted the case
I see I'm not alone in choosing the XD60 case before its PCB and plate! What spring weights are you going for?
Post by: kmba on Wed, 02 August 2017, 07:32:09
Gat black+spring swap. Think I'm going lubed silent blacks and also with the xd60 case from massdrop. Going to sell the xd60 pcb and plate, I just wanted the case
I see I'm not alone in choosing the XD60 case before its PCB and plate! What spring weights are you going for?
I think probably stock spring. I already have gat black and vintage black boards so I want something heavier.
Post by: evangs on Wed, 02 August 2017, 21:18:37
Thank you for your patience, we are almost there!
Post by: iFreilicht on Thu, 03 August 2017, 03:08:42
Great news! I finished LightCycle shipping. Which means I can jump back on BananaSplits!!! I've got 144 orders to ship and should be done by the end of the week.
Thank you for your patience, we are almost there!
Awesome! Can't wait for mine to arrive! :D
Post by: tristinDLC on Thu, 03 August 2017, 03:33:38
Great news! I finished LightCycle shipping.
Did there happen to be additional LC kits available at all?
Post by: chuckdee on Thu, 03 August 2017, 08:27:08
Great news! I finished LightCycle shipping.
Did there happen to be additional LC kits available at all?
There are extras, and will be posted on his shop. Sign up for the mailing list to get first notification.
https://thevankeyboards.com/
(All mentioned above in the thread, and on the lightcycle thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=87050.msg2467191#msg2467191)...)
Post by: evangs on Thu, 03 August 2017, 09:12:34
Great news! I finished LightCycle shipping.
Did there happen to be additional LC kits available at all?
there are only a few extras, I'm waiting for people to get their kits and make sure no one needs a replacement or anything and then I will figure out how to sell them. I'm thinking of possibly doing a raffle style sale since there are so few kits left.
Post by: e996 on Thu, 03 August 2017, 10:45:23
(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
Post by: evangs on Thu, 03 August 2017, 11:08:11
I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
that looks goooood! nice build :thumb:
Post by: e996 on Thu, 03 August 2017, 11:48:30
thank you!! i'll post more pictures when the keycaps arrive :)I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
that looks goooood! nice build :thumb:
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 03 August 2017, 12:20:24
That's a beautiful board, glad you're enjoying it :Dthank you!! i'll post more pictures when the keycaps arrive :)I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
that looks goooood! nice build :thumb:
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: menuhin on Thu, 03 August 2017, 12:45:59
I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
For the mill max sockets, are they hotswappable? What size of mill max do you use?
Do you mind sharing your source?
I have been thinking to try Holtites on it.
Post by: waqar on Thu, 03 August 2017, 12:52:38
Configuration needs little bit of work, issues I had:
1) When I choose split right shift, cannot change the L1 to "UP
2) Cannot change the Caps lock key to L1
3) Cannot change Middle spacebar key to any of the L functions
configurator merged into the main QMK code?
Thanks for the great board
Post by: e996 on Thu, 03 August 2017, 12:57:09
That's a beautiful board, glad you're enjoying it :Dthank you!! i'll post more pictures when the keycaps arrive :)I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
that looks goooood! nice build :thumb:
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
thank you :3
yes, they are hotswappable! I bought mine from a recent group buy here https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6icgx4/ic_millmax_pin_receptacle_switch_hotswap_sockets/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6icgx4/ic_millmax_pin_receptacle_switch_hotswap_sockets/)I got my board and plate yesterday! super high quality, it was amazing to build with. the firmware configurator worked awesome as well. I installed mill max sockets for the switches, they all fit perfectly. currently waiting for more keycaps to arrive, but I couldn't wait to set it up :DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/l13TrzM.jpg)
thanks for running the group buy yall :)
For the mill max sockets, are they hotswappable? What size of mill max do you use?
Do you mind sharing your source?
I have been thinking to try Holtites on it.
but you can buy them here on their own. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940 (https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mill-max-manufacturing-corp/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940)
these are the kind that still require soldering! i found that the easiest thing to do is put the sockets into the switch pin holes, then put the switch in, then solder the sockets in place from the underside of the board. otherwise they'll just come back out when you remove the switch
Post by: evangs on Thu, 03 August 2017, 13:07:27
I got my board yesterday, quality feels solid. Will be building mine over the weekend. Gateron Greens, with sip sockets for LEDs.
Configuration needs little bit of work, issues I had:
1) When I choose split right shift, cannot change the L1 to "UP
2) Cannot change the Caps lock key to L1
3) Cannot change Middle spacebar key to any of the L functions
configurator merged into the main QMK code?
Thanks for the great board
can you share the raw output of your layout from the configurator so I can take a look?
Edit: are you using the right click context menu?
Post by: waqar on Thu, 03 August 2017, 14:06:11
That was the key (see what I did there) I am all set there. Thanks for the quick response.I got my board yesterday, quality feels solid. Will be building mine over the weekend. Gateron Greens, with sip sockets for LEDs.
Configuration needs little bit of work, issues I had:
1) When I choose split right shift, cannot change the L1 to "UP
2) Cannot change the Caps lock key to L1
3) Cannot change Middle spacebar key to any of the L functions
configurator merged into the main QMK code?
Thanks for the great board
can you share the raw output of your layout from the configurator so I can take a look?
Edit: are you using the right click context menu?
Post by: ctrl on Fri, 04 August 2017, 04:35:33
Oblotzky just replied that SA Oblivion will include a 1.25u blank spacekey! Added to all offered colorways!
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84978.msg2469859#msg2469859 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=84978.msg2469859#msg2469859)
This will complete a 2.25u + 1.25u + 2.75u unbroken blank spacekeys section on the BananaSplit60! :cool:
Post by: pvd on Fri, 04 August 2017, 05:53:32
Post by: menuhin on Fri, 04 August 2017, 07:46:24
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 04 August 2017, 09:33:58
Can someone remind me if QMK is ported to support BananaSplit60 already?
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
there is a qmk port in progress, but the tap feature you described is supported by both tmk and the configurator!
Post by: TheGreatJoshua17 on Fri, 04 August 2017, 10:34:58
Can someone remind me if QMK is ported to support BananaSplit60 already?
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
there is a qmk port in progress, but the tap feature you described is supported by both tmk and the configurator!
Quick question, if I use the tap key mode to with L1 as the mod key, will that L1 act as a toggle or momentary? Also what does the one shot modifier mode do? Is there somewhere I missed that has all this information and more already? Thanks evangs! I'm hyped to get my kit in!
Post by: evangs on Fri, 04 August 2017, 12:06:21
Can someone remind me if QMK is ported to support BananaSplit60 already?
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
there is a qmk port in progress, but the tap feature you described is supported by both tmk and the configurator!
Quick question, if I use the tap key mode to with L1 as the mod key, will that L1 act as a toggle or momentary? Also what does the one shot modifier mode do? Is there somewhere I missed that has all this information and more already? Thanks evangs! I'm hyped to get my kit in!
With tap key the mod with always be momentary so L1 would be momentary. One shot mods work like this. You press the key and then you can release, the next key presses will be as if you had been holding that mod down. So press ctrl, release, press c - end result of ctrl + c.
Post by: chuckdee on Fri, 04 August 2017, 12:26:33
Can someone remind me if QMK is ported to support BananaSplit60 already?
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
there is a qmk port in progress, but the tap feature you described is supported by both tmk and the configurator!
Quick question, if I use the tap key mode to with L1 as the mod key, will that L1 act as a toggle or momentary? Also what does the one shot modifier mode do? Is there somewhere I missed that has all this information and more already? Thanks evangs! I'm hyped to get my kit in!
With tap key the mod with always be momentary so L1 would be momentary. One shot mods work like this. You press the key and then you can release, the next key presses will be as if you had been holding that mod down. So press ctrl, release, press c - end result of ctrl + c.
What i like to do is have dual function keys based on tap/hold. My tab is tab if tapped, and meh if held. left shift is shift if held, and enter if tapped. And so on. Is that supported in the configurator?
Post by: evangs on Fri, 04 August 2017, 12:43:54
Can someone remind me if QMK is ported to support BananaSplit60 already?
You know, the right R_Shift option will be handy with QMK: Tapping = ? or / and Holding = R_Shift
I believe this feature is not supported by the TMK.
there is a qmk port in progress, but the tap feature you described is supported by both tmk and the configurator!
Quick question, if I use the tap key mode to with L1 as the mod key, will that L1 act as a toggle or momentary? Also what does the one shot modifier mode do? Is there somewhere I missed that has all this information and more already? Thanks evangs! I'm hyped to get my kit in!
With tap key the mod with always be momentary so L1 would be momentary. One shot mods work like this. You press the key and then you can release, the next key presses will be as if you had been holding that mod down. So press ctrl, release, press c - end result of ctrl + c.
What i like to do is have dual function keys based on tap/hold. My tab is tab if tapped, and meh if held. left shift is shift if held, and enter if tapped. And so on. Is that supported in the configurator?
yes, I use many keys in the same fashion. on my minivan I have the right hand function key be fn1 if held an quote if tapped. on the left hand function key its fn1 if held and esc if tapped
Post by: KevlarBear on Fri, 04 August 2017, 13:15:25
(http://imgur.com/al87hQE.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, standard arrows
(http://imgur.com/Y4a5euI.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, alt arrows
(http://imgur.com/XfS1qLx.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, standard arrows
(http://imgur.com/eI6LXTO.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, alt arrows
I’m leaning towards the right 2.75u space with standard arrows layout since this board will mainly be used on my gaming machine and having that key between the space bars more easily accessible by my thumb could be nice. Either way, looking forward to build this!
Post by: sithlord on Fri, 04 August 2017, 13:18:24
Having a hard time trying to decide between these 4 possible layouts with my upcoming BS60 and GMK Nautilus buildShow Image(http://imgur.com/XfS1qLx.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, standard arrows
I’m leaning towards the right 2.75u space with standard arrows layout since this board will mainly be used on my gaming machine and having that key between the space bars more easily accessible by my thumb could be nice. Either way, looking forward to build this!
I'm going with #3 for my build. Expected to replace the WhiteFox.
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 04 August 2017, 13:58:43
Having a hard time trying to decide between these 4 possible layouts with my upcoming BS60 and GMK Nautilus buildRight 2.75 is the way to go, but both work really well. For gaming it works amazingly, using it as a voice comms button.Show Image(http://imgur.com/al87hQE.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, standard arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/Y4a5euI.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, alt arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/XfS1qLx.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, standard arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/eI6LXTO.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, alt arrows
I’m leaning towards the right 2.75u space with standard arrows layout since this board will mainly be used on my gaming machine and having that key between the space bars more easily accessible by my thumb could be nice. Either way, looking forward to build this!
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: e996 on Fri, 04 August 2017, 15:01:21
Having a hard time trying to decide between these 4 possible layouts with my upcoming BS60 and GMK Nautilus buildShow Image(http://imgur.com/al87hQE.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, standard arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/Y4a5euI.jpg)
Left 2.75u space, alt arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/XfS1qLx.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, standard arrowsShow Image(http://imgur.com/eI6LXTO.jpg)
Right 2.75u space, alt arrows
I’m leaning towards the right 2.75u space with standard arrows layout since this board will mainly be used on my gaming machine and having that key between the space bars more easily accessible by my thumb could be nice. Either way, looking forward to build this!
I have mine set up with left 2.75u and standard arrows. I find that with my hands in a natural position my thumbs are more centered on the spacebars this way :3
Post by: menuhin on Fri, 04 August 2017, 15:03:41
This is how I may build mine:
(http://i.imgur.com/P0cef1u.png)
Have been thinking about how a Banana-keyboard will look like.
More
(http://ictinternational.com/content/uploads/2015/01/Figure4.jpg)
Post by: Str1pez on Fri, 04 August 2017, 17:48:07
Post by: e996 on Fri, 04 August 2017, 17:57:07
Hey so I made my layout with the configurator but how do I flash my .hex onto the keyboard itself? The page didn't have instructions on that part.https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide (https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide) has a lot of helpful information :)
Post by: Str1pez on Fri, 04 August 2017, 18:26:31
Hey so I made my layout with the configurator but how do I flash my .hex onto the keyboard itself? The page didn't have instructions on that part.https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide (https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide) has a lot of helpful information :)
Righteous, this is perfect thanks!
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 04 August 2017, 20:08:13
And I hit the space bar only with my left thumb... :p
This is how I may build mine:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P0cef1u.png)
Have been thinking about how a Banana-keyboard will look like.MoreShow Image(http://ictinternational.com/content/uploads/2015/01/Figure4.jpg)
Awesome man, that's the versatility of the board :D
I asked you on the other IC thread but for the tina case will you offer the base variant with no blockers, I'd like to pick one or two up for some bananasplit builds :D
Post by: menuhin on Fri, 04 August 2017, 20:26:55
And I hit the space bar only with my left thumb... :p
This is how I may build mine:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/P0cef1u.png)
Have been thinking about how a Banana-keyboard will look like.MoreShow Image(http://ictinternational.com/content/uploads/2015/01/Figure4.jpg)
Awesome man, that's the versatility of the board :D
I asked you on the other IC thread but for the tina case will you offer the base variant with no blockers, I'd like to pick one or two up for some bananasplit builds :D
You who are buying more than 1 case definitely have the right to ask the vendor. I am just facilitating it to happen. The vendor Wei actually wanted to raise this super bargaining price of $85 for the TINA-YAS62 but I told him that many people have already signed up for this price and it will be nice stay with the initial offer.
So for those who are joining the GB of Tina-YAS62 case, in the name of combined shipping, can totally ask for adding a regular version case with some discount for the BananaSplit60 - and this is the reason I added the section to add requests and questions to the vendor.
Post by: Undrcontrl on Sat, 05 August 2017, 00:01:16
Good job on getting these out evang! Still, I see these awesome builds and I must be one of the 144 still to go =/
SO READY
Post by: Shell058 on Sat, 05 August 2017, 09:50:02
DANG IT!!
Good job on getting these out evang! Still, I see these awesome builds and I must be one of the 144 still to go =/
SO READY
Me too! I just got my Wenge hardwood case from Massdrop and it's gorgeous, can't wait to build it. Should probably lube switches today... and cross my fingers for a shipping notification!
Post by: TheGreatJoshua17 on Sun, 06 August 2017, 19:38:51
Post by: evangs on Sun, 06 August 2017, 23:27:47
Any shipping updates jefe?
Got a bunch of orders processed this weekend and now we are at 73% shipped. Only 48 orders left.
(https://i.imgur.com/4d9EdxI.jpg)
Post by: neorobo on Mon, 07 August 2017, 15:46:41
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 07 August 2017, 15:54:51
Will there be any leftovers?Yes but really not that many, follow the vankeyboards newsletter to get notified when the additional sale happens. We'll be hosting a round 2 pretty soon :)
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: sithlord on Mon, 07 August 2017, 22:50:15
Checked the PCB and everything looks good.
Now I need to get the springs swapped and SIP switches installed. :p
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 07 August 2017, 23:28:22
I got my PCB and plate in the mail today.Awesome, post the finished product here :D
Checked the PCB and everything looks good.
Now I need to get the springs swapped and SIP switches installed.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pvd on Tue, 08 August 2017, 06:19:04
I'm excited for mine! :thumb:
Post by: evangs on Tue, 08 August 2017, 08:46:29
Will the rest be shipped by the end of this week?
I'm excited for mine! :thumb:
Yes, I got the remaining stabilizer kits sorted out last night and tonight/tomorrow I will be packing and shipping the remaining orders.
Post by: evangs on Wed, 09 August 2017, 21:23:26
Post by: ChitownM2 on Wed, 09 August 2017, 21:31:34
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 09 August 2017, 22:11:11
Post by: vim_commando on Wed, 09 August 2017, 23:46:48
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: ifernz on Thu, 10 August 2017, 02:04:55
Soldered on my switches (Zealios) plugged it in to test, and nothing...
Is there an additional step I need to take to get this bad boy going?
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 10 August 2017, 02:09:05
Received my PCB today, super excited!
Soldered on my switches (Zealios) plugged it in to test, and nothing...
Is there an additional step I need to take to get this bad boy going?
You'll need to flash it, go through this programming guide and use the keyboard configurator. Let us know if you have any more questions :D
https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide
http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/
Post by: pvd on Thu, 10 August 2017, 16:35:30
I've got everything lined up. I can't waitttttt :D :D
Post by: kmba on Thu, 10 August 2017, 17:33:10
Post by: evangs on Thu, 10 August 2017, 22:05:39
We did it guys! thank you for all the support!
Post by: sithlord on Thu, 10 August 2017, 22:24:35
But it is done. :))
http://imgur.com/a/oQSIV
I messed up the bottom row and ended up with a gap...but I'm to lazy to care at this point...ha
Expect to change key caps later on.
Only issue I had is that the PCB is just a hair off for 1 screw on the TEX case and wood Datamancer case.
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 10 August 2017, 22:30:19
I finished building my Banana Split....did a live stream of the build and messed up a few things... :p
But it is done. :))
http://imgur.com/a/oQSIV
I messed up the bottom row and ended up with a gap...but I'm to lazy to care at this point...ha
Expect to change key caps later on.
Only issue I had is that the PCB is just a hair off for 1 screw on the TEX case and wood Datamancer case.
Looks awesome, as for the screw. We tested it with TEX cases and it works perfectly. Slightly unscrew all of the screws and realign the board it should line up with that hole.
Don't be lazy desolder that key, that gap is killing me :eek:
Post by: sithlord on Thu, 10 August 2017, 23:27:48
Looks awesome, as for the screw. We tested it with TEX cases and it works perfectly. Slightly unscrew all of the screws and realign the board it should line up with that hole.
Don't be lazy desolder that key, that gap is killing me :eek:
I'll try that with the screw again.
I can desolder the key...it's the stabilizers I don't want to mess with...
Edit: Or did you mean to move the middle key?
I've moved the middle key, new layout uploaded to album.
Also moved the PCB and top plate around, it looks like it may have fallen into a "groove" and now I got all screws locked into the case. Thanks. :thumb:
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 11 August 2017, 00:10:59
Oh I see you have the plate in place, then yeah your best bet would be to move the middle key.
Looks awesome, as for the screw. We tested it with TEX cases and it works perfectly. Slightly unscrew all of the screws and realign the board it should line up with that hole.
Don't be lazy desolder that key, that gap is killing me :eek:
I'll try that with the screw again.
I can desolder the key...it's the stabilizers I don't want to mess with...
Edit: Or did you mean to move the middle key?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: pvd on Fri, 11 August 2017, 22:37:20
Post by: evangs on Fri, 11 August 2017, 23:33:27
I just realized that these are south mounted switches... the bane of my existence. My fault entirely for not looking closer at the PCB before purchasing but still... can't put my gmk set on it now. :'(
I'm using a GMK set with no issues...
Post by: Cotay on Sat, 12 August 2017, 02:21:17
I just realized that these are south mounted switches... the bane of my existence. My fault entirely for not looking closer at the PCB before purchasing but still... can't put my gmk set on it now. :'(
I have plenty of builds with south LEDs that are outfitted with GMK caps. If you are worried about clearance, use 1.8mm LEDs.
Post by: beekey on Sat, 12 August 2017, 06:27:43
Would it be possible to add some key codes? I´m looking for the KC_SYSTEM_POWER/SLEEP/WAKE commands I know from QMK (https://docs.qmk.fm/basic_keycodes.html#commands).
Really looking forward in building this next week. :-)
Post by: evangs on Sat, 12 August 2017, 07:45:40
In anticipation of the delivery of the BanaSplit, I played with the layout/firmware editor http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/.
Would it be possible to add some key codes? I´m looking for the KC_SYSTEM_POWER/SLEEP/WAKE commands I know from QMK (https://docs.qmk.fm/basic_keycodes.html#commands).
Really looking forward in building this next week. :-)
The configurator uses TMK currently but that code should still be available, i can look at adding them but I also accept PRs :)
Post by: evangs on Sat, 12 August 2017, 07:47:23
I just realized that these are south mounted switches... the bane of my existence. My fault entirely for not looking closer at the PCB before purchasing but still... can't put my gmk set on it now. :'(
I have plenty of builds with south LEDs that are outfitted with GMK caps. If you are worried about clearance, use 1.8mm LEDs.
Another option if you have clear tips is to put 2x3x4 LEDs inside the switch, then you can still easily open switch tops later on without desoldering and it is also very clean looking.
Post by: chuckdee on Sat, 12 August 2017, 10:30:05
Post by: donut_sauce on Sat, 12 August 2017, 11:29:04
Do any keycaps sets actually come with enough extra 2.25/1.25/2.75 keys? If not are most ppl just buying another set?
Post by: kmba on Sat, 12 August 2017, 12:17:26
This'll be my first build and first time buying a keycap set with legends - (all my other keyboards use blanks).
Do any keycaps sets actually come with enough extra 2.25/1.25/2.75 keys? If not are most ppl just buying another set?
Depends. You'll need basically a 2.75 right shift (if you use a 1.75u right shift like lots of boards these days, you'll be good there), then a 2.25, usually a spare enter key. Lots of sets come with an accent enter, so you might be ok there too.
Post by: kawasaki161 on Sat, 12 August 2017, 13:20:28
This'll be my first build and first time buying a keycap set with legends - (all my other keyboards use blanks).
Do any keycaps sets actually come with enough extra 2.25/1.25/2.75 keys? If not are most ppl just buying another set?
Depends. You'll need basically a 2.75 right shift (if you use a 1.75u right shift like lots of boards these days, you'll be good there), then a 2.25, usually a spare enter key. Lots of sets come with an accent enter, so you might be ok there too.
Every set with 660 layout support will also come with an extra 2.25u shift.
Post by: evangs on Sat, 12 August 2017, 13:38:05
So, quick question. I've never soldered LEDs- it's always seemed a waste, especially as most caps don't have bleed through. Since I'm going with the ghetto option for underlighting, I'm assuming that the two small holes on the top of each switch is for LEDs? And does polarity matter?
Yes those small holes are for LEDs. Polarity does matter. The circle is positive (long leg of led)
Post by: ctrl on Mon, 14 August 2017, 07:47:30
Post by: vim_commando on Mon, 14 August 2017, 19:27:30
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
Post by: Cotay on Mon, 14 August 2017, 21:35:44
Post by: pvd on Tue, 15 August 2017, 06:13:59
I just realized that these are south mounted switches... the bane of my existence. My fault entirely for not looking closer at the PCB before purchasing but still... can't put my gmk set on it now. :'(
I have plenty of builds with south LEDs that are outfitted with GMK caps. If you are worried about clearance, use 1.8mm LEDs.
I've had issues in the past with south facing cherry housings not having enough clearance for thick cherry keycaps. The keycaps I stuck on my board seem to be doing okay though, so its all good :)
http://imgur.com/a/hW8Vv
Easy to build and feels good to type on. Good group buy!
Post by: evangs on Tue, 15 August 2017, 10:35:19
Doing some prep work for my build; I'm using the TMK Configurator and I'm looking for the "Brightness Up" and "Brightness Down" commands (to adjust the monitor brightness, not keyboard LEDs). The Input Club Configurator (https://input.club/configurator/) I used for my Infinity lists these as SCRN+ and SCRN-.
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
they have not been added yet. I can get to them eventually, but if there is someone with some developer skills out there, I do accept PRs
Post by: beeull on Tue, 15 August 2017, 12:54:08
- First time soldering, first ground-up kb build, yay!
- Figured out the flow (pun intended?) of soldering pretty quickly, yay!
- Built with 2.75/1.25/2.25 space layout, Keyboard flashed and tested perfectly
- Using for a bit I realized that I'd guessed wrong and ergonomics for my hands would be better with the middle key as the space bar at 2.25/1.25/2.75 positions instead, boo!
- Tried desoldering just the stabilized keys to see whether the wide plate holes allowed the stabilizers to lever out of place and reinstall, but no dice (boo!)
- Desoldered and removed bottom row of switches and started into the alphanumerics testing whether plate and pcb allowed enough flex for juuuust that little bit of extra needed, but decided not to risk anything (booyay?)
- Noticed that one of the bottom row switches I had removed had some copper appearance on switch leg, it seems I'd lifted a pad! (boo!)
- Desoldered all switches across board and began systematically (and more carefully) removing them, working from bottom row upward (Smooth working thanks Engineer SS-02 solder sucker, yay!)
- Was able to leave top two rows' switches installed and separate plate from pcb enough to shift the stabilized keys positions (yay!)
- Reinstalled switches, re-soldered, smooth sailing (yay!)
- Plugged keyboard back into computer to test, all keys to right of middle spacebar key are dead (boo!)
- Checked soldering, reflowed affected keys, no improvement... it appears the pad I ruined was load bearing! (boo!)
- Time to desolder entire keyboard and disassemble again (boo!), but at least it went smoothly and no more desoldering mistakes (yay!)
- Testing the pcb by shorting across pads, testing for shorts/continuity with multimeter, and by applying my remedial "how do keyboard?" knowledge, it seems I'd lost connection across the ground plane(?) of the bottom row (booyay?)
- First try running a wire from an unused pad to the left of center across to a pad right of center has so far not been a complete success... Right hand space bar is still dead, modifier keys on right side function but I appear to be getting ghost presses on multi-press rollover situations (boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
Post by: evangs on Tue, 15 August 2017, 13:40:17
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
- First time soldering, first ground-up kb build, yay!
- Figured out the flow (pun intended?) of soldering pretty quickly, yay!
- Built with 2.75/1.25/2.25 space layout, Keyboard flashed and tested perfectly
- Using for a bit I realized that I'd guessed wrong and ergonomics for my hands would be better with the middle key as the space bar at 2.25/1.25/2.75 positions instead, boo!
- Tried desoldering just the stabilized keys to see whether the wide plate holes allowed the stabilizers to lever out of place and reinstall, but no dice (boo!)
- Desoldered and removed bottom row of switches and started into the alphanumerics testing whether plate and pcb allowed enough flex for juuuust that little bit of extra needed, but decided not to risk anything (booyay?)
- Noticed that one of the bottom row switches I had removed had some copper appearance on switch leg, it seems I'd lifted a pad! (boo!)
- Desoldered all switches across board and began systematically (and more carefully) removing them, working from bottom row upward (Smooth working thanks Engineer SS-02 solder sucker, yay!)
- Was able to leave top two rows' switches installed and separate plate from pcb enough to shift the stabilized keys positions (yay!)
- Reinstalled switches, re-soldered, smooth sailing (yay!)
- Plugged keyboard back into computer to test, all keys to right of middle spacebar key are dead (boo!)
- Checked soldering, reflowed affected keys, no improvement... it appears the pad I ruined was load bearing! (boo!)
- Time to desolder entire keyboard and disassemble again (boo!), but at least it went smoothly and no more desoldering mistakes (yay!)
- Testing the pcb by shorting across pads, testing for shorts/continuity with multimeter, and by applying my remedial "how do keyboard?" knowledge, it seems I'd lost connection across the ground plane(?) of the bottom row (booyay?)
- First try running a wire from an unused pad to the left of center across to a pad right of center has so far not been a complete success... Right hand space bar is still dead, modifier keys on right side function but I appear to be getting ghost presses on multi-press rollover situations (boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Post by: vim_commando on Tue, 15 August 2017, 13:59:20
Doing some prep work for my build; I'm using the TMK Configurator and I'm looking for the "Brightness Up" and "Brightness Down" commands (to adjust the monitor brightness, not keyboard LEDs). The Input Club Configurator (https://input.club/configurator/) I used for my Infinity lists these as SCRN+ and SCRN-.
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
they have not been added yet. I can get to them eventually, but if there is someone with some developer skills out there, I do accept PRs
What's the repo? I'd be happy to take a look.
Post by: beeull on Tue, 15 August 2017, 14:13:29
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:
<snip_to_TLDR>
TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Thanks, Evan... I'll take some pics when I get home this evening
Post by: evangs on Tue, 15 August 2017, 15:53:56
Doing some prep work for my build; I'm using the TMK Configurator and I'm looking for the "Brightness Up" and "Brightness Down" commands (to adjust the monitor brightness, not keyboard LEDs). The Input Club Configurator (https://input.club/configurator/) I used for my Infinity lists these as SCRN+ and SCRN-.
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
they have not been added yet. I can get to them eventually, but if there is someone with some developer skills out there, I do accept PRs
What's the repo? I'd be happy to take a look.
it should be relatively easy to follow but if you have any questions, feel free to hit me up. https://github.com/evangs/MiniVanConfigurator (https://github.com/evangs/MiniVanConfigurator)
Post by: beeull on Tue, 15 August 2017, 17:25:23
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:
<snip_to_TLDR>
TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Thanks, Evan... I'll take some pics when I get home this evening
Pics are up at http://imgur.com/a/5FfOX I believe K45 right hand bottom pad is the only one that was damaged, but I'm not 100% sure. I can disassemble further if troubleshooting shows it necessary.
Thanks again for whatever help you're able to give just by eyeballing (and knowledge of the board) :)
Post by: evangs on Tue, 15 August 2017, 17:47:56
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:
<snip_to_TLDR>
TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Thanks, Evan... I'll take some pics when I get home this evening
Pics are up at http://imgur.com/a/5FfOX I believe K45 right hand bottom pad is the only one that was damaged, but I'm not 100% sure. I can disassemble further if troubleshooting shows it necessary.
Thanks again for whatever help you're able to give just by eyeballing (and knowledge of the board) :)
The row signal has been broken by lifting that pad, you will need to connect the trace back together (the wire running underneath the mask.) you will need to expose it by scraping off the mask and then soldering directly to it.
Post by: e996 on Tue, 15 August 2017, 20:25:23
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
Post by: evangs on Tue, 15 August 2017, 23:23:20
I opened mine up to lube the stabilizers, and now when i plug it in it's not recognized by the computer :( Atmel Flip says "com.atmel.flip.IspException: could not open USB device."
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
I'm going to need more info and photos
Post by: e996 on Wed, 16 August 2017, 12:35:41
Here are some more photos..I opened mine up to lube the stabilizers, and now when i plug it in it's not recognized by the computer :( Atmel Flip says "com.atmel.flip.IspException: could not open USB device."
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
I'm going to need more info and photos
(http://i.imgur.com/nxKAjm1.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/FMQ7PQk.jpg)(http://i.imgur.com/UsmSNrH.jpg)
I have holtite sockets installed but a few switches had the pins slightly soldered to the sockets, which meant I still had to desolder (and pry a little) to get them out.
Upon closer inspection it looks like I've broken off the capacitor labelled "C3" :( is there a way I could get around that, or is the board toast?
Post by: evangs on Wed, 16 August 2017, 13:10:43
Here are some more photos..I opened mine up to lube the stabilizers, and now when i plug it in it's not recognized by the computer :( Atmel Flip says "com.atmel.flip.IspException: could not open USB device."
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
I'm going to need more info and photosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nxKAjm1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FMQ7PQk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UsmSNrH.jpg)
I have holtite sockets installed but a few switches had the pins slightly soldered to the sockets, which meant I still had to desolder (and pry a little) to get them out.
Upon closer inspection it looks like I've broken off the capacitor labelled "C3" :( is there a way I could get around that, or is the board toast?
ideally you would reattach that capacitor. You could try bridging the pads with solder and see if it works.
Post by: e996 on Wed, 16 August 2017, 13:32:39
do you mean these pads? like just connect them without the capacitor? I definitely lost it..Here are some more photos..I opened mine up to lube the stabilizers, and now when i plug it in it's not recognized by the computer :( Atmel Flip says "com.atmel.flip.IspException: could not open USB device."
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
I'm going to need more info and photosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nxKAjm1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FMQ7PQk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UsmSNrH.jpg)
I have holtite sockets installed but a few switches had the pins slightly soldered to the sockets, which meant I still had to desolder (and pry a little) to get them out.
Upon closer inspection it looks like I've broken off the capacitor labelled "C3" :( is there a way I could get around that, or is the board toast?
ideally you would reattach that capacitor. You could try bridging the pads with solder and see if it works.
[attach=1]
edit: I connected those two and the keyboard now doesn't show up as a device plugged into the computer, and that connection gets quite hot..
Do you happen to know the specs of that capacitor so I can look for a new one?
Post by: evangs on Wed, 16 August 2017, 15:02:40
do you mean these pads? like just connect them without the capacitor? I definitely lost it..Here are some more photos..I opened mine up to lube the stabilizers, and now when i plug it in it's not recognized by the computer :( Atmel Flip says "com.atmel.flip.IspException: could not open USB device."
windows says it's an unrecognized USB device, and that the "device descriptor request failed."
I had to desolder some switches to get the plate off, but I can't see anything that looks wrong with the board.. is there anything else I should try, or should I assume I have somehow broken it?
I'm going to need more info and photosShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/nxKAjm1.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/FMQ7PQk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UsmSNrH.jpg)
I have holtite sockets installed but a few switches had the pins slightly soldered to the sockets, which meant I still had to desolder (and pry a little) to get them out.
Upon closer inspection it looks like I've broken off the capacitor labelled "C3" :( is there a way I could get around that, or is the board toast?
ideally you would reattach that capacitor. You could try bridging the pads with solder and see if it works.
(Attachment Link)
edit: I connected those two and the keyboard now doesn't show up as a device plugged into the computer, and that connection gets quite hot..
Do you happen to know the specs of that capacitor so I can look for a new one?
you need a 1uf cap, the smd footprint is 0603, but a through hole cap soldered on would work as well (be mindful of clearance with bottom of case). the direct connection may have fried the controller. If soldering on a cap doesn't work, I'll send you a new pcb.
Post by: e996 on Wed, 16 August 2017, 15:56:36
you need a 1uf cap, the smd footprint is 0603, but a through hole cap soldered on would work as well (be mindful of clearance with bottom of case). the direct connection may have fried the controller. If soldering on a cap doesn't work, I'll send you a new pcb.it works!!
[attach=1]
I think I should probably find a new 1uf capacitor ;D this was the only one I had
thank you so much for the help!!
Post by: evangs on Wed, 16 August 2017, 15:59:29
you need a 1uf cap, the smd footprint is 0603, but a through hole cap soldered on would work as well (be mindful of clearance with bottom of case). the direct connection may have fried the controller. If soldering on a cap doesn't work, I'll send you a new pcb.it works!!
(Attachment Link)
I think I should probably find a new 1uf capacitor ;D this was the only one I had
thank you so much for the help!!
excellent!
Post by: iFreilicht on Thu, 17 August 2017, 04:27:33
Doing some prep work for my build; I'm using the TMK Configurator and I'm looking for the "Brightness Up" and "Brightness Down" commands (to adjust the monitor brightness, not keyboard LEDs). The Input Club Configurator (https://input.club/configurator/) I used for my Infinity lists these as SCRN+ and SCRN-.
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
AFAIK, there are no standardised keycodes for brightness control. Does the Infinity require a special driver to be installed?
Post by: vim_commando on Thu, 17 August 2017, 12:16:59
Doing some prep work for my build; I'm using the TMK Configurator and I'm looking for the "Brightness Up" and "Brightness Down" commands (to adjust the monitor brightness, not keyboard LEDs). The Input Club Configurator (https://input.club/configurator/) I used for my Infinity lists these as SCRN+ and SCRN-.
Are these commands missing or am I just not seeing them? :confused:
AFAIK, there are no standardised keycodes for brightness control. Does the Infinity require a special driver to be installed?
Not at all, I've loved it because it was so consistent and portable across computers and OSes. My bananasplit60 will be my second scratch build.
Post by: beeull on Fri, 18 August 2017, 17:01:05
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:
<snip_to_TLDR>
TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Thanks, Evan... I'll take some pics when I get home this evening
Pics are up at http://imgur.com/a/5FfOX I believe K45 right hand bottom pad is the only one that was damaged, but I'm not 100% sure. I can disassemble further if troubleshooting shows it necessary.
Thanks again for whatever help you're able to give just by eyeballing (and knowledge of the board) :)
The row signal has been broken by lifting that pad, you will need to connect the trace back together (the wire running underneath the mask.) you will need to expose it by scraping off the mask and then soldering directly to it.
I believe I have managed to make a successful repair on this end, according to EK Switch Hitter, soldering a fine wire across the lifted trace/pad we both suspected as the issue. I believe that I actually had the situation fixed with my large clumsy soldering with a large paper clip as the jumper from a pad to the left of the break across to a pad several further down the row. The issues I was blaming on unexpected electrical behavior (odd behavior on held keys reminiscent of ghosting or missed presses) were more likely a result of unexpected TMK interactions instead.
Thanks again for your help and quick answers, Evan... and "sorry" for being so busy on my end as to delay the results :D
Post by: evangs on Fri, 18 August 2017, 17:53:35
First of all thanks to Arhipio and evangs for your excellent work bringing us this kit, I'm greatly looking forward to using it! Second of all my story so far:
<snip_to_TLDR>
TL;DR BE CAREFUL EVERYONE when desoldering, double and triple check for lingering connections, and if possible have the proper switch removal tools on hand (I'm still awaiting shipment of an IC puller style remover, but I was impatient, boo!)
I'll try to take pictures or mark up where I think I've ruined my board, maybe with proper knowledge and a better jumpering than I've done so far will have 100% results instead of my partial... I'll try to stay hopeful.
email me pictures of the PCB as high res as possible. I might be able to point out where to run jumpers. and of course if that fails we can look at a replacement pcb. (thevankeyboards@gmail.com)
Thanks, Evan... I'll take some pics when I get home this evening
Pics are up at http://imgur.com/a/5FfOX I believe K45 right hand bottom pad is the only one that was damaged, but I'm not 100% sure. I can disassemble further if troubleshooting shows it necessary.
Thanks again for whatever help you're able to give just by eyeballing (and knowledge of the board) :)
The row signal has been broken by lifting that pad, you will need to connect the trace back together (the wire running underneath the mask.) you will need to expose it by scraping off the mask and then soldering directly to it.
I believe I have managed to make a successful repair on this end, according to EK Switch Hitter, soldering a fine wire across the lifted trace/pad we both suspected as the issue. I believe that I actually had the situation fixed with my large clumsy soldering with a large paper clip as the jumper from a pad to the left of the break across to a pad several further down the row. The issues I was blaming on unexpected electrical behavior (odd behavior on held keys reminiscent of ghosting or missed presses) were more likely a result of unexpected TMK interactions instead.
Thanks again for your help and quick answers, Evan... and "sorry" for being so busy on my end as to delay the results :D
Glad to hear you got it working!
Post by: donut_sauce on Sat, 19 August 2017, 00:05:18
Post by: 8megabit on Sat, 19 August 2017, 04:15:02
Glad to hear you got it working!
Hi Evan! I'm having trouble generating a hex using http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com
It just gives me an error page "The requested URL was not found on the server. If you entered the URL manually please check your spelling and try again."
The url for the download page that gives me that is http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/downloads/bananasplit/bananasplit_2017-08-19-09-13-25.hex
What's wrong?
EDIT: more info: the problem occurs when I change the key to the right of RSHIFT (using split right shift configuration) from L1 to anything else. If I don't change it I can generate hex. Also, why is the corner of this key red?
Post by: sithlord on Sun, 20 August 2017, 01:14:11
Glad to hear you got it working!
Hi Evan! I'm having trouble generating a hex using http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com
It just gives me an error page "The requested URL was not found on the server. If you entered the URL manually please check your spelling and try again."
The url for the download page that gives me that is http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/downloads/bananasplit/bananasplit_2017-08-19-09-13-25.hex
What's wrong?
EDIT: more info: the problem occurs when I change the key to the right of RSHIFT (using split right shift configuration) from L1 to anything else. If I don't change it I can generate hex. Also, why is the corner of this key red?
Are you changing it using the right click on your mouse or typing it in? You'll need to right click your mouse.
Post by: evangs on Sun, 20 August 2017, 08:15:55
Glad to hear you got it working!
Hi Evan! I'm having trouble generating a hex using http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com
It just gives me an error page "The requested URL was not found on the server. If you entered the URL manually please check your spelling and try again."
The url for the download page that gives me that is http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/downloads/bananasplit/bananasplit_2017-08-19-09-13-25.hex
What's wrong?
EDIT: more info: the problem occurs when I change the key to the right of RSHIFT (using split right shift configuration) from L1 to anything else. If I don't change it I can generate hex. Also, why is the corner of this key red?
You need to change the key type by right clicking the key and using the context menu. I'm working on a new version of the configurator that should make this stuff a bit more apparent
Post by: evangs on Sun, 20 August 2017, 08:16:57
Any info on what's up next for The Van Keyboards? maybe another round of minivans:-)
I just got some MiniVans in yesterday, should have them on the site this week
Post by: child on Sun, 20 August 2017, 09:06:40
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 20 August 2017, 14:49:04
What about BananaSplit extras?
Follow the newsletter at thevankeyboards.com
We will announce the sale through there. The quantity will be extremely limited.
Post by: 8megabit on Mon, 21 August 2017, 04:53:41
Glad to hear you got it working!
Hi Evan! I'm having trouble generating a hex using http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com
It just gives me an error page "The requested URL was not found on the server. If you entered the URL manually please check your spelling and try again."
The url for the download page that gives me that is http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com/downloads/bananasplit/bananasplit_2017-08-19-09-13-25.hex
What's wrong?
EDIT: more info: the problem occurs when I change the key to the right of RSHIFT (using split right shift configuration) from L1 to anything else. If I don't change it I can generate hex. Also, why is the corner of this key red?
You need to change the key type by right clicking the key and using the context menu. I'm working on a new version of the configurator that should make this stuff a bit more apparent
Ah, I see. Thanks
Post by: donut_sauce on Tue, 22 August 2017, 20:05:48
Any info on what's up next for The Van Keyboards? maybe another round of minivans:-)
I just got some MiniVans in yesterday, should have them on the site this week
oh no! i can't buy anything for a couple weeks! prolly gonna miss this round. hopefully some will come around again in Sept/Oct?
Just built my banana split. will try to post some pictures tomorrow. It's taking a bit getting used to the split. never realized that I use both my thumbs for the space bar till now.
Couple questions- do i need to "reset" the pcb everytime i flash a new hex? and is there a way via the configurator to make a key that would be CTRL and SHIFT together?
Post by: evangs on Tue, 22 August 2017, 20:50:25
Any info on what's up next for The Van Keyboards? maybe another round of minivans:-)
I just got some MiniVans in yesterday, should have them on the site this week
oh no! i can't buy anything for a couple weeks! prolly gonna miss this round. hopefully some will come around again in Sept/Oct?
Just built my banana split. will try to post some pictures tomorrow. It's taking a bit getting used to the split. never realized that I use both my thumbs for the space bar till now.
Couple questions- do i need to "reset" the pcb everytime i flash a new hex? and is there a way via the configurator to make a key that would be CTRL and SHIFT together?
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Post by: Nuum on Wed, 23 August 2017, 03:42:31
Post by: kawasaki161 on Wed, 23 August 2017, 04:40:41
My parcel seems to be stuck in German customs since the 8th of August, which is unusually long. Normally they deliver it to you right away and ask for the fee at your door or they send you a letter asking you to pick up your parcel. I don't mean to offend you, but did you declare customs properly for international parcels?For mine he put the price of the item (without shipping) on the customs form, no invoice included.
German customs is a cluster**** right now, I don't know what the heck they are pushing but my local customs office told me they've never been that busy since 2010. I also haven't paid for a package (that was not sent via DHL express or UPS express) at the door since November, I always had to go to the customs office, no matter what. It's getting really annoying but there's nothing we can do.
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 23 August 2017, 07:26:50
I hope Evan remembered doing that, other than that there is absolutely no further news about the shipment.
Post by: donut_sauce on Wed, 23 August 2017, 10:00:55
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: kitchenace13 on Wed, 23 August 2017, 10:49:04
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
The blanks on the bottom row look like GMK/Cherry profile? Wondering where you got them from? Just curious.
Post by: donut_sauce on Wed, 23 August 2017, 11:14:31
The blanks on the bottom row look like GMK/Cherry profile? Wondering where you got them from? Just curious.
yup cherry profile. here's the link (https://kbdfans.cn/collections/keycaps/products/enjoypbt-cmyw?variant=36742237837)
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 23 August 2017, 11:42:02
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
(Attachment Link)
Oh hey! I've been considering those Box Dark Yellows for this build too! Never thought either I'd be into linears, but after trying Gateron Blacks on a switch tester, I got sucked in by the smoothness. Would like something heavier though, like just slightly lighter than MX Tactile Grays. How's the weight on these?
Post by: donut_sauce on Wed, 23 August 2017, 12:50:18
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
(Attachment Link)
Oh hey! I've been considering those Box Dark Yellows for this build too! Never thought either I'd be into linears, but after trying Gateron Blacks on a switch tester, I got sucked in by the smoothness. Would like something heavier though, like just slightly lighter than MX Tactile Grays. How's the weight on these?
it's good. i like it. i think i'd like to try an even heavier switch for my next build. one thing i didn't realize when i got them is that they are plate mount only which was a bit tricky on this plate as far as getting the modifiers super straight
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 23 August 2017, 12:53:53
Yeah that tends to happen with a universal plate. Luckily with pcb mounted switches you can align them really well in combination with the plate. Box switches are definitely my new favorite switch, hoping they come out with pcb mounted ones.
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
(Attachment Link)
Oh hey! I've been considering those Box Dark Yellows for this build too! Never thought either I'd be into linears, but after trying Gateron Blacks on a switch tester, I got sucked in by the smoothness. Would like something heavier though, like just slightly lighter than MX Tactile Grays. How's the weight on these?
it's good. i like it. i think i'd like to try an even heavier switch for my next build. one thing i didn't realize when i got them is that they are plate mount only which was a bit tricky on this plate as far as getting the modifiers super straight
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 23 August 2017, 13:30:28
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Thanks for the info! Here's a pic of my current build:-) Really happy with it. It's gonna be my travel board for teaching so i went for a super light plastic case. Built with box dark yellows which are amazing. never was into linears before but these are super smooth.
(Attachment Link)
Awesome board, I love the pastel color theme and enjoypbt is one of the best typing experiences.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 23 August 2017, 13:31:44
(https://i.redditmedia.com/NnRtprVk3HYP6OF2jQRxC-yMElUeSo-tSLPGlmdqNQE.jpg?w=1024&s=040722a2e59fab966e360f1af56d963f)
Post by: sithlord on Wed, 23 August 2017, 22:39:07
Posted it on reddit forgot to post it here, I went to Oregon this monday to witness the total eclipse. Snagged a photo with a freshly built BananaSplit.Show Image(https://i.redditmedia.com/NnRtprVk3HYP6OF2jQRxC-yMElUeSo-tSLPGlmdqNQE.jpg?w=1024&s=040722a2e59fab966e360f1af56d963f)
It's too dark to see anything. How can we be sure it actually is a banana split?
Post by: sithlord on Wed, 23 August 2017, 22:40:51
Any info on what's up next for The Van Keyboards? maybe another round of minivans:-)
I just got some MiniVans in yesterday, should have them on the site this week
oh no! i can't buy anything for a couple weeks! prolly gonna miss this round. hopefully some will come around again in Sept/Oct?
Just built my banana split. will try to post some pictures tomorrow. It's taking a bit getting used to the split. never realized that I use both my thumbs for the space bar till now.
Couple questions- do i need to "reset" the pcb everytime i flash a new hex? and is there a way via the configurator to make a key that would be CTRL and SHIFT together?
Yes you need to reset the keyboard before you can flash it. There is no way currently to do a key that is CTRL and SHIFT. I think that could be added on though. I'm working on configurator v2 which should be easier for me to maintain and add features to
Can we get macro support? :p
Post by: Nuum on Thu, 24 August 2017, 06:54:57
My parcel seems to be stuck in German customs since the 8th of August, which is unusually long. Normally they deliver it to you right away and ask for the fee at your door or they send you a letter asking you to pick up your parcel. I don't mean to offend you, but did you declare customs properly for international parcels?
Nevermind, it arrived today and I'm already assembling it! Thanks for organizing this GB!
God knows what took the customs office so long to process it. I had to pay the customs fee at the door, BTW.
Post by: Pie on Thu, 24 August 2017, 09:33:32
(http://i.imgur.com/NmIxqyP.jpg)
Post by: dr-slump on Thu, 24 August 2017, 09:57:54
My parcel seems to be stuck in German customs since the 8th of August, which is unusually long. Normally they deliver it to you right away and ask for the fee at your door or they send you a letter asking you to pick up your parcel. I don't mean to offend you, but did you declare customs properly for international parcels?
Nevermind, it arrived today and I'm already assembling it! Thanks for organizing this GB!
God knows what took the customs office so long to process it. I had to pay the customs fee at the door, BTW.
Same here, although mine arrived very quickly. I don't know what the Deutsche Post is thinking when they're trying to collect the customs fee at 10 am on a weekday (thanks grandpa ;D )
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 24 August 2017, 10:59:20
Mine arrived today, I'm very happy with it! :DVery clean, xda is very awesome with their included split space keys.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/NmIxqyP.jpg)
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: Nuum on Thu, 24 August 2017, 11:28:29
[attach=1]
Post by: beeull on Fri, 25 August 2017, 09:58:58
The board works great so far after repairing the damage I caused, thanks again to Arhipio and Evan! I just need to get enough switches/stems/springs to set it up how I really want :)
Does anybody else have a problem with the bottom row stabilizers being very finicky on keycap removal and doing their best to come loose from the board or disassemble themselves (wire pulling out of the inserts)? Everything seems to stay together fine between (during typing), but I've had a lot of headache on key removal so far. :(
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 25 August 2017, 11:30:14
Here's a potato pic of what I did with my kit. The keycaps are very old Triumph Adler doubleshots mixed with some G20 profile keycaps. I don't really like the white together with the dark brown, it's too cold, but I don't have anything else at hand right now. Maybe I'll switch the white keycaps to yellow ones someday. SP's G20 profile is the best matching profile for those flat sphericals I have found so far, though.
(Attachment Link)
I knew someone would use that layout, looks like we accidentally have the pinout for a 2.25/1.75/2.25 split space configuration. I'll later add it to the supported layouts. Very nice build :D
Post by: 8megabit on Fri, 25 August 2017, 11:30:56
Is there some command line tool that can take the layout in text format from evans configurator (like
Code: [Select]
{"keyboard":"bananasplit","activeLayout":42,"keymap":[[[... ) and create the hex file?What is the configurator using on the backend?
Thanks! :)
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 25 August 2017, 11:31:34
Some so-so pics of the finished Split at http://imgur.com/a/Fly1k
The board works great so far after repairing the damage I caused, thanks again to Arhipio and Evan! I just need to get enough switches/stems/springs to set it up how I really want :)
Does anybody else have a problem with the bottom row stabilizers being very finicky on keycap removal and doing their best to come loose from the board or disassemble themselves (wire pulling out of the inserts)? Everything seems to stay together fine between (during typing), but I've had a lot of headache on key removal so far. :(
I think that has to do with the grab bag SA shift keys, I also have a build that used grab bag SA caps and a lot of the stems aren't properly aligned causing stab issues. SA is just a really finicky profile in the first place.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 25 August 2017, 12:09:53
How can I generate the hexfile myself instead of using http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com ?
Is there some command line tool that can take the layout in text format from evans configurator (likeCode: [Select]{"keyboard":"bananasplit","activeLayout":42,"keymap":[[[...) and create the hex file?
What is the configurator using on the backend?
Thanks! :)
why would you want to generate the hex file using the output of the configurator but not have the configurator generate the hex? if you want to build the firmware locally you can checkout the tmk repo on my github (evangs). There is also a QMK port of the firmware as well.
Post by: wakko on Fri, 25 August 2017, 12:15:35
Some so-so pics of the finished Split at http://imgur.com/a/Fly1k
The board works great so far after repairing the damage I caused, thanks again to Arhipio and Evan! I just need to get enough switches/stems/springs to set it up how I really want :)
Does anybody else have a problem with the bottom row stabilizers being very finicky on keycap removal and doing their best to come loose from the board or disassemble themselves (wire pulling out of the inserts)? Everything seems to stay together fine between (during typing), but I've had a lot of headache on key removal so far. :(
I think that has to do with the grab bag SA shift keys, I also have a build that used grab bag SA caps and a lot of the stems aren't properly aligned causing stab issues. SA is just a really finicky profile in the first place.
I have had that happen with GMK caps. It's happened twice when I removed the keycaps. My guess is they pull on the inserts enough that it cases the wire to pop out.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: ChitownM2 on Fri, 25 August 2017, 21:13:39
Any ideas what is going on?
Edit: Also, if I unplug it while it is working and then plug it back in I have the same problem where none of the keyboards work.
Edit2: So I've determined that when I plug the keyboard into a computer that is already running it does work, but it makes the computer act as if the "ctrl" key is permanently and constantly depressed. So I can copy by just pressing "c" or paste by pressing "v", etc. Mouse works fine, but I can't type worth a darn because pressing ctrl while typing does all kinds of goofy stuff....
Post by: evangs on Sat, 26 August 2017, 02:35:57
So I built my board yesterday and got it flashed with the firmware using the tools/instructions on evang's site. Everything seems to work correctly except that the board only works properly when it is plugged into the computer during boot. If I boot the computer then plug in the board it doesn't work and it also messes up any other keyboard that I have plugged in so that it doesn't work either until I reboot the PC.
Any ideas what is going on?
Edit: Also, if I unplug it while it is working and then plug it back in I have the same problem where none of the keyboards work.
Edit2: So I've determined that when I plug the keyboard into a computer that is already running it does work, but it makes the computer act as if the "ctrl" key is permanently and constantly depressed. So I can copy by just pressing "c" or paste by pressing "v", etc. Mouse works fine, but I can't type worth a darn because pressing ctrl while typing does all kinds of goofy stuff....
Check your soldering
Post by: ChitownM2 on Sat, 26 August 2017, 14:38:51
Check your soldering
That was it. sloppy R ctrl joint bridged pads since they were so close due to the multiple layout options in that corner.
Post by: evangs on Sat, 26 August 2017, 14:58:39
Check your soldering
That was it. sloppy R ctrl joint bridged pads since they were so close due to the multiple layout options in that corner.
Yeah some of those spots can be a little tricky.
Post by: 8megabit on Mon, 28 August 2017, 09:27:49
why would you want to generate the hex file using the output of the configurator but not have the configurator generate the hex? if you want to build the firmware locally you can checkout the tmk repo on my github (evangs). There is also a QMK port of the firmware as well.
Haha, yeah I can see why it seems a bit weird but this is the process leading up to the question:
1. Finish the board, make some quick layout in the online configurator and flash it just to try it out.
2. Want to make some changes to the layout, realize I have to input everything again from scratch since I cannot load the current config from the hexfile I already have.
3. Realize I can actually load the config from the text format.
4. Save the text format locally so I don't have to start from scratch when making changes.
5. Realize it would be sweet to not take the detour to online configurator to create the hexfile.
So would the easiest way then be to use the tmk repo? Is that what the online conf is using on the backend?
Thanks!
Post by: evangs on Mon, 28 August 2017, 13:10:16
why would you want to generate the hex file using the output of the configurator but not have the configurator generate the hex? if you want to build the firmware locally you can checkout the tmk repo on my github (evangs). There is also a QMK port of the firmware as well.
Haha, yeah I can see why it seems a bit weird but this is the process leading up to the question:
1. Finish the board, make some quick layout in the online configurator and flash it just to try it out.
2. Want to make some changes to the layout, realize I have to input everything again from scratch since I cannot load the current config from the hexfile I already have.
3. Realize I can actually load the config from the text format.
4. Save the text format locally so I don't have to start from scratch when making changes.
5. Realize it would be sweet to not take the detour to online configurator to create the hexfile.
So would the easiest way then be to use the tmk repo? Is that what the online conf is using on the backend?
Thanks!
yes, it's using my TMK fork on the backend which also contains configurations for all of my keyboards including banana split. you could download it and then setup your layout there and then tweak and rebuild as you need.
Post by: ojrask on Mon, 28 August 2017, 14:49:42
(https://instagram.fqlf1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/t51.2885-15/e35/21107426_1953534194889868_313298231947689984_n.jpg)
Gateron Greens, with a twist of two lock switches! Will be putting new caps on once I get them this fall.
Thanks evangs and Arhipio!
Post by: lac29 on Tue, 29 August 2017, 09:19:35
Post by: evangs on Tue, 29 August 2017, 10:06:07
Any idea when v2 will come out?
launching in October
Post by: lac29 on Tue, 29 August 2017, 10:07:26
Any idea when v2 will come out?
launching in October
Damn, that's exciting. You're so on top of things.
Post by: 8megabit on Tue, 29 August 2017, 11:08:56
Ok, great! I will look into that then. :)why would you want to generate the hex file using the output of the configurator but not have the configurator generate the hex? if you want to build the firmware locally you can checkout the tmk repo on my github (evangs). There is also a QMK port of the firmware as well.
Haha, yeah I can see why it seems a bit weird but this is the process leading up to the question:
1. Finish the board, make some quick layout in the online configurator and flash it just to try it out.
2. Want to make some changes to the layout, realize I have to input everything again from scratch since I cannot load the current config from the hexfile I already have.
3. Realize I can actually load the config from the text format.
4. Save the text format locally so I don't have to start from scratch when making changes.
5. Realize it would be sweet to not take the detour to online configurator to create the hexfile.
So would the easiest way then be to use the tmk repo? Is that what the online conf is using on the backend?
Thanks!
yes, it's using my TMK fork on the backend which also contains configurations for all of my keyboards including banana split. you could download it and then setup your layout there and then tweak and rebuild as you need.
Post by: Dan_Boulet on Wed, 30 August 2017, 00:55:23
Post by: Cotay on Wed, 30 August 2017, 01:38:50
Hope someone can help answer a noob question: I’m thinking of putting Kailh BOX switches in my Banana Split, but the switches are only compatible with SMD LEDs. Could I install small through-hole LEDs right up against the PCB, so that they fit underneath the switch? Any reason that it would be a bad idea on this board?
The Box switches are not "only" compatible with SMD leds. It is true that there is no way to insert an LED through the switch, but you can solder a 1.8mm or 2x3x4mm, LEDs directly to the PCB and install the Box switch over it. Personally I've used 2x3x4 LEDs in this manner with Gateron SMD switches and Invyr Pandas. I'll be doing the same thing with Box switches on a Red Scarf III that I have never completed.
Post by: ctrl on Wed, 30 August 2017, 03:01:46
Hope someone can help answer a noob question: I’m thinking of putting Kailh BOX switches in my Banana Split, but the switches are only compatible with SMD LEDs. Could I install small through-hole LEDs right up against the PCB, so that they fit underneath the switch? Any reason that it would be a bad idea on this board?
The Box switches are not "only" compatible with SMD leds. It is true that there is no way to insert an LED through the switch, but you can solder a 1.8mm or 2x3x4mm, LEDs directly to the PCB and install the Box switch over it. Personally I've used 2x3x4 LEDs in this manner with Gateron SMD switches and Invyr Pandas. I'll be doing the same thing with Box switches on a Red Scarf III that I have never completed.
I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60. :)
Post by: kmba on Wed, 30 August 2017, 09:29:14
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 30 August 2017, 12:07:57
What changes are in store for v2? Maybe I missed itWe haven't announced anything concrete yet. Stay tuned we'll make a large announcement when we're ready.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: Cotay on Wed, 30 August 2017, 14:48:20
I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60. :)
I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.
Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:
[attach=1]
Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:
[attach=2]
Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.
[attach=3]
[attach=4]
Post by: ctrl on Thu, 31 August 2017, 00:49:51
I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60. :)
I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.
Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:
(Attachment Link)
Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself. :thumb:
So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).
Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.
Post by: Cotay on Thu, 31 August 2017, 01:13:49
I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60. :)
I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.
Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:
(Attachment Link)
Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself. :thumb:
So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).
Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.
There is no issue with alignment. In fact, the Box switch makes this a bit easier since it appears the cavity was designed specifically to do this with 2x3x4 LEDs. It's is actually centered on the switch much better than other SMD switches. I've mocked it up for you in the picture below. When doing this, install all LEDs and switches to your Plate and PCB. When you turn the board upside down to solder, your LEDs will fall a bit further into the switch housing and allow them to diffuse light even better. Some people suggest bending the LED legs and I do that when installing them from the standard exterior top position. However, when installing them under SMD switch like this, I don't bend the legs and make sure I wiggle them as far as they will go into the switch. Straight legs also let you know you've got the LED vertical in the switch. The Box switch's cavity actually cradles the 2x3x4 LED much better than a Gateron SMD or standard Kailh or Outemu SMD switch. If you are looking for LEDs, I'd recommend Mehkee since he is active here and just ran a GB for them, but he has them available in a wide selection of colors: https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/leds-2x3x4mm-and-1-8mm-1?variant=45263792655
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 31 August 2017, 13:28:46
If a replacement is needed please contact evan at the thevankeyboards@gmail.com we will be more than happy to accommodate you, we want everyone to have a positive experience with this group buy :D
This leads me to the general fixes we will be doing with round 2, we still have yet to announce features. Stayed tuned for those ;)
PCB:
-Fix smd issue near mounting points.
-Shorten side lengths for looser case tolerances.
Plate:
-Fix warping issues by removing the side gaps on the side screw holes.
-Potentially add stabilizing bars on the bottom right switch row hole.
We have so much planned for round 2 and we are planning to announce it as one big update. Round 2 will be released at the end of October.
Post by: ctrl on Fri, 01 September 2017, 01:11:24
I'm also considering Kailh BOX switches, but am not only a beginner to soldering, but completely new to soldering SMDs. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installation process/the finished LEDs to give an idea of what it looks like? I find that while there's a lot of info on soldering THT components, info on how to install SMD LEDs in particular isn't that common. Considering the rising popularity of Kailh BOX switches, it'd be nice to see what it should actually look like. Even better when it's on a BananaSplit60. :)
I'll share what I did with Invyr Panda switches on a Gons Nerd 60 PCB. Since the Invyr Pandas come with hot swap sockets and I wanted to be able to remove them, I soldered the LEDs to the board under the switch. I could have used SIP sockets for the LEDs instead, but this method worked out well and the light really does shine bright. It would be even brighter with the clear top housing of the Box switches.
Here is what the 2x3x4 LED looks like soldered directly to the PCB:
(Attachment Link)
Here is what it looks like with the switch attached:
(Attachment Link)
Here are some pictures of a Box Black switch next to an Invyr Panda. Note that the top of the Box switch is solid, thus not allowing the legs of an LED to pass through the switch. However, the bottom of the switch is open in order to accommodate SMD LEDS, but it also allows you to insert a 2x3x4 LED like I've done. If you don't plan on using hot swap sockets for your switches, you would put the LED on the PCB and then place the switch over the LED before soldering both.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for the detailed info! This is great for beginners like myself. :thumb:
So would 2x3x4 LEDs both fit under the Kailh BOX switches and align with the LED holes in the PCB? It's a little hard to tell from the image, but it looks like the cavity under the BOX switch is slightly shifted to the right by a mm or so (or is it just the camera angle?).
Would be much easier to solder the 2x3x4 LEDs than SMDs, but I don't know how available they are or what colors are available.
There is no issue with alignment. In fact, the Box switch makes this a bit easier since it appears the cavity was designed specifically to do this with 2x3x4 LEDs. It's is actually centered on the switch much better than other SMD switches. I've mocked it up for you in the picture below. When doing this, install all LEDs and switches to your Plate and PCB. When you turn the board upside down to solder, your LEDs will fall a bit further into the switch housing and allow them to diffuse light even better. Some people suggest bending the LED legs and I do that when installing them from the standard exterior top position. However, when installing them under SMD switch like this, I don't bend the legs and make sure I wiggle them as far as they will go into the switch. Straight legs also let you know you've got the LED vertical in the switch. The Box switch's cavity actually cradles the 2x3x4 LED much better than a Gateron SMD or standard Kailh or Outemu SMD switch. If you are looking for LEDs, I'd recommend Mehkee since he is active here and just ran a GB for them, but he has them available in a wide selection of colors: https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/leds-2x3x4mm-and-1-8mm-1?variant=45263792655
(Attachment Link)
Thank you! This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to find! I think I'll attempt to do just what you described with my first build. Especially appreciate details like how to let the 2x3x4 LEDs "fall" into the switch to lodge them in better place before soldering. Very helpful! :)
I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.
Post by: ctrl on Fri, 01 September 2017, 01:13:08
I wanted to address a couple things regarding this round. Firstly I can't say this enough but thank you all for your amazing support. Not only have you made this round extremely successful but you guys have been providing us with critical information that we will use to make round 2 even better. Secondly there has been a small issue with the C3 capacitor interfering with case placement, I personally have not encountered this issue, but I would still like to address it. Please carefully place your pcb into the case if you feel like it's not properly aligning carefully move it around until it slots in.Thirdly we have been getting sent pictures of plates that seem to be warped, I think the root of the problem lies with how I designed the bottom right row hole and the two side screw holes. Although the plates are rigid these holes can caused warping issues during the finishing process.
If a replacement is needed please contact evan at the thevankeyboards@gmail.com we will be more than happy to accommodate you, we want everyone to have a positive experience with this group buy :D
This leads me to the general fixes we will be doing with round 2, we still have yet to announce features. Stayed tuned for those ;)
PCB:
-Fix smd issue near mounting points.
-Shorten side lengths for looser case tolerances.
Plate:
-Fix warping issues by removing the side gaps on the side screw holes.
-Potentially add stabilizing bars on the bottom right switch row hole.
We have so much planned for round 2 and we are planning to announce it as one big update. Round 2 will be released at the end of October.
Stoked! :thumb:
Post by: Cotay on Fri, 01 September 2017, 01:26:59
I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.
Well I guess we are technically mounting the 2x3x4 LEDs as a form of SMD that isn't really going "through" the switch. :)
Post by: ctrl on Fri, 01 September 2017, 04:36:30
I wonder though why they keep marketing those Kailh switches as "SMD switches" when clearly 2x3x4 THT LEDs would do just as fine.
Well I guess we are technically mounting the 2x3x4 LEDs as a form of SMD that isn't really going "through" the switch. :)
Touché. ;D
Post by: ojrask on Fri, 01 September 2017, 10:51:12
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 01 September 2017, 10:59:12
Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work. :)
Some of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 01 September 2017, 11:03:49
Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work. :)
A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.
there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up
Post by: ojrask on Fri, 01 September 2017, 11:52:53
Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work. :)
A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.
there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up
I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries. :)
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 01 September 2017, 12:21:46
Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work. :)
A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.
there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up
I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries. :)
The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.
Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you :)
Post by: evangs on Fri, 01 September 2017, 15:48:57
Yeah, the bottom right switch hole was quite bent inwards. I fixed it by just stuffing switches there and sliding them up and down until the bend was corrected. Nothing bad but was a bit worried it would not work. :)
A lot of them looked bad, but still functioned properly. We've had some severe cases, hoping to fix it for round 2. With this long weekend I'll see if I get some time to work on it.
there seemed to be a couple bundles that were bent, but I think most of the plates were perfect, so I'm not entirely sure why those few got messed up
I had to force the switches in on my plate. The bend was clearly visible and the gap for the switches was around 1-2mm too narrow for the switches. The packaging was OK so I guess just a minor oversight when packing them. Works fine now though so now worries. :)
The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.
Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you :)
correct, I think they were damaged before they even made it to me. I do not believe any plates were damaged during transit from me to everyone who ordered.
Post by: tom_0334 on Sat, 02 September 2017, 09:35:54
I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed." I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.
I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.
Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.
Post by: evangs on Sat, 02 September 2017, 09:51:46
Hi,
I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed." I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.
I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.
Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.
It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603
Post by: tom_0334 on Sat, 02 September 2017, 11:05:47
https://www.condensators.nl/p/elektrolytische-condensator-100-v-1-f?pid=3901701
?
It seems easier to solder on because of the pins, and it would arrive tomorrow. I'm thinking i could solder it on without desoldering the entire thing.
Post by: menuhin on Sat, 02 September 2017, 13:38:58
Hi,
I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed." I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.
I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.
Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.
It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603
It seems like it can be a good idea to put the related info in the Top post's FAQ section or troubleshooting section.
I've not received my PCB yet, but am already a bit worried about how I should handle mine probably so that similar errors won't happen to me.
Post by: Eturior on Sat, 02 September 2017, 14:04:59
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 02 September 2017, 22:59:11
Hi,
I just finished soldering my banana split, but after putting it in my case windows says it detected an unrecognized usb device. Atmel flip also cant open it, and in device manager it says "A request for the USB device descriptor failed." I tested it before i put it inside the case and it was working perfectly, all keys were soldered correctly and all keys worked as expected.
I think i have the same problem as e996. After i took it out of the case again and looking at that component, it seems i broke it when i installed it into my case since its really close to the screw hole. I attached picture of that part of the pcb.
Is there anything i can do to fix it? I dont have capacitors just laying around, but if you think its fixable i could buy some of course.
It just needs a capacitor soldered back on 1uf 0603
It seems like it can be a good idea to put the related info in the Top post's FAQ section or troubleshooting section.
I've not received my PCB yet, but am already a bit worried about how I should handle mine probably so that similar errors won't happen to me.
Just updated it :)
Post by: vim_commando on Mon, 04 September 2017, 23:14:51
Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.
[attach=1]
So far I'm really digging the split space design. :thumb:
Post by: evangs on Tue, 05 September 2017, 09:57:33
I finally snuck some time in to get my build going :D
Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.
(Attachment Link)
So far I'm really digging the split space design. :thumb:
That looks insane, I love it!
this is my BananaSplit
(https://i.imgur.com/OC7M22W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/09zuvi6.jpg)
Post by: tom_0334 on Tue, 05 September 2017, 10:41:43
I have been trying to get it to work for quite a while now. I managed to solder the capacitor on, but it still didn't work. I tried removing some solder as there was a bit much but then the cap fell of and i havent gotten it on correctly since. There's just a little dot of metal left to solder onto and its quite tiny so it pretty hard to do.
I will try again tonight. If anyone has suggestions i'm all ears!
Post by: evangs on Tue, 05 September 2017, 10:46:29
So, a little update on my troubles....
I have been trying to get it to work for quite a while now. I managed to solder the capacitor on, but it still didn't work. I tried removing some solder as there was a bit much but then the cap fell of and i havent gotten it on correctly since. There's just a little dot of metal left to solder onto and its quite tiny so it pretty hard to do.
I will try again tonight. If anyone has suggestions i'm all ears!
email me and I'll get a new pcb sent out. thevankeyboards@gmail.com
Post by: tom_0334 on Tue, 05 September 2017, 11:15:40
Post by: evangs on Tue, 05 September 2017, 11:22:51
Thanks man. You're the best. I will try again one more time and if i fail i will send you an email tonight.
sounds great
Post by: kitchenace13 on Tue, 05 September 2017, 13:08:32
(https://i.imgur.com/s36DXHe.jpg)
A few remarks:
- Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace. I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
maybe PgUp/PgDn - Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in. Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in. Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on? Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
- I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side. No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.
Post by: evangs on Tue, 05 September 2017, 13:20:15
Here is my setup (65g zealios, zealencios, GMK Hydro, 60% wooden case). Still very much getting used to it and playing with the programming:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/s36DXHe.jpg)
A few remarks:
- Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace. I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
maybe PgUp/PgDn- Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in. Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in. Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on? Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
- I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side. No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.
for the control key issue, double check the soldering for that key and then also reset the eeprom by holding backspace and space while plugging in the keyboard. I'd probably do the eeprom clear first since that is easier to do and if it resolves the issue then you're good to go.
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 05 September 2017, 13:22:07
I finally snuck some time in to get my build going :D
Here is a sneak-peak with a full build log of my BananaChip60 to follow sometime soon.
(Attachment Link)
So far I'm really digging the split space design. :thumb:
That looks awesome, brings me so much joy seeing everyone's unique builds :D
Post by: tom_0334 on Tue, 05 September 2017, 15:02:21
Thanks man. You're the best. I will try again one more time and if i fail i will send you an email tonight.
sounds great
Just tried again, got it on okayish i think. Didn't work unfortunately. I sent you an email for a new PCB hopefully. Thanks Evangs
Let this be a lesson for the other guys: be extra careful when positioning your pcb in the case. Enjoy your boards!
Post by: flintlock on Wed, 06 September 2017, 01:18:40
And how much is the shipping to CA?
Post by: kmba on Wed, 06 September 2017, 06:58:34
Here is my setup (65g zealios, zealencios, GMK Hydro, 60% wooden case). Still very much getting used to it and playing with the programming:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/s36DXHe.jpg)
A few remarks:
- Right now I have the split spacebar set to - Space, Del, Backspace. I think this means that I should have split the normal backspace so that I could have used those keys in R1 for something else,
maybe PgUp/PgDn- Running into a bit of an issue when I first plug the keyboard in. Right now the system acts like the "CNTL" key is depressed until I log off and log back in. Not sure if anyone else has seen this issue and/or knows whats going on? Its not a huge issue but kind of odd
- I broke my plate, one of the thin areas snapped on the right side. No big deal I think in terms of functionality because its plenty stiff but just kinda sad.
split left shift is a great idea to free up caps for the split space :thumb:
Post by: evangs on Wed, 06 September 2017, 11:18:24
How much would it be if I only order the plate?
And how much is the shipping to CA?
$24 + $4 for shipping = $28 send me an email. thevankeyboards@gmail.com
Post by: vim_commando on Wed, 06 September 2017, 11:52:56
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
[attach=3]
[attach=4]
I'm still struggling to get a good overview shot.
I don't say "complete" because now I've got some mods in mind.
Anyone have recommendations for LED suppliers? I never planned on lighting this board past maybe an underglow, but now it just seems like its a necessity to complete the look.
Post by: evangs on Wed, 06 September 2017, 12:21:21
Ok, here we go, I finally got some good pictures of the... functional board.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I'm still struggling to get a good overview shot.
I don't say "complete" because now I've got some mods in mind.
Anyone have recommendations for LED suppliers? I never planned on lighting this board past maybe an underglow, but now it just seems like its a necessity to complete the look.
oh my, that is quite an incredible build. I really like what you've done here
Post by: ojrask on Wed, 06 September 2017, 13:23:53
The tolerance should be perfect for the switches and that shouldn't changed based off the bend. The issue isn't with packaging but how the plates were finished I believe.
Mind taking some pictures? Trying to collect some so I can better understand how to fix the problem. Thank you :)
Sorry, the board is all assembled now and I did not take any pictures in the heat of assembling. :(
I drew a _very_ exaggerated sketch of how the bend was in my plate:
[attach=1]
The middle was too narrow (1-2mm) to fit a switch straight in. To correct that I inserted a switch to the unbent left edge and slided it around in the plate hole until the bend was gone.
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 06 September 2017, 14:19:47
The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.
The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.
A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.
Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.
Post by: evangs on Wed, 06 September 2017, 14:41:15
Questions:
The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.
The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.
A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.
Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.
the PCBs aren't defective, they come blank so you will need to program it first if you want to test the inputs. you can use QMK right away no need to do TMK. be careful putting the pcb into the case. there is a capacitor close to one of the mounts and if you slide it around you can knock it off, this is the issue people have had. on a side note some things aren't simple to do in regards to shipping. exceptions take a lot of time and doing said exceptions for every international order would add an incredible amount of time to shipping as well as breaking the law. It is not my fault that your country charges high import taxes.
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 06 September 2017, 16:03:30
Questions:
The PCB is not usable out of the box? i.e. not flashed with any default keyboard layout yet?
So I have to flash it with my designed layout using TMK first?
Or can I already use QMK?
Most importantly - how can I tell if my PCB is not defective? I connected it to my mini-USB and try connecting the pin-holes of some switches like what I did to my other keyboard PCBs but nothing registered.
The plate does look a bit rounded, I won't say bent, but almost. The cut just doesn't look neat to the eyes at the bottom right area for the plate.
A side note, Evan forgot my shipping instructions that I sent him multiple times in early weeks and during the shipping week, but other than that the packaging was secure. I would suggest using a small box next time that really fit so the content won't bounce around.
Okay, now I have to figure out my PCB is not defective like some others above and that my plate is not too out of shape to achieve my build.
the PCBs aren't defective, they come blank so you will need to program it first if you want to test the inputs. you can use QMK right away no need to do TMK. be careful putting the pcb into the case. there is a capacitor close to one of the mounts and if you slide it around you can knock it off, this is the issue people have had. on a side note some things aren't simple to do in regards to shipping. exceptions take a lot of time and doing said exceptions for every international order would add an incredible amount of time to shipping as well as breaking the law. It is not my fault that your country charges high import taxes.
Thanks for the reply and understood.
Next time when the sale is of high volume, would be nicer if you remind us that you may not be able to follow through for individual shipping instructions. For me it's not only saving a bit of money - I lost packages due to mistakes made by the custom, and the most painful is, those were lost during its return shipment due to their man-made errors and you finally knew the package was gone only after 2+ months of following it.
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 06 September 2017, 17:01:54
The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.
(http://i.imgur.com/GGWCk9P.jpg)
Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 06 September 2017, 17:07:04
There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.
The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GGWCk9P.jpg)
Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.
Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.
I can take a look and double check once I get home.
Post by: menuhin on Wed, 06 September 2017, 17:20:38
There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.
The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GGWCk9P.jpg)
Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.
Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.
I can take a look and double check once I get home.
Of course I tried physically trying to put the screws in, and I was not fantasizing both screws on both sides will fit, I was just trying one side, and I could not even put in the tip of the screw. The procedure I am using was that I put in the center screw first and then the top left.
These Poker cases are everywhere and I believe they somewhat set the standard for 60%.
At this point I am ready to drill the PCB to open it up a little to fit - but such a beautifully decorated PCB... I really wish the process be a little smoother.
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 06 September 2017, 17:32:13
Can you attempt at screwing in the side screws before screwing in the center one. That's usually the best procedure.There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.
The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GGWCk9P.jpg)
Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.
Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.
I can take a look and double check once I get home.
Of course I tried physically trying to put the screws in, and I was not fantasizing both screws on both sides will fit, I was just trying one side, and I could not even put in the tip of the screw. The procedure I am using was that I put in the center screw first and then the top left.
These Poker cases are everywhere and I believe they somewhat set the standard for 60%.
At this point I am ready to drill the PCB to open it up a little to fit - but such a beautifully decorated PCB... I really wish the process be a little smoother.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: evangs on Wed, 06 September 2017, 18:16:33
There is some misalignment issues of the screw holes of the BananaSplit60 PCB on a standard Pok3r / Poker style case - at least for my BananaSplit60 PCB with the Poker case that came with my Infinity60 purchase. I believe Poker case should have the standard measurements of 60% PCB and keyboards out there.
The PCB fits snug and nice the Poker 3 case in terms of its dimension. The green circles highlighted the screw holes with nice fit, the two red circles on the edge of both sides exposed not large enough of the space to put in even the tip of the screw. Please zoom in to take a look. Do we have to leave out these two screws in our builds? Any suggestion will be welcomed.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GGWCk9P.jpg)
Seeing from the product history of the MiniVan, the BananaSplit60 is their first 60% keyboard kit, switching from the 40% keyboard market. It is not impossible that they are still getting use to the correct measurements of the 60% keyboard products, especially during their first run.
Have you physically tried screwing them in, loosely screw all of them in and then tighten them all once everything is aligned. I had 0 issues with case compatibility. I'm assuming the infinity board came with those plastic 60 cases? I had no issues with those.
I can take a look and double check once I get home.
Of course I tried physically trying to put the screws in, and I was not fantasizing both screws on both sides will fit, I was just trying one side, and I could not even put in the tip of the screw. The procedure I am using was that I put in the center screw first and then the top left.
These Poker cases are everywhere and I believe they somewhat set the standard for 60%.
At this point I am ready to drill the PCB to open it up a little to fit - but such a beautifully decorated PCB... I really wish the process be a little smoother.
I don't know that I would use the poker 3 case. I've heard reports of some other issues with that case. Someone fried two PCBs in the poker 3 case. Not sure what's different with that case as I don't have one. I've used the kbdfans aluminum case, Tex low profile case and the cheap acrylic case from MD all without issue.
Post by: menuhin on Thu, 07 September 2017, 03:46:07
Thanks Arhipio, I am able to put in one more screw though the USB port is pushed a bit further to the side....Can you attempt at screwing in the side screws before screwing in the center one. That's usually the best procedure.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Evan, thanks for the build reports. It might be that some of these ubiquitous Poker 3 cases are not so perfect, but please don't totally ignore them as they are the most used cases in the customized mechanical world, please at least take a look at it and see if version 2 can fit them better....I don't know that I would use the poker 3 case. I've heard reports of some other issues with that case. Someone fried two PCBs in the poker 3 case. Not sure what's different with that case as I don't have one. I've used the kbdfans aluminum case, Tex low profile case and the cheap acrylic case from MD all without issue.
Now building it, although not perfect but it looks good to me:
(http://i.imgur.com/IVl7lUm.jpg)
Thanks Arhipio, thanks Evan for creating this kit.
Hope the 2nd run will be even better!
Post by: evangs on Thu, 07 September 2017, 11:58:47
Thanks Arhipio, I am able to put in one more screw though the USB port is pushed a bit further to the side....Can you attempt at screwing in the side screws before screwing in the center one. That's usually the best procedure.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using TapatalkEvan, thanks for the build reports. It might be that some of these ubiquitous Poker 3 cases are not so perfect, but please don't totally ignore them as they are the most used cases in the customized mechanical world, please at least take a look at it and see if version 2 can fit them better....I don't know that I would use the poker 3 case. I've heard reports of some other issues with that case. Someone fried two PCBs in the poker 3 case. Not sure what's different with that case as I don't have one. I've used the kbdfans aluminum case, Tex low profile case and the cheap acrylic case from MD all without issue.
Now building it, although not perfect but it looks good to me:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IVl7lUm.jpg)
Thanks Arhipio, thanks Evan for creating this kit.
Hope the 2nd run will be even better!
you're welcome and sorry for the miscommunications. we have expanded the side mounts to accommodate better. we have also made some other changes and improvements. we will be detailing them soon.
thanks for your support.
Post by: iFreilicht on Mon, 11 September 2017, 10:46:53
Post by: kawasaki161 on Mon, 11 September 2017, 13:02:09
Goddamnit, my PCB was held at customs and apparently sent back while I was on holidays. :( Expect a returned package, Evan. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'll pay shipping a second time once it arrives at your place.If evan doesn't mind taking it back into his leftover stock and refunding you I can sell you mine for a good price (if you only bought the PCB without a plate or stabs) that way you wouldn't have to pay shipping twice.
I wanted to get a plate made for it to use it in a top mount case but something came up and I have to get rid of a few things now.
Post by: iFreilicht on Tue, 12 September 2017, 04:39:05
Goddamnit, my PCB was held at customs and apparently sent back while I was on holidays. :( Expect a returned package, Evan. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'll pay shipping a second time once it arrives at your place.If evan doesn't mind taking it back into his leftover stock and refunding you I can sell you mine for a good price (if you only bought the PCB without a plate or stabs) that way you wouldn't have to pay shipping twice.
I wanted to get a plate made for it to use it in a top mount case but something came up and I have to get rid of a few things now.
That would be super cool! I'll PM you in a bit.
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Thu, 21 September 2017, 11:53:01
I'm already thinking about my layout and key assignments, and I was poking around at the TMK Configurator... I think I understand how it works, but I couldn't find any codes listed for the EJECT key or the all-important MUTE
Post by: vim_commando on Fri, 22 September 2017, 11:52:58
I'm definitely planning to be in for round two of this.
I'm already thinking about my layout and key assignments, and I was poking around at the TMK Configurator... I think I understand how it works, but I couldn't find any codes listed for the EJECT key or the all-important MUTE
MUTE is definitely there, I have it programmed on my board. It should be near the bottom of the character menu near VOLU (volume up) and VOLD (volume down).
Eject on the other hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Fri, 22 September 2017, 14:20:56
MUTE is definitely there, I have it programmed on my board. It should be near the bottom of the character menu near VOLU (volume up) and VOLD (volume down).
Eject on the other hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I saw that MUTE was mentioned in the release notes about the time I decided not to post that previous message here, which somehow got posted anyhow. (This forum is still tripping me up with its quirks.) So, EJECT. . . I couldn't find it when I was programming my Carpe JD45 either. Is this a widespread blind spot among programmable keyboards? I don't think the key code for EJECT is any kind of trade secret.
Here's what "xev" spits out when I hit it. . .
Code: [Select]
keycode 169 (keysym 0x1008ff2c, XF86Eject)
Post by: vim_commando on Fri, 22 September 2017, 14:24:25
MUTE is definitely there, I have it programmed on my board. It should be near the bottom of the character menu near VOLU (volume up) and VOLD (volume down).
Eject on the other hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I saw that MUTE was mentioned in the release notes about the time I decided not to post that previous message here, which somehow got posted anyhow. (This forum is still tripping me up with its quirks.) So, EJECT. . . I couldn't find it when I was programming my Carpe JD45 either. Is this a widespread blind spot among programmable keyboards? I don't think the key code for EJECT is any kind of trade secret.
Here's what "xev" spits out when I hit it. . .Code: [Select]keycode 169 (keysym 0x1008ff2c, XF86Eject)
Its probably on the same list as the adjust brightness up/down: just not in the configurator... yet.
Eventually I'll get around to digging into Evan's source code. It sounds like those keycodes just need added to the right places.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 22 September 2017, 14:53:19
MUTE is definitely there, I have it programmed on my board. It should be near the bottom of the character menu near VOLU (volume up) and VOLD (volume down).
Eject on the other hand ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I saw that MUTE was mentioned in the release notes about the time I decided not to post that previous message here, which somehow got posted anyhow. (This forum is still tripping me up with its quirks.) So, EJECT. . . I couldn't find it when I was programming my Carpe JD45 either. Is this a widespread blind spot among programmable keyboards? I don't think the key code for EJECT is any kind of trade secret.
Here's what "xev" spits out when I hit it. . .Code: [Select]keycode 169 (keysym 0x1008ff2c, XF86Eject)
Its probably on the same list as the adjust brightness up/down: just not in the configurator... yet.
Eventually I'll get around to digging into Evan's source code. It sounds like those keycodes just need added to the right places.
that's correct, feel free to open a pr. I'm currently working on a new version of the configurator that will have all the keycodes, but in the mean time it would be nice to get them added to v1
Post by: vim_commando on Fri, 22 September 2017, 15:28:05
Lots of gory details (and pics!), I promise: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91703.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91703.0)
Edit: Gory details about the keyboard build, not the surgery :))
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 22 September 2017, 18:09:57
I finally got my BananaSplit60 build log done. Silly things like emergency surgery :eek: (just an appendectomy, I'm doing OK :thumb:) kinda delayed things.
Lots of gory details (and pics!), I promise: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91703.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91703.0)
Edit: Gory details about the keyboard build, not the surgery :))
Awesome build, GMK terminal would look absolutely amazing with that board.
Post by: lzlzh035 on Sat, 23 September 2017, 21:07:11
Post by: KevlarBear on Sun, 24 September 2017, 00:29:02
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Thu, 28 September 2017, 14:58:31
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 28 September 2017, 18:00:42
The next release will still support all the same layouts, I assume? Just asking because I've already got mine planned out in the layout editor, and the last thing I want to hear is "No, you can't do that anymore."
Only additional features, we will still support all the old layouts :)
Post by: Denisgsv on Fri, 29 September 2017, 06:51:28
Post by: evangs on Fri, 29 September 2017, 07:45:28
when is next one ? :eek:
End of October
Post by: iFreilicht on Fri, 29 September 2017, 09:39:39
Post by: evangs on Fri, 29 September 2017, 09:46:49
I don't know if this was mentioned, but the PCB has a second fitment issue: The QFN micro is pressed against one of the cross-braces on poker cases. I can provide pictures if you need, but it seems to me like the micro should definitely be moved to a different location.
is that poker 3 cases? I've tested with all cases I have which is the kbd fans aluminum case, tex low profile aluminum case, MD acrylic low profile, datamancer wood case, and they are all fine.
Post by: ojrask on Fri, 29 September 2017, 11:23:00
I don't know if this was mentioned, but the PCB has a second fitment issue: The QFN micro is pressed against one of the cross-braces on poker cases. I can provide pictures if you need, but it seems to me like the micro should definitely be moved to a different location.
is that poker 3 cases? I've tested with all cases I have which is the kbd fans aluminum case, tex low profile aluminum case, MD acrylic low profile, datamancer wood case, and they are all fine.
KBDfans high profile aluminum case working fine here too. I think iFreilicht is talking about those baseline plastic cases that have the supporting pieces running through the bottom.
Post by: evangs on Fri, 29 September 2017, 11:34:52
I don't know if this was mentioned, but the PCB has a second fitment issue: The QFN micro is pressed against one of the cross-braces on poker cases. I can provide pictures if you need, but it seems to me like the micro should definitely be moved to a different location.
is that poker 3 cases? I've tested with all cases I have which is the kbd fans aluminum case, tex low profile aluminum case, MD acrylic low profile, datamancer wood case, and they are all fine.
KBDfans high profile aluminum case working fine here too. I think iFreilicht is talking about those baseline plastic cases that have the supporting pieces running through the bottom.
the tex aluminum poker case has the supports running, but they must be different because there aren't any issues with those. this is the problem with non standard 60% cases. the poker cases are designed for a specific pcb and unless I have a case to work around I'm not going to know where the supports and whatnot are.
Post by: alveeno on Fri, 29 September 2017, 23:00:27
Post by: Dan_Boulet on Sat, 30 September 2017, 17:24:03
[attach=1]
[attach=2]
One thing to watch out for: be careful when using plate-mounted switches on the universal plate. In some spots, the switch doesn’t have a lot to hold on to and it’s easy for switches to be installed slightly crooked (looking at you, backslash). I had to resolder a few switches after noticing that a few of my keys were wonky.
Other than that, it was a pretty easy build for a beginner like me. Thanks to the designers of this kit.
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 30 September 2017, 18:10:39
Finally got my Banana Split build done. Ended up using Kailh BOX brown switches and soldering the LEDs directly to the PCB under the switch, as was recommended in this thread (thanks, Cotay). Works great.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
One thing to watch out for: be careful when using plate-mounted switches on the universal plate. In some spots, the switch doesn’t have a lot to hold on to and it’s easy for switches to be installed slightly crooked (looking at you, backslash). I had to resolder a few switches after noticing that a few of my keys were wonky.
Other than that, it was a pretty easy build for a beginner like me. Thanks to the designers of this kit.
Awesome build,
We revised a lot of the plate issues for next round, so hopefully that'll be easier.
Post by: lac29 on Sun, 01 October 2017, 18:10:35
I'd rather have smaller sides of the spacebar and a bigger center spacebar if possible.
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 01 October 2017, 18:14:23
@arhipio ... will there be any options for an alternative split spacebar arrangement in the next iteration. The current "split spacebar standard" of 2.75 1.25 2.25 or 2.25/2.25/2.75 is pretty bad for me since my left thumb rests between v and b while my right thumb is right under n.
I'd rather have smaller sides of the spacebar and a bigger center spacebar if possible.
We will have a new split option that might help you out more, also this iteration has a 2.25/1.75/2.25 option which may be of interest for you.
Post by: chuckdee on Mon, 02 October 2017, 09:37:50
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91584.new;topicseen#new
Post by: evangs on Mon, 02 October 2017, 09:45:46
Will this case fit the Banana Split?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91584.new;topicseen#new
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Post by: chuckdee on Mon, 02 October 2017, 09:50:06
Will this case fit the Banana Split?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91584.new;topicseen#new
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Thanks for the quick response! If it has the mount points for the BS, how would the extra ones cause an issue? Is it because of switches? I just wanted to be sure of what I'm getting into if I get it anyway.
Thanks again!
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 02 October 2017, 10:23:21
Im planning on using mine with a bananasplit, so we'll see.Will this case fit the Banana Split?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91584.new;topicseen#new
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Thanks for the quick response! If it has the mount points for the BS, how would the extra ones cause an issue? Is it because of switches? I just wanted to be sure of what I'm getting into if I get it anyway.
Thanks again!
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: chuckdee on Mon, 02 October 2017, 10:27:50
Im planning on using mine with a bananasplit, so we'll see.Will this case fit the Banana Split?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=91584.new;topicseen#new
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Thanks for the quick response! If it has the mount points for the BS, how would the extra ones cause an issue? Is it because of switches? I just wanted to be sure of what I'm getting into if I get it anyway.
Thanks again!
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Well, if you're planning to get it... I guess I am too. Thanks!
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Mon, 02 October 2017, 13:16:17
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Squinting at the images online. . . It looks like the DZ60 PCB, which is also sold through KBDfans, does have all those mount points. I'm sure you could simply grind the extra ones down if it proves necessary, though.
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 02 October 2017, 13:23:37
the extra mount points may cause an issue
Squinting at the images online. . . It looks like the DZ60 PCB, which is also sold through KBDfans, does have all those mount points. I'm sure you could simply grind the extra ones down if it proves necessary, though.
I'm only scared of it interfering with the larger smd components. But I'll test it once mine arrives and report back :)
Post by: iFreilicht on Tue, 03 October 2017, 07:46:09
I don't know if this was mentioned, but the PCB has a second fitment issue: The QFN micro is pressed against one of the cross-braces on poker cases. I can provide pictures if you need, but it seems to me like the micro should definitely be moved to a different location.
is that poker 3 cases? I've tested with all cases I have which is the kbd fans aluminum case, tex low profile aluminum case, MD acrylic low profile, datamancer wood case, and they are all fine.
KBDfans high profile aluminum case working fine here too. I think iFreilicht is talking about those baseline plastic cases that have the supporting pieces running through the bottom.
That's correct, I got mine with the Sentraq S60-X. Guess it's the cases fault then. I'll just cut a bit off.
Post by: Cotay on Wed, 11 October 2017, 01:53:52
This top plate should be compatible with the Banana Split layouts, right?
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
To me the layout looks exactly the same as the one included in this GB.
It's from this GB yeah? https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6gbids/gb_60_carbon_fiber_plates_mx_andor_alps/
I've joined for one so I hope it fits! =)
So the plates from that GB came in, and what a disappointment! The GB runners (Goose Keyboards) sent the wrong design files to the manufacturer and they produced the wrong plate. They produced a plate that is basically a standard ANSI or ISO Poker plate. It's not compatible with the Banana Split at all.
The folks running the GB admitted to me that they don't know anything about plate layouts and that the guy in their organization who does is out due to family issues. They didn't know what they were sending out and nobody caught this until complaints started rolling in. That's the last time I'm ordering anything from a Goose Keyboards GB.
Luckily I still ordered the plate here, but now I have to rethink my entire design. I had purchased the Tex Orange 60% case from Mechanicalkeyboards.com to go with my NIB GMK Carbon caps (including the Orange GMK Carbon spacebars from Massdrop). The carbon plate would have looked fantastic; I'm out quite a bit of money because Goose Keyboards is incompetent. Now I may end up using the white Revo 60% case I have on order from Massdrop and also order some other GMK set that has a spacebar kit (Laser is coming so that might work).
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 11 October 2017, 15:31:09
This top plate should be compatible with the Banana Split layouts, right?
https://i.imgur.com/XOmj7sL.jpg
To me the layout looks exactly the same as the one included in this GB.
It's from this GB yeah? https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/6gbids/gb_60_carbon_fiber_plates_mx_andor_alps/
I've joined for one so I hope it fits! =)
So the plates from that GB came in, and what a disappointment! The GB runners (Goose Keyboards) sent the wrong design files to the manufacturer and they produced the wrong plate. They produced a plate that is basically a standard ANSI or ISO Poker plate. It's not compatible with the Banana Split at all.
The folks running the GB admitted to me that they don't know anything about plate layouts and that the guy in their organization who does is out due to family issues. They didn't know what they were sending out and nobody caught this until complaints started rolling in. That's the last time I'm ordering anything from a Goose Keyboards GB.
Luckily I still ordered the plate here, but now I have to rethink my entire design. I had purchased the Tex Orange 60% case from Mechanicalkeyboards.com to go with my NIB GMK Carbon caps (including the Orange GMK Carbon spacebars from Massdrop). The carbon plate would have looked fantastic; I'm out quite a bit of money because Goose Keyboards is incompetent. Now I may end up using the white Revo 60% case I have on order from Massdrop and also order some other GMK set that has a spacebar kit (Laser is coming so that might work).
The steel plate looks great with any layout, might be worth a shot. Not to sound mean but goose keyboards is a joke, I looked at their plate designs they claim innovation when it's a straight file from swillkb's builder.
Post by: Glod on Fri, 13 October 2017, 11:53:49
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 13 October 2017, 11:58:50
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Post by: stoic-lemon on Fri, 13 October 2017, 22:35:39
Post by: UncleGary on Fri, 20 October 2017, 08:41:04
Post by: dr-slump on Tue, 24 October 2017, 11:46:44
Does anyone here have/had a similar experience?
Also: Does anyone know how I can get the "-"(minus/hyphen) symbol to register in the German layout?
Thanks in advance!
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 24 October 2017, 13:01:25
I cannot for the life of me get the Escape key to work (register). At first I thought that I have left the key empty in the keyboard layout editor but after redoing the layout and flashing different layouts multiple times, it still doesn't work.
Does anyone here have/had a similar experience?
Also: Does anyone know how I can get the "-"(minus/hyphen) symbol to register in the German layout?
Thanks in advance!
Contact evan at thevankeyboards@gmail.com, hopefully he can help you out and maybe get you a replacement.
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 24 October 2017, 13:03:34
While troubleshooting I got FLIP to flash the default TMK layout onto the board. Is there any trick to getting a QMK layout from the kbfirmware build tool to flash properly?
We tell people to use our configurator, and we currently do support QMK someone made a repository for it a while back. I think it might be a branch on the main qmk one.
Although for this round we do not have support for QMK through our configurator. This will be available for round 2, and should be made available for round 1 users.
Post by: Sputnik on Tue, 24 October 2017, 13:42:54
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Any news about this??? the end is coming.....
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 24 October 2017, 13:47:54
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Any news about this??? the end is coming.....
We'll make an announcement post this week :D
Post by: Sputnik on Tue, 24 October 2017, 13:52:22
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Any news about this??? the end is coming.....
We'll make an announcement post this week :D
:thumb: :p
Post by: evangs on Tue, 24 October 2017, 22:27:43
While troubleshooting I got FLIP to flash the default TMK layout onto the board. Is there any trick to getting a QMK layout from the kbfirmware build tool to flash properly?Should be exactly the same process. You can also try https://qmk.thevankeyboards.com (https://qmk.thevankeyboards.com)
Post by: evangs on Tue, 24 October 2017, 22:29:50
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Any news about this??? the end is coming.....
Launched on the 31st we will be posting some info soon
Post by: Sputnik on Wed, 25 October 2017, 13:44:20
In for another round if it happens, been awhile since I have been on geekhack, shame I missed this. Would be a nice addition to my collection and rotation.
2nd round happening end of this month :D. It'll be even bigger and better :thumb:
Any news about this??? the end is coming.....
Launched on the 31st we will be posting some info soon
Great, I wait.............
Post by: ojrask on Fri, 27 October 2017, 05:52:17
Post by: ChitownM2 on Fri, 27 October 2017, 13:08:53
Per key rgb would be a pretty substantial change and I'm betting that won't be incorporated into a R2 that is happening this quickly. Not saying I wouldn't like it, but from what little I know I'm pretty sure it would require a ground up redesign of the pcb.
Post by: Arhipio on Fri, 27 October 2017, 16:03:10
Does the R1 PCB support per-key RGB and if not is this planned for R2? Did not see any notes about this anywhere. Somewhere I read that R2 has some support for RGB underlighting though.
We are not supporting either.
Post by: ojrask on Fri, 27 October 2017, 17:12:59
Does the R1 PCB support per-key RGB and if not is this planned for R2? Did not see any notes about this anywhere. Somewhere I read that R2 has some support for RGB underlighting though.
We are not supporting either.
Thanks. A coworker is looking for a split space keyboard and he really likes his LEDs. Will continue the search. I'll have to see if R2 changes warrant getting another BS60 for myself though. ;)
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Fri, 27 October 2017, 19:14:16
Thanks. A coworker is looking for a split space keyboard and he really likes his LEDs. Will continue the search. I'll have to see if R2 changes warrant getting another BS60 for myself though. ;)
KBDfans DZ 60 does come with RGB underglow installed, and it supports single-color LEDs per key. However, the LEDs are oriented to the bottom/front of each key instead of the top. It's backward from most boards and backlit keycap sets, although they do have this set --> https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keycaps/products/front-side-printed-backlit-keycaps-104-87-iso-ansi-layout-translucidus-backlit-keycaps-for-corsair-strafe-k65-k70-logitech-g710 (https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keycaps/products/front-side-printed-backlit-keycaps-104-87-iso-ansi-layout-translucidus-backlit-keycaps-for-corsair-strafe-k65-k70-logitech-g710)
Post by: pvd on Fri, 27 October 2017, 20:32:37
"In Device Manager find the ATmega32u4 device and right click on it."
I don't see any ATmega32u4 device under the device manager.
Post by: kitchenace13 on Fri, 27 October 2017, 21:26:41
"In Device Manager find the ATmega32u4 device and right click on it."
I don't see any ATmega32u4 device under the device manager.
Are you doing it via PC? Just asking cause thats what I do... I've flashed mine a few times and never ever even try to find it in device manager. I just download a new HEX file from the website, start up that application Atmel Flip Bootloader, use the reset button on the keyboard bottom, use connect via USB in the Bootloader, load the hex file in the Bootloader, then click Run, then Start Application.
This website (https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide) really starting at Step 2 - Flash Compiled Firmware Onto Keyboard
Not sure if that helps.
Post by: pvd on Fri, 27 October 2017, 22:01:46
"In Device Manager find the ATmega32u4 device and right click on it."
I don't see any ATmega32u4 device under the device manager.
Are you doing it via PC? Just asking cause thats what I do... I've flashed mine a few times and never ever even try to find it in device manager. I just download a new HEX file from the website, start up that application Atmel Flip Bootloader, use the reset button on the keyboard bottom, use connect via USB in the Bootloader, load the hex file in the Bootloader, then click Run, then Start Application.
This website (https://thevankeyboards.com/pages/programming-guide) really starting at Step 2 - Flash Compiled Firmware Onto Keyboard
Not sure if that helps.
Thanks for trying to help. If I just press the button on the bottom of the board and then use the flip bootloader, I get this error.
https://imgur.com/c0fZCSr
Any ideas? I did successfully flash it a few months ago, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong now.
Post by: Zobeid Zuma on Sat, 28 October 2017, 06:27:54
Thanks for trying to help. If I just press the button on the bottom of the board and then use the flip bootloader, I get this error.
https://imgur.com/c0fZCSr
Any ideas? I did successfully flash it a few months ago, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong now.
Are you using the same computer that you did before? That's the error I got when Windows didn't have the Atmel device driver installed. It gave me fits until I figured that out. Whole ordeal documented here --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92072.msg2505956 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92072.msg2505956)
Post by: pvd on Sat, 28 October 2017, 09:47:08
Are you using the same computer that you did before? That's the error I got when Windows didn't have the Atmel device driver installed. It gave me fits until I figured that out. Whole ordeal documented here --> https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92072.msg2505956 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92072.msg2505956)
I am indeed using the same keyboard as before. I read through your thread and I think maybe my problem is appearing here: https://imgur.com/a/LDj1f
In my device manager, after pushing the reset button, the list of devices blinks, but there is still no ATm32U4DFU or any LibUSB-Win32 category on the list.
Post by: kitchenace13 on Sat, 28 October 2017, 21:48:01
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 31 October 2017, 13:08:58
Post by: kitchenace13 on Tue, 31 October 2017, 14:23:16
Thanks for trying to help. If I just press the button on the bottom of the board and then use the flip bootloader, I get this error.
https://imgur.com/c0fZCSr
Any ideas? I did successfully flash it a few months ago, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong now.
Hey man okay sorry it took me so long to reply. So here is my step by step which I just used to flash my BSplit with a new programming (reprogrammed two blank keys to pgup & pgdn). Basically, I don't look at, don't touch, and don't even open Device Manager. I don't even know where in the instructions it says to go looking for your keyboard there. See below for my steps and hopefully they help.
- Make sure your BSplit keyboard is plugged in the whole time (and the only keyboard you have plugged in?)
- Go to http://minivan.config.thevankeyboards.com
- Adjust the configuration to what you want in the TMK Configurator
- Click "Make Hex"
- Get the resulting downloaded file (i.e., bananasplit_2017-10-31-18-54-26.hex) and keep it somewhere you can find it easily
- Get a paperclip and depress the SW_RESET key on the underside of the BSplit keyboard for about 10 seconds. Just clicking it or holding it for like 1 second doesn't work, I just hold it down for a decent amount of time I think this is where your problem is?
- Start Flip 3.4.7 application with the ATMEL Icon
- Click on the USB cable icon which is "Select a Communication Medium"
- Select USB and click Open
- All of the text and circles should turn active and become a darker grey or black instead of being lightly grey'ed out like they were before. Also the bottom right corner of the window will now say "USB On"
- Click on Load Hex and select the newest Hex file you just downloaded (it should have the current date/time stamp)
- In the bottom left it should now say "Hex File Parsed"
- Verify all of the Operations Flow options on the left are checked (Erase, Blank Check, Program, Verify)
- Click Run
- The bottom left of the window should say "Verify Passed" and all the Operations Flow circles should now turn green
- Make sure the "Reset" check box is checked in the bottom right
- Click "Start Application" and the bottom right corner of the application will say "Communication OFF"
Edit: If you're still running into problems where you can't open the USB connection, can you click on the Chip icon in the ATMEL application or go to Device --> Select and make sure its pointed towards "ATmega32U4"? Then try opening the USB connection?
Post by: cshort97 on Wed, 01 November 2017, 13:48:41
I hate to jump to this conclusion, but did I somehow mess up the PCB while soldering? Could it be a bad PCB? :(
Post by: Arhipio on Wed, 01 November 2017, 13:57:03
After following all of these tips, I still get the same error (on two separate PCs, each using two different USB cables). The device shows up in Device Manager as Unknown USB Device (Code 43) and Flip still shows "Could Not Open USB Device".Go ahead and email thevankeyboards@gmail.com we can see about getting you a replacement :)
I hate to jump to this conclusion, but did I somehow mess up the PCB while soldering? Could it be a bad PCB? :(
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: dodgeyhack on Sat, 04 November 2017, 08:03:39
Need to make some modifications to the case to avoid damaging the SMDs, but the arrival of both Yuri and round two prompted me to finally build this bad boy. Love it! ;D
Side note, this one is eventually destined for one of the kbdfans grey aluminium cases that ran recently.
Post by: Arhipio on Sat, 04 November 2017, 12:17:31
(Attachment Link)
Need to make some modifications to the case to avoid damaging the SMDs, but the arrival of both Yuri and round two prompted me to finally build this bad boy. Love it! ;D
Side note, this one is eventually destined for one of the kbdfans grey aluminium cases that ran recently.
That's beautiful, well done :D
Post by: tristinDLC on Sun, 05 November 2017, 03:01:05
Post by: sithlord on Mon, 06 November 2017, 23:14:23
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 07 November 2017, 14:44:46
Any chance for PCB only in R2?Keeping it simple with only two options. Sorry we won't be changing it mid groupbuy.
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: alex1577 on Wed, 08 November 2017, 18:36:41
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 09 November 2017, 13:19:05
Is this layout supported by the pcb and plate? I can't really tell. The layout has a 1.75 shift, and the bottom row is 1.5,1.5,6.25,1.25, 3 x1. Their is also a .75 offset on the bottom row Thanks (Attachment Link)
No here are the supported layouts:
(https://i.imgur.com/ewXmFe6.jpg)
You can do a 7u with 1.5/1/1.5 on both sides or have 4 1u's on the other side.
Post by: ashwinv11 on Wed, 13 December 2017, 21:32:17
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 14 December 2017, 11:54:39
I'm a dummy and bought the wrong kind of plate from Sentraq that doesn't support the layout I want :( are there any plate extras? Or does anyone recommend a place to buy a plate for the universal layout?We'll probably have some extras i can see about sending you a prototype extra if you want?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Post by: AuthenticDanger on Fri, 15 December 2017, 12:02:38
I got part number 6-1437514-7 / 8134-HC-5P3 as that was the size I found on various posts.
Post by: ashwinv11 on Fri, 15 December 2017, 16:32:10
I'm a dummy and bought the wrong kind of plate from Sentraq that doesn't support the layout I want :( are there any plate extras? Or does anyone recommend a place to buy a plate for the universal layout?We'll probably have some extras i can see about sending you a prototype extra if you want?
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Thanks so much for the offer! I reached out to Evan and luckily he said he had a few extra plates so I'll be coordinating with him :)
Post by: chuckdee on Sat, 16 December 2017, 15:45:42
Post by: dr-slump on Sun, 17 December 2017, 11:43:53
Anyone put LED Holtites into their Banana Split build? I got some but they don't fit into the PCB... my switch Holtites do, just not the LED ones.
I got part number 6-1437514-7 / 8134-HC-5P3 as that was the size I found on various posts.
I've holtited the whole board (switches & LEDs).
The LED ones were ordered from here https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/holtite-sockets-for-leds-gold?variant=37156780815 (https://mehkee.com/collections/leds-and-sockets/products/holtite-sockets-for-leds-gold?variant=37156780815) (no model number but the specs are available)
and the switch holtites from ZealPC.
They fit perfectly (installed with a soldering iron)
Post by: chuckdee on Thu, 21 December 2017, 10:54:21
Post by: SantiGo on Sun, 21 January 2018, 06:01:35
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 23 January 2018, 13:23:40
Hello there is information when orders are ready R2 ... ???
Hopefully by the end of the month. We are waiting on the plates to be shipped to us.
Post by: arhetue on Mon, 12 February 2018, 12:53:00
Post by: ojrask on Thu, 22 February 2018, 07:10:06
Could this be related to some QMK bootmagic stuff? I had a somewhat similar issue with my UK78 when I first programmed it with QMK. Here is my QMK setup for BS60: https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/tree/master/keyboards/bananasplit/keymaps/rask
Post by: Puddsy on Thu, 22 February 2018, 11:12:01
Just got my shipping notification! Looking forward to seeing the board - anyone know if this will fit into an FC660 housing?
for sure will not
Post by: ReverbSlush on Tue, 06 March 2018, 12:55:28
(https://i.imgur.com/cdg3x4c.jpg?1)
Post by: chuckdee on Tue, 06 March 2018, 14:47:13
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 06 March 2018, 17:26:43
Nice... canvas looks good on there! Has me thinking of using Godspeed XDA!
I just got XDA Godspeed I was gonna slap it on a BananaSplit. I can maybe make a post this weekend with some pics :D
Post by: chuckdee on Tue, 06 March 2018, 17:32:54
Nice... canvas looks good on there! Has me thinking of using Godspeed XDA!
I just got XDA Godspeed I was gonna slap it on a BananaSplit. I can maybe make a post this weekend with some pics :D
Still waiting on the extras to go on sale... so I can't actually do it yet. :)
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 06 March 2018, 18:54:08
Nice... canvas looks good on there! Has me thinking of using Godspeed XDA!
I just got XDA Godspeed I was gonna slap it on a BananaSplit. I can maybe make a post this weekend with some pics :D
Still waiting on the extras to go on sale... so I can't actually do it yet. :)
I'm pretty sure I stated it somewhere but we have like 10 boards. We aren't going to have extras. Our sales weren't high enough to stock up on inventory :/ if we had 200 we could have easily bought 50. We only hit 100, meaning we only bought 20 or so extras which have been and are being used as replacements for people.
Post by: chuckdee on Tue, 06 March 2018, 19:29:50
Nice... canvas looks good on there! Has me thinking of using Godspeed XDA!
I just got XDA Godspeed I was gonna slap it on a BananaSplit. I can maybe make a post this weekend with some pics :D
Still waiting on the extras to go on sale... so I can't actually do it yet. :)
I'm pretty sure I stated it somewhere but we have like 10 boards. We aren't going to have extras. Our sales weren't high enough to stock up on inventory :/ if we had 200 we could have easily bought 50. We only hit 100, meaning we only bought 20 or so extras which have been and are being used as replacements for people.
OK, cool to know. I'd read somewhere that the extras were going to be posted after the buy, but if there are no extras, there are no extras. Thanks for the clarification.
Post by: vim_commando on Mon, 19 March 2018, 21:01:43
I'm pretty sure I stated it somewhere but we have like 10 boards. We aren't going to have extras. Our sales weren't high enough to stock up on inventory :/ if we had 200 we could have easily bought 50. We only hit 100, meaning we only bought 20 or so extras which have been and are being used as replacements for people.
Oh noes! Don't tell me I'm going to have to do a non-banana split PCB for my GMK Laser build!
Where there's a will, there's a way...
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 19 March 2018, 21:35:12
Post by: chuckdee on Mon, 19 March 2018, 22:08:26
Sorry for the miscommunication. I talked to evan we will have extras up on the site but there will be a very tiny amount. Keep your eyes peeled on the site :thumb:
Thanks for letting us know! I'll be on the lookout! :thumb:
Post by: sithlord on Wed, 21 March 2018, 23:51:07
Sorry for the miscommunication. I talked to evan we will have extras up on the site but there will be a very tiny amount. Keep your eyes peeled on the site :thumb:
I got a 404 not found when searching...don't tell me I already missed it.
I want another PCB to build one more...
Post by: Arhipio on Thu, 22 March 2018, 11:33:00
Sorry for the miscommunication. I talked to evan we will have extras up on the site but there will be a very tiny amount. Keep your eyes peeled on the site :thumb:
I got a 404 not found when searching...don't tell me I already missed it.
I want another PCB to build one more...
No not yet, we're still waiting on the warehouse to ship us the extras :)
Post by: chuckdee on Thu, 22 March 2018, 12:09:01
Sorry for the miscommunication. I talked to evan we will have extras up on the site but there will be a very tiny amount. Keep your eyes peeled on the site :thumb:
I got a 404 not found when searching...don't tell me I already missed it.
I want another PCB to build one more...
Pretty sure he'll announce it on the mailing list when he puts it up.
Post by: sithlord on Tue, 27 March 2018, 20:41:50
Post by: Arhipio on Sun, 08 April 2018, 15:48:31
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/thevankeyboards/hub-mechanical-keyboard-key-caps?ref=3nyt34
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94974.0
Post by: Arhipio on Tue, 10 April 2018, 21:56:58
https://thevankeyboards.com/collections/catalog/products/bananasplit-v2-pre-order
Grab em before theyre gone :D
Post by: chuckdee on Tue, 10 April 2018, 21:58:17
BananaSplit R2 leftovers are available:
https://thevankeyboards.com/collections/catalog/products/bananasplit-v2-pre-order
Grab em before theyre gone :D
I was just posting this as you were. :) Thanks!
Post by: acantha on Tue, 17 April 2018, 09:35:51
BananaSplit R2 leftovers are available:
https://thevankeyboards.com/collections/catalog/products/bananasplit-v2-pre-order
Grab em before theyre gone :D
when are the leftovers expected to ship?
Post by: evangs on Tue, 17 April 2018, 10:40:46
BananaSplit R2 leftovers are available:
https://thevankeyboards.com/collections/catalog/products/bananasplit-v2-pre-order
Grab em before theyre gone :D
when are the leftovers expected to ship?
should be any day now. I'll ping Tom again and find out when he plans to drop them off
Post by: acantha on Tue, 17 April 2018, 10:50:17
Post by: sithlord on Tue, 17 April 2018, 10:51:15
I didn't get any emails...oh well.
Will there be a round 3?
Post by: evangs on Tue, 17 April 2018, 10:56:22
Annnnnd....I saw they were sold out.... :(
I didn't get any emails...oh well.
Will there be a round 3?
I sent out an email to TheVan Keyboards mailing list.
We are looking at doing a round 3, stay tuned
Post by: oli on Tue, 17 July 2018, 11:21:33
Annnnnd....I saw they were sold out.... :(
I didn't get any emails...oh well.
Will there be a round 3?
I sent out an email to TheVan Keyboards mailing list.
We are looking at doing a round 3, stay tuned
Any news on Round 3?
Post by: beekey on Fri, 20 July 2018, 09:47:07
R3 please.
Post by: sithlord on Sun, 29 July 2018, 02:15:39
Looks like my R2 PCB USB C port just died. I hope I can repair it. :-/
R3 please.
:(...https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92342.msg2560931#msg2560931
Post by: beekey on Sun, 29 July 2018, 13:50:29
I was able to fix it, but would buy a R3 if they do it.Looks like my R2 PCB USB C port just died. I hope I can repair it. :-/
R3 please.
:(...https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=92342.msg2560931#msg2560931
Post by: Arhipio on Mon, 30 July 2018, 10:16:30
Annnnnd....I saw they were sold out.... :(
I didn't get any emails...oh well.
Will there be a round 3?
I sent out an email to TheVan Keyboards mailing list.
We are looking at doing a round 3, stay tuned
Any news on Round 3?
Focus right now is on Kumo for them. Once that is done we will start looking into what we want to do for BananaSplit R3.