Author Topic: [GB] Round 1: CA66 Custom Keyboard Kit (CLOSED)  (Read 238856 times)

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Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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(Attachment Link)

Had to cover it in a random mix of caps until Laser and Taro arrive, but this board is gorgeous!

Here is how mine ended up:

Show Image


Potato but :)

Show Image


Here's mine. Managed to get QMK working properly.
(Attachment Link)

You guys rock. :cool:
Kindly appreciate for those pics.

ohh! one more helpful build tip if u want forever backlit LEDs...when looking at the pcb switch side up, all the LED positive side was on the right...at least for hhkb layout with split spacebar. i did not try the winkeyless or full size spacebar. hope this helps.


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There are signs for every led pin hole, like this:
196907-0
And those on CA66 PCB are inverted mostly.

Here's mine. Managed to get QMK working properly.
(Attachment Link)
How did you manage to flash it using qmk?

You can compile a hex file with QMK. Please check our guide in the main post.

Offline Pavilions

  • Posts: 88
  • Location: In the World~!
How can I order this Keyboard?

Offline jlboi69

  • Posts: 19
  • Location: Bay Area, CA
Here's mine. Managed to get QMK working properly.
(Attachment Link)
How did you manage to flash it using qmk?

For me, I cloned the QMK repo, made my preferred layout, then compiled the .hex file myself using the Ubuntu terminal from the Windows Store. The only thing that seems different from this is that this board uses a different bootloader as opposed to all the other QMK boards, so you can't flash it using QMK toolbox. You have to use the reflash tool from ydkb.io.

You could also generate a QMK .hex from the online QMK configurator and use that too.

Does anyone know a way to change the bootloader so we can use QMK toolbox? I'm just assuming we can't from what others here have said.

Offline ptiede

  • Posts: 267
Oh ok I misunderstood I thought you found a way to flash it using qmk toolbox. I think there really isn't any way to flash it without using the ydkb flash tool.

Offline jlboi69

  • Posts: 19
  • Location: Bay Area, CA
Yeah. I wonder if it's possible to ISP flash the default QMK stuff onto the microcontroller?

Offline TheIronCore

  • Posts: 19
All these amazing builds and I'm just sitting here waiting on GMK Red Samurai



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Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 537
Yeah. I wonder if it's possible to ISP flash the default QMK stuff onto the microcontroller?

Theoretically you can flash the DFU bootloader onto anything. In reality, without knowing how they've wired reset and hwboot, you run the risk of having a board that can only reliabily jump to bootloader via soft reset, which is never ideal.

Offline wjchen

  • Posts: 6
  • Location: Taiwan
Here's mine. Managed to get QMK working properly.
(Attachment Link)
How did you manage to flash it using qmk?

For me, I cloned the QMK repo, made my preferred layout, then compiled the .hex file myself using the Ubuntu terminal from the Windows Store. The only thing that seems different from this is that this board uses a different bootloader as opposed to all the other QMK boards, so you can't flash it using QMK toolbox. You have to use the reflash tool from ydkb.io.

You could also generate a QMK .hex from the online QMK configurator and use that too.

Does anyone know a way to change the bootloader so we can use QMK toolbox? I'm just assuming we can't from what others here have said.

Yeah. I wonder if it's possible to ISP flash the default QMK stuff onto the microcontroller?

Theoretically you can flash the DFU bootloader onto anything. In reality, without knowing how they've wired reset and hwboot, you run the risk of having a board that can only reliabily jump to bootloader via soft reset, which is never ideal.

I can confirm the board works flawlessly with DFU bootloader, I've already reflashed mine and it is working correctly.

For people considering change their bootloader to DFU bootloader and be able to flash via QMK toolbox, here is some information.

The board uses the BootloadHID bootloader, and can be flashed via BootloadHID. (And of course the YDKB's reflash tool, which is actually a wrapper of BootloadHID and dfu-programmer ... etc.)
 (https://github.com/whiteneon/bootloadHID/blob/master/commandline/bootloadHID.exe)

I believe it won't be hard to make QMK toolbox support BootloadHID bootloader since both the binary and source code of bootloadHID.exe are available. The QMK toolbox will need to be modified to recognize devices using BootloadHID in bootloader mode. (VID: 16C0, PID: 05DF)

To change the bootloader to Atmel DFU bootloader, you'll need to use an ISP flasher to ISP flash the DFU bootloader.(https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/util/bootloader_atmega32u4_1_0_0.hex)
Also, you will need to change the high fuse setting to 0x99 to make the board functions correctly with DFU bootloader. (IMPORTANT)

AVR ISP pinouts for CA66 PCB
196921-0
« Last Edit: Sat, 02 June 2018, 11:42:10 by wjchen »

Offline lumpofunworth

  • Posts: 38
  • Location: TX
  • I’m a guy, that does stuff, with things, for fun.
To add to everyone else’s excitement, I will definitely be in if this runs again!
I like keyboards like I like people... I like keyboards a bit more come to think of it... nvm

Offline dc_in_sf

  • Posts: 104
  • Location: San Francisco
  • Old Bastard
Hooked the CA66 up to my Surface Pro while watching the kids in the back room. The lip on the top bezel makes for a nice rest for the bottom of the Surface Pro


Offline donut_sauce

  • Posts: 390
Here's mine. Managed to get QMK working properly.
(Attachment Link)
How did you manage to flash it using qmk?

For me, I cloned the QMK repo, made my preferred layout, then compiled the .hex file myself using the Ubuntu terminal from the Windows Store. The only thing that seems different from this is that this board uses a different bootloader as opposed to all the other QMK boards, so you can't flash it using QMK toolbox. You have to use the reflash tool from ydkb.io.

You could also generate a QMK .hex from the online QMK configurator and use that too.

Does anyone know a way to change the bootloader so we can use QMK toolbox? I'm just assuming we can't from what others here have said.

Yeah. I wonder if it's possible to ISP flash the default QMK stuff onto the microcontroller?

Theoretically you can flash the DFU bootloader onto anything. In reality, without knowing how they've wired reset and hwboot, you run the risk of having a board that can only reliabily jump to bootloader via soft reset, which is never ideal.

I can confirm the board works flawlessly with DFU bootloader, I've already reflashed mine and it is working correctly.

For people considering change their bootloader to DFU bootloader and be able to flash via QMK toolbox, here is some information.

The board uses the BootloadHID bootloader, and can be flashed via BootloadHID. (And of course the YDKB's reflash tool, which is actually a wrapper of BootloadHID and dfu-programmer ... etc.)
 (https://github.com/whiteneon/bootloadHID/blob/master/commandline/bootloadHID.exe)

I believe it won't be hard to make QMK toolbox support BootloadHID bootloader since both the binary and source code of bootloadHID.exe are available. The QMK toolbox will need to be modified to recognize devices using BootloadHID in bootloader mode. (VID: 16C0, PID: 05DF)

To change the bootloader to Atmel DFU bootloader, you'll need to use an ISP flasher to ISP flash the DFU bootloader.(https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/blob/master/util/bootloader_atmega32u4_1_0_0.hex)
Also, you will need to change the high fuse setting to 0x99 to make the board functions correctly with DFU bootloader. (IMPORTANT)

AVR ISP pinouts for CA66 PCB
[ Attachment Invalid Or Does Not Exist ]
Thanks for posting this info! I'm considering trying this with my spare pcb.  I would not have not have known about changing the high fuse setting so that specific info is super helpful.

Offline KeLorean

  • Posts: 167
  • Location: Space Coast, FL
All these amazing builds and I'm just sitting here waiting on GMK Red Samurai

Show Image


Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk
we’re waiting with u.



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Click it OR Ticket!

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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AVR ISP pinouts for CA66 PCB
(Attachment Link)

Thanks for helping my mate. So detail! :eek:

Hooked the CA66 up to my Surface Pro while watching the kids in the back room. The lip on the top bezel makes for a nice rest for the bottom of the Surface Pro

Show Image


That's a way we were expecting to see when using CA66. ;D

Offline dodgeyhack

  • Posts: 42
  • Location: Sydney, Australia
Oh how I wish I'd seen this when the group buy was running.
Great job OP!

Offline Bael_Zharon

  • Posts: 27
Any Silvers out there looking to swap for a Black? I just got my hands on the black one and might want the silver over it.

Offline wjchen

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  • Location: Taiwan
Thanks for posting this info! I'm considering trying this with my spare pcb.  I would not have not have known about changing the high fuse setting so that specific info is super helpful.

No problem, I myself stuck for a bit until I realized the size (and some behaviors) of these two bootloaders are different. Therefore, different BOOTSZ1, BOOTSZ0, and BOOTRST fuse bits are required.
Be sure not to mess with other fuse settings (especially LOCKBIT) though.

Thanks for helping my mate. So detail! :eek:

Happy to help.  :cool:




For people without access to the hardware required for ISP flashing but still would like to use QMK toolbox for firmware flashing, I've modified the QMK toolbox to be compatible with devices using bootloadHID.
My fork of the QMK toolbox can be found here. (https://github.com/wjchen-vlsi/qmk_toolbox)
I would suggest you wait for jackhumbert to review my changes and hopefully merge my pull request into the upstream branch (and a official release).
If you absolutely can't wait, here is the compiled QMK toolbox executable that supports bootloadHID. (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WMQJStONnROpGvzD4XitX0RXJuPk3s7u)

Offline TheIronCore

  • Posts: 19
Thanks for posting this info! I'm considering trying this with my spare pcb.  I would not have not have known about changing the high fuse setting so that specific info is super helpful.

No problem, I myself stuck for a bit until I realized the size (and some behaviors) of these two bootloaders are different. Therefore, different BOOTSZ1, BOOTSZ0, and BOOTRST fuse bits are required.
Be sure not to mess with other fuse settings (especially LOCKBIT) though.

Thanks for helping my mate. So detail! :eek:

Happy to help.  :cool:




For people without access to the hardware required for ISP flashing but still would like to use QMK toolbox for firmware flashing, I've modified the QMK toolbox to be compatible with devices using bootloadHID.
My fork of the QMK toolbox can be found here. (https://github.com/wjchen-vlsi/qmk_toolbox)
I would suggest you wait for jackhumbert to review my changes and hopefully merge my pull request into the upstream branch (and a official release).
If you absolutely can't wait, here is the compiled QMK toolbox executable that supports bootloadHID. (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1WMQJStONnROpGvzD4XitX0RXJuPk3s7u)

Super awesome dude!!

When you say wait for him to review and so on, are you talking about the guy managing the qmk toolbox? So like it will be a part of the software at some point?

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Offline wjchen

  • Posts: 6
  • Location: Taiwan
Super awesome dude!!

When you say wait for him to review and so on, are you talking about the guy managing the qmk toolbox? So like it will be a part of the software at some point?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

That's correct.

Offline ctrl

  • Posts: 294
  • Location: Umeå, Sweden
Really happy with the way the brass plate and titanium badge match each other. Pic doesn't do the keyboard justice. It's an incredibly beautiful piece of metal.

Now to wait for those incoming vintage blacks and vintage linear greys, save up for DSA Granite and learn how to solder properly. Possibly also look into a custom titanium badge. By the way, is that CAD file released publicly yet? It was mentioned earlier in the thread.

It's a slow process, but I'm in it for the long haul.

196964-0

Offline TheIronCore

  • Posts: 19
Super awesome dude!!

When you say wait for him to review and so on, are you talking about the guy managing the qmk toolbox? So like it will be a part of the software at some point?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

That's correct.
It's fantastic to have people like you in the community, thank you for the work!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

Hello? Yes, this is dog

Offline TheIronCore

  • Posts: 19
Hooked the CA66 up to my Surface Pro while watching the kids in the back room. The lip on the top bezel makes for a nice rest for the bottom of the Surface Pro

Show Image

I gotta say, that looks freaking awesome dude!! Watch out for scratches from that surface aluminum butt though :)

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Offline donut_sauce

  • Posts: 390
Super awesome dude!!

When you say wait for him to review and so on, are you talking about the guy managing the qmk toolbox? So like it will be a part of the software at some point?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

That's correct.
This is awesome, wjche. Just tried out your fork of the qmk toolbox but am still getting a no devices listed message. Do i have to adjust something?

Offline wjchen

  • Posts: 6
  • Location: Taiwan
This is awesome, wjche. Just tried out your fork of the qmk toolbox but am still getting a no devices listed message. Do i have to adjust something?




Did you put your board into bootloader mode first? (Plug in the cable while pressing the ESC should do the trick)
If your board is indeed in bootloader mode and reopening the toolbox still doesnt work for you, would you mind looking up the vendor ID and product ID of the board (in bootloader mode) for me?

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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Super awesome dude!!

When you say wait for him to review and so on, are you talking about the guy managing the qmk toolbox? So like it will be a part of the software at some point?

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

That's correct.
This is awesome, wjche. Just tried out your fork of the qmk toolbox but am still getting a no devices listed message. Do i have to adjust something?

I tried it and it worked. :p

Really happy with the way the brass plate and titanium badge match each other. Pic doesn't do the keyboard justice. It's an incredibly beautiful piece of metal.

Now to wait for those incoming vintage blacks and vintage linear greys, save up for DSA Granite and learn how to solder properly. Possibly also look into a custom titanium badge. By the way, is that CAD file released publicly yet? It was mentioned earlier in the thread.

It's a slow process, but I'm in it for the long haul.


Nice nice nice. Vintage blacks are going to rock with it. :thumb:
I'll work on those files tomorrow. Totally forgot it. :eek:
« Last Edit: Sun, 03 June 2018, 12:22:54 by PlayKeyboardTW »

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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Guys, some dark red case photos for you, with GMK 9009 round2.

196982-0196984-1
196986-2196988-3196990-4

Offline lecorsair

  • Posts: 214
Guys, some dark red case photos for you, with GMK 9009 round2.

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Perfect! That's perfection right there. Please have another gb!

Offline Kerasan

  • Posts: 379
  • Location: Italy
Guys, some dark red case photos for you, with GMK 9009 round2.

(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

I really like this color, this is very elegant  :thumb:

KMK Labs.

Offline child

  • Posts: 112
I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work :( It seems to be PCB issue, as tweezer test fails as well. I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this? I soldered several keyboards so far, but other than that my knowledge of soldering and electronics is really poor.

Offline ctrl

  • Posts: 294
  • Location: Umeå, Sweden
Really happy with the way the brass plate and titanium badge match each other. Pic doesn't do the keyboard justice. It's an incredibly beautiful piece of metal.

Now to wait for those incoming vintage blacks and vintage linear greys, save up for DSA Granite and learn how to solder properly. Possibly also look into a custom titanium badge. By the way, is that CAD file released publicly yet? It was mentioned earlier in the thread.

It's a slow process, but I'm in it for the long haul.


Nice nice nice. Vintage blacks are going to rock with it. :thumb:
I'll work on those files tomorrow. Totally forgot it. :eek:

Excellent! Custom badges is like a "hidden" feature of this board. I think it'll be really interesting to see where that leads and what people in the community will come up with.

Any further news about a possibility for a CAD66 PCB GB? Perhaps too soon to say. Just wondering because individually controlled LEDs. ;D

Offline BobCarltheThird

  • Posts: 239
Hey guys, I decided to test my PCB before soldering it and was wondering what the top two keys on the right of the LEDs do on the stock keymap. The one on the very top seems to mess with the LEDs and the one below it doesn't seem to do anything. Also I think the third LED down is dead as well. Any advice would be appreciated.
« Last Edit: Sun, 03 June 2018, 18:09:22 by BobCarltheThird »
***loads of Vaseline for my meme TMO50 -- Acereconkeys


Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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Perfect! That's perfection right there. Please have another gb!

Sure. ;)

I really like this color, this is very elegant  :thumb:

KMK Labs.

Same here. :p

Excellent! Custom badges is like a "hidden" feature of this board. I think it'll be really interesting to see where that leads and what people in the community will come up with.

Any further news about a possibility for a CAD66 PCB GB? Perhaps too soon to say. Just wondering because individually controlled LEDs. ;D

We'll see. ;)

I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work :( It seems to be PCB issue, as tweezer test fails as well. I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this? I soldered several keyboards so far, but other than that my knowledge of soldering and electronics is really poor.

Can you post some photos for me to have a look?

Hey guys, I decided to test my PCB before soldering it and was wondering what the top two keys on the right of the LEDs do on the stock keymap. The one on the very top seems to mess with the LEDs and the one below it doesn't seem to do anything. Also I think the third LED down is dead as well. Any advice would be appreciated.

Try to flash it with your own hex to test it. Those two keys are both for RGB animations.
That's a WS2812b RGB led. It would be great if you can find some near your place to replace it. :-*

Offline child

  • Posts: 112

I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work :( It seems to be PCB issue, as tweezer test fails as well. I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this? I soldered several keyboards so far, but other than that my knowledge of soldering and electronics is really poor.

Can you post some photos for me to have a look?


Photo attached - I could not focus it any better, but it should be visible. It's the black one on the right. Should I try aligning it manually and soldering its left leg?

Offline child

  • Posts: 112
Also here goes my build, I'll put some more info once I resolve left arrow key issue.

Offline Jubileus

  • Posts: 105
Photo attached - I could not focus it any better, but it should be visible. It's the black one on the right. Should I try aligning it manually and soldering its left leg?

Yeah you should. Its not too hard. It looks like its not making contact to the solder point

Offline Jedi

  • Posts: 512
  • Location: 702


I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work  I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this?

I looked at your pic and this would be a very easy fix. Grab a hold of the resistor with your tweezers and apply light pressure with your soldering gun to each side to remove the resistor. The solder comes off just like tape. Then make sure to clean up either sides excess solder to prevent bleed over from the two contact points. Reset the resistor between the two contacts and tap the soldering tip to the first side to wet it to the pcb and then the second side. Please be careful not to ever touch the tip to the black resistor itself, only to the contact points.

The work is very forgiving otherwise as you may need to repeat the step to get it right.

Oh and please be sure to observe polarity so make sure it is seated with the writing in the same direction as all the other resistors.

Offline wowremy

  • Posts: 93
Really happy with the way the brass plate and titanium badge match each other. Pic doesn't do the keyboard justice. It's an incredibly beautiful piece of metal.

Now to wait for those incoming vintage blacks and vintage linear greys, save up for DSA Granite and learn how to solder properly. Possibly also look into a custom titanium badge. By the way, is that CAD file released publicly yet? It was mentioned earlier in the thread.

It's a slow process, but I'm in it for the long haul.

Missed the GB and was able to snag a Black one from someone thankfully, but if they ever do another round.. Holy **** that is the best color.

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work :( It seems to be PCB issue, as tweezer test fails as well. I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this? I soldered several keyboards so far, but other than that my knowledge of soldering and electronics is really poor.

Can you post some photos for me to have a look?


Photo attached - I could not focus it any better, but it should be visible. It's the black one on the right. Should I try aligning it manually and soldering its left leg?

Yeah exactly as Jedi said. Give it a try! :thumb:
By the way, the combo is sick! :eek:

Really happy with the way the brass plate and titanium badge match each other. Pic doesn't do the keyboard justice. It's an incredibly beautiful piece of metal.

Now to wait for those incoming vintage blacks and vintage linear greys, save up for DSA Granite and learn how to solder properly. Possibly also look into a custom titanium badge. By the way, is that CAD file released publicly yet? It was mentioned earlier in the thread.

It's a slow process, but I'm in it for the long haul.

Missed the GB and was able to snag a Black one from someone thankfully, but if they ever do another round.. Holy **** that is the best color.

All colors are gorgeous. ;D

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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For those who want to custom your plates and badges, you can find them files here (also in the bottom of main post):
https://goo.gl/DXNwqL

Enjoy! :thumb:
« Last Edit: Mon, 04 June 2018, 07:33:26 by PlayKeyboardTW »

Offline Makker4

  • Posts: 5
  • Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Anyone know a place where I can order a custom angled USB C cable? :D

Offline Shell058

  • Posts: 52
  • sheep sheep sheep
So, my CA66 is having a strange issue. I was using it with my work Macbook Pro, and it was fine for hours, but then I woke the laptop from sleep mode. The LEDs turned white, and the keyboard is no longer working. I unplugged and replugged it, which didn't work. I have tried reflashing it but it will not enter bootloader mode. The LEDs come on but are solid white. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?

Offline child

  • Posts: 112
Photo attached - I could not focus it any better, but it should be visible. It's the black one on the right. Should I try aligning it manually and soldering its left leg?

Yeah you should. Its not too hard. It looks like its not making contact to the solder point



I just finished building mine, unfortunately left arrow key doesn't work  I see the black element near that key is misaligned. How can I fix this?

I looked at your pic and this would be a very easy fix. Grab a hold of the resistor with your tweezers and apply light pressure with your soldering gun to each side to remove the resistor. The solder comes off just like tape. Then make sure to clean up either sides excess solder to prevent bleed over from the two contact points. Reset the resistor between the two contacts and tap the soldering tip to the first side to wet it to the pcb and then the second side. Please be careful not to ever touch the tip to the black resistor itself, only to the contact points.

The work is very forgiving otherwise as you may need to repeat the step to get it right.

Oh and please be sure to observe polarity so make sure it is seated with the writing in the same direction as all the other resistors.

It works :D

In the heat of the battle I initially soldered a resistor at neighboring switch :p Those parts are small compared to switches so it took me a while, but now my left arrow key works perfectly.

Thanks for everyone for their solutions  :thumb:

Offline child

  • Posts: 112
My thoughts on the keyboard:

  • It's brown in low light and burgundy in bright light. If the whole case was the color of the back plate I would be happy, but as it is it's a bit too browny for me
  • It's really fast for typing and I really enjoy the bottom edge which is enough for my thumbs to rest (which is the way I'm used to put them)
  • I like the configurator, but I would really love to be able to do everything in Linux, so I might try the solution for alternate bootloader soon
  • The texture is not as smooth as my other anodized keyboards, which makes for more classy look, but becomes dirty very quickly
  • The case doesn't sit entirely flush on the desk, I had to add a small rubber feet at one side
  • This is the first keyboard I am completely sure I need to mod with silencing foam, because there is a lot of echo and ping - given I use Zilents and properly lubed stabilizers for the first time it would be a shame to not keep it really silent.
  • The cable I used initially (which comes from my phone) worked fine, but when I started using dedicated one I have to apply significant force to remove it
  • The case is high profile, but some of the caps of my MT3 /dev/tty set are tiny bit above the case
  • My case has some minor imperfections on the inner side of the bottom plate (which I don't care about)

This may sound like some bashing, but in fact this keyboard comes very close to my mythical "end game"  :) The good stuff, like perfect layout, nice bottom space, low height and QMK support I knew from the start, so while I would love to receive perfect product I am happy what I got is close enough and with some mods I should be able to make it the best keyboard I have.

Also props to GB runner for quick responses and basically on time delivery - reading through some other threads it's really not that common these days. Btw. my package was picked up at 1am in HK and arrived to my office in Poland the next day at 3pm, which I find amazing. That's probably the magic of express delivery :)

Offline TerryMathews

  • Posts: 537
My thoughts on the keyboard:

  • I like the configurator, but I would really love to be able to do everything in Linux, so I might try the solution for alternate bootloader soon


BootloadHID is available for Linux

Offline wjchen

  • Posts: 6
  • Location: Taiwan
  • The case doesn't sit entirely flush on the desk, I had to add a small rubber feet at one side

Probably due to the rubber stripes come with the board not all the way in the slots (i.e. air bubbles between the case and the double-sided bonding tape), try to apply forces along rubber stripes (to squeeze the air bubbles out) and see if that helps.

Offline _65535_

  • Posts: 3
Is it possible to enable NKRO using the online editor? It looks like I can only use 6kro.
I'm a Korean guy living in the U.S. I can't proxy things, but I can translate Korean to English or vice versa :)

미국 유학생입니다. 번역이 필요하시다면 맡겨주세욥!

Using: Leopold FC980C, Massdrop x OLKB Planck (78g Zealios + Zealencios), Infinity Ergodox (w/ palm rest, Alps Orange), Geek PPS keycaps

Offline donut_sauce

  • Posts: 390
  • This is the first keyboard I am completely sure I need to mod with silencing foam, because there is a lot of echo and ping - given I use
I put silencing foam inside mine and it sounds much better.

Offline eyedrop

  • Posts: 601
  • Location: Keeb Abyss
I put silencing foam inside mine and it sounds much better.

What kind of foam did you use?

Offline donut_sauce

  • Posts: 390
just that cheap silverstone stuff on amazon.

Offline PlayKeyboardTW

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So, my CA66 is having a strange issue. I was using it with my work Macbook Pro, and it was fine for hours, but then I woke the laptop from sleep mode. The LEDs turned white, and the keyboard is no longer working. I unplugged and replugged it, which didn't work. I have tried reflashing it but it will not enter bootloader mode. The LEDs come on but are solid white. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?

Try it on another device?

It works :D

In the heat of the battle I initially soldered a resistor at neighboring switch :p Those parts are small compared to switches so it took me a while, but now my left arrow key works perfectly.

Thanks for everyone for their solutions  :thumb:

Cheers! That also helped me. :p

My thoughts on the keyboard:

  • It's brown in low light and burgundy in bright light. If the whole case was the color of the back plate I would be happy, but as it is it's a bit too browny for me
  • It's really fast for typing and I really enjoy the bottom edge which is enough for my thumbs to rest (which is the way I'm used to put them)
  • I like the configurator, but I would really love to be able to do everything in Linux, so I might try the solution for alternate bootloader soon
  • The texture is not as smooth as my other anodized keyboards, which makes for more classy look, but becomes dirty very quickly
  • The case doesn't sit entirely flush on the desk, I had to add a small rubber feet at one side
  • This is the first keyboard I am completely sure I need to mod with silencing foam, because there is a lot of echo and ping - given I use Zilents and properly lubed stabilizers for the first time it would be a shame to not keep it really silent.
  • The cable I used initially (which comes from my phone) worked fine, but when I started using dedicated one I have to apply significant force to remove it
  • The case is high profile, but some of the caps of my MT3 /dev/tty set are tiny bit above the case
  • My case has some minor imperfections on the inner side of the bottom plate (which I don't care about)

This may sound like some bashing, but in fact this keyboard comes very close to my mythical "end game"  :) The good stuff, like perfect layout, nice bottom space, low height and QMK support I knew from the start, so while I would love to receive perfect product I am happy what I got is close enough and with some mods I should be able to make it the best keyboard I have.

Also props to GB runner for quick responses and basically on time delivery - reading through some other threads it's really not that common these days. Btw. my package was picked up at 1am in HK and arrived to my office in Poland the next day at 3pm, which I find amazing. That's probably the magic of express delivery :)

Thanks for comments. We'll try to improve some of them next time. :thumb:

Is it possible to enable NKRO using the online editor? It looks like I can only use 6kro.

Try holding N + Spacebar, and then plug in your cable to see if it works.

I put silencing foam inside mine and it sounds much better.

What kind of foam did you use?

Many things like normal foam and EVA will do. Try'em. :p

Offline Bael_Zharon

  • Posts: 27
So, my CA66 is having a strange issue. I was using it with my work Macbook Pro, and it was fine for hours, but then I woke the laptop from sleep mode. The LEDs turned white, and the keyboard is no longer working. I unplugged and replugged it, which didn't work. I have tried reflashing it but it will not enter bootloader mode. The LEDs come on but are solid white. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix it?

Sounds exactly like an issue myself and some other QMK users are experiencing (with an M65-A). There was a closed issue on GitHub that I recently posted on and resurrected - please read through this and follow these instructions. I think it will help. And ignore the "boot magic" stuff, it seems to just be an issue when going in/out of sleep mode with RGB on.

https://github.com/qmk/qmk_firmware/issues/2197