Finall , The True Space Saver that doesn't save any space.compared to a modern 103 yeah but compared to a M it does save quite a bit of space :)
a black case with black keys at least?
big blue LEDs that everyone seems to hate on,
They already paid for the mold, so we're prolly stuck with the lock lights.
A possible remedy is a Sticker to cover it up completely, OR a sticker with occlusion that is less visually obtrusive, for example 3 vertical window stripes no text.
Also, If I were to buy one, I'd go in and swap the LEDs for RED, This blue stuff needs to DIE..
They already paid for the mold, so we're prolly stuck with the lock lights.
A possible remedy is a Sticker to cover it up completely, OR a sticker with occlusion that is less visually obtrusive, for example 3 vertical window stripes no text.
Also, If I were to buy one, I'd go in and swap the LEDs for RED, This blue stuff needs to DIE..
It IS a prototype. They may make changes to the overall design.
Maybe an amber or orange.
although i would not recommend anyone to just replace the blue LEDs with red ones, you will have very bright indicators for a (relatively) very short time, if you want to mod it that way add a resistor in series (value to be determined by the brightness you want, i would expect 1k to 10k to be fine, i modded my old M with a 3k for pink LEDs)
although i would not recommend anyone to just replace the blue LEDs with red ones, you will have very bright indicators for a (relatively) very short time, if you want to mod it that way add a resistor in series (value to be determined by the brightness you want, i would expect 1k to 10k to be fine, i modded my old M with a 3k for pink LEDs)
we can buy 100-1000 packs of leds for a few bucks. don't think this will be a huge concern,
Overall, they're nearly in the same voltage range, you can find red that goes higher or lower to match, or you can buy the resistors.
Point is, it's not a hard mod, even if we wing it on voltage.
Heck if over-driven and the LED dims, even better.
I have never had to add a resistor when swapping lock light LEDs, I suppose I don't use any lock lights very often though either. I know there must be other instances though where I straight swapped green or blue for red with no ill effect. I wonder how many are under driven straight from the factory. In fact, I wonder if that's a common part of the design. Run the LEDs at the lowest voltage they can without severely crippling brightness in any given color so they can just swap colors on a whim without burning any out.from my experiences so far
I have never had to add a resistor when swapping lock light LEDs, I suppose I don't use any lock lights very often though either. I know there must be other instances though where I straight swapped green or blue for red with no ill effect. I wonder how many are under driven straight from the factory. In fact, I wonder if that's a common part of the design. Run the LEDs at the lowest voltage they can without severely crippling brightness in any given color so they can just swap colors on a whim without burning any out.from my experiences so far
old green -> modern green -> real bright (i do not remember what keyboard it was one of the LED had died)
old green -> modern red -> blinding bright (on an old Dell ruberdome)
modern green -> modern pink -> a fair bit too bright (Unicomp PC122)
i guess part of the problem is that i use lighting LEDs not indicator LEDs but so far even if none were over driven none were easy to look at either, until i added the resistors, given how dim are the old unicomp green LED i would expect that the new blue ones are driven harder so putting a lower voltage red in their place could be a problem, or maybe not, they may be current limiting and then any LED should be as bright as the next, i have no clue what is going on in their controller.
Molds are quite expensive, so it's a prototype, but they've already cut the mold. Soooooo.... that's prolly it.
That light section is recessed, so they COULD have the mold revised and cut that out, BUTTTTTT there are risks to this as that operation could affect the surface finish in that area, and it could look un-even.
Like says'befou, it prolly gonna be like this.
All the boomers like to hit the spacebar with there index fingers instead of there stronk thumbs. Otherwise nice to see this TKL actually exist and is close to production.I'm 23 lol.
Unicomp sells black unprinted caps but stopped making the pad printed black ones years ago because it is impossible to keep the ink from wearing off over time.
Molds are quite expensive, so it's a prototype, but they've already cut the mold. Soooooo.... that's prolly it.
That light section is recessed, so they COULD have the mold revised and cut that out, BUTTTTTT there are risks to this as that operation could affect the surface finish in that area, and it could look un-even.
Like says'befou, it prolly gonna be like this.
Does this have NKRO and works with PS2 adapter ?
Does this have NKRO and works with PS2 adapter ?
With it being USB and a new board from 2021 I would hope it's more than the original 2KRO, however, I think it still may be 2KRO due to the buckling spring. No need for PS2 adapter: it's USB. Unless you mean USB to a PS2 connector then likely?
Wonder if these LED covers would fit still? https://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/LED
Does this have NKRO and works with PS2 adapter ?
I think shark covered this in his article about it. If I remember right, the matrix was optimized, so it has closer to 6KRO now. It is not NKRO though.
With it being USB and a new board from 2021 I would hope it's more than the original 2KRO, however, I think it still may be 2KRO due to the buckling spring. No need for PS2 adapter: it's USB. Unless you mean USB to a PS2 connector then likely?
Wonder if these LED covers would fit still? https://www.pckeyboard.com/page/product/LED
SNIP
SNIPThank you for the reply and useful information. Have you taken it apart yet?
I see those now. My apologies on making rewrite your article in replies to me. :-X
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
This mini M is not buckling spring?
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
This mini M is not buckling spring?
It is, but it is membrane buckling spring. Not as smooth, heavier weighting, shorter travel before the tactile event and actuation, more difficult to service (if ever necessary). If too many of the plastic rivets holding the membrane buckling spring plate sandwich together ever break, you start losing consistency of switch feel in that area of the board and will have to drill the rivets out and do a bolt mod to fix it.
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
Lovely!
Personally, I like that the color theme differs from the original, but dislike the blue leds. Red leds would match the Esc key, I think.
Anyway, kudos to Unicomp.
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
Used both. Have an F77 (two), and have typed on the Mini M. The Mini M feels like a Model M. The F77 feels like a Model F. The price difference should do the talking for you. The only reason you might want the Mini M over the F77 is if you don't like the high pitched noise of the Model F.
Do you guys think this is better, or new F77?
It is not capacitive buckling spring, and it isn't in a solid zinc case that could be used as tank armor.
I may not have a Mini M, or even any Unicomp Ms, but I think either one of those factors above preclude the Mini M from any comparison at all for me. :p
Used both. Have an F77 (two), and have typed on the Mini M. The Mini M feels like a Model M. The F77 feels like a Model F. The price difference should do the talking for you. The only reason you might want the Mini M over the F77 is if you don't like the high pitched noise of the Model F.
What's the Guts like, does it still have those plastic rivets ?
What's the Guts like, does it still have those plastic rivets ?
There's pictures in the review he posted.Show Image(https://sharktastica.co.uk/resources/images/SNKB/SNKB-M2021SS87/protomini_assembly.jpg)
Looks like the usual to me.
What's the Guts like, does it still have those plastic rivets ?
There's pictures in the review he posted.Show Image(https://sharktastica.co.uk/resources/images/SNKB/SNKB-M2021SS87/protomini_assembly.jpg)
Looks like the usual to me.
Oh good, m0ar bolt mod fun in 30 years.
I imagine most of those boards that need bolt mods were abused. I have a metal badge M that literally looked like it spent a good period of time at the bottom of a dumpster before I cleaned it up, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't quite need a bolt mod yet. It isn't missing all that many rivets. Those plastic rivets were a really stupid idea though regardless, in my opinion.
I imagine most of those boards that need bolt mods were abused. I have a metal badge M that literally looked like it spent a good period of time at the bottom of a dumpster before I cleaned it up, and as far as I can tell, it doesn't quite need a bolt mod yet. It isn't missing all that many rivets. Those plastic rivets were a really stupid idea though regardless, in my opinion.
The rivets were a cost / speed work around.
plastic embrittlement is normal, heat will speed it up, so storage prolly made the biggest difference.
But overall, if there's even slight tension from the metal plate + 30 years, it's near snapping.
if you don't like the high pitched noise of the Model F.
could this be fixed with dental floss mod?
I think the plastic rivets were a step too far for the sake of cost savings.
if you don't like the high pitched noise of the Model F.
could this be fixed with dental floss mod?
Yes, that is precisely what the dental floss mod does. And why it is virtually useless on a Model M.
i kinda also think that the old rivets can break with use
Model M isn't a TANK though. It's just HEAVY because of that steel plate.
The true Tank boards were all special builds for industrial environments, and TBH, I'd worry a bit about the radiation/ toxins in collecting them..
Model M isn't a TANK though. It's just HEAVY because of that steel plate.
The true Tank boards were all special builds for industrial environments, and TBH, I'd worry a bit about the radiation/ toxins in collecting them..
Agreed. I think just about anything relatively rigid made today is more of a tank than a Model M that's still held together by plastic rivets.
Is there any particular reason why you cant use metal rivets?
The tension across the whole barrel has to be equal across the whole back plate.
I kinda want to get one, even though I use my numpad all the time. Someone should talk me out of this. I really should focus on fixing my f107 and F122. (really should just find someone to do the work for me at this point)
I kinda want to get one, even though I use my numpad all the time. Someone should talk me out of this. I really should focus on fixing my f107 and F122. (really should just find someone to do the work for me at this point)
What's wrong with them? I'll take the F107 and you can buy one of these. ;D
I kinda want to get one, even though I use my numpad all the time. Someone should talk me out of this. I really should focus on fixing my f107 and F122. (really should just find someone to do the work for me at this point)
What's wrong with them? I'll take the F107 and you can buy one of these. ;D
nothing is super wrong with it, but it needs a few things.
1. case needs painted again or clear coat removed. (did a crappy job on that)
2. Had some chatter issues iirc with some keys double registering or not at all. maybe related to #3.
3. I don't think i did a great job with the foam replacement and reassembly. Key feel is inconsistant with some areas being quite pingy as they should be and other areas feeling "dull".
with 2 young kids i just haven't found/made enough time to work on it.
They started taking orders on the 14th, and they started shipping yesterday, on the 20th, so the Model M SSK is now no longer a prototype, it is real. Initially, the choices that are available are limited. USB only, and black only. Available in U.S. or International layout, and in all grey keys in addition to grey and white keys at least for the U.S. layout.
When they do the Beige run, hope they get the right Beige,Like any other Model M? Or do you mean those keyboards that need retrobrite because of the type of plastic on certain keyboards? Unfortunately, the Model M does not actually need retrobrite at all. I guess you may want to paint it that yellowish color on the clamshell and keys to get it that uneveness of those competitive models that actually need retrobrite.
Don't want that pale beige,
Want that Rich mustard beige that says HARD WORK
I've checked the Unicomp web site, but I cannot see any indication that it is available in international layouts?
When they do the Beige run, hope they get the right Beige,Like any other Model M? Or do you mean those keyboards that need retrobrite because of the type of plastic on certain keyboards? Unfortunately, the Model M does not actually need retrobrite at all. I guess you may want to paint it that yellowish color on the clamshell and keys to get it that uneveness of those competitive models that actually need retrobrite.
Don't want that pale beige,
Want that Rich mustard beige that says HARD WORK
When they do the Beige run, hope they get the right Beige,Like any other Model M? Or do you mean those keyboards that need retrobrite because of the type of plastic on certain keyboards? Unfortunately, the Model M does not actually need retrobrite at all. I guess you may want to paint it that yellowish color on the clamshell and keys to get it that uneveness of those competitive models that actually need retrobrite.
Don't want that pale beige,
Want that Rich mustard beige that says HARD WORK
I guess you are referring to Apple keyboards? That's an entirely different perspective. Maybe I just misinterpreted what you are going on about. Anyway, if you had a Model M, you would be wondering what you were going on about in the first place.When they do the Beige run, hope they get the right Beige,Like any other Model M? Or do you mean those keyboards that need retrobrite because of the type of plastic on certain keyboards? Unfortunately, the Model M does not actually need retrobrite at all. I guess you may want to paint it that yellowish color on the clamshell and keys to get it that uneveness of those competitive models that actually need retrobrite.
Don't want that pale beige,
Want that Rich mustard beige that says HARD WORK
There's a very distinct difference from the pale beige which approach white (blueish), and the older warmer beige towards yellow.
The classic computer feel is squarely towards Yellow. Whereas leading into the black+silver era, the beige produced began to go towards blueish white.
Has anyone's shipped yet? I am patiently waiting impatiently. :D
They make blank beige right ?Yes.
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cNxh6Qch.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/f4bYS0Zh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UV5bIoph.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cNxh6Qch.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/f4bYS0Zh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UV5bIoph.jpg)
Nice color combination !
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cNxh6Qch.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/f4bYS0Zh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UV5bIoph.jpg)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/cNxh6Qch.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/f4bYS0Zh.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/UV5bIoph.jpg)
What a beauty! This makes me want to get one but I have to remember that Cherry MX BROWNS! are much better for my use and I already got TKLs of those. Sigh...
Also, if UNICOMP did a separate numpad Model M style they could have the ultimate Model M kit with that and the SSK.
had mine a few days now, Anyone else have issues with chattering switches? My H key is acting up.
**Edit** - Tried reseating it a bunch of times, Seems to have helped.
Got mine last week, been holding on to these sets of blanks for 7+ years waiting for this board to come out. :cool: