Order submitted!I wouldn't regret it, I think there's a lot of people who can't type comfortably with that angle(myself included.)
Hopefully I won't regret not getting the aluminum bottom lol (I went for the acrylic bottom)
Is the right one the blue-gray top case? Looks totally different than in the other pic with all 4 colors next to each other...Show Image(http://www.kbd4u.co.kr/web/upload/editor/2015/04/11/3b176966b2890ea801b910c2ae937471.jpg)
Could somebody please tell me what the three dots between esc and f1 and the five above the arrows are for? I can't seem to find that info...
Could somebody please tell me what the three dots between esc and f1 and the five above the arrows are for? I can't seem to find that info...
Does some have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
Could somebody please tell me what the three dots between esc and f1 and the five above the arrows are for? I can't seem to find that info...
Indicator lights.
Could somebody please tell me what the three dots between esc and f1 and the five above the arrows are for? I can't seem to find that info...
The top holes are for the Caps lock, Num lock, and Scroll lock LEDs. The ones above the arrow keys are up to your customization.
Hi Elton, just submit my order for a set + 2 additional bottoms. :thumb:
I wonder if the V2 pcb + plate V2 would fit the V1? And would the alps pcb + plate fit the kingsaver?
And how thick is the flat acrylic bottom?
Thanks!
I assumed the top would fit on any of bottom casings, is this correct though?
So what else do we need to finish the whole keyboard? This is what I had in mind. Please correct me if I missed anything!
Switches (I'm planning on using lubed and stickered ergo clears)
LEDs (for the Indication both next to ESC and above Arrows [what size will fit and will we need diodes/resistors for the LEDs as well?])
Keycaps (my plan TA)
Mini-USB Cable (pexon!)
Soldering Kit
Lots of love!
Out of curiosity, why don't you upload the photos to geekhack?
they are not loading efficiently from the .kr source
So what else do we need to finish the whole keyboard?stabilizers as well, though i have no clue where to source them. perhaps elton can ask Duck if he'd include them alongside the kit (like with the Octagon buy) for an additional fee
So what else do we need to finish the whole keyboard?stabilizers as well, though i have no clue where to source them. perhaps elton can ask Duck if he'd include them alongside the kit (like with the Octagon buy) for an additional fee
Would be great if possible. :thumb:So what else do we need to finish the whole keyboard?stabilizers as well, though i have no clue where to source them. perhaps elton can ask Duck if he'd include them alongside the kit (like with the Octagon buy) for an additional fee
No need diodes or anything. You just need LEDs. SMD LEDs are provided on the bottom of the PCB.
Would be great if possible. :thumb:So what else do we need to finish the whole keyboard?stabilizers as well, though i have no clue where to source them. perhaps elton can ask Duck if he'd include them alongside the kit (like with the Octagon buy) for an additional fee
First Kustom, will be a fun project. I love the design of the top with LED holes (might even leave the 5 blank not sure).
The plate and PCB, do they support only one format for the switches on bottom row? 1.25-1-1.25, or do they also support the 1.25-1.25-1.25 with 6.25 spacebar?
What are the sizes of LED that are compatible with the indicators?
I couldn't help myself, got an order placed. I have to admit, I'm a bit shaky atm.
For those looking for stabilizers, you might want to check Sprit's GB for legit ballin stabs and springs: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55888.0
And congratz all on ordering a pretty baller keyboard.
I couldn't help myself, got an order placed. I have to admit, I'm a bit shaky atm.Yeah, I can feel you! ;)
I couldn't help myself, got an order placed. I have to admit, I'm a bit shaky atm.
For those looking for stabilizers, you might want to check Sprit's GB for legit ballin stabs and springs: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=55888.0
And congratz all on ordering a pretty baller keyboard.
That GB just sells the wires, * Cherry Stabs : All Gold-plated Wires Only : 1set (5pcs) = $12 *
BTW we're already at 30 sets
BTW we're already at 30 sets
BTW we're already at 30 sets
I just got to my computer and saw that this thread was up. I'm sitting over here debating whether I want the acrylic bottom or not even though I have a RS84 coming in. I GUESS IT DOESNT MATTER ANYMORE
Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
Elton, tell me my order made it into the 30?! :'(
Got it, thanks! :-*Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45€ shipping and 30-40€ import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90€.
Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45� shipping and 30-40� import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90�.
Got it, thanks! :-*Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45€ shipping and 30-40€ import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90€.
Order placed! Couldn't wait for this to start! Thanks so much for doing this!
Black winkeyless top with that flat acrylic bottom :thumb:
Although, I may change it to the angled acrylic bottom... Hmmmm! Or the top to silver...the possibilities!
What do you guys think of the top colors? Any favs?
Sorry you cannot order top casing alone even if you have already ordered a whole set.
If you are planning to buy extra bottom and top casing, why not buy another set as you will need another PCB anyway? :D
I'll probably do that, possible to change my order?
Thanks a lot for doing the calculation!Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45� shipping and 30-40� import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90�.
For Germany it will cost the following
Keyboard cost (depending on what you order)
+19% VAT (you might be lucky and it passes through customs without, but you shouldnt count on it)
+Shipping Costs (around 50$)
Thanks a lot for doing the calculation!Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45� shipping and 30-40� import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90�.
For Germany it will cost the following
Keyboard cost (depending on what you order)
+19% VAT (you might be lucky and it passes through customs without, but you shouldnt count on it)
+Shipping Costs (around 50$)
Do you really think there's any way this will slip through customs without paying VAT? I mean the box will be huge and heavy and I don't think Elton will declare its value as €20. Did this happen to you before?
what would you guys say is the best plate for ergo clears? My order has a steel plate atm, but I'm not sure whether aluminum or plastic might be even be better.
Thanks a lot for doing the calculation!Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45� shipping and 30-40� import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90�.
For Germany it will cost the following
Keyboard cost (depending on what you order)
+19% VAT (you might be lucky and it passes through customs without, but you shouldnt count on it)
+Shipping Costs (around 50$)
Do you really think there's any way this will slip through customs without paying VAT? I mean the box will be huge and heavy and I don't think Elton will declare its value as �20. Did this happen to you before?
what would you guys say is the best plate for ergo clears? My order has a steel plate atm, but I'm not sure whether aluminum or plastic might be even be better.Depends on how loud you want your switches.
Now that I think about it: When I got my Quickfire Rapid from Korea, it was declared as €20 and came through without paying extra even though the package was quite sizeable. I also got a $170 shipment from Taobao with no custom fees as well, even though I've told my agent to put the actual value on the package.Thanks a lot for doing the calculation!Does someone have experience maybe from previous Korean group buys on what additional costs can I expect when ordering this to Europe or specifically Germany?
I wasn't sure what I paid for my Viper but I think it was around 45� shipping and 30-40� import costs? To be on the save side you can calculate final cost of the keyboard + 90�.
For Germany it will cost the following
Keyboard cost (depending on what you order)
+19% VAT (you might be lucky and it passes through customs without, but you shouldnt count on it)
+Shipping Costs (around 50$)
Do you really think there's any way this will slip through customs without paying VAT? I mean the box will be huge and heavy and I don't think Elton will declare its value as €20. Did this happen to you before?
Everytime I had to pick something up I had to show the invoice and payment confirmation (even for small baggies with keycaps) so I would not count on that :D
what would you guys say is the best plate for ergo clears? My order has a steel plate atm, but I'm not sure whether aluminum or plastic might be even be better.Depends on how loud you want your switches.
Steel (loudest) - Alu (less but still loud) - Plastic (not loud)
Duck introduced the plastic plate as the "non-click" plate on the Korean forums.
what would you guys say is the best plate for ergo clears? My order has a steel plate atm, but I'm not sure whether aluminum or plastic might be even be better.Depends on how loud you want your switches.
Steel (loudest) - Alu (less but still loud) - Plastic (not loud)
Duck introduced the plastic plate as the "non-click" plate on the Korean forums.
Link to the post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69190.msg1695759#msg1695759)what would you guys say is the best plate for ergo clears? My order has a steel plate atm, but I'm not sure whether aluminum or plastic might be even be better.Depends on how loud you want your switches.
Steel (loudest) - Alu (less but still loud) - Plastic (not loud)
Duck introduced the plastic plate as the "non-click" plate on the Korean forums.
The noise is irrelevant if you use o-rings right? What plate is the most sturdy? I saw on some post on GH recently where a plate which could be bent was showcased, is that the plastic plate available here? Also, some people have said that they feel like mx clears feel better with a pcb mounted board, if that is true, wouldn't the true flagship board feature a plate which is bendable (imitates a pcb mounted only board) but as the case has a plate the keyboard has "sturdiness" as people talk about.
OK, this might be a really silly question. I thought the Orion V2 would come with an ISO option, or was it just a dream? Saw some nice pictures of the ISO plate and/or PCB.
Hey Elton
I just put my order in and really hoping I can get in with the first 30! I don't see any pictures with the flat acrylic bottom and that what I ordered as I'm not sure i like the extreme angle. Anyways this is going to be my first custom and I'm not sure what choose for a plate and if I will need another PCB incase I screw up the first one. Is there anyone who can list me a short explanation of the differences between plates I'm not getting much info online. Also I hope I can change my plate material if I decide on a different type. This is really great and I am very excited! Thank you so much :thumb:
The noise is irrelevant if you use o-rings right? What plate is the most sturdy? I saw on some post on GH recently where a plate which could be bent was showcased, is that the plastic plate available here? Also, some people have said that they feel like mx clears feel better with a pcb mounted board, if that is true, wouldn't the true flagship board feature a plate which is bendable (imitates a pcb mounted only board) but as the case has a plate the keyboard has "sturdiness" as people talk about.
Are RGB SMD leds installed as standard or do you have to install those yourself?
Are RGB SMD leds installed as standard or do you have to install those yourself?
Those are installed. The only thing you need to solder are switches and in switch LEDs.
thanks for clearing that up! So the sound from the switches gets absorbed easiest by plastic, followed by alu and lastly steel; makes total sense from a physical perspective :)Yes the feeling changes but it will be more noticeable to those who have heavier keystrokes (bottoming out). So yeah, as you can probably imagine, the harder plates will feel harder and the softer plates will feel softer. Not sure how much my explanation helps LOL.
what about the feeling? will it change as well? so softest plastic to hardest steel?
Perfect explanation!thanks for clearing that up! So the sound from the switches gets absorbed easiest by plastic, followed by alu and lastly steel; makes total sense from a physical perspective :)Yes the feeling changes but it will be more noticeable to those who have heavier keystrokes (bottoming out). So yeah, as you can probably imagine, the harder plates will feel harder and the softer plates will feel softer. Not sure how much my explanation helps LOL.
what about the feeling? will it change as well? so softest plastic to hardest steel?
I second interest in stabilizers and winkey blockers along with the group buy if it would be possible :thumb:
I second interest in stabilizers and winkey blockers along with the group buy if it would be possible :thumb:
Will we be able to get the aluminum plates colored?
OK, this might be a really silly question. I thought the Orion V2 would come with an ISO option, or was it just a dream? Saw some nice pictures of the ISO plate and/or PCB.
ISO is supported for MX PCB
There won't be any blockers, but I'm not sure if they have enough stabilizers. I will get back to you on this.
Depending on the extra orders, if less than 30, then it will be around a month longer.
Not sure on the LED dimming question..anyone with Octagon want to input on this?
There won't be any blockers, but I'm not sure if they have enough stabilizers. I will get back to you on this.
Depending on the extra orders, if less than 30, then it will be around a month longer.
Not sure on the LED dimming question..anyone with Octagon want to input on this?
Just a quick question, after the first 30 orders are fulfilled. Do we wait for the "second round"? Or do we just put in the order now? :-X
There won't be any blockers, but I'm not sure if they have enough stabilizers. I will get back to you on this.
Depending on the extra orders, if less than 30, then it will be around a month longer.
Not sure on the LED dimming question..anyone with Octagon want to input on this?
Just a quick question, after the first 30 orders are fulfilled. Do we wait for the "second round"? Or do we just put in the order now? :-X
It is just that it will be ready to ship after a month or so after the 1st batch is ready to ship. So you can order now and will be invoiced together.
so the rest of the orders after the 30th will be shipped later? that's how i interpret it :p
Invoicing next week? Wow this goes by pretty fast. Does that mean we will have our keyboards pretty soon? :D
They have already been preproducing for about a month now, so maybe in 2 months they will be ready. :thumb:
They have already been preproducing for about a month now, so maybe in 2 months they will be ready. :thumb:
That's TWO months faster than I expected. :eek: :eek:
so the rest of the orders after the 30th will be shipped later? that's how i interpret it :p
To simply put it, yes. :)
I will start invoicing once I know the weight of each item. Probably on Monday.
What material is the ALPS plate going to be in?
Already filled out the form, but I assume there is only one choice.
What material is the ALPS plate going to be in?
Already filled out the form, but I assume there is only one choice.
Only in stainless steel
What material is the ALPS plate going to be in?
Already filled out the form, but I assume there is only one choice.
Only in stainless steel
Nice! Situation berry najs.
I ordered just the plastic plate since I don't really care about MX on this board. Although I guess it wouldn't change the price I have to pay.
Also, since you live really close is it possible to get you to proxy my order?
I would like to save money wherever possible.
What material is the ALPS plate going to be in?
Already filled out the form, but I assume there is only one choice.
Only in stainless steel
Nice! Situation berry najs.
I ordered just the plastic plate since I don't really care about MX on this board. Although I guess it wouldn't change the price I have to pay.
Also, since you live really close is it possible to get you to proxy my order?
I would like to save money wherever possible.
I have no problem. Are you picking up or do you want me to ship it to London?
It's a 2 hours drive to Toronto..
Is there any way to have it assembled prior to shipping?
Is there any way to have it assembled prior to shipping?
I'll probably just get it shipped here if it saves me money.
I don't have much reason to go to Toronto. I wouldn't count on finding a good opportunity for local pickup.
Is there any way to have it assembled prior to shipping?
I'll probably just get it shipped here if it saves me money.
I don't have much reason to go to Toronto. I wouldn't count on finding a good opportunity for local pickup.
I'm only guesstimating but I checked the shipping cost would be about $14 regular parcel.
What material is the ALPS plate going to be in?
Already filled out the form, but I assume there is only one choice.
Only in stainless steel
Nice! Situation berry najs.
I ordered just the plastic plate since I don't really care about MX on this board. Although I guess it wouldn't change the price I have to pay.
Also, since you live really close is it possible to get you to proxy my order?
I would like to save money wherever possible.
I have no problem. Are you picking up or do you want me to ship it to London?
It's a 2 hours drive to Toronto..
Elton, if I come pick up the KB at your house...would I still have to pay for shipping? :D...
Is there any idea about how much more time would be needed for the extra orders? I'm considering going in on this, just want to be kind of informed about when the +30 orders might ship out.
Order submitted!
Do we need to add any of the case LED's (under the pcb and the dots beside esc and above the arrow keys)? Or are they pre soldered? And if so do we get to choose the colours or are they rgb? The reason i ask is I think the I'd only need switches and stabs from GON, correct?Is there any way to have it assembled prior to shipping?
Sorry, no assembly, but like others have said you could try sending it to GON. Give him a message first.
Do we need to add any of the case LED's (under the pcb and the dots beside esc and above the arrow keys)? Or are they pre soldered?
Do we need to add any of the case LED's (under the pcb and the dots beside esc and above the arrow keys)? Or are they pre soldered? And if so do we get to choose the colours or are they rgb? The reason i ask is I think the I'd only need switches and stabs from GON, correct?
Do we need to add any of the case LED's (under the pcb and the dots beside esc and above the arrow keys)? Or are they pre soldered? And if so do we get to choose the colours or are they rgb? The reason i ask is I think the I'd only need switches and stabs from GON, correct?
Indicator LEDs (top left and above arrow keys) and switch LEDs are needed if you want them. The SMD RGB LEDs are presolder onthe underside of the PCB
I'm going to stop the orders now. It's at 60 sets..it's way more than expected. I'll take more orders if they allow or if there are unpaid orders..I just order it, add me on the list please :confused:
EDIT: Actually it's 59. I'll take one more. :cool:
I'm going to stop the orders now. It's at 60 sets..it's way more than expected. I'll take more orders if they allow or if there are unpaid orders..I just order it, add me on the list please :confused:
EDIT: Actually it's 59. I'll take one more. :cool:
This is insane.
A GB that closed within the day?
This is insane.
A GB that closed within the day?
A testament to the fact that mechanical keyboards are a rapidly growing hobby :)
Doesn't hurt that there's cheaper options too.
>:D i come late, but is still order.. when will be second round coming out
Are you only doing 60? or a few more?
Are you only doing 60? or a few more?
Yea I saw that, but he said he would do another round of 30, just not sure if he has said he was willing to do more or not, haven't read through the last 4 pages yet.Are you only doing 60? or a few more?
Originally he was only planning on doing 30... :eek:
I don't quite get this.
What are the optional add-on for:
ALPs PCB + Plate - $72 USD
MX PCB + Plate - $72 USD
Or rather why is this being called an optional add on?
Don't you need these to complete the board?
Quick question on plates - the plastic, is it thin enough to remove the switch tops while in the plate? Or are all plates same thickness, and require unsoldering to open switch top?
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
How to order? I would like to join a. :thumb:
Wow. I've never seen a group buy close in less than 15 hours. Impressive.
@elton, can you put me on the waiting list for this one?
Also, can I still get the plate + PCB option?
How to order? I would like to join a. :thumb:
I'm in the same boat I just got some Gatorade blacks,some krytox and have some sprit gold springs coming in 62,65 and 68g variants so I can try different resistances to see which ones i like the most. I have heard the gat blacks are about as smooth as vintage blacks stock so lubed I hope they will be like butter. I'm having fun getting everything I need together soldering station, goose neck magnifying lamp,switches,springs and stabs (which I still need to source). I also need to find a couple (cheap) old boards to swap switches and practice my soldering. It would be easier to buy pre lubed,spring swapped and STICKERED switches but they are expensive and I wouldn't learn that way. Just looking at the PCB with all the leads is a little daunting but I'm pretty determined :) anyways thanks again Elton I'm very excited to start my first custom board !What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
Gaterons blacks, trying out springs when the switches and springs arrive. Going on a plastic plate cuz pings and whatnot.
My only concern with the plastic plate is wether there will be light leaking through from the back of the board in random places.
Hmmm, snickered switches sounds delicious! :pLol...I thought so myself :))
I'm in the same boat I just got some Gatorade blacks,some krytox and have some sprit gold springs coming in 62,65 and 68g variants so I can try different resistances to see which ones i like the most. I have heard the gat blacks are about as smooth as vintage blacks stock so lubed I hope they will be like butter. I'm having fun getting everything I need together soldering station, goose neck magnifying lamp,switches,springs and stabs (which I still need to source). I also need to find a couple (cheap) old boards to swap switches and practice my soldering. It would be easier to buy pre lubed,spring swapped and snickered switches but they are expensive and I wouldn't learn that way. Just looking at the PCB with all the leads is a little daunting but I'm pretty determined :) anyways thanks again Elton I'm very excited to start my first custom board !What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
Gaterons blacks, trying out springs when the switches and springs arrive. Going on a plastic plate cuz pings and whatnot.
My only concern with the plastic plate is wether there will be light leaking through from the back of the board in random places.
Hmmm, snickered switches sounds delicious! :p
:))Hmmm, snickered switches sounds delicious! :p
Tactile nuts?
I'm in the same boat I just got some Gatorade blacks,some krytox and have some sprit gold springs coming in 62,65 and 68g variants so I can try different resistances to see which ones i like the most. I have heard the gat blacks are about as smooth as vintage blacks stock so lubed I hope they will be like butter. I'm having fun getting everything I need together soldering station, goose neck magnifying lamp,switches,springs and stabs (which I still need to source). I also need to find a couple (cheap) old boards to swap switches and practice my soldering. It would be easier to buy pre lubed,spring swapped and snickered switches but they are expensive and I wouldn't learn that way. Just looking at the PCB with all the leads is a little daunting but I'm pretty determined :) anyways thanks again Elton I'm very excited to start my first custom board !What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
Gaterons blacks, trying out springs when the switches and springs arrive. Going on a plastic plate cuz pings and whatnot.
My only concern with the plastic plate is wether there will be light leaking through from the back of the board in random places.
Cool, I also ordered Krytox lube and gold 62g, 65g, 68g and 72g springs, also trying out weights. Will probably be able to sell the unused springs relatively easily later. I think the hunt for parts and putting it all together is part of the fun, so although my experience with soldering is sub-par, I look forward to it :D
What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
Why did you ultimately decide for steel?What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
I will most likely go with MX clears. Ordered steel plate but considered both plastic and alu.
This will also be my first custom board. As a matter of fact the GB was so quick I haven't even ordered switches and stabilizers. Any good tips on where to buy MX clear switches and stabilizers?I'd get my switches from 7bit (http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html). LEDs from ebay (http://stores.ebay.com/IC-Touch-Store/2x3x4-Rectangle-LEDs-/_i.html?_fsub=4091520013&_sid=1028435323&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322).
Will any of guys install switch LEDs? I will, but have no clue where to get em as am very new to the mechanical keyboard scene. So any tips and/or suggestions on where to get switches, stabilizers and in-switch LEDs would be greatly appreciated.
Why did you ultimately decide for steel?What type of switches (tactile, linear, etc.) will you be putting in the board? I'm trying to get an idea of switch/plate combinations you went for.
I'll be using Clears with the plastic plate.
I will most likely go with MX clears. Ordered steel plate but considered both plastic and alu.This will also be my first custom board. As a matter of fact the GB was so quick I haven't even ordered switches and stabilizers. Any good tips on where to buy MX clear switches and stabilizers?I'd get my switches from 7bit (http://deskthority.net/group-buys-f50/cherry-mx-taking-pre-orders-t2760.html). LEDs from ebay (http://stores.ebay.com/IC-Touch-Store/2x3x4-Rectangle-LEDs-/_i.html?_fsub=4091520013&_sid=1028435323&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322).
Will any of guys install switch LEDs? I will, but have no clue where to get em as am very new to the mechanical keyboard scene. So any tips and/or suggestions on where to get switches, stabilizers and in-switch LEDs would be greatly appreciated.
Is there somebody has repeat orders?
I see. Otherwise, when we need to pay it?Is there somebody has repeat orders?
Just multiple orders per person. No worry, you are still in
winkey vs. winkeyless: | 34:28 |
blue grey vs. silver vs. black vs. red top: | 22:21:17:2 |
steel vs. aluminium vs. plastic plate (addons): | 23(0):22(2):17(3) |
aluminium vs. angled acrylic vs. flat acrylic bottom (addons): | 32(4):20(14):10(5) |
avg. money spent (overall): | $358 ($21953) |
Surprised there aren't more flat acrylic bottoms as addons considering they are so darn cheap :pI went for the flat acrylic bottom but for some reason thought it was a frosted bottom not clear. I might change my order for the angled acrylic as that appears to be frosted (I'm really on the fence as to wether I really like the clear bottom with exposed PCB or I hate it). Also I went with the plastic plate because I think in lastpilots GON Crystal TKL build video he uses a plastic plate (someone correct me if I'm wrong) and the sound of the board in his subsequent typing video was amazing!!! I really loved it and seeing and reading the process he documented really inspired me to want to build my own. Seriously that board sounds amazing being typed on and I love the very muffled pitter patter of the keys on that thing they sounded sublime!
I was browsing through some of the links in the OP and noticed this specific full alu bottom doesn't have 3M feet, as opposed to the 22$ plate. Will those pads be included, or should I find some on my own?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hg37Mmr.png)
By the way, will the MX plate be white too?
Surprised there aren't more flat acrylic bottoms as addons considering they are so darn cheap :pI went for the flat acrylic bottom but for some reason thought it was a frosted bottom not clear. I might change my order for the angled acrylic as that appears to be frosted (I'm really on the fence as to wether I really like the clear bottom with exposed PCB or I hate it). Also I went with the plastic plate because I think in lastpilots GON Crystal TKL build video he uses a plastic plate (someone correct me if I'm wrong) and the sound of the board in his subsequent typing video was amazing!!! I really loved it and seeing and reading the process he documented really inspired me to want to build my own. Seriously that board sounds amazing being typed on and I love the very muffled pitter patter of the keys on that thing they sounded sublime!
bottom plates work on V1?
I was browsing through some of the links in the OP and noticed this specific full alu bottom doesn't have 3M feet, as opposed to the 22$ plate. Will those pads be included, or should I find some on my own?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hg37Mmr.png)
By the way, will the MX plate be white too?
I'm sort of torn between winkey or winkeyless lol. My gut said winkeyless as it just looks so good with those built-in blockers in the aluminum top... :cool:
Any reason you guys went with WK or WKL? Looks? The 2 extra (or less) keys?
I'm sort of torn between winkey or winkeyless lol. My gut said winkeyless as it just looks so good with those built-in blockers in the aluminum top... :cool:
Any reason you guys went with WK or WKL? Looks? The 2 extra (or less) keys?
It's all about those looks though. And i don't have a winkeyless board yet. The question I keep struggling with is what plate material I should go with? Elton has already changed it once for me. Any advice from seasoned vets?
I'm sort of torn between winkey or winkeyless lol. My gut said winkeyless as it just looks so good with those built-in blockers in the aluminum top... :cool:
Any reason you guys went with WK or WKL? Looks? The 2 extra (or less) keys?
It's all about those looks though. And i don't have a winkeyless board yet. The question I keep struggling with is what plate material I should go with? Elton has already changed it once for me. Any advice from seasoned vets?
Lastpilot has gave us a pretty good explanation on the different types of plates and how it feels some pages back. It depends on what switches you use too I suppose
I'm sort of torn between winkey or winkeyless lol. My gut said winkeyless as it just looks so good with those built-in blockers in the aluminum top... :cool:I'm not 100% sure about this either.
Any reason you guys went with WK or WKL? Looks? The 2 extra (or less) keys?
Surprised there aren't more flat acrylic bottoms as addons considering they are so darn cheap :pI went for the flat acrylic bottom but for some reason thought it was a frosted bottom not clear. I might change my order for the angled acrylic as that appears to be frosted (I'm really on the fence as to wether I really like the clear bottom with exposed PCB or I hate it). Also I went with the plastic plate because I think in lastpilots GON Crystal TKL build video he uses a plastic plate (someone correct me if I'm wrong) and the sound of the board in his subsequent typing video was amazing!!! I really loved it and seeing and reading the process he documented really inspired me to want to build my own. Seriously that board sounds amazing being typed on and I love the very muffled pitter patter of the keys on that thing they sounded sublime!
I would choose the frosted angled acrylic. Why? Cause it looks MUCH cooler especially with that uniform glow underneath the PCB. You won't get a 2nd chance in changing once you receive it and will live to regret your decision if you hate it. :Pbottom plates work on V1?
Let me confirm but most likely it is able toI was browsing through some of the links in the OP and noticed this specific full alu bottom doesn't have 3M feet, as opposed to the 22$ plate. Will those pads be included, or should I find some on my own?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hg37Mmr.png)
By the way, will the MX plate be white too?
They will all come with 3M feet. The metal plates will be silver and plastic will be frosted like in the pictures.
I'm sort of torn between winkey or winkeyless lol. My gut said winkeyless as it just looks so good with those built-in blockers in the aluminum top... :cool:I'm not 100% sure about this either.
Any reason you guys went with WK or WKL? Looks? The 2 extra (or less) keys?
My thoughts were this: What modifiers do I want/need?
I definitely need Ctrl for shortcuts, as well as Windows/Super (for window management, etc.). I also want to have Escape near the modifier area since I'm a vim user and that definitely makes things easier. CapsLock I can totally ditch. So, that leaves me with the following option: put Escape on CapsLock, Ctrl on Ctrl and Windows/Super on Alt. In this case, I'm missing an Alt key and even though I use it seldomly at the moment, maybe I take a go emacs at some point and having an Alt key with that helps. That's why I'm currently on winkey.
If you are not dependent on Escape, you can put Ctrl on CapsLock, Windows on Ctrl and Alt on Alt.
I'm interested in what configurations other Linux-desktop users went for.
Even though I'm not in this GB I would be interested in picking up another plate + PCB to be able to easily swap around my V1 board.bottom plates work on V1?Let me confirm but most likely it is able to
The geekkey is worth it in my opinion. I'm not a fan of winkey but the case alone makes it worth it. Had I not put a order in for another GB I would consider it my self.
WTF?!GG
Seriously?!
closed already?!
The one weekend i go out of town and I miss the one tkl i want...
ffs..
:'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35)Are you sure I should trust seller "randomcomputerbiz"? :))
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35)Are you sure I should trust seller "randomcomputerbiz"? :))
Was just mocking about the name.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35)Are you sure I should trust seller "randomcomputerbiz"? :))
Who knows. Feedback numbers aren't too good, but he is selling something that's hard to find. It's up to you.
Was just mocking about the name.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Silicon-Graphics-SGI-Clicky-Keyboard-9500900-Alps-Granite-/251918220597?hash=item3aa77efd35)Are you sure I should trust seller "randomcomputerbiz"? :))
Who knows. Feedback numbers aren't too good, but he is selling something that's hard to find. It's up to you.
Shame. Didn't check GB's all weekend, and find out it's already sold out. Real shame here.
Adding the weights right now. After that I will start invoicing.
Paid!
PAID! how long do us 2nd-batchers have to wait? (not that Im complaining, there are obviously lots of people that didn't get in at all) just wondering.
i'm currently flying around the globe for work, but I think i'll be able to pay by sunday! Hope thats ok!
KG | Top 0.369 | Bottom Al 1.63 | Angle Bottom 0.605 | Flat Bottom 0.214 | PCB 0.142 | SS PLate 0.2 | Alum Plate 0.081 | Plastic Plate 0.042 | Accessories 0.014 | Box weight 0.69 |
when do you think shipping will begin?
Even though I'm not in this GB I would be interested in picking up another plate + PCB to be able to easily swap around my V1 board.bottom plates work on V1?Let me confirm but most likely it is able to
i'm currently flying around the globe for work, but I think i'll be able to pay by sunday! Hope thats ok!
That's fine. Payment deadline will be on May 1st.
If anyone is interested here is the weight list..
KGTop
0.369Bottom Al
1.63Angle Bottom
0.605Flat Bottom
0.214PCB
0.142SS PLate
0.2Alum Plate
0.081Plastic Plate
0.042Accessories
0.014Box weight
0.69
In the mail I've received it says "Date payment is due 14 Apr 2015", or is it the 1st of May?
I realized I forgot about the stabilizers after I finished invoicing...:facepalm:
I realized I forgot about the stabilizers after I finished invoicing...:facepalm:
PAID! how long do us 2nd-batchers have to wait? (not that Im complaining, there are obviously lots of people that didn't get in at all) just wondering.
A month or so.
Wow dam, group buy finishing in less than 4 days...stupid tax season..
Yeah, < 15 hours :eek:Wow dam, group buy finishing in less than 4 days...stupid tax season..
Was less than a day to 60 orders if I recall correctly! :eek:
I'll wait for the update on how stabilizers are going - also tempted to add on an Alps pcb/plate. Only 5 people ordered it?! Matias says they should be coming out with keycap options soon so I might go ahead and invest in the PCB now. ^-^I second that . Also Lastpilot I have a question for you I'm PM'ing now.
I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).
Thanks in advance.
Yep. You can also get them for $6 on aliexpress but shipping can take up to a monthThis keyboard won't arrive before a month either.
I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).I'd get them from Aliexpress as well:
Thanks in advance.
Yep. You can also get them for $6 on aliexpress but shipping can take up to a monthThis keyboard won't arrive before a month either.I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).I'd get them from Aliexpress as well:
Thanks in advance.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rectangular-square-led/629743_251765645.html
I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).
Thanks in advance.
You can't go wrong with 2x3x4 LEDs afaik. I bought a bunch of them @ zeal for my sprit build :)
Yep. You can also get them for $6 on aliexpress but shipping can take up to a monthThis keyboard won't arrive before a month either.I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).I'd get them from Aliexpress as well:
Thanks in advance.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rectangular-square-led/629743_251765645.htmlI am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).
Thanks in advance.
You can't go wrong with 2x3x4 LEDs afaik. I bought a bunch of them @ zeal for my sprit build :)
Thnx a bunch for the suggestions. Probably go with Zeal in the end as I will buy some SIP sockets and other switch accessories from them. So I will not be able dodge any shipping costs anyway.
If you buy the SIP sockets from zeal, don't forget to order them x2 (because he sells them per 130, not enough to cover every switch.
If you want to try:Yep. You can also get them for $6 on aliexpress but shipping can take up to a monthThis keyboard won't arrive before a month either.I am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).I'd get them from Aliexpress as well:
Thanks in advance.
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Rectangular-square-led/629743_251765645.htmlI am gradually planning my build of the Orion V2 and it is my first custom build. So I humbly ask the pros here, what type of LEDs does the pre-soldered diodes work with? I am currently looking at buying the LEDs from Zeal (http://zealpc.net/collections/accessories/products/leds).
Thanks in advance.
You can't go wrong with 2x3x4 LEDs afaik. I bought a bunch of them @ zeal for my sprit build :)
Thnx a bunch for the suggestions. Probably go with Zeal in the end as I will buy some SIP sockets and other switch accessories from them. So I will not be able dodge any shipping costs anyway.
The thing about sockets from Zeal is that they are already clipped of their plastic housings which is a ***** to do yourself.From the pictures, I'd say they're removed as well. The poorly google-translated description doesn't say anything specific though.
The thing about sockets from Zeal is that they are already clipped of their plastic housings which is a ***** to do yourself.
Has anyone thought about blocking the two hole in the bottom case so that light only shines through the acrylic insert?
The thing about sockets from Zeal is that they are already clipped of their plastic housings which is a ***** to do yourself.
That doesnt seem to be that bad: just use a clipper, see https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.msg1179087#msg1179087
I've paid $10 last time, for 130. This time I've ordered them from ebay, 400x @ ~6$. I might have to clip them myself, but I don't mind.
How well do the LEDs stay in the SIP sockets? Have any of you run into an issue where they fall out?
Even though I'm not in this GB I would be interested in picking up another plate + PCB to be able to easily swap around my V1 board.bottom plates work on V1?Let me confirm but most likely it is able to
V2 bottoms will fit V1 tops.
How well do the LEDs stay in the SIP sockets? Have any of you run into an issue where they fall out?You could turn it upside down and shake it and they shouldn't fall out. If you want more security use 2x3x4 led's since those friction fit into the top housing. Kind of makes it a ***** to remove or swap though lol.
How well do the LEDs stay in the SIP sockets? Have any of you run into an issue where they fall out?
As long as you don't trim down the legs of the LED too much they will stay in without a problem
ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE! Almost forgot. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you insert the clipped LEDs (cut with flush cutters noting polarity a hair under the two bumps on the legs) INTO THE SIP SOCKET BEFORE SOLDERING. This keeps the pins straight when you solder SIP sockets onto the PCB. If you don't you'll have a hell of a time desoldering. Some people insert a new uncut LED into the SIP to align. I find it silly that you're doing two steps when you can already have the LED installed into the switch! Make sure the 2x3x4mm LEDs are sitting flat inside the indent of the Chery switch. If it's not sitting flat, then it's not all the way in.
Cut on red line
ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE! Almost forgot. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you insert the clipped LEDs (cut with flush cutters noting polarity a hair under the two bumps on the legs) INTO THE SIP SOCKET BEFORE SOLDERING. This keeps the pins straight when you solder SIP sockets onto the PCB. If you don't you'll have a hell of a time desoldering. Some people insert a new uncut LED into the SIP to align. I find it silly that you're doing two steps when you can already have the LED installed into the switch! Make sure the 2x3x4mm LEDs are sitting flat inside the indent of the Chery switch. If it's not sitting flat, then it's not all the way in.Good tip from Zeal, though I would use a piece of wire instead of the LED just to be sure not to damage it by overheating.
Cut on red line
This is what I figured out and did during my build and all 87 led's are fine, even if they weren't they're pretty cheap anyways and you'll always definitely have enough since they're mostly sold in 100's so you'll either have 13 or 90 extra led's to use.Quote from: ZealANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE! Almost forgot. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND you insert the clipped LEDs (cut with flush cutters noting polarity a hair under the two bumps on the legs) INTO THE SIP SOCKET BEFORE SOLDERING. This keeps the pins straight when you solder SIP sockets onto the PCB. If you don't you'll have a hell of a time desoldering. Some people insert a new uncut LED into the SIP to align. I find it silly that you're doing two steps when you can already have the LED installed into the switch! Make sure the 2x3x4mm LEDs are sitting flat inside the indent of the Chery switch. If it's not sitting flat, then it's not all the way in.Good tip from Zeal, though I would use a piece of wire instead of the LED just to be sure not to damage it by overheating.
Cut on red line
Does anyone know a vendor that sells cherry mx Clears (stems or switches) that is actually in stock - or any ETA on MK.com or Zeal?
Wow. Maybe I'll look to order a keyboard with clears and salvage some.. I was thinking to do linears on modifiers anyways. The pok3r just came out, looks interesting for an alternate board.Does anyone know a vendor that sells cherry mx Clears (stems or switches) that is actually in stock - or any ETA on MK.com or Zeal?
MK.com says (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=31221.msg1716624#msg1716624) 12 months (Cherry lead times are crazy). I recently got a pack of Clears from sprit.
Really good tips/suggestions here for the novice. Thank you for that! :thumb:
Plate mounted MX clears seem to be out of stock in most places. PCB mounted MX clears seem to be available at some places, i.e. winkeyless.kr and www.gonskeyboardworks.com
This brings up another question. Looking at the 3D render of the PCB it seems to be prepped for PCB mounted switches. Can anyone confirm? Is there a reason to opt for the plate mounted switches instead of PCB mounted? A PCB mounted switch should work with a plate as long as the PCB has holes for the stems right?
I have a newbie question here - regarding the controller programming. Is there a custom software to use for this board? I know GON has a gui, and I've seen others, just wondering what will be compatible with the V2.
I have a newbie question here - regarding the controller programming. Is there a custom software to use for this board? I know GON has a gui, and I've seen others, just wondering what will be compatible with the V2.
I assume the Orion V2 will be added to the O2D KeyMapper, take a look at http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program
I have a newbie question here - regarding the controller programming. Is there a custom software to use for this board? I know GON has a gui, and I've seen others, just wondering what will be compatible with the V2.
I assume the Orion V2 will be added to the O2D KeyMapper, take a look at http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program
I do know that Orion (at least V1) is supported by Easy AVR programmer here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
I wonder if that support will extend to V2? Does anyone know if the controller is the same, etc.?
I have a newbie question here - regarding the controller programming. Is there a custom software to use for this board? I know GON has a gui, and I've seen others, just wondering what will be compatible with the V2.
I assume the Orion V2 will be added to the O2D KeyMapper, take a look at http://duck0113.tistory.com/category/%E2%98%85Firmware%20Program
I do know that Orion (at least V1) is supported by Easy AVR programmer here:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51252.0
I wonder if that support will extend to V2? Does anyone know if the controller is the same, etc.?
It is the same controller on the V2
What were the exact weights of each item again?
KGTop
0.369Bottom Al
1.63Angle Bottom
0.605Flat Bottom
0.214PCB
0.142SS PLate
0.2Alum Plate
0.081Plastic Plate
0.042Accessories
0.014Box weight
0.69
What were the exact weights of each item again?
KGTop
0.369Bottom Al
1.63Angle Bottom
0.605Flat Bottom
0.214PCB
0.142SS PLate
0.2Alum Plate
0.081Plastic Plate
0.042Accessories
0.014Box weight
0.69
Cool stuff.
anyone know where to get any cherry mx clear switches?I recently ordered some from sprit. Maybe, he has some left.
everywhere seems to be out of stock
also any place to get sticker switches
anyone know where to get any cherry mx clear switches?
everywhere seems to be out of stock
also any place to get sticker switches
ELTON
The next group of group purchase will be when? I'm sorry this purchase does not catch up with, if there is a new message, please tell me, thank you!
In need of Alps PCB and plate if anyone is here for the case only. PM me please.
In need of Alps PCB and plate if anyone is here for the case only. PM me please.
Since the ALPS stuff was completely optional I highly doubt that people have extras.
No idea if Elton will allow order changes but that might be the only option.
Hi Elton, I have finally payed the invoice. Sorry for the delay. The paypal shipping address is however not the right one. Will you use the one from the webform?
In need of Alps PCB and plate if anyone is here for the case only. PM me please.
Since the ALPS stuff was completely optional I highly doubt that people have extras.
No idea if Elton will allow order changes but that might be the only option.
I'm hoping someone can modify their order and let me piggy back. I'll pay for shipping of course.
Will there be a second round of these?i hope so or a viper v2
Does anyone know a timeline of when the first round will ship? Been checking the thread often (maybe I missed something?)
I've been curious how the extra LEDs are mounted in the case. Are they mounted directly on the PCB with spacers or is there a mounting device on the case itself?
Ooh. I was hoping for white, but green is definitely better than red. Actually the green will probably look nice under the plastic plate
Does this mean we WILL get a green PCB? All the pictures we have seen so far had a red PCB and I assumed that we will get that.
I've been curious how the extra LEDs are mounted in the case. Are they mounted directly on the PCB with spacers or is there a mounting device on the case itself?
Where do you guys get your 1.8mm LEDs? If eBay, which seller?Try this vendor (on eBay) : colorfulplace888 (http://stores.ebay.com/colorfulplace888)
On my Octagon I was able to buy a few on Amazon but the seller ran out of stock at the moment.
Where do you guys get your 1.8mm LEDs? If eBay, which seller?Try this vendor (on eBay) : colorfulplace888 (http://m.ebay.com/seller?sid=colorfulplace888)
On my Octagon I was able to buy a few on Amazon but the seller ran out of stock at the moment.
You should look for the "New 1.8mm __color__ Water Clear [...]" LEDs ;)
What size spacebar stabilizer does this use?
I wonder if normal 2x3x4 LEDs fit in there. Sky blue dots above arrow keys would be neat, indeed!
4 unpaid.. do i get chance to go in> ? wan to know the resultProbably not. The order form is still open and I guess elton will just pick the next person from the list.
Will it be possible to send the package as gift, with an indicated value under 100$?
Will it be possible to send the package as gift, with an indicated value under 100$?
Yeah, it will be. I have never paid any customs before receiving these from SK.
Only Crabby_B, reaxas, and DelKey left...
There will be a lot of foam materials..
Well, there are 2 spots..who wants to be next? ;)
wait what!!! there are spots open for this buy? :eek:i want it !!! and i think i am 60!
wait what!!! there are spots open for this buy? :eek:i want it !!! and i think i am 60!
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
Yeah, I received it. They are only doing 60 sets for GH. TC has group buys in China and SK as well so they have massive orders.
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
Yeah, I received it. They are only doing 60 sets for GH. TC has group buys in China and SK as well so they have massive orders.
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(
I'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
Yeah, I received it. They are only doing 60 sets for GH. TC has group buys in China and SK as well so they have massive orders.
I'm having a hard time deciding which type of switch I'll order, but that made me think: why doesn't the plate supports switchtop removal in the first place? Imo, that would only be reasonable for such a premium keyboard.
I'm having a hard time deciding which type of switch I'll order, but that made me think: why doesn't the plate supports switchtop removal in the first place? Imo, that would only be reasonable for such a premium keyboard.
No MX Clears so far, sadly :'(I'm having a hard time deciding which type of switch I'll order, but that made me think: why doesn't the plate supports switchtop removal in the first place? Imo, that would only be reasonable for such a premium keyboard.
Easy, Gateron switches of your favorite variety. :thumb:
what a pity,hope jaemzp does not payI'm just kidding. I'm just going to PM the next in line if they still want it. Sorry :(Lol that's cold Elton. I sent you a pm though not sure if you got it or not. Oh well.
Yeah, I received it. They are only doing 60 sets for GH. TC has group buys in China and SK as well so they have massive orders.
Ahh okay. Thanks anyways :thumb:
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DoO9Egu.jpg)
On the red winkeyless board showcased: why is the space between ctrl alt gray? Is it not a part of the case? Is it just the plate? If it isn't a part of the case then why do you need to choose winkey or winkeyless case? If it is a part of the case why not have it red also?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/DoO9Egu.jpg)
On the red winkeyless board showcased: why is the space between ctrl alt gray? Is it not a part of the case? Is it just the plate? If it isn't a part of the case then why do you need to choose winkey or winkeyless case? If it is a part of the case why not have it red also?
I'm pretty sure its because that is the winkey case + ALPs plate - not a likely combo in my opinion. If someone goes ALPs they would most likely get the winkeyless case and then that recess wouldn't be there. It would have the red case metal extend over where the winkey would be.Is this because most ALPS keysets are WKL?
On the red winkeyless board showcased: why is the space between ctrl alt gray? Is it not a part of the case? Is it just the plate? If it isn't a part of the case then why do you need to choose winkey or winkeyless case? If it is a part of the case why not have it red also?
Wish there was an option for this...Hmm, that would be awesome! Can you link to the thread?Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/117/711/002/a474ca7540c3fef1da67be107b59c662.jpg)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/117/711/002/49fadb496e5d38e50c0d50e04a2ab87c.jpg)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/117/711/002/e065d078e3c5405c24d0482b8d60bdf1.jpg)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/117/711/002/76696874841d27ef307604ca361b7a61.jpg)
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2711117&mid=board_Lsno50We should form a mob and persuade Duck, but I guess it's too late at this point and would increase the cost of the Aluminium bottom (though I wouldn't have a problem with that)... :rolleyes: :'(
I think it is just an one off made by another member.
You're well prepared sir!Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/Photo%2012-05-15%2023%2043%2001.jpg)
Got switches, got LEDs, got stabs...
Come to papa.
where did you get clearsShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/Photo%2012-05-15%2023%2043%2001.jpg)
Got switches, got LEDs, got stabs...
Come to papa.
where did you get clearsShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/Photo%2012-05-15%2023%2043%2001.jpg)
Got switches, got LEDs, got stabs...
Come to papa.
I'd say end of this week
Nice.
I'm really looking forward to the Orion v2, but I've been hesitant on wether I made the right choice on colour ever since ordering.
When's the last date to change colours, Elton?
I'd say end of this week
Nice.
I'm really looking forward to the Orion v2, but I've been hesitant on wether I made the right choice on colour ever since ordering.
When's the last date to change colours, Elton?
Yes
Elton,
Am I still on the list?
I forgot if I am.
Here's a video on the indicator LEDs
Here's a video on the indicator LEDs
Nice!
Question: How much control do we have over the indicator LEDs and the LED cluster above the arrows?
I'd prefer to have the indicator LEDs on when caps etc is off - reversed compared to standard, and have the LED cluster on at all times. But I understand it may not be a priority.
Oh yes black top housing looking so good. Can any owner of the Octagon tell me if you can set the RGB LEDs on the back to a single custom color instead of rotating through many colors?
Oh yes black top housing looking so good. Can any owner of the Octagon tell me if you can set the RGB LEDs on the back to a single custom color instead of rotating through many colors?
This is what I've been trying to figure out with 02D Keymapper with Octagon and will probably be figuring out on this upcoming Orion V2 :D
Guys what switches should I use on my orion
I recently bought a eagle with 62g clears and they're great. However while rebuilding the keyboard I tested some gateron blacks and they are soooo smooth. Would it be a sin if I used gaterons on this keyboard?
Guys what switches should I use on my orion
I recently bought a eagle with 62g clears and they're great. However while rebuilding the keyboard I tested some gateron blacks and they are soooo smooth. Would it be a sin if I used gaterons on this keyboard?
Guys what switches should I use on my orion
I recently bought a eagle with 62g clears and they're great. However while rebuilding the keyboard I tested some gateron blacks and they are soooo smooth. Would it be a sin if I used gaterons on this keyboard?
I think quite a few will get made with Gateron Blacks.
I got a steel plate.Guys what switches should I use on my orion
I recently bought a eagle with 62g clears and they're great. However while rebuilding the keyboard I tested some gateron blacks and they are soooo smooth. Would it be a sin if I used gaterons on this keyboard?
Gaterons will probably be just as popular as Cherry switches, at least on GH.
I'm under the impression that Duck keyboards are quite sturdy, unless you go for the plastic plate. You might want to keep that in mind, but really I wouldn't be able to say what to go for, that's your own opinion.
I've got some Gateron blacks, lube, stickers and springs ready for assembly :>
I got a steel plate.
I've been using topre for a while now, using clears doesn't seem too comfortable anymore. The tactile bump is a little awkward for me now.
I think I'm going with Gateron black, they're just ultra smooth.What springs are you putting into those blacks? I have 62g springs from sprit. I was going to use them in some clear switches but I am unsure now.
Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/a9595c926b75fd79b0b0d4a214a14674.JPG)
Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
I hope so as well. Duck says black and silver is his favourite combination.Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
I need more pictures of grey blue I hope I made the right decision
I hope so as well. Duck says black and silver is his favourite combination.Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
I need more pictures of grey blue I hope I made the right decision
Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
black :pEnjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
Is the case shown grey-blue or black ?
Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
No, unfortunately not. :(Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
wait, does this mean that you've already received yours?
can't wait until my batch ships. I'm gonna do some nasty **** with this baby.
No, unfortunately not. :(Enjoy: :thumb:Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8e982239f81b5edc4dd1fa422da8e147.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/8ee7e09f613f5fe0472282fa8eca19df.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/085/690/002/3e0e940a4c8333baa0afc3b1ac37bf69.JPG)
wait, does this mean that you've already received yours?
can't wait until my batch ships. I'm gonna do some nasty **** with this baby.
These are pictures Duck posted to kbdlab. I thought I'd share them here to keep us entertained until the board ships.
i thought i went crazy for a second there haha
Elton just pmed me for address. Does it mean that the keyboards are shipping soon?
What will be the dimensions of the case? :rolleyes: I'm asking, because I'm looking to get a matching wrist rest.Weren't they the same dimensions as the V1?
any ETA ?I think a month ago Elton said two months, so another month to go.
New pictures: http://duck0113.tistory.com/123Show Image(http://cfile22.uf.tistory.com/image/22790C49556AEF1D2AB98C)Show Image(http://cfile24.uf.tistory.com/image/2132754B556AEF2301A3BB)Show Image(http://cfile30.uf.tistory.com/image/277C2E4B556AEF2C264100)
any ETA ?I think a month ago Elton said two months, so another month to go.
any ETA ?I think a month ago Elton said two months, so another month to go.
did I read somewhere that that's for the first 30 or so, then the second batch would be produced? I'm no. 47 ;_;
exactly what came to my mindNew pictures: http://duck0113.tistory.com/123Show Image(http://cfile22.uf.tistory.com/image/22790C49556AEF1D2AB98C)Show Image(http://cfile24.uf.tistory.com/image/2132754B556AEF2301A3BB)Show Image(http://cfile30.uf.tistory.com/image/277C2E4B556AEF2C264100)
Looking good. Wish the pictures were higher resolution though. I thought South Korea had superspeeds in the internets, so what's the point in making the pictures so small?
Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
That's for the first batch, correct? Any ETA on the second batch?Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
As far as I know, it has always been the first week(s) of July.
That's for the first batch, correct? Any ETA on the second batch?Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
As far as I know, it has always been the first week(s) of July.
Can you link to the thread with status updates, or does Duck contact you directly?That's for the first batch, correct? Any ETA on the second batch?Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
As far as I know, it has always been the first week(s) of July.
The production is delayed a bit due to their CNC machines having a bit of a problem..I'll update when I get more info.
Can you link to the thread with status updates, or does Duck contact you directly?That's for the first batch, correct? Any ETA on the second batch?Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
As far as I know, it has always been the first week(s) of July.
The production is delayed a bit due to their CNC machines having a bit of a problem..I'll update when I get more info.
I have to let my order go :'(
If anyone is interested, PM me.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8ZDvGL5.jpg)
Ain't no group buy without a delay... :rolleyes:
Ain't no group buy without a delay... :rolleyes:
Ain't no group buy without a delay... :rolleyes:
Amen, brother.
That's for the first batch, correct? Any ETA on the second batch?Are we still looking at an "end of June" delivery date?
As far as I know, it has always been the first week(s) of July.
The production is delayed a bit due to their CNC machines having a bit of a problem..I'll update when I get more info.
Question - I picked up pr1me's order. It has an extra PCB purchased. How do you all recommend storing it as an emergency pcb if something were to go awry for myself or a future Orion owner? There's enough parts to basically make a second board but, unfortunately, there's no option right now to pick up a second top case. As it stands there's a spare with me for those that have an unfortunate incident. :thumb:
Question - I picked up pr1me's order. It has an extra PCB purchased. How do you all recommend storing it as an emergency pcb if something were to go awry for myself or a future Orion owner? There's enough parts to basically make a second board but, unfortunately, there's no option right now to pick up a second top case. As it stands there's a spare with me for those that have an unfortunate incident. :thumb:
My guess (really not sure) for storage is an anti-static bag with a silica bag to control moisture but i think that's probably excessive as my NerD PCB was just wrapped in foam and a plastic bag.
If anyone is interested in taking my slot. let me know!
Bromono - Silver Winkeyles - Acrylic Angled Bottom - Plastic - $362.69 C34 PAID
If anyone is interested in taking my slot. let me know!
Bromono - Silver Winkeyles - Acrylic Angled Bottom - Plastic - $362.69 C34 PAID
Since this is my first aluminum keyboard group buy I wanted to ask this - If the alu casing gets dented in transit, are we SOL? Currently I'm 1 for 2 in cases that have been dented inbound to me. I'd be so sad if this one happened to be 2/3. :(
- Deadline for order is April 20, 2015.
- Order ONLY if you can pay the invoice by the deadline (May 1st)
- There will be no extras for sale after this group buy is closed, so please put your order in before it's too late ;)
- I will send invoices through Paypal to everyone, so you need a verified Paypal account to receive and pay. Also please check the information carefully before submitting your order. There will be Paypal fees added to the price.
- If you want to make changes to your order, please send me a PM.
- I can only guarantee damages for 7 days from the day you receive the items.
Since this is my first aluminum keyboard group buy I wanted to ask this - If the alu casing gets dented in transit, are we SOL? Currently I'm 1 for 2 in cases that have been dented inbound to me. I'd be so sad if this one happened to be 2/3. :(
OP says you're covered, assuming you report the damage somewhat quickly.- Deadline for order is April 20, 2015.
- Order ONLY if you can pay the invoice by the deadline (May 1st)
- There will be no extras for sale after this group buy is closed, so please put your order in before it's too late ;)
- I will send invoices through Paypal to everyone, so you need a verified Paypal account to receive and pay. Also please check the information carefully before submitting your order. There will be Paypal fees added to the price.
- If you want to make changes to your order, please send me a PM.
- I can only guarantee damages for 7 days from the day you receive the items.
ETA? it has been 2 months
Had email contact with Elton during GH downtime. It seems there's a delay til mid august.
ETA? it has been 2 monthsHad email contact with Elton during GH downtime. It seems there's a delay til mid august.
Can we please have an idea of when packages are going to be sent?
I'm going one month on holidays, it would really be a shame that it arrives when I'm not there.
From kbdlabShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/669/901/002/1abf51b34ac85f46ac3c777b8aa14917.jpg)
From kbdlabShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/669/901/002/1abf51b34ac85f46ac3c777b8aa14917.jpg)
god damnit I want this board
No I had an Octagon and they can changeFrom kbdlabShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/669/901/002/1abf51b34ac85f46ac3c777b8aa14917.jpg)
god damnit I want this board
I'm finding it a bit unclear due to most of the pictures having rainbow backlighting, but we can program the RGB LEDs right? They don't just show rainbow colors all the time, do they?
From kbdlabShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/669/901/002/1abf51b34ac85f46ac3c777b8aa14917.jpg)
Hmm. Hoping I can snag one of these in the classifieds.I hope your wallet is prepared :-X
Hmm. Hoping I can snag one of these in the classifieds.I hope your wallet is prepared :-X
Hmm. Hoping I can snag one of these in the classifieds.I hope your wallet is prepared :-X
I already opened it for a 356cl. I think I can handle it :rolleyes:
Hmm. Hoping I can snag one of these in the classifieds.I hope your wallet is prepared :-X
I already opened it for a 356cl. I think I can handle it :rolleyes:Show Image(http://i.memecaptain.com/gend_images/ndROQg.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9o_Lw-9cleIFrom kbdlabShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/669/901/002/1abf51b34ac85f46ac3c777b8aa14917.jpg)
god damnit I want this board
I'm finding it a bit unclear due to most of the pictures having rainbow backlighting, but we can program the RGB LEDs right? They don't just show rainbow colors all the time, do they?
More photos of the Orion V2All those juicy pics. It's gonna be awesome when it finally arrives! :cool:
[...]
Looking for an order to take over for my GF. Please PM me!
Looking for an order to take over for my GF. Please PM me!
Looks amazing! Needs more winkeyless though...
have to let my order go :{
Silver Winkey
Silver Aluminum Bottom
Steel Plate
please PM me if you want to take over my order, thanks
have to let my order go :{I have an idea. I'll take yours, and Radio_Killah can take my WKL.
Silver Winkey
Silver Aluminum Bottom
Steel Plate
please PM me if you want to take over my order, thanks
have to let my order go :{I have an idea. I'll take yours, and Radio_Killah can take my WKL.
Silver Winkey
Silver Aluminum Bottom
Steel Plate
please PM me if you want to take over my order, thanks
What color combo you got Rsadek?
- RGB lighting support
Firmware is currently in testing stage.
3. Support RGB Function
- RGB color controls available in separate into the lower
I think just for the RGB LEDs on the back
- RGB lighting support
Firmware is currently in testing stage.
As per google translateQuote3. Support RGB Function
- RGB color controls available in separate into the lower
So does that mean RGB in-switch lighting adjustment?!
Too bad i'm so far, i'd totally build your guy's boards.....
I'll have my soldering equipment ready lolToo bad i'm so far, i'd totally build your guy's boards.....
I plan on taking a trip to Japan next year. Maybe I'll have an extra PCB for you to solder for me!
So far I have only seen rainbow backlighting, glad to see you can also display a solid color. Can't wait now!The Koreans love their rainbow. :p
So does that mean RGB in-switch lighting adjustment?!
well, 2 prong RGB LEDs might work, depends on how the Orion V2 is, but on my Octagon 2 prong RGB didn't work, but on my Leeku they did. Obviously you can't control the RGB on them though, they just cycle throughSo does that mean RGB in-switch lighting adjustment?!
Switch footprints on the PCB only accommodate one LED (two leads).
There's simply not enough pads for an RGB LED in each switch (not to mention routing that would be hellish).
have to let my order go :{
Silver Winkey
Silver Aluminum Bottom
Steel Plate
please PM me if you want to take over my order, thanks
Edit: order has been taken
Can we please have an idea of when packages are going to be sent?
I'm going one month on holidays, it would really be a shame that it arrives when I'm not there.
I've been told it's been delayed until mid August. I can ask if they can delay your shipment until you're back..
Please let this still be on schedule for mid august. Please please please :]
damn it, Orion V2 looks so good..It really does Digi ! Im quite bummed I didn't go through with this one but can't get them all !!!
Some of you received a PM from me already but I'll put this out there for anyone who might be willing to help -
I'm currently looking for someone who ordered a steel plate and would be willing to swap me for a plastic plate(I have an extra set). I'm trying to do a review/comparison of each of the plate types(with 62g gold ergo clears) offered in this group buy and the steel plate is the missing piece of the puzzle.
Elton has already tried helping me out buy, understandably, it's a tad late to add on a steel plate to the order.
Please PM me even if you're so much as on the fence about it. Thanks!
Some of you received a PM from me already but I'll put this out there for anyone who might be willing to help -
I'm currently looking for someone who ordered a steel plate and would be willing to swap me for a plastic plate(I have an extra set). I'm trying to do a review/comparison of each of the plate types(with 62g gold ergo clears) offered in this group buy and the steel plate is the missing piece of the puzzle.
Elton has already tried helping me out buy, understandably, it's a tad late to add on a steel plate to the order.
Please PM me even if you're so much as on the fence about it. Thanks!
Wouldn't your best bet be to buy out a third person's order, one with a steel plate? Your pockets seem deep enough.
:))
I'm parting with my order, #5 on the list. Please send me a PM if you have any interest.
I'm parting with my order, #5 on the list. Please send me a PM if you have any interest.Pending.
Some of you received a PM from me already but I'll put this out there for anyone who might be willing to help -
I'm currently looking for someone who ordered a steel plate and would be willing to swap me for a plastic plate(I have an extra set). I'm trying to do a review/comparison of each of the plate types(with 62g gold ergo clears) offered in this group buy and the steel plate is the missing piece of the puzzle.
Elton has already tried helping me out buy, understandably, it's a tad late to add on a steel plate to the order.
Please PM me even if you're so much as on the fence about it. Thanks!
Wouldn't your best bet be to buy out a third person's order, one with a steel plate? Your pockets seem deep enough.
:))
You set this one up, didn't you?!I'm parting with my order, #5 on the list. Please send me a PM if you have any interest.
Will there be a re-confirmation of shipping address before this ships? I'm just curious and you could say a bit paranoid since I changed my address lol
Bad news. Production delay :(
Direct message from the maker:
"Thank you for the inform. I am sorry but schedule will be changed due to surface treatment takes too much time than i expected. I will let you know revise schedule this weekend. I am So Sorry again."
Bad news. Production delay :(
Direct message from the maker:
"Thank you for the inform. I am sorry but schedule will be changed due to surface treatment takes too much time than i expected. I will let you know revise schedule this weekend. I am So Sorry again."
I might let go of my set since I had planned to use the GMK triumph set, but it looks like utter garbage. Also, I am more of a Topre person that cherry. If anyone is interested let me know I will take offers.PMd!
Delay till when? :-\ :-\
To make the wait a bit harder:
(sorry for repost, but I'm crying in front of that video)
I got you my friend. Just remind me when everything gets shipped out.Cool buddy :) yeah acrylic angled is what I'm after!
Edit
Acrylic angled?
If I can get rid of my windows 98 cherry set from the Ivan GB, I think I'm willing to let go of my Orion order. So once that keyset sells I'll let you guys know :) Or if someone wanted to buy both feel free to PM me.
Windows 98 Cherry
Orion, Winkeyless, Blue, Steel Plate, Flat Clear Acrylic Bottom
Hello all! Well, after the delays and a long debate with myself about keyboards, I think I am going to be letting my order go.
I am order #23 in the first round:
-Silver Winkeyless Top
-Plastic Plate
-Flat Acrylic Bottom w/ Chrome Feet
PM me if interested in taking over my order!
Pending to R1N3 :thumb:
Hello all! Well, after the delays and a long debate with myself about keyboards, I think I am going to be letting my order go.
I am order #23 in the first round:
-Silver Winkeyless Top
-Plastic Plate
-Flat Acrylic Bottom w/ Chrome Feet
PM me if interested in taking over my order!
Pending to R1N3 :thumb:
Darnit! I miss everything...
Hello all! Well, after the delays and a long debate with myself about keyboards, I think I am going to be letting my order go.
I am order #23 in the first round:
-Silver Winkeyless Top
-Plastic Plate
-Flat Acrylic Bottom w/ Chrome Feet
PM me if interested in taking over my order!
Pending to R1N3 :thumb:
Darnit! I miss everything...
You aren't the one pending for animated's order? I thought you might have snagged that one :-\
Hello, I am letting go of my order please pm me if you are interested. It is currently pending but whoever pays immediately I will let it go to you.
appleonama Blue Grey Winkey Silver Aluminum Bottom Steel 1 x acrylic angled bottom
1x flat acrylic bottom with chrome feet United States 3.864 $455.00 $67.65 $522.65 $20.68 $543.33 C49 PAID
Hello all! Well, after the delays and a long debate with myself about keyboards, I think I am going to be letting my order go.
I am order #23 in the first round:
-Silver Winkeyless Top
-Plastic Plate
-Flat Acrylic Bottom w/ Chrome Feet
PM me if interested in taking over my order!
Pending to R1N3 :thumb:
Darnit! I miss everything...
You aren't the one pending for animated's order? I thought you might have snagged that one :-\
Sent a PM, but haven't heard anything. I hope so.
Hello all! Well, after the delays and a long debate with myself about keyboards, I think I am going to be letting my order go.
I am order #23 in the first round:
-Silver Winkeyless Top
-Plastic Plate
-Flat Acrylic Bottom w/ Chrome Feet
PM me if interested in taking over my order!
Pending to R1N3 :thumb:
Darnit! I miss everything...
You aren't the one pending for animated's order? I thought you might have snagged that one :-\
Sent a PM, but haven't heard anything. I hope so.
Hey guys I am NOT looking to let go of my order!
u have been joked by the jokester!!!
My order is still available if anyone wants it
My order is still available if anyone wants it
If you ever decide to split the order, I'd gladly grab that angled acrylic bottom off of you.
Sorry guys, I don't have any definite date as to when shipping will occur. As always, I will update ASAP once I know any new information.
Selling Order. #20
PM only if you are serious. Thank you
Selling Order. #20
PM only if you are serious. Thank you
What does your order consist of?
You guys think it will be done by the end of the year?I hope so. hmmmmm
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50 (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50)
???
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50 (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50)
???
duuuuuuude! How can I get an ALPS plate? Someone tell me, please!
-R
have these shipped out yet?
Well, sort of. I picked up an order that someone let go since I missed the original order period. So I'm really asking will someone please sell me an ALPS plate? :)http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50 (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50)
???
duuuuuuude! How can I get an ALPS plate? Someone tell me, please!
-R
It was available when you submitted your order
seems like someone has received their orion v2
seems like someone has received their orion v2
seems like someone has received their orion v2
The pics I posted were from kbdlab. I think duck posted those.
seems like someone has received their orion v2
The pics I posted were from kbdlab. I think duck posted those.
I dunno, the post title (according to google) is "2 Orion received" (Orion 2 received?) as well as the title of the page itself being "receipt of Orion 2"
For anyone who has transferred their order, has elton followed up with you yet? We sent him a PM a couple weeks ago with no response, and no update to the googledoc. Just want to be sure everything is in order before things get shipped out.
For anyone who has transferred their order, has elton followed up with you yet? We sent him a PM a couple weeks ago with no response, and no update to the googledoc. Just want to be sure everything is in order before things get shipped out.I've messaged him before without issue.
For anyone who has transferred their order, has elton followed up with you yet? We sent him a PM a couple weeks ago with no response, and no update to the googledoc. Just want to be sure everything is in order before things get shipped out.I've messaged him before without issue.
Any idea how active he usually is? The PM was sent on the 9th, and he has only briefly logged in once since that time. I don't want to spam him with PMs since I'm sure he's busy, but with all the stuff going on with the TX1800 I'm a little wary about korean boards at the moment.
At the beginning it was said that we would receive a green PCB, in the pictures above there is a red PCB. Which colour do we get now :o
At the beginning it was said that we would receive a green PCB, in the pictures above there is a red PCB. Which colour do we get now :o
Duck PCB's have always been red
At the beginning it was said that we would receive a green PCB, in the pictures above there is a red PCB. Which colour do we get now :o
Duck PCB's have always been red
Didn't the Octagon come with a green PCB?Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=65036.0;attach=97019;image)
I just looked on KBDlab again.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HmmrrzC.png)
I just looked on KBDlab again.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/HmmrrzC.png)
Ohhhh snap. It's happening!!
Finally, the preparation of ships ORION V2 is finished, try to start shipping this week.
All I could find was this on the Free BoardQuoteFinally, the preparation of ships ORION V2 is finished, try to start shipping this week.
Posted by True Custom on the 15th this month.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_cUlO13&document_srl=3069971
you girls should wait for an update from the supreme gb leader before you get your panties all worked up. haha
you girls should wait for an update from the supreme gb leader before you get your panties all worked up. haha
There are no brakes on this hype train :p
All I could find was this on the Free BoardQuoteFinally, the preparation of ships ORION V2 is finished, try to start shipping this week.
Posted by True Custom on the 15th this month.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_cUlO13&document_srl=3069971
According to the Forum Post, the shipping will be FINISHED BEFORE THANKSGIVING
According to the Forum Post, the shipping will be FINISHED BEFORE THANKSGIVING
According to the Forum Post, the shipping will be FINISHED BEFORE THANKSGIVING
This is shipping from the original Korean buy, correct? So tack on another couple of weeks for sorting and shipping here and that pushes the date right up against Christmas shipping, so... expect these early next year?
According to the Forum Post, the shipping will be FINISHED BEFORE THANKSGIVING
Some ALPhaS goodness for yallMoreShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/[spoiler]files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/60fbd05822a0706a6eaa6a924afcfb7b.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/b8c43251402b8869b61e631a22fed0c5.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/3fd0b43d8920dde551490aa4eb57e835.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/0fcbbd06370f32d7d6c8987222260a96.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/07c194c7522f8019f6e3364f96056d78.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/12a77f6ca3b10d2a02308eb20cddb1c4.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/8fc00b5ead4c71b44484ab55c77220ba.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/4b39d77402b42c716156ce4a4d9e92e8.JPG)
All I could find was this on the Free BoardQuoteFinally, the preparation of ships ORION V2 is finished, try to start shipping this week.
Posted by True Custom on the 15th this month.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_cUlO13&document_srl=3069971
On that link, it says I have no permission to view the URL that was posted
> http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_gb_do&document_srl=2611324
Does anyone have access?
Some ALPhaS goodness for yallMoreShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/[spoiler]files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/60fbd05822a0706a6eaa6a924afcfb7b.JPG[/spoiler])Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/b8c43251402b8869b61e631a22fed0c5.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/3fd0b43d8920dde551490aa4eb57e835.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/0fcbbd06370f32d7d6c8987222260a96.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/07c194c7522f8019f6e3364f96056d78.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/12a77f6ca3b10d2a02308eb20cddb1c4.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/8fc00b5ead4c71b44484ab55c77220ba.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/273/086/003/4b39d77402b42c716156ce4a4d9e92e8.JPG)
Nice job posting Leeku's pictures without even giving him credit.
It's okay. I linked the kbdlab thread to leeku and he also mentioned that it was his thread.Hi Elton! I just sent you a PM.I'll ask if he has extra plate and pcb combos left over.Nothing available
I'll tell him to get his ass in here lol
Found a photo of one of these assembled on kbdlab...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/566/093/003/16e1fd2b5cd2a870108a7314a13e2e15.jpg)
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50
:confused:
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iyaxDOQ.jpg)
Didn't you know about the special kbdlab-only option for a special craptastic Orion-without-the-Orionness version?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iyaxDOQ.jpg)
Same question here.
Looks like the Orion v1 top housing. It has a thicker bezel. http://duck0113.tistory.com/114
Looks like the Orion v1 top housing. It has a thicker bezel. http://duck0113.tistory.com/114
correct me if i'm wrong, but the v1 didnt have those 5 LEDs above the arrows.
http://duck0113.tistory.com/86
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3066285&mid=board_Lsno50
:confused:
Wait. Where did the holes above the cursor keys go?
Also, why are there two RGB power LEDs above them?
:eek:
But now that I actually look at the second post he did the guy who got his Orion v2 also doesn't have the holes that we get. I am now confused as well. :confused:
Black and red look amazing, I can't wait for the next board for Duck to release. So disappointed I missed this group buy.
Duck Eagle/Viper v2 ;)
Black and red look amazing, I can't wait for the next board for Duck to release. So disappointed I missed this group buy.
Duck Eagle/Viper v2 ;)
Black and red look amazing, I can't wait for the next board for Duck to release. So disappointed I missed this group buy.
Duck Eagle/Viper v2 ;)
Man I think I'd buy both if it got run again... or maybe just two vipers :cool:
Black and red look amazing, I can't wait for the next board for Duck to release. So disappointed I missed this group buy.
Duck Eagle/Viper v2 ;)
Man I think I'd buy both if it got run again... or maybe just two vipers :cool:
Two is too pricey for me :( Prob get one viper though. Apparently v2 was to have an asymmetric bottom row similar to the hhkb :eek:
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.stop making new stuff I want Duck haha can't afford it :thumb: thanks Elton exciting stuff and I hope your not to overwhelmed with PMs haha
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Uhm, yea, so this will also have Alps support like the Orion!??
SIGN UP FOR THE ALPINE SP GB BOYS!! (it's 60% but you can use blanks or something for the F keys, hehe)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.I'm waiting for that , 75% kb is great :thumb:
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
Sorry guys, I haven't updated the spreadsheet for a while. I will do it today. NOT to worry. I will read through the PMs and change everything in order.
Meanwhile, take a look at their next 75% kustom...Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/247/104/003/1dbc68a5129cd8beeb68b3746be26303.jpg)
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
"Oh hey, look, this must be from that Pay It Forward thing! Oh, my, how generous of my anonymous benefactor!"
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
"Oh hey, look, this must be from that Pay It Forward thing! Oh, my, how generous of my anonymous benefactor!"
I've probably abused the "anonymous benefactor" too much already, dunno if that one's gonna fly again.
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
"Oh hey, look, this must be from that Pay It Forward thing! Oh, my, how generous of my anonymous benefactor!"
I've probably abused the "anonymous benefactor" too much already, dunno if that one's gonna fly again.
Perhaps your cap craft has earned you such a reputation among enthusiasts, that keyboard manufacturers are sending you early releases in order to get a glowing endorsement?
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
The suspense is real. :-X
Well, there has been a LOT of Alps support lately and many in the community are starting to really pay attention to them. Hopefully we can get an Alps PCB!
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Very nice!Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
Is there a problem with saying you bought it (assuming that is what you did)?
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Very nice!Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
Is there a problem with saying you bought it (assuming that is what you did)?
I've had too many boxes come in lately, and the boss is not pleased lolol
But I figured out shipping gonna ship directly to builder, so I can dodge for a bit
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Very nice!Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
Is there a problem with saying you bought it (assuming that is what you did)?
I've had too many boxes come in lately, and the boss is not pleased lolol
But I figured out shipping gonna ship directly to builder, so I can dodge for a bit
When are you going to make more of those watermelon seed caps??Show Image(https://www.keychatter.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/keychatter_2015-10-02_05-07-53.jpg)
Nice! So it's looking probable before Christmas...
Now I just have to figure out how to explain its appearance or smuggle it into my house :v
Well, I was desperate to sell mine because I needed the money but I'm doing well now. I can't wait for this keyboard now.
it is just a keyboard and nothing elseWell, I was desperate to sell mine because I needed the money but I'm doing well now. I can't wait for this keyboard now.
Oh Please,
tell yourself it's just a fxxking KEYBOARD.
it is just a keyboard and nothing elseWell, I was desperate to sell mine because I needed the money but I'm doing well now. I can't wait for this keyboard now.
Oh Please,
tell yourself it's just a fxxking KEYBOARD.
its a luxury item and im fully aware of that. I'm still a student who makes a small amount of income doing so online jobs but I can manage. if you're tired of keyboards why are you still here :rolleyes:
I really need to invest in a new soldering iron :eek: can someone in this thread direct me to someone who offers great keyboard assembly service !? I would references from people who have dealt directly with the people they refer if possible :thumb: thanks all
Also it seems like we are almost there so thanks again Elton and PD for making this possible
I think I broke my pcb somehow resoldering the switches to gateron blues :-( on my duck viper. Every key works except the 7 key.
Is it possible to get a new pcb? Any tips on fixing it?
Thx so much to E3E for fixing my viper! ;DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/h80Lw3F.jpg)
I'm also looking to get a soldering station. I've got a few extra QFRs to practice on first - I want to convert one of them from browns to gateron clears.
I saw a picture with the LED pins clipped and inserted into pre-soldered pin holders - I'm guessing the board does not come with these clips? I'm talking about the LEDs for the 3 and 5 array strips. Just trying to get a list of everything I would need, and I like the idea of being able to easily clip and try other LEDs if I buy a bunch, than resoldering.
I'm also looking to get a soldering station. I've got a few extra QFRs to practice on first - I want to convert one of them from browns to gateron clears.
I saw a picture with the LED pins clipped and inserted into pre-soldered pin holders - I'm guessing the board does not come with these clips? I'm talking about the LEDs for the 3 and 5 array strips. Just trying to get a list of everything I would need, and I like the idea of being able to easily clip and try other LEDs if I buy a bunch, than resoldering.
I think you're talking about SIP sockets. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.0
You'll have to push the sockets out of their plastic housing if you want the switch to close completely. http://imgur.com/a/asdXP
I'm also looking to get a soldering station. I've got a few extra QFRs to practice on first - I want to convert one of them from browns to gateron clears.
I saw a picture with the LED pins clipped and inserted into pre-soldered pin holders - I'm guessing the board does not come with these clips? I'm talking about the LEDs for the 3 and 5 array strips. Just trying to get a list of everything I would need, and I like the idea of being able to easily clip and try other LEDs if I buy a bunch, than resoldering.
I think you're talking about SIP sockets. https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=51792.0
You'll have to push the sockets out of their plastic housing if you want the switch to close completely. http://imgur.com/a/asdXP
I have a completely different approach on putting in SIP sockets. And just made a little guide. http://imgur.com/a/ewFAz
This is how i made all the switches for my ORION
Due to limited amount of time (kids :rolleyes:), I am also considering getting mine assembled. Otherwise there is a great risk mine will be finished when V3 is out... :(
Money is not a big issue, time is. As long as the build is made with tender loving care and I wouldn't expect anything less from this great community! :)
Only problem is that I am located in Sweden, so shipping it + all parts to the States or Asia is a bit of a drag. Anyone located within the EU that has good experience assembling keyboards and willing to offer their services in exchange for some extra cash?
Wicked! Thanks for the tip. :)Due to limited amount of time (kids :rolleyes:), I am also considering getting mine assembled. Otherwise there is a great risk mine will be finished when V3 is out... :(
Money is not a big issue, time is. As long as the build is made with tender loving care and I wouldn't expect anything less from this great community! :)
Only problem is that I am located in Sweden, so shipping it + all parts to the States or Asia is a bit of a drag. Anyone located within the EU that has good experience assembling keyboards and willing to offer their services in exchange for some extra cash?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=73134.0
Location - Sweden. You are Welcome =)
These words make no sense together. Like one of those wacky shirts:...just a keyboard...Well, I was desperate to sell mine because I needed the money but I'm doing well now. I can't wait for this keyboard now..... just a fxxking KEYBOARD....
Am I the only one worried by the fact that my Paypal protection ends in a week for that paiement?
I don't see the point of paying Paypal fees if the shipping is done after the protection limit.
Also, Elton, please communicate. That's terrible to be in the dark like we are right now.
Am I the only one worried by the fact that my Paypal protection ends in a week for that paiement?
I don't see the point of paying Paypal fees if the shipping is done after the protection limit.
Also, Elton, please communicate. That's terrible to be in the dark like we are right now.
It's not against Elton, I trust him, but if anything happens (package lost, case broken), I feel like I'll be a very bad position.
Also, what's the point of paying Paypal fees if we don't use Paypal protection?
PP fees are paid so that elton doesn't lose money on the buy. Otherwise PP takes a cut directly and he loses out.
There is a higher possibility of me dying before getting this. :rolleyes:
PP fees are paid so that elton doesn't lose money on the buy. Otherwise PP takes a cut directly and he loses out.
Then why didn't we just make a payment as gift?
Show Image(http://a.nigger.cat/ojwgnx.png)
Well, it's gotta be soon...
anyone have any info on what GB he's running next?
anyone have any info on what GB he's running next?
I think Eagle/Viper v2 are next. Not 100% sure though.
Isn't there still the next Lightsaver group buy? Not sure what happened to this.
do u know when Octagon GB will start? :DI think it will start next year , because they still not ship Orion v2 for international order :thumb:
Hello guys, I am going to let go of my spot for the Orion V2.
This is one of the very few orders with the ALPS combo so I hope that it will get picked up shortly.
FrostyToast
Silver Winkeyless
Acrylic Angled Bottom
Plastic Plate
ALPS Plate and PCB
$433.61
Hello guys, I am going to let go of my spot for the Orion V2.
This is one of the very few orders with the ALPS combo so I hope that it will get picked up shortly.
FrostyToast
Silver Winkeyless
Acrylic Angled Bottom
Plastic Plate
ALPS Plate and PCB
$433.61
No...
We're so close! :p
Dangit, I would be all over your order but I was hoping for a MX set :(
Dangit, I would be all over your order but I was hoping for a MX set :(
His order comes with a plastic plate and mx pcb. If you decide to pick it up I'd be happy to take the alps combo off of you.
That goes to anyone who would want to pick up frosty's order. Lmk!
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?Oh cool. You're trying to mod your Orion so it will be able to do switch hot-swap?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
Outer diameter and inner diameter. The pin holes on the PCB are the same size, but the Cherry pins themselves are NOT. The OD is what matters when it comes to slotting the sockets into the PCB; the ID is what matters when you want to insert the switch into the sockets.
Now that I think about it I suppose you don't actually NEED the OD to be the same if you plan on soldering all the sockets in. I'm not sure how secure it would be, though. In the smart68 GB thread, feng mentioned the developer of the board worked on it for like two years, so I don't think it's a simple process.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
okay nice yeah it seems like he used a different receptacle to fix the issue he had of the different cherry pin sizes that ika was talking about. And he uses ones that don't require solder. I think his main issue was his PCB had different layout so his switch mounting points weren't completely circular and a bit ovalish. I guess I just need to wait to see more info on the octagon pcb.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
okay nice yeah it seems like he used a different receptacle to fix the issue he had of the different cherry pin sizes that ika was talking about. And he uses ones that don't require solder. I think his main issue was his PCB had different layout so his switch mounting points weren't completely circular and a bit ovalish. I guess I just need to wait to see more info on the octagon pcb.
Are you planning on doing this for the Octagon or for the Orion v2? If you check out some of the pics, the holes on his winkeyless.kr PCB are round, not oval, so these receptacles should fit no problem. The problems he mentions were because of the switch pin holes running into the cutouts for the stem well on the bottom of the switch. Since they are solderless, they had to be secured more sturdily. These can also be soldered too though, but they should hold solidly and be flush fitting if the size of the whole is correct.
The measurements I got when checking the ID of the switch pin holes in a Duck Lightpad PCB were around 1.55mm.
The measurements I got in Cherry pins were .80mm for the smaller stout pin and 1mm for the wider, leafy pin.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
okay nice yeah it seems like he used a different receptacle to fix the issue he had of the different cherry pin sizes that ika was talking about. And he uses ones that don't require solder. I think his main issue was his PCB had different layout so his switch mounting points weren't completely circular and a bit ovalish. I guess I just need to wait to see more info on the octagon pcb.
Are you planning on doing this for the Octagon or for the Orion v2? If you check out some of the pics, the holes on his winkeyless.kr PCB are round, not oval, so these receptacles should fit no problem. The problems he mentions were because of the switch pin holes running into the cutouts for the stem well on the bottom of the switch. Since they are solderless, they had to be secured more sturdily. These can also be soldered too though, but they should hold solidly and be flush fitting if the size of the whole is correct.
The measurements I got when checking the ID of the switch pin holes in a Duck Lightpad PCB were around 1.55mm.
The measurements I got in Cherry pins were .80mm for the smaller stout pin and 1mm for the wider, leafy pin.
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
okay nice yeah it seems like he used a different receptacle to fix the issue he had of the different cherry pin sizes that ika was talking about. And he uses ones that don't require solder. I think his main issue was his PCB had different layout so his switch mounting points weren't completely circular and a bit ovalish. I guess I just need to wait to see more info on the octagon pcb.
Are you planning on doing this for the Octagon or for the Orion v2? If you check out some of the pics, the holes on his winkeyless.kr PCB are round, not oval, so these receptacles should fit no problem. The problems he mentions were because of the switch pin holes running into the cutouts for the stem well on the bottom of the switch. Since they are solderless, they had to be secured more sturdily. These can also be soldered too though, but they should hold solidly and be flush fitting if the size of the whole is correct.
The measurements I got when checking the ID of the switch pin holes in a Duck Lightpad PCB were around 1.55mm.
The measurements I got in Cherry pins were .80mm for the smaller stout pin and 1mm for the wider, leafy pin.
do you also know what he means when he says he centre punched and hammered the inserts into the pcb? Does he mean he literally just banged them into the pcb?
anyone know/think these pin receptacles could fit in the duck PCB? The datasheet says the diameter is .058mm..so could anyone tell me the diameter of the the switch mounting hole?
edit:sorry forgot to include the link https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0305-2-15-15-47-27-10-0/ED90333-ND/1801940
Are you intending to use these as hot-swap receptacles? Keep in mind that you'll have to use two different kinds of sockets, since Cherry switch pins are different widths. You'll need the same OD and different IDs. That said, I hope someone has an answer for you, because it sounds interesting!
Yeah I am, I was actually hoping to test them out on zealios first. But what do you mean by OD and ID?
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/430702-custom-keyboard-hot-swapable-switch-build/
This is an excellent read if you're looking into hotswapping.
okay nice yeah it seems like he used a different receptacle to fix the issue he had of the different cherry pin sizes that ika was talking about. And he uses ones that don't require solder. I think his main issue was his PCB had different layout so his switch mounting points weren't completely circular and a bit ovalish. I guess I just need to wait to see more info on the octagon pcb.
Are you planning on doing this for the Octagon or for the Orion v2? If you check out some of the pics, the holes on his winkeyless.kr PCB are round, not oval, so these receptacles should fit no problem. The problems he mentions were because of the switch pin holes running into the cutouts for the stem well on the bottom of the switch. Since they are solderless, they had to be secured more sturdily. These can also be soldered too though, but they should hold solidly and be flush fitting if the size of the whole is correct.
The measurements I got when checking the ID of the switch pin holes in a Duck Lightpad PCB were around 1.55mm.
The measurements I got in Cherry pins were .80mm for the smaller stout pin and 1mm for the wider, leafy pin.
do you also know what he means when he says he centre punched and hammered the inserts into the pcb? Does he mean he literally just banged them into the pcb?
Yeah, I talked to him a ton through the messaging system on that forum to get my plans for an Alps-build with hotswapping figured out.
Yeah, he did actually hammer the pins in, but he did say in the end, that simply heating the sockets with a soldering iron and pushing them in made the process a lot easier. So that's what I'd go for if you plan on doing this. Taking a hammer and a punch sounds insanely dangerous for both your fingers, the sockets, and the PCB. :P
haha ok I see. So the receptacle data sheet says the mounting hole diameter is 1.47mm and you said the duck pcb is around 1.55mm. You think that'll be fine? Or does it have to be completely flush with the trace for it to work?
haha ok I see. So the receptacle data sheet says the mounting hole diameter is 1.47mm and you said the duck pcb is around 1.55mm. You think that'll be fine? Or does it have to be completely flush with the trace for it to work?
I can't say with the utmost certainty as, for my case, I'll have to be drilling out the holes a slight amount because the only receptacles that would work with Alps are too wide to just slip in. I can't imagine the through holes being so off between the WKL.kr PCB and the Duck that it won't work. The next size up on those is a 1.60mm diameter. I'd say going a little less might be a better idea.
If you are worried, then try ordering a small amount of both sizes to see which works best for ya! Maybe we should take this to PM too by the way, unless the guys here don't mind our conversation here.
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.Sweet. If I can get in on this then this'll be my first Duck. Hopefully it'll have Alps.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.Sweet. If I can get in on this then this'll be my first Duck. Hopefully it'll have Alps.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
Will this thread be the best way to get updated on that? Don't mean to hijack the Orion line just for the Octagon.
Also, how many Orion boards were successfully ordered after the first 30? Just want to know the chances of getting on the Octagon.
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.Sweet. If I can get in on this then this'll be my first Duck. Hopefully it'll have Alps.
Regarding alps for the new 75% I am not sure they will go along with it unless there are significant interest in it. If there are they can get leeku to make them as an add on.
Will this thread be the best way to get updated on that? Don't mean to hijack the Orion line just for the Octagon.
Also, how many Orion boards were successfully ordered after the first 30? Just want to know the chances of getting on the Octagon.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
Elton I have sent an inquiry via pm. I don't know if you got it.
I am in the latter half of the orders so I hope that they can be addressed.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
I've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
Yesssssss! So just to make sure, do we need anything other than switches, leds, and stabilizers?
The whole keyboard is a light show. Pretty sure everyone bought it to make a light showI've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
Yesssssss! So just to make sure, do we need anything other than switches, leds, and stabilizers?
Correct. The PCB parts are presoldered, so the kits will be ready to go with just switches and stabs. And LEDs if you're into that sort of thing. :p
The whole keyboard is a light show. Pretty sure everyone bought it to make a light showI've received an update regarding the first 30 orders are packed and are waiting to be picked up. Hopefully we get it by next week!
I will update the order changes tonight.
On behalf of truecustom, I apologize to everyone about the long delays.
Yesssssss! So just to make sure, do we need anything other than switches, leds, and stabilizers?
Correct. The PCB parts are presoldered, so the kits will be ready to go with just switches and stabs. And LEDs if you're into that sort of thing. :p
Yesssssss! So just to make sure, do we need anything other than switches, leds, and stabilizers?
ugh im not first 30 gg im probably going to randomly have a stroke tomrrow
ugh im not first 30 gg im probably going to randomly have a stroke tomrrow
He just did a few posts agooh
I'll have the tracking #s for the first 30 tonight or tomorrow.
I'll have the tracking #s for the first 30 tonight or tomorrow.
I'll have the tracking #s for the first 30 tonight or tomorrow.
Hi Elton, do you have any spot for the Orion V2 now ?
Or we must wait for the next round GB?
Hi Elton, do you have any spot for the Orion V2 now ?
Or we must wait for the next round GB?
I'll have the tracking #s for the first 30 tonight or tomorrow.
Hi Elton, do you have any spot for the Orion V2 now ?
Or we must wait for the next round GB?
Orders have been closed for a long time.
You will have to wait for another round. That is, if there is ever another round.
Hi Elton, do you have any spot for the Orion V2 now ?
Or we must wait for the next round GB?
Orders have been closed for a long time.
You will have to wait for another round. That is, if there is ever another round.
If I was one for TKLs, this comment would be way 2spooky3me :'(
Hi Elton, do you have any spot for the Orion V2 now ?
Or we must wait for the next round GB?
Orders have been closed for a long time.
You will have to wait for another round. That is, if there is ever another round.
If I was one for TKLs, this comment would be way 2spooky3me :'(
Well I think the bigger picture here is that if there isn't a second round for this board then there will be a v3 or something of the like.
The only time when a TKL from truecustom is out of the question is when he stops making boards.
mine is in JFK airport nowSame with mine. Looks like we'll be getting these this week!
just gotta wait for customs now...
Tracking #s are updated for some.. Due to some problems manufacturing the acrylic angled bottom casings, there weren't many available to ship hence the mixed of order in shipping.So the rest of 1st 30 orders has to wait for another month? :'(
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
It's about another month for the rest to be ready to ship.
Tracking #s are updated for some.. Due to some problems manufacturing the acrylic angled bottom casings, there weren't many available to ship hence the mixed of order in shipping.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
It's about another month for the rest to be ready to ship.
Just received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
Just received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
PICTURES PICTURES!!!
Just received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
PICTURES PICTURES!!!Show Image(http://ww1.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfvc6f6j24802tcx6s.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfir206j24802tcqv7.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpesw73gj24802tcu10.jpg)Show Image(http://ww3.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpczmgojj24802tc1l1.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpcnd80qj24802tc7wk.jpg)
For original sized pictures and more you can check: (click 查看大图)
http://photo.weibo.com/1421324307/albums/detail/album_id/3904765762372638#!/mode/1/page/1
The blue-grey + silver case is from Elton. The full black case is ordered from another source.
Just received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
PICTURES PICTURES!!!Show Image(http://ww1.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfvc6f6j24802tcx6s.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfir206j24802tcqv7.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpesw73gj24802tcu10.jpg)Show Image(http://ww3.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpczmgojj24802tc1l1.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpcnd80qj24802tc7wk.jpg)
For original sized pictures and more you can check: (click 查看大图)
http://photo.weibo.com/1421324307/albums/detail/album_id/3904765762372638#!/mode/1/page/1
The blue-grey + silver case is from Elton. The full black case is ordered from another source.
Sorry for my confusion, but did you buy a second Orion from Elton, or is that just Elton's for whatever reason?
Just received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
PICTURES PICTURES!!!Show Image(http://ww1.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfvc6f6j24802tcx6s.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfir206j24802tcqv7.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpesw73gj24802tcu10.jpg)Show Image(http://ww3.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpczmgojj24802tc1l1.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpcnd80qj24802tc7wk.jpg)
For original sized pictures and more you can check: (click 查看大图)
http://photo.weibo.com/1421324307/albums/detail/album_id/3904765762372638#!/mode/1/page/1
The blue-grey + silver case is from Elton. The full black case is ordered from another source.
Sorry for my confusion, but did you buy a second Orion from Elton, or is that just Elton's for whatever reason?
A BlueGrey + Silver from Elton and a Black + Black from local vendor. :rolleyes:
Almost timeI can't ****ing wait!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lIxSucT.jpg)
Almost timeI can't ****ing wait!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lIxSucT.jpg)
Which springs did you get in your zealios?
Almost timeHow did the soldering go? According to the Zealios GB thread some have had issues with the switches being a bit sensitive to the heat from the soldering iron. Causing the plastic to deform and ruining the actuation etc.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lIxSucT.jpg)
Almost timeHow did the soldering go? According to the Zealios GB thread some have had issues with the switches being a bit sensitive to the heat from the soldering iron. Causing the plastic to deform and ruining the actuation etc.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lIxSucT.jpg)
Damn bro you shoulda hit me up!Almost timeI can't ****ing wait!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/lIxSucT.jpg)
Which springs did you get in your zealios?
I was JUST in atlanta over the weekend btw!
The setup is unmodified 62g zealios and semi-clipped stabilizers. The leg of the stabs were only clipped to remove the pointed 90 degree ends rather than the whole leg people would usually do. Since OG red alert is being used I'm sure this set will see the mods being switched out a few times and this was a precaution against cherry stabs getting pulled off.
Anyone know a quick way to tell LED polarity on the Orion V2 pcb? It seems only switch holes with multiple positions have it marked.
*edit: It seems the positive side of the led is the farthest from the resistor/ + side on left side of switch when inserting into switch/pcb when not marked otherwise
Link that might help others:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84 (http://duck0113.tistory.com/84) Breakdown on getting the keymapper up and running, and installing flip/java for firmware upload and atmel usb drivers
*
Ended up going with gateron reds with red leds with caps from a g80-1000 (black winkeyless/ss plate/acrylic wedge). I'll post pics tomorrow if anyone interested. :thumb:
I have to say the the packaging for this was even more robust than the last Lightsaver buy. Thanks again for running this elton!
Anyone know a quick way to tell LED polarity on the Orion V2 pcb? It seems only switch holes with multiple positions have it marked.
*edit: It seems the positive side of the led is the farthest from the resistor/ + side on left side of switch when inserting into switch/pcb when not marked otherwise
Link that might help others:
http://duck0113.tistory.com/84 (http://duck0113.tistory.com/84) Breakdown on getting the keymapper up and running, and installing flip/java for firmware upload and atmel usb drivers
*
Ended up going with gateron reds with red leds with caps from a g80-1000 (black winkeyless/ss plate/acrylic wedge). I'll post pics tomorrow if anyone interested. :thumb:
I have to say the the packaging for this was even more robust than the last Lightsaver buy. Thanks again for running this elton!
Haven't seen the PCB yet but usually square is positive and oval is negative if it happens to look like this.
(Attachment Link)
quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.
Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?
It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! :thumb:
quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.
Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?
It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! :thumb:
i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong ;D
I just received my board, and though I haven't tested it, the other poster earlier said that polarity should be Positive on the Farthest circle from the Resistor. Basically, if you are looking at the Front of the PCB, it would mean Pos is Left, as when you flip it over, the resistors are on the Left, so pos is Right on the reverse side of board. I'm assuming this is the same for the other LEDs as well.
I'm SUPER impressed with the quality of the machining on the alum top. I love how the LED cutouts are done - with the pinholes on top of the dome cuts. I got the angled bottom and it is SOLID. I'm still going to toy around with different spring weights for some of the keys before I solder it together - I only got 60 of the 65g Zealios. I'm thinking of mixing some other springs with Gat linears - 65g Zeals would be roughly equal to what actuation weight? I have some Sprits 78 (2 pcs), 72, 62 and 68 (which are weighted for total compression) and some Gateron springs (massdrop) which are weighted for actuation at 62, 45, and 80 (super heavy). I've got more gat browns if I want more tactiles, but if they are going to be different I might as well do linears, is my thinking.
quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.
Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?
It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! :thumb:
i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong ;D
As someone who's dealt with SIPs a ton, you'll be fine. In practical terms and through experience assembling boards and changing out LEDs, there is no harm to the board when it comes putting in LEDs the wrong way around, just that it's a major PITA if you SOLDERED them all that way.
quick question. I was stupid and completely forgot about LED Polarity when assembling my switches. So chances are that 50% of my assembled switches will be "the wrong way round". As I am using SIP Sockets, changing polarity shouldnt be too much of a hassle. I was planning on soldering all the switches and then see which LEDs I have to flip.
Will having an LED inserted "the wrong way round" have a negative effect except that no light is being emitted? E.g. does it make the LED break or even worse does anything happen to the pcb?
It would be great if somebody could give me an answer to that! :thumb:
i think it wont do any damage. only make the led wont work.
just like inserted wrong battery, it wont ON but not damaged.
but maybe im wrong ;D
As someone who's dealt with SIPs a ton, you'll be fine. In practical terms and through experience assembling boards and changing out LEDs, there is no harm to the board when it comes putting in LEDs the wrong way around, just that it's a major PITA if you SOLDERED them all that way.
Thanks a ton for your help! I guess ill just solder all my switches and flip the LEDs that dont light up :)
I just received my board, and though I haven't tested it, the other poster earlier said that polarity should be Positive on the Farthest circle from the Resistor. Basically, if you are looking at the Front of the PCB, it would mean Pos is Left, as when you flip it over, the resistors are on the Left, so pos is Right on the reverse side of board. I'm assuming this is the same for the other LEDs as well.
I'm SUPER impressed with the quality of the machining on the alum top. I love how the LED cutouts are done - with the pinholes on top of the dome cuts. I got the angled bottom and it is SOLID. I'm still going to toy around with different spring weights for some of the keys before I solder it together - I only got 60 of the 65g Zealios. I'm thinking of mixing some other springs with Gat linears - 65g Zeals would be roughly equal to what actuation weight? I have some Sprits 78 (2 pcs), 72, 62 and 68 (which are weighted for total compression) and some Gateron springs (massdrop) which are weighted for actuation at 62, 45, and 80 (super heavy). I've got more gat browns if I want more tactiles, but if they are going to be different I might as well do linears, is my thinking.
I'm pretty sure that Zeal weighted his switches using the Korean standard, so the weight should be most similar to the 62g and 68g SPRiT springs you have.
If the Gateton 45g springs are anything like Cherry MX reds, then the bottom out weight should be 60g.
Potato pic:
(Attachment Link)
I made myself LOL over the light bleed on the caps lock key. :p
I do have to take off the bottom and resolder the LED under the Print Screen key (cold solder joint...), but not bad for a rush job I guess.
Potato pic:
(Attachment Link)
I made myself LOL over the light bleed on the caps lock key. :p
I do have to take off the bottom and resolder the LED under the Print Screen key (cold solder joint...), but not bad for a rush job I guess.
Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?No sip sockets. I have no plan to change the LED colors. I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing." Probably set with controls I didn't flash... The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one. I wanted a different angle than the LSv2. It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic. I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid. Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot. It's definitely a keeper.
Why do you post a picture of almost the build I've planned to do while I didn't receive the board yet? >:D
Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?No sip sockets. I have no plan to change the LED colors. I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing." Probably set with controls I didn't flash... The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one. I wanted a different angle than the LSv2. It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic. I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid. Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot. It's definitely a keeper.
Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?No sip sockets. I have no plan to change the LED colors. I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing." Probably set with controls I didn't flash... The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one. I wanted a different angle than the LSv2. It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic. I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid. Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot. It's definitely a keeper.
Glad to hear how solid it feels, I do like the acrylic of the RS96 but it does feel a little flimsy. I should be getting an acrylic angled bottom and a aluminum bottom, I'll probably end up using the alu bottom. I love the the acrylic slits when using both the aluminum top and bottom.
Nice job, did you not sip socket your switches? They are a pain in the ass but it's so worth it when an LED burns out or you change the LEDs to match a set. Also what time of button is your Orion v2, black aluminum?No sip sockets. I have no plan to change the LED colors. I set the base color to red as well, but haven't quite figured out how to stop the base lights from "breathing." Probably set with controls I didn't flash... The base is the acrylic wedge, not the aluminum one. I wanted a different angle than the LSv2. It's such a solid build, even with the acrylic. I was a bit wary about acrylic bottoms after building the RSIII (kind of flimsy, even with the plate), but the Orion V2 is rock solid. Glad I got in on the buy, and glad I didn't puss out and sell my spot. It's definitely a keeper.
Glad to hear how solid it feels, I do like the acrylic of the RS96 but it does feel a little flimsy. I should be getting an acrylic angled bottom and a aluminum bottom, I'll probably end up using the alu bottom. I love the the acrylic slits when using both the aluminum top and bottom.
I don't see you on my order list though? :P
Mine should be in my hands tomorrow. I'll post an unboxing or something :D
tfw one of those pink slips is in your door :'(
Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?
Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?
Should be here:http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/84
EDIT:
Sorry it is here: http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124
The newer version for Orion v2 is here
http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124
Thanks elton, got mine yesterday and I've just finished assembling it!
Does anyone happen know where to get the program to, well program it?
Should be here:http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/84
EDIT:
Sorry it is here: http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124The newer version for Orion v2 is here
http://duck0113.tistory.com/m/post/124
Thanks guys, really appreciate it! Assumed it would have been in the OP and never bothered researching it :))
Does that plastic plate support switch top removal? I don't see the required notches.
For that matter, do the steel/alu plates support it? I was under the impression that they do but now I'm second-guessing myself.
Just received the package. I love that "Made in Korea" sticker!
The top housing is really lighter than I thought, so I'm very glad that I choose to pay a bit more to have the alu bottom. Looks really great overall.
Elton, sorry about that Paypal thing, but I was really worried. In the end everything is okay so thanks a lot!
Do you know if we could order some acrylic inserts to put under the holes?
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine
well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine
well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board
Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.
Some shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine
well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board
Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.
Lol yes it's a real battle I am so torn at the moment. I love topre and my topre collection but the reality is I only use 2 topre boards out of my 5. I can't have money laying around being unused. I might as well sell them to someone who will use them. This will leave me with my favorite topre boards and awesome cherry board.
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
Ran out of solder..... >:D
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
You may have one potato ;). 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar
Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
You may have one potato ;). 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar
Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.
Just get them on Ebay. Free shipping from Thailand to you.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING-/260551794155?hash=item3caa18ddeb:g:9L4AAOxy4RpRzERk
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
You may have one potato ;). 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar
Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.
Just get them on Ebay. Free shipping from Thailand to you.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-x-40-Pin-DIP-SIP-IC-Sockets-Adaptor-Solder-Type-FREE-SHIPPING-/260551794155?hash=item3caa18ddeb:g:9L4AAOxy4RpRzERk
The ones on eBay are short and don't protrude through the LED holes in my experience. Sethk recently ran a group buy for Mill-Max sockets from Mouser, those are the ones you're looking for. A good deal pricier than the eBay sockets, but for good reason.
Ran out of solder..... >:D
where did you all source your stabs?
where did you all source your stabs?
where did you all source your stabs?
Got mine from GON http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/ (http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/)
but saw icyskyz was selling some on reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/3rr1yb/tw_h_stabilizer_wires_blue_sleeved_mini_usb_cable/ (https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/3rr1yb/tw_h_stabilizer_wires_blue_sleeved_mini_usb_cable/)
:thumb: Well, I'll find love in the Orion but I'm a little skeptical since the duck Eagle wasn't great. Maybe it was the switches, 62g ergo clears felt very cheap to me compared to topre. I recently tried my blacks and they felt awesome for linears. I will be using gateron blacks withSome shots before I build it over the weekend. :)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/dc304bb833f3c4533619f5c905571f69.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/d28375b349d0f73ff0f571c14c70b953.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/04/26119937f2c84efa1a1431c32aa3469b.jpg)
so freaking awesome no way i could sell mine
well RIP my topre collection gotta make way for 1 cherry board
Ahaha. I like your renewed vigor! I know how it is to be torn on a buy, man. Good luck battling those demons, hehe.
Lol yes it's a real battle I am so torn at the moment. I love topre and my topre collection but the reality is I only use 2 topre boards out of my 5. I can't have money laying around being unused. I might as well sell them to someone who will use them. This will leave me with my favorite topre boards and awesome cherry board.
That's definitely good logic to follow. It can definitely be hard to let go to boards sometimes, even if you don't use them often. Oh the sentimental attachment!
All of you post pictures please show off your glories boards.
You may have one potato ;). 65g zealios + 72g spring in zealio for spacebar
Does anyone happen to know if anyone still sells sip sockets that have not been removed from their plastic housing? I remember zeal selling them but I may be mistaken.
where did you all source your stabs?
where did you all source your stabs?
Sprit aka sprite guy
I bought springs, stabs, and lube ;) from him it took about a week for shipping in the USA
Welp then everyone should take this advice. I remember he disappeared when he was fulfilling cases.where did you all source your stabs?
Sprit aka sprite guy
I bought springs, stabs, and lube ;) from him it took about a week for shipping in the USA
Sprit has gone off the deep end again, he's vanished but has slowly been filling out orders. Last I saw somebody that put in an order in the beginning of August got theirs mid October. Just be wary, :thumb:
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
I should've went blue grey and black looks awesomeJust received mine, safe and sound. It's in perfect condition and I'm gonna assemble it right away.
Will post pics after assembling.
Thanks Elton for the perfect work. :thumb:
PICTURES PICTURES!!!Show Image(http://ww1.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfvc6f6j24802tcx6s.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpfir206j24802tcqv7.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpesw73gj24802tcu10.jpg)Show Image(http://ww3.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpczmgojj24802tc1l1.jpg)Show Image(http://ww4.sinaimg.cn/mw690/54b7b013gw1exmpcnd80qj24802tc7wk.jpg)
For original sized pictures and more you can check: (click 查看大图)
http://photo.weibo.com/1421324307/albums/detail/album_id/3904765762372638#!/mode/1/page/1
The blue-grey + silver case is from Elton. The full black case is ordered from another source.
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Great build kacase! I saw your post on reddit and lol'd a little bit by how ignorant the people were commenting on your Orion. They had absolutely no clue what the board was, why it costs so much, and why it did not have any windows keys. :p
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Great build kacase! I saw your post on reddit and lol'd a little bit by how ignorant the people were commenting on your Orion. They had absolutely no clue what the board was, why it costs so much, and why it did not have any windows keys. :p
The reddit MK community is a nice place. Can't blame them for not being elitist enthusiasts. :P It's pretty much the first place a person goes to get their feet wet in this hobby.
Apologies if I am going sort of off-topic with this, but can someone who used SIP sockets for LEDs tell me if it was worth it? I am currently removing SIP sockets from their housing for my Orion and it's super annoying :D
Apologies if I am going sort of off-topic with this, but can someone who used SIP sockets for LEDs tell me if it was worth it? I am currently removing SIP sockets from their housing for my Orion and it's super annoying :D
Sip Sockets are so worth in my opinion, it's a pain at first but worth it in the end. It's nice when you have a faulty LED die and then it just becomes and easy swap, or if you change your keyset and want new matching LEDs to go along with it then it's much easier to swap the LEDs than de-soldering and soldering new LEDs.
Apologies if I am going sort of off-topic with this, but can someone who used SIP sockets for LEDs tell me if it was worth it? I am currently removing SIP sockets from their housing for my Orion and it's super annoying :D
Sip Sockets are so worth in my opinion, it's a pain at first but worth it in the end. It's nice when you have a faulty LED die and then it just becomes and easy swap, or if you change your keyset and want new matching LEDs to go along with it then it's much easier to swap the LEDs than de-soldering and soldering new LEDs.
Alright, sounds like I will continue. Seems to be really worth it afterall :D
Apologies if I am going sort of off-topic with this, but can someone who used SIP sockets for LEDs tell me if it was worth it? I am currently removing SIP sockets from their housing for my Orion and it's super annoying :D
Sip Sockets are so worth in my opinion, it's a pain at first but worth it in the end. It's nice when you have a faulty LED die and then it just becomes and easy swap, or if you change your keyset and want new matching LEDs to go along with it then it's much easier to swap the LEDs than de-soldering and soldering new LEDs.
FYI the link isn't working for me.
Alright, sounds like I will continue. Seems to be really worth it afterall :D
With my method it's actually not that much of a pain http://imgur.com/a/null/titledesc
Just out of curiosity does anyone happen to have a flat acrylic bottom they'd be willing to sell?
Just out of curiosity does anyone happen to have a flat acrylic bottom they'd be willing to sell?
I have a flat acrylic bottom that I would like to trade. Its my only bottom :-[
Apologies if I am going sort of off-topic with this, but can someone who used SIP sockets for LEDs tell me if it was worth it? I am currently removing SIP sockets from their housing for my Orion and it's super annoying :D
Sip Sockets are so worth in my opinion, it's a pain at first but worth it in the end. It's nice when you have a faulty LED die and then it just becomes and easy swap, or if you change your keyset and want new matching LEDs to go along with it then it's much easier to swap the LEDs than de-soldering and soldering new LEDs.
Alright, sounds like I will continue. Seems to be really worth it afterall :D
With my method it's actually not that much of a pain http://imgur.com/a/null/titledesc (http://imgur.com/a/null/titledesc)
Just some photos..Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/06/93addb4106a9b540e9b1ad9994df9257.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/06/8dd778e0589ef572b7e6b2768f5d0dbd.jpg)
Here are some pics of my assembled goodness:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wtgdtvg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/4qz5TiY.gif)
(http://i.imgur.com/d8A8mpL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/d8A8mpL)
Great build kacase! I saw your post on reddit and lol'd a little bit by how ignorant the people were commenting on your Orion. They had absolutely no clue what the board was, why it costs so much, and why it did not have any windows keys. :p
The reddit MK community is a nice place. Can't blame them for not being elitist enthusiasts. :P It's pretty much the first place a person goes to get their feet wet in this hobby.
Yeah I know, by no means was I trying to talk bad about r/MK. I'm not a fan though, I don't see people there appreciate keyboards as much as Geekhack if I'm honest. I spent about 10 hours prepping, building, and keymapping my RS96 and post it on reddit to get about 20 upvotes and then have somebody post there unicorn puke Pok3r and it his the front page of r/MK. I honestly don't really care about upvotes, never did but it's the fact that Pok3r with random ass keycaps than an a custom keyboard, an Orion, an RS96, etc.
Just assembled mine and I have some problems with the screws. I have the flat acryllic backplate and the 4 long screws that you are supposed to screw in the corner won't go all the way down. At some point they just won't go further down and unfortunately I learned that the hard way and one of my screws just broke off after I tried tried to tighten it even more in an attempt to make it go all the way down. Now I have half of a screw stuck in my top housing. However the 4 small screws worked just fine. My plan is to get similar screws that I can screw into the 3 corners that I have left and just leave that one corner screw alone and treat it as a cosmetic defect.
Anyway back to the point, anyone had similar problems where the 4 corner screws wouldn't go all the way down?
This is why I was confused, the screw count seemed exactly right. Well I ****ed up. Gotta get more flat screws now and later see how to remove the broken one...
Will trade a Clack for an unbuilt kit, pm for details.
Just assembled mine and I have some problems with the screws. I have the flat acryllic backplate and the 4 long screws that you are supposed to screw in the corner won't go all the way down. At some point they just won't go further down and unfortunately I learned that the hard way and one of my screws just broke off after I tried tried to tighten it even more in an attempt to make it go all the way down. Now I have half of a screw stuck in my top housing. However the 4 small screws worked just fine. My plan is to get similar screws that I can screw into the 3 corners that I have left and just leave that one corner screw alone and treat it as a cosmetic defect.
Anyway back to the point, anyone had similar problems where the 4 corner screws wouldn't go all the way down?
Just assembled mine and I have some problems with the screws. I have the flat acryllic backplate and the 4 long screws that you are supposed to screw in the corner won't go all the way down. At some point they just won't go further down and unfortunately I learned that the hard way and one of my screws just broke off after I tried tried to tighten it even more in an attempt to make it go all the way down. Now I have half of a screw stuck in my top housing. However the 4 small screws worked just fine. My plan is to get similar screws that I can screw into the 3 corners that I have left and just leave that one corner screw alone and treat it as a cosmetic defect.
Anyway back to the point, anyone had similar problems where the 4 corner screws wouldn't go all the way down?
I looked and it seems like duck didn't include enough screws for the flat acrylic plate. The case screws given to me were all four long and four short which is fine for the other two bottom cases. Flat bottom needs 8 short.
Just some photos..Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/06/93addb4106a9b540e9b1ad9994df9257.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/06/8dd778e0589ef572b7e6b2768f5d0dbd.jpg)
10/10 well done!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/h8U8siZ.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/tRRHEqx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6kFrJFd.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/l6wRcb4.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VwJTgsg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Nv7pOz4.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jD3xgTS.jpg)
Never did I imagine the flat acrylic to look so good. Nice job mang.
10/10 well done!
What camera did you use?
To be fair, I think if someone were to plan on DIY'ing any style of bottom, the clear acrylic wouldn't be the hardest to manage. I mean you could get a piece cut with the right dimensions and rig it up somewhat.Was there another update I missed?
To be fair, I think if someone were to plan on DIY'ing any style of bottom, the clear acrylic wouldn't be the hardest to manage. I mean you could get a piece cut with the right dimensions and rig it up somewhat.Was there another update I missed?
10/10 well done!
What camera did you use?
Nikon D5200 with a Sigma 50MM F1.4EX.
Thanks!
They all look so good! The exposed pcb gives the flat bottom a completely different sex appeal though.. especially for the price pointTo be fair, I think if someone were to plan on DIY'ing any style of bottom, the clear acrylic wouldn't be the hardest to manage. I mean you could get a piece cut with the right dimensions and rig it up somewhat.Was there another update I missed?
Negative. Jut that the flat acrylic plate was the underdog of the bottom plates but it looks great.10/10 well done!
What camera did you use?
Nikon D5200 with a Sigma 50MM F1.4EX.
Thanks!
Do you use an ikea table too? It looks like the same grain/pattern and color as mine, :))
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
It's fairly straight forward when you get the board. When I had my flat acrylic plate there weren't enough small screws in a single pack. The packs you get for the bottom housing consist of 4 long screws, 4 small screws, 10 plate screws, and rubber feet. Maybe the second shipment will address this.
Just a quick question as I've been following this thread quite a bit. Am I correct in assuming that there is no ETA for the second set of shipments? Just wondering.
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I don't believe so, it's just standard procedure for assembling every board. It's also a big help that the all the SMD parts come pre-soldered. If you're having trouble building I suggest you take look some member's build logs, that's how I learned to build my first board. :thumb:
Edit: Oops I think you may mean the case itself and not the board, if so there so there are no instructions listed for that.
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I don't believe so, it's just standard procedure for assembling every board. It's also a big help that the all the SMD parts come pre-soldered. If you're having trouble building I suggest you take look some member's build logs, that's how I learned to build my first board. :thumb:
Edit: Oops I think you may mean the case itself and not the board, if so there so there are no instructions listed for that.
lol yeah, I meant the case. I've done SMD soldering before and it's not that bad. I guess I'll look harder at it when I get my switches and stabs.
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
It's fairly straight forward when you get the board. When I had my flat acrylic plate there weren't enough small screws in a single pack. The packs you get for the bottom housing consist of 4 long screws, 4 small screws, 10 plate screws, and rubber feet. Maybe the second shipment will address this.
What about a guide for the firmware?
If I'm not mistaken Elton said it should be an additional month after the first 30 are shipped.
If I'm not mistaken Elton said it should be an additional month after the first 30 are shipped.
Oh I thought that only applied to those who were in the first 30 but didn't get into the original shipment.
The first 30 will be shipped soon. The rest will follow after a few weeks.
Tracking #s are updated for some.. Due to some problems manufacturing the acrylic angled bottom casings, there weren't many available to ship hence the mixed of order in shipping.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
It's about another month for the rest to be ready to ship.
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I don't believe so, it's just standard procedure for assembling every board. It's also a big help that the all the SMD parts come pre-soldered. If you're having trouble building I suggest you take look some member's build logs, that's how I learned to build my first board. :thumb:
Edit: Oops I think you may mean the case itself and not the board, if so there so there are no instructions listed for that.
lol yeah, I meant the case. I've done SMD soldering before and it's not that bad. I guess I'll look harder at it when I get my switches and stabs.
Thanks for the write-up
Does it come flashed with basic firmware?
Thanks for the write-up
Does it come flashed with basic firmware?
Yep. You should be happily typing after your switches are soldered.
waiting for the next 30 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
waiting for the next 30 :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
yes patiently
Question for anyone with an ALPs Orion v2!
To the best of my knowledge I have assembled my Orion correctly, and when I plug it in, all the LEDs come online but I can't get it to type. Are there any additional steps to getting the ALPs PCB working?
Question for anyone with an ALPs Orion v2!
To the best of my knowledge I have assembled my Orion correctly, and when I plug it in, all the LEDs come online but I can't get it to type. Are there any additional steps to getting the ALPs PCB working?
Question for anyone with an ALPs Orion v2!
To the best of my knowledge I have assembled my Orion correctly, and when I plug it in, all the LEDs come online but I can't get it to type. Are there any additional steps to getting the ALPs PCB working?
LEDs fully lit:
(Attachment Link)
I hope everyone gets their build issues sorted quickly so they can enjoy this nice piece of kit.
LEDs fully lit:
(Attachment Link)
I hope everyone gets their build issues sorted quickly so they can enjoy this nice piece of kit.
Looks like a board from the underworld >:D
Question for anyone with an ALPs Orion v2!
To the best of my knowledge I have assembled my Orion correctly, and when I plug it in, all the LEDs come online but I can't get it to type. Are there any additional steps to getting the ALPs PCB working?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=2702787&mid=board_sw
Here are the instructions.
I saw a lot of people on KBDlab having Brass inserts for their Orion V2. Were they not a part of our Version or am I the only one who doesnt have one?
I saw a lot of people on KBDlab having Brass inserts for their Orion V2. Were they not a part of our Version or am I the only one who doesnt have one?
I think those were custom cut. I approached some local shops to have them cut me inserts but they won't do a one off for a small price.
If anyone has access or the facilities to get one cutting done here is the drawing for the insert.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I saw a lot of people on KBDlab having Brass inserts for their Orion V2. Were they not a part of our Version or am I the only one who doesnt have one?
I think those were custom cut. I approached some local shops to have them cut me inserts but they won't do a one off for a small price.
If anyone has access or the facilities to get one cutting done here is the drawing for the insert.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I might have someone. She and I aren't on really good terms atm but I'll talk to her about it. Is solid brass what people want?
I saw a lot of people on KBDlab having Brass inserts for their Orion V2. Were they not a part of our Version or am I the only one who doesnt have one?
I think those were custom cut. I approached some local shops to have them cut me inserts but they won't do a one off for a small price.
If anyone has access or the facilities to get one cutting done here is the drawing for the insert.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I might have someone. She and I aren't on really good terms atm but I'll talk to her about it. Is solid brass what people want?
I saw a lot of people on KBDlab having Brass inserts for their Orion V2. Were they not a part of our Version or am I the only one who doesnt have one?
I think those were custom cut. I approached some local shops to have them cut me inserts but they won't do a one off for a small price.
If anyone has access or the facilities to get one cutting done here is the drawing for the insert.
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I might have someone. She and I aren't on really good terms atm but I'll talk to her about it. Is solid brass what people want?
if you guys want, I can also contact a local milling shop. How many of you would be interested in the brass inserts?
Interested in brass insert depending on price/shipping.
if you guys want, I can also contact a local milling shop. How many of you would be interested in the brass inserts?
is the alu bottom the only one which works with brass? I'm guessing that's the case
http://imgur.com/a/BTXEC
photos
http://imgur.com/a/BTXEC
photos
Very nice, how come you decided to go without any in-switch LEDs? Usually people like to make sure their Orions can be seen from outer space. :p
The plastic plate feels great on the hands. Nice Orion!
I was almost rear ended by a guy texting and driving. I told you guys I have a higher probability of dying than receiving this keyboard. :'(
I was almost rear ended by a guy texting and driving. I told you guys I have a higher probability of dying than receiving this keyboard. :'(
Reply #1000 though, nice job.
can anyone explain the difference in feel between the 3 plates? Does the acrylic plate have less of a 'ping'?
does anybody else feel the acrylic angled bottom gives the board a strange and disproportional look?
does anybody else feel the acrylic angled bottom gives the board a strange and disproportional look?
Kind of, but it gets so shiney.. Me likes shiney.
But seriously, I'd love to get my hands on a black aluminum bottom instead.
does anybody else feel the acrylic angled bottom gives the board a strange and disproportional look?
does anybody else feel the acrylic angled bottom gives the board a strange and disproportional look?
are you referring to the frontal view when you say it's too tall? if so i definitely agree. but the primary view of a keyboard is from either sides, and to me the full alu bottom look more 'complete' and don't have the tall body/short leg effect that the acry bottom does
LED/lighting capabilities is ofc, a separate discussion entirely
fnzzy's photos
fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)
more color!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)
good look at the 9° angleShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)
you can see my missing screws in this oneShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
What esc key?
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
Day's not over yet.
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
Day's not over yet.
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
Day's not over yet.
This got dark reallll quick
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
you're the most patient being there ever was
:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
Day's not over yet.:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
Day's not over yet.
This got dark reallll quick:thumb: here's to a day of not dying
you're the most patient being there ever was
:)) who will inherit my keyboards?
dumpster?:p
Elton, are you going to sell some acrylic inserts for the v2? :confused:
fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
That is so awesome Fnzzy! Favourite TKL right now.
Do you know if those screw-in feet are for sale somewhere? I might want to pick up a few myself.
i think those feet are non-detachable. are they, fnzzy?
i think those feet are non-detachable. are they, fnzzy?
I'm sure they were screwed into the acrylic piece, I doubt they used any sort of adhesive.
ESC right is from the top SetNumlockState Sets the state of the Numlock, Caps Lock, Scroll Lock
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...100% join it :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
Beautiful. Your pictures are always stunning.fnzzy's photos
I've been summoned!
Added some colorShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/bhcoxq2.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0XBbRc2.jpg)
Afternoon Delight - It's getting dark so fast these days...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/chWHLUs.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mNTX85q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/hw9LBCa.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/jop7RAc.jpg)
More pictures of different keyset combinations to come :))
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
Damn I can't just keep buying Duck boards, I need some variety!
alsoShow Image(http://puu.sh/llkEP/6ca5634be2.jpg)
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
Jesus christ. I think I shed an actual tear looking at those pics.
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
Jesus christ. I think I shed an actual tear looking at those pics.
There are better 75% out there, but damn this one looks quite good as well. :)
So when are the Orion V3's incoming?? I'll wait for those xD
I wonder how different the Orion v3 will be. I mean it has to be different enough to justify a purchase by someone who already has a v1 or v2. If it's just for people who missed out on previous GBs why not do more rounds of the v2? Anyway I am sure Duck has some neat stuff planned.
I wonder how different the Orion v3 will be. I mean it has to be different enough to justify a purchase by someone who already has a v1 or v2. If it's just for people who missed out on previous GBs why not do more rounds of the v2? Anyway I am sure Duck has some neat stuff planned.
The design will probably remain a two-piece design for all future generations of his boards unless Duck thinks of some crazy one-piece design.
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
The design will probably remain a two-piece design for all future generations of his boards unless Duck thinks of some crazy one-piece design.
Make one piece TKL housing. Make slid at the side which you close with an acryllic insert. Slide PCB in and screw onto the bottom part. Put switches from above into the pre-soldered SIP sockets.
:^)
On another topic while we wait for the next batch to ship...
Duck's new 75% anyone....?
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3200082&mid=board_Lsno50Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/082/200/003/33782148115c2fa218153849bb427044.JPG)
There all beautiful boards can't wait for the octagon. Are the indicator leds included?
I heard the new 75% will offer the same options as Orion V2. :eek:
So many options don't know which I like more :p. Which leds should I buy for the indicators?
So many options don't know which I like more :p. Which leds should I buy for the indicators?
For the Orion v2 I put together for the ever-so-awesome rainb1ood, I used 2x4x5mm LEDs, as those were the most colorful I had on hand. Can confirm that autoswitching 2 pin RGB LED work on the indicator lights, and they look awesome as an indicator. You can pick up different (RGB) varieties on eBay. I used Aliexpress for the 2x4x5mm LEDs.
But yeah, any kind will work! People tend to favor 1.8mm LEDs since they will not conflict with the downstroke of keys with thick Cherry profile caps like 2x4x5mm LEDs can. I'd recommend them honestly. I'm lucky I use SA on my Octagon, because the LEDs did create problems when I used them with my Gateron PBT set.
Any idea when the second batch will ship?
Any idea when the second batch will ship?
I was told a month after the 1st batch was shipped
Glorious..
What bottom though??
Looks awesome dude!Glorious..
What bottom though??
:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0eg2zAg.jpg)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/6mjcFoW.jpg)
Just one for now.
anyone have pictures of the angled acrylic bottom?
anyone have pictures of the angled acrylic bottom?
Here's some pictures from my build log for rainb1ood.
The acrylic bottom is super cool and very hefty, imo. Solid. :)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/f4oPfzN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2VwRlPh.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AocyaZi.jpg)
Sorry, I know my camera sucks. :P
Wow E2E, very nice. I may need to contact you for my own build since I don't really want to chance this board's PCB with my first soldering experience. Mine looks to be the exact same build as rainb1ood's.
Looks good, I definitely know what I'm getting on the Octagon now can't wait.
How do the zealios feel on an acrylic plate?
Glorious..
What bottom though??
:DShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/0eg2zAg.jpg)
Sad I missed out on this GB. Any idea when/if the next round will be.
Sad I missed out on this GB. Any idea when/if the next round will be.
Maximum brightness automatic control of the switch LED and RGB LED
In the 500mA of USB 2.0 switch with LED status lights, effects, conditions, and automatically controlling the brightness of the colors of the RGB
If the switch LED except for the bypass mode and multi-LED disabled
It can affect the brightness of RGB when the bypass mode. (Full LED OFF switch at the maximum, full ON, minimum brightness)
Bypass mode only affects switch LED mode.
The maximum power setting
LED as the ability to set the maximum current value available in the (RGB included),
All responsibility for the operation and fault when setting its functions are attributed to your own.
For a USB output current of the devices used (PC, etc.), if you only set generous.
Example) lights up the entire bypass switch LED (LED multi-use) to secure an RGB LED brightness in the state.
> Setting
After entering control mode,
SCM Enter, enter,
Pressing a number from 500 to 900 slowly (base 500)
Control mode, press (Save)
Control mode is exited with ESC
Using the event of default after reset operational errors or dead 500
Keyboard LED LED Down key and then press the Stop recognized
After changing power settings
Any idea when the second batch will ship?
I was told a month after the 1st batch was shipped
Are the angled acrylic bottoms coming with this shipment, or is that a separate shipment? Gotta say, someone really dropped the ball on those angled acrylic.
Any idea when the second batch will ship?
I was told a month after the 1st batch was shipped
Are the angled acrylic bottoms coming with this shipment, or is that a separate shipment? Gotta say, someone really dropped the ball on those angled acrylic.
Yeah, everything is going to shipped together. Makes no sense in shipping separately as that will add cost and time (packaging and shipping twice). You won't find a better acrylic bottom than this hence the tough QC on them and thus took much longer to produce. I'd imagine they wasted more money and time trying to produce them.
I'd like to know what Control Mode, Key lock, Push lock, Change lock, LED bypass, etc. does
I've been reading this translated text over and over too and trying to understand:Code: [Select]Maximum brightness automatic control of the switch LED and RGB LED
In the 500mA of USB 2.0 switch with LED status lights, effects, conditions, and automatically controlling the brightness of the colors of the RGB
If the switch LED except for the bypass mode and multi-LED disabled
It can affect the brightness of RGB when the bypass mode. (Full LED OFF switch at the maximum, full ON, minimum brightness)
Bypass mode only affects switch LED mode.
The maximum power setting
LED as the ability to set the maximum current value available in the (RGB included),
All responsibility for the operation and fault when setting its functions are attributed to your own.
For a USB output current of the devices used (PC, etc.), if you only set generous.
Example) lights up the entire bypass switch LED (LED multi-use) to secure an RGB LED brightness in the state.
> Setting
After entering control mode,
SCM Enter, enter,
Pressing a number from 500 to 900 slowly (base 500)
Control mode, press (Save)
Control mode is exited with ESC
Using the event of default after reset operational errors or dead 500
Keyboard LED LED Down key and then press the Stop recognized
After changing power settings
I'd like to know what Control Mode, Key lock, Push lock, Change lock, LED bypass, etc. does
I've been reading this translated text over and over too and trying to understand:Code: [Select]Maximum brightness automatic control of the switch LED and RGB LED
In the 500mA of USB 2.0 switch with LED status lights, effects, conditions, and automatically controlling the brightness of the colors of the RGB
If the switch LED except for the bypass mode and multi-LED disabled
It can affect the brightness of RGB when the bypass mode. (Full LED OFF switch at the maximum, full ON, minimum brightness)
Bypass mode only affects switch LED mode.
The maximum power setting
LED as the ability to set the maximum current value available in the (RGB included),
All responsibility for the operation and fault when setting its functions are attributed to your own.
For a USB output current of the devices used (PC, etc.), if you only set generous.
Example) lights up the entire bypass switch LED (LED multi-use) to secure an RGB LED brightness in the state.
> Setting
After entering control mode,
SCM Enter, enter,
Pressing a number from 500 to 900 slowly (base 500)
Control mode, press (Save)
Control mode is exited with ESC
Using the event of default after reset operational errors or dead 500
Keyboard LED LED Down key and then press the Stop recognized
After changing power settings
Wish I could help you out. That translation pains me too. =(
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_Lsno50&document_srl=3208312
WHAT IS THISShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/1223e0148468551bdd73272092c321c0.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0f8164cf2f161d9b512b4d36e2110e58.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0e4c122dae33dfcedc3a1a61b00bc351.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/321d33e9228b3c5e74d1dff34035d71c.JPG)
Teaser Pic :thumb:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/771/22819084157_e504f3e9ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ALrLHt)
Orion v2 w/ OTD Red Alert 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ALrLHt) by Steve N (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137225850@N04/), on Flickr
Teaser Pic :thumb:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/771/22819084157_e504f3e9ec_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/ALrLHt)
Orion v2 w/ OTD Red Alert 2 (https://flic.kr/p/ALrLHt) by Steve N (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137225850@N04/), on Flickr
Nice board. I was looking through your pictures, did you put those sip sockets in for the indicator leds or did they come installed with the pcb?
do we have an eta on the Octagon and the estimated turn around time for it?
do we have an eta on the Octagon and the estimated turn around time for it?
I'm hoping it's not too soon. My wallet is going to commit sudoku at this rate. I'd be happy if it's at the end of January or start of February.
do we have an eta on the Octagon and the estimated turn around time for it?
I'm hoping it's not too soon. My wallet is going to commit sudoku at this rate. I'd be happy if it's at the end of January or start of February.
haha ya I keep buying stuff instead of saving for this GB. I think though I'm going to follow you and go with the red case and purchase the Coke JTK set to match.
Anytime I try to save the keymap .hex file I get a runtime error, anybody else experiencing this?
Anytime I try to save the keymap .hex file I get a runtime error, anybody else experiencing this?
Yeah, this is a common issue with the 02D software, I think.
Create a text file and rename it whatever you want, but change the extension to .hex
Then create your keymap and save it over that file.
In otherwords, you need to have a dummy file to save keymaps. O2D trends to screw up if you try to create a new file.
When will be the rest be shipped? I am hoping this to arrive before Christmas :blank:
I was finally able to flash the board with a hex file that was to made to my liking. Once you get everything done this board is amazing, a little confusing learning how to use the keymapper and flash the board but it didn't take too long.Yeah I had the same issues with the duck eagle
When will be the rest be shipped? I am hoping this to arrive before Christmas :blank:I think next month :mad: :mad: :mad:
When will be the rest be shipped? I am hoping this to arrive before Christmas :blank:I think next month :mad: :mad: :mad:
You're the worst! Just. The. Worst.
Your board looks amazing... sigh.
You're the worst! Just. The. Worst.
Your board looks amazing... sigh.
:p, at least you know you're board will be nothing but perfect when it comes. I'm more of a fan of the aluminum bottom than the acrylic, the plastic plate also gives a beautiful illumination under the caps.
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/077a5a0ca58b2ad36462f15f76a81d64.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/8d664fba16ed66f1996a7dafab60e764.jpg)
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/077a5a0ca58b2ad36462f15f76a81d64.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/8d664fba16ed66f1996a7dafab60e764.jpg)
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/077a5a0ca58b2ad36462f15f76a81d64.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/23/8d664fba16ed66f1996a7dafab60e764.jpg)
She's a beaut! :thumb: Love the all black look of your boards, man.
Also, yeah... Thanks to expenditures, I'm likely only going to get the aluminum bottom for my Octagon v2 instead of all three. Also partially because I can see myself thinking it's a cool idea to swap out at will but quickly realizing it's a pain in the ass to undo and refasten all the screws every time I want to change the bottom. Plus, the 11 degree incline goes perfect with my Lightpad and wrist rest, nooot to meniton the fact I have a spare set of side insert wedges that are just waiting for that alu bottom. :)
Anytime I try to save the keymap .hex file I get a runtime error, anybody else experiencing this?
Anytime I try to save the keymap .hex file I get a runtime error, anybody else experiencing this?
yes. It is driving me ape**** crazy! I'll try the save file trick with a blank file. Damn runtime errors!!!
She's a beaut! :thumb: Love the all black look of your boards, man.
I love it! so stealthy!
Whie you're waiting, here's a pic of the acrylic angled bottom. :thumb:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/639/23249688155_5e69c98b32_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BquJhk)
Orion v2 Acrylic Bottom 1 (https://flic.kr/p/BquJhk) by Steve N (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137225850@N04/), on Flickr
Whie you're waiting, here's a pic of the acrylic angled bottom. :thumb:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/639/23249688155_5e69c98b32_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/BquJhk)
Orion v2 Acrylic Bottom 1 (https://flic.kr/p/BquJhk) by Steve N (https://www.flickr.com/photos/137225850@N04/), on Flickr
Makes me wish I got the WKL top
Progress so far :)Looks awesome! I'd trade you bottoms lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WK19wPg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zg94xvk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0ZG72L.jpg)
The work is being done by dorkvader.
Someone sell me your flat acrylic bottom!
Progress so far :)Looks awesome! I'd trade you bottoms lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WK19wPg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zg94xvk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0ZG72L.jpg)
The work is being done by dorkvader.
Someone sell me your flat acrylic bottom!
I know that feel lolProgress so far :)Looks awesome! I'd trade you bottoms lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WK19wPg.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/zg94xvk.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/r0ZG72L.jpg)
The work is being done by dorkvader.
Someone sell me your flat acrylic bottom!
But I want both bottoms ;_;
There were 4 orders that was shipped out on Monday that was supposed to be in the first batch as well.
They were:
Tuantruong
Laguar
Sed8op8
lionblinds
I have updated the tracking in the order list.
There were 4 orders that was shipped out on Monday that was supposed to be in the first batch as well.
They were:
Tuantruong
Laguar
Sed8op8
lionblinds
I have updated the tracking in the order list.
Finally had chance to unpack my order, and wow. Super impressive
Unfortunately my flat acrylic bottom came out of the packaging super scratched up. It was packaged quite well, so I won't really know how it got scratched this badly if it happened in transit but...
Hard to picture:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q2CfwiQh.jpg)
Finally had chance to unpack my order, and wow. Super impressive
Unfortunately my flat acrylic bottom came out of the packaging super scratched up. It was packaged quite well, so I won't really know how it got scratched this badly if it happened in transit but...
Hard to picture:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Q2CfwiQh.jpg)
Did you remove the protective film? AFAIK it should have come with that, as did the inserts for the aluminum bottom.
never getting it am i? 9months and countingbreh gotta resist selling that spot
never getting it am i? 9months and countingbreh gotta resist selling that spot
never getting it am i? 9months and countingbreh gotta resist selling that spot
I will buy happily
How do I get my hands on these? http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_Lsno50&page=2&document_srl=3230933 (just the feet)
Somebody halp prease.
never getting it am i? 9months and counting
never getting it am i? 9months and counting
I will buy your flat acrylic bottom if you are open to parting with it :P
How do I order one????? :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:I'd like to know what Control Mode, Key lock, Push lock, Change lock, LED bypass, etc. does
I've been reading this translated text over and over too and trying to understand:Code: [Select]Maximum brightness automatic control of the switch LED and RGB LED
In the 500mA of USB 2.0 switch with LED status lights, effects, conditions, and automatically controlling the brightness of the colors of the RGB
If the switch LED except for the bypass mode and multi-LED disabled
It can affect the brightness of RGB when the bypass mode. (Full LED OFF switch at the maximum, full ON, minimum brightness)
Bypass mode only affects switch LED mode.
The maximum power setting
LED as the ability to set the maximum current value available in the (RGB included),
All responsibility for the operation and fault when setting its functions are attributed to your own.
For a USB output current of the devices used (PC, etc.), if you only set generous.
Example) lights up the entire bypass switch LED (LED multi-use) to secure an RGB LED brightness in the state.
> Setting
After entering control mode,
SCM Enter, enter,
Pressing a number from 500 to 900 slowly (base 500)
Control mode, press (Save)
Control mode is exited with ESC
Using the event of default after reset operational errors or dead 500
Keyboard LED LED Down key and then press the Stop recognized
After changing power settings
Wish I could help you out. That translation pains me too. =(
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_Lsno50&document_srl=3208312
WHAT IS THISShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/1223e0148468551bdd73272092c321c0.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0f8164cf2f161d9b512b4d36e2110e58.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0e4c122dae33dfcedc3a1a61b00bc351.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/321d33e9228b3c5e74d1dff34035d71c.JPG)
Unicorn X3. Great full metal keyboard look but less clumsy. I like it.
There were 4 orders that was shipped out on Monday that was supposed to be in the first batch as well.
They were:
Tuantruong
Laguar
Sed8op8
lionblinds
I have updated the tracking in the order list.
It's also a group buy but was ended. So can not orderHow do I order one????? :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:I'd like to know what Control Mode, Key lock, Push lock, Change lock, LED bypass, etc. does
I've been reading this translated text over and over too and trying to understand:Code: [Select]Maximum brightness automatic control of the switch LED and RGB LED
In the 500mA of USB 2.0 switch with LED status lights, effects, conditions, and automatically controlling the brightness of the colors of the RGB
If the switch LED except for the bypass mode and multi-LED disabled
It can affect the brightness of RGB when the bypass mode. (Full LED OFF switch at the maximum, full ON, minimum brightness)
Bypass mode only affects switch LED mode.
The maximum power setting
LED as the ability to set the maximum current value available in the (RGB included),
All responsibility for the operation and fault when setting its functions are attributed to your own.
For a USB output current of the devices used (PC, etc.), if you only set generous.
Example) lights up the entire bypass switch LED (LED multi-use) to secure an RGB LED brightness in the state.
> Setting
After entering control mode,
SCM Enter, enter,
Pressing a number from 500 to 900 slowly (base 500)
Control mode, press (Save)
Control mode is exited with ESC
Using the event of default after reset operational errors or dead 500
Keyboard LED LED Down key and then press the Stop recognized
After changing power settings
Wish I could help you out. That translation pains me too. =(
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_Lsno50&document_srl=3208312
WHAT IS THISShow Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/1223e0148468551bdd73272092c321c0.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0f8164cf2f161d9b512b4d36e2110e58.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/0e4c122dae33dfcedc3a1a61b00bc351.JPG)Show Image(http://kbdlab.co.kr/files/attach/images/340/312/208/003/321d33e9228b3c5e74d1dff34035d71c.JPG)
Unicorn X3. Great full metal keyboard look but less clumsy. I like it.
When will mine be shipped? :-X :-X :-X :-X
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
What is this best 75% you speak of? :P
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
What is this best 75% you speak of? :P
Leeku's 75% of the Compact SQ
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
What is this best 75% you speak of? :P
Leeku's 75% of the Compact SQ
What is this 75% version of the SQ? I only see the 1800-style version.
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
What is this best 75% you speak of? :P
Leeku's 75% of the Compact SQ
What is this 75% version of the SQ? I only see the 1800-style version.
It hasn't been released yet, in the SQ's group buy he was discussing that the 75% is planned for the next group buy. He has several layouts that he is planning on selling.
Is it sad to think that even though I haven't gotten the Orion yet, I know part of my money has already been claimed by the Octagon V2?
Is it sad to think that even though I haven't gotten the Orion yet, I know part of my money has already been claimed by the Octagon V2?
Oh, what are you planning to get for the Octagon v2? I certainly plan on getting a brass weight for the board if we can get a good source for them in the states, someone who can make Orion and Octagon brass weights. :D
I'm so glad that I'm really not "turned on" by TKL layouts, because there are far too many awesome TKLs coming out all the time. Strangely, I feel satisfied just hanging with the Octagon, even if other 75% boards come out. Definitely my happy place. I love the Duck boards.
I think it's the 11 degree angle and all the flashy lights. 02D is pretty intuitive too, if not just a little bit quirky.
Is it sad to think that even though I haven't gotten the Orion yet, I know part of my money has already been claimed by the Octagon V2?
Oh, what are you planning to get for the Octagon v2? I certainly plan on getting a brass weight for the board if we can get a good source for them in the states, someone who can make Orion and Octagon brass weights. :D
I'm so glad that I'm really not "turned on" by TKL layouts, because there are far too many awesome TKLs coming out all the time. Strangely, I feel satisfied just hanging with the Octagon, even if other 75% boards come out. Definitely my happy place. I love the Duck boards.
I think it's the 11 degree angle and all the flashy lights. 02D is pretty intuitive too, if not just a little bit quirky.
Im not sure yet... I think you may have convinced me to try Alps on one of the two Duck boards... :)
I'm so glad that I'm really not "turned on" by TKL layoutsme neither, though yutski's boards almost managed it. i still think wkl is the best layout aesthetics wise, but i like 75% for the compactness and the novelty
Octagon v2 is a two piece design? Now I really want it!
But you already have the best 75% coming :(
What is this best 75% you speak of? :P
Leeku's 75% of the Compact SQ
What is this 75% version of the SQ? I only see the 1800-style version.
It hasn't been released yet, in the SQ's group buy he was discussing that the 75% is planned for the next group buy. He has several layouts that he is planning on selling.
Gotcha. Thanks for the clarification. I'm wondering what it'll look like. I remember a 75% PCB being offered as part of the interest check Meiosis hosted a while back (one that ended up being suspended for a while), so I'm guessing that a case is being designed around it. So likely something like the SQ and RedScarf III, with an aluminum top and acrylic bottom?
Sounds tempting, but I'm not the biggest fans of those diffuse bottoms.
so update elton?Also have this question and waiting for batch 2 ship out
He's been good with the updates so rest easy. If anything I'd be worried about a board being shipped out during the holidays and tired workers dropping your box.
Just an update, I received my Orion a while ago. November 4th.
Have not gotten the Alps yet for it...orange would be best XDJust an update, I received my Orion a while ago. November 4th.
blue alps?
Have not gotten the Alps yet for it...orange would be best XDJust an update, I received my Orion a while ago. November 4th.
blue alps?
Have not gotten the Alps yet for it...orange would be best XDJust an update, I received my Orion a while ago. November 4th.
blue alps?
Check to see if you received the right screws. I think you're supposed to use 8 short screws but my flat piece came with 4 short and 4 long for the angled and aluminum bottom.
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck every body ;)
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck every body ;)
Red Scarf 84?
Awesome, well hopefully the Octagon v2 GB happens not too long after, but I can respect if Elton would rather wait to be sure everyone gets their Orion v2 safely before starting. I guess we'll have to wait and see, but I'm ready!
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck every body ;)
Red Scarf 84?
Awesome, well hopefully the Octagon v2 GB happens not too long after, but I can respect if Elton would rather wait to be sure everyone gets their Orion v2 safely before starting. I guess we'll have to wait and see, but I'm ready!
BminiX2 PCB, Housing designed by VNMK team, assembled by me ;)
i still wait 3 DIY kits of Orion V2 :(
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck every body ;)
Red Scarf 84?
Awesome, well hopefully the Octagon v2 GB happens not too long after, but I can respect if Elton would rather wait to be sure everyone gets their Orion v2 safely before starting. I guess we'll have to wait and see, but I'm ready!
BminiX2 PCB, Housing designed by VNMK team, assembled by me ;)
i still wait 3 DIY kits of Orion V2 :(
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck every body ;)
Red Scarf 84?
Awesome, well hopefully the Octagon v2 GB happens not too long after, but I can respect if Elton would rather wait to be sure everyone gets their Orion v2 safely before starting. I guess we'll have to wait and see, but I'm ready!
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck everybody ;)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/127
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck everybody ;)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/127
Octagon V2 will open GB by Elton on GH, Korea GB will open at Monday 7 Dec 2015 (Maybe). Good Luck everybody ;)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/127
Damn that's like now :eek:
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
That's actually not that quickly if you think about it. As long as you're prepared for the buy you should have plenty of time to get in.
The second sold out in less than a half-hour, though!
The second sold out in less than a half-hour, though!
Yeah, and I was at work lol :( luckily I'm buying one though :thumb:
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
That's actually not that quickly if you think about it. As long as you're prepared for the buy you should have plenty of time to get in.
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
That's actually not that quickly if you think about it. As long as you're prepared for the buy you should have plenty of time to get in.
It's not like you can predict when GB threads pop up, though. AFAIK they need to be approved by mods and that basically happens whenever. "being prepared" = sit at your computer and F5 every five minutes? the thread notification emails can be hours late.
Anyone know how quickly the spots filled up for the Orion when the GB started?
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
That's actually not that quickly if you think about it. As long as you're prepared for the buy you should have plenty of time to get in.
It's not like you can predict when GB threads pop up, though. AFAIK they need to be approved by mods and that basically happens whenever. "being prepared" = sit at your computer and F5 every five minutes? the thread notification emails can be hours late.
Took some photos today.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/49fea80b1c7791707d0f2b5e9143a9b7.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/29cd05a0663beddadbdaa5ac29e3bb5c.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/d8ceb09b834b3d49eab282a8d9b5bf34.jpg)
Assembled by E3E.
OG cherry with tsangan kit from SP from a GB years ago. I need a proper tsangan kit!Took some photos today.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/49fea80b1c7791707d0f2b5e9143a9b7.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/29cd05a0663beddadbdaa5ac29e3bb5c.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/d8ceb09b834b3d49eab282a8d9b5bf34.jpg)
Assembled by E3E.
Is this jtk mixed with OG cherry
OG cherry with tsangan kit from SP from a GB years ago. I need a proper tsangan kit!Took some photos today.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/49fea80b1c7791707d0f2b5e9143a9b7.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/29cd05a0663beddadbdaa5ac29e3bb5c.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/d8ceb09b834b3d49eab282a8d9b5bf34.jpg)
Assembled by E3E.
Is this jtk mixed with OG cherry
OG cherry with tsangan kit from SP from a GB years ago. I need a proper tsangan kit!Took some photos today.Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/49fea80b1c7791707d0f2b5e9143a9b7.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/29cd05a0663beddadbdaa5ac29e3bb5c.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/06/d8ceb09b834b3d49eab282a8d9b5bf34.jpg)
Assembled by E3E.
Is this jtk mixed with OG cherry
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
I placed my order like an hour and a half after and got spot 23
If I remember correctly the first 30 were gone within the first couple hours
I placed my order like an hour and a half after and got spot 23
I jumped in 5.5 hours after the thread start and ended up #39.
No update yet. I usually don't post anything if I don't have anything new..as for the start of GH's Oct. V2 GB, I may post it up over the weekend or once the 2nd batch are shipped. I still need some confirmation first.
No update yet. I usually don't post anything if I don't have anything new..as for the start of GH's Oct. V2 GB, I may post it up over the weekend or once the 2nd batch are shipped. I still need some confirmation first.
No update yet. I usually don't post anything if I don't have anything new..as for the start of GH's Oct. V2 GB, I may post it up over the weekend or once the 2nd batch are shipped. I still need some confirmation first.
Sound good. Prepare your wallets.
No update yet. I usually don't post anything if I don't have anything new..as for the start of GH's Oct. V2 GB, I may post it up over the weekend or once the 2nd batch are shipped. I still need some confirmation first.
I haven't posted anything keyboard related in a while so...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b1owP6Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BRSezF6.jpg)
I haven't posted anything keyboard related in a while so...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b1owP6Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BRSezF6.jpg)
I haven't posted anything keyboard related in a while so...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b1owP6Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BRSezF6.jpg)
Your pictures are like torture for those of us that haven't received theirs yet :p
Quick question. The lighting showing on the keys is that bleeding over from the side LEDs? Or do you have a few LEDs on certain keys?
I haven't posted anything keyboard related in a while so...Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/b1owP6Q.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BRSezF6.jpg)
Your pictures are like torture for those of us that haven't received theirs yet :p
Quick question. The lighting showing on the keys is that bleeding over from the side LEDs? Or do you have a few LEDs on certain keys?
If anyone is thinking about dropping their order, let me know.Join the club. I have an order but would love to get a second one with an aluminum bottom
I really want to buy a winkey/MX version (preferably with the full Alu case)
Gah I keep seeing this thread getting bumped and my heart jumps thinking there's an update everytime.
:'(
same im tired of waitingGah I keep seeing this thread getting bumped and my heart jumps thinking there's an update everytime.
:'(
I know. Want it so bad have all the parts too....
same im tired of waitingGah I keep seeing this thread getting bumped and my heart jumps thinking there's an update everytime.
:'(
I know. Want it so bad have all the parts too....
same im tired of waitingGah I keep seeing this thread getting bumped and my heart jumps thinking there's an update everytime.
:'(
I know. Want it so bad have all the parts too....
is that why you make fire?
:llama:
:llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama:
:llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama:
jesus ****!
:llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama:
jesus ****!
you thought it was an update :p
:llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama:
jesus ****!
you thought it was an update :p
BUT IT WAS ME :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama: :llama:
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hell yeah. Appleonama can stop now!
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hell yeah. Appleonama can stop now!
FINALLY ! I CAN START PUTTING SIP SOCKETS ON MY SWITCHES
BURN ONE MORE CLACK IN CELEBRATION?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BNua6Q.jpg)
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hell yeah. Appleonama can stop now!
FINALLY ! I CAN START PUTTING SIP SOCKETS ON MY SWITCHES
BURN ONE MORE CLACK IN CELEBRATION?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BNua6Q.jpg)
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hell yeah. Appleonama can stop now!
FINALLY ! I CAN START PUTTING SIP SOCKETS ON MY SWITCHES
BURN ONE MORE CLACK IN CELEBRATION?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BNua6Q.jpg)
Why not just send them to me and let me burn them with my love
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
Hell yeah. Appleonama can stop now!
FINALLY ! I CAN START PUTTING SIP SOCKETS ON MY SWITCHES
BURN ONE MORE CLACK IN CELEBRATION?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3BNua6Q.jpg)
Hey guys. Good news! Finally the rest of the orders are packed and ready to be picked up tomorrow (tonight if you're in NA). I'll get the tracking up in the list once I get them. Probably won't get it by Christmas though....:(
So does that mean Octagon V2 is on its way soon? If I miss that GB I will burn a lot more than some clacks..
This is for the remaining orders in the first round right?
This is for the remaining orders in the first round right?
These are for the rest of the orders that hasn't been shipped yet.
Trackings #s are up now except for one that needed to be shipped domestically to another Korean member.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
This is for the remaining orders in the first round right?
These are for the rest of the orders that hasn't been shipped yet.
Trackings #s are up now except for one that needed to be shipped domestically to another Korean member.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
:thumb:
awesome
This is for the remaining orders in the first round right?
These are for the rest of the orders that hasn't been shipped yet.
Trackings #s are up now except for one that needed to be shipped domestically to another Korean member.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jrMbDe35hC3IshgaSnp90YyeR8AT3GJw1ozidWtn4qQ/pubhtml?gid=702353801&single=true
Delivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
Delivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
Delivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Delivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
Delivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
can't wait to break out my full frame for this glorious board. hyperfuse, purple clack
what keyset are you usingDelivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
can't wait to break out my full frame for this glorious board. hyperfuse, purple clack
I have a full frame, and 2 purple clacks, just at other address :( Hyperfuse is meh
what keyset are you usingDelivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
can't wait to break out my full frame for this glorious board. hyperfuse, purple clack
I have a full frame, and 2 purple clacks, just at other address :( Hyperfuse is meh
what keyset are you usingDelivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
can't wait to break out my full frame for this glorious board. hyperfuse, purple clack
I have a full frame, and 2 purple clacks, just at other address :( Hyperfuse is meh
SGi caps for my alps pcb :p For the mx one, I'll use OG cherry or OG Dolch with GMK mods, or OG wob with GMK mods.
what keyset are you usingDelivered to Destination AirportKorea Post
LOS ANGELES
might get mine sometime next week :cool:
mine is in Delaware OuO
So close but yet so far. :(
I can't wait until you get the board and upload some shots, I'm curious as to what everybody is planning for their Orion v2. :thumb:
Thanks! Only got the point and shoot right now, but it'll do
can't wait to break out my full frame for this glorious board. hyperfuse, purple clack
I have a full frame, and 2 purple clacks, just at other address :( Hyperfuse is meh
SGi caps for my alps pcb :p For the mx one, I'll use OG cherry or OG Dolch with GMK mods, or OG wob with GMK mods.
Good choice, I've been wanting to grab a set of OG caps. I currently having the OTD Red Alert on mine, first time ever using DCS and I'm actually quite fond of it. My original plan was to the GMK Hyperfuse set and the three matching Boopers that I have, but I'm still waiting to get my hyperfuse set in the mail.
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
When did yours ship out? Mine just got on a plane in the 24th
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
When did yours ship out? Mine just got on a plane in the 24th
23rd at 8:30PM just got delivered. Opening soon
Oh **** now mine is coming on the 29th!!Expected Delivery Day:Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
When did yours ship out? Mine just got on a plane in the 24th
23rd at 8:30PM just got delivered. Opening soon
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
Expected Delivery Day: Tuesday, December 29, 2015
^-^
Mine is at local post office !!!!
wow that sucks you get yours before i do >:D
Show Image(http://imgur.com/fl3bNMS.jpg)
Poor you, what's wrong with this ?
Status: Unsuccessful delivery
Nooooooo! WTH! >:D >:D >:D >:D
That was the status of my tracking no. Reason was blank so no reason was given as to why the delivery was unsuccessful.Poor you, what's wrong with this ?
Status: Unsuccessful delivery
Nooooooo! WTH! >:D >:D >:D >:D
Congratulation :thumb: :thumb:That was the status of my tracking no. Reason was blank so no reason was given as to why the delivery was unsuccessful.Poor you, what's wrong with this ?
Status: Unsuccessful delivery
Nooooooo! WTH! >:D >:D >:D >:D
Luckely enough I just got home and a delivery notice was left in my mailbox. The package is waiting on me at the post office :-)
I got worried the package was misplaced or similar. I've been very unlucky with packages lately.
I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
Got it! I think this keyboard was speaking to me, I woke up just in time to hear USPS drive up to my door and I opened the door as the postman was putting the missed you slip on my door. :eek:
Even got it a day earlier than the expected ship date :cool:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/U5dZ7oh.jpg)
I was so excited to put this together while I was expecting it, but now that it's in my hands I'm kinda nervous about assembling it haha
Once again many thanks to Elton and here's hoping the Octagon V2 buy comes soon :thumb:
I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
I did. Plus OG weller tips and flux
I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
I did. Plus OG weller tips and flux
Did you get rosin free solder? If you got the kester that everyone uses (kester 44 represent!) it has a rosin core that eliminates the need for flux AFAIK.
I'm gonna try and get my board finished tonight, thankfully I don't have any work tomorrow so I can work through the night :p
Also, ~7 months of waiting and I wait til the day I get the keyboard to put in sip sockets... I hate my procrastinating ways.
I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
I did. Plus OG weller tips and flux
Did you get rosin free solder? If you got the kester that everyone uses (kester 44 represent!) it has a rosin core that eliminates the need for flux AFAIK.
I'm gonna try and get my board finished tonight, thankfully I don't have any work tomorrow so I can work through the night :p
Also, ~7 months of waiting and I wait til the day I get the keyboard to put in sip sockets... I hate my procrastinating ways.
You Should have done 1 switch a day. Would have made the wait a little easier!
Flux is always good to have on hand because you never know if you have to reflow a joint.
Same doing sip sockets atm before it arrives tomorrow. This process takes me about 2-4 hours man I hate it.I'm getting my solder tomorrowhope you got that kester butter solder
I did. Plus OG weller tips and flux
Did you get rosin free solder? If you got the kester that everyone uses (kester 44 represent!) it has a rosin core that eliminates the need for flux AFAIK.
I'm gonna try and get my board finished tonight, thankfully I don't have any work tomorrow so I can work through the night :p
Also, ~7 months of waiting and I wait til the day I get the keyboard to put in sip sockets... I hate my procrastinating ways.
6 switches lubed and sipped :)
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
Very nice! I see you sip-socketed your switches but didn't add LEDs, how come?
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
Very nice! I see you sip-socketed your switches but didn't add LEDs, how come?
Thanks! Can finally join the kustom club ;D
I prefer keyboards with no backlight usually. I think out of the 10 keyboards I own only 1 has full backlighting. With that said I put in sip sockets because I like having the option to go full out with the lighting if the mood hits me. Better to put them in now than desoldering the board and putting them in later :p
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
Glorious, simply glorious. I love the way the RGB shines up through the Zealios.
Hotswapping is always a good option, even if you never use the functionality yourself. Whether it's for switches or LEDs. I've SIP socketed ALL of my MX boards and it's very nice to switch up the colors at will if needed.
Oooh, that aluminum on aluminum though. I CANNOT wait for the Octagon v2, where I'll finally pick a more subtle color as opposed to my overall favorite case color, red. It's super hard to find a set that really gels well with a red case, but it's hard to pass up that fiery hue. Ahh, so good.
This time I'm going to go for silver top and blue grey bottom! :thumb:
Did you end up getting two different bottom halves, or do you have TWO Orion v2s? :O
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
Glorious, simply glorious. I love the way the RGB shines up through the Zealios.
Hotswapping is always a good option, even if you never use the functionality yourself. Whether it's for switches or LEDs. I've SIP socketed ALL of my MX boards and it's very nice to switch up the colors at will if needed.
Oooh, that aluminum on aluminum though. I CANNOT wait for the Octagon v2, where I'll finally pick a more subtle color as opposed to my overall favorite case color, red. It's super hard to find a set that really gels well with a red case, but it's hard to pass up that fiery hue. Ahh, so good.
This time I'm going to go for silver top and blue grey bottom! :thumb:
Did you end up getting two different bottom halves, or do you have TWO Orion v2s? :O
If you're wondering if it's possible to have two different colored halves for a single order when you go for the octagon then yes you should be able to do that. My orders were like that and they came out perfectly. I say should because you never know if duck will change that option in the future.
3 including Christmas day
sweet man! Just made me realize I need to get order a usb cable :))
Yeah sip-socketing is always a good idea even if you don't like backlighting it helps if you ever need to sell the board. I love backlighting myself so I, the Orion v2 is meant to light like the sun. :p
Well that's mildly worrying, then.
Fingers crossed someone just forgot to update tracking data and it's on its way.
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
Glorious, simply glorious. I love the way the RGB shines up through the Zealios.
Hotswapping is always a good option, even if you never use the functionality yourself. Whether it's for switches or LEDs. I've SIP socketed ALL of my MX boards and it's very nice to switch up the colors at will if needed.
Oooh, that aluminum on aluminum though. I CANNOT wait for the Octagon v2, where I'll finally pick a more subtle color as opposed to my overall favorite case color, red. It's super hard to find a set that really gels well with a red case, but it's hard to pass up that fiery hue. Ahh, so good.
This time I'm going to go for silver top and blue grey bottom! :thumb:
Did you end up getting two different bottom halves, or do you have TWO Orion v2s? :O
If you're wondering if it's possible to have two different colored halves for a single order when you go for the octagon then yes you should be able to do that. My orders were like that and they came out perfectly. I say should because you never know if duck will change that option in the future.
Oh no, I was asking more so whether or not he bought a few different lowers or actually bought two different Orions to go with the angled acrylic bottom and the aluminum bottom in his imgur album.
Yeah, I'm expecting Duck to leave that option open, especially considering how he had some renders of the Octagon v2 with dual tone color schemes.
6 switches lubed and sipped :)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!i just got off to this amazing we got the same config
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!i just got off to this amazing we got the same config
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
8 months 17 days from placing my order, I now have a working Orion V2 in my hands! What a journey!
Definitely worth the wait! Haven't fiddled around with the keymapping yet (gonna start now) but got it all assembled!
I used 65g tactile Zealios only had 4 switches with the chattering problem but got them fixed up no problem.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Zfr4c7l.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Uf627Zj.png)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qMlQGFN.png)
All in all VERY satisfied with the board! Loving the blue and silver combo too glad I switched over from black :cool:
Thanks Elton and Duck and anyone else invovled :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
And a link to some more pictures I took during the build if anyone is interested ;)
http://imgur.com/a/3xiK2
it here! but I am still not done with my switches... I fell asleep yesterday
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
To make you cherish the board even more once you're done, of course! :thumb:
/me makes a note to buy diodes
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
To make you cherish the board even more once you're done, of course! :thumb:
/me makes a note to buy diodes
Diodes and resistor are a pain, I much prefer spending the extra money to have somebody do them for me. I wish Duck came out with an Alps option, I like his firmware better.
I forgot how stabs go on :rolleyes: anyone can teach me ?
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
To make you cherish the board even more once you're done, of course! :thumb:
/me makes a note to buy diodes
Diodes and resistor are a pain, I much prefer spending the extra money to have somebody do them for me. I wish Duck came out with an Alps option, I like his firmware better.
Why couldnt leekus pcb have diodes preinstalled....Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20151229/fbe27f377b9c3e31f1d398f85cc0f3a5.jpg)
To make you cherish the board even more once you're done, of course! :thumb:
/me makes a note to buy diodes
Diodes and resistor are a pain, I much prefer spending the extra money to have somebody do them for me. I wish Duck came out with an Alps option, I like his firmware better.
Hehe, I've got a potential Alps Orion v2 build lined up for Slushi so I have to be prepared, but SMD isn't so bad!
I've done smd before just sucks that U have to wait for more parts
I've done smd before just sucks that U have to wait for more parts
I hear ya.
Always sucks. I've been accumulating parts for a new (custom watercooling loop) rig for months now.
There's always some **** missing and i have to wait for it.
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orion she is a lookerShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orion she is a lookerShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Img broken
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
Have you tried de-soldering just that switch and seeing if the issue persists? I'm not really sure it could be the firmware after messing around with it a bit, or it could a defective PCB which I sure hope not.
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
Have you tried de-soldering just that switch and seeing if the issue persists? I'm not really sure it could be the firmware after messing around with it a bit, or it could a defective PCB which I sure hope not.
its the switch... once I remover solder from the joints it stopped the print screen. I wonder whats wrong with it. I can't take of the switch since my solder sucker sucks ass. just got this http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011 (http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011) if I kept trying id probably burn the bad off
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
Have you tried de-soldering just that switch and seeing if the issue persists? I'm not really sure it could be the firmware after messing around with it a bit, or it could a defective PCB which I sure hope not.
its the switch... once I remover solder from the joints it stopped the print screen. I wonder whats wrong with it. I can't take of the switch since my solder sucker sucks ass. just got this http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011 (http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011) if I kept trying id probably burn the bad off
Ah at least it's the switch. I have the same solder sucker as well, I find it best if you can not get suck up all the solder the first time to re-solder it, heat up the solder, and then try and get the best seal possible with the solder sucker and then hit the button to suck it up. Sometimes if you leave a little gap it won't completely suck up all the solder, I'm definitely going to invest in a de-soldering station one of these times.
MoreDONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Nice! The TA looks really good on that, makes me want to get a set haha
Are you using zealous by chance? I had a couple chattering issues that made the switches activate before actually going all the way down.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=74807.msg1923515#msg1923515
Used this to fix it though. 100% success rate and didn't have to desolder anything :)
I am using gateron black but I inspected every single switch. I don't think it is a switch problem it seems to be a software issue. Everytime I connect my keyboards it just begins to prt sc multiple times
Have you tried de-soldering just that switch and seeing if the issue persists? I'm not really sure it could be the firmware after messing around with it a bit, or it could a defective PCB which I sure hope not.
its the switch... once I remover solder from the joints it stopped the print screen. I wonder whats wrong with it. I can't take of the switch since my solder sucker sucks ass. just got this http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011 (http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?dd=aKrOoZPHPFjYz6XKVlNrCg%2C%2C&ddc_refnmnt=pfod&ie=UTF8&qid=1451524284&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+sucker&refinements=p_97%3A11292772011) if I kept trying id probably burn the bad off
Ah at least it's the switch. I have the same solder sucker as well, I find it best if you can not get suck up all the solder the first time to re-solder it, heat up the solder, and then try and get the best seal possible with the solder sucker and then hit the button to suck it up. Sometimes if you leave a little gap it won't completely suck up all the solder, I'm definitely going to invest in a de-soldering station one of these times.
burn the pad*
yeah thats good I can live without a print screen for the mean time. yeah I tried to resolder and suck it out but my sucker just sucks. I don't want to burn the pad :( I just remembered my friend has a soldering station! going to take it to him to remove the solder.
do you know how to access fn or the other layers?
Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orion
I wish my diodes could here faster
Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orion
That's not how love at first sight works! :P
I wish my diodes could here faster
Sorry :( If i had known we need them beforehand, you wouldn't had to wait now.
We need diodes? ? ?I wish my diodes could here faster
Sorry :( If i had known we need them beforehand, you wouldn't had to wait now.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gLe3SE9.jpg)
PURDY
We need diodes? ? ?I wish my diodes could here faster
Sorry :( If i had known we need them beforehand, you wouldn't had to wait now.
Confirmed. Ty <3We need diodes? ? ?I wish my diodes could here faster
Sorry :( If i had known we need them beforehand, you wouldn't had to wait now.
Only for alps
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/gLe3SE9.jpg)
PURDY
Damn beautiful! I wish I was able to get my hands on the flat acrylic bottom, I'm sure a lot of people weren't expecting it to look this good. :thumb:
There needs to be pictures in here, since I haven't shared in awhile:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5793/23995949621_4ce521e4fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CyrvPk)
There needs to be pictures in here, since I haven't shared in awhile:
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5793/23995949621_4ce521e4fe_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/CyrvPk)
Anyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
Anyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
Anyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
I had a viper and got everything to work if you wanna pm me I'll try to help
Anyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
Other than Duck's page listing all the functionalities I don't think there is a guide. http://duck0113.tistory.com/124
I'm also more than willing to help out if you want to shoot me a PM, I got mine working rather quickly and like to think that I got the hang of the software by now.
just found http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docxAnyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
Other than Duck's page listing all the functionalities I don't think there is a guide. http://duck0113.tistory.com/124
I'm also more than willing to help out if you want to shoot me a PM, I got mine working rather quickly and like to think that I got the hang of the software by now.
ill try to see if I can get it going
Think I could use a korean version of window in vmware to overcome the arrow keys issuejust found http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docxAnyone have a guide on the keyboard software. I am having trouble getting this thing to work. I was able to get it working on the duck eagle a couple months ago but now I can't get it to work.
Other than Duck's page listing all the functionalities I don't think there is a guide. http://duck0113.tistory.com/124
I'm also more than willing to help out if you want to shoot me a PM, I got mine working rather quickly and like to think that I got the hang of the software by now.
ill try to see if I can get it going
Awesome, I actually didn't know that exists. One thing I forgot that may help, when I was having trouble getting the hex files to save. If you make a txt file first with the same name then it allows you save the hex file over it. I don't know if everybody was experiencing this problem but it occurred for me.
In the octagon thread, there is a workaround with using microsoft app locale. Doesnt work with Windows 10 tho.
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
Mine finally surfaced at the customs today (9 days later).
Just to make sure - it was posted from an individual, right? Not a business?
Asking because individual == i can use the paypal/bank statement as proof of purchase; whereas for a business PoP == invoice.
Mine finally surfaced at the customs today (9 days later).
Just to make sure - it was posted from an individual, right? Not a business?
Asking because individual == i can use the paypal/bank statement as proof of purchase; whereas for a business PoP == invoice.
from memory pretty such it was a person
No says mycnc coShow Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/c030deff953966621a6a11cbea7879cf.jpg)
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
steelwell after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
Which plate do you have?
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
Nothing is worse than soldering up a whole board and then not liking the switches. I can definitely vouch for the 65g Tactile Zealios though, I have those in my Orion and love them, I do however have a plastic plate but that muffles the sound and gives a little more tactility. Best of luck and take your time, don't want to ruin a good PCB. :thumb:
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
Nothing is worse than soldering up a whole board and then not liking the switches. I can definitely vouch for the 65g Tactile Zealios though, I have those in my Orion and love them, I do however have a plastic plate but that muffles the sound and gives a little more tactility. Best of luck and take your time, don't want to ruin a good PCB. :thumb:
yeah I am definitely being very careful with my pcb but dam this solder sucker makes my life much easier.
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
Nothing is worse than soldering up a whole board and then not liking the switches. I can definitely vouch for the 65g Tactile Zealios though, I have those in my Orion and love them, I do however have a plastic plate but that muffles the sound and gives a little more tactility. Best of luck and take your time, don't want to ruin a good PCB. :thumb:
yeah I am definitely being very careful with my pcb but dam this solder sucker makes my life much easier.
Yeah mine has treated me quite well. I had to de-solder both Pok3rs since the LED holes came pre-filled, and then after finishing soldering up one board I saw that Vortex posted that you need to put the LEDs in the opposite polarity of what the PCB says...
well after a couple hours of using lubed gateron blacks I regret them. I think I just prefer tactile switches.
I think I over lubed my switches which made them feel buttery. Anyways I am going to desolder and replace them with 65g zealios
Nothing is worse than soldering up a whole board and then not liking the switches. I can definitely vouch for the 65g Tactile Zealios though, I have those in my Orion and love them, I do however have a plastic plate but that muffles the sound and gives a little more tactility. Best of luck and take your time, don't want to ruin a good PCB. :thumb:
yeah I am definitely being very careful with my pcb but dam this solder sucker makes my life much easier.
Yeah mine has treated me quite well. I had to de-solder both Pok3rs since the LED holes came pre-filled, and then after finishing soldering up one board I saw that Vortex posted that you need to put the LEDs in the opposite polarity of what the PCB says...
oh man that sucks... The only issue I am having is getting the solder out of the tiny led holes. The solder becomes solid way too quick.
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
pretty. :) so the bottom half is acrylic?
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
That looks awesome! As someone who hasn't used alps but is alps-curious I'm kicking myself for not getting the alps add on :mad:
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
pretty. :) so the bottom half is acrylic?
Thanks! Yes bottom is acrylic. The blue alps in this baby have me quite the trouble had to repair a good 15 of them. Much headache. Actually ripped a trace by accident. And soldered 84 smd diodes. Worked a lot today but I am happy it all turned out ok. Definitely never doing alps again. **** em. Cherry all the way
will there be the V3 next?
Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/46ee283cae2b85e6b2dc00b518635027.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/01/02/8c244b80dda97d116f9f37094039a276.jpg)
pretty. :) so the bottom half is acrylic?
Thanks! Yes bottom is acrylic. The blue alps in this baby have me quite the trouble had to repair a good 15 of them. Much headache. Actually ripped a trace by accident. And soldered 84 smd diodes. Worked a lot today but I am happy it all turned out ok. Definitely never doing alps again. **** em. Cherry all the way
That board is pure excellence great work, i wish i was paying attention when this GB was open and joined. What was wrong with the blue alps that required them to be repaired?
If anyone has a black or blue top case extra, that they'd be willing to part with, let me know.
Wouldn't mind having another color option stashed.
Yeah, yeah, i know, should've thought of that when i was ordering...
Hindsight 20/20.
I'm pretty sure the only way to get the top case is by having the buy the kit itself, the bottoms is what were the options.
Am i the only person annoyed by the PWM flicker of the backlight LEDs (keyswitch LEDs, not the back-*side* LEDs)?
Haven't noticed it mentioned by anyone. It's pretty nasty, i'd say 60 Hz or so?
Am i the only person annoyed by the PWM flicker of the backlight LEDs (keyswitch LEDs, not the back-*side* LEDs)?I notice it as well but it is common with duck pcbs
Haven't noticed it mentioned by anyone. It's pretty nasty, i'd say 60 Hz or so?
Am i the only person annoyed by the PWM flicker of the backlight LEDs (keyswitch LEDs, not the back-*side* LEDs)?
Haven't noticed it mentioned by anyone. It's pretty nasty, i'd say 60 Hz or so?
Yeah, white LEDs here.
I notice it at nearly full brightness.
Oh well... Perhaps it'll be less noticeable with the keycaps on.
Haven't assembled it yet, i'm stuck on trying to figure out why my space is sticky with a space bar on.
My current suspect is the cherry stab wire - it's likely bent a little too wide, so one of the stabs is at an angle instead of completely straight.
Yeah, white LEDs here.
I notice it at nearly full brightness.
Oh well... Perhaps it'll be less noticeable with the keycaps on.
Haven't assembled it yet, i'm stuck on trying to figure out why my space is sticky with a space bar on.
My current suspect is the cherry stab wire - it's likely bent a little too wide, so one of the stabs is at an angle instead of completely straight.
Little update in case someone encounters the same issue...Meant to ask about this last night, I'm glad you said something before I forgot.
It seems the space stab holes are mounted ever so slightly too close to each other, or, the wire i've got was ever so slightly too long (as i've correctly guessed initially). This then causes the stab stems to rub against the edge of the stabilizer housing (the wire displaces the bottom too far to the left on the left stab and too far to the right on the right stab - since the stems can pivot around the wire, this forces the stems to rub against the right and left wall of the housing respectively).
While i was troubleshooting, i first tried lightly shaving off some material off the moving part of the stabilizer under the stem with an emery file. Bad idea. It leaves a sandpapery feel to the stabilizer that i had to smooth with sandpaper, and it all amounted to nothing.
What did help was removing the stab wire (you don't need to remove the plate or desolder anything to do that, it's accessible through the hole and on the side - if you need to do this and can't figure it out, let me know, i'll help), take the pliers and lightly bend the short segments *inwards*, like this:
/_______\
And by *lightly*, i mean really lightly. It's a trial and error thing. You bend it a little, put it back, mount a space bar cap, try it, remove it, remove the wire, bend a little more etc. until it's just right.
I'm getting 0 stickyness now and the sandpaper texture is irrelevant, as the stem isn't chafing the edge of the housing anymore anyways.
What's the FLIP key on this keyboard?
Backspace
Backspace
Of course, the only one i didn't try.
Thanks!
I can't figure out the LED controls for the life of me. LED Down seems to turn the LEDs off. LED Up seems to turn them on. No idea how to change the brightness. Oh well, something to play with tomorrow, it's 5am already.
So I'm just planning ahead. How many of you add a heavier spring to your space bar? I have 78g gold springs I plan to put on the my space bar due to having a sticky space bar on my GON. good idea or bad?
So I'm just planning ahead. How many of you add a heavier spring to your space bar? I have 78g gold springs I plan to put on the my space bar due to having a sticky space bar on my GON. good idea or bad?
I'm putting a Cherry Tactile Gray on my spacebar
So I'm just planning ahead. How many of you add a heavier spring to your space bar? I have 78g gold springs I plan to put on the my space bar due to having a sticky space bar on my GON. good idea or bad?
I'm putting a Cherry Tactile Gray on my spacebar
+1
I got that in my spacebar for my Jane and love it. However I went full Zealios in my Orion because having all Purple stems and one Gray one would look weird af in my opinion.
So I'm just planning ahead. How many of you add a heavier spring to your space bar? I have 78g gold springs I plan to put on the my space bar due to having a sticky space bar on my GON. good idea or bad?
I'm putting a Cherry Tactile Gray on my spacebar
+1
I got that in my spacebar for my Jane and love it. However I went full Zealios in my Orion because having all Purple stems and one Gray one would look weird af in my opinion.
My Zealio & Tactile Gray Jane is superior. Fite mii.
So would 78g on zealios be good or bad? should I buy a grey switch?
Looks like I have to let mine go. Will be putting up a classifieds thread, but thought I'd post here first. I've only opened the package to check for damages, there were none.
Looks like I have to let mine go. Will be putting up a classifieds thread, but thought I'd post here first. I've only opened the package to check for damages, there were none.
Pmd!
Looks like I have to let mine go. Will be putting up a classifieds thread, but thought I'd post here first. I've only opened the package to check for damages, there were none.
Pretty sure you need to press LED Control first and then the brightness settings will work.
Pretty sure you need to press LED Control first and then the brightness settings will work.
How do you "commit" the change?
Pretty sure you need to press LED Control first and then the brightness settings will work.
How do you "commit" the change?
Okay, so hitting LED Control again commits.
But if you hit LED Control AGAIN, it shuts down all the LED sections. And you basically need to turn them on again then set the brightness. Very bizarre behaviour. I've also managed to get the underglow LEDs to flicker really really badly somehow, no idea how. I don't mean breathe slowly, nor pulsate, but really flicker at like 20Hz or so. Hitting LED Control and RGB Mode a few times fixed it. Couldn't replicate, i think it's a weird bug.
Annnyways, i think i've finally cured my space bar:
A few gratuitous shots.
Yes, it's Granite. Yes, it's DSA. I don't like cylindrical profile. Get over it :PShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4818_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4831_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4824_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4821_resize.jpg)
Just opened my package it's... it's beautiful. I had some time today to put together the rest of my MX clears so hopefully I'll have it done by this weekend! One thing I didn't find, how were the indicator LEDs supposed to work? I don't have anything soldered in the holes and I don't see any bags containing LEDs. Were we supposed to provide our own LEDs?
also what exactly do the five LEDs indicate? I need to catch up on how this keyboard works.
Just opened my package it's... it's beautiful. I had some time today to put together the rest of my MX clears so hopefully I'll have it done by this weekend! One thing I didn't find, how were the indicator LEDs supposed to work? I don't have anything soldered in the holes and I don't see any bags containing LEDs. Were we supposed to provide our own LEDs?
also what exactly do the five LEDs indicate? I need to catch up on how this keyboard works.
You're suppose to provide your own LEDs for the indicators. The five indicators above your arrow keys are for your layers with the fifth being the temp layer. The three indicators next to your ESC key are for your Scroll, Num, and Caps Lock.
A few gratuitous shots.Looks awsome! I was also thinking of using my Granite set but with black top and bottom aluminium housing. Unfortunately my EU soldering service guy is not responding to PM. Seems I have to wait even longer before I can start using this beauty :(
Yes, it's Granite. Yes, it's DSA. I don't like cylindrical profile. Get over itShow Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4818_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4831_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4824_resize.jpg)Show Image(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1702513/DSCF4821_resize.jpg)
Just opened my package it's... it's beautiful. I had some time today to put together the rest of my MX clears so hopefully I'll have it done by this weekend! One thing I didn't find, how were the indicator LEDs supposed to work? I don't have anything soldered in the holes and I don't see any bags containing LEDs. Were we supposed to provide our own LEDs?
also what exactly do the five LEDs indicate? I need to catch up on how this keyboard works.
You're suppose to provide your own LEDs for the indicators. The five indicators above your arrow keys are for your layers with the fifth being the temp layer. The three indicators next to your ESC key are for your Scroll, Num, and Caps Lock.
Oh, ok. Didn't expect that but it's not a problem. What LED colors are people using for these? There shouldn't be an issue mixing and matching high vs lower current LEDs, right? (e.g. white LEDs on switches and red/blue/green/orange LEDs on indicators).
It turned out just marvellous, congratz!
Looks awsome! I was also thinking of using my Granite set but with black top and bottom aluminium housing. Unfortunately my EU soldering service guy is not responding to PM. Seems I have to wait even longer before I can start using this beauty :(
All classy and crap:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/svgquRC.jpg)
my photography is garbageShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/34IG86A.jpg)
Looks awesome, best Orion so far to me!
Anyone knows if there's a way to control the five LEDs on the right software side?
Looks awesome, best Orion so far to me!
Anyone knows if there's a way to control the five LEDs on the right software side?
They're indicators, nothing really that you can control about them.
my photography is garbageShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/34IG86A.jpg)
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
:eek:
I can't wait! ;D :D ;) :-*
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
:eek:
I can't wait! ;D :D ;) :-*
u'll have to wait a year for the gb to actually finish so I'd work on the whole "can't wait" thing.
DONE! Man this took me forever to finish. I was doing everything in fine detail. I am having an issue with my print screen button going off hundreds of times in seconds any ideas?where did u get your cyan from?
The LED's were going to be temporary because I didn't have enough of cyan but I really love how the colors mix. Also the TA set looked ugly at first but now it is love at first sight on the orionShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Jc2KQdc.jpg)
will there be a new thread for the new GB?
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
may I ask for the schedule of Viper ... ?
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
may I ask for the schedule of Viper ... ?
maybe 2017... duck project on 2016 is
octagon V2 > Lightsaver V3 > Orion V3
I'm having issues uploading a new keymap. I installed Atmel Flip and the Java runtime but whenever I try to access USB devices it gives me an error saying "atilibusbdfu.dll not found". I figure Windows doesn't have the proper drivers installed for the keyboard but I don't see any Atmel devices in the Device Manager like in his tutorial page, and I can't seem to be able to manually install the correct USB driver. Anyone have a how-to?
The keyboard seems to work just fine otherwise, but I don't have a way to access layers or functions and the LEDs are annoyingly bright. One quirk I've noticed is that RGui press activates both RGUI and Menu, not sure if this is a keymap issue or a soldering issue. I don't see any bridges, but since I can't change the keymap I can't confirm if it's a problem.
I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I don't believe so, it's just standard procedure for assembling every board. It's also a big help that the all the SMD parts come pre-soldered. If you're having trouble building I suggest you take look some member's build logs, that's how I learned to build my first board. :thumb:
Edit: Oops I think you may mean the case itself and not the board, if so there so there are no instructions listed for that.
lol yeah, I meant the case. I've done SMD soldering before and it's not that bad. I guess I'll look harder at it when I get my switches and stabs.
Instructions
Assembly
Except for the Switches and in Switch Leds/SIPs there is no soldering you have to do. The Assembly couldnt be more straight forwards:
1. Install stabs on pcb
2. Solder Switches and LEDs
3. Screw Plate PCB combo onto the top cover with 8 round head screws (put top cover upside down)
4. Put the two acrylic inserts into place (after removing the protective film)
5. Put Top cover into place on top of the bottom one with acrylic inserts inbetween
6. Flip upside down and screw together (4 small flat screws 4 very long cylindrical screws for the angled bottoms, 8 flat screws for the flat acrylic bottom)
7. Turn upside down and you are finished ;)
Firmware
For the firmware its a bit more work..
I got most of the information from this guide:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Q2mepcAlZnWmx5V1d2QmZqZGs/view
1. Download the follwing files
http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/
https://gallery.atmel.com/Products/Details/6272a8fd-68fe-43d8-a990-741878cfe7b6 (sadly you will have to register for it >:D)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/124
2. Install the amtel usb driver
3. put the o2d mapper into the folder of the dfu programmer
4. Start up the o2dmapper and map your stuff
5. save your hex and rename it (long names make it crash)
6. disconnect your Orion V2
7. hold backspace and reconnect your v2
8. in the firmware upload popup click connect and upload your firmware
9. you are good to go! have fun with this amazing keyboard
These are not proper official instructions, but rather a sum up of how I assembled my Orion and updated the firmware. Please be careful when handeling your device and don't make me responsible for any damage that occurs.
I'm having issues uploading a new keymap. I installed Atmel Flip and the Java runtime but whenever I try to access USB devices it gives me an error saying "atilibusbdfu.dll not found". I figure Windows doesn't have the proper drivers installed for the keyboard but I don't see any Atmel devices in the Device Manager like in his tutorial page, and I can't seem to be able to manually install the correct USB driver. Anyone have a how-to?
The keyboard seems to work just fine otherwise, but I don't have a way to access layers or functions and the LEDs are annoyingly bright. One quirk I've noticed is that RGui press activates both RGUI and Menu, not sure if this is a keymap issue or a soldering issue. I don't see any bridges, but since I can't change the keymap I can't confirm if it's a problem.
This is the guide I posted some time ago...I'm sure this has been answered or it's very obvious, but is there a guide on assembling this?
I don't believe so, it's just standard procedure for assembling every board. It's also a big help that the all the SMD parts come pre-soldered. If you're having trouble building I suggest you take look some member's build logs, that's how I learned to build my first board. :thumb:
Edit: Oops I think you may mean the case itself and not the board, if so there so there are no instructions listed for that.
lol yeah, I meant the case. I've done SMD soldering before and it's not that bad. I guess I'll look harder at it when I get my switches and stabs.
Instructions
Assembly
Except for the Switches and in Switch Leds/SIPs there is no soldering you have to do. The Assembly couldnt be more straight forwards:
1. Install stabs on pcb
2. Solder Switches and LEDs
3. Screw Plate PCB combo onto the top cover with 8 round head screws (put top cover upside down)
4. Put the two acrylic inserts into place (after removing the protective film)
5. Put Top cover into place on top of the bottom one with acrylic inserts inbetween
6. Flip upside down and screw together (4 small flat screws 4 very long cylindrical screws for the angled bottoms, 8 flat screws for the flat acrylic bottom)
7. Turn upside down and you are finished ;)
Firmware
For the firmware its a bit more work..
I got most of the information from this guide:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Q2mepcAlZnWmx5V1d2QmZqZGs/view
1. Download the follwing files
http://sourceforge.net/projects/dfu-programmer/files/dfu-programmer/0.7.0/
https://gallery.atmel.com/Products/Details/6272a8fd-68fe-43d8-a990-741878cfe7b6 (sadly you will have to register for it >:D)
http://duck0113.tistory.com/124
2. Install the amtel usb driver
3. put the o2d mapper into the folder of the dfu programmer
4. Start up the o2dmapper and map your stuff
5. save your hex and rename it (long names make it crash)
6. disconnect your Orion V2
7. hold backspace and reconnect your v2
8. in the firmware upload popup click connect and upload your firmware
9. you are good to go! have fun with this amazing keyboard
These are not proper official instructions, but rather a sum up of how I assembled my Orion and updated the firmware. Please be careful when handeling your device and don't make me responsible for any damage that occurs.
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
may I ask for the schedule of Viper ... ?
maybe 2017... duck project on 2016 is
octagon V2 > Lightsaver V3 > Orion V3
Glad to hear it is not 2018! :3
Octagon V2 GB will be up soon.
may I ask for the schedule of Viper ... ?
maybe 2017... duck project on 2016 is
octagon V2 > Lightsaver V3 > Orion V3
Glad to hear it is not 2018! :3
It most likely will be 2019. Think of it this way, if each group buy lasts as long as the Orion v2(9 months) then that'll be 27 months or 2 years and 3 months away until the Orion v3 group buy will be complete. Then you'll most likely have to wait another 9 months for the Viper/Eagle group buy to finish, so that's overall 36 months or 3 years when you'll get one at your doorstep. Who knows Duck may be able to step it up by a couple months but it'll still be a long time.
the first octagon took two and a half months between orders closing and buyers receiving their board, for ~35 units. this is with a 2 week delay due to the metal stickers iirc. so the best case scenario for a 60 unit buy would be to last <4 months between orders closing and shipments being made. obviously the orion2 buy had a number of setbacks that extended its duration, but there's no reason to assume that duck will run into anything of the sorts again
think positive guys :]
My bounce issue is spreading. Now it's not just space anymore, it's other (random) keys.
It doesn't happen VERY often, but it happens.
I'm guessing default debounce is extremely conservative, possibly to get the poll rate as high as possible.
I am letting my order go, pm me if you are interested.
This is such a n00b question n, but: could someone tell me if the Winkeyless space bar is 7x or 6.25x? On my cherry board it is 7x, is that the same for these?
Thanks.
This is such a n00b question n, but: could someone tell me if the Winkeyless space bar is 7x or 6.25x? On my cherry board it is 7x, is that the same for these?
Thanks.
7x :)
Does the Orion have RGB SMD's or are they just plain white? The pics sow multiple color underlighting.
Does the Orion have RGB SMD's or are they just plain white? The pics sow multiple color underlighting.Rgb
Does the Orion have RGB SMD's or are they just plain white? The pics sow multiple color underlighting.Rgb
Does the Orion have RGB SMD's or are they just plain white? The pics sow multiple color underlighting.Rgb
So you can switch colors? Set a key to switch cars :D
My bounce issue is spreading. Now it's not just space anymore, it's other (random) keys.
It doesn't happen VERY often, but it happens.
I'm guessing default debounce is extremely conservative, possibly to get the poll rate as high as possible.
What switches are you using? Related, how did you fix the spacebar stickiness? I've got some friction with my spacebar stab and didn't notice until after I had already soldered on all my switches. Hoping it just goes away over time.
stab switch stab
v---stem v---casing
[+] [+] [+]
--- ---
^---wire anchor
Got my hands on an alps pcb/plate but I have no idea which diodes I need. I have some 1N4148 smd diodes leftover from my ergodox build, would those work?
Got my hands on an alps pcb/plate but I have no idea which diodes I need. I have some 1N4148 smd diodes leftover from my ergodox build, would those work?
Diodes are pretty much interchangeable for this application, as long as they fit the footprint.
Just mind the polarity.
You're not able to program a key to change colors iirc, however you can control the color of each SMD RGB LED in the keymapper and even have them rotate colors.
You're not able to program a key to change colors iirc, however you can control the color of each SMD RGB LED in the keymapper and even have them rotate colors.
Correct, but incomplete.
You can't program a key to change colors directly (in the sense of tweaking RGB values from the keyboard itself), but you can make the whole backlight a single color and then step through multiple colors (specified in 02D keymapper) back and forth using the RGB + and RGB - keys. Don't ask me how, i played with it and forgot the exact steps. You need to find the right mode first using RGB Mode key, then RGB +/- step through the colors. I *think* you have to hit Change Lock first, but i might've misremebered.
Interesting tidbit - it seems you can change the maximum USB current limit of the keyboard in the Control Mode (from default 500mA).
You're not able to program a key to change colors iirc, however you can control the color of each SMD RGB LED in the keymapper and even have them rotate colors.
Correct, but incomplete.
You can't program a key to change colors directly (in the sense of tweaking RGB values from the keyboard itself), but you can make the whole backlight a single color and then step through multiple colors (specified in 02D keymapper) back and forth using the RGB + and RGB - keys. Don't ask me how, i played with it and forgot the exact steps. You need to find the right mode first using RGB Mode key, then RGB +/- step through the colors. I *think* you have to hit Change Lock first, but i might've misremebered.
Interesting tidbit - it seems you can change the maximum USB current limit of the keyboard in the Control Mode (from default 500mA).
Ah yeah I forgot about that, it's quite tricky to work. I have those keys programmed on my second layer but when I attempt to change the color(currently at solid red) all it does is flash the RGB LEDs but does nothing else(color stays the same).
Ah yeah I forgot about that, it's quite tricky to work. I have those keys programmed on my second layer but when I attempt to change the color(currently at solid red) all it does is flash the RGB LEDs but does nothing else(color stays the same).
This place sure went quiet all of a sudden ;D
Sorry for the (semi-)necro.
This place sure went quiet all of a sudden ;D
Sorry for the (semi-)necro.
Hello, I just saw this group buy and apparently I've missed it - is it true that the next GB for this keyboard is next year??
I'm sure you could find someone who'd be willing to sell their board to you.
There was one that was recently posted on r/mechmarket and got snatched up within minutes. It sold for $600 USD...
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/41xchf/aushclearance_orion_v2_bolt_modded_model_m/
There was one that was recently posted on r/mechmarket and got snatched up within minutes. It sold for $600 USD...
https://www.reddit.com/r/mechmarket/comments/41xchf/aushclearance_orion_v2_bolt_modded_model_m/
Keep in mind that's an assembled board and is pretty much what the guy paid for if i can do math correctly.
Heres what I did:
I mapped "FN1" to function key I desired then copied Layer FN4 to Layer FN1.
Then you press Function key + Esc (LED Ctrl), indicator light should blink located above arrow key
Press function key + F1-4 or which section you prefer.
Press function key + Up or function key + Down to change brightness
welp I'll take it as an extra period for me to save up then ;(Hello, I just saw this group buy and apparently I've missed it - is it true that the next GB for this keyboard is next year??
Yes, that is true, in a sense. The group buy next year will be for the Orion v3, so the next iteration.
So, it might be worth it to wait, but if not, I'm sure you could find someone who'd be willing to sell their board to you.
You need to enter the LED Ctrl mode first in order to get up and down arrow to work for brightness.
Since you are using the default mapping, you just have to map one function to test it.
Map "FN4" to a key you prefer (bottom row keys etc).
The default LED controls are on Layer FN4. Pressing and holding a key that is mapped to "FN4" will let you use Layer FN4.
Maybe it uses different combination to change brightnessYou need to enter the LED Ctrl mode first in order to get up and down arrow to work for brightness.
Since you are using the default mapping, you just have to map one function to test it.
Map "FN4" to a key you prefer (bottom row keys etc).
The default LED controls are on Layer FN4. Pressing and holding a key that is mapped to "FN4" will let you use Layer FN4.
I still don't get how these work for my Duck Eagle, I mean... I've used LED control and LED UP and DOWN to no effect, LED CTRL and LED DOWN both turn off the LED; pressing LED control again turns them on again. LED UP does nothing except also turn the LEDs on if they are off after pressing LED DOWN.
In other words, the brightness doesn't seem to work! I'm fine with this on my Eagle as it's pretty much just right for me, but really wish I could adjust it on my Octagon.
I have an acrylic angled bottom that I'm willing to same. Retail price + shipping.
This is kind of an odd question, but I have the MX PCB leftover from this GB, and was wondering if anyone knows if the switch placements line up with the GON PCB? I was hoping to buy a Crystal TKL housing and use the PCB... ;)
This is kind of an odd question, but I have the MX PCB leftover from this GB, and was wondering if anyone knows if the switch placements line up with the GON PCB? I was hoping to buy a Crystal TKL housing and use the PCB... ;)
I was considering approaching SEAL for custom wood work. Maybe you'd like to give that a try over your gon option if no one comes forward and answers your question.
This is kind of an odd question, but I have the MX PCB leftover from this GB, and was wondering if anyone knows if the switch placements line up with the GON PCB? I was hoping to buy a Crystal TKL housing and use the PCB... ;)
I was considering approaching SEAL for custom wood work. Maybe you'd like to give that a try over your gon option if no one comes forward and answers your question.
I asked WKL about the new b.87 housing and Hojin actually knew--no compatibility. :(
Went to texas for PAX South this past weekend and found this when I went to NASA.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3wFFw2r.jpg)
Yeah man. I saw it and immediately picked it up.
That's a good idea on the case. I'll have to get in touch with intelli
Yeah man. I saw it and immediately picked it up.
That's a good idea on the case. I'll have to get in touch with intelli
Hmm... I wonder if he'll do a case with the Jane logo.
Went to texas for PAX South this past weekend and found this when I went to NASA.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3wFFw2r.jpg)
Dude, THAT is so sick and so fitting!
It'd work for both the Orion and the Mira, though... Well, the Mira...
SPEAK NO EVIL, GENTS!
That patch is fantastic though. If you ever got a custom hard case done by intelli like I have for my Octagon v1, you should definitely consider having them slap that patch on! I got a Jukebox patch made for my Octagon to go with the theme!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UFYuRfS.jpg)
E3E I thought I might be able to figure it out but for some reason, my Octagon doesn't want to let me control the LEDs like I used to do it before, I can only go to LED Ctrl mode and lets me turn it on and off and no brightness, I can't even turn it on without going to LED ctrl first, this is weird, I've tried reflashing back to default then back to my custom mapping. Outside of LED Ctrl it used to let me control the LED effects, brightness, etc.
I still don't get how these work for my Duck Eagle, I mean... I've used LED control and LED UP and DOWN to no effect, LED CTRL and LED DOWN both turn off the LED; pressing LED control again turns them on again. LED UP does nothing except also turn the LEDs on if they are off after pressing LED DOWN.
In other words, the brightness doesn't seem to work! I'm fine with this on my Eagle as it's pretty much just right for me, but really wish I could adjust it on my Octagon.
Went to texas for PAX South this past weekend and found this when I went to NASA.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/3wFFw2r.jpg)
Dude, THAT is so sick and so fitting!
It'd work for both the Orion and the Mira, though... Well, the Mira...
SPEAK NO EVIL, GENTS!
That patch is fantastic though. If you ever got a custom hard case done by intelli like I have for my Octagon v1, you should definitely consider having them slap that patch on! I got a Jukebox patch made for my Octagon to go with the theme!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UFYuRfS.jpg)
Tell me more about this padded keyboard case.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.^-^
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.sweet thanks for the news ;D
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
we talking bout the split kb?
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
we talking bout the split kb?
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
I don't want to leak too much about the next keypad, but I will say it will not be your traditional keypad. It will be very special, one of the kind keypad with many functions.
The design is not even made yet, so it possibly won't be in the next group buy, rather sometime this year..possibly.
Starting to get to grips with it now, love this board
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1499/24574710070_4b670ccd43.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/DrzP8L)
If anyone would ever want to let go of a full aluminum Orion v2 with an Alps plate and PCB, hit me up.
This is the only TKL I'd ever bother with, haha.
If anyone would ever want to let go of a full aluminum Orion v2 with an Alps plate and PCB, hit me up.
This is the only TKL I'd ever bother with, haha.
That's a super tight request. Although it IS the sole exception for a TKL I do wish you luck. :thumb:
If anyone would ever want to let go of a full aluminum Orion v2 with an Alps plate and PCB, hit me up.
This is the only TKL I'd ever bother with, haha.
That's a super tight request. Although it IS the sole exception for a TKL I do wish you luck. :thumb:
Oh, I know. I know. I don't plan on it ever being fulfilled, trust me. :P
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
I just mean in the sense that it's very rare that somebody will approach you to sell the board. If they want to sell it they'll put it up on classifieds or contact a friend first.
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
I just mean in the sense that it's very rare that somebody will approach you to sell the board. If they want to sell it they'll put it up on classifieds or contact a friend first.
:-[ but but but this is how I got a viper and eagle 2 years back. I know its rare but it doesn't hurt to ask here.
we need a revolution, keyboards for everyone >:DAnyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
I just mean in the sense that it's very rare that somebody will approach you to sell the board. If they want to sell it they'll put it up on classifieds or contact a friend first.
:-[ but but but this is how I got a viper and eagle 2 years back. I know its rare but it doesn't hurt to ask here.
It doesn't hurt to ask and I don't mean to discourage you. It's just that a lot of people do the same I never see anything come of it.
we need a revolution, keyboards for everyone >:DAnyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
I just mean in the sense that it's very rare that somebody will approach you to sell the board. If they want to sell it they'll put it up on classifieds or contact a friend first.
:-[ but but but this is how I got a viper and eagle 2 years back. I know its rare but it doesn't hurt to ask here.
It doesn't hurt to ask and I don't mean to discourage you. It's just that a lot of people do the same I never see anything come of it.
only if put in an order before I left... I wish I knew it was going to take 8+ months :'(
If anyone would ever want to let go of a full aluminum Orion v2 with an Alps plate and PCB, hit me up.
This is the only TKL I'd ever bother with, haha.
That's a super tight request. Although it IS the sole exception for a TKL I do wish you luck. :thumb:
Oh, I know. I know. I don't plan on it ever being fulfilled, trust me. :P
Slushi has 1 of 5 existing ALPS kits since he took my order.
Anyone willing to part with their keyboard please let me know ^-^
That's usually not how it works but good luck.
:( what? i edit it to sell
I just mean in the sense that it's very rare that somebody will approach you to sell the board. If they want to sell it they'll put it up on classifieds or contact a friend first.
:-[ but but but this is how I got a viper and eagle 2 years back. I know its rare but it doesn't hurt to ask here.
It doesn't hurt to ask and I don't mean to discourage you. It's just that a lot of people do the same I never see anything come of it.
I can consider throwing my topre candy corn or topre drunken + monies if you're into that sort thing :rolleyes:
I can consider throwing my topre candy corn or topre drunken + monies if you're into that sort thing :rolleyes:
No... You can always get an Orion later. How often can you get those CC's?
Is anyone having issues running the keymapper? I am running Windows 10 Pro and the old 1.6.456 keymapper works with it but not the 1.7.596b for the Orion V2.
I have a MX steel plate to trade for an aluminum plate if anyone is willing.
Plastic plate is where it's at.
I have plastic plate on Orion v2 and stainless steel plate on Octagon
After weeks of use, I kinda prefer the stainless steel, although the tactile is most felt on the plastic plate.
WTB stainless steel plate
Cherry ergo clear on stainless steelI have plastic plate on Orion v2 and stainless steel plate on Octagon
After weeks of use, I kinda prefer the stainless steel, although the tactile is most felt on the plastic plate.
WTB stainless steel plate
What switch do you use on the stainless steel?
Cherry ergo clear on stainless steelI have plastic plate on Orion v2 and stainless steel plate on Octagon
After weeks of use, I kinda prefer the stainless steel, although the tactile is most felt on the plastic plate.
WTB stainless steel plate
What switch do you use on the stainless steel?
Zealio tactile on plastic
I certainly hope I don't regret aluminum for my vintage MX white switches on the Octagon v2! I've never used Aluminum before, but MX greens sounded like crap on the Octagon v1. To be fair, vintage whites sound so much nicer. I put them in Zealio housings and they are more consistent. Slightly louder (stock housings had them a bit inconsistent and practically mute, which was intriguing), but still quiet and refined. They remind me of Alps a bit. They sound icky with SA caps, but sounded great with Cherry profile PBT. I'm hoping they'll sound good with GMK, though I'm thinking that GMK SNES might not ever hit MQO. I hope I'm wrong about that, because that is THE set I want for the Octagon v2.
Otherwise, I'm gonna have to try and find a PBT set I can dye, haha.
Also, I keep forgetting, but I wanted to thank you for your tips on brightness adjustment, man, that really helped! I can't find an LED scheme that goes well with Jukebox though. :/
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I am able to connect and upload firmware like the custom orion v2 preset one, but when the firmware upload box comes up I get a memory write error, use debug for more info. message. None of the keys work at this point,
Full message says
3-2. frmware write...
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
0% 100% Programming 0x7000 bytes
...
[ X Error
Memory write error, use debug for more info.
3-3. restart device...
Firmware upload done.
press any key to continue...
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I am able to connect and upload firmware like the custom orion v2 preset one, but when the firmware upload box comes up I get a memory write error, use debug for more info. message. None of the keys work at this point,
Full message says
3-2. frmware write...
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
0% 100% Programming 0x7000 bytes
...
[ X Error
Memory write error, use debug for more info.
3-3. restart device...
Firmware upload done.
press any key to continue...
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I am able to connect and upload firmware like the custom orion v2 preset one, but when the firmware upload box comes up I get a memory write error, use debug for more info. message. None of the keys work at this point,
Full message says
3-2. frmware write...
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
0% 100% Programming 0x7000 bytes
...
[ X Error
Memory write error, use debug for more info.
3-3. restart device...
Firmware upload done.
press any key to continue...
Try renaming the hex file to something simple .hex and upload it using the FLIP program. After that I've got nothing for ya.
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I am able to connect and upload firmware like the custom orion v2 preset one, but when the firmware upload box comes up I get a memory write error, use debug for more info. message. None of the keys work at this point,
Full message says
3-2. frmware write...
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
0% 100% Programming 0x7000 bytes
...
[ X Error
Memory write error, use debug for more info.
3-3. restart device...
Firmware upload done.
press any key to continue...
Try renaming the hex file to something simple .hex and upload it using the FLIP program. After that I've got nothing for ya.
do you mind linking me to the flip program? or more so how to use it?
I finally got my board built and running. My spacebar is a bit mushy. Is the only way fix this issue to put a heavy spring in it? Also, I can't seem control the led brightness. It just turns the leds on or off when I use led ctrl..
Super tight fitting caps can cause a somewhat mushy feel if you press the stablizer mounts down as far as they can go. I've seen this on Gateron PBT space bars. I forget if GMK had this issue.
I just flashed a firmware and I forgot to switch the B/S to the key to the left of it.. Now I can't flash anything onto it :( Did I really screw up badly? Or is there a fix for this?
From what I understand, it's not actually bound to Backspace itself, but simply the key in that position, and that cannot be altered through the firmware.
In otherwords, I think you should be fine. Just try holding the key down while plugging the board in again. Make sure you unplug the cable all the way first; I've done some lazy unplugs where I only barely disconnect the cable until I hear the disconnect sound from Windows, but that has proven to be a false positive at times.
I hope I've understood you correctly! Sorry if I've misinterpreted anything.
I am able to connect and upload firmware like the custom orion v2 preset one, but when the firmware upload box comes up I get a memory write error, use debug for more info. message. None of the keys work at this point,
Full message says
3-2. frmware write...
Checking memory from 0x0 to 0x6FFF... Empty.
0% 100% Programming 0x7000 bytes
...
[ X Error
Memory write error, use debug for more info.
3-3. restart device...
Firmware upload done.
press any key to continue...
Try renaming the hex file to something simple .hex and upload it using the FLIP program. After that I've got nothing for ya.
do you mind linking me to the flip program? or more so how to use it?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Is this a custom weight? :confused:
From Orion v2's Group buy in South KoreaFinally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Where did u get this?
Looks Awesome
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Is this a custom weight? :confused:
Yes.
The aluminum bottom has space designed for a weight to be placed inside.
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Is this a custom weight? :confused:
Yes.
The aluminum bottom has space designed for a weight to be placed inside.
Ah - always wondered what that hole was for, now that I know I feel quite stupid :p
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Is this a custom weight? :confused:
Yes.
The aluminum bottom has space designed for a weight to be placed inside.
Ah - always wondered what that hole was for, now that I know I feel quite stupid :p
So how do I get one?
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Is this a custom weight? :confused:
Yes.
The aluminum bottom has space designed for a weight to be placed inside.
Ah - always wondered what that hole was for, now that I know I feel quite stupid :p
So how do I get one?
Step one: learn Korean
Step two: find a Korean friend after quitting learning
Step three: cry that you missed the group buy and that you have no friends
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Very nice filphil! I was about to pick one up myself but ended up selling my board. ;)
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Very nice filphil! I was about to pick one up myself but ended up selling my board. ;)
I'd argue you've got a pretty good project in return for the board though!
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Very nice filphil! I was about to pick one up myself but ended up selling my board. ;)
I'd argue you've got a pretty good project in return for the board though!
Yeah haha I'd say it's a rather good trade, I'm hoping I won't regret it. Definitely a lot more work for this upcoming board but it should be worth it. :thumb:
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
That looks so good but I guess you can't see it when it's installed in the board :(
Was this specific to the korean buys? Any reason it wasn't available in the geekhack groupbuy? I would've loved some extra heft to this board :p
Finally got one coming to meShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/Lvci6vA.jpg)
Very nice filphil! I was about to pick one up myself but ended up selling my board. ;)
I'd argue you've got a pretty good project in return for the board though!
Yeah haha I'd say it's a rather good trade, I'm hoping I won't regret it. Definitely a lot more work for this upcoming board but it should be worth it. :thumb:
Idk how you walk around with those massive balls of yours. I'd **** myself desoldering and soldering that.
Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience! Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.
Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience! Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.
Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience! Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.
I really don't use the layer function. Admittedly I don't think I have a use for it but I kept function layer 4 from from default for the rgb control.
Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience! Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.
I really don't use the layer function. Admittedly I don't think I have a use for it but I kept function layer 4 from from default for the rgb control.
I use my function layer all the time, but that's on my 60%. As for my TKL, the only time I use it is for controlling the LEDs and accessing the numpad a la Realforce.
Is it possible to be too in love with a keyboard?
Is it possible to be too in love with a keyboard?
Depends... Did you put your manhood in it?
Is it possible to be too in love with a keyboard?
Depends... Did you put your manhood in it?
Well, things got a bit weird... Oh god the feels again... :-[
This looks awesome! But the question is how I can get one... any group buy soon?
Is it possible to be too in love with a keyboard?
Depends... Did you put your manhood in it?
Well, things got a bit weird... Oh god the feels again... :-[
My board is going in to surgery. She'll come back stronger.
Is it possible to be too in love with a keyboard?
Depends... Did you put your manhood in it?
Well, things got a bit weird... Oh god the feels again... :-[
My board is going in to surgery. She'll come back stronger.
Fiphil, don't you have three of these babies, or did you give the others away as gifts or something? What became of them? :O
One per year~I have to wait carefully I guessThis looks awesome! But the question is how I can get one... any group buy soon?
The group buy purchase period ended around 9-10 months ago. There will be another revision in a year or so but not anytime soon.
Too bad there's only 7 ALPS Orions. Because _those_ are the best!
Too bad there's only 7 ALPS Orions. Because _those_ are the best!
The 7 Samurai
So it's been asked a million times, but does anyone here have a flat acrylic bottom they wouldn't mind sparing? I'm thinking about making my own though!
Anyone have an extra plate or pcb? I'd love to buy it either. :D
Anyone have an extra plate or pcb? I'd love to buy it either. :D
Steel and pcb here
I just bought one of these sets and this will be my first custom keyboard build. I joined the Zelios switch group buy, but am unsure of what else I need to purchase for this keyboard. Is anyone able to give me a list of what parts I should buy and maybe a good tutorial of how to put this thing together? Is there any software I need to test/update the LED lighting/firmware/key layout with it?
Thanks all for any help
I just bought one of these sets and this will be my first custom keyboard build. I joined the Zelios switch group buy, but am unsure of what else I need to purchase for this keyboard. Is anyone able to give me a list of what parts I should buy and maybe a good tutorial of how to put this thing together? Is there any software I need to test/update the LED lighting/firmware/key layout with it?
Thanks all for any help
Steezus built mine a little while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78605.0)...
You will need:
- 100 1.8mm LED's (you will have some left overs, remember there are 8 extra LED's for the indicators).
- Stabilizers
I think that's it...
I just bought one of these sets and this will be my first custom keyboard build. I joined the Zelios switch group buy, but am unsure of what else I need to purchase for this keyboard. Is anyone able to give me a list of what parts I should buy and maybe a good tutorial of how to put this thing together? Is there any software I need to test/update the LED lighting/firmware/key layout with it?
Thanks all for any help
Steezus built mine a little while back (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78605.0)...
You will need:
- 100 1.8mm LED's (you will have some left overs, remember there are 8 extra LED's for the indicators).
- Stabilizers
I think that's it...
Thanks, I reached out to him for a buying list he will need. Did you require anything on your computers to adjust the lights/colors or change the keymap?
I think I have fried half of my orion :'(
While desoldering the ' switch's sip socket (had to replace the whole switch because it was sticky), I pulled part of the pcbs socket for the sip socket out as well. After installing a brand new switch with sip sockets and soldering it, I noticed that none of the LEDs in the third row, left and including the ' key, were lit up. Also the three left bottom SMD RGB LEDs were malfunctioning. One glimmering and vigorously switching to random colours, the others not lighting up at all. So I guess I have broken half of my orion. Unless you guys have any recommendations on how to fix it.
The typing itself works fine. Its just the lighting that is broken.
Otherwise I would like to maybe get a pcb from someone here who has a spare. I would be really happy to hear from someone!
Lucky apple. Im a bit salty I didnt get to buy it even though you said back on Feb 2 you'll let me know via PM if you'll decide to sell it
v3 somedaysomeday next year :confused:
;)
That is awesome E3E!Lucky apple. Im a bit salty I didnt get to buy it even though you said back on Feb 2 you'll let me know via PM if you'll decide to sell it
Rainblood, I gotcha bro. The Orion v2 I have coming in will have an alu and stainless plate, but I plan on just using the Alps and not the MX at all, so the steel is yours, my friend. :)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KfgE10I.jpg)
Got the blues :-*
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/KfgE10I.jpg)
Got the blues :-*
Please pm me if you are interested in trading your winkeyless bluegray top for a winkey bluegray top :D
Please pm me if you are interested in trading your winkeyless bluegray top for a winkey bluegray top :D
Edit: That was blank....
I might do if the PCB came with it, I unfortunately already have my switches soldered... well not unfortunately, I love it, but you know what I mean.
Please pm me if you are interested in trading your winkeyless bluegray top for a winkey bluegray top :D
Edit: That was blank....
I might do if the PCB came with it, I unfortunately already have my switches soldered... well not unfortunately, I love it, but you know what I mean.
What?
Speaking of ruining PCBs... I believe I messed up also. I had to desolder a switch and it was a real m****r f****r to get out. After soldering a new switch in, it does not register key presses. LED on that switch works though. Could I have damaged something due to over heating during the desolder process? Is it the resistor or diode maybe? I am by no means any electronics expert and this is my first custom board. So I apologize for not knowing what is what on the PCB. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Had a blast building one of these with R1N3 today. Can't wait for his picsKeyboard in question:
Had a blast building one of these with R1N3 today. Can't wait for his picsKeyboard in question:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/29/345e69956749bd7848b00308046b2276.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/29/0384f71485535858b64bcc0d1d992b53.jpg)
Speaking of ruining PCBs... I believe I messed up also. I had to desolder a switch and it was a real m****r f****r to get out. After soldering a new switch in, it does not register key presses. LED on that switch works though. Could I have damaged something due to over heating during the desolder process? Is it the resistor or diode maybe? I am by no means any electronics expert and this is my first custom board. So I apologize for not knowing what is what on the PCB. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Do you have the ability to take a macro shot of the soldering done for the switch in question?
Tbh, from someone who slams 1,2,3,4,5,Q,W,E,R,T,A,S,D,F,G,Z,X,C,V and SPACE at least 8 hours a day, it's the dreamHad a blast building one of these with R1N3 today. Can't wait for his picsKeyboard in question:Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/29/345e69956749bd7848b00308046b2276.jpg)Show Image(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/16/02/29/0384f71485535858b64bcc0d1d992b53.jpg)
Linears with an acrylic plate, now that's interesting. How are you liking it? Nice build though. :thumb:
You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.adding to this. I'm assuming you are using zealios switches so maybe you have installed a bad switch. I heard they have chattering issues but I am not sure chattering stop switch registration. you should read about it more on the zealio group buy thread
You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.adding to this. I'm assuming you are using zealios switches so maybe you have installed a bad switch. I heard they have chattering issues but I am not sure chattering stop switch registration. you should read about it more on the zealio group buy thread
Just finished installing sip sockets and switches onto the PCB. Soldering still needs to be done. I also put keys in to get a feel of the board and my 67g Zealios. Really delightful. Zealios are wicked and the board is an awsome typing experience! Although I still need to perform soldering I sat down to get used to the 02D software. Must admit I am rather confused. This is my first custom and I have not programmed any boards previously. May I ask the noob question what you guys use your layers for? Also, anyone interested in sharing configs? Would be awsome to have a Duck custom keyboard hex database on i.e. GitHub.
I really don't use the layer function. Admittedly I don't think I have a use for it but I kept function layer 4 from from default for the rgb control.
I use my function layer all the time, but that's on my 60%. As for my TKL, the only time I use it is for controlling the LEDs and accessing the numpad a la Realforce.
You'll need to grab a multimeter and check your traces. You'll want to have the multimeter set on the continuity setting(sideways looking Wifi symbol), it should beep when you touch the two prongs together. You'll want to check right pin to diode and left pin to a neighboring switch's left pin. The neighboring switch needs to be along the the same traces, I can't tell from that picture but it may be on the left and right or up and down. You can even check other switches to see how the traces find out what where to get a beep from the continuity check.
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=16411660020
opinion on these for the orion :D
http://shop.taobaofocus.com/item.php?id=16411660020
opinion on these for the orion :D
Can't go wrong with some Classic Beige, IMO.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/llbleIL.jpg)
Winkey looks nice too! It seems that there was a 50/50 split between people who ordered winkey and winkeyless on the order forms too. They're both good!
Winkey looks nice too! It seems that there was a 50/50 split between people who ordered winkey and winkeyless on the order forms too. They're both good!
I dunno... 84-key is best... ;)
How does one acquire/purchase one of them duck blockers?
MoreWell, it took a lot longer than I hoped, but here it is.
In fitting with the celestial theme I am calling this build "red shift". Reds with red o-rings (maybe ill drop these), to match the red top case and PCB. Currently using Cherry98s from PBT4.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
sweet man that looks great
you should've modded the switches with a heavier spring and clear tops :'(
I guess I should pop up now and then to ask for another round ;)
Ask for V3 then, LOL. Is there any link for V3 design?I guess I should pop up now and then to ask for another round ;)
Orion V3 is already confirmed. Asking for a second round is a little unnecessary.
About to start work on my alps pcb and got a couple things I want to verify before starting.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8R14mOY.png)
For a 1.5x - 1x - 1.5x layout I would skip the diode that is not circled, correct?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ctJMpcw.png)
Secondly I'm assuming the pads the arrows are pointing at are for the resistors for the notification LEDs. Which resistor am I supposed to use for them?
Also if I'm using switches with LEDs built in for the scroll/num/caps would I only bother with the top pads and forget the bottom pads?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/8BSZvbi.png)
And lastly do I have to worry about these at all?
I'm pretty sure I know the answers to most of these but I'm pretty nervous about working on it so I wanted to make sure.
Thanks in advance for any answers :thumb:
I don't believe you need to worry about the LED indicators near scroll lock and such as they are not compatible with the Orion v2. Only need to focus on the in-switch LEDs. :)
I might be mistaken, but I think you need to put diodes on all positions as they are part of the circuit. I would add the diodes there regardless.
As for the resistor value, Alienman82 recommended resistors of this value (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W2B5ZH8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00) for the Orion v2 Alphas PCB, as that's what he heard from Leeku.
The bits in the last picture are nothing you need to worry about as far as I know. I'm pretty sure they are serial ports used for debugging and such. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming
I need help guys! please!!
I am finally rebuilding my orion but I can't decide what switches to use on what plate.
I am building two orion pcbs this time no **** ups like before.
1 aluminum
1 plastic
I have 65g tactile zealios and 62g ergo MX grey with clear switch tops.
I was thinking zeal on plastic and mx grey on aluminum to keep an even grey color tone for aesthetics. opinions?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dXKtUME.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/joNUdhW.jpg)
I think I am going to go down this path. Purple on plastic and Grey on aluminum.I need help guys! please!!
I am finally rebuilding my orion but I can't decide what switches to use on what plate.
I am building two orion pcbs this time no **** ups like before.
1 aluminum
1 plastic
I have 65g tactile zealios and 62g ergo MX grey with clear switch tops.
I was thinking zeal on plastic and mx grey on aluminum to keep an even grey color tone for aesthetics. opinions?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/dXKtUME.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/joNUdhW.jpg)
I think you're heading down the right path. Sometimes contrast is better, but sometimes having a more uniform color palette is pleasant too. Sounds like it'll be a bit greyscale. :P
Nice to see the plate has come in, by the way.
How did you mess up the PCB last time, man?
I think I am going to go down this path. Purple on plastic and Grey on aluminum.
thanks so much man for the plate and pcb man <3 :-*
The aluminum plate is beautiful and much better looking than steel IMO
I thought I ruined my first pcb by desoldering. However the pads on the pcb are extremely sensitive and I managed to lift 1/6 of a millimeter of the pad. That is an extremely tiny amount of pad which caused half of the boards leds to stop working. About 3 weeks ago I managed to fix the issue with help from truecustoms on kbdlab.
It's just a constant struggle not being able to use my orion v2 :'( but today is the day.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ztMk8kh.jpg)
Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump. When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help.
Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace. I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place. Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering. After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.
Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump. When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help.
Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace. I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place. Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering. After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.
Yeah I noticed that I found it easier to desolder duck's pcbs with a manual soldering pump. When I used my hakko desoldering iron on a lightsaver pcb it tore it a new one and that was with lowish heat setting and extra rosin for some help.
Not saying you can't get through a pcb without messing up a trace. I found I had to relube my GH soldering pump because it was too heavily lubed in the first place. Too much lube caused some sticktion after some desoldering. After cleaning and light lubing of the soldering pump I got through without a hitch.
I was a bit of a novice then, only having worked on my multi-layer PCB Rapoo KX boards that were my introduction to the hobby, and really, because they were PITA multilayer PCBs, I bought a desoldering iron just for them, as I was doing switch swaps on them, and that included LEDs and all that fun stuff. Yeah, I guess I've always been passionate.
That said, again, I was a novice with the Octagon, but when I took the iron to the Duck Eagle PCB that was given to me by Deci for my hotswappable Alps project, I desoldered all of his switches using the desoldering iron with not a single lifted pad. There is certainly a technique to it, but I have to say, it's one of those things you feel more out of your intuition through experience than anything that can be described through words.
But do be careful, because these pads do curl up in the fetal position if too much heat gets to them.
I plan on taking a drill to my Leeku Alphas PCB (for the Orion v2) like I have with my hotswappable Alps Eagles. Hope nothing goes wrong. :P
Oh right, and like filphil expressed: flux is your friend. It makes for a lot more hassle-free and efficient soldering. Some people also swear by using lead alloy solder, but I prefer being a wimp and sticking with ROHS lead-free stuff. The lead-free stuff is always rosin core as well, but that's not enough sometimes. I hear lead solder works really well, but I just don't want to deal with that stuff. :eek:
just finished the orion with plastic plate
hmm I am not sure how I feel about it. It feels flimsy and cheap .... especially with these jt keycaps. Only if I had my hyperfuse set......! ctrl alt excuses :blank:
I am sad now I was expecting a better feel maybe it is the caps.
Well now I wait for my shipment of mx greys and I will mod them with 62g gold spring and gateron clear tops.
Morejust finished the orion with plastic plate
hmm I am not sure how I feel about it. It feels flimsy and cheap .... especially with these jt keycaps. Only if I had my hyperfuse set......! ctrl alt excuses :blank:
I am sad now I was expecting a better feel maybe it is the caps.
Well now I wait for my shipment of mx greys and I will mod them with 62g gold spring and gateron clear tops.
Plastic plate gives me the worst typing experience I ever had.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/sJqg5Fn.jpg)
Grey switches on aluminum (steel) plate is exactly what I did with Orion v1 BTW.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/G5UgOZ0.jpg)
I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol
I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol
what do you mean wobble?
When you move the keys as if its a trackpoint, it wobbles a lot vs Cherry switches.I didn't like the plastic plate as well, its like it makes the wobble on zealios more pronounced lol
what do you mean wobble?
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0QvsvZE.jpg)
its official the plastic plate grew on me I am in love now :p
can anyone explain the difference in feel between the 3 plates? Does the acrylic plate have less of a 'ping'?
If you're familiar with pcb mount or gons polycarbonate plate I would say it reminds me of those. Probably closer to the former actually. I opted for plastic over aluminum and steel for my board.
My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.
While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out... :( Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.
Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.
The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. :)
I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/0QvsvZE.jpg)
its official the plastic plate grew on me I am in love now :p
Glad you ended up liking the plastic.
When I was actively testing I thought this:can anyone explain the difference in feel between the 3 plates? Does the acrylic plate have less of a 'ping'?
If you're familiar with pcb mount or gons polycarbonate plate I would say it reminds me of those. Probably closer to the former actually. I opted for plastic over aluminum and steel for my board.
After typing on plastic for a while I thought I'd give the aluminum a longer test run and I still miss the gentle feel plastic gives over the metal plates. I WILL COME BACK TO THE PLASTIC WHEN MY ZEALIOS COME IN.
MoreMy first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.
While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out... :( Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.
Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.
The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. :)
I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!
MoreMy first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.
While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out... :( Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.
Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.
The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. :)
I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!
nice board man! only issue is that iso layout :p
My first Korean custom board. Actually my first build ever. I would be lying if I said it was easy. Although I must say that this board was perfect for a first build. Expensive, but still a good learning experience. Initially a community member was going to build it for me as I was too much of a **** doing it myself, but he went MIA. So I ended up doing it myself. Took me several weeks due to work, family commitments, buying tools etc.
While desoldering my F9 key I managed to break a trace which really bummed me out... :( Fortunately I was able to ghetto-wire it and now it is completely functional. As a first time build and first time solder I should have gone with Cherry switches. R1 Zealios were really troublesome. About 15 switches were chattering. Some so bad it was not good for typing at all. In the process of replacing them the PCB suffered some minor superficial scratches and dents. They are hard to spot with the naked eye, but knowing they are there kinda irritates me being a perfectionist. Fortunately the PCB is hidden and they kind of only exists in my mind. I do have to admit that the problems with Zealio switches really is a result of soldering inexperience as I did know of the low melting temperature of the switch housing. Next board will be Cherry MX, just to avoid having to desolder so many switches again.
Initially I wanted to put my Retro SA set on the Orion, but found the keys to wobble way to much. Another result of using Zealio switches. It is a matter of taste as other community members have no problems with Zealios + SA keycaps. Due to this I had to divert from my initial design and installed my Granite set. The key-wobbling is now gone and the typing experience much more pleasant.
The setup is not completely finished. I am still waiting on a custom USB-cable and some other colored LEDs to spice things up. One last issue I have is the mushy space bar as others have reported. I really hope that issue will just resolve by itself as can't be bothered with more deslodering and assembly. If anyone has any suggestions on improving the feel of the space bar without desoldering, please do let me know. :)
I apologize if this post sounds complaining/ranting, not my intention. Just want to share my personal experience. Putting that aside I have to say the board is awsome! It is built like a tank, has tons of features and looks hella good. I am so glad I also ordered the angled acrylic bottom. Since I ended soldering it myself, I really should have ordered an extra PCB.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Any comments and suggestions are as always greatly appreciated. Cheers!
OMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led :p
Solid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board everOMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led :p
Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. :) This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.
Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.
Solid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board everOMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led :p
Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. :) This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.
Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.
Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos. :P
Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nQwK92z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AnMpR8og.jpg)
So here's the board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GuOjR9X.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AC3hJ8d.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iHUowkD.jpg)
My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RoEI78c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgOSrs7.jpg)
Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IarsCf3.jpg)
Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3
I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.
What do you guys thing? Good as is?
It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. :confused:
It's said that you can always improve on what you have. However, I honestly don't see how here.
It's said that you can always improve on what you have. However, I honestly don't see how here.
Thanks, FL. I think it's just a bit of all the frustration from the past weekend this took to build getting to me. Like, I was working on it from day into the early morning each day, so I'm really spent. I never thought I could get so stressed out from a keyboard build. :P
I need to work on the Lightpad next. Cool thing since it's black too, so it'll match perfectly. Then after that I think I'm taking a break, haha.
Yep white goes perfectly with blacksSolid white color! and its gonna be a dankest board everOMG E3E dat board is a beast omg. the only cons is that childish led :p
Thanks man, that definitely makes me happy to hear. :) This build has been soooo stressful, hahaha.
Yep, I think I'll either turn them off or make them a solid color or something. I haven't even programmed the firmware. I just wanted to finally finish this one, haha.
Oh, white? Good idea! That wasn't even on my mind.
Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos. :P
Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nQwK92z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AnMpR8og.jpg)
So here's the board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GuOjR9X.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AC3hJ8d.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iHUowkD.jpg)
My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RoEI78c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgOSrs7.jpg)
Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IarsCf3.jpg)
Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3
I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.
What do you guys thing? Good as is?
It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. :confused:
Hotswappable Alps Orion v2 with Alps SKCM Blue + SKCL Brown for Caps Lock and Scroll Lock with green LEDs. Dyed AT101 PBT caps. I tried dyeing two sample spacebars, but they warped easily and just came out an ugly brown, so I used Krylon Fusion on the space bar. Waiting for the paint to fully cure in a week before I mount it. I just set up up for these photos. :P
Oh right, I used Duplicolor Metalcast "Smoke" to darken the stainless steel plate:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/nQwK92z.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AnMpR8og.jpg)
So here's the board:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/GuOjR9X.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/AC3hJ8d.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/iHUowkD.jpg)
My Orion v2 possesses the power of levitation!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/RoEI78c.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/UgOSrs7.jpg)
Here you can clearly see the holtite sockets used for the hotswap mod. I'm not sure how I feel about this bottom as it makes the board feel like nothing more than a top bezel with feet, lol.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/IarsCf3.jpg)
Stealthy in the background with my first Duck in the foreground. :3
I wanted the Alphas to be a lighter greyish black, and they technically are, but I think I left them in a wee bit too long. Now it looks like I just have a BoB stealth board, which is pretty cool. I have IBM 5140 caps I could use for a piano white and black look and SGI caps I could use if I want to redo the lighter keys in that grey color I was thinking of.
What do you guys thing? Good as is?
It's been one hell of a week. The hotswap mod and this build has drained the hell out of me. :confused:
Oh man best Orion v2 so far! Hotswappable switches is such a cool feature, definitely worth the work you put in imo :thumb: The dye job on the caps look fantastic too.
The painted plate is sweet too, I saw it on a couple other builds as well but totally forgot when I put mine together :( I'll definitely have to keep it in mind for my next build. It's a really nice touch!
You've done it again! Brilliant work. Incredible board.
Amazing work as usual E3E!
I love the minimalist look of the final product and hotswappable alps too!
I'm doubting this, but would anyone happen to have a brass weight for the Orion v2 they wouldn't mind passing along? That's one of the last things I'd like for my build. I'm generally toning down my investment in the keyboard hobby a bit as it is. Just want to get the weight and then a case for the other Eagle I have and then I'm going to take a break on everything but taking assembly requests.
It's too much sometimes!
Anyway, if anyone would happen to have a brass weight for the aluminum bottom of the Orion v2 and wouldn't mind selling it, please let me know!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/2chf2f4.jpg)
Really liking the look of the "dynamic duo" as I call them. :P No more Jukebox or Cherry MX for my Lightpad now, haha.
Has anyone successfully removed the top housing using the clippers method on soldered switches on the Orion with steel plate?
Noticed the other day that 2 of my switches have a very subtle "springy" sound. I want to pop the top off and see what is going on inside. Maybe add some extra lube and/or change the springs. As soon as I tried taking the top off the plastic started to bend and would have eventually cracked if more force was applied. The top was nowhere near of coming off.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
P.S. Switches are Zealios, which are known to be a bit more sensitive.
Ah, I see. Thanks for the info.Has anyone successfully removed the top housing using the clippers method on soldered switches on the Orion with steel plate?
Noticed the other day that 2 of my switches have a very subtle "springy" sound. I want to pop the top off and see what is going on inside. Maybe add some extra lube and/or change the springs. As soon as I tried taking the top off the plastic started to bend and would have eventually cracked if more force was applied. The top was nowhere near of coming off.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
P.S. Switches are Zealios, which are known to be a bit more sensitive.
You have to desolder. The plate doesn't support switch top removal.
Super late addition to the question of plate materials for alps.
There are a couple of areas in which we can explain this: through production logistics and principles of alps switches.
Now, production is simple: less options, less cost. Since alps isn't very popular to begin with, having only one plate option is the only viable route.
Now here's a wall of text to give you a little alps crash course.
Alps also have an issue with its mounting method; it's ****. Alps switches MUST have a plate to mount to otherwise there is zero stability due to he fact that alps switches were never designed for pcb mounting; unlike MX switches which can attach to the pcb via extra legs.
This would mean that all stability would have to rely on the integrity of the plate which requires two things: distinctive mounting cutouts and a strong material.
Plates for alps cannot offer multiple layout configurations because that would imply crossover between mounting cutouts resulting in the switch not having anything to mount to on on or more sides. Unlike MX switches alps cannot compensate by also attaching itself to another component like the pcb.
Sturdiness is the other issue and is the main reason why alps plates are almost always steel. Though other materials, especially when looking at tactile switches, see benefits in acoustics and tactility, a soft material such as plastic would fail to mount the switch properly and would result in a very unsatisfactory feel and questionable integrity. Additionally, even aluminum in comparison to steel is considered quite soft and will fail to provide the most satisfactory security for mounting. Stainless steel on the other hand is the most accessible strong material out there and is the prime candidate to offer stability for misting alps switches.
TLDR: Alps switches have trash design and require a stainless steel plate to be mounted properly.
I would be more concerned for how such boards would stand the test of time.
I have alps board where several switches have become loose to the point where I could probably pull them straight out with my fingers. In fact, I had a friend who did that with every single switch of the board so effortlessly so as to not damage the switches in any significant way.
Did you try the --force option?
Did you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
Did you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
yes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
yes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
yes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
this is from filphil:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.
It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!
I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfectyes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
this is from filphil:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.
It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!
ahh aright its similar to this guide
http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx
maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.
my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.
I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfectyes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
this is from filphil:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.
It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!
ahh aright its similar to this guide
http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx
maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.
my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.
Glad you got it to work :) was a huge relief to me when I got the board to work so I'm happy if I was in any way helpful to you too!I did it that way at first and it was working for my until I did something weird and thought I bricked it. Followed the guide I linked you and it was perfectyes please I will appreciate! please and thank youDid you try the --force option?
doesn't allow me it just runs through its operations till the end
Did you get this PCB to replace your original broken one?
yeah this is the one from duck0013 I ordered like 3 months ago
but now I can't use it LOL :'(
Your error messages kinda look like mine from before and filphil was the one that helped me trouble shoot it. I ended up downloading the Amtel flip program to get it back up. If you want me to dig for his help, just let me know :)
this is from filphil:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49647.0
The steps are there. Major differences are that you'll be using the 02d software to make your hex file, hold back space to bring your orion to programming mode when you're plugging it in, and the controller chip name will be located on your pcb.
It worked for me so hopefully it can do the same for you!
ahh aright its similar to this guide
http://www.adamfalwell.com/projects/octagon/assets/-simplified-guide--duck-pcb-flash-firmware---keymapping.docx
maybe I have to do all the same steps with this new pcb.
my other orion pcb works completely fine but this new one as shown is always on flip mode.
Got it to work bro thanks!
I didn't follow the link but I started to mess around with the atmel flip program. The chip was blank so all I had to do was load the flip file into the chip. After that the board could be programmed with 02d time to build my aluminum orion!
I really wanted a weight for my Orion v2:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/w1ICPPN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wFnEoE8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I9jo4bP.jpg)
I did this all by hand with a dremel because I'm crazy (and cheap).
I still have to polish it, and I'm waiting for brass screws, but yep.
can confirm, E3E is crazy.
that's really cool though. :) are you also thinking of engraving something on it?
I really wanted a weight for my Orion v2:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/w1ICPPN.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wFnEoE8.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/I9jo4bP.jpg)
I did this all by hand with a dremel because I'm crazy (and cheap).
I still have to polish it, and I'm waiting for brass screws, but yep.
Oh man I might have to give this a shot.
Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? :eek:
Very cool :thumb: :thumb:
Oh man I might have to give this a shot.
Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? :eek:
Very cool :thumb: :thumb:
I'd go for it if I were you! Drilling the screw holes was the trickiest part (keep spraying down the part with a lubricant, it helps a ton). Cutting the .75~ inches from the width needed to make it fit was also very tedious.
It isn't perfect, but I think it still looks great! Just waiting for those brass screws now.
I used copper, since, if I couldn't get an official brass weight from Korea, I figured I'd do one better and use copper since it's heavier. The brass screws should add some weight too, haha.
I used a 12 x 4 x 1/8" plate. The recess is only 1/10th of an inch thick, but 1/8th works just fine.
Yeah, I did it all by hand. I had no idea what the CNC would cost, so I decided to just do it myself. It's hardly ever going to be seen anyway, since it's under the top, but I tried to do it as carefully as possible.
If CNC wouldn't cost much, then it wouldn't be too expensive to just have it done somewhere since the copper plate only cost $24. :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281290504531?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This is what I bought.
If you want the traditional brass look, this should work~
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-SHEET-11ga-4-x-12-x-1-8-THICK-/301743434556?hash=item46414f6b3c:g:v9QAAOSwu4BVw~wq
Oh yeah, how's your Alps Orion v2, man? Have you decided on keeping the Alps plate in the board, or do you prefer Cherry? I'm super curious to hear if we have another Alps fan here. :D You used Alps SKCL Green, right? Lovely switch. :)
Oh man I might have to give this a shot.
Did you just buy a brass block and shape it yourself? :eek:
Very cool :thumb: :thumb:
I'd go for it if I were you! Drilling the screw holes was the trickiest part (keep spraying down the part with a lubricant, it helps a ton). Cutting the .75~ inches from the width needed to make it fit was also very tedious.
It isn't perfect, but I think it still looks great! Just waiting for those brass screws now.
I used copper, since, if I couldn't get an official brass weight from Korea, I figured I'd do one better and use copper since it's heavier. The brass screws should add some weight too, haha.
I used a 12 x 4 x 1/8" plate. The recess is only 1/10th of an inch thick, but 1/8th works just fine.
Yeah, I did it all by hand. I had no idea what the CNC would cost, so I decided to just do it myself. It's hardly ever going to be seen anyway, since it's under the top, but I tried to do it as carefully as possible.
If CNC wouldn't cost much, then it wouldn't be too expensive to just have it done somewhere since the copper plate only cost $24. :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281290504531?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
This is what I bought.
If you want the traditional brass look, this should work~
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRASS-SHEET-11ga-4-x-12-x-1-8-THICK-/301743434556?hash=item46414f6b3c:g:v9QAAOSwu4BVw~wq
Oh yeah, how's your Alps Orion v2, man? Have you decided on keeping the Alps plate in the board, or do you prefer Cherry? I'm super curious to hear if we have another Alps fan here. :D You used Alps SKCL Green, right? Lovely switch. :)
so this is my near complete orion
just need sherry to replace my less than key and alt. maybe my 8 and l for the blue smudgesShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/WiJtb76.jpg)
Orion v2 Brass plate
Korean alphabet "Hangeul" = Orion
Lee Sunshin pontShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZl4qKV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7PvkTUD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJTLB8o.jpg)
Orion v2 Brass plate
Korean alphabet "Hangeul" = Orion
Lee Sunshin pontShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZl4qKV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7PvkTUD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJTLB8o.jpg)
Orion v2 Brass plateThis is cray! Now I want an Orion more than everrr
Korean alphabet "Hangeul" = Orion
Lee Sunshin pontShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZl4qKV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7PvkTUD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJTLB8o.jpg)
Orion v2 Brass plate
Korean alphabet "Hangeul" = Orion
Lee Sunshin pontShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZl4qKV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7PvkTUD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJTLB8o.jpg)
share with us man!
Orion v2 Brass plate
Korean alphabet "Hangeul" = Orion
Lee Sunshin pontShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/fZl4qKV.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/7PvkTUD.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/LJTLB8o.jpg)
share with us man!
Seems super unlikely, lol. That's why I made my own. Get one CNC'd. We already have the file for it.
WTB flat acrylic clear bottom if anyone is willing to part with theirs.Are they similar to the V1? Because I have a few of those left.
WTB flat acrylic clear bottom if anyone is willing to part with theirs.Are they similar to the V1? Because I have a few of those left.
WTB flat acrylic clear bottom if anyone is willing to part with theirs.Are they similar to the V1? Because I have a few of those left.
I think you're thinking of the acrylic side insert wedges. Alaire wants the flat acrylic bottom that you can mount the top frame/bezel onto.
The side inserts for the aluminum bottom are similar to the V1 though, but I have no idea if they'd fit perfectly or not.
Hello I just built my Orion v2 and flashed the default firmware over. Somehow the LEDs on the letters and the function rows seem to keep blinking slowly. Any idea what I should modify on the firmware? Any help much appreciated!
That's what I thought. I had some plates lasercut (check my SIG for pics of the plate) but I never got around to selling them. They were too thin to show up in between the two aluminum layer and I would have needed new screws.WTB flat acrylic clear bottom if anyone is willing to part with theirs.Are they similar to the V1? Because I have a few of those left.
I think you're thinking of the acrylic side insert wedges. Alaire wants the flat acrylic bottom that you can mount the top frame/bezel onto.
The side inserts for the aluminum bottom are similar to the V1 though, but I have no idea if they'd fit perfectly or not.
Yep, the flat acrylic bottom not the side inserts.
That's what I thought. I had some plates lasercut (check my SIG for pics of the plate) but I never got around to selling them. They were too thin to show up in between the two aluminum layer and I would have needed new screws.
I bought some a spare set of side inserts as well but I've used all of them.
Just a few more pictures:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eTslIbl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/p2k31Sr.jpg)
This is the coolest thing about the flat bottom, I think. Still, I dunno how I ultimately feel about it compared to the aluminum bottom. :P
Just a few more pictures:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/eTslIbl.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/p2k31Sr.jpg)
This is the coolest thing about the flat bottom, I think. Still, I dunno how I ultimately feel about it compared to the aluminum bottom. :P
Alright, so I found a place nearby that has a wide range of quality acrylic Bouwplastics.nl (http://www.bouwplastics.nl/webshop/plaatmateriaal) and I will ask them to make me one of the plates and a set of side-inserts.
Other than the side window dimensions (http://duck0113.tistory.com/94), the DXF-files (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_tune&document_srl=153206) and the plate drawings, what other info should I send them?
I believe the bottom plate (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_housing&document_srl=158172) was 2mm and the side windows 12mm? Will they be able to lasercut it based on just that?
Just went to pick them up.(http://i.imgur.com/ZnatxgNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ZnatxgN)
Behold, bottom plates!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aJw5j1Ch.jpg)
9 plates in total.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BbTCnxzh.jpg)
With some feetShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZMwpoYnh.jpg)
Roughly a 5 degree angle
Now I need to be patient for my orion to arrive. :P
The place where I got them told me they'd have a machine that could cut the 12mm pieces in one month.
So unless somebody else wants to pick that up in a GB I could try by then.
About the V1 acrylic plate:Alright, so I found a place nearby that has a wide range of quality acrylic Bouwplastics.nl (http://www.bouwplastics.nl/webshop/plaatmateriaal) and I will ask them to make me one of the plates and a set of side-inserts.
Other than the side window dimensions (http://duck0113.tistory.com/94), the DXF-files (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_tune&document_srl=153206) and the plate drawings, what other info should I send them?
I believe the bottom plate (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_housing&document_srl=158172) was 2mm and the side windows 12mm? Will they be able to lasercut it based on just that?Just went to pick them up.(http://i.imgur.com/ZnatxgNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ZnatxgN)
Behold, bottom plates!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aJw5j1Ch.jpg)
9 plates in total.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BbTCnxzh.jpg)
With some feetShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZMwpoYnh.jpg)
Roughly a 5 degree angle
Now I need to be patient for my orion to arrive. :P
The place where I got them told me they'd have a machine that could cut the 12mm pieces in one month.
So unless somebody else wants to pick that up in a GB I could try by then.
Again, I'm not sure these are compatible with the V2. I have a few plates left that you are welcome to try though.About the V1 acrylic plate:Alright, so I found a place nearby that has a wide range of quality acrylic Bouwplastics.nl (http://www.bouwplastics.nl/webshop/plaatmateriaal) and I will ask them to make me one of the plates and a set of side-inserts.
Other than the side window dimensions (http://duck0113.tistory.com/94), the DXF-files (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_tune&document_srl=153206) and the plate drawings, what other info should I send them?
I believe the bottom plate (http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?mid=board_housing&document_srl=158172) was 2mm and the side windows 12mm? Will they be able to lasercut it based on just that?Just went to pick them up.(http://i.imgur.com/ZnatxgNh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/ZnatxgN)
Behold, bottom plates!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/aJw5j1Ch.jpg)
9 plates in total.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/BbTCnxzh.jpg)
With some feetShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZMwpoYnh.jpg)
Roughly a 5 degree angle
Now I need to be patient for my orion to arrive. :P
The place where I got them told me they'd have a machine that could cut the 12mm pieces in one month.
So unless somebody else wants to pick that up in a GB I could try by then.
Time to order some for my duckfeet
thanks
How did you make the holes on the flat acrylic? I just got my duck feet today but I don't want to ruin my flat piece D:
ahh okay I thought you drilled the flat acrylic. hmm I don't feel too comfortable using double face tape to secure the duck feet. That might leave a sticky mess and cleaning it might result in some scratches.How did you make the holes on the flat acrylic? I just got my duck feet today but I don't want to ruin my flat piece D:
I used double-sided tape, similar to how I keep the inserts in the board and the duck feet. It's a tape meant for fabric mending and is pretty sticky but not impossible to remove. Better than double-sided scotch tape I'd say. Secure enough for using for the feet. I might make the flat acrylic bottom for drilling, but I doubt I'm doing to do that.
Damn, you're going to get a new separate bottom just for the duck feet? Crazy. :P Actually, they probably aren't that expensive, nevermind, haha.
EDIT: I read Elton mention that the tops between the Orion v2 and v1, as well as their plates, were not compatible between each other, but to be honest, the mounting holes look almost exactly the same. It's hard to say whether or not they are though.
ahh okay I thought you drilled the flat acrylic. hmm I don't feel too comfortable using double face tape to secure the duck feet. That might leave a sticky mess and cleaning it might result in some scratches.
Hey guys I missed out and really want one, when do you think there will be another GB?
ty
Very nice work with the ALPS integration into the Orion V2 (and the Octagon) E3E!
I hope to experiment with making my own flat bottom for the Octagon V2 when it arrives.
You also got me interested in the world of ALPS and I managed to snag a Zenith 100-1886 recently.
does anyone need an acrylic angled bottom? Willing to let it go for retail + shipping
Just came across this on Reddit (https://imgur.com/a/jXRIa#tXXGh8U). I think it's just a really cool idea.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/tXXGh8U.jpg)
Not sure what to use for alps PCB, contact Leeku maybe he designed it.
I also have a problem, whenever I try to save a config in 02D, it says Run time error 76 path not found.
Anyone got this problem already? I don't know how to fix :\
Just did that, now the Orion won't work or light up anymore. Was I not supposed to keep the erase box checked in FLIP? Did I just seriously **** up? :-\
Yeah I have tried various times to redo, even restarted computer. Do you have a default hex file you could share with me so I know for sure it isn't my file that is messed up? Thanks
Got it to work!!!! ;D
Turns out I wasn't reselecting the hex file after I opened USB connection :confused:
Is there any way to change the lock light colors? Mine is stuck on light blue
No I didn't mean the switch ones I meant the lock light ones. Aren't they RGB? I got mine secondhand so I don't know if they came with the kit or were sourced separately.
I have the angled acrylic bottom, so getting the right LED settings are pretty important for me. :)
I like the RGB wave mode, I might start tinkering with keymaps now, I though you had to use the o2d program to upload also, I think FLIP is better glad I don't have to use o2d for keymapping too.
If you're talking about the bottom rgb leds then you go to one of the drop down menus in o2d and then a lighting option should be accessible. From then on it should be pretty self explanatory. Save hex file with key mapping and led settings and then upload via flip.
If you're talking about the bottom rgb leds then you go to one of the drop down menus in o2d and then a lighting option should be accessible. From then on it should be pretty self explanatory. Save hex file with key mapping and led settings and then upload via flip.
Yeah that's the change that I made to the board originally when I needed help. What I am talking about are the lock lights near esc.
Also chances are doubtful of another GB with the octagon and other boards that duck is occupied with bunny. I think you will just have to wait for Orion v3...
Does anyone know if I can use the shapeways ALPS to MX stem adapters on this keyboard and use MX keys on it?
Does anyone know if I can use the shapeways ALPS to MX stem adapters on this keyboard and use MX keys on it?
yeah you could but the keys will be higher than usual.
I like very dark keys, but that contrast between black case and greyish keys is awsome. Would not have been just as nice if they were whiter. Once again, really nice setup.
Man where do you get these keycaps... So nice with either look, but I like the BoB more :thumb:
Still looking for a V2 PCB/plate combo (preferably unbuilt)! Please PM if you have a spare you don't plan on using!I have a pcb and steel plate
Anyone know if any Orion v1 parts are interchangeable with Orion v2? Plate/PCB, bottom, etc.
anyone want to trade an Orion V2 for an Octagon V2?
anyone want to trade an Orion V2 for an Octagon V2?
Pm'd :)
Anyone know if any Orion v1 parts are interchangeable with Orion v2? Plate/PCB, bottom, etc.
They are not.
"Orion V2 PCB and plate will not fit into Orion V1 and vice versa. Won't fit Kingsaver as well." - elton5354
Source (this thread) (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70864.msg1713200#msg1713200)
anyone want to trade an Orion V2 for an Octagon V2?
Pm'd :)
to clarify: i have an octagon for trade :thumb:
Anyone know if any Orion v1 parts are interchangeable with Orion v2? Plate/PCB, bottom, etc.
They are not.
"Orion V2 PCB and plate will not fit into Orion V1 and vice versa. Won't fit Kingsaver as well." - elton5354
Source (this thread) (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70864.msg1713200#msg1713200)
Actually they are largely interchangeable, the only thing that doesn't work between the two is the V1 plate, which doesn't fit in the V2 top. The LEDs are in different spots between V1 and V2 but if you just care about something to type on, they work fine.
I want to make a weight for my friend but can't find the CAD files for the bottom piece anywhere, I've messaged elton already (he hasn't been on though), but if someone can help me that'd be great. :thumb:
I have that file, I just don't know the thickness so that's all I need :pI want to make a weight for my friend but can't find the CAD files for the bottom piece anywhere, I've messaged elton already (he hasn't been on though), but if someone can help me that'd be great. :thumb:
idk if this is what you need but there's this
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I believe it's 3mm. Same as octagon. I would pm Merlin to checkI have that file, I just don't know the thickness so that's all I need :pI want to make a weight for my friend but can't find the CAD files for the bottom piece anywhere, I've messaged elton already (he hasn't been on though), but if someone can help me that'd be great. :thumb:
idk if this is what you need but there's this
http://kbdlab.co.kr/index.php?document_srl=3088888&mid=board_housing
I'm also interested in getting an Orion V2, how about another group buy??
Just FYI--the A87 spec PCBs fit in the Orion v2 (I built some internals with a steel plate + TX87 PCB. :thumb:
Just FYI--the A87 spec PCBs fit in the Orion v2 (I built some internals with a steel plate + TX87 PCB. :thumb:
Thanks for the tip. So would this fit? http://www.gonskeyboardworks.com/manuals/131-nerd-pcbs.html
Hey Guys, I was planning on replacing the screws for the alu base of my orion v2. Does anyone know which exact ones i need?
I guess the ones for the front are T10 and for the back T8/9? :-\
My screws show quite a bit of wear, so I want to replace them. :-X
Thanks for your help lads! ;D
They are hex indeed. I feel a bit dumb. :-[
No wonder it is hard to open the case with a torx driver when the screws are hex! I am not sure how I assembled it back then without the right screw driver.
And thank you very much for the size of the small ones!
I will get some V-Shaped 6mm M3 Hex screws for that.
It would be really awesome if you could tell me the size of the back ones as well!
I'm in your debt! :)
I think I have fried half of my orion :'(
While desoldering the ' switch's sip socket (had to replace the whole switch because it was sticky), I pulled part of the pcbs socket for the sip socket out as well. After installing a brand new switch with sip sockets and soldering it, I noticed that none of the LEDs in the third row, left and including the ' key, were lit up. Also the three left bottom SMD RGB LEDs were malfunctioning. One glimmering and vigorously switching to random colours, the others not lighting up at all. So I guess I have broken half of my orion. Unless you guys have any recommendations on how to fix it.
The typing itself works fine. Its just the lighting that is broken.
Otherwise I would like to maybe get a pcb from someone here who has a spare. I would be really happy to hear from someone!
I ruined my board as well which is why I asked for a pcb and plate :-\
edit: actually I ruined it quite a while back I've just been too embarrassed to mention it :p :p :p
anyways you are having the same problems as everyone who has encountered this issue with flashing rgb leds. It is a design flaw in the pcb. Here is the fix for the rgb led's. I am not sure what is wrong with your led's not turning on. If you can take a photo I can help youShow Image(http://i.imgur.com/ztMk8kh.jpg)
The issue comes from the (+) copper hole on the led. This specific hole is easily prone to damage when desoldered and it stops the flow of current. To repair this issue you need to solder a small wire from the capacitor to the (+) pad, this should fix your issue. The led's not turning on might be the result of another damaged pad. Please take a photo and i can probably lead you to a fix.
special thanks to 02d who gave me this info