Ron, any chance we can get a link to what the previous run looked like somewhere in the OP? It might help make sense of some of the list items -- eg. relocating D160.
* 100% through-hole constructions, so no advanced equipment or skills are needed to successfully build it.
Suggestion/Wish: add some images to this thread of the first version!
[REQUESTED FEATURE]
Split spacebar options
eg(row: 1'5, 1, 1'5, 1, 2'25, 1, 2'75, 1'5, 1, 1'5)
eg(1'5, 1, 1'5, 1, 1'25, 1'25, 1'25, 1'25, 1, 1'5, 1, 1'5)
Sure, awesome!
The Phantom 7BIT is an example for an no-stabilizer design
(split backspace, split shifts and an split ANSI enter (1u+1, 25u)
here is an pic of an 7bit phantom
https://deskthority.net/photos-f62/red-alert-otaku-rgb-moba-7bit-otd-phantom-with-clack-t4017.html
i couldnt source an phantom plate, so I went with an clueboard meanwhile
https://www.dropbox.com/s/amij1ccptq5a8x3/20161215_194329.jpg?dl=0
With reduced you mean the F122 alike board, or?
on my clueboard its just handy to have
layer2, enter/layer1, space+layer3
in reach.
it is damn comfortable to have arrows in home row which are on the layer (so not much movement.
i agree - finding bindings for all keys can be hard, but atleast thoss not that often used keys get an extra key which I dont have to remember..
OFFTOPIC:
Whats up with the gh36/pad?
is there any possibility to get one?
With reduced you mean the F122 alike board, or?
on my clueboard its just handy to have
layer2, enter/layer1, space+layer3
in reach.
it is damn comfortable to have arrows in home row which are on the layer (so not much movement.
i agree - finding bindings for all keys can be hard, but atleast thoss not that often used keys get an extra key which I dont have to remember..
OFFTOPIC:
Whats up with the gh36/pad?
is there any possibility to get one?
Good points. Thanks.
The GH36 is behind this one.
- Ron | samwisekoi
With reduced you mean the F122 alike board, or?
on my clueboard its just handy to have
layer2, enter/layer1, space+layer3
in reach.
it is damn comfortable to have arrows in home row which are on the layer (so not much movement.
i agree - finding bindings for all keys can be hard, but atleast thoss not that often used keys get an extra key which I dont have to remember..
OFFTOPIC:
Whats up with the gh36/pad?
is there any possibility to get one?
Good points. Thanks.
The GH36 is behind this one.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Devil's advocate: If you want to not move your hands much, why on earth get a 122 key keyboard?
For me the draw to this board is the size and the novelty, not the efficiency. Putting effort into making the extra keys even more redundant feels like neutering the beast.
I dont mind moving my hands..
Its just easier for me to have some arrows on the left side, eg while using the right hand for the mouse
This MASSIVE board has lots of keys for eg shortcuts - nevertheless the option for adding some more keys (which also increases ergonomic IMHO (speaking of spit space)) is gokd
I dont mind moving my hands..
Its just easier for me to have some arrows on the left side, eg while using the right hand for the mouse
This MASSIVE board has lots of keys for eg shortcuts - nevertheless the option for adding some more keys (which also increases ergonomic IMHO (speaking of spit space)) is gokd
I dont mind moving my hands..
Its just easier for me to have some arrows on the left side, eg while using the right hand for the mouse
This MASSIVE board has lots of keys for eg shortcuts - nevertheless the option for adding some more keys (which also increases ergonomic IMHO (speaking of spit space)) is gokd
I guess I just can't understand why you are trying to make a F122 more ergonomic :))
Ultimately it's Ron's call, I am not trying to block features being added :thumb:
A split version?! Hahaha that would be so crazy.I dont mind moving my hands..
Its just easier for me to have some arrows on the left side, eg while using the right hand for the mouse
This MASSIVE board has lots of keys for eg shortcuts - nevertheless the option for adding some more keys (which also increases ergonomic IMHO (speaking of spit space)) is gokd
I guess I just can't understand why you are trying to make a F122 more ergonomic :))
Ultimately it's Ron's call, I am not trying to block features being added :thumb:
Phhht, I'd totally be in for a split GH-122 board if the price wasn't insane
Split into how many pieces?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Ron, what's driving the format change to 0.375" gutters? Has someone requested this?
Split into how many pieces?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Split into how many pieces?
- Ron | samwisekoi
So long as I have the option for 6 on the left, however many you want. Two is the common ergo split though a detachable numpad would be interesting. However, that gets us into quite the complicated if rather modular board.
Split into how many pieces?
- Ron | samwisekoi
So long as I have the option for 6 on the left, however many you want. Two is the common ergo split though a detachable numpad would be interesting. However, that gets us into quite the complicated if rather modular board.
So VE.A: Command and Control Edition :))
I think we were more joking around on the split though. The hilarity of a split/tented 122 board would be incredible, though. We'll save it for once it's simply built by some production company and we can just buy the end result ;)
Getting started.
Below are the 2016 as-manufactured PCB and a snapshot of the current state of the 2017 PCB.
Posting only for the very interested. Multi-layer and backwards reading skills required!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I am working on Alps-compatibility. All of the alphas, function keys, nav, and 1x numpad switch positions are done. Some traces needed to be moved, but no big deal.
However, because Alps' leads are at the same height, they conflict with each other and with MX switch pads everywhere there are multiple switch positions available.
My goal is to provide ANSI plus extra function keys for Alps users. But here is an example of a switch position where one of the Alps leads shorts out the MX switch:
(Attachment Link)
GH-122 Caps Switch showing Alps conflict with MX pads. Alps lead holes shown in grey.
Because the left-hand Alps lead hole is directly between positive and negative MX pads, I have two options:
A. Force Alps users to use a stepped Caps key, which eliminates the conflict.
B. Drill a blank hole for the left-hand Alps lead (no pad), forcing the builder to jump the switch lead to one of the MX pads WITHOUT shorting the lead to the other MX pad. This is the option shown in the example.
Alps-compatibility is one of the most-requested enhancements, so I am trying to deliver that.But the example problem shown is minor compared with the problems in the spacebar row.
Anyhow, I don't mean to whine about the issue; I just want to show an example of why the first version didn't have Alps-compatibility, and why it is so hard to deliver.
[EDIT] Okay, an ANSI spacebar row in Alps was not horrible. Really the only nasty position is the Caps key, and there are really only the two options listed above. I went with option B, but could easily switch to option A if the Alps-folk preferred it.
Anyhow, below is the current state of the design with Alps-switched fully supported for ANSI plus extra function keys.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I am working on Alps-compatibility. All of the alphas, function keys, nav, and 1x numpad switch positions are done. Some traces needed to be moved, but no big deal.
However, because Alps' leads are at the same height, they conflict with each other and with MX switch pads everywhere there are multiple switch positions available.
My goal is to provide ANSI plus extra function keys for Alps users. But here is an example of a switch position where one of the Alps leads shorts out the MX switch:
(Attachment Link)
GH-122 Caps Switch showing Alps conflict with MX pads. Alps lead holes shown in grey.
Because the left-hand Alps lead hole is directly between positive and negative MX pads, I have two options:
A. Force Alps users to use a stepped Caps key, which eliminates the conflict.
B. Drill a blank hole for the left-hand Alps lead (no pad), forcing the builder to jump the switch lead to one of the MX pads WITHOUT shorting the lead to the other MX pad. This is the option shown in the example.
Alps-compatibility is one of the most-requested enhancements, so I am trying to deliver that.But the example problem shown is minor compared with the problems in the spacebar row.
Anyhow, I don't mean to whine about the issue; I just want to show an example of why the first version didn't have Alps-compatibility, and why it is so hard to deliver.
[EDIT] Okay, an ANSI spacebar row in Alps was not horrible. Really the only nasty position is the Caps key, and there are really only the two options listed above. I went with option B, but could easily switch to option A if the Alps-folk preferred it.
Anyhow, below is the current state of the design with Alps-switched fully supported for ANSI plus extra function keys.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I remember some alps custom pcb having uncommon positions upside down. Could that be used here?
For the alphas you can only rotate them 180 degrees.I remember some alps custom pcb having uncommon positions upside down. Could that be used here?
In general, no, because it interferes with the LED pads. Worse, the CAPS LED is fully wired for use as an indicator, e.g. with a windowed keycap. In some cases this can work; the numpad vertical 2x positions use this method.
Having said that, I had not looked at the CAPS position with rotation in mind, but I'll try various combinations. Thanks for the idea.
Oh, wait. Can an Alps keycap be used with a switch rotated 90 degrees? I think not. (Please correct me if I am wrong!)
I'll play with this, but I don't want to give up an LED for windowed keycaps to fix this problem.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
p.s. Crap. Does this also mean I have to orient all Alps switches horizontally? Those numpad positions aren't...
[REQEUESTED FEATURE]
Split spacebar optionseg(row: 1'5, 1, 1'5, 1, 2'25, 1, 2'75, 1'5, 1, 1'5)eg(1'5, 1, 1'5, 1, 1'25, 1'25, 1'25, 1'25, 1, 1'5, 1, 1'5)
Only 180 degree orientation changes are allowed for alps.
Alps vertical numpad 2u positions do need the stem rotating 90 degrees (like you have it), but in not sure if this is an absolute rule or just the general case. A seasoned Alps user will have to verify.
thanks!
From the image it looks more like 1.5u keys (but probably that's just me who cant read pcbs well enough) in the bottom row.
Out of interest: Is something (with LeftArrowCluster) possible?
1, 1. 1, X, 1, 1.50, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1, 1.50, 1, 1.50
(Where X is 1 or 1.25u)
A note to others for split spacebars:
My left thumb is under V in home position
Out of interest: Is something (with LeftArrowCluster) possible?
1, 1. 1, X, 1, 1.50, 1, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1.25, 1, 1.50, 1, 1.50
So 1u fits?
I need to calculate inch some time
I don't really see a lot of value moving to the wider gutters and abandoning the Unicomp as one of the cheaper case alternatives. But it's your design. Show us what you have in mind. Maybe there's some sweet trick with the 1.5u mods that we haven't considered yet?
For the record, it was no more or less difficult for me to draw 0.340" and 0.330" gutters over 0.375" gutters when I designed the case I'm currently using. /shrug
I don't really see a lot of value moving to the wider gutters and abandoning the Unicomp as one of the cheaper case alternatives. But it's your design. Show us what you have in mind. Maybe there's some sweet trick with the 1.5u mods that we haven't considered yet?
For the record, it was no more or less difficult for me to draw 0.340" and 0.330" gutters over 0.375" gutters when I designed the case I'm currently using. /shrug
I agree. The only reason to change is to add keycaps across the gaps. And doing that at the cost of abandoning the $20 Unicomp case seems to be a bad idea.
However, this is an Interest Check thread, and if eleventy-seven people had endorsed the change, I'd listen. You can see the changes I have made, and so far, this isn't one of them.
- Ron | samwisekoi
So that feeling on my leg was it getting pulled? Hmmph. And even so, I got the 6 wrong? Sigh.
I'll look at the keypad split-outs, however.
Happy Saturday!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
As for the 6, I think that ends up a religious battle though I'm a 6-on-the-left proponent so I was ribbing you a bit on that piece. As it stands, the 6 was more for gaming as I make heavy use of it in WoW but might consider just a flat gaming keyboard for that and leave the split to handle work if it came down to that.
OK...
Gun to my head, this is how I would split up the GH-122.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/enmbkum.png)
3 pieces: Left, Right, Numpad. For the record I think it's just a silly idea for an already comically-oversized board.
OK...
Gun to my head, this is how I would split up the GH-122.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/enmbkum.png)
3 pieces: Left, Right, Numpad. For the record I think it's just a silly idea for an already comically-oversized board.
Only 180 degree orientation changes are allowed for alps.Alps vertical numpad 2u positions do need the stem rotating 90 degrees (like you have it), but in not sure if this is an absolute rule or just the general case. A seasoned Alps user will have to verify.
Can someone authoritative weigh in on this point? I can rotate the numpad vertical either way, but not both
Only 180 degree orientation changes are allowed for alps.Alps vertical numpad 2u positions do need the stem rotating 90 degrees (like you have it), but in not sure if this is an absolute rule or just the general case. A seasoned Alps user will have to verify.
Can someone authoritative weigh in on this point? I can rotate the numpad vertical either way, but not both
Like so?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WIaaTOT.jpg)
All of my alps boards are like this btw, With the exception of one with the 2x1u's in the numpad which are placed normally
http://imgur.com/a/n89R1
Could you also add split option like this?
(I am mainly asking for left, right, nav, numpad)
The blue lines are just the positions were one could cut the extra keys off
This might turn out to be one hell of a monster. I am excite.
This might turn out to be one hell of a monster. I am excite.
I'm pretty sure it will. Shaping up nicely. (Clackasorous? Velocomech? Printed Circuit Bruiser?)
Couldn't make it happen without a full re-layout. That MAY happen at some point in the future, but for now, the board will include the numpad.
There are still some things I need to do with the controller section, but this is what the board will physically be for 2017.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Physical final version! Is the USB in the same spot? Is a public .step or .dwg (etc) file possible?
to bad that the numpad is out for now, nevertheless I really like that you are going all-in on adding more features!
One thing I'm wondering is if there's any chance of adding support for an RGB strip. I know RGB is a meme, but with QMK being able to control strips, it feels kinda wasteful to not have a simple underglow available for the banging acrylic bottom case I'll more than likely be commissioning.
One thing I'm wondering is if there's any chance of adding support for an RGB strip. I know RGB is a meme, but with QMK being able to control strips, it feels kinda wasteful to not have a simple underglow available for the banging acrylic bottom case I'll more than likely be commissioning.
How many pins does it take? Can you point me to a thread with some design details?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
One thing I'm wondering is if there's any chance of adding support for an RGB strip. I know RGB is a meme, but with QMK being able to control strips, it feels kinda wasteful to not have a simple underglow available for the banging acrylic bottom case I'll more than likely be commissioning.
How many pins does it take? Can you point me to a thread with some design details?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
One thing I'm wondering is if there's any chance of adding support for an RGB strip. I know RGB is a meme, but with QMK being able to control strips, it feels kinda wasteful to not have a simple underglow available for the banging acrylic bottom case I'll more than likely be commissioning.
How many pins does it take? Can you point me to a thread with some design details?
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
The WS2812 led strip takes 3 pins: VCC, GND, and a single data pin. There is information and a datasheet here https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12025. Some info about using the strip can also be found partway down this page https://github.com/jackhumbert/qmk_firmware/wiki under "RGB Under Glow Mod".
Okay, fine.
I said it would take a complete re-route of the controller and all the row/column feed traces to provide a removable numpad. So fine. I did that, and here it is.
Version 2.0 of the GH-122.2017 now with:This does mean a complete QA and test run will be required, but hey. What are you gonna do?
- Modular numpad.
- Pads for backlight circuit.
- Pads for addressable RGB LED strips.
Done for the night, me.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Well damn, that's a rather pleasant surprise. You're creating quite the monster here.
said it would take a complete re-route of the controller and all the row/column feed traces to provide a removable numpad. So fine. I did that, and here it is.
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Man, this keeps getting better and better. I'm basically committed at this point, just have to work on finding a set with enough row correct caps to cover it. Maybe find some nice cherry profile relegendables if they exist.
An general question regarding the Upper-bank-jumpering:
can I jumper the complete upper two rows (eg usage in the unicomp case)?
Is it possible to make these areas (F-blocks) detachable (via sockets) or is this technically not possible?
(meaning the case if the F-KEY-Module is not attached)
Adding all of that optionality for cutting the board into segments isn't going to compromise the structural integrity of the PCB for those of us that want it to stay together right?
Adding all of that optionality for cutting the board into segments isn't going to compromise the structural integrity of the PCB for those of us that want it to stay together right?
All it's doing is adding silkscreen guidelines and some pinholes to solder to, so there should be no change in the structure.
Are there any photos you would be willing to share of the reference case prototype?
Looks like a fun project, especially with RGB capabilities. what's the distances between the switch outlines and the edge of the mounting holes? Wondering if I could do a hipro case using the PCB itself as a layer of the case, so keeping the outer dimensions the same as the PCB itself. It's kinda funny trying to keep the size down on a board this size, but it'd be clean to the PCB.
The mounting holes are .125" in diameter and .125" in from the edges. You can absolutely make such a case, but please wait for me to publish a physical specification/drawing before you do.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
OK, two rounds of QA completed. #1 was a check for shorts at each Teensy pin. #2 was to clean-up some of the issues discovered by the PCB analysis tool. (Keyboard PCBs have lots of "special features" that look like errors; I just fixed the errors that ARE errors!)
Anyhow, this looks like the final PCB layout. As it stands, a test run of qty=10 will be $70+/- USD each. I'm not ready for that yet, but soon.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Anyhow, this looks like the final PCB layout. As it stands, a test run of qty=10 will be $70+/- USD each. I'm not ready for that yet, but soon.
I (still) have problems getting it - the numpad is choppable.
how many traces do I need to jumper if I want to enable
board w/o numpad
->jumpered to an say TRRS socket
->to the external numpad pcb
One question, and it may seem insignificant to some, but do you get to choose the colors of the PCB/screen printed legends/guides on it? I am not going to miss this second run after wishing so badly I could have gotten one of the first ones, but I am going to put the PCB on display in my collection until I have a case built for it, and am more comfortable with assembly so that it gets my best work, not my learning work.. will any consideration be put toward the aesthetic value of the PCB?
I (still) have problems getting it - the numpad is choppable.
how many traces do I need to jumper if I want to enable
board w/o numpad
->jumpered to an say TRRS socket
->to the external numpad pcb
The GH-122 is best enjoyed with the maximum number of switches one can tolerate.
It's really a celebration of excessive inputs.
Any idea when we'll be able to throw money at you for this? I don't want to seem impatient, but I'm getting antsy for a build.
Once that is done, I will do a test run of 10 Beta PCBs, and if my testing works, will ship the others (possibly along with flat-pack case components) to 5 or more experienced builders in the US to prove the v.2 design. (The US thing is only for postage reasons, including tracking and customs.)
Once that is done, I will do a test run of 10 Beta PCBs, and if my testing works, will ship the others (possibly along with flat-pack case components) to 5 or more experienced builders in the US to prove the v.2 design. (The US thing is only for postage reasons, including tracking and customs.)
If you're taking applications, I'd like to put my hat in the ring. Reworking and diagnosing keyboards doesn't scare me (anymore) and I've got experience building the following:
* Let's Split v2
* Ergodox
* Phantom
* Several other PCB kits including ZZ96, VE.A, and B.87
I also ported QMK to the Phantom, the Tada68, and cleaned up the code on Satan GH60 and Let's Split. I'd like to port QMK to this.
A brief update...
I've received the parts for my planned case, and unfortunately the 3D-printed frame has the same straightness issue you'd expect in something shaped exactly like two 20" PBT spacebars. Or a jumbo banana. <sigh> It is currently buried under a couple of pieces of thick sheet metal as I try to coax it into straightness.
In which way is Soarers better than QMK?
For me I think QMK istm is better, as it features tap-dance keys..
Sorry, just getting excited lol, Both Soarers and QMK are great choices, but i probably would lean to QMK since i may want to add RGB underglow to my build
Tempted to see if I could get someone like 1up or SwitchSmith to make a custom sized sleeve for it and see their reactions.
Note that EasyAVR only works with a custom keymap file (patch) unless Metalliqaz steps in to resolve the pinout issues in the current live version (2.03.01, now 9 months old).
Then we will have at least one working firmware generator.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I used Soarer's in my 2016 GH-122. It actually has a mild issue in that the compiler can't handle config lines >320 or so characters. You can get there on a row with a lot of media keys and UNDEFINEDs; you end up filling dead spots with siingle letters to make it fit.
pin D6: Hmmm. Thanks for the feedback. That is very useful. It works fine for Easy Keymap, but let me see what I can do for the Soarer crowd.
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I expect to be ready to publish a prototype drawing in about a week. And probably more information about the prototype run as well.!!!!!!!!!!
Pre-production PCB layout.
Several notes:
1. Interior mounting holes and cut-lines are not final, and therefore not shown.
2. What is shown is final.
3. Teensy++ 2.0 circuit board and mini B USB connector are centered over column 22.
4. LED holes are centered over column 24, and are centered on the mid-line between rows A and B, and placed on 0.375" centers.
5. All mounting holes are 0.125" in diameter or ~3mm.
6. All LED holes are 0.250" in diameter or ~6mm.
7. Exterior dimensions of the PCB are nominal. Cases should allow for 1/16" (1.5mm) extra room outside of each edge for slightly oversize PCB cuts.
Drawing is in inches.
Hope this helps. A more complete drawing or set of drawings will be available after the pre-production run at the latest.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
The wise man would wait until Monday before cutting metal or plastic.
That's all I'm saying...
- Ron | samwisekoi
The wise man would wait until Monday before cutting metal or plastic.CNY restricts any physical progress :'(
That's all I'm saying...
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Attachment Link)
Potato pic from https://www.instagram.com/samwisekoi/
GH-122.2017 custom #keyboard with a full set of 150 custom keycaps from @wasdkeyboards. #geekhack
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Attachment Link)
Potato pic from https://www.instagram.com/samwisekoi/
GH-122.2017 custom #keyboard with a full set of 150 custom keycaps from @wasdkeyboards. #geekhack
- Ron | samwisekoi
(Attachment Link)
Potato pic from https://www.instagram.com/samwisekoi/
GH-122.2017 custom #keyboard with a full set of 150 custom keycaps from @wasdkeyboards. #geekhack
- Ron | samwisekoi
I'll just leave this here...That's a hell of a minimal case!
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
I'll just leave this here...
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Is the RCTRL caps 1.25u? It looks alike, because of that small gap - am I wrong?
Here's a question now that you've got a built one to test with. What is the fit of the switch legs in the PCB holes? I know some PCBs have a really snug grip on the legs and others are easier to work with. I know I could always snip the legs since I only do plate builds, but I prefer the extra rigidity they give, especially for clicky switches.
Interested to see where the case options go for this version. We were kind of trailblazing in the first round.
Thanks. My only regret is the way I mounted the Teensy causes the USB port to be so low relative to the PCB that the entire case has to be fairly tall to accommodate it. Allowing for a bulky-ish USB connector/cable (I have 4mm clearance at the moment) means the bottom standoffs are 3/4" and the entire case sits a full 1-1/4" off the desk. She's nearly as tall as she is wide. :))
Looks like SketchUp. :cool:
Looks like SketchUp. :cool:
Probably, but if he knows what he's doing then it's whatever.
(http://i.imgur.com/MhY7Cagl.png) (http://i.imgur.com/MhY7Cag.png)
Took me forever in Inkscape to get this plate setup, so it's probably better to let him deal with the 3d design.
Am I correct this will work in an IBM F-122 case?
Am I correct this will work in an IBM F-122 case?
Hmmm. An original IBM F-122 case? Probably. I can measure mine to see if the gutter spacing is correct, but unless I take my F-122 apart (which I won't) I cannot promise there is enough interior space.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Man, I wish I knew about this before the PCB orders went in. Would love to be typing on this bad boy right now :thumb:
When would the estimated GB date be?
Man, I wish I knew about this before the PCB orders went in. Would love to be typing on this bad boy right now :thumb:
You do know about this before the PCB orders will go in.
I am am typing this on last year's model.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122(2016) keyboard.
(I'm looking at you, Phenix!)
TL;DR I built the first proto case, know where the proto PCB mounting holes will go, and am ready to do a limited edition first run.
Have some mounting dimensions.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Are my eyes playing tricks on me or does this support a split space?
✓[REQUESTED FEATURE] Split spacebar.
Are my eyes playing tricks on me or does this support a split space?
Read the OP.✓[REQUESTED FEATURE] Split spacebar.
:thumb:
Now that I have the proto mounting holes decided, I can update the CAD files, create some documentation, and launch the first buy. FYI, I really want the first five keyboards to actually get built, so they will only be available in partial kit form. And since some of the most involved people in this thread have been outside of the US, I'll be open to exceptions to the USPS Priority Mail rule. (I'm looking at you, Phenix!)
Now that I have the proto mounting holes decided, I can update the CAD files, create some documentation, and launch the first buy. FYI, I really want the first five keyboards to actually get built, so they will only be available in partial kit form. And since some of the most involved people in this thread have been outside of the US, I'll be open to exceptions to the USPS Priority Mail rule. (I'm looking at you, Phenix!)
So there will be two portions to the buy? 5 kits, and unlimited PCBs afterwards?
OK, I think the test build kit will be approx. $155 USD plus shipping and any taxes.
Well, given the resounding lack of "Hurrah!" the test kit received, I am open to alternatives for the first edition/test PCBs. To keep my exposure down, I want to buy no more than ten first run PCBs. And, I want to be certain that at least five people will build part of that run.
My intent in offering the kit was to reduce the complexity of early adoption so people would actually build the things. But if five people wanted just the PCBs, and would build them at least enough for testing, I'd be fine with that as well.
The white-on-black look is how all of my PCBs are made. I'd accept polite suggestions, but no promises.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Just out of curiosity, what is the Acrylic Spacer? Could it not just be base>PCB>Top plate?
Well, given the resounding lack of "Hurrah!" the test kit received, I am open to alternatives for the first edition/test PCBs. To keep my exposure down, I want to buy no more than ten first run PCBs. And, I want to be certain that at least five people will build part of that run.
My intent in offering the kit was to reduce the complexity of early adoption so people would actually build the things. But if five people wanted just the PCBs, and would build them at least enough for testing, I'd be fine with that as well.
The white-on-black look is how all of my PCBs are made. I'd accept polite suggestions, but no promises.
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Hi, any news about this project?
I'll just leave this here...
- Ron | samwisekoi
Auto-typed by my GH-122 keyboard.
Only 180 degree orientation changes are allowed for alps.Alps vertical numpad 2u positions do need the stem rotating 90 degrees (like you have it), but in not sure if this is an absolute rule or just the general case. A seasoned Alps user will have to verify.
Can someone authoritative weigh in on this point? I can rotate the numpad vertical either way, but not both
Like so?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/WIaaTOT.jpg)
All of my alps boards are like this btw, With the exception of one with the 2x1u's in the numpad which are placed normally
The case is from the Monarch Keyboard seen here https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75786.0
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/wwyrgg2.png)
I'd rock this layout hard
Never expected to see split stuff, but will be interesting making cases for them.