Upgraded to Windows 11 from 10 - Start menu, file explorer not working.

[Naweo]

I tried several hotfixes. Restart, end process, etc. Nothing seems to work. It boots windows normally and loads startup apps, but it can't allow me to enter start menu, or file explorer.

I wanted to revert back to windows 10 but I can't access system restore.

What is weird is that the start menu looks like windows 10, and not windows 11.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

___________________

Edit:

- Inside "PC health" I managed to find somehow, I tried to "open windows update" and it says:

"Ms-settings_windowsupdate package not registered"

I feel like windows update - finally allowing me windows 11 - completely destroyed my windows.

Edit:

I tried the sfc /scannow. It found corrupted files, replaced them, I restarted, same problems.

Also tired the dism /online cleanup image restorhealth - No luck.

Edit:

I also managed to climb into system restore somehow. Everything else still buggy. Explorer not working, can't access windows update, anything. But when I found system restore, it says windows 7..??

Microsoft really ****ed me up this time.

https://i.gyazo.com/22ff6eb9775e25c1a045042be82d8dc4.png

[Leslieann]

Backup your data, do a refresh either saving or not saving your data.

BUT
Before you do ANY of that, even the backup, check your SMART stats on your hard drive.
If you have corrected and worse, uncorrected errors, start with a manual backup first of your docs/ pics FIRST then browser data, then a general backup or image. Do NOT go right to disk image because if the drive is failing it could fail before you finish. If you do have unccorrected errors the drive is DYING (corrected means it's on the way), it's not if but when, in which case I would still do the refresh but keep in mind you need to do regular backups often because the it may be the last time it boots.

What you experienced is why many, many experts never upgrade, always do a fresh install. luckily it's easier today with the system refresh, which is good, but still not AS good.
Unfortunately the system may be fine, you may to a refresh and still have problems, Win10 and 11 are both terrible regarding updates since MS stopped bothering to do adequate testing prior to release of patches (they use virtual systems not actual hardware for testing).

Also note, if you do a refresh, I'm not sure if it will still allow a rollback to Win10, it may mess up that option, it could also not fix the problem. In which case you may want to prep a USB stick with either Win10 or Win11 install ISO. May also want to prep a Linux USB stick (Mint Linux?) so you can get back in and use the system or grab data if necessary, they are always handy to have around in case of problems. Personally I always keep a Windows install stick and Linux stick handy.

How much of this you want to do is up to you, but this is how I handle it on customer systems.

[Naweo]

Sorry I have trouble doing anything. Do you mean crystaldisk info for smart?

I have 4 drives. Crystaldiskinfo says:

100%
"good"
46%
96%

The windows installation is on the 46% drive. I did make a backup once, though long time ago, and have backed up files reguklarly.

Will try googling what system refresh is now.

I just think its weird this happened only after installing windows 11. Doesn't feel like a drive problem. But I see what you're saying.

So:

1. Many picture dumps of every drive (or just the windows installation drive) of which I have files and things I need to make backup of?
2. Then do disk image with macriumreflect to do a full C drive backup
3. Refresh and pray to god
4. If all else fails, fresh windows install

[suicidal_orange]

Installing Windows is a lot of work for the drive (downloading the update then reading and writing while extracting it) so that could have pushed it over the edge.  46% healthy does not sound good

I've never used Crystaldisk but for SMART status there should be lots of lines with min max and current values, you need to look at the ones that have similar names to what Leslieann wrote rather than than summary percentage, especially a percentage which can randomly be "good" instead.

[Naweo]

https://i.gyazo.com/140ad4753d733412d6c743a47e185e38.png

This is what I am looking at.

Reported uncorrectable errors 100/100?

https://i.gyazo.com/b770bcb99443a6f6d67a105e274514d7.png

I am doing a manual backup with pictures of as much as I can anyway.

[suicidal_orange]

The only thing that's not perfect in that pic is the percent lifetime used which could be the 46% summary at the top.  The threshold is the value when the drive thinks it's dead and the raw values count the occurrences so you have a lot of zeros meaning 100% health.

My Raw Read Error and Seek Error show a less healthy example:

Code: [Select]

ID# ATTRIBUTE_NAME          FLAG     VALUE WORST THRESH TYPE      UPDATED  WHEN_FAILED RAW_VALUE
  1 Raw_Read_Error_Rate     0x000f   082   065   006    Pre-fail  Always       -       188095678
  3 Spin_Up_Time            0x0003   097   096   000    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  4 Start_Stop_Count        0x0032   091   091   020    Old_age   Always       -       9413
  5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct   0x0033   100   100   010    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  7 Seek_Error_Rate         0x000f   066   060   045    Pre-fail  Always       -       4689573
  9 Power_On_Hours          0x0032   092   092   000    Old_age   Always       -       7176
 10 Spin_Retry_Count        0x0013   100   100   097    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
 12 Power_Cycle_Count       0x0032   097   097   020    Old_age   Always       -       3147
183 Runtime_Bad_Block       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
184 End-to-End_Error        0x0032   100   100   099    Old_age   Always       -       0
187 Reported_Uncorrect      0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
188 Command_Timeout         0x0032   100   099   000    Old_age   Always       -       2 2 2
189 High_Fly_Writes         0x003a   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
190 Airflow_Temperature_Cel 0x0022   074   056   040    Old_age   Always       -       26 (Min/Max 19/26)
193 Load_Cycle_Count        0x0032   096   096   000    Old_age   Always       -       9471
194 Temperature_Celsius     0x0022   026   010   000    Old_age   Always       -       26 (0 10 0 0 0)
195 Hardware_ECC_Recovered  0x001a   004   002   000    Old_age   Always       -       188095678
197 Current_Pending_Sector  0x0012   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
198 Offline_Uncorrectable   0x0010   100   100   000    Old_age   Offline      -       0
199 UDMA_CRC_Error_Count    0x003e   200   200   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
240 Head_Flying_Hours       0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       1323h+03m+53.253s
241 Total_LBAs_Written      0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       4103870649
242 Total_LBAs_Read         0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       2733114427

[Naweo]

The only thing that's not perfect in that pic is the percent lifetime used which could be the 46% summary at the top.  The threshold is the value when the drive thinks it's dead and the raw values count the occurrences so you have a lot of zeros meaning 100% health.

My Raw Read Error and Seek Error show a less healthy example:

Code: [Select]

ID# ATTRIBUTE_NAME          FLAG     VALUE WORST THRESH TYPE      UPDATED  WHEN_FAILED RAW_VALUE
  1 Raw_Read_Error_Rate     0x000f   082   065   006    Pre-fail  Always       -       188095678
  3 Spin_Up_Time            0x0003   097   096   000    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  4 Start_Stop_Count        0x0032   091   091   020    Old_age   Always       -       9413
  5 Reallocated_Sector_Ct   0x0033   100   100   010    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
  7 Seek_Error_Rate         0x000f   066   060   045    Pre-fail  Always       -       4689573
  9 Power_On_Hours          0x0032   092   092   000    Old_age   Always       -       7176
 10 Spin_Retry_Count        0x0013   100   100   097    Pre-fail  Always       -       0
 12 Power_Cycle_Count       0x0032   097   097   020    Old_age   Always       -       3147
183 Runtime_Bad_Block       0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
184 End-to-End_Error        0x0032   100   100   099    Old_age   Always       -       0
187 Reported_Uncorrect      0x0032   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
188 Command_Timeout         0x0032   100   099   000    Old_age   Always       -       2 2 2
189 High_Fly_Writes         0x003a   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
190 Airflow_Temperature_Cel 0x0022   074   056   040    Old_age   Always       -       26 (Min/Max 19/26)
193 Load_Cycle_Count        0x0032   096   096   000    Old_age   Always       -       9471
194 Temperature_Celsius     0x0022   026   010   000    Old_age   Always       -       26 (0 10 0 0 0)
195 Hardware_ECC_Recovered  0x001a   004   002   000    Old_age   Always       -       188095678
197 Current_Pending_Sector  0x0012   100   100   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
198 Offline_Uncorrectable   0x0010   100   100   000    Old_age   Offline      -       0
199 UDMA_CRC_Error_Count    0x003e   200   200   000    Old_age   Always       -       0
240 Head_Flying_Hours       0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       1323h+03m+53.253s
241 Total_LBAs_Written      0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       4103870649
242 Total_LBAs_Read         0x0000   100   253   000    Old_age   Offline      -       2733114427

Okay, thank you.

I am currently taking pictures of all  setings and stuff and backing up to my email, so I can set it up etc again. I then have copied all my folders from the C-drive.

I am assuming my other drives are fine. To me, this seems software related. Windows update gave me an update and various settings are now windows 7, the search bar is windows 10, some sounds windows 11 and others windows 10. It seems to me this is a major windows 11 installation problem and I hope I can correct without a reinstall, but I am preparing for one nontheless.

So you say my drive is probably fine, for now?

I am currently just copying files. How exactly do you recommend doing a backup of my drive, if its corrupted?

Once I am done with my backup, I will try doing this:

"Update: I figured out an alternative way, to get back to Windows 10 without losing data, thank you for looking into the issue.
For anyone facing the same issue here is the solution:
**Please keep a note of BitLocker recovery key, it will be required in the process. You can find it at aka.ms/myrecoverykey**
1 .Win+L
2. While holding the Shift key, go to the power and click "Restart".
3. Then advance setup menu appears, and there will be a "Troubleshoot" option.
4. Go in Troubleshoot>Uninstall Updates>Uninstall feature update.
5. Then if the uninstall feature update is available you will be able to go back to windows 10.
6. Congratulations! You are now on windows 10:party_popper:"

[Naweo]

Edit: Found a way to restore win 10. I installed win 11 again, seems to be working.

Thanks, will update if problems.

[Leslieann]

Reported uncorrectable errors 100/100?

SMART is a not always super intuitive... To people.
100/100 refers to the current number and max/worst number, while it makes sense if you're looking at the temp readings it doesn't make sense in a pass/fail situation, that's because they didn't want to add or remove extra columns, 100 is often just a placeholder to fill that spot.

I am currently just copying files. How exactly do you recommend doing a backup of my drive, if its corrupted?

If corrupted it can still copy, it just may not be a good copy.

As for how, you're kind of asking for a book,
The simplest method is just manually copying important files to an external drive.

Since you're now up and running, NOW is the time to start looking at backup systems, not last minute when things are failing. There is no one size fits all method and it can get pretty deep if you want it automated.

[Darthbaggins]

In the future, just do a clean install of a(n) OS - Especially in cases like this when you're moving from on version to a newer one.

[Naweo]

Reported uncorrectable errors 100/100?

SMART is a not always super intuitive... To people.
100/100 refers to the current number and max/worst number, while it makes sense if you're looking at the temp readings it doesn't make sense in a pass/fail situation, that's because they didn't want to add or remove extra columns, 100 is often just a placeholder to fill that spot.

I am currently just copying files. How exactly do you recommend doing a backup of my drive, if its corrupted?

If corrupted it can still copy, it just may not be a good copy.

As for how, you're kind of asking for a book,
The simplest method is just manually copying important files to an external drive.

Since you're now up and running, NOW is the time to start looking at backup systems, not last minute when things are failing. There is no one size fits all method and it can get pretty deep if you want it automated.

Yes, thanks. I have manually copied my files and I also will do a macrium reflect image this week.

[Naweo]

Faulting application name: explorer.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Faulting module name: 㠤䦤ෘ
ncsi.dll_unloaded, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Fault offset: 0x00007ffe5cd1f7d6
Faulting process id: 0x5edc
Faulting application start time: 0x01d8482d1fc3f051
Faulting application path: C:\Windows\explorer.exe
Faulting module path: 㠤䦤ෘ
ncsi.dll
Report Id: a43a9631-bda2-4d05-8426-aa2d2dd7ec2b
Faulting package full name:
Faulting package-relative application ID:

----------


I get this error at startup of windows. Explorer crashes 2 or 3 times for 30-60 secodns before it finally works. In safe mode it seems to work, but then I get BSOD when restarting.

This is the PC manager application error for explorer.exe.

Is there any way to like, "reinstall" windows explorer, before I consider a full reinstall of PC?

[Leslieann]

Ncsi.dll?

That's networking.
Disconnect, shutdown networking and reboot and see what it does. It does not mean networking itself is the issue, only related to it, it could be something monitoring the network (firewall, Defender, virus), or could be a bad drive or Nic.


BUT!
I also think you're still fighting the initial problem and more and more it looks like a classic case of a bad upgrade. I don't think you've fixed anything, you simply swapped one error for another and if that's the case you're going to be fighting/chasing random errors until the next major update (50.50 odds this fixes it) or you do a fresh install. The fact that it's a network error casing kernel panic/crash, which is odd to begin with but doubly so after a different error just reinforces this idea. Keep in mind this all could have happened because of bad ram, so you still may want to check your ram, ram failures can be just as bad for data as a drive failure, the only good part is it costs less money to fix (ram vs pretty much everything, your data still gets f-ed.).

[Naweo]

Ncsi.dll?

That's networking.
Disconnect, shutdown networking and reboot and see what it does. It does not mean networking itself is the issue, only related to it, it could be something monitoring the network (firewall, Defender, virus), or could be a bad drive or Nic.


BUT!
I also think you're still fighting the initial problem and more and more it looks like a classic case of a bad upgrade. I don't think you've fixed anything, you simply swapped one error for another and if that's the case you're going to be fighting/chasing random errors until the next major update (50.50 odds this fixes it) or you do a fresh install. The fact that it's a network error casing kernel panic/crash, which is odd to begin with but doubly so after a different error just reinforces this idea. Keep in mind this all could have happened because of bad ram, so you still may want to check your ram, ram failures can be just as bad for data as a drive failure, the only good part is it costs less money to fix (ram vs pretty much everything, your data still gets f-ed.).

Disconnect as in just plug off the internet or what do you mean?

[granola bar enthusiast]

i feel windows 11 is pretty meaningless and comes with so many issues and annoyances, likely won't swap until maybe in a few years when its actually good

[Leslieann]

Ncsi.dll?

That's networking.
Disconnect, shutdown networking and reboot and see what it does. It does not mean networking itself is the issue, only related to it, it could be something monitoring the network (firewall, Defender, virus), or could be a bad drive or Nic.


BUT!
I also think you're still fighting the initial problem and more and more it looks like a classic case of a bad upgrade. I don't think you've fixed anything, you simply swapped one error for another and if that's the case you're going to be fighting/chasing random errors until the next major update (50.50 odds this fixes it) or you do a fresh install. The fact that it's a network error casing kernel panic/crash, which is odd to begin with but doubly so after a different error just reinforces this idea. Keep in mind this all could have happened because of bad ram, so you still may want to check your ram, ram failures can be just as bad for data as a drive failure, the only good part is it costs less money to fix (ram vs pretty much everything, your data still gets f-ed.).

Disconnect as in just plug off the internet or what do you mean?

Go into BIOS and disable it there.

[Sintpinty]

i feel windows 11 is pretty meaningless and comes with so many issues and annoyances, likely won't swap until maybe in a few years when its actually good

Jokes on you its never gonna be

[Leslieann]

i feel windows 11 is pretty meaningless and comes with so many issues and annoyances, likely won't swap until maybe in a few years when its actually good

Jokes on you its never gonna be

Yep, and it's not like MS is going to back off on pushing it.

I always tell people, your choice of OS is an illusion.
Sure you can still run Win7 or 8, but go buy/build a new system and try that. Heck, just go buy a latest gen GPU and see if they offer drivers for it.  Like it or not, Win10 now has an end-of-life and while you can probably hold out for Windows 12, what happens if you also dislike 12? Will you wait for 13? That's really not practical, especially if you game.

If you stick with Windows, you will (most certainly) end up on Win11 at some point, you can do it now and learn with everyone else, or struggle and play catch up later.

[tp4tissue]

Yep, and it's not like MS is going to back off on pushing it.

I always tell people, your choice of OS is an illusion.
Sure you can still run Win7 or 8, but go buy/build a new system and try that. Heck, just go buy a latest gen GPU and see if they offer drivers for it.  Like it or not, Win10 now has an end-of-life and while you can probably hold out for Windows 12, what happens if you also dislike 12? Will you wait for 13? That's really not practical, especially if you game.

If you stick with Windows, you will (most certainly) end up on Win11 at some point, you can do it now and learn with everyone else, or struggle and play catch up later.

And even if you quit Games,  you go to piano, and get ripped off by piano companies selling essentially the world's slowest linux pcs in the form of (digital pianos) for $xxxx

[Naweo]

Can I try to clean install windows 11 and see if I have my problems there? On a new drive, and keep my old drive.

I intend to clean install windows 11 on a actual new pc anyway I guess

[Naweo]

My plan is to take my windows 10, on a GIGABYTE 512 ssd, that I also have in my PC with function windows 10 - update to windows 11, then do the "reset this pc"

Isnt this technically a fine way to clean install windows 11? Removing all files and settings. I will then use my ****ty/buggy winows 11 SSD as a reference to install things etc or in case i need to access something.

[Leslieann]

Can I try to clean install windows 11 and see if I have my problems there? On a new drive, and keep my old drive.

Yes, but the moment you do, technically the old Win10 install is de-activated (no more windows activation).

My advice, use a tool to extract the serial code, this way you not only have it but can put it back in if anything goes hinky.

My plan is to take my windows 10, on a GIGABYTE 512 ssd, that I also have in my PC with function windows 10 - update to windows 11, then do the "reset this pc"

Isnt this technically a fine way to clean install windows 11? Removing all files and settings. I will then use my ****ty/buggy winows 11 SSD as a reference to install things etc or in case i need to access something.

That is not a true fresh install, even if you remove all files and even if you have it clean the drive...
For one it uses existing files to re-install, not a fresh install image. 2 it can try to re-use old drivers.

Even if you have it "wipe" everything, Windows is well know, especially the latest one, for not properly cleaning the drive.
Get a thumbdrive, create an installer using their tool and do it right. Never trust an upgrade in place, or a refresh especially when you're having the problems you're having. You want everything completely redone.

[Naweo]

Yes ok, thank you. Be mindful that I am installing on a new drive less than 1y old.

Is it possible to do a "download from cloud" solution?

Will check again in 10h. Otherwise, I will see if I can extract the serial key (May need some help on what sources to trust and how to do that) and use a thumbdrive to do it properly.

[Leslieann]

While a new-ish drive is unlikely to be bad, it does happen.

Really though, it's Windows, sometimes it just screws up on install.
Welcome to the world of troubleshooting Windows (and computers in general), leave your brain at the door.

[Naweo]

While a new-ish drive is unlikely to be bad, it does happen.

Really though, it's Windows, sometimes it just screws up on install.
Welcome to the world of troubleshooting Windows (and computers in general), leave your brain at the door.

you still recommend a windows install from a flash drive?

[Leslieann]

While a new-ish drive is unlikely to be bad, it does happen.

Really though, it's Windows, sometimes it just screws up on install.
Welcome to the world of troubleshooting Windows (and computers in general), leave your brain at the door.

you still recommend a windows install from a flash drive?

For the initial install, absolutely.

[tp4tissue]

While a new-ish drive is unlikely to be bad, it does happen.

Really though, it's Windows, sometimes it just screws up on install.
Welcome to the world of troubleshooting Windows (and computers in general), leave your brain at the door.

you still recommend a windows install from a flash drive?

For the initial install, absolutely.

Tp4 recommends usbc_SSD. faster checksum

[Darthbaggins]

While a new-ish drive is unlikely to be bad, it does happen.

Really though, it's Windows, sometimes it just screws up on install.
Welcome to the world of troubleshooting Windows (and computers in general), leave your brain at the door.

you still recommend a windows install from a flash drive?

For the initial install, absolutely.

Tp4 recommends usbc_SSD. faster checksum

As long as it's supported by the hardware, or at least a 3.2 Gen2 Type A based drive

I have a 500GB Samsung NVMe in an external enclosure that I use for images.

[Naweo]

I still have problems after reinstalling windows 11 on a new drive.

Windows 11 explorer crashes randomly, and every time I open the PC.

I also get massive lag spikes in games.

I just suspect windows 11 is a crapshow.

[Leslieann]

I still have problems after reinstalling windows 11 on a new drive.

Windows 11 explorer crashes randomly, and every time I open the PC.

I also get massive lag spikes in games.

I just suspect windows 11 is a crapshow.

Make sure all the drivers are up to date, initial setup drivers were junk and caused a LOT of issues and for some reason it doesn't seem to want to update those on it's own, at least not right away.

[Naweo]

I still have problems after reinstalling windows 11 on a new drive.

Windows 11 explorer crashes randomly, and every time I open the PC.

I also get massive lag spikes in games.

I just suspect windows 11 is a crapshow.

Make sure all the drivers are up to date, initial setup drivers were junk and caused a LOT of issues and for some reason it doesn't seem to want to update those on it's own, at least not right away.

I have to manually search for windows updates on microsoft forums?

My GPU driver up to date, and my motherboard drivers, as well as windows update says "latest update."

[Leslieann]

I have to manually search for windows updates on microsoft forums?

My GPU driver up to date, and my motherboard drivers, as well as windows update says "latest update."

Go into Windows update, there is a button to click to check for driver updates that is separate from Windows update.

The "latest" drivers on motherboard manufacturers websites are pretty much never the latest drivers, only the latest they tested and certified. They're often weeks, months, years behind. Not that Microsoft's driver database is always up to date either. Those are just the ones the manufacturer sent them to be certified. If you truly want the latest you have to go to the chipset manufacturer's website and even then you may not get the very latest, they often have newer ones floating around that are not listed yet publicly, the only way to get these is directly from their support team or through driver utilities.

[tp4tissue]

Woah,  windows can natively run mirrored usb drives now? so convenient, when did they implement this ?

[Leslieann]

Woah,  windows can natively run mirrored usb drives now? so convenient, when did they implement this ?

I experimented with that on Win 7 but i don;t remember if it was native or not but I was certainly experimenting with it.

Not recommended regardless.

[tp4tissue]

I experimented with that on Win 7 but i don;t remember if it was native or not but I was certainly experimenting with it.
Not recommended regardless.

But all these usb ports going to waste.. performance is acceptable for straight storage.
 

[Darthbaggins]

It's been able to be done since win 7 from my experience, there is a possibility you could do it in Vista and XP but I would have to setup a test box to see if that was true (been a long time since I played with either).

[Naweo]

I tried updating drivers from windows update, did not really find any hidden buttons or something.

I really only tangibly experience drops/lag when I am in games, stutering of the mouse (freezes for 1 second then upause) but it doesn't do it on desktop mode, only ingame.

After the reinstall on a fresh SSD, it only get the explorer crash when I boot the PC.

I am using start11 tool but I dont have problem using start11 on my laptop.

It might be a software compatibility issue but I am not sure.

[Leslieann]

It's been able to be done since win 7 from my experience, there is a possibility you could do it in Vista and XP but I would have to setup a test box to see if that was true (been a long time since I played with either).

Yeah, it may have even gone back that far and it was only Win that I tried, been a while so who knows.

It was just as bad of an idea then as it is now.

I tried updating drivers from windows update, did not really find any hidden buttons or something.

I really only tangibly experience drops/lag when I am in games, stutering of the mouse (freezes for 1 second then upause) but it doesn't do it on desktop mode, only ingame.

After the reinstall on a fresh SSD, it only get the explorer crash when I boot the PC.

I am using start11 tool but I dont have problem using start11 on my laptop.

It might be a software compatibility issue but I am not sure.

You may be up to date already then and stuttering in games is a frequent complaint. Many gamers are not switching for that reason.

Start11 could be the problem.
Just because it works on one doesn't mean it's fine on another. Could be a graphics conflict or some other Windows misdeed. Doesn't surprise me one way or another. Windows theming has always been problematic, why should 11 be any different, especially with how MS is locking things down (no more moving the taskbar).

[Darthbaggins]

Now I want to slap together a test box to try this, I still have a Phenom II x6 I might be able to test this on.  I guess off to the storage unit I will go (also I have an old ACER laptop with a Core2Duo I could test it on as well).

[Naweo]

It's been able to be done since win 7 from my experience, there is a possibility you could do it in Vista and XP but I would have to setup a test box to see if that was true (been a long time since I played with either).

Yeah, it may have even gone back that far and it was only Win that I tried, been a while so who knows.

It was just as bad of an idea then as it is now.

I tried updating drivers from windows update, did not really find any hidden buttons or something.

I really only tangibly experience drops/lag when I am in games, stutering of the mouse (freezes for 1 second then upause) but it doesn't do it on desktop mode, only ingame.

After the reinstall on a fresh SSD, it only get the explorer crash when I boot the PC.

I am using start11 tool but I dont have problem using start11 on my laptop.

It might be a software compatibility issue but I am not sure.

You may be up to date already then and stuttering in games is a frequent complaint. Many gamers are not switching for that reason.

Start11 could be the problem.
Just because it works on one doesn't mean it's fine on another. Could be a graphics conflict or some other Windows misdeed. Doesn't surprise me one way or another. Windows theming has always been problematic, why should 11 be any different, especially with how MS is locking things down (no more moving the taskbar).

Does this **** get fixed?

I mean... Its almost worth reinstalling - again - for windows 10 and just never upgrading to win 11

[Leslieann]

Does this **** get fixed?

I mean... Its almost worth reinstalling - again - for windows 10 and just never upgrading to win 11

The "old ways" say to always wait for the first security pack, but MS gave up on those, basically wait for the first major update.
Unfortunately by that time MS also often cuts off the free upgrade.

Win10 has almost 3 years of updates still and I expect them to extend that at least some and it's not like it will simply stop working but at some point unless you go to extremes like resigning yourself to used parts or an alternative OS you WILL end up on 11 or 12 at some point.

[Darthbaggins]

This is why you dont jump into a brand-new OS in the first year of it's launch.  Just like new vehicles, you never get the initial run of that generation as the majority are prone to have issues.  On the OS front I have no issues running a new OS and tend to get in on the testing phases before it's fully released to the public, as I like to tinker and it pays off in learning within my profession.

[Naweo]

Its starting to happen much more. Now, and result in blue screen of death.

I. Receives thia error after reboot

It would kinda suck if I have to reinstall - again - into windows 10. Everything was smooth and non-laggy on windows 10. As soon as I upgraded, AND THEN again reinstalled, windows 11, massive problems.

I just dont get it because other people seem to play games on windows 11 just fine, its just me who is having issues.

What would be the topdown approach to troubleshoot this ****?

If i boot the PC in clean mode / safe mode, I am pretty sure there are no issues whatsoever.

I tried uninstalling start 11, but I still get the crashes several time of explorer when I reboot. However in safe mode, it works just fine.

Software compatibility issue?

This is the error I get:

Faulting application name: explorer.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Faulting module name: 䠀䕩_unloaded, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Fault offset: 0x00007fffc498f7fb
Faulting process id: 0x4ab8
Faulting application start time: 0x01d853089486f038
Faulting application path: C:\Windows\explorer.exe
Faulting module path: 䠀䕩
Report Id: bbcbf7e8-c801-42f0-90bb-5e893180b8a6
Faulting package full name:
Faulting package-relative application ID:

EDIT: I updated bios, and have a new amazing problem to share:

"Something has happened to your pin. Please set up a new pin"

And then nothing happens when I press set up a new pin.

I tried to log into administrator to fix it, but i dont know what to do. I cant login to my user after BIOS update.

[Darthbaggins]

Use this site to narrow down your issues - will have a better breakdown.  https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/documentation/
Sounds like there is a chance you removed a vital file, or there is a driver incompatibility causing the errors.  At this point I'm leaning to user error over hardware/software error.

[Naweo]

Use this site to narrow down your issues - will have a better breakdown.  https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/documentation/
Sounds like there is a chance you removed a vital file, or there is a driver incompatibility causing the errors.  At this point I'm leaning to user error over hardware/software error.

Prior to using the onboard BIOS internet bios upgrade feature, It was working. The immediate after, I could not log in. I dont think there was a user error.

This is what they say for others that had same problem:

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/pin-is-not-working-after-bios-updatewindows-11/aca6ab8e-0cfd-4aca-ba80-e0842ad198c1

I cant seem to solve it

[Naweo]

I made a completely new user.

I get same problem, although the crash is much more quick and mild:

Faulting application name: explorer.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Faulting module name: 謀㧝扨
DEVRTL.dll_unloaded, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x00000000
Exception code: 0xc0000409
Fault offset: 0x00007ffaa8b8dd7d
Faulting process id: 0x2d4c
Faulting application start time: 0x01d8532dcf6bc63e
Faulting application path: C:\Windows\explorer.exe
Faulting module path: 謀㧝扨
DEVRTL.dll
Report Id: 065e29df-185a-4edd-91bc-334d1d7bb145
Faulting package full name:
Faulting package-relative application ID:

[Naweo]

I will wire 500 USD to the person who can help me fix this

[Leslieann]

For the PIn code,
It's probable that the bios upgrade altered the encryption/TPM, device ID, etc... Upgrades have also been known to mess up raid or alter the PCIE device ID, the latter can make certain GPUS no longer work, common issue on 3080 TI and 3090 TI (usually only TI models). Bios has deep tentacles in the OS.  Just another reason to not update them unless you need to. It's not uncommon for me to do a fresh OS install after a bios update just to eliminate any other issues like you experienced.

Starting fresh is never a bad thing, it's why OEMs love to reset a system back to factory after service.



As for the ongoing problems...
What all have you done since you found the bad sata cable? This goes back to why I fear ram/drive/PSU problems sooo much, the after effects can last a VERY long time.

Did you re-use any install files downloaded prior to fixing the cable?
Did you re-install windows using an ISO you downloaded while the drive was bad?
Did you restore anything critical that came off the drive prior to fixing the cable?

See where I'm going? You need to purge old data and question all data you used prior to fixing the problem. All your prior testing, all prior troubleshooting, EVERYTHING is thrown out the window because you cannot count on any of that being correct. You need to start fresh and carefully re-introduce any files you want to restore or keep chasing your tail, you could be finding corrupt data for years.

Fun right?

After all that if it's still not working, if you're serious about the $500, take it to a local shop and let them take a look at it.



Side note.. Stop $%^$^$ cross posting and get everything in one place.
What a pain trying to find where and when you mentioned that SATA cable problem. Troubleshooting this is spread across 2 or 3 threads over multiple pages covering 2 or 3 topics. For anyone other than you, trying to keep up is impossible and if you lack all the info, there's no way to fix it. If you want to fix this you need to start over fresh and keep track of what all you have done in order and all in one place.

Not trying to be a jerk, that's just reality.

[Naweo]

For the PIn code,
It's probable that the bios upgrade altered the encryption/TPM, device ID, etc... Upgrades have also been known to mess up raid or alter the PCIE device ID, the latter can make certain GPUS no longer work, common issue on 3080 TI and 3090 TI (usually only TI models). Bios has deep tentacles in the OS.  Just another reason to not update them unless you need to. It's not uncommon for me to do a fresh OS install after a bios update just to eliminate any other issues like you experienced.

Starting fresh is never a bad thing, it's why OEMs love to reset a system back to factory after service.



As for the ongoing problems...
What all have you done since you found the bad sata cable? This goes back to why I fear ram/drive/PSU problems sooo much, the after effects can last a VERY long time.

Did you re-use any install files downloaded prior to fixing the cable?
Did you re-install windows using an ISO you downloaded while the drive was bad?
Did you restore anything critical that came off the drive prior to fixing the cable?

See where I'm going? You need to purge old data and question all data you used prior to fixing the problem. All your prior testing, all prior troubleshooting, EVERYTHING is thrown out the window because you cannot count on any of that being correct. You need to start fresh and carefully re-introduce any files you want to restore or keep chasing your tail, you could be finding corrupt data for years.

Fun right?

After all that if it's still not working, if you're serious about the $500, take it to a local shop and let them take a look at it.



Side note.. Stop $%^$^$ cross posting and get everything in one place.
What a pain trying to find where and when you mentioned that SATA cable problem. Troubleshooting this is spread across 2 or 3 threads over multiple pages covering 2 or 3 topics. For anyone other than you, trying to keep up is impossible and if you lack all the info, there's no way to fix it. If you want to fix this you need to start over fresh and keep track of what all you have done in order and all in one place.

Not trying to be a jerk, that's just reality.

The PC-shop had tightly put in cables so one of the power cables to the actual SSD (it was not the sata cable, it was the actual PSU power cable btw.) that was loose. This seemingly stopped the blackout issues with the monitor (hence the multiple threads, as it was a seperate issue.)

This is a windows 11 installation issue.

Scenario 1: I upgrades from windows 10 to windows 11. I had crashing explorer.
Scenario 2: I then reinstalled fresh windows 11 on a seeprate, max 1 year old SSD, same issue. I used a flashdrive and installed the IMAGE creator from the microsoft website to install windows 10 home (which i have a license key on the motherboard.) So yes, I used the PC that had faulty behaviour from its original installtion to install the normal flash drive, assuming that this was OK. Not sure what else you mean.

All I have really done is a fresh reinstall, persisting issues.

I have NOT altered any hardware, including sata cables.

I suppose there could be bad GPU/CPU/RAM. Would this really cause these explorer crashes? Also, all the hardware are running in the default clock settings.

What does carefully reintroduce programs mean? I have a normal HDD installed with files on it, but 90% of applications for my reinstalled Windows 11, I downloaded and reinstalled from official sources. My build now is still relatively recent.

I was about to do another reinstall as the most recent thing I did was upgrade drivers from motherboard site and also upgrade bios with fingers crossed. I just feel if I reinstall windows 11 again, I will run into same issues. However, it sounds like maybe I reinstalled windows 11 wrongly, so maybe I need a step-by-step guide to make sure nothing ****s up.

[Leslieann]

You used the faulty PC to create the install image.
Did you CRC check the install disk after to verify it was a good copy over to the thumbdrive? USB is notorious for dropping packets and having little to no error correction. Either use verification (MD5 and such) on not only the install ISO, but preferably the media itself (not sure if MS offers this), and/or create the files using a different, known working system. Again, preferably check the MD5 hash on the ISO.

The drivers you installed after re-installing Windows, were those also downloaded prior to the re-install? Or were they freshly downloaded again after? If they were older, that could be the problem.

Motherboard drivers...
Motherboard manufacturers are known for lagging FAR behind on driver updates. If you can find them, go to the source, Intel in this case. Or get a driver finder tool to do it. Never trust ones listed on motherboard web pages and never trust the ones in the Windows repo to be anywhere close to the latest. Stock Windows ones have been known to be YEARS behind (even for Win11, since it uses Win10 drivers).

Carefully re-introduce means start with a fresh install, see how it runs. Install some drivers, see how it runs, install your browser, see how it runs, etc... and all, fresh, clean downloads, not from a copy you kept from before (some people keep backups of install files). Any installer/driver/program you downloaded and saved prior to this install is suspect and should be avoided or installed alone, then checked to see how the system reacts to it. It's the same as removing hardware and re-introducing it, only with software.

I would also download a memory tester and run that, some Linux installers include it. Garuda Linux has it, make the installer (Rufus works well), boot it and it should be the very last option in the boot menu.