Author Topic: What do I have to do to remove shift/spacebar (particularly on glorious modular)  (Read 5610 times)

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Offline bluejeans

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I'm assuming that they have those metal clips since non-mech keyboards, and a ducky shine I have, does.

How do you remove them?  How much care do I need to take, and how do you position the metal piece to clip back on when you're finished swapping your switch?

Offline Joey Quinn

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Ok so I'm not 100% sure exactly what you're asking but I think you want to know how to remove costar stabilized keycaps.

You can gently pull off the cap with a keypuller then shift it to the side to remove the wire from the cap or you can just remove the stabilizer inserts from the keycap after it's off the switch. This will leave the wire attached to the plate/ other stabilizer pieces.

The other option would be removing the caps above or below the stabilized key (depending on the orientation of the stabilizer wire) and snapping the wire out of the plate inserts before removing the keycap from the switch.

Both methods will work and neither is more likely to break anything. To reassemble it I'd recommend making sure the wire is snapped in first, then attach the wire to the cap using the inserts, and then just push the cap back on to the switch.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline bluejeans

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Ok so I'm not 100% sure exactly what you're asking but I think you want to know how to remove costar stabilized keycaps.

You can gently pull off the cap with a keypuller then shift it to the side to remove the wire from the cap or you can just remove the stabilizer inserts from the keycap after it's off the switch. This will leave the wire attached to the plate/ other stabilizer pieces.

The other option would be removing the caps above or below the stabilized key (depending on the orientation of the stabilizer wire) and snapping the wire out of the plate inserts before removing the keycap from the switch.

Both methods will work and neither is more likely to break anything. To reassemble it I'd recommend making sure the wire is snapped in first, then attach the wire to the cap using the inserts, and then just push the cap back on to the switch.

Thanks, what does the wire actually do?  It seems to me that a large key mounted on 2 or more switches is perfectly useable without moving around or getting stuck.

Offline Joey Quinn

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Now I'm more confused. Do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

If a keycap is mounted to 2+ switches (not sure what keyboards actually do this) it shouldn't have a stabilizer wire. If the stabilizer looks like an extra switch the board could be using cherry stabilizers but with those the wire should be beneath the plate.

The stabilizer wire makes sure that if you only press one side of a keycap the other side will move down with it instead of having the cap move at an angle and bind with the switch, the longer a keycap is the more exaggerated the binding issue becomes. If you only press the middle of a keycap a stabilizer isn't necessary, on my MA42 the split space uses 2.25u keycaps and I almost never have the stabilizers attached because I only press the middles of the caps.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline bluejeans

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Now I'm more confused. Do you have a picture of what you're talking about?

If a keycap is mounted to 2+ switches (not sure what keyboards actually do this) it shouldn't have a stabilizer wire. If the stabilizer looks like an extra switch the board could be using cherry stabilizers but with those the wire should be beneath the plate.

The stabilizer wire makes sure that if you only press one side of a keycap the other side will move down with it instead of having the cap move at an angle and bind with the switch, the longer a keycap is the more exaggerated the binding issue becomes. If you only press the middle of a keycap a stabilizer isn't necessary, on my MA42 the split space uses 2.25u keycaps and I almost never have the stabilizers attached because I only press the middles of the caps.

I think I can explain the confusion.  I've been looking at regular mechanical keyboards, that have stabalizers for the larger keys.  I assumed they had multiple switches because the Glorious kb with hotswap switches has 2 switches for the large numpad keys.  So I guess regular mechs have just one switch, and the stabalizers.

Offline Joey Quinn

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Just looked up the board, it uses cherry stabilizers. That means the wire is beneath the plate and all you need to do to remove a stabilized keycap is pull it off with a keypuller like any other keycap. The extra "switch" you're seeing is the part of the stabilizer that sits above the plate. There's no reason to mess with the stabilizers unless you want to mod them.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline bluejeans

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  • Posts: 28
Just looked up the board, it uses cherry stabilizers. That means the wire is beneath the plate and all you need to do to remove a stabilized keycap is pull it off with a keypuller like any other keycap. The extra "switch" you're seeing is the part of the stabilizer that sits above the plate. There's no reason to mess with the stabilizers unless you want to mod them.

Any idea if I have to mess with the stabalizer when swapping the actual switches?  And it sounds like I only need to use one switch for the long keys when I put new switches in?

Offline Joey Quinn

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Any idea if I have to mess with the stabalizer when swapping the actual switches?  And it sounds like I only need to use one switch for the long keys when I put new switches in?

No, you won't need to touch the stabilizers when swapping switches and correct, you only need to use one switch when swapping switches on the stabilized keys.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done

Offline bluejeans

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  • Posts: 28
Any idea if I have to mess with the stabalizer when swapping the actual switches?  And it sounds like I only need to use one switch for the long keys when I put new switches in?

No, you won't need to touch the stabilizers when swapping switches and correct, you only need to use one switch when swapping switches on the stabilized keys.

Thanks.  Any idea what this review means by "Here we have our first issue, the numpad switches for the enter and plus are mounted vertically."?



http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/glorious_pc_gaming_race_glorious_modular_mechanical_keyboard_review,5.html

Offline Joey Quinn

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The cherry cruciform isn't symmetrical, there's roughly a 0.1mm difference in thickness between the 2 axis. This means that if you put a cap on rotated 90 degrees you'll need to force it for the cap to fit, you should still be able to use a normal enter and + but they may be harder to put on.

Not rotating the numpad switches for enter and + would lead me to believe that the designer of that keyboard doesn't actually know much about keyboards or switches.
People in the 1980s, in general, were clearly just better than we are now in every measurable way.

The dumber the reason the more it must be done