GHpad FTW (10-Key Pad for GH60)

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Any sort of definite list of what we should be expecting in the package?
Case
LEDs
Switches (if purchased from MOZ)
Diodes
PCB

That's all I can get off the top of my head.

love

Yes it comes with love, but also a few other important things. 

From left to right, top to bottom.
-Bag of 22 blue switches
-Bag of resistors and capacitors, each individually bagged and labeled with their part number
-Bag of other parts including diodes, usb connector, microcontroller, button, and crystal
-Bag of 5 brass standoffs
-Bag of 4 LEDs
-PCB wrapped in foam
(Not pictured) Acrylic case if Moz didn't send yours directly

[dragonxx21]

Any sort of definite list of what we should be expecting in the package?
Case
LEDs
Switches (if purchased from MOZ)
Diodes
PCB

That's all I can get off the top of my head.

love

Yes it comes with love, but also a few other important things. 

Show Image

From left to right, top to bottom.
-Bag of 22 blue switches
-Bag of resistors and capacitors, each individually bagged and labeled with their part number
-Bag of other parts including diodes, usb connector, microcontroller, button, and crystal
-Bag of 5 brass standoffs
-Bag of 4 LEDs
-PCB wrapped in foam
(Not pictured) Acrylic case if Moz didn't send yours directly

Does it come with an instruction manual for construction? :P

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Does it come with an instruction manual for construction?

Nope, it's pretty self explanatory. Each component has a label. For example, R4 is resistor 4. On the PCB, there will be a spot that is labeled R4. Solder the resistor in the outline and you're all good! This is how it works for all the components. Just remember to start with the smallest components then work your way up.

[dragonxx21]

Does it come with an instruction manual for construction?

Nope, it's pretty self explanatory. Each component has a label. For example, R4 is resistor 4. On the PCB, there will be a spot that is labeled R4. Solder the resistor in the outline and you're all good! This is how it works for all the components. Just remember to start with the smallest components then work your way up.

Alright!

[jevvix]

Can't wait for a GB. Will it be complete kits only or will the cases be sold separately (acrylic assembly only, sans the pcb etc.)?

[jdcarpe]

Can't wait for a GB. Will it be complete kits only or will the cases be sold separately (acrylic assembly only, sans the pcb etc.)?

There will probably be a case option available to order when the group buy begins.

[CPTBadAss]

Got mine today. IT'S PURPLE!!! Pictures can be found here.

[jevvix]

Got mine today. IT'S PURPLE!!! Pictures can be found here.

Lookin good 

[whiskytango]

got my package today. looking forward to building it this weekend when I have the time. MOZ, this case is beautiful. I am truly impressed. And TFR, I love your ingenious packaging skills. You really went above and beyond in putting this kit together. Pics when I build it, I promise

TFR, where did you get those rubber feet? nevermind, I see your answer above. I am thinking this will be the way I want to go.

[dragonxx21]

Mine is still somewhere in "THE WOODLANDS" according to Canada post...

[agodinhost]

That was the price we figured out just to get the parts for the 10 prototype testers. Not to mention, in reality, the amount spent was far higher than the anticipated and TFR actually ended up losing quite a lot of money. The estimated cost is subject to change and in a GB setting it depends wildly on the amount of interest and the discount achieved through bulk ordering.

Ya, we will see what the pricing works out to.  I think it will remain reasonable and it is going to be kick ass, so can't wait... 

Even for upwards of $60 I believe it would be a fair price, considering what the final product will be able to do.

$60 without switches, stabs, and caps? So just the PCB+case?

I want one!!!
Get my money, please, pleaseeeEEE!!!

[regack]

I want one!!!
Get my money, please, pleaseeeEEE!!!

Hopefully soon, just getting this initial prototype tested.

[catnipz0098]

Can't wait for the group buy to start. Can someone PM me when it does?

[metalliqaz]

Can't wait for the group buy to start. Can someone PM me when it does?

No.  Just put a notification on the group buys section and you will get an email for all new group buys.

[whiskytango]

No actual soldering done or anything yet, but I played with the case a bit. Sneak peek:

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

No actual soldering done or anything yet, but I played with the case a bit. Sneak peek:

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Did you try using the flathead screws too?

[whiskytango]

Yes, but I couldn't make a couple of the holes line up because the engraving was a little off. On one hole the engraving wasn't deep enough to allow both screws to grab the brass standoff. I have a plan to open those holes up a bit until the flat head screws fit flush but this setup will do for now. I like it if I can figure out a good way to keep it from sliding.

[MOZ]

The sliding is one other reason, I like the flathead setup since it allows to use generic, even smaller rubber feet.

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

Yes, but I couldn't make a couple of the holes line up because the engraving was a little off. On one hole the engraving wasn't deep enough to allow both screws to grab the brass standoff. I have a plan to open those holes up a bit until the flat head screws fit flush but this setup will do for now. I like it if I can figure out a good way to keep it from sliding.

They are long enough. You just have to position the brass standoff evenly between the three middle layers. Then do not tighten the top screw, tighten the bottom screws.

[whiskytango]

They are long enough. You just have to position the brass standoff evenly between the three middle layers. Then do not tighten the top screw, tighten the bottom screws.

I understand what you're saying, but what I was saying is that on just one of the holes on my case, the engraving on one hole is off just enough so that it makes this difficult. It's not a problem with the screw. I am going to cleanup the engraved countersink holes and it will not be a problem at all. I do so love the screw-standoff-screw design

[TheFlyingRaccoon]

I understand what you're saying, but what I was saying is that on just one of the holes on my case, the engraving on one hole is off just enough so that it makes this difficult. It's not a problem with the screw. I am going to cleanup the engraved countersink holes and it will not be a problem at all. I do so love the screw-standoff-screw design

Perfect! Make sure to post pics when you're done. 

[regack]

Sooo, can't see the silkscreen here on this revision of the board, so I labeled C4 and R5 in this pic...

[MOZ]

regack, since you have seen quality of seeedstudio, PCBWing and OSHPark, what are your views on them and comparisons.

[regack]

regack, since you have seen quality of seeedstudio, PCBWing and OSHPark, what are your views on them and comparisons.

I think PCBwing would be my preferred way to go based on what I've seen.  That said, I really like the boards from OSHPark (dat purple & gold), but you don't have any customization options and you probably wouldn't want to order large quantities from there.  I would like to find out who they use to get their panels made.   Seeeeedstudio seems to be very similar to Gold Phoenix.    I should note, I'm no kind of expert on this, but there is a Holiday Inn Express a few miles from here, and I rode past it the other day...

[mashby]

I should note, I'm no kind of expert on this, but there is a Holiday Inn Express a few miles from here, and I rode past it the other day...

[sublime]

Will this be completely programmable? I'd like the pad for macro commands in some programs of mine.

[MOZ]

Yes, it will be.

[metalliqaz]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

[sublime]

Yes, it will be.

**** yeah

[Flamingchook]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Edit: Just tried fitting a cap sideways. SP DCS caps fit since I think the cross on the bottom of them is symmetrical. My OEM filco caps don't fit rotated though, and neither do the OEM profile keys from my WASD tester. So it might be possible with the right caps.

[Pacifist]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.

[Flamingchook]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.

Just edited my post above with what I just tested, to repeat it here:

Edit: Just tried fitting a cap sideways. SP DCS caps fit since I think the cross on the bottom of them is symmetrical. My OEM filco caps don't fit rotated though, and neither do the OEM profile keys from my WASD tester. So it might be possible with the right caps.

[MOZ]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.

chook is correct, the "+" mounting's vertical hands are thinner than the horizontal hands. However, when forced on, you can mount the keycaps at 90 degress rotation, damagign the keycaps stem or slider or both.

[Flamingchook]

To quote Photekq from the CAD resources thread:

Measurement for a stem on a MX keycap. I used this for my latest brass cap and it fit very well. You could maybe make it a little smaller, and I would definitely recommend making it smaller if using plastic/acrylic.

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[Flamingchook]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Are you sure? One time i put on blank spherical caps the wrong way, and it still worked.

chook is correct, the "+" mounting's vertical hands are thinner than the horizontal hands. However, when forced on, you can mount the keycaps at 90 degress rotation, damagign the keycaps stem or slider or both.

yes, except the DCS caps I just put on sideways didn't require any forcing, they just went on normally.

[MOZ]

It depends on the tolerance and how the hollow + shape is modeled on the cap.

[swill]

A 4x6 macro pad would be really cool to use in 'portrait' configuration above the main keyboard

Cherry sliders aren't symmetrical though so keycaps won't fit on them rotated 90 degrees.

Edit: Just tried fitting a cap sideways. SP DCS caps fit since I think the cross on the bottom of them is symmetrical. My OEM filco caps don't fit rotated though, and neither do the OEM profile keys from my WASD tester. So it might be possible with the right caps.

I think you could probably use Row 3 SA keys as well (like the current Round 5 GB), but I am not positive about that...

[AlexJP]

must   have   two

 

[regack]

So with the prototype A, the pads for the diodes are sized incorrectly.  SOD-323 or SOD-523 would fit, but SOD-123 is too big... you can glob on a bunch of solder, but it's terribly ugly. 

[MOZ]

Can you post a picture?

[metalliqaz]

So with the prototype A, the pads for the diodes are sized incorrectly.  SOD-323 or SOD-523 would fit, but SOD-123 is too big... you can glob on a bunch of solder, but it's terribly ugly.

What are you going for?  I size mine rather large as well. It allows you to fit SOD-123 (mostly) but it also allows 1206 and 1008 SMD parts to fit, which is nice.  I personally prefer those

[regack]

So with the prototype A, the pads for the diodes are sized incorrectly.  SOD-323 or SOD-523 would fit, but SOD-123 is too big... you can glob on a bunch of solder, but it's terribly ugly.

What are you going for?  I size mine rather large as well. It allows you to fit SOD-123 (mostly) but it also allows 1206 and 1008 SMD parts to fit, which is nice.  I personally prefer those

Should have been SOD-123, price is nice on those as well vs the others... basically I placed the wrong footprint

[MOZ]

I wouldn't blame you, I should have ordered the right diodes based on the current footprints. Did you complete building your GHpad regack?

[regack]

I would blame you, I should have ordered the right diodes based on the current footprints. Did you complete building your GHpad regack?

Not entirely, enough to get FLIP to work, then it occurred to me that I need some kind of firmware

[MOZ]

IIRC the latest version of qaz's epsilon tool supports mapping for GHPad.

[metalliqaz]

IIRC the latest version of qaz's epsilon tool supports mapping for GHPad.

Yes, be the first to test and give me feedback

[regack]

IIRC the latest version of qaz's epsilon tool supports mapping for GHPad.

I think it's a different revision of the GHpad, which was from... a while ago?  Either way, it's a FANTASTIC application/tool!  I was wading through TMK trying to figure out what the heck I'm doing.

So I tried the GHpad one and got some wacky results, so I loaded up the GH60 profile because I know there are a lot of things in common with that.

My test keys worked fine (though I really was just shorting with wire) so I'll finish it up, and then continue trying to muddle my way through TMK.   Or maybe metalliqaz can add a profile for this one (hint hint ) because I'd much rather use that fancy application... which is really FANTASTIC, if I hadn't mentioned that before...

R1 = PD0
R2 = PD1
R3 = PD2
R4 = PD3
R5 = PD4
R6 = PD5
C1=PF0
C2=PF1
C3=PE6
C4=PC7
NUMLCKLED=PB2
FNLED1=PF7
FNLED2=PF6
FNLED3=PF5

[metalliqaz]

I only looked at the 6x4 design. The prelim board might be different.  Like I said I didn't test it yet but I'll take another look tonight.

[metalliqaz]

I think I found the issue, although I didn't really look into it to deep.  I fired off a quick test build (attached).  See if it works, pretty please?
Contains this simple test map:

[dragonxx21]

Just double checking, but the plate has the tabs for allowing the switch top to come off, right?