Colors | Qty |
Two-tone Purple | 0 |
RGBY | 0 |
Frame 10, u put 9 caps into 8 key lel
The controller keys are sold out right? :( I am definitely interested in a next batch. I just bought a bunch of your star keys too, too bad I missed this.
Yes, everything in this batch already sold. I'll be making a slightly larger batch the next time around and I plan on having it ready soon™.
Yes, everything in this batch already sold. I'll be making a slightly larger batch the next time around and I plan on having it ready soon™.
Any chance of a waitlist or newsletter type deal to know when the next batch is ready?
Just a quick update tonight, all of round one is packed up and ready to be shipped out tomorrow. Unfortunately it is memorial day, so the post office will be a bunch of lazy jerks and not do anything with it until Tuesday. :rolleyes:
I've also got a head start on round 2. I'm aiming to have 20 SuperCTRLrs this time around, hopefully that gives everyone who missed round 1 a chance. I made more Super Stars too so I can continue the original offer.
(Attachment Link)
There is still a lot of peeling, gluing and painting left (the picture is almost all dry-fitted) so I should be ready by the end of the week.
Quick question... middle stem is rectangular? So it won't fit JTK (topre-mx) sliders?
Quick question... middle stem is rectangular? So it won't fit JTK (topre-mx) sliders?
As they are right now, you are right, they would not fit.
If you are interested in trying, I could swap the main stem with a 3rd stabilizer stem. I just don't have any Topre (with or without MX sliders) on hand to verify the fit before sending it out.
Do you by chance know the diameter of the slider's socket? I know they are round and fit round MX stems, but I try to make the stem sidewalls as thick as I can. The acrylic gets brittle if it is too thin.
I found reviews of JTK vs Novatouch sliders here : http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7 (http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7)
If my math is correct, then :
Novatouch slider socket diameter = 8.3mm - (0.7mm x2) = 6.9mm
JTK slider socket diameter = 8.1mm - (0.9mm x2) = 6.3mm
I also measured my Novatouch slider socket diameter using mini ruler. It is 6mm ++, but I think it's less than 6.9mm (sorry for potato pic) :
(Attachment Link)
I found reviews of JTK vs Novatouch sliders here : http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7 (http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7)
If my math is correct, then :
Novatouch slider socket diameter = 8.3mm - (0.7mm x2) = 6.9mm
JTK slider socket diameter = 8.1mm - (0.9mm x2) = 6.3mm
I also measured my Novatouch slider socket diameter using mini ruler. It is 6mm ++, but I think it's less than 6.9mm (sorry for potato pic) :
(Attachment Link)
Thank you for tracking down the info! I can work with this.
I may not have something ready to go for Round 2, but I will take a second look at my stabilizer stem and see what I can do. I'm sitting at just about 6.25mm OD right now, but with the way the stabilizers don't attach to the key, I'm concerned the key wobble could be bad for the stem (i.e. potentially crack it). Novatouch looks like at least the stabilizer stems have something to sit on; JTK looks like they free-float.
I will keep you posted, and if you are interested in beta testing a blank plate for me, I might send you a couple to hammer on.
Even the packaging is aweome!Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/uJGa2Ye.jpg)
Now all I need is a console keycap and the GMK snes that never happened. :p
You're welcome, of course I would be glad to help you in beta testing. However I feel that I'm not the best candidate for testing, since you'll need to send the blank plate overseas (up to 2-3 weeks ETA). But if you're alright with that, I will PM you my address.
If anyone else state-side has a Novatouch and is interested, please let me know.
Quick question... middle stem is rectangular? So it won't fit JTK (topre-mx) sliders?
As they are right now, you are right, they would not fit.
If you are interested in trying, I could swap the main stem with a 3rd stabilizer stem. I just don't have any Topre (with or without MX sliders) on hand to verify the fit before sending it out.
Do you by chance know the diameter of the slider's socket? I know they are round and fit round MX stems, but I try to make the stem sidewalls as thick as I can. The acrylic gets brittle if it is too thin.
I found reviews of JTK vs Novatouch sliders here : http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7 (http://imgur.com/r/mechanicalkeyboards/EFKq7)
If my math is correct, then :
Novatouch slider socket diameter = 8.3mm - (0.7mm x2) = 6.9mm
JTK slider socket diameter = 8.1mm - (0.9mm x2) = 6.3mm
I also measured my Novatouch slider socket diameter using mini ruler. It is 6mm ++, but I think it's less than 6.9mm (sorry for potato pic) :
(Attachment Link)
Couldn't test it out on my HHKB, but maybe this will help?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/VVknTe1.jpg)
I do. I'm in California.
Got my order in the mail today. That was really quick delivery!
They look great and my wife likes them too. Maybe this could be the gateway for her :)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/bd8b671fd7b157895a96e9b9388bb7f1.jpg)
OMG!!! :eek: Are you kidding me?! Sweeeet!!! Thank you :D
Think you'll ever make a lower profile Super Ctrler by chance?
Anyone elses super control leans to the right really bad?Mine does have a bit of the lean too. Looking at the stem it seems like it itself was a little tilted. I'm not sure if that was because of heat during transit or what. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/979d259690de560e4e0495408a231beb.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/6cdff6f884ca8452fd1b7fcc92d9e961.jpg)
Anyone elses super control leans to the right really bad?
Mine does have a bit of the lean too. Looking at the stem it seems like it itself was a little tilted. I'm not sure if that was because of heat during transit or what.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/979d259690de560e4e0495408a231beb.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/6cdff6f884ca8452fd1b7fcc92d9e961.jpg)
Finally got mine in. I love the cap in general. its just the height profile.
would it be possible to keep the single layer with all the inserts?
I'm not to worried about an exchange or anything. I will say that my center stem looks as if it were cut while the acrylic sheet wasn't level. Not sure if that's purely laser heat or not.Anyone elses super control leans to the right really bad?
Does it have the same amount of lean in the Left Shift position as it does on Enter? While putting this together I only had a few boards to test the fit on, I'm not entirely sure how different stabilizer configurations effect it.Mine does have a bit of the lean too. Looking at the stem it seems like it itself was a little tilted. I'm not sure if that was because of heat during transit or what.Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/979d259690de560e4e0495408a231beb.jpg)Show Image(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170612/6cdff6f884ca8452fd1b7fcc92d9e961.jpg)
The stem bending is definitely not heat during travel, but heat when laser cutting thick acrylic into such a small piece; unfortunately the stems can skew a little when cooling. I try to compensate for this during test fit and assembly--but it looks like I'm still human after all. :-[Finally got mine in. I love the cap in general. its just the height profile.
would it be possible to keep the single layer with all the inserts?
The short answer is no. Flush-gluing a stem to the back of a single layer causes even more issues with tilting and consistency than we're already seeing above, not to mentioned the stem would be significantly weaker with a risk of popping the top off when using a key puller if it is a tight fit.
Lessons learned from rounds 1 & 2
- 1u keys are easier to create than wide keys
- I should've been more clear about the approximate height of the current key design (roughly R1 like the rest)
- There was definitely some expectation of an R3/R4 height despite being a non-standard key
- I still need some work on keeping the stems straight
Exchanges
Anyone unhappy with the way their key fits is welcome to return it for a replacement. Exactly when to make the exchange depends if you want to wait for the revised version or not.
Next Revision
I've got a other work to focus on this plate this week, but I will definitely keep updates coming as I work on the improvements. I'm pretty sure I can drop the height without loosing much strength/quality by using a thinner plate and making a minor assembly adjustment; this should drop 1-2mm off the overall height. I'll also be seeing if I can get a good fit for Novatouch sliders.
Thank you for your feedback!
Lasercut? Clever.
It looks pretty amazing. Nice job dude.
Bummer, had this topic on watch and notify, but missed the second round. Noooooooo.
Bummer, had this topic on watch and notify, but missed the second round. Noooooooo.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F163B6m.jpg)
Love these controllers; really takes me back.
Can't wait for Round 3.
damn, can't wait till the controller caps are back in stock... :)
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F163B6m.jpg)
Love these controllers; really takes me back.
Can't wait for Round 3.
Looks good on your keyboard! How is it working for you as a backspace for you? I thought it rubbed against the + key on mine, so I never suggested using it there.damn, can't wait till the controller caps are back in stock... :)
I am back from my business trip, so round three is officially in the works :)
Based on feedback I plan on running a few test improvements this week, so I can open orders the first part of August.
Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/F163B6m.jpg)
Love these controllers; really takes me back.
Can't wait for Round 3.
Looks good on your keyboard! How is it working for you as a backspace for you? I thought it rubbed against the + key on mine, so I never suggested using it there.damn, can't wait till the controller caps are back in stock... :)
I am back from my business trip, so round three is officially in the works :)
Based on feedback I plan on running a few test improvements this week, so I can open orders the first part of August.
TL;DR - I shaved 1mm off the total height of the SuperCTRLr, making it a much better fit for R3 OEM and Cherry profiles. I also changed the stem shapes, aiming for a more universal fit.These look like some really great improvements! Thanks for taking them all into consideration :)
So I spent some time today tweaking the SuperCTRLr design. Overall I like the improvements, and hopefully it makes the keycap a better fit with wider compatibility.
The first order of business was to rework the stem shape:
(Attachment Link)
I made my original stem shape, the rectangle (left), as something that would "just fit" into a Cherry switch, and have plenty of strength and stability. Turns out it was a bit overkill.
As soon as I tried to make a keycap with stabilizers (the planet Saturn) I realized I needed a smaller stem; the clover (middle) was born. I can't just use circles, because I need some way to prevent unwanted rotation when hand assembling the stems and plates. Also there is a vertical and horizontal bar of the plus shape, one is 1.1mm the other is 1.3mm, so if you are off by 90 degrees, it causes problems.
SO today I made the lemon (right). Looking at several injection-molded keycaps, 'normal' stems seem to be between 5-6mm in diameter, with side walls that go all the way down to .5mm. I cannot go that thin when laser cutting without risking some serious warping and brittleness. This new shape still gives me more material than a stock stem (walls are about 1mm) with the vertical/horizontal cues easy to identify during assembly. This stem also performs both main and stabilizer duty.
(Attachment Link)
This lemon stem is cut at 6.7mm wide and 6.2mm tall. Because of the V-shaped grove the laser cuts while, my first key with new stem ends up being ~6.3mm x ~5.7mm at the base plate. This should put me into Novatouch territory (6.9mm circle). Since I don't have any on hand, I'll be asking a volunteer to test this out for me. :thumb:
The next improvement I wanted to tackle was overall height. Most of my other keys were really designed for R1 use (Fn/Esc, numbers, etc.) with an acceptable fit on R4. My main reference boards have OEM keys most of the time (shameful, I know, but thats what happens when your daily typer is an Alps/DSA board.) so I thought the little extra height was ok. Turns out I was wrong. :-[
(Attachment Link)
Here we have the old plate/stem assembly next to the revised plate/stem assembly. I was able to shave a little over 1mm off the total height, and have stem left over to shave for an even fit. This should also reduce the leaning issues a few people reported.
(Attachment Link)
While I've shaved off 1mm of total height, its actually down closer to ~1.5mm from the top of the stem. Some of the old stems left some gap after bottoming out against the top of the switch, this should no longer be the case. I am at the mercy of manufacturing variance in acrylic sheets, so this will vary a little. In this case the white sheet I cut the controller bodies out of is a little thin for a 3mm sheet. Overall the fit while using the key as an enter or shift is much nicer.
(Attachment Link)
This should show the improvements fairly well. Its still a bit of a potato pic. I really need to get a better lens, and use a tripod :))
The angle may not be the best, but the new height is just about flush. There is still no slope to the key, and using this technique I'd have to get... creative... to even think of making that possible.
(Attachment Link)
In the end I am happy with the improvements. Anything I missed?
TL;DR - I shaved 1mm off the total height of the SuperCTRLr, making it a much better fit for R3 OEM and Cherry profiles. I also changed the stem shapes, aiming for a more universal fit.
So I spent some time today tweaking the SuperCTRLr design. Overall I like the improvements, and hopefully it makes the keycap a better fit with wider compatibility.
The first order of business was to rework the stem shape:
(Attachment Link)
I made my original stem shape, the rectangle (left), as something that would "just fit" into a Cherry switch, and have plenty of strength and stability. Turns out it was a bit overkill.
As soon as I tried to make a keycap with stabilizers (the planet Saturn) I realized I needed a smaller stem; the clover (middle) was born. I can't just use circles, because I need some way to prevent unwanted rotation when hand assembling the stems and plates. Also there is a vertical and horizontal bar of the plus shape, one is 1.1mm the other is 1.3mm, so if you are off by 90 degrees, it causes problems.
SO today I made the lemon (right). Looking at several injection-molded keycaps, 'normal' stems seem to be between 5-6mm in diameter, with side walls that go all the way down to .5mm. I cannot go that thin when laser cutting without risking some serious warping and brittleness. This new shape still gives me more material than a stock stem (walls are about 1mm) with the vertical/horizontal cues easy to identify during assembly. This stem also performs both main and stabilizer duty.
(Attachment Link)
This lemon stem is cut at 6.7mm wide and 6.2mm tall. Because of the V-shaped grove the laser cuts while, my first key with new stem ends up being ~6.3mm x ~5.7mm at the base plate. This should put me into Novatouch territory (6.9mm circle). Since I don't have any on hand, I'll be asking a volunteer to test this out for me. :thumb:
The next improvement I wanted to tackle was overall height. Most of my other keys were really designed for R1 use (Fn/Esc, numbers, etc.) with an acceptable fit on R4. My main reference boards have OEM keys most of the time (shameful, I know, but thats what happens when your daily typer is an Alps/DSA board.) so I thought the little extra height was ok. Turns out I was wrong. :-[
(Attachment Link)
Here we have the old plate/stem assembly next to the revised plate/stem assembly. I was able to shave a little over 1mm off the total height, and have stem left over to shave for an even fit. This should also reduce the leaning issues a few people reported.
(Attachment Link)
While I've shaved off 1mm of total height, its actually down closer to ~1.5mm from the top of the stem. Some of the old stems left some gap after bottoming out against the top of the switch, this should no longer be the case. I am at the mercy of manufacturing variance in acrylic sheets, so this will vary a little. In this case the white sheet I cut the controller bodies out of is a little thin for a 3mm sheet. Overall the fit while using the key as an enter or shift is much nicer.
(Attachment Link)
This should show the improvements fairly well. Its still a bit of a potato pic. I really need to get a better lens, and use a tripod :))
The angle may not be the best, but the new height is just about flush. There is still no slope to the key, and using this technique I'd have to get... creative... to even think of making that possible.
(Attachment Link)
In the end I am happy with the improvements. Anything I missed?
TL;DR - I shaved 1mm off the total height of the SuperCTRLr, making it a much better fit for R3 OEM and Cherry profiles. I also changed the stem shapes, aiming for a more universal fit.
So I spent some time today tweaking the SuperCTRLr design. Overall I like the improvements, and hopefully it makes the keycap a better fit with wider compatibility.
The first order of business was to rework the stem shape:
(Attachment Link)
I made my original stem shape, the rectangle (left), as something that would "just fit" into a Cherry switch, and have plenty of strength and stability. Turns out it was a bit overkill.
As soon as I tried to make a keycap with stabilizers (the planet Saturn) I realized I needed a smaller stem; the clover (middle) was born. I can't just use circles, because I need some way to prevent unwanted rotation when hand assembling the stems and plates. Also there is a vertical and horizontal bar of the plus shape, one is 1.1mm the other is 1.3mm, so if you are off by 90 degrees, it causes problems.
SO today I made the lemon (right). Looking at several injection-molded keycaps, 'normal' stems seem to be between 5-6mm in diameter, with side walls that go all the way down to .5mm. I cannot go that thin when laser cutting without risking some serious warping and brittleness. This new shape still gives me more material than a stock stem (walls are about 1mm) with the vertical/horizontal cues easy to identify during assembly. This stem also performs both main and stabilizer duty.
(Attachment Link)
This lemon stem is cut at 6.7mm wide and 6.2mm tall. Because of the V-shaped grove the laser cuts while, my first key with new stem ends up being ~6.3mm x ~5.7mm at the base plate. This should put me into Novatouch territory (6.9mm circle). Since I don't have any on hand, I'll be asking a volunteer to test this out for me. :thumb:
The next improvement I wanted to tackle was overall height. Most of my other keys were really designed for R1 use (Fn/Esc, numbers, etc.) with an acceptable fit on R4. My main reference boards have OEM keys most of the time (shameful, I know, but thats what happens when your daily typer is an Alps/DSA board.) so I thought the little extra height was ok. Turns out I was wrong. :-[
(Attachment Link)
Here we have the old plate/stem assembly next to the revised plate/stem assembly. I was able to shave a little over 1mm off the total height, and have stem left over to shave for an even fit. This should also reduce the leaning issues a few people reported.
(Attachment Link)
While I've shaved off 1mm of total height, its actually down closer to ~1.5mm from the top of the stem. Some of the old stems left some gap after bottoming out against the top of the switch, this should no longer be the case. I am at the mercy of manufacturing variance in acrylic sheets, so this will vary a little. In this case the white sheet I cut the controller bodies out of is a little thin for a 3mm sheet. Overall the fit while using the key as an enter or shift is much nicer.
(Attachment Link)
This should show the improvements fairly well. Its still a bit of a potato pic. I really need to get a better lens, and use a tripod :))
The angle may not be the best, but the new height is just about flush. There is still no slope to the key, and using this technique I'd have to get... creative... to even think of making that possible.
(Attachment Link)
In the end I am happy with the improvements. Anything I missed?
Also, maybe this is a bit premature right now, but have you thought of an entire controller series? Maybe NES or Genesis? I think it would fantastically cool.
just saw the planet caps... had to order a moon for my upcoming moon tkl ;)
Also, maybe this is a bit premature right now, but have you thought of an entire controller series? Maybe NES or Genesis? I think it would fantastically cool.
Shhh.... thats a secret ;)
Ok, ok, I might be working on something like this:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I've still got some ultra-fine-tuning to fitting pieces together; I'm on the fence about engraving this one (some engraving locations are problematic on this layout); and I have an alternate color possibility I uncovered during prototyping that looked surprisingly awesome.
That said, I like how its coming along :)
Also, maybe this is a bit premature right now, but have you thought of an entire controller series? Maybe NES or Genesis? I think it would fantastically cool.
Shhh.... thats a secret ;)
Ok, ok, I might be working on something like this:
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
I've still got some ultra-fine-tuning to fitting pieces together; I'm on the fence about engraving this one (some engraving locations are problematic on this layout); and I have an alternate color possibility I uncovered during prototyping that looked surprisingly awesome.
That said, I like how its coming along :)
just saw the planet caps... had to order a moon for my upcoming moon tkl ;)
Glad to hear it! I got yours packaged up and ready to go today.
Since I had to make a new batch I threw Mars, Jupiter and a new Earth option into the mix.
yesssssss got my order in! <3 <3 <3 I really wanted 3 controllers but I respected your wishes and only bought 2 >_>
ooooooooh now how do I edit an order...
I have 2x of the R2 SuperCtrlr's, but I'd like to get an R3 as well. If I order one, can I be sure I'll get a R3, or one of the old stock?
Thanks.
Giveaway Time!
Target orders are 1024-1038, so this roll will be 1D20+1020. I will re-rolls anything out of range (duplicate orders will use the 1st order number).
And the winner is....Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pf4NyPP.gif)
1040! ... wait. :rolleyes:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/L4KMsqv.gif)
Order 1028!
This is an international order, so I will hold on to your package for now.
Everyone else will be dropped off at the post office today so it ships out first thing in the morning. Everyone should be getting notifications tomorrow.
Thanks everyone!
I just finished shipping all orders from this weekend. Including this guy for Nao, the giveaway winner:;D
(Attachment Link)
Just a heads-up for everyone who ordered a SuperCTRLr, some are a little more translucent than others. It looks like there was some confusion between 40% translucent and 40% opaque white when we switched suppliers. With the new stems, slimmer profile, and a little extra TLC during assembly this was still the best batch yet.
I'm planning a special 8-bit themed sale for August 16th. I've got several brand new keycap designs (and a couple multi-key sets) in the works that I look forward to sharing with everyone, so stay tuned :thumb:
I truly appreciate everyone's support.
Will you have more controllers for sale on the 16th?
Will you have more controllers for sale on the 16th?
I will only have a few on hand, they will not be the focus of this sale. Let me know what you're after and I'll see what I can do.
Pleasantly surprised to get our keycaps today! Havent put them on a board yet (they were delivered to my fiance at work as a surprise) but they look awesome! Thank you from Australia! :DShow Image(https://photos-3.dropbox.com/t/2/AABybGBBzBPUo4Mj2p9utl5ttkvYi0uamDy5b0cTS-rapA/12/10163376/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/20785950_10155564893042145_3291306293413350552_o.jpg/EPu_ygcYnfAQIAIoAg/s0V3v-74By_Nckdp0QngOREKQHPoU-GxygSTu7ndOE8?size=32x32&size_mode=5)
I don't see any of the 8bit stuff on the website. Was I too slow?
I don't see any of the 8bit stuff on the website. Was I too slow?
x2
Was hoping to grab a set of the heart container caps but don't see them on the site :-[
Good stuff man! I'll place an order when the site is updated and email you :)
Actually, I better wait a couple of days to see what else you have up your sleeve!
edit: I vote for yellow questionblock - will it match yellow of the superStar & 8bitStar?
Just an update to break the radio silence. :-[
Back in October I started a new full time job. It's been one hell of a ride since then. Trying to work a full time job, two side jobs, run 2 side businesses (this and one with my wife), and continue raising three kids just proves to be a little too much on the old time management skills. Throw into that a rough cold and flue season (no one too serious, thankfully) and being told by your land-lord of 7 years that they are selling the house out from under you... and well, you see where this is going. Because of the poor timing of the forced relocation, right before a planned move, my laser cutting machine will be going in storage for several months. I wont see it again until at least July. :'(
I've had a few orders over the last couple months I've been absolutely horrible at responding too. So if you are one of those people, I do apologize for the lengthy delays. I've only got 3 orders left to ship out, and they are just about ready to go. Everything else on the site has been marked out of stock for now. I'll get a good count of what I actually have ready to ship sometime next month, and make an announcement specifically for those. I will be sure to post here and send out an email to my list subscribers when I do.
I appreciate everyone who has supported me in this little experiment of mine, and I hope to at least have some updates on the project surrounding my inbound GMK Laser set later this year.