nice
Nice
Nice.
Nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
nice
Nice.
If anyone has good ideas about plate design/acoustic holes/fancy crap like that let me know, bc I want this to not be a Bad Keyboard
also I'll take/upload a pic of the plate design later. imagine a boring flat base with a small inset for an old-style machine tag like this
If anyone has good ideas about plate design/acoustic holes/fancy crap like that let me know, bc I want this to not be a Bad Keyboard
also I'll take/upload a pic of the plate design later. imagine a boring flat base with a small inset for an old-style machine tag like this
A riveted (like actual rivets, not looking riveted but really just adhesive) plate on the base with some information and maybe like a serial number/article number stamped into it could be REALLY neat.
Model:
Version/Rev:
Designer:
Article #:
Compatible software (something like that):
Controller:
It might have to go on the back and I imagine a lot of that would be silk-screened on, but stamping some of the information could be really cool. I'd definitely be willing to help with some of that, if needed.
y'all on my steez
Will it support switch top opening?
Will it support switch top opening?
No, I personally don't care for switchtop opening so this plate won't offer it
nicery'all on my steez
nice
estimated price?
estimated price?
not sure yet, i haven't gotten quotes yet but i'm hoping to after i go on vacation next week. my "goal" is sub $450 for the kit.
I'm totally unsure on final colors atm, it largely depends on who manufactures/finishes the boards. I'd like to do black, grey, silver, red, blue, green, gold, purple.. we'll see lol.
Since I'm looking for a good 1800CP board I'd be totally in for this... If we can make the ISO support happen.
Since the amount of people wanting this will probably be low, maybe you could just release the plate files so people who want it could get them cut themselves. Provided the PCB supports ISO layout obviously.
I can't find anywhere you explicitly said this but is this top mount or sandwich mount? I'm assuming top mount.
Some of the more exotic plate/weight options would be interesting. Any chance for poly plate as well? I do like the idea of partial plate for sure.
do something bright and funnnn. all recent keyboards have been the same colourssss, grey silver navy blue gold red. try other shades like pastel or something
when tf was the last keyboard that was GOLD?
when tf was the last keyboard that was GOLD?
first gold colored ones that come to mind are the mech27 v1 and fox orange tkl
Loving it so far - please make the cutout for the USB port wide enough to accommodate wide jackets/connectors.
when tf was the last keyboard that was GOLD?
first gold colored ones that come to mind are the mech27 v1 and fox orange tkl
when tf was the last keyboard that was GOLD?
first gold colored ones that come to mind are the mech27 v1 and fox orange tkl
I was mainly going towards the fact that the original commenter said “all” recent boards have been gold, which I disagreed with
The height of the opening is often an issue for mini, but USB-C is wider. I'd say 10mm H x 13mm W is safe for USB-CLoving it so far - please make the cutout for the USB port wide enough to accommodate wide jackets/connectors.
How wide?
Looks nice!
Would definitely be interested if there will be an option for ISO layout.
estimated price?
not sure yet, i haven't gotten quotes yet but i'm hoping to after i go on vacation next week. my "goal" is sub $450 for the kit.
Any plans to make a 60% version in the future?
What about cerakote color options, like on the M0110 running now? There are lots of places in the US that cerakote (mostly just guns though), and the range of colors is amazing.
Will this have an order limit or can anyone that wants in get one?
Do you have brief idea how much this may cost ? Looks good. :thumb:
I need this GB to happen! I dunno how soon I might cave and buy a FC980M and imagine it's an alu case lol
Reasonable price range I'd say. Curious if you'd consider doing an assembly service with added fee?
Nice
Nice
nice
Nice
nice
really like this, very interested. some ramblings follow...
extra plate holes - is there any concern of the plate's rigidity with the extra proposed holes in the plate? i like to think that at least part of the point of the plate is to absorb the shock of keypresses and remain flat to prevent any stress on the pcb/solder joints.
no switch top opening - not sure if this is good or bad. Personally i've never had to go in and 'fix' any switches, or felt the need to change out stems or springs. i think it would be some peace of mind to have the option, even tho i dont expect to ever make use of it. if the goal were to make the switches fit with no wiggle room, then why the universal plate?
half plate - really not sure why anyone would want this. I realize people want what they want but just looks like it will end up providing some amount of board flex on every keypress and is just asking for trouble later on. Maybe thats the point, to have the 'board flex' feel but personally i'd have misgivings typing on it, perhaps i'm just paranoid.
no RGB underglow - thank the **** christ
Lots of highly-regarded customs do this. The point is to help provide a uniform flex as well as areas where sound can escape from the plate rather than bouncing around within, I'm pretty sure. If the proto ones aren't great I'll change it.guess thats counter-intuitive to me, i would think more mass and less holes would make it more quiet, but maybe it works like baffles in a silencer and not a hole in a muffler? (i'm assuming a quieter keyboard is the goal, at least it would be for me). i'm certainly willing to go with your judgement based on the prototype
I for one don't really care for switch top opening, I think it detracts from the aesthetics of the board and allows some more wobble of the switches in my experience.i'm mostly on board with this, tho not for aesthetics but simply practicality since i've never needed them in the past. its rare that i'd be looking at the board without any caps
Half plates/no plates are very good for PCB-mount tactile switches. The point is indeed to let the PCB/plate flex naturally. If you've never typed on a PCB mount board, check it out.this is a fair point, i've not used tactile switches much if at all so i can't say i know what i'm missing. I do have a 2000-ish vintage g80-1800 which is pcb mount but the pcb butts up against plastic support ridges from the bottom case, which limits the strain and flex on the board. Half plate sounds like the strain will be on the nearest plate mounted switch's solder joints as well as allowing for a greater amount of board flex since its not backed by anything. I've got no plans to go with a half plate myself but if others are interested, i hope my paranoia is unfounded
Unfortunately I don't think these colors will be available on the group buy/production version of the board because the factory that produced the prototypes isn't willing to do a group buy through them. I'm weighing a few other options with a current likely manu (well known in the keyboard world at this point) and they don't do custom colors. We'll see what happens.
an interesting red color, it seems darker than the typical rocket red that i've seen on other boards. Also kind of a purple-ish hue to it but maybe thats just the lighting and my eyes playing tricks on me. Would be awesome to have a color that plays nice with gmk laserDon't worry, I'll take plenty of pics when I get it :cool:
-barcode
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/aAc9VPH.jpg)Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/0LO50NV.jpg)
Yesssssssss
protos should get to me in like 2 months or so
waiting on some prototype pcb stuff to come in, then pcb fun starts
protos should get to me in like 2 months or so
waiting on some prototype pcb stuff to come in, then pcb fun starts
Is the pcb fun starting?
Would be better without that gross iso hole.Why?
i'd mostly agree, the universal plate makes it so switches are not seated as securely as they could be so some different plate options would be great, but i doubt the minor improvement it provides would be worth the extra cost and confusion of multiple platesWould be better without that gross iso hole.Why?
i'd mostly agree, the universal plate makes it so switches are not seated as securely as they could be so some different plate options would be great, but i doubt the minor improvement it provides would be worth the extra cost and confusion of multiple platesWould be better without that gross iso hole.Why?
-barcode
Yea I added ISO bc people complained about it, I for one don't care for ISO so I'll be releasing ANSI only plate files so ppl can get em cut if they'd like.interesting... i hadnt considered modifying the plate and cutting my own, wonder how much it would cost to get a one-off done... would it be worth it to look at local lazer cutting services for a one-off?
Yea I added ISO bc people complained about it, I for one don't care for ISO so I'll be releasing ANSI only plate files so ppl can get em cut if they'd like.interesting... i hadnt considered modifying the plate and cutting my own, wonder how much it would cost to get a one-off done... would it be worth it to look at local lazer cutting services for a one-off?
on a side note, the plate looks like it doesnt support stepped caps lock (or maybe it only supports stepped caps lock?). at any rate it look like the caps key is in a fixed location.
-barcode
Really interested in this! A matte white would also be amazing but that black looks really cool too.
Please gibShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/KznrpNW.png)
Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/KznrpNW.png)
That blue looks sooo good!!!
This is the layout we need! I'd buy. Any numbers on weight?
I think it'd be fun to get quotes for a magnesium alloy case and tungsten plate/weight too for the hell of it.Any news about this yet?
I think it'd be fun to get quotes for a magnesium alloy case and tungsten plate/weight too for the hell of it.Any news about this yet?
Damn, I had hoped for a maximum of $$$$I think it'd be fun to get quotes for a magnesium alloy case and tungsten plate/weight too for the hell of it.Any news about this yet?
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Why didn't you put LEDs in the same place as Leopold FC980? They perfected 1800 layout to the point I can't see how any further improvement wouldn't be possible. Your keyboard seems like a step behind. I mean, it's not a deal breaker, but it would be better in my opinion.
The thing is, if you move LEDs to the right, you can stretch the F row more to the right, which is on one hand more aesthetically pleasing, and on the other hand a little bit more functional because it makes it easier to recognize which F key you need to press (which is something Kira keyboard got completely wrong).
Also, while we're at it, do we really need three LEDs?
I mean, when you think about it, the only really functional LED is Caps Lock. Scroll Lock is obsolete from like 1975, and Num Lock is not really necessary because if I didn't want to have it ON, I would buy TKL. So it makes sense to have it ON all the time.
i like it this way
Why didn't you put LEDs in the same place as Leopold FC980? They perfected 1800 layout to the point I can't see how any further improvement wouldn't be possible. Your keyboard seems like a step behind. I mean, it's not a deal breaker, but it would be better in my opinion.I may be wrong but I don’t think this particular board is called the Dario compact 1800
The thing is, if you move LEDs to the right, you can stretch the F row more to the right, which is on one hand more aesthetically pleasing, and on the other hand a little bit more functional because it makes it easier to recognize which F key you need to press (which is something Kira keyboard got completely wrong).
Also, while we're at it, do we really need three LEDs?
I mean, when you think about it, the only really functional LED is Caps Lock. Scroll Lock is obsolete from like 1975, and Num Lock is not really necessary because if I didn't want to have it ON, I would buy TKL. So it makes sense to have it ON all the time.
I may be wrong but I don’t think this particular board is called the Dario compact 1800
Why didn't you put LEDs in the same place as Leopold FC980? They perfected 1800 layout to the point I can't see how any further improvement wouldn't be possible. Your keyboard seems like a step behind. I mean, it's not a deal breaker, but it would be better in my opinion.
The thing is, if you move LEDs to the right, you can stretch the F row more to the right, which is on one hand more aesthetically pleasing, and on the other hand a little bit more functional because it makes it easier to recognize which F key you need to press (which is something Kira keyboard got completely wrong).
Also, while we're at it, do we really need three LEDs?
I mean, when you think about it, the only really functional LED is Caps Lock. Scroll Lock is obsolete from like 1975, and Num Lock is not really necessary because if I didn't want to have it ON, I would buy TKL. So it makes sense to have it ON all the time.
Ok now I can actually reply to all this lolSounds like this board ought to be called Spapeggy and meatballs?Why didn't you put LEDs in the same place as Leopold FC980? They perfected 1800 layout to the point I can't see how any further improvement wouldn't be possible. Your keyboard seems like a step behind. I mean, it's not a deal breaker, but it would be better in my opinion.
I've typed on an FC980M for the last seven months - easily my favorite board until I received and built my HBCP prototype. I moved the LEDs because I tried to include some influence from another one of my favorite boards, the Cherry G80-1800 - both to emulate the indicator cluster and pay homage to the origination of the 1800 layout and namesake.The thing is, if you move LEDs to the right, you can stretch the F row more to the right, which is on one hand more aesthetically pleasing, and on the other hand a little bit more functional because it makes it easier to recognize which F key you need to press (which is something Kira keyboard got completely wrong).
I moved the Fn row over on purpose, one to include the indicator cluster and also to have a uniform (1.25u) spacing between everything - including the Fn row and the alphas, which the FC980M doesn't do (1.5u there).Also, while we're at it, do we really need three LEDs?
I mean, when you think about it, the only really functional LED is Caps Lock. Scroll Lock is obsolete from like 1975, and Num Lock is not really necessary because if I didn't want to have it ON, I would buy TKL. So it makes sense to have it ON all the time.
The cool thing about keyboards (especially fully programmable ones) is that you can customize them to your own accord. I like having actual numlock because I do on occasion use the actual numpad nav keys, and it's a normal use case thing on numpads. With your logic, why should ANY keyboard these days have numlock? Scroll lock I do agree with, but it's still included as it's aesthetically pleasing and it does serve a purpose in keyboards. I wasn't looking to reinvent the wheel completely, but use the past and existing stuff as inspiration to create my own.
Besides, this PCB has RGB LEDs (WS2812b's) for the indicators - you can use them as normal underglow if you'd like. Currently I have mine set up with custom RGB values as indicators.
Also, I like it this way. If I wanted it to be different, I would've designed it differently. I like your ideas, and I'd urge you to include them on your own designs because I won't change mine to adapt them.
Just a quick question. On the specs list it says the keyboard has a "4 5 degree angle. Is this a typo, does it have a 4.5 degree angle, or is it a 4 or 5 degree angle?
did you ever decide who gets that one free HBCP yet? If I recall correctly, I was the only one who entered the drawing.
did you ever decide who gets that one free HBCP yet? If I recall correctly, I was the only one who entered the drawing.
yea everyone lost
Oh gosh does it look good. Any ETA for the GB by any chance? Really excited about the Xeno, but at the same time, I've always wanted to get my hands on a killer 1800 and this might be the one. Choices, choices.
does this have iso
Oh gosh does it look good. Any ETA for the GB by any chance? Really excited about the Xeno, but at the same time, I've always wanted to get my hands on a killer 1800 and this might be the one. Choices, choices.
Not for at LEAST another month. Likely more. I've explained it before a couple times on Discord etc I think, but the gist is that I'm not even 100% sure how I'd like to run the GB. I'm thinking it'd be better for my own sanity as far as QC and logistics go to do smaller runs of 20-30 boards max each time, with up to two colors per run. This may make each kit a bit more expensive, but still within my sub-$450 mark. I'll have to work on getting some quotes soon.
The other thing I'm still concerned with is that I'll be moving apartments/houses in March, and I really don't want the shipment process of a GB to coincide with that.
Also, I like it this way. If I wanted it to be different, I would've designed it differently. I like your ideas, and I'd urge you to include them on your own designs because I won't change mine to adapt them.
I would spend any amount of money on an unbranded weight. Branding is a crying shame, really makes you go 'oof' when you see it.
Not kidding, whatever an unbranded weight would cost, or if you need to sell me a crap load of them to meet some order quantity, I'm down.
Also, I like it this way. If I wanted it to be different, I would've designed it differently. I like your ideas, and I'd urge you to include them on your own designs because I won't change mine to adapt them.
Well, as a matter of fact, I do have some sketches of my own keyboard. I've been working on it for a while now, and it's something that has changed many, many times, growing and evolving together with me and my taste.
But to make the long story short, through careful weighting of all the factors involved, I decided that 1800 layout would be as close as possible to my imagined perfect keyboard. Furthermore, it would need to have:
- metal case (magnesium or aluminium, no need for steel on such a big keyboard)
- creamsicle ALPS switches
- PBT keycaps that look nice (probably never gonna find those, but man can hope, maybe Mathias will finally release something)
- titanium plate (ideal plate thickness for Alps is 1.1 or 1.2. Aluminium is too soft for such a thin plate, so you need to use carbon steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel or titanium. Carbon steel is going to rust if left unprotected, all other options are fine, however, titanium makes the best soothing sound)
- no weights (keyboard this big is already hefty enough)
- no universal or ISO layouts. (Holes that are not completely perfect mess with my OCD. Layout is a hybrid between HHKB and 1800)
- QMK
- USB-C
- curvy edges inspired by Realforce (here are some examples, like original Realforce and TaiChi
http://codeandlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/realforce.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hiaKG5v.jpg
- recessions for fingers on the sides of the keyboard (I can't possibly tell you how important this is. I do all kinds of stuff on my desk - roll tobacco, drink tea, have sex, draw schematics on the piece of paper etc. etc. All those things require you to move the keyboard away from you. Side-handles make this much more comfortable)
Again, few examples, TaiChi and Zambumon Verne
https://i.imgur.com/rMF36Hv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c8Zjy9j.jpg
- cerakote paint (powder coating can chip if you accidentaly hit it with something hard like a tea cup or a screwdriver, anodizing is too thin and will have scratches and scuffs through years of use. Cerakote, on the other hand, if baked on proper high temperature, is incredibly resilient and extremely durable finish, very very tough. Also, add to that excellent pallete of available lively colors)
Of course, I was looking all over the internet to find something that matches description, but the only Cherry 1800 clone that actually supported ALPS is TKC1800, and it was a far cry from my other requirements (ugly plastic case is the most obvious obsticle).
I did saw your keyboard before but I didn't care too much up until the moment you told me you will implement ALPS option, and then I realized it actually checks most of my boxes. And for those that it does not, there is some kind of solution.
For example, you don't offer titanium plates, but you said you will offer plate files, so that's OK because I can cut my own plate.
Also, I can see you don't plan to offer cerakote (actually, I don't know because you didn't answer that question) but maybe you can consider that option too? Or at least give me the option of buying raw aluminium case and then apply cerakote myself. It is theoretically possible to cerakote anodized case too, but you need to sandblast it first to remove anodized layer and that's a PITA.
The only thing that really bothers me is those side-handles. You really should consider something like that.
Also, I like it this way. If I wanted it to be different, I would've designed it differently. I like your ideas, and I'd urge you to include them on your own designs because I won't change mine to adapt them.
Well, as a matter of fact, I do have some sketches of my own keyboard. I've been working on it for a while now, and it's something that has changed many, many times, growing and evolving together with me and my taste.
But to make the long story short, through careful weighting of all the factors involved, I decided that 1800 layout would be as close as possible to my imagined perfect keyboard. Furthermore, it would need to have:
- metal case (magnesium or aluminium, no need for steel on such a big keyboard)
- creamsicle ALPS switches
- PBT keycaps that look nice (probably never gonna find those, but man can hope, maybe Mathias will finally release something)
- titanium plate (ideal plate thickness for Alps is 1.1 or 1.2. Aluminium is too soft for such a thin plate, so you need to use carbon steel, galvanized steel, stainless steel or titanium. Carbon steel is going to rust if left unprotected, all other options are fine, however, titanium makes the best soothing sound)
- no weights (keyboard this big is already hefty enough)
- no universal or ISO layouts. (Holes that are not completely perfect mess with my OCD. Layout is a hybrid between HHKB and 1800)
- QMK
- USB-C
- curvy edges inspired by Realforce (here are some examples, like original Realforce and TaiChi
http://codeandlife.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/realforce.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hiaKG5v.jpg
- recessions for fingers on the sides of the keyboard (I can't possibly tell you how important this is. I do all kinds of stuff on my desk - roll tobacco, drink tea, have sex, draw schematics on the piece of paper etc. etc. All those things require you to move the keyboard away from you. Side-handles make this much more comfortable)
Again, few examples, TaiChi and Zambumon Verne
https://i.imgur.com/rMF36Hv.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/c8Zjy9j.jpg
- cerakote paint (powder coating can chip if you accidentaly hit it with something hard like a tea cup or a screwdriver, anodizing is too thin and will have scratches and scuffs through years of use. Cerakote, on the other hand, if baked on proper high temperature, is incredibly resilient and extremely durable finish, very very tough. Also, add to that excellent pallete of available lively colors)
Of course, I was looking all over the internet to find something that matches description, but the only Cherry 1800 clone that actually supported ALPS is TKC1800, and it was a far cry from my other requirements (ugly plastic case is the most obvious obsticle).
I did saw your keyboard before but I didn't care too much up until the moment you told me you will implement ALPS option, and then I realized it actually checks most of my boxes. And for those that it does not, there is some kind of solution.
For example, you don't offer titanium plates, but you said you will offer plate files, so that's OK because I can cut my own plate.
Also, I can see you don't plan to offer cerakote (actually, I don't know because you didn't answer that question) but maybe you can consider that option too? Or at least give me the option of buying raw aluminium case and then apply cerakote myself. It is theoretically possible to cerakote anodized case too, but you need to sandblast it first to remove anodized layer and that's a PITA.
The only thing that really bothers me is those side-handles. You really should consider something like that.
Is this a joke?
It’s like someone giving way too much information about their life when you asked them how their day is.
I would spend any amount of money on an unbranded weight. Branding is a crying shame, really makes you go 'oof' when you see it.
Not kidding, whatever an unbranded weight would cost, or if you need to sell me a crap load of them to meet some order quantity, I'm down.
outside will be unbranded
inside will say something like the proto, not 100% final atm
Any word on the GB? Did you decide to wait until later so that it definitely won't interfere with your move?
Any word on the GB? Did you decide to wait until later so that it definitely won't interfere with your move?
yes
Hello,
I plan to pick up one of these keyboards when the time comes but i'm not a huge fan of the plate (big cut outs on bottom row).
On that note, would it be possible to get the plate design? I'm considering to get in on the titanium plate buy... if I can work out the layout somehow.
Will there be a possibility to buy one without a plate? ;)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So silver won't be a colour option?
<3
very large thanks to big Nathan Kim for the time and effort into this build for Arslock, as well as the features on Youtube and his instagram.
changes ima do for the final/next versionI'm in favor of most of the changes except the side bezels as I think any smaller would make the board look to thin.
- some sort of isolation for the indicator LEDs as they bleed a lot rn (prob just adjust the case top a bit)
- remove the side hole mounts for the plate (top/bottom only instead) for more uniform flex
- skinnier side bezels due to no plate mounting on the sides
- will prob switch to cap screws for the case itself so you don't strip em as easily with cheap bits
- lower radius inner fillets bc rn they're too rounded compared to good (GMK) caps
- might try and make the weight bigger still, lol
- change inner weight engraving stuff
changes ima do for the final/next versionI'm in favor of most of the changes except the side bezels as I think any smaller would make the board look to thin.
- some sort of isolation for the indicator LEDs as they bleed a lot rn (prob just adjust the case top a bit)
- remove the side hole mounts for the plate (top/bottom only instead) for more uniform flex
- skinnier side bezels due to no plate mounting on the sides
- will prob switch to cap screws for the case itself so you don't strip em as easily with cheap bits
- lower radius inner fillets bc rn they're too rounded compared to good (GMK) caps
- might try and make the weight bigger still, lol
- change inner weight engraving stuff
Any word on when the GB might start hineybush?
For anyone who sees this, would anyone be interested in a southpaw compact 1800? I just realized I think it might be a perfect layout. The functional width of a 60% board with all the functionality of an 1800 compact
Any word on when the GB might start hineybush?
For anyone who sees this, would anyone be interested in a southpaw compact 1800? I just realized I think it might be a perfect layout. The functional width of a 60% board with all the functionality of an 1800 compact
Any word on when the GB might start hineybush?
For anyone who sees this, would anyone be interested in a southpaw compact 1800? I just realized I think it might be a perfect layout. The functional width of a 60% board with all the functionality of an 1800 compact
Like this? https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97943.0 (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=97943.0)
hope everything goes smoothly with this, I know it will be a while but cant wait
hope everything goes smoothly with this, I know it will be a while but cant wait
Gahh this is perfect. Sad I missed it :(
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. At least, that's how I feel. Does anyone else feel the same??
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
Agreed, but I'd like to give the option of a 2u in that spot too. Esp for alps, since it's tough to find a good 1u for the numpad with correct legends.
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
Agreed, but I'd like to give the option of a 2u in that spot too. Esp for alps, since it's tough to find a good 1u for the numpad with correct legends.
Im having trouble visulizing how you would do this. Would you move the number pad further from the arrow cluster to have the space for a 2u zero key? Or would the the 2u 0 take the place of the 1u 0 and . Keys?
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
Agreed, but I'd like to give the option of a 2u in that spot too. Esp for alps, since it's tough to find a good 1u for the numpad with correct legends.
Im having trouble visulizing how you would do this. Would you move the number pad further from the arrow cluster to have the space for a 2u zero key? Or would the the 2u 0 take the place of the 1u 0 and . Keys?
latter
I know it is a long way in the future, but do you think there would be an option of a polycarb case? I think that would be my dream board and endgame
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. At least, that's how I feel. Does anyone else feel the same??
I feel the same. Still looking for a board with a 2u '0' key on the numpad without killing the '.' key.
No abandoning, just delaying until I can actually do it lol
No abandoning, just delaying until I can actually do it lol
Was really close to quoting your post in the Shoko thread. ;)
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
Agreed, but I'd like to give the option of a 2u in that spot too. Esp for alps, since it's tough to find a good 1u for the numpad with correct legends.
I love the 1800 layout with one exception. I need a 2u "0" key on the numpad. It's so natural to hit the 0 key with my thumb that the whole purpose of the numpad's design for entering numbers with speed becomes compromised without it. Does anyone else feel the same??
Part of the charm of the 1800 is having that 1U 0 and the arrow cluster there.
Agreed, but I'd like to give the option of a 2u in that spot too. Esp for alps, since it's tough to find a good 1u for the numpad with correct legends.
So uh, does this mean we might see an Alps PCB with this? ;D If that ends up being the case, I hope we can get one of each (Cherry/Alps) and an extra plate.
Any update on a timeline for a GB?
Niiice, that's good news!Any update on a timeline for a GB?
assuming my **** stays together and my current gbs can be shipped and dealt with in a timely manner, we're hoping to get a new proto of the design refresh in may or june
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Any update on a timeline for a GB?
assuming my **** stays together and my current gbs can be shipped and dealt with in a timely manner, we're hoping to get a new proto of the design refresh in may or june
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:eek:Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32736291657_7fee9cd3ad_h.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33801930458_19d80aede6_o.png)
sorry 4 grain, will make better renders overnight soon :)
v2 proto within a month or so i hope
Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32736291657_7fee9cd3ad_h.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33801930458_19d80aede6_o.png)
sorry 4 grain, will make better renders overnight soon :)
v2 proto within a month or so i hope
Any chance at a buy-in spot for one of the prototypes?
Any ETA for a GB? Or is it too early to speculate. Also, will the GB be a raffle only? Or will there be no limit on how many the factory will produce?
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Any ETA for a GB? Or is it too early to speculate. Also, will the GB be a raffle only? Or will there be no limit on how many the factory will produce?
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ETA is ideally June depending on how protos go I think. It'll be FCFS, amount is unknown but I think 40-50 seems reasonable. I have a RAL book coming, and will figure out colors. I'll prob choose 4, 5 max for anodization.
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I've got 3 words for you:
Poly carbon ate.
FR4 plate or case material? I'm talking about a full polycarb 1800 ;D
+10 on this suggestion. I have a George Takei "oh my" facial expression right now.FR4 plate or case material? I'm talking about a full polycarb 1800 ;D
ooooooo
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Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32736291657_7fee9cd3ad_h.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33801930458_19d80aede6_o.png)
sorry 4 grain, will make better renders overnight soon :)
v2 proto within a month or so i hope
Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32736291657_7fee9cd3ad_h.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33801930458_19d80aede6_o.png)
sorry 4 grain, will make better renders overnight soon :)
v2 proto within a month or so i hope
Something does not look right on those renders. Case on top picture is too thin?
Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32736291657_7fee9cd3ad_h.jpg)Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33801930458_19d80aede6_o.png)
sorry 4 grain, will make better renders overnight soon :)
v2 proto within a month or so i hope
Something does not look right on those renders. Case on top picture is too thin?
I think that's just the lower half of the board and not the bottom view. And he did mention that he wants a thin board.
Having not done a FCFS GB before, what should i expect with 40-50 boards? Will they go in 2 minutes or 2 days?
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Having not done a FCFS GB before, what should i expect with 40-50 boards? Will they go in 2 minutes or 2 days?
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this would be my guess as well. i think it's going to be a highly sought after boardHaving not done a FCFS GB before, what should i expect with 40-50 boards? Will they go in 2 minutes or 2 days?
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I'd gamble on the 2 minutes.
Wow, Polycarb. Big news. Extremely tempting for an Alps build. What sort of blue are you thinking? Mizu used a navy HBCP in it's renders and I can't get it out of my head. Looked good on the 1st protos too, but I know you mentioned it would be a different factory so different colors. Either way, hype. If you can get it under $450 for a full kit, that's icing on the cake.
If you could get this to 400$ this would be a no brainer.Without a brain you can't create a conditional statement.
Looking forward to this board. I wanna know how this looks with SA caps.
hi. this is happening this summer.Thought the blue proto looked really nice, would like to see it in the GB if possible.Show Image(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47816004271_76f755245b_o.png)
Hoping to toss polycarb into the mix. I ordered a prototype this week, should be here in about 2. I also got the new PCBs ordered and they should be here in the same timeframe. The alu prototype is in the works, should have that within the month. The alu version will be made by a very high profile maker's factory, and the PC one will be made at a widely used and well known one as well.
The goal is to do the group buy ideally the last week of June. It may be a bit longer out depending on protos/timelines/etc, but that'd be a good time for me as I have vacations/travel/other bs/etc to do in between.
I'm not sure how many PC ones will be available for the public-facing sale, but I hope to allow at least 10 to make it to that point. I believe I will have 40-50 aluminum units up for grabs as well.
The sale itself will be FCFS, with a date/time announced ahead of time. I'm still debating on whether to do Google Form or host it on my site as a product, because I'd like for people to be able to take their time in the decision process. I don't expect it to sell out in 30 seconds or anything, but you never know.
The colors aren't finalized yet. I'd like to do black and silver (clear ano) at least. There will likely be 2/3 more options, but which I'm not sure yet. Red/blue/green/gold/grey/pink are all being weighed, I'd like to get a few anodization samples (or examples from existing boards/group buys) from the factory ahead of time.
Est pricing is very very likely under $450 for a full kit. Full kit meaning top, bottom, weight, plate, and PCB (main and daughter). I don't have the alu case pricing yet, so it may still change.
Looking forward to this board. I wanna know how this looks with SA caps.
Looking forward to this board. I wanna know how this looks with SA caps.
It's a quite low-profile board, IMO would not look good with SA on it. I put a single SA key on the ESC when I was playing around with my proto and I just didn't like it so I never put a full set on. If you really want to see, I can try and wrangle the board to put SA on it for a pic.
Super interested in a polycarb! But if it's only 10 units I'm worried I won't be able to fill out the form in time
Super interested in a polycarb! But if it's only 10 units I'm worried I won't be able to fill out the form in time
Depending on how the proto turns out and the scaling (quality, price, etc) goes I may be able to do more. We'll see though.
Anyone using SA on HBCP is immediately banned from all hineybush group buys
:p :p :p
Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/312287977151660042/578369951321292891/unknown.png)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/312287977151660042/578371136296058894/unknown.png)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/578371573157724161/unknown.png)
Here are some very bad pictures, sorry for the cat hairs. Also sorry I don't have a stepped caps for Dasher, TIL...
I know I don't speak for everyone, but I'd say run the alu in neutral colors (grey/black/silver) and the PC in standard translucent PC.
Colored PC would take this from a "oh I'm probably going to grab this" to "this is a board that needs to be in my life", FWIW. I'm a big sucker for colored translucent plastics.I know I don't speak for everyone, but I'd say run the alu in neutral colors (grey/black/silver) and the PC in standard translucent PC.
That's my ideal run, however I'd like to please as many people as possible. I'm open to doing colored PC (and may do some color sampling and testing after my first clear PC proto comes). Silver will definitely be offered as it'll be a good base for cerakote etc. Then either black or grey. I'd still like to keep raw as an option and see about a secondary anodizing shop.
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I cast my vote on black and silver!I know I don't speak for everyone, but I'd say run the alu in neutral colors (grey/black/silver) and the PC in standard translucent PC.
That's my ideal run, however I'd like to please as many people as possible. I'm open to doing colored PC (and may do some color sampling and testing after my first clear PC proto comes). Silver will definitely be offered as it'll be a good base for cerakote etc. Then either black or grey. I'd still like to keep raw as an option and see about a secondary anodizing shop.
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Here are some very bad pictures, sorry for the cat hairs. Also sorry I don't have a stepped caps for Dasher, TIL...
I just threw up in my mouth a little bit
Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490228091551745/image0.jpg)
second bottom:Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490238942085141/image0.jpg)
ordered some stuff to send to my fab to try and color match for colored polycarb versions.
Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490228091551745/image0.jpg)
second bottom:Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490238942085141/image0.jpg)
ordered some stuff to send to my fab to try and color match for colored polycarb versions.
That's such a nice touch. Mirrored logo for seeing it when you have assembled the board. :cool:
oh god I need itShow Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490228091551745/image0.jpg)
second bottom:Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/581490238942085141/image0.jpg)
ordered some stuff to send to my fab to try and color match for colored polycarb versions.
Have you figured out if you want to host the GB via a Google forum or your website? I would prefer the latter as it's less stressful for some.
Really interested in seeing how the colored PC turns out. Do you have any colors in mind for it already?
Clear (normal), smoke grey, atomic purple*puts money aside immediately*
Clear (normal), smoke grey, atomic purple*puts money aside immediately*
Have you figured out if you want to host the GB via a Google forum or your website? I would prefer the latter as it's less stressful for some.
I'm thinking I'll do a raffle first, then FCFS (exclusing the winners of the raffle). Raffle will be Google Form, then I think FCFS will be through my site. I'm not 100% on that though, because I know it can be a pain in the ass to edit orders through my site/Shopify ordering.Really interested in seeing how the colored PC turns out. Do you have any colors in mind for it already?
Clear (normal), smoke grey, atomic purple
You are doing the most important work in keyboard history right hereClear (normal), smoke grey, atomic purple*puts money aside immediately*
I also bought a couple atomic purple GBC cases to have for reference. I'm gonna be sending one to the factory so they can produce samples for me.
Will this be less than $500? :eek:
I love this layout but don't want to get my hopes up unnecessarily.
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Hi update time againWoo! Looking forward to seeing how they turn out. I know people are really psyched for PC, but alu is what I'm in for so I'll be paying close attention.
i did a very small 5 unit aluminum proto run, collecting money from the participants rn and should submit payment next week. we'll see how they are :)
Hi update time againYeet
i did a very small 5 unit aluminum proto run, collecting money from the participants rn and should submit payment next week. we'll see how they are :)
Luckily stumbled upon an active thread with a 10key
Registered just to say that I'm definitely interested since i think the normal 1800 is too deep and I haven't seen much in the way of 10 key setups
Would probably be most interested in red or black
ah yes
black it is
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IIRC, You mentioned that you would have two runs of the board. One for the PC version and the other for the alu version. If this is true how far apart would each round be from each other?
Hey is this still coming this month? Because there's also Thermal, Olive, Oblivion and now No.1 all this month and I need to plan my finances and make choices ^^From his dc
Hey is this still coming this month? Because there's also Thermal, Olive, Oblivion and now No.1 all this month and I need to plan my finances and make choices ^^From his dcShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/8G7u09V.png)
yea mid july is what i'm thinking. waiting on CAD files to make an adjustment to the case, then the 5 proto run will occur, then once those are verified i'll start the actual GB. Mid-late July is most realistic atmHope it's not too much of a bother to ask how that timeline's looking at this point. No worries if it has to be pushed back—I know you've got a lot of irons in the fire right now—just really excited for this one.
yea mid july is what i'm thinking. waiting on CAD files to make an adjustment to the case, then the 5 proto run will occur, then once those are verified i'll start the actual GB. Mid-late July is most realistic atmHope it's not too much of a bother to ask how that timeline's looking at this point. No worries if it has to be pushed back—I know you've got a lot of irons in the fire right now—just really excited for this one.
yea mid july is what i'm thinking. waiting on CAD files to make an adjustment to the case, then the 5 proto run will occur, then once those are verified i'll start the actual GB. Mid-late July is most realistic atmHope it's not too much of a bother to ask how that timeline's looking at this point. No worries if it has to be pushed back—I know you've got a lot of irons in the fire right now—just really excited for this one.
Waiting on the protos.
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Soooo hype and sooo purdy!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/583472422582485023/598522805910503428/image0.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/598539683429089292/image0.jpg)
Protos in. They're great. Need to add ~1.0mm to the bottom case to raise it up a bit, bc right now the pins are too close to the inside of the bottom for my comfort. This can be fixed with e-tape/kapton or clipping/bending the switch pins, but that'd be annoying af. Will have one new bottom made for my eval and then we should be good to go.
Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/583472422582485023/598522805910503428/image0.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/598539683429089292/image0.jpg)
Protos in. They're great. Need to add ~1.0mm to the bottom case to raise it up a bit, bc right now the pins are too close to the inside of the bottom for my comfort. This can be fixed with e-tape/kapton or clipping/bending the switch pins, but that'd be annoying af. Will have one new bottom made for my eval and then we should be good to go.
Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/583472422582485023/598522805910503428/image0.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/598539683429089292/image0.jpg)
Protos in. They're great. Need to add ~1.0mm to the bottom case to raise it up a bit, bc right now the pins are too close to the inside of the bottom for my comfort. This can be fixed with e-tape/kapton or clipping/bending the switch pins, but that'd be annoying af. Will have one new bottom made for my eval and then we should be good to go.
Nice work!
No pressure but now that you have protos did you finalize thoughts on options etc?
Also how did the polycarb do
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Pink would be pretty sick tbh. Im in if you decide on it
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The bottom proto is gonna be pink so i can have a look at the color actually. gonna try for 1895U, like the X60 pink
The bottom proto is gonna be pink so i can have a look at the color actually. gonna try for 1895U, like the X60 pink
Ooh yeah... I want two in the pink...
Very interested in this board. Please make ISO standard and I will jump in. Good luck.
Very interested in this board. Please make ISO standard and I will jump in. Good luck.
It will be! Aside from the half plate, that's only because of the extra 1u needed, it doesn't work super well I think
since the poly has no weight now, will that reduce the cost vs the al version?
Have you gotten any pictures or samples of the purple polycarb?
Very interested in seeing how that is going to look!
Have you gotten any pictures or samples of the purple polycarb?
Very interested in seeing how that is going to look!
Pink would be pretty sick tbh. Im in if you decide on it
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The bottom proto is gonna be pink so i can have a look at the color actually. gonna try for 1895U, like the X60 pinkShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/lwduJ3S.jpg)
got the alu proto built up!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/312287977151660042/600401231982362644/image0.jpg)
got the alu proto built up!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/312287977151660042/600401231982362644/image0.jpg)
got the alu proto built up!Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/312287977151660042/600401231982362644/image0.jpg)
can u take a pic of the both alu protos next to each other?
made an account just to note - I'm so in for this.That would mean 2 different pcbs, making them both more expensive since the moq is pretty low. My guess is that there is only a handful of people wanting hot swap. So I highly doubt it.
also - will you be offering a version with hot swap sockets?
made an account just to note - I'm so in for this.That would mean 2 different pcbs, making them both more expensive since the moq is pretty low. My guess is that there is only a handful of people wanting hot swap. So I highly doubt it.
also - will you be offering a version with hot swap sockets?
made an account just to note - I'm so in for this.That would mean 2 different pcbs, making them both more expensive since the moq is pretty low. My guess is that there is only a handful of people wanting hot swap. So I highly doubt it.
also - will you be offering a version with hot swap sockets?
that makes sense i suppose - perhaps i can install some receptacles
made an account just to note - I'm so in for this.That would mean 2 different pcbs, making them both more expensive since the moq is pretty low. My guess is that there is only a handful of people wanting hot swap. So I highly doubt it.
also - will you be offering a version with hot swap sockets?
that makes sense i suppose - perhaps i can install some receptacles
lrn 2 soldr
Yea sorry no hotswap for this. Maybe if I ever do a future version or something.
Plan atm is to probably do a hybrid MX/alps PCB as that'd be most cost-effective.
This will also likely be pushed to mid-late August release, as I was informed I need to take a work trip in early-mid August.
The indicator area is based on the original Cherry G80-1800 indicators. I'm considering getting some screen-printed polycarb or brass (or something else, idk) badges for the area with indicator symbols.
Yea sorry no hotswap for this. Maybe if I ever do a future version or something.More time for me to gather funds for this board ;D
Plan atm is to probably do a hybrid MX/alps PCB as that'd be most cost-effective.
This will also likely be pushed to mid-late August release, as I was informed I need to take a work trip in early-mid August.
QuoteThe indicator area is based on the original Cherry G80-1800 indicators. I'm considering getting some screen-printed polycarb or brass (or something else, idk) badges for the area with indicator symbols.
Interested! Could you give some examples of how the indicator area would look like?
QuoteThe indicator area is based on the original Cherry G80-1800 indicators. I'm considering getting some screen-printed polycarb or brass (or something else, idk) badges for the area with indicator symbols.
Interested! Could you give some examples of how the indicator area would look like?Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/494533235762528257/603348164489117698/PZLhRkZW3PnqS96kcpfAzi3yW3mPe4x9L8u4ippiF0VDZdzU3zWklE-9m-0enlpbhBGy3XDes8SBys7eSNUWchLFK1-IP6zV29XL.png)
at this point i'm forgoing a badge or something like that for the light pipes. looks cleaner and simpler imo
QuoteThe indicator area is based on the original Cherry G80-1800 indicators. I'm considering getting some screen-printed polycarb or brass (or something else, idk) badges for the area with indicator symbols.
Interested! Could you give some examples of how the indicator area would look like?Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/494533235762528257/603348164489117698/PZLhRkZW3PnqS96kcpfAzi3yW3mPe4x9L8u4ippiF0VDZdzU3zWklE-9m-0enlpbhBGy3XDes8SBys7eSNUWchLFK1-IP6zV29XL.png)
at this point i'm forgoing a badge or something like that for the light pipes. looks cleaner and simpler imo
Is there a reason PCB designers don't leave room for us to add kailh hot swap sockets ourselves? That would seem like the best of both worlds. Can solder if you want or can install hot swap.
QuoteThe indicator area is based on the original Cherry G80-1800 indicators. I'm considering getting some screen-printed polycarb or brass (or something else, idk) badges for the area with indicator symbols.
Interested! Could you give some examples of how the indicator area would look like?Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/494533235762528257/603348164489117698/PZLhRkZW3PnqS96kcpfAzi3yW3mPe4x9L8u4ippiF0VDZdzU3zWklE-9m-0enlpbhBGy3XDes8SBys7eSNUWchLFK1-IP6zV29XL.png)
at this point i'm forgoing a badge or something like that for the light pipes. looks cleaner and simpler imo
Probably impossible at this point and overkill, but it would be immensely helpful to put the LEDS on a small breakout board that screws to the top and plugs into the pcb. Sometimes top mounted boards have to go in at an angle and it’s easy to bend the leds in that spot. Might not be the case in the HBCP.
Holtites is exactly my plan, this will (if I’m lucky) be my first build with ‘em.Is there a reason PCB designers don't leave room for us to add kailh hot swap sockets ourselves? That would seem like the best of both worlds. Can solder if you want or can install hot swap.
you can't have both hotswap sockets (like the Kailh ones) and solder pads with a diameter small enough to effectively/efficiently solder switch pins. you could always use holtite sockets however
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When can we preorder? Have a busy August and dont want to miss
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Lol ok well I might be behind the great firewall so hope i dont miss itWhen can we preorder? Have a busy August and dont want to miss
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towards the end. i'll announce/post the gb thread in advance lol
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Is there a reason PCB designers don't leave room for us to add kailh hot swap sockets ourselves?
you can't have both hotswap sockets (like the Kailh ones) and solder pads with a diameter small enough to effectively/efficiently solder switch pins. you could always use holtite sockets however
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Is there a reason PCB designers don't leave room for us to add kailh hot swap sockets ourselves?
you can't have both hotswap sockets (like the Kailh ones) and solder pads with a diameter small enough to effectively/efficiently solder switch pins. you could always use holtite sockets however
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Thanks. I knew there must be a reason I never saw that available.
Laser ALT sporting red Sky Pandas
*sigh*
How many units are up for grabs? Another lovely board that I will never touch.
*sigh*
How many units are up for grabs? Another lovely board that I will never touch.
*sigh*
How many units are up for grabs? Another lovely board that I will never touch.
50ish alu 30ish polycarb
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Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Further up this page hiney says late August.
Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Further up this page hiney says late August.
Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Further up this page hiney says late August.
reading can be difficult
Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Further up this page hiney says late August.Still no word, hint or announcement on when GB will be?
Further up this page hiney says late August.
reading can be difficult
It has changed so many times though. So "late August" can mean a lot of things. I've seen May, June, July and now August lmao. Maybe I just can't read. Can you blame me for wanting a more specific time frame. Or it could be me just not having patience. Who knows. :p
Is there a source for 1800 layout alps keycaps?
Is there a source for 1800 layout alps keycaps?
Is there a source for 1800 layout alps keycaps?
As far as an easily available set, you can always look at the kprepublic xda alps set that just came out. They're blanks, but they'd get the job done at least.
....
yea tru, been delayed a bit bc i've been busy with stuff lol. late august seems the most definite at this point. I actually got the new, deeper bottom piece today. I have yet to check it out, but assuming it's good to go, that's the last thing I need to do design-wise.
Is there a source for 1800 layout alps keycaps?
As far as an easily available set, you can always look at the kprepublic xda alps set that just came out. They're blanks, but they'd get the job done at least.
I have a mighty need for that purple PC.
purp pc turned out wellShow Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/604387180470861824/image0.jpg)Show Image(https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/514878619667922946/604387179975671853/image1.jpg)
Did you decide on any finalization of available layouts? Massdrop has some zeal stabilizers that i want to pick up
when this product will be release ? Can`t wait for more longer ;D ;D ;D I`m so excited for this version
when this product will be release ? Can`t wait for more longer ;D ;D ;D I`m so excited for this version
end of august, i havent had a lot of time to plan it but i hope to do that next week
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5 degree angle~I like this angle
With all the interest has the amount that will be available increased or still 100?
5 degree angle~I like this angle
I'm sure you could ask a mod to open a GB post... but it's still a good angle :p :p
500 or less i think. gonna hopefully get that all together in the next week or so
Did you decide on any finalization of available layouts? Massdrop has some zeal stabilizers that i want to pick upShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/X6XEvEd.png)
also a 2u on the bottom 2x1u on the numpad
Did you decide on any finalization of available layouts? Massdrop has some zeal stabilizers that i want to pick upShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/X6XEvEd.png)
also a 2u on the bottom 2x1u on the numpad
is ISO support still gonna be available..?
Did you decide on any finalization of available layouts? Massdrop has some zeal stabilizers that i want to pick upShow Image(https://i.imgur.com/X6XEvEd.png)
also a 2u on the bottom 2x1u on the numpad
is ISO support still gonna be available..?
yea ill have an updated one of those for the gb
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GB soon?!
GB soon?!
Have quotes for everything but the PCBs. Waiting on those, then I will announce the buy!
I will post the GB thread early next week but here is the gist:
HBCP GROUP BUY INFO
Date: Sunday September 8 at 1PM EST
Pricing:
Aluminum: $500
Ano colors: Silver, Black, Pink (Pantone 1895u)
Poly No weight bottom: $475
Poly weighted bottom: $500
PC coating: Clear, Purple
Extra PCBs: $38
Plate options:
MX Brass (universal)
MX FR4 Full and Half (universal)
ALPS Aluminum and FR4 Full (WKL bottom row, 2u bottom key in numpad, ANSI)
Plate files will be released after the initial buy happens.
Estimated lead time until I start shipping: 3 Months from mid-September
ALUMINUM UNITS: 65 avail
PC UNITS: 35 avail
This will be FCFS. I will have extras after I ship the GB orders. Likely some A stock and B stock
Alps + MX PCB or 2 separate? If separate I hope you'll consider keeping Cherry PCB stabilizer holes for SP Alps sets :)
Just wondering, will all versions of the keyboard have branding on it or will it only be on the brass weight? In which case I could try to pick up the poly version with no weight.
Is a plate included in the base price, and we just select the type of plate we want?
Any plans to do another run?ya in a couple months probs
oh yes please can there be another run i don't even know how to solder but i would totally learn and practice just to be able to build an hbcpdef learn and practice regardless, it's a very good skill to have
Where do we get notified for the next run of these amazing boards? I badly needed 1800 layout, but this is the best i 1800 i can see, and i just knew about this GB, i'm new to the Hobby btw. :(
Is there a Discord for this?
Where do we get notified for the next run of these amazing boards? I badly needed 1800 layout, but this is the best i 1800 i can see, and i just knew about this GB, i'm new to the Hobby btw. :(
Is there a Discord for this?
There's a discord link in hiney's website footer.
https://discord.gg/v8DCE7G