Post by: emdude on Sun, 19 June 2016, 18:59:04
The initial keyboard plates that I will be working on will be created with Swill's great plate builder (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=65189.0), then modified to fully support various layouts.
+ To download a design directly, just right-click the 'Direct' or 'SVG' link and save-as "<plate>.dxf" or "<plate>.svg", respectively
+ Layouts are tested and without issue unless otherwise stated
Completed Layouts:
- AEK, by hasu (https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=profile;u=3412):
- Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.dxf), Github (https://github.com/tmk/alps64/tree/Plate_AEK_RevA), Image (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.png) - Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock):
- Alps-style stabilizers: Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/AT101.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/nX1Y2G4.png)
- Alps-style stabilizers, Costar-stabilized space bar (Untested): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101_COSTAR.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101_COSTAR.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/AT101_COSTAR.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/nRFYoWn.png) - Dell AT101W (6.25u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock):
- Alps-style stabilizers (Untested): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101W.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101W.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/AT101W.dxf), Image (https://deskthority.net/resources/image/30878)
- Alps-style stabilizers, Costar-stabilized space bar (Untested): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101W_COSTAR.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101W_COSTAR.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/AT101W_COSTAR.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/rmORLPj.png) - Tai-Hao (6.25u Space Bar, Unstepped Caps Lock):
- Alps-style stabilizers, Costar-stabilized space bar (Tested, with potential issues with right shift stab?): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/TAIHAO.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/TAIHAO.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/TAIHAO.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/Ny2Z7Sr.png) - IBM 5140 (7u Space Bar, Unstepped Caps Lock, Big-Ass Enter, Winkeyless):
- Alps-style stabilizers: Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/5140.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/5140.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/5140.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/sU5Ga4g.png)
- NOTE: This is a unique BAE layout! This is likely incompatible with BAE keys from Northgate, Focus, etc. keyboards! - Infinity (6u Space Bar, Unstepped Caps Lock):
- Alps-style stabilizers, Costar-stabilized space bar (Untested): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/INFINITY_COSTAR.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/INFINITY_COSTAR.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/INFINITY_COSTAR.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/jUNNSwc.png) - HHKB (6u Space Bar, Unstepped Caps Lock):
- Alps-style stabilizers, Costar-stabilized space bar (Untested): Direct (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/HHKB_COSTAR.dxf), SVG (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/HHKB_COSTAR.svg), Github (https://github.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/blob/master/HHKB_COSTAR.dxf), Image (http://i.imgur.com/ITDvQBt.png)
- Nothing ATM
- AT102W
+ If you have a plate made and discover an issue, please report it here so I can make the necessary corrections!
+ Note that plates should be 1.0-1.2mm in thickness per Alps specs in order for switches to properly clip in!
Please let me know if you have suggestions, advice, criticism, etc. as I am a bit inexperienced with CAD and just projects like these in general.
Many thanks to Swill, Phoible, Wingpad, BlueNalgene, Alh84001, FletchINKy, hasu, and the others who have helped contribute to this!
Post by: Wingpad on Sun, 19 June 2016, 21:52:43
I sent my AEKII drawing off to get fabbed today. I am considering this to be a test run since I am not 100% confident in it; however, it has passed my preliminary tests and seems to be laid out correctly, we will find out for sure soon! Once I get all of the details sorted out, I will be open-sourcing it for personal use and (hopefully) use in future GBs. I would post it now but I don't want to get responses like "It doesn't woooooork," haha.
Here is a render of what it will (should?) look like:Show Image(https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45456.0;attach=140101;image)
So expect another update about that stuff soon!
Post by: emdude on Sun, 19 June 2016, 22:11:54
Post by: axtran on Mon, 20 June 2016, 07:21:40
Sent from my iPhone
Post by: Wingpad on Mon, 20 June 2016, 07:51:26
Would be cool if you could do variants which supported Cherry/Costar plate stabilizers, too. That way more people could support them through SP group buys--their DCS keys use the Cherry stab mounts.
That would not be very hard, actually; it's much easier to do Costar stabilizers than Alps because swill's tool properly generates them.
EDIT: I have attached an untested drawing of an AEKII based layout with cherry/costar-stabilizers. If someone wants to run this and see what happens, go for it.
[attach=2]
Post by: tmrmn on Mon, 20 June 2016, 14:10:00
Post by: Wingpad on Mon, 20 June 2016, 14:19:33
I ordered some stuff to build my first ALPS board, an 60% AEKII. Wanted to use costar stabs anyway so the timing of your drawing is perfekt. It will be some weeks until all the parts arrive but I'm going to test out your AEKII Costar plate and report back.
Ah, excellent, thanks! I make no guarantees about it but it should work. If you downloaded the first version of it you should re-download it since I fixed a minor cosmetic issue. I am looking forward to hearing back from you.
Post by: tmrmn on Mon, 20 June 2016, 14:30:50
Ah, excellent, thanks! I make no guarantees about it but it should work. If you downloaded the first version of it you should re-download it since I fixed a minor cosmetic issue. I am looking forward to hearing back from you.
No worries, I'll try with MDF first to make sure everything fits before cutting acrylic (yes, will be an acrylic plate ;) )
Post by: Wingpad on Mon, 20 June 2016, 14:48:38
I'll try with MDF first to make sure everything fits before cutting acrylic (yes, will be an acrylic plate ;) )
Hmmm, I am not sure how well this would work acrylic; since the material you would use to these make plates is so thin (1-1.5mm), I'd worry about some of the finer details cracking. In addition, it can warp if you're laser cutting it. If you want to use acrylic perhaps I should generate and tweak a version with co-star only stabilizers as well (this version has both costar and cherry compatibility).
Post by: jbondeson on Mon, 20 June 2016, 15:08:20
Post by: emdude on Mon, 20 June 2016, 15:30:41
@jbondeson, thank you, I'll add that Alps plates should be 1.0-1.2mm in thickness for switches to properly clip in.
Post by: Wingpad on Mon, 20 June 2016, 16:02:33
Plates with Alps-style stabilizers are my main priority since Swill's plate builder cannot do those, I can add Cherry/Costar stabilized plates but the builder should be able generate those just fine.
I agree with this; however Swill's plate builder does screw up hole placement for alps/pok3r plates (mostly the center hole which it places between two switches and the one beneath the spacebar when using cherry-style stabilizers). It's a simple fix but, for convenience purposes, listing them here mightn't be a bad idea.
Post by: emdude on Mon, 20 June 2016, 16:47:05
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 20 June 2016, 20:51:09
Post by: mike52787 on Mon, 20 June 2016, 20:53:06
Post by: emdude on Mon, 20 June 2016, 21:28:18
Post by: muon on Mon, 20 June 2016, 21:34:44
Post by: emdude on Mon, 20 June 2016, 21:54:00
Post by: muon on Mon, 20 June 2016, 23:38:23
Not completely, it does not support Alps-style stabilizers for the space bar and case mounting holes overlap with other stabilizers. I did use plates generated using it as a starting point though.
Good to know, thanks for the clarification! :thumb:
Post by: emdude on Tue, 21 June 2016, 00:59:48
Also an update, I believe I am nearly done with the AT101 plate, and since I have key caps for it, I hope to get a prototype made soon.
Post by: emdude on Sun, 26 June 2016, 01:13:46
(http://i.imgur.com/nX1Y2G4.png)
Note the two bottom space bar stabilizers, they are closer together than they would be on an AT101 plate to accommodate a stabilizer wire like the one below. The SGI stabilizer is like this one, but I don't think it will matter if a traditional, longer stab is used.
(http://i.imgur.com/PIw3AdJ.jpg)
Post by: Wingpad on Wed, 29 June 2016, 18:13:24
Post by: emdude on Wed, 29 June 2016, 18:23:15
I guess I will also wait to mark your design as tested until you make those quick corrections.
Post by: emdude on Wed, 29 June 2016, 18:40:27
Post by: lootbag on Wed, 29 June 2016, 21:15:12
Made myself based on Duck's Viper/Eagle ALPS plate file and SwillKB.
Plate should arrive next Monday and I will know how everything fits.
Let me know if you guys would like me to share.
Post by: need on Wed, 29 June 2016, 21:18:59
I have a HHKB CAD/DXF file that I used to get a plate made over Taobao.Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Made myself based on Duck's Viper/Eagle ALPS plate file and SwillKB.
Plate should arrive next Monday and I will know how everything fits.
Let me know if you guys would like me to share.
Post by: emdude on Wed, 29 June 2016, 21:27:40
I have a HHKB CAD/DXF file that I used to get a plate made over Taobao.
Made myself based on Duck's Viper/Eagle ALPS plate file and SwillKB.
Plate should arrive next Monday and I will know how everything fits.
Let me know if you guys would like me to share.
Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Post by: FletchINKy on Thu, 30 June 2016, 09:51:38
Are you designing alps plates that will work in standard 60% cases? Or is this just about reusing the caps/stabs that come with the boards originally?
I've got a few extra AT101Ws, one currently down to the plate, let me know what measurements and the best formatting for those measurements is (indexing off what?) Feel free to PM me if it's too technical.
Post by: emdude on Thu, 30 June 2016, 11:15:03
The AT101W plate is at the point where it is more or less finished though (but not tested as of yet), but I could really use confirmation of particular measurements, specifically for the space bar stabs. I'll PM you about that when I get home.
Post by: Wingpad on Fri, 01 July 2016, 20:45:20
I'm just going to leave these here:
(http://i.imgur.com/xnlpALx.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ZHNs2PH.jpg)
Post by: lootbag on Sat, 02 July 2016, 02:41:48
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Never worked on a AEK plate, only interested in HHKB really.
Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Prototype arrived, everything fits great so far.
I need to buy a AT101W for keycaps and the 7U spacebar/stabilizer wire.
(http://i.imgur.com/pXYerV8.jpg)
Need some confirmation here.
I forgot to make the cutout for center stem Caps Lock, instead it is shifted and will use the bottom two solder points.
The AT101w caps lock key should work for this position right?
(http://i.imgur.com/mCcgA5N.jpg)
Post by: emdude on Sat, 02 July 2016, 08:35:30
I posted a pull request with the corner radii and return stabilizer fixed; however, I might need some help with the spacebar stabilizer pin mount (if we want it to be perfect). Unfortunately, I can't measure my plate more precisely until I find my calipers. That being said, this design does work so I feel like my work has finally paid off...
I'm just going to leave these here:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/xnlpALx.jpg)Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ZHNs2PH.jpg)
Nice! I will go ahead and merge your change. Thanks! :thumb:
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Never worked on a AEK plate, only interested in HHKB really.Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Prototype arrived, everything fits great so far.
I need to buy a AT101W for keycaps and the 7U spacebar/stabilizer wire.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pXYerV8.jpg)
Need some confirmation here.
I forgot to make the cutout for center stem Caps Lock, instead it is shifted and will use the bottom two solder points.
The AT101w caps lock key should work for this position right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mCcgA5N.jpg)
Wow, neat design! :) And yes, stepped Caps Lock keys like the ones on the AT101 and AT101W will work with that.
Quick update too: My prototype AT101 plate should be coming in today or Tuesday. I've also asked fletchINKy for help on some measurements, including some for the space bar pin stabs.
Post by: emdude on Sun, 03 July 2016, 00:45:29
I will mark the AT101 as finished and tested with the caveat that the stabs will need to be fixed.
EDIT: From an initial, imprecise measurement, it seems that the clip cutouts are closer to being 2.0mm squares than 2.5mm, I would be very grateful if anyone could confirm this or get more precise measurements.
Post by: cy384 on Tue, 05 July 2016, 10:17:59
Post by: Wingpad on Tue, 05 July 2016, 10:48:22
I have an (M3501, ANSI) AEK plate, its stabilizers, and some calipers handy, are there specific measurements you need?
We're mostly concerned with the spacebar stabilizer pin holder, if you could help us verify the measurements shown in blue here that would be great.
(http://i.imgur.com/ALbDqOw.png)
Now, not all of these are easy to take with a caliper (center-to-center measurements being rather difficult) so edge-to-edge measurements would be fine as long as we can derive the same quantities from them. Thanks!!
Post by: hasu on Tue, 05 July 2016, 13:50:44
I have an (M3501, ANSI) AEK plate, its stabilizers, and some calipers handy, are there specific measurements you need?
We're mostly concerned with the spacebar stabilizer pin holder, if you could help us verify the measurements shown in blue here that would be great.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/ALbDqOw.png)
Now, not all of these are easy to take with a caliper (center-to-center measurements being rather difficult) so edge-to-edge measurements would be fine as long as we can derive the same quantities from them. Thanks!!
This is the dimesion from my flimsy caliper job.
(http://i.imgur.com/Rcpa4Z2.png)
I also have worked a AEK plate design in KiCAD these days and thinking of making it with 1.2mm PCB.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64/tree/plate.
Post by: cy384 on Tue, 05 July 2016, 14:02:12
This is the dimesion from my flimsy caliper job.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rcpa4Z2.png)
You beat me to it. Just finished; my measurements agree with yours.
Post by: Wingpad on Tue, 05 July 2016, 15:02:02
You beat me to it. Just finished; my measurements agree with yours.
This is the dimesion from my flimsy caliper job.Thank you both for these measurements, they are very appreciated! I'll update my AEK plate design when I get a chance.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/Rcpa4Z2.png)
I also have worked a AEK plate design in KiCAD these days and thinking of making it with 1.2mm PCB.I didn't realize you had a plate design, hasu; we'll have to update the OP to include yours as well (if you don't mind, that is). Are you thinking of adding support for other layouts too?
https://github.com/tmk/alps64/tree/plate.
Post by: emdude on Tue, 05 July 2016, 15:40:50
As for the measurements for the clip cutouts adjacent to the circular stab, 2.4mm is an interesting figure. FletchINKy has been very helpful in providing me with some additional measurements for these cutouts too. They seem to differ a bit from what you guys have though.
An average of his measurements gives me approximately 2.2mm. Let me know what you guys think of this.
Just from personal experience though I have found that the space bar peg stab fits more loosely on my AEK plate than it does on my other Alps plates.
Post by: Wingpad on Tue, 05 July 2016, 15:55:41
Thanks for the help, cy384 and hasu. I can definitely update the OP to include hasu's plate design, but to avoid confusion, we should probably only have the most accurate version of a particular layout in the OP. Has it been tested to work perfectly?
Given that my drawing is already in the DXF format that many laser cutting services use it might just be more convenient to leave mine, for now. hasu has way more experience with this kind of stuff, though, so if his plate design works perfectly then we should consider losing mine in favor of using his.
As for the measurements for the clip cutouts adjacent to the circular stab, 2.4mm is an interesting figure. FletchINKy has been very helpful in providing me with some additional measurements for these cutouts too. They seem to differ a bit from what you guys have though.
An average of his measurements gives me approximately 2.2mm. Let me know what you guys think of this.
Just from personal experience though I have found that the space bar peg stab fits more loosely on my AEK plate than it does on my other Alps plates.
I think that I will go with the 2.2mm measurement when I rework mine, then. They fit pretty loosely in my stock AEK plate and considering that at 2.5mm the mount was very loose, I think opting for the smaller size is safer.
Post by: BlueNalgene on Tue, 05 July 2016, 17:16:03
Post by: hasu on Tue, 05 July 2016, 18:42:41
Thanks for the help, cy384 and hasu. I can definitely update the OP to include hasu's plate design, but to avoid confusion, we should probably only have the most accurate version of a particular layout in the OP. Has it been tested to work perfectly?
As for the measurements for the clip cutouts adjacent to the circular stab, 2.4mm is an interesting figure. FletchINKy has been very helpful in providing me with some additional measurements for these cutouts too. They seem to differ a bit from what you guys have though.
An average of his measurements gives me approximately 2.2mm. Let me know what you guys think of this.
Just from personal experience though I have found that the space bar peg stab fits more loosely on my AEK plate than it does on my other Alps plates.
The 2.4mm is from my AEK2(and AEK1), are you sure he got teh measurement from AEK plate? From FletchINKy's post, I guess his plate is AT101W.
And I need some help.
1. Screw hole
Swill's tool and our DXFs uses 5.0mm by default for screw holes, is it commonly used in the community? Original Poker X screws(with washer) have 5.4mm dia, the holes are too small for them at least.
I'm thinking of going with 6.3mm, the bigger holes are the easier one handles screws.
(http://i.imgur.com/sAg4RVw.jpg)
2. Switch cutout size
Swill's tool and our DXFs uses 15.6mm x 12.8mm and AEK2 plate uses 15.6mm x 12.9mm size from my measurement. Meanwhile, datasheet says it is 15.5mm x 12.8mm and I'm using this size on my design but it is too snug with switches?
Post by: emdude on Wed, 06 July 2016, 02:16:21
2. I can say that switches fit without issue in 15.6mm x 12.8mm cutouts, and are not too snug; I don't believe 15.5mm x 12.8mm cutouts will cause issues.
I have went ahead and updated the AT101 and AT101W plates to use 2.2mm clip cutouts for the circular stabilizers, I've also adjusted the two bottom space bar stabs on the AT101W based on fletchINKy's measurements.
Post by: hasu on Thu, 07 July 2016, 00:04:12
I'll go with 15.5mmx12.8mm as the datasheet says. And finished my design.
(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.png)
I'll make a plate and report it here some later.
Post by: emdude on Thu, 07 July 2016, 20:14:06
(http://i.imgur.com/rmORLPj.png)
(http://i.imgur.com/nRFYoWn.png)
Post by: hasu on Thu, 14 July 2016, 00:19:43
Thanks emdude,
I'll go with 15.5mmx12.8mm as the datasheet says. And finished my design.Show Image(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.png)
I'll make a plate and report it here some later.
Got AEK PCB plate and checked it with my Alps64 PCB, original AEK plate and Poker X case. Space bar and stabilized keys work and I didn't find any problem so far.
I didn't solder switches and fully assembled them though, I'd say my AEK plate is ready.
(http://i.imgur.com/PWhZrK0.jpg)
You can get KiCAD design files and DXF exported by KiCAD here.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64/tree/Plate_AEK_RevA
Post by: emdude on Thu, 14 July 2016, 11:19:28
Post by: Wingpad on Thu, 14 July 2016, 11:23:36
Got AEK PCB plate and checked it with my Alps64 PCB, original AEK plate and Poker X case. Space bar and stabilized keys work and I didn't find any problem so far.
I didn't solder switches and fully assembled them though, I'd say my AEK plate is ready.
Oh good! I don't think Wingpad will mind if I use your plate design for the OP. Thanks hasu! :DAwesome, that's good to hear. Thanks, hasu!
I don't mind at all :thumb:
Post by: FletchINKy on Fri, 22 July 2016, 06:07:57
It seems things got squared away? My dissimilar measurements were accurate, but being accidentally compared to an AEK?
I plan on using this 60% layout to cut some harvested plates down to fit standard 60 cases.
Post by: emdude on Fri, 22 July 2016, 11:06:05
The .DXFs or the image files should work just fine as templates for cutting up larger plates, good luck!
Post by: phoible on Mon, 01 August 2016, 12:07:44
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
Post by: emdude on Mon, 01 August 2016, 12:19:33
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
If you don't get an answer before the end of the day, I can grab the path length using Autocad for you when I get home. I haven't really used Freecad so I'm afraid I do not know how to find path length using it.
Post by: phoible on Mon, 01 August 2016, 12:23:54
Post by: duynguyenle on Mon, 01 August 2016, 16:12:10
Yeah, we ultimately used your measurements for the space bar stab clip cutouts. Everything should be good to go, pending prototypes for the AT101W layout, which I may be able to do in a few months.
The .DXFs or the image files should work just fine as templates for cutting up larger plates, good luck!
I noticed in the latest version of the Dell and AEK plates, there isn't a cutout for the centre mounting bolt to the case. Is this intentional? I'm throwing together a quick layout for the ISO version of the Dell board (AT102W) just to check the dimensions (this is a bit quick and dirty, using a bog-standard ruler, as I don't have my calipers with me. I'm wondering if it's possible to have a plate that is both compatible with Dell ANSI keyset and the Tai-Hao keyset (Costar spacebar). Just glancing at the plate layout for both, I think it's probably possible to have a plate with cutouts for both costar and alps clips.
Can anyone have a look at my ISO plate and chime in (sorry if the dimensions are a bit out of whack, I was just eyeballing it). I might try getting these laser-cut and see what happens. There's a laser shop near my work, but they have a 125GBP minimum order :(
Post by: emdude on Mon, 01 August 2016, 16:45:37
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
Post by: duynguyenle on Mon, 01 August 2016, 16:58:42
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
That's basically what I did, I got the printout for Swill's plate builder with an ISO format, then moved the bits around until it roughly matches an AT102W I had around. I think the holes for the spacebar clips are a bit further up than swill's tool generated, since I wasn't sure the geometry was possible to make by laser cutting (the bottom edge of the cutout had a thickness of like 0.02mm... seems a bit low). I also had to manually place the holes where the two columns on the spacebar go into (again, kinda eyeballed it with a bog standard, pretty imprecise ruler)
Never heard of lasergist before, have you had any experiences using them? How much would a 60% plate typically cost using this service?
Post by: emdude on Mon, 01 August 2016, 17:13:08
A few other members and I have got plates made at Lasergist. I had the AT101 prototype made using their service. They charge about $40 for a 60%-sized plate, free shipping from Greece included. The quality is pretty good, their laser cutters can handle that 0.02mm thickness you mentioned just fine (I will double-check this when I get home though).
EDIT: To further clarify, the specs for their laser cutter have a tolerance of 0.01mm.
Source: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=10693166
Post by: duynguyenle on Mon, 01 August 2016, 17:25:43
Ah, all right. What I also like to do, if you have not tried this yourself, is to get a 1:1 scale print out to overlay over a bare plate. It's pretty silly and probably a bit imprecise, but it might help catch some errors. It's helped me at least once.
A few other members and I have got plates made at Lasergist. I had the AT101 prototype made using their service. They charge about $40 for a 60%-sized plate, free shipping from Greece included. The quality is pretty good, their laser cutters can handle that 0.02mm thickness you mentioned just fine.
Basically the reason I moved the clip hole up a few tenths of a mm was because I got this plate from someone over at DT, and it had a defect near the clip position:
https://imgur.com/a/G2ABz
Just thought putting a bit more material in the way would avoid this happening. I'll probably take your advice and do a 1:1 print at work tomorrow, and compare it with the plate. That should help.
I'll request a quote from the laser cutting house near me. They have a pretty high minimum order, but it's worth having a look just for the sake of comparison (I'm planning to get some 1800 plates cut as well, so combining the orders might meet their minimum amount anyway.
Post by: emdude on Mon, 01 August 2016, 19:52:32
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
If you don't get an answer before the end of the day, I can grab the path length using Autocad for you when I get home. I haven't really used Freecad so I'm afraid I do not know how to find path length using it.
The path length is 4446.3479mm, which sounds about right.
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
That's basically what I did, I got the printout for Swill's plate builder with an ISO format, then moved the bits around until it roughly matches an AT102W I had around. I think the holes for the spacebar clips are a bit further up than swill's tool generated, since I wasn't sure the geometry was possible to make by laser cutting (the bottom edge of the cutout had a thickness of like 0.02mm... seems a bit low). I also had to manually place the holes where the two columns on the spacebar go into (again, kinda eyeballed it with a bog standard, pretty imprecise ruler)
Never heard of lasergist before, have you had any experiences using them? How much would a 60% plate typically cost using this service?
Okay, I was incorrect, the measurement I got was 0.1171mm, which sounds much more reasonable. This was for both the AT101 and AT101W plates, so I guess this is what should be generated from Swill's tool. I am a little bit confused about your figure now, it does seem rather small.
Am I correct in saying this was what you needed clarification on:
(http://i.imgur.com/qV9BKAm.png)
Post by: duynguyenle on Mon, 01 August 2016, 20:11:15
Yes, the lack of a cutout for the center screw is intentional; an Alps switch cutout is wider than that of a Cherry MX switch. I'm not sure if there would be enough clearance between the two switches to fit in the screw (though I have not tested this).
I can put together a plate that supports both the Alps-style and Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar later, as well.
As for the AT102W plate, I cannot take a look at it right now, but if you are unsure of your measurements, then I recommend generating a plate using Swill's plate builder first then modifying it as needed. The measurements used to generate the plate work just fine (at least for ANSI layouts), the only modification that should be needed are for the space bar stabs and also the ISO Enter which, from a cursory look, appears to have the proper cutout, albeit with mirrored stabs. I can also put together an AT102W plate if you'd like.
For getting a plate cut, I recommend using Lasergist. Their services are much cheaper.
That's basically what I did, I got the printout for Swill's plate builder with an ISO format, then moved the bits around until it roughly matches an AT102W I had around. I think the holes for the spacebar clips are a bit further up than swill's tool generated, since I wasn't sure the geometry was possible to make by laser cutting (the bottom edge of the cutout had a thickness of like 0.02mm... seems a bit low). I also had to manually place the holes where the two columns on the spacebar go into (again, kinda eyeballed it with a bog standard, pretty imprecise ruler)
Never heard of lasergist before, have you had any experiences using them? How much would a 60% plate typically cost using this service?
Okay, I was incorrect, the measurement I got was 0.1171mm, which sounds much more reasonable. This was for both the AT101 and AT101W plates, so I guess this is what should be generated from Swill's tool. I am a little bit confused about your figure now, it does seem rather small.
Am I correct in saying this was what you needed clarification on:Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/qV9BKAm.png)
Yes that's the guy! Maybe I misread the printout when I was measuring that distance. In any case, I've moved the hole up to 0.3mm in my drawing (from that miniscule 0.11mm like your picture). That shouldn't affect normal operation of the stabiliser wire should it?
Post by: emdude on Mon, 01 August 2016, 21:05:54
In any case, Lasergist should be able to handle that 0.11mm without issue.
Post by: hasu on Tue, 02 August 2016, 00:17:10
Anyone know how to calculate the total path length for a dxf (or dwg) file? I have freecad (but not autocad), and can download anything else that's free.
I'm trying to get an AEK plate made by lasergist, but I need to know the path length (and they don't seem to be responding to the contact form).
You can get the length with QCAD or LibreCAD.
1) Select all of the paths with Menu: Select > Select All
2) Go to Menu: Info > Total length of ...
http://www.qcad.org/doc/qcad/3.15.4/reference/en/scripts/Pro/Information/InfoTotalLength/doc/InfoTotalLength_en.html
Measured alps64_aek_plate.dxf with LibreCAD:
Quote
Total Length of selected entities: 4422.0681
Post by: BlueNalgene on Tue, 02 August 2016, 00:34:20
It shouldn't.. But I'm not sure, probably best to check with the printout.
In any case, Lasergist should be able to handle that 0.11mm without issue.
Alternative solution. You can find pathlength in Inkscape by using Extensions->Visualize Path->Measure.
Post by: phoible on Tue, 02 August 2016, 09:58:09
Looking forward to (finally) finishing my AEK build.
Once I get my keyboard built, happy to get that GB off the ground with the supplier in LA that Emdude found (although with shipping, the price probably won't be that much lower than Lasergist).
Post by: duynguyenle on Tue, 02 August 2016, 13:34:51
Ok. Ordered Hasu's AEK plate on Lasergist. Will post pictures when it arrives.
Looking forward to (finally) finishing my AEK build.
Once I get my keyboard built, happy to get that GB off the ground with the supplier in LA that Emdude found (although with shipping, the price probably won't be that much lower than Lasergist).
What what what GB? I must''be missed that bit! :p
Post by: phoible on Tue, 02 August 2016, 15:45:38
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 02 August 2016, 15:51:04
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 03 August 2016, 12:50:58
Just wanted to confirm that the center screw hole position isn't needed. The wider Alps switches preclude using a screw in that position, so no need for a screw hole there.
I see, thanks for the clarification!
Post by: emdude on Sun, 07 August 2016, 16:02:31
I also added a plate design that supports the keysets currently produced by Tai-hao (Dolch, Olivette, and WoB). Please note that the important distinction here is the use of Costar-style stabilizers for the space bar and an unstepped Caps Lock. If you plan to use a Tai-hao keyset, use this design and not the AT101W.
As always, if you are willing to have an untested plate made, please report here with your results. Any input on issues would be greatly appreciated.
Post by: MandrewDavis on Wed, 10 August 2016, 11:31:43
Quote from: Lasergist
Hello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Post by: emdude on Wed, 10 August 2016, 11:40:50
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 10 August 2016, 11:52:34
I contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Hi peeps,
I too have been making some inquiries to laser houses around my area (turns out there is one laser cutting company right down the road from my office. They have confirmed they can provide plates of both 1.5mm (Cherry) and 1.2mm (Alps) in both stainless steel and Aly 6082 (good all-around alloy, good price to tensile performance too, although that isn't gonna make much of a difference in the application for keyboard plates)
I'm probably going to be making an order from them within the next few weeks, just waiting for my workload to drop off a little so I can have a bit more time for keyboards... Also they have a minimum order of £125, so I'm probably going to order more plates than I need (planning to get some Cherry 1800 plates cut as well). Just spending a bit of time tweaking my Dell ISO files.
Also, I've been looking at the Alpine Winter keyset, and obtained some excess keys from SP grab bags. I was quite surprised to find that all their large keys have cherry stems (spacebars, shifts, enters and such). Does anyone here have an Alpine Winter set in their possession? I'm curious to find out how you stabilise the mods. Do you just use your Alps wire holder with Costar stem insert? How well does it work and does it hold the key in place without wobbling? Would be great if anyone can chime in on this.
I'll keep working on my Dell ISO plate and try and get it cut, and report my findings here.
Anyone here based in the UK/EU? I'm going to have quite a few AEK plates cut based on Hasu's files, since he confirmed fitment with his FR-4 plate, probably will have a few extras afterwards.
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
Post by: BlueNalgene on Wed, 10 August 2016, 13:02:17
MoreI contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Hi peeps,
I too have been making some inquiries to laser houses around my area (turns out there is one laser cutting company right down the road from my office. They have confirmed they can provide plates of both 1.5mm (Cherry) and 1.2mm (Alps) in both stainless steel and Aly 6082 (good all-around alloy, good price to tensile performance too, although that isn't gonna make much of a difference in the application for keyboard plates)
I'm probably going to be making an order from them within the next few weeks, just waiting for my workload to drop off a little so I can have a bit more time for keyboards... Also they have a minimum order of £125, so I'm probably going to order more plates than I need (planning to get some Cherry 1800 plates cut as well). Just spending a bit of time tweaking my Dell ISO files.
Also, I've been looking at the Alpine Winter keyset, and obtained some excess keys from SP grab bags. I was quite surprised to find that all their large keys have cherry stems (spacebars, shifts, enters and such). Does anyone here have an Alpine Winter set in their possession? I'm curious to find out how you stabilise the mods. Do you just use your Alps wire holder with Costar stem insert? How well does it work and does it hold the key in place without wobbling? Would be great if anyone can chime in on this.MoreI'll keep working on my Dell ISO plate and try and get it cut, and report my findings here.
Anyone here based in the UK/EU? I'm going to have quite a few AEK plates cut based on Hasu's files, since he confirmed fitment with his FR-4 plate, probably will have a few extras afterwards.
Ooh, finally something I can answer without breaking the Chinese wall for this open source project.
The Alpine Winter caps require a cruciform stabilizer insert, and this can be used with the classic Alps stabilizer clip (the small rectangle on the board). The Matias stabilizer sets have the plastic parts you will need for this. They also include stabilizer wires, but the lengths are incorrect. This can be easily remedied by rebending the stab wires. Some folks have been using wire bending tools for this task, while I personally have been using pliers/hammer/anvil to do it. Either way, correctly rebending the wires produces a well stabilized cap that doesn't have any noticeable rocking or fluttering.
Here (https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/stabilizer-and-hook-set) is a link to the Matias stabilizers.
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.msg1917032#msg1917032) is a link to a size reference. (Edit: for the Alpine Winter caps.)
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75803.0) is a link to the GB I had for the stabilizers with some pictures and pricing info. Hint: cheaper in bulk.
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 10 August 2016, 14:15:08
MoreI contacted Lasergist about any possibility of steel between 1 and 1.5mm thick and here is their response;Quote from: LasergistHello MandrewDavis,
Thanks for getting in touch! In fact we do have 1.2mm Stainless Steel available for laser cutting.
The price would be the same as using 1.5mm if you want to check out some pricing on our Product Configurator: http://lasergist.com/shop/lasergist
We can also provide you with custom pricing depending on your request- so, what are you interested in making?
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
--
Lasergist.com
Also, is the AEK plate design final?
Hi peeps,
I too have been making some inquiries to laser houses around my area (turns out there is one laser cutting company right down the road from my office. They have confirmed they can provide plates of both 1.5mm (Cherry) and 1.2mm (Alps) in both stainless steel and Aly 6082 (good all-around alloy, good price to tensile performance too, although that isn't gonna make much of a difference in the application for keyboard plates)
I'm probably going to be making an order from them within the next few weeks, just waiting for my workload to drop off a little so I can have a bit more time for keyboards... Also they have a minimum order of £125, so I'm probably going to order more plates than I need (planning to get some Cherry 1800 plates cut as well). Just spending a bit of time tweaking my Dell ISO files.
Also, I've been looking at the Alpine Winter keyset, and obtained some excess keys from SP grab bags. I was quite surprised to find that all their large keys have cherry stems (spacebars, shifts, enters and such). Does anyone here have an Alpine Winter set in their possession? I'm curious to find out how you stabilise the mods. Do you just use your Alps wire holder with Costar stem insert? How well does it work and does it hold the key in place without wobbling? Would be great if anyone can chime in on this.MoreI'll keep working on my Dell ISO plate and try and get it cut, and report my findings here.
Anyone here based in the UK/EU? I'm going to have quite a few AEK plates cut based on Hasu's files, since he confirmed fitment with his FR-4 plate, probably will have a few extras afterwards.
Ooh, finally something I can answer without breaking the Chinese wall for this open source project.
The Alpine Winter caps require a cruciform stabilizer insert, and this can be used with the classic Alps stabilizer clip (the small rectangle on the board). The Matias stabilizer sets have the plastic parts you will need for this. They also include stabilizer wires, but the lengths are incorrect. This can be easily remedied by rebending the stab wires. Some folks have been using wire bending tools for this task, while I personally have been using pliers/hammer/anvil to do it. Either way, correctly rebending the wires produces a well stabilized cap that doesn't have any noticeable rocking or fluttering.
Here (https://matias.store/collections/keycaps-and-switches-1/products/stabilizer-and-hook-set) is a link to the Matias stabilizers.
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=70817.msg1917032#msg1917032) is a link to a size reference. (Edit: for the Alpine Winter caps.)
Here (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=75803.0) is a link to the GB I had for the stabilizers with some pictures and pricing info. Hint: cheaper in bulk.
Ah thanks for chiming in, I do have on hand a Matias clip set, can confirm they include Costar-looking inserts for their spacebar. I do have a set of Costar stabiliser inserts lying about somewhere. I can try and find them to do a quick side-by-side against the inserts in the Matias set, but from a quick visual inspection (read: just eyeballin' it) of the Matias spacebar insert, they seem identical. I'll carry on with the assumptions that the modifier keys in AW keyset can all use Costar insert with bent wires like those pictures.
Post by: emdude on Wed, 10 August 2016, 21:07:29
Anyhow, fixed the Tai-hao plate.
Edit: I also forgot to ask, what is an appropriate corner radius to use for best compatibilities with the 60% cases on the market (be it aluminium like the Tex cases or plastic Aliexpress ones)
It is 2.5mm (at least for the cheap plastic case I got as well as Hasu's Alps64 PCB).
Post by: phoible on Wed, 10 August 2016, 22:57:05
The cutouts for keys seems to match up perfectly with the stock AEK plate.
I ordered 1MM thick steel, and the ALPS switches clip in just fine.
I will probably build it up this weekend if I get time.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: duynguyenle on Sat, 13 August 2016, 11:21:18
Just got my AEK plate in 304 Stainless from Lasergist. I ordered it on August 2nd, and it arrived today in San Francisco, so turnaround time was pretty fast. Fit and finish is good - the top is perfect, and only a few scratches on the bottom (I didn't choose back side brushing or the touch up bath). It cost me $43 including trackable shipping, which is a lot less than big blue saw wanted.
The cutouts for keys seems to match up perfectly with the stock AEK plate.
I ordered 1MM thick steel, and the ALPS switches clip in just fine.
I will probably build it up this weekend if I get time.
(Attachment Link)
That looks pretty damn good! Did you use Hasu's plate file?
I just got a quote from a local laser shop as well for my AEK/Dell ISO plate, looks like my local shop can do the plates for £20 for each AEK plate in either Stainless or Aly 5251 (no cost differential between materials). The difference between the path length between AEK plate and Dell plate (2 extra switch holes) ended up being only a few pennies. They don't offer any surface finishing option or post processing (deburring, anodising or so forth). They do have the appropriate thicknesses in both materials (I asked for 6082 but they don't stock 6000 series under 3mm thick)
I'm going to make an order for a few plates in both materials at the end of the month and report back.
Post by: phoible on Sat, 13 August 2016, 17:35:28
Sounds you got a really good price on that plate.
Post by: emdude on Sat, 13 August 2016, 17:39:44
Post by: phoible on Sat, 13 August 2016, 19:25:11
Post by: emdude on Wed, 17 August 2016, 22:47:41
This plate also uses the updated measurements for the space bar circular stab; I have confirmed these measurements to work just fine with the 5140 plate. As the AT101 plate also uses an identical 7u space bar, I can now confirm it to work without any issues!
Post by: rand77 on Wed, 31 August 2016, 01:01:25
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Post by: emdude on Wed, 31 August 2016, 01:06:17
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Oh, cool! Which layouts do you plan to use?
Post by: rand77 on Wed, 31 August 2016, 10:40:51
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Oh, cool! Which layouts do you plan to use?
I'm thinking 3 AEK, or 2 AEK + 1 plate supporting tao hao alps keycaps (one off using lasergist). The AEK plates would probably be most effective getting cut locally with increasing quantity.
Post by: emdude on Wed, 31 August 2016, 10:53:15
Thanks to all for their efforts for making open source plate designs a reality.
I have 3 Alps64 PCBs lying around waiting to be built for a few friends. As such, I'll be cutting several plates.
If anyone else is interested in a plate, I can look into having a few extra cut, as it might be slightly more cost effective to have several made.
Oh, cool! Which layouts do you plan to use?
I'm thinking 3 AEK, or 2 AEK + 1 plate supporting tao hao alps keycaps (one off using lasergist). The AEK plates would probably be most effective getting cut locally with increasing quantity.
Okay, please let me know how the Tai-hao plate comes out!
Post by: Slippery_John on Tue, 13 September 2016, 18:14:02
Hi loot bag, did the AEK one that you made a while ago worked out perfectly?
Never worked on a AEK plate, only interested in HHKB really.Oh sure, we'd really appreciate your contribution! Let us know how it goes! ;D
Prototype arrived, everything fits great so far.
I need to buy a AT101W for keycaps and the 7U spacebar/stabilizer wire.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/pXYerV8.jpg)
Need some confirmation here.
I forgot to make the cutout for center stem Caps Lock, instead it is shifted and will use the bottom two solder points.
The AT101w caps lock key should work for this position right?Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/mCcgA5N.jpg)
How did that end up working out?
Post by: emdude on Tue, 13 September 2016, 21:50:51
Post by: waqar on Thu, 15 September 2016, 18:25:57
Let the adventure begin.
Post by: m3atworks on Wed, 21 September 2016, 01:07:49
Always shows up empty?
Would anyone be so kind to upload it as an .eps or svg?
regards
-s
edit...
nvm I managed to open it in houdini...and re-export.
thanks!!!
Post by: emdude on Wed, 21 September 2016, 01:31:41
Hi guys, I'm trying to load the dxf file for the AT101 into pretty much any program that can read dxf.
Always shows up empty?
Would anyone be so kind to upload it as an .eps or svg?
regards
-s
That's strange, I can open the 'Direct' downloaded file just fine in FreeCAD. Sorry about that, I've attached an SVG. Let me know if you need anything else.
Post by: m3atworks on Wed, 21 September 2016, 01:43:39
Hi guys, I'm trying to load the dxf file for the AT101 into pretty much any program that can read dxf.
Always shows up empty?
Would anyone be so kind to upload it as an .eps or svg?
regards
-s
That's strange, I can open the 'Direct' downloaded file just fine in FreeCAD. Sorry about that, I've attached an SVG. Let me know if you need anything else.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Post by: m3atworks on Wed, 21 September 2016, 05:04:15
I uploaded the linked dxf file to lasergist.com and they said the file was invalid also.
Seems like some programs can read it and some can't.
I sent them the svg you attached. So thank you again for that.
cheers
-s
Post by: hasu on Wed, 21 September 2016, 13:28:58
QCAD refuses to open AT101.dxf but I can open it with LibreCAD and it includes some LISP code on layer :D
The LISP code probably causes the problem with Lasergist and some CADs?
[attachimg=1]
Post by: emdude on Wed, 21 September 2016, 14:09:18
emdude,
QCAD refuses to open AT101.dxf but I can open it with LibreCAD and it includes some LISP code on layer :D
The LISP code probably causes the problem with Lasergist and some CADs?
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for letting me know, that was what I using to find total path length of objects, but it looks like I somehow imported the code block as actual objects. :-X
EDIT: For ease of use, I think I will upload SVG versions of all the plate designs when I can get around to it.
EDIT 2: And done.
Post by: alienman82 on Tue, 01 November 2016, 22:56:09
Post by: duynguyenle on Sun, 06 November 2016, 19:24:07
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
Post by: alienman82 on Sun, 06 November 2016, 19:30:08
Post by: hasu on Sun, 06 November 2016, 20:21:01
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
AT101W.dxf seems to has two excess lines, remove them at the beginning and end of the file.
Code: [Select]
<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Post by: emdude on Sun, 06 November 2016, 20:25:32
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
AT101W.dxf seems to has two excess lines, remove them at the beginning and end of the file.Code: [Select]<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Thanks a ton, hasu, and sorry about the issue, duynguyenle. I'll go ahead and fix this. AutoCAD is really picky when it comes to .dxf files, but a program like FreeCAD should work too.
EDIT: It is fixed. It appears that only the standard AT101W had those extraneous lines so everything else should work. Please let me know if you run into any other issues.
Those seem to be conflict markers generated by git, I suppose AutoCAD wouldn't have any of it.
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 09 November 2016, 14:59:14
Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.Hi emdude,
I am unable to open the Dell AT101W file in AutoCAD 2017 (or any of the direct .dxf files for that matter). Upon opening the files as plaintext, I noticed a section at the end of the file named Thumbnail_Data, could this be what's causing the failure to open the file? I don't know enough about the actual file structure of .dxf to comment about this or how to fix these files.
AT101W.dxf seems to has two excess lines, remove them at the beginning and end of the file.Code: [Select]<<<<<<< HEAD
...
>>>>>>> cbbad0bf702589c60d733f9f0721427f232183cc
Thanks a ton, hasu, and sorry about the issue, duynguyenle. I'll go ahead and fix this. AutoCAD is really picky when it comes to .dxf files, but a program like FreeCAD should work too.
EDIT: It is fixed. It appears that only the standard AT101W had those extraneous lines so everything else should work. Please let me know if you run into any other issues.
Those seem to be conflict markers generated by git, I suppose AutoCAD wouldn't have any of it.
Thanks for your efforts :)
Post by: Slippery_John on Fri, 18 November 2016, 07:39:15
Post by: merlin64 on Fri, 18 November 2016, 09:44:49
A GB can finally be run for any Alps plate layout. Thank you emdude and everyone who contributed.
Question, I see different formatting in the description. I see
1. Alps Style, Costar Style stabilizers (untested)
2. Alps Style (untested)
Costar Style (untested)
Does the first formatting mean that Alps Style is confirmed and the Costar is untested. Or does it mean both are untested?
Post by: pabile on Sun, 27 November 2016, 20:52:25
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
any idea on how the design be corrected? i am currently asking asking to cut this same plate for me and i have no access nor experience with the applications used to make the necessary adjustment.
Post by: hasu on Sun, 27 November 2016, 21:02:14
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
any idea on how the design be corrected? i am currently asking asking to cut this same plate for me and i have no access nor experience with the applications used to make the necessary adjustment.
Install QCAD or LibreCAD, they are intuitive and don't require much time to learn.
Post by: pabile on Sun, 27 November 2016, 21:07:26
Install QCAD or LibreCAD, they are intuitive and don't require much time to learn.
thanks, hasu. i'll download either of the two and advise.
Post by: axtran on Sun, 04 December 2016, 09:29:14
Post by: duynguyenle on Sun, 04 December 2016, 11:26:47
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
I believe you can generate your own plate using swills tool. Just make sure you select the appropriate stabiliser options
Post by: MandrewDavis on Sun, 04 December 2016, 20:38:51
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
Which layout are you planning to use? I could probably modify one of the dxf files for you, but it won't be tested.
Post by: axtran on Mon, 05 December 2016, 15:08:37
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: emdude on Thu, 15 December 2016, 21:13:53
I set e-mail notifications for this topic but clearly that has not worked for at least a month.
Wow!!! This is so awesome!
A GB can finally be run for any Alps plate layout. Thank you emdude and everyone who contributed.
Question, I see different formatting in the description. I see
1. Alps Style, Costar Style stabilizers (untested)
2. Alps Style (untested)
Costar Style (untested)
Does the first formatting mean that Alps Style is confirmed and the Costar is untested. Or does it mean both are untested?
Each bullet point is its own design, all plates use Alps-style stabilizers for the wide keys, except in the case of plates like item 1, which specify whether the space bar uses Costar stabilizer cutouts instead.
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
Sorry to hear you had issues. Where did you source your stabilizer wires? The measurements for the right shift stab cutouts should be the same across all plate files and I had no issues when I used my own Alps stabs (from vintage boards).
If you are using Matias stabs or something, please let me know what the dimensions are so I can update the files..
Love the work in this post! If I'm just looking for a plate for Alpine Winter with native Cherry Stabilizer support though... anyone try just Cherry style plate mount stabilizers with ALPS holes, for hasu's ALPS64 PCB?
As duynguyenle mentioned, Swill's plate builder should already have full Cherry stab support. This thread is here mainly to offer support for those who want to use Alps stabilizers.
Post by: need on Tue, 20 December 2016, 03:54:30
Post by: duynguyenle on Tue, 20 December 2016, 04:09:57
For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
That is indeed very thin. I modified the file to move the stab hole upwards by about 0.5mm, which came out OK when laser cut by my local sheet metal fab
Post by: need on Tue, 20 December 2016, 06:16:30
Thanks man, does the stabiliser works perfectly?For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
That is indeed very thin. I modified the file to move the stab hole upwards by about 0.5mm, which came out OK when laser cut by my local sheet metal fab
Post by: emdude on Tue, 20 December 2016, 11:26:36
For the AT101 plate, the lower area for stabilizers are 0.1mm thin. Are you guys sure this is right? Because my local laser cutting shop says it will be broken.
It is correct. I guess it depends on the tolerance of the laser cutter used. Lasergist's laser cutter tolerance is 0.01mm (https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=10693166); the plates I got from them worked without issue.
EDIT: Just to be clear though, the stab positions are based on those on the original plates. You can move them as duynguyenle has, but at least for other plates I won't be able to say for certain that they will work.
Post by: gogusrl on Sat, 14 January 2017, 06:43:14
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Wang_725-3770
Post by: pabile on Sat, 14 January 2017, 07:11:44
Anyone has a plate layout for WANG 725-3370 ISO or ANSI ?
https://deskthority.net/wiki/Wang_725-3770
not sure with wang's spacebar size but why not go for the aek layout and block the win keys?
Post by: gogusrl on Sat, 14 January 2017, 07:15:06
Also the ISO Wang has a bigger than usual ISO enter.
(http://i.imgur.com/icaVM5J.png)
Post by: pabile on Sat, 14 January 2017, 07:27:16
It's not about blocking, it's about stab position and size.
Also the ISO Wang has a bigger than usual ISO enter.Show Image(http://i.imgur.com/icaVM5J.png)
i was thinking ANSI wang when i first read your post. anyways, aside from wang's ISO enter, i dont think there'll be a problem with stab position of modifiers if you choose any of those in OP.
are you planing to make your wang a donor? please dont.... :'(
Post by: gogusrl on Sat, 14 January 2017, 07:41:31
I got 2 alps64 pcbs and ISO / ANSI variants of AEK / SGI and WANGs.
I have a NIB AZERTY AEK2 that I kinda wanna use for switches and a NIB WANG ANSI that I'm thinking of using for caps. The others are in various states.
Really can't decide what to do.
Post by: pabile on Sat, 14 January 2017, 08:22:20
I know, I know. I can't decide what to do.i would make the aek as donor if i where you. it's more comon compared to wangs... we dont have them here. aek will give you caps and switches
I got 2 alps64 pcbs and ISO / ANSI variants of AEK / SGI and WANGs.
I have a NIB AZERTY AEK2 that I kinda wanna use for switches and a NIB WANG ANSI that I'm thinking of using for caps. The others are in various states.
Really can't decide what to do.
Post by: AKmalamute on Sat, 14 January 2017, 18:21:02
When I was doing GBs for ss-ergodox cases, I had this cut in '6061' (I think he used 5052 but :rolleyes: whatever.) and have partially assembled it (enabler-PCBs). To wit, it's populated with switches, and has been tested with keycaps to make sure it works out okay but I've never finished wiring it :eek: :-X
It might not be what anyone here is looking for, but I was appreciative, and I think it's slightly different than other plates already in this thread.
[attachimg=1]
Post by: emdude on Sun, 15 January 2017, 18:57:49
JDcarpe drew this up for me after I talked to him about starting the project. Its one of the GH60 layouts (the one I wanted) and still has the cherry-style stabholes. If you buy those particular keys (or all of them, whatever) from Signature Plastics, you're good; They have both alps & cherry stab-grabbers.
When I was doing GBs for ss-ergodox cases, I had this cut in '6061' (I think he used 5052 but :rolleyes: whatever.) and have partially assembled it (enabler-PCBs). To wit, it's populated with switches, and has been tested with keycaps to make sure it works out okay but I've never finished wiring it :eek: :-X
It might not be what anyone here is looking for, but I was appreciative, and I think it's slightly different than other plates already in this thread.
(Attachment Link)
Thanks for posting this, I've included an image of the plate so people can see what it looks like:
(http://i.imgur.com/FLJgzRE.png)
I believe Swill's plate builder can handle Alps plates with Cherry stabilizers as well.
Post by: Hypersphere on Fri, 20 January 2017, 17:56:36
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
Post by: emdude on Fri, 20 January 2017, 18:36:09
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
I am unaware of anyone who produces the keycaps you are looking for, besides SP; they offer a limited selection of Alps-mount caps in DSA and DCS profiles. They do have a 6u space bar in DCS profile: http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
Post by: MandrewDavis on Fri, 20 January 2017, 19:53:13
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
I have a Chicony 5981 I am trying to sell and today someone offered to buy the switches only. It has a 6.0u spacebar and uses MX stabilizer inserts.
Post by: Hypersphere on Sat, 21 January 2017, 11:05:41
@emdude: (or anyone who would like to respond!) I like the HHKB layout, but I am concerned about finding some of the keycaps, such as the 6.0u Spacebar and short Right Shift. For most of my Alps-switch keyboards, I use blank black modifiers and spacebars from Matias and vintage doubleshot or dye-sub PBT caps for the alphanumeric keys. AFAIK, Matias does not make short Right Shift caps or 6.0u Spacebars (they have 6.25u and 7.00u Spacebars).
Considering the Hasu Alps64 PCB and the various plates that can be made, I suppose one could make a hybrid layout, such as a split Backspace with everything else "standard". I've found that HHKB mapping works almost as well with a standard layout, using RCtrl as Fn. At least this way, I would have no problem finding keycaps.
Other ideas welcome!
I am unaware of anyone who produces the keycaps you are looking for, besides SP; they offer a limited selection of Alps-mount caps in DSA and DCS profiles. They do have a 6u space bar in DCS profile: http://pimpmykeyboard.com/dcs-alps-mount-space-bar-pack-of-1/
Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.<snip> ....
Other ideas welcome!
I have a Chicony 5981 I am trying to sell and today someone offered to buy the switches only. It has a 6.0u spacebar and uses MX stabilizer inserts.
Post by: emdude on Sun, 22 January 2017, 23:39:29
Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.
I don't believe there are any plates in the OP that fulfill your requirements. I can make one though, please let me know whether you want one with a 7u or 6.25u spacebar.
Post by: Hypersphere on Mon, 23 January 2017, 09:25:22
Thanks for the offer! I might take you up on this. I will think about it and send you a PM.Thanks for the link to the SP caps and thanks for the offer to buy the Chicony spacebar. I appreciate this, but I think I will go with as many standard and readily available keycaps as possible. With this in mind, which plate would enable having a split Backspace and split Right Shift with everything else standard (bottom row with either a 6.25u or 7.00u Spacebar and the other mods chosen the fill the row)? As long as the plate and PCB would accommodate this plan, the only challenge would be getting the short Right Shift -- I have some of these from vintage boards, and although the profile would not match, it would be possible to use a blank CapsLock from Matias.
I don't believe there are any plates in the OP that fulfill your requirements. I can make one though, please let me know whether you want one with a 7u or 6.25u spacebar.
Post by: zombimuncha on Tue, 07 February 2017, 13:07:46
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Post by: MandrewDavis on Tue, 07 February 2017, 21:56:49
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Here is what I got from Swill's case building tool. Just round to the nearest tenth of a millimeter.
(http://i.imgur.com/6TYuR9j.jpg)
Post by: zombimuncha on Wed, 08 February 2017, 01:20:48
Post by: jermyg on Mon, 27 March 2017, 23:44:49
I am having trouble trying to create a plate with swill's program. My criteria for the plate is split backspace, split shift, and a bottom row of 1.5, 1.25, 6.5, 1.5, 1.25, 1.5, or the aek bottom row. Alps stabilzers because I am using the aek keycaps. I also don't need stabs on the caps lock. So if anyone is willing to help me make this plate I will be very grateful.
Here is the Raw data of the layout:
["Esc","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\","~\n`"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:1.75},"Shift","Fn"],
[{w:1.5},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:6.5},"",{a:4,w:1.5},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Ctrl"]
Post by: emdude on Tue, 28 March 2017, 00:04:19
Hey guys,
I am having trouble trying to create a plate with swill's program. My criteria for the plate is split backspace, split shift, and a bottom row of 1.5, 1.25, 6.5, 1.5, 1.25, 1.5, or the aek bottom row. Alps stabilzers because I am using the aek keycaps. I also don't need stabs on the caps lock. So if anyone is willing to help me make this plate I will be very grateful.
Here is the Raw data of the layout:
["Esc","!\n1","@\n2","#\n3","$\n4","%\n5","^\n6","&\n7","*\n8","(\n9",")\n0","_\n-","+\n=","|\n\\","~\n`"],
[{w:1.5},"Tab","Q","W","E","R","T","Y","U","I","O","P","{\n[","}\n]",{w:1.5},"Backspace"],
[{w:1.75},"Caps Lock","A","S","D","F","G","H","J","K","L",":\n;","\"\n'",{w:2.25},"Enter"],
[{w:2.25},"Shift","Z","X","C","V","B","N","M","<\n,",">\n.","?\n/",{w:1.75},"Shift","Fn"],
[{w:1.5},"Ctrl",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Alt",{a:7,w:6.5},"",{a:4,w:1.5},"Alt",{w:1.25},"Win",{w:1.5},"Ctrl"]
I recently completed a plate for another member that should meet your criteria. Will send a PM your way.
EDIT: Just realized you cannot attach files to PMs, almost as bad as DT's PM system! I should add it to the Github repo anyway so I shall do that shortly.
EDIT 2: And done! The link is here (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/Other/AEK_HHKB.dxf). It's a direct link, so just save as a .dxf like the other files! Let me know if there's anything else you need.
Post by: MandrewDavis on Tue, 23 May 2017, 00:31:28
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Hey, just stumbled upon this (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68887.msg1699414#msg1699414) from a while back!
Post by: zombimuncha on Sat, 24 June 2017, 15:39:55
Hey does anybody know the measurements for this way of supporting both Alps and MX stabs on the same plate:
http://matias.ca/60/pc/viewer/?p=5
?
Hey, just stumbled upon this (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=68887.msg1699414#msg1699414) from a while back!
Thanks for this MandrewDavis, you're a life saver! Sorry for not thanking you earlier.
Please see my plate design based on this over at DT
https://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/help-me-design-my-first-ever-custom-keyboard-t16535.html#p377218
It's not exactly 60% but I'm happy to have it included in this resource if people like it (and assuming it actually works!)
Post by: mwhy on Tue, 06 February 2018, 12:19:45
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 06 February 2018, 13:41:14
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
Post by: mwhy on Tue, 06 February 2018, 14:18:56
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 06 February 2018, 14:42:06
Hi, I found this( https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7udfl1/its_wednesday_my_dudes/ ) some days ago when it was posted and thought it has to be possible then. Sadly the poster did not respond to my message about the plate, maybe I'll have to pm him.
Did you want the ISO left shift also?
Post by: duynguyenle on Tue, 06 February 2018, 16:54:47
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.
(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
Post by: jdcarpe on Tue, 06 February 2018, 17:52:41
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Post by: mwhy on Wed, 07 February 2018, 00:39:27
Yes that would be great, because I would like to use the neo layout which uses the key next to left shift as a modifierHey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 07 February 2018, 22:05:44
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
Post by: jdcarpe on Wed, 07 February 2018, 22:13:53
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
That would be great, thank you.
Post by: duynguyenle on Wed, 21 February 2018, 18:25:47
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
That would be great, thank you.
I think this is the one
Post by: gbchk on Sun, 24 June 2018, 14:09:27
Post by: droideggs on Fri, 29 June 2018, 21:25:50
Post by: hasu on Tue, 10 July 2018, 09:18:11
New AEK(Apple Extended Keyboard) layout plate desgin files are available, which supports "flipped space bar" (https://imgur.com/a/qAFzUQB) and Dutch AEK space bar (https://imgur.com/a/gYJqo), see this post (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.msg2604512#msg2604512) for detail. The new plate is identical to old one except for those spacebar supports.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64_plate/tree/plate_aek_flip_spacebar
You can use 'alps64_plate_aek_flip_spacebar.dxf' file here to order a plate from laser cut service shop.
(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64_plate/plate_aek_flip_spacebar/alps64_plate_aek_flip_spacebar.png)
emdude,
Could you add this design in the first post if you have time?
Thanks
Post by: droideggs on Thu, 12 July 2018, 17:27:37
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
can confirm that the right shift left stab insert is too far away. wasted $40+ on the plate due to this. can someone fix this? unfortunately i currently do not know how to fix the layout.
Post by: hasu on Thu, 12 July 2018, 17:52:06
Where did you source the stabs from?I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
can confirm that the right shift left stab insert is too far away. wasted $40+ on the plate due to this. can someone fix this? unfortunately i currently do not know how to fix the layout.
If you can post pics and dimensions it would be helpful for future users or desingners.
Sent from my WAS-LX2J using Tapatalk
Post by: droideggs on Fri, 20 July 2018, 21:21:04
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
had same issue as well. in the meantime for those that want to use the tai hao design plate, don't. the right stab cutouts are too wide part from each other. i suppose the only way to fix this is to make your own stab wire which seems difficult to do.
Post by: azhdar on Tue, 14 August 2018, 14:14:30
(http://i.imgur.com/WZm8mLR.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/NCH1j3e.jpg)
(https://deskthority.net/w/images/0/08/Jvp6311_front.jpg)
Post by: ReDsNoTDeAd on Wed, 05 September 2018, 00:45:23
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 24 September 2018, 09:37:33
Post by: hasu on Mon, 24 September 2018, 18:23:35
Is the Tai-Hao plate compatible with the Alps64 PCB? I'd very much like to get into the 60% Alps business.
The pcb supports the layout, but note that some of people reported issue on right shift. They didn't give precise description enough to identify the issue so far unfortunately.
It seems to work with standard Alps stabs got from such AEK or DELL while I guess they used ones come form somehwere else.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2641207#msg2641207
Post by: joshualuo7 on Sat, 20 October 2018, 01:11:36
Post by: Luciqueii on Mon, 05 November 2018, 05:02:46
I will build a 60% ALP board after summer and I am collecting part atm... so far I got
ALP YELLOW
PCB 60% https://imgur.com/a/uKABxgf (https://imgur.com/a/uKABxgf)
Keycaps I found is for ALPS but space key got cherry stab hole with ALP switch hole in the middle, see pic... https://imgur.com/a/tCodu7R (https://imgur.com/a/tCodu7R)
The problem I am having is I want a CAD file to plate that will support normal ANSI layout of alp style.
The space key seems like to be 6.25u and it is only the spacekey who got the mx stab style while the rest got alp style of stabs.
I am really bad witch coding and 3d modeling anyone who can help me? :)
Post by: Sheva000 on Fri, 07 December 2018, 22:10:38
I had the Tai-Hao plate made and found one issue: the stab cutouts on the right shift are just a bit too far apart. I ended up having to cut my own stab wire from a spare space bar wire.
had same issue as well. in the meantime for those that want to use the tai hao design plate, don't. the right stab cutouts are too wide part from each other. i suppose the only way to fix this is to make your own stab wire which seems difficult to do.
Can someone help edit the Tai Hao plate
i think just shorten the distance of the right shift stab by 3mm, then all the problem should be solved.
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Mon, 21 January 2019, 17:24:09
Post by: ReDsNoTDeAd on Thu, 07 March 2019, 03:40:02
(https://i.gyazo.com/f10e907dcb8becc8eab25635cff484c5.png)
Here is a layout I am using. 5140 Alphas, bottom row from a Focus FK-5001, and some odds and ends from an AT101W keyset. Posted the DXF if anyone wants it.
Post by: Wojciech on Mon, 18 March 2019, 07:54:09
Post by: ramon0xff on Fri, 29 March 2019, 02:59:49
Hey guys, I have a little problem and it would be grat if you could help me out with it. So I kind of impulsively bought a set of dcs alpine winter and matias switches before putting my research in a plate and stabilizers. My question would now be if somebody knows how to make a ISO plate, that also has a HHKB layout and if there is such a thing(because I didn't find it anywhere) which stabilzers do I have to use with it? The alpine winter set is kind of strange because it has mx mounts for the stabilizers, could I just use Matias stabilizers and put mx inserts in it?
I don't think anyone has made an ISO plate for the Alps64 yet, so I don't know which stabilizers you would use. I guess we just need an ISO AEKII or AT102 plate to look at.
And yes, you can use Matias stabilizers with the MX inserts for Alpine Winter.
I did. For use with AT102W caps. Due to a variety of reasons I have not managed to complete the build, but tested the plate with switches and caps and they work fine. Swills tool will not generate correctly spaced holes for the ISO enter switch position, possibly due to non-standard stem spacing on the cap itself, so I modified the plate manually with the help of some calipers and access to the original AT102W plate for measurement.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/9Cnv9Tq.jpg)
If you don’t mind sharing those measurements, I can modify the AT101W plate and make a pull request to emdude’s Github to add it to the collection.
Sorry I'm away on vacation until after CNY holidays, will put a reminder in for when I come back
That would be great, thank you.
I think this is the one
Just used the plate for my build. Worked quite right with a Dell AT102W black except for the right shift stabilizer size, which is a bit smaller.
Post by: Rob27shred on Sat, 20 April 2019, 13:05:59
Post by: mounds on Thu, 25 April 2019, 16:28:20
The layout was similar enough to the FAE IBM 5140 so I borrowed from that design, and then compared details of the full-sized right shift on the AT101, as well as spacing on the HHKB layout for outer 1u on the bottom row.
Can you guys take a look at the dxf and give some advice? This is a rough draft, as I'm not sure of the space stabilizers at this point. I have a set mounted to an HHKB style housing and plate (https://imgur.com/a/Xfbq7EH) right now, but I can't say for certain it's the original space bar. Unfortunately I didn't take part in that beauty, just got it on r/mm for a reasonable rate :) I don't have the heart to rip a compliant shift from another kit just to satisfy the core HHKB aesthetic so... it's a compromise for the sake of the Ortek set (and the community).
I'd like to commit it to the repo if the design pans out. These Ortek caps are pretty nice, with rgb mods, and often different pad-printed sub legends (JP and RU variants pop up from time to time).
EDIT: got some more info from another user who mounted similar keycaps. These caps use a quirky double costar stabilizer system for the BAE, and costar for the space. I'm still awaiting the donor board to confirm and adjust the design. Interestingly enough, the board he used was a completely different model yet layout and design were nearly identical, meaning there are likely many design clones out there.
Post by: pmsingchicken on Sun, 28 April 2019, 18:09:38
I also want to try to make it with a 7u space bar, don't know if it works with alps64. I need to do some more research.
Post by: babyfeets on Thu, 30 May 2019, 23:17:58
AT101 plateHere's some AT101W info about the right shift location on stock plate, stock caps, and TH caps. If this doesn't clear up the mismatch I could do a mockup assembly later and see if it gets wonky on the stock plate.
https://imgur.com/L2cieWS
https://imgur.com/tQ7BmwG
https://imgur.com/wfnGnG9
Plate cutting is shelved because I either need to replace the XD60v3 or the partially stepped caps plate and I haven't decided yet. I have both caps keys from TH nice.
plate for Focus FK-2001Here's a picture of my FK-2001 stock plate, the spacebar stabs look like ReDsNoTDeAd's above. Just to confirm your work.
https://imgur.com/dBVVZf0
Mind you, my measurements are with a plastic calipers so any fractional millimeters would not be accurate.
Post by: hasu on Sat, 01 June 2019, 20:23:59
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
EDIT: This data can causes problem on stab holes of space bar. See this post. (2020-06-27)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2924430#msg2924430
And this fix is not needed for stab sourced from SGI AT101(also Dell AT101).(2020-07-04)
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2928134#msg2928134
Post by: mounds on Sun, 16 June 2019, 05:29:31
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Came back here to confirm this. Gave up on the Ortek stuff after being swindled and cut TaiHao... now have a nice brass plate that doesn't work :rip:
Post by: rockydbull on Sat, 22 February 2020, 19:28:40
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Any chance you could do an updated Tai hao plate with the right shift corrected?
Post by: hasu on Sun, 23 February 2020, 05:17:43
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Any chance you could do an updated Tai hao plate with the right shift corrected?
If you have keycap and stab and can get plate to test this I will do for you.
Can you share dimensions of your keycap and stab like this post?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2770715#msg2770715
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 23 February 2020, 07:05:55
Post by: rockydbull on Sun, 23 February 2020, 08:01:46
babyfeets, thank you for the pics.
I updated emdude's 'Dell AT101' file in the first post and fixed right shift stab cutouts to 37mm width.
Any AT101, AT101W keycap and stab is not available in hand and I can't confirm the fix myself. It would be appreciated if someone can test it.
emdude's right shift stab width is 40.5mm in AT101, AT101W and TAIHAO plates, all of them should be fixed as well probably.
Any chance you could do an updated Tai hao plate with the right shift corrected?
If you have keycap and stab and can get plate to test this I will do for you.
Can you share dimensions of your keycap and stab like this post?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2770715#msg2770715
Awesome i really appreciate that. I don't have the caps on hand but will get them on order and update with info (could be a while with the China slowdown)
Post by: rockydbull on Sun, 23 February 2020, 08:04:53
Came back to say you can make a working 60% Tai-Hao plate with swill's plate builder.
Are you using the cherry/costar combo option?
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 23 February 2020, 12:13:57
Post by: abrahamstechnology on Sun, 23 February 2020, 12:19:30
Add _s:3 to your spacebar, e.g. {a:7,w:6.25,_s:3}
Post by: rockydbull on Thu, 16 April 2020, 11:44:33
Post by: hasu on Thu, 16 April 2020, 16:26:43
And what company are you going to use?
Post by: rockydbull on Thu, 16 April 2020, 18:50:26
Which file are you referring to?
And what company are you going to use?
The aek64 standard plate dxf and sendcutsend
Post by: hasu on Thu, 16 April 2020, 18:57:03
EDIT: Ah, you mean this file on the post post?
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.dxf
Post by: hasu on Thu, 16 April 2020, 19:53:22
I'll update the file some later.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.dxf
EDIT: Updated.
Instead, you can use this newer design file. Also check 'Plate' section in the first post of Alps64 PCB thread.
The file seems to work with sendcutsend.com.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64_plate/blob/plate_aek_flip_spacebar/alps64_plate_aek_flip_spacebar.dxf
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0
Post by: rockydbull on Fri, 17 April 2020, 07:29:50
I forgot the file includes the dimension drawings and just found them again. I don't have file without the drawings now.
I'll update the file some later.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/tmk/alps64/Plate_AEK_RevA/alps64_aek_plate.dxf
EDIT: Updated.
Instead, you can use this newer design file. Also check 'Plate' section in the first post of Alps64 PCB thread.
The file seems to work with sendcutsend.com.
https://github.com/tmk/alps64_plate/blob/plate_aek_flip_spacebar/alps64_plate_aek_flip_spacebar.dxf
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=69740.0
Thanks so much for the help! I will try it out.
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Fri, 12 June 2020, 08:09:10
I'm hoping someone can confirm this: the Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock) is the layout I should choose in order to support SGI's Granite keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/SGI_Bigfoot_series#SGI_Granite_2), yes?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Fri, 12 June 2020, 12:10:08
And 1.2mm is the correct thickness for snug-fitting Alps switches?
(https://d.pr/i/XYGa2V+)
Update:
I just discovered LaserBoost (https://shop.laserboost.com/en/create), and when I upload the `.dxf` file for the AT101, it outputs 95mm, 285mm, and 4458mm for height, width, and total path, respectively. Does this seem about right to you guys?
Post by: Applet on Fri, 12 June 2020, 16:09:02
- AT101 for 7u bottom row should work with SGI Granite as far as I know.
- 1.2mm is correct.
- Size sounds correct, you can always drop them an email regarding total path.
Post by: hasu on Fri, 12 June 2020, 18:03:09
This seems to be a great resource! It's amazing what people can do when they put their minds to it 🤓
I'm hoping someone can confirm this: the Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock) is the layout I should choose in order to support SGI's Granite keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/SGI_Bigfoot_series#SGI_Granite_2), yes?
As fa as I know people have reported that the design file in the first post has problem on right shift key stab.
You will have to skim this thread and check yourself before placing order.
This is file with change on the key by me but it is not confirmed yet.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Thu, 25 June 2020, 10:17:05
(https://d.pr/i/ivqFXp+)
Has anyone built a similar board? If so, how are the stabilizer clips for the spacebar?
(I don’t think LaserBoost messed up; there appears to be no metal along the bottom edge in the SVGs either.)
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Thu, 25 June 2020, 10:19:06
This seems to be a great resource! It's amazing what people can do when they put their minds to it
I'm hoping someone can confirm this: the Dell AT101 (7u Space Bar, Stepped Caps Lock) is the layout I should choose in order to support SGI's Granite keyboard (https://deskthority.net/wiki/SGI_Bigfoot_series#SGI_Granite_2), yes?
As fa as I know people have reported that the design file in the first post has problem on right shift key stab.
You will have to skim this thread and check yourself before placing order.
This is file with change on the key by me but it is not confirmed yet.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Oh man. I just saw this reply. I assume no one updated the first post because it hasn’t been tested yet? Bummer. I hope I didn’t waste $80.
Update: Looks like this is only an issue for the Tai-Hao (6.25u Space Bar, Unstepped Caps Lock) version?
Post by: hasu on Sat, 27 June 2020, 07:45:46
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sat, 27 June 2020, 13:02:01
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
I think the data file in that message you linked is the same file as the AT101 in the first post, because you said you were going to update the first post right?
And I can confirm the RShift stabilizers fit well enough. I only had an AEK mods RShift to test (even though the plate was made for the SGI Granite keycap set):
(https://d.pr/i/uirVZT+)
(https://d.pr/i/crKwyV+)
(https://d.pr/i/poLJBR+)
But yeah, that ~0.11mm that’s supposed to be on the bottom is super janky. Not sure if that’s a LaserBoost mess up or not? I’ll be honest: I’m a little disappointed with their product in general. I know it’s just 1.2mm aluminum, but it’s super bendy, and there’s not an even margin of metal on the top of the plate. The cutouts for the stabilizer clips are not clean, and obviously it’s sad they couldn’t do the ~0.11mm bottom section. It would be interesting to know whether anyone has successful contracted a manufacturer to make a plate with that little metal on the bottom. I also wonder if I should have done 1.3mm for thickness rather than 1.2mm? The switches easily come out when I pull off a keycap. I think the Lunar’s integrated plate is maybe 1.4mm? Those switches are hard to get out. Not sure if that’s the issue. None of my switches I tested and broken tabs or anything. Overall, pretty disappointed. Maybe I can get a refund from LaserBoost and just try with LaserGist instead? I’ll report back.
Update: LaserBoost replied and will refund me (or, with some GH community help, maybe we can figure out the bottom portion)? Would just adding like 1mm to the bottom of the plate (to close those stab clip cutouts prevent them plate from fitting in the “standard” 60% Pok3r-style case? Because even 0.11mm is super crazy thin to begin with. Maybe this was necessary? Not sure. Feedback welcome!
Post by: hasu on Sat, 27 June 2020, 22:09:19
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
I think the data file in that message you linked is the same file as the AT101 in the first post, because you said you were going to update the first post right?
No, I meant changed the Right Shift stab cutouts of original file and attached the fixed file in my post. My Engrish could confuse you there probably. And who can update the first post and github repo is only OP(emdude), and those were not updated since 2017. You will have to skim all posts in this thread to get correct info unfortunately at the time.
So, I'm assuming that you used this file to order you plate.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101.dxf
Quote
And I can confirm the RShift stabilizers fit well enough. I only had an AEK mods RShift to test (even though the plate was made for the SGI Granite keycap set):Show Image(https://d.pr/i/uirVZT+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/crKwyV+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/poLJBR+)
I though you were going to use SGI keycaps on the plate.
Yes, AEK right shift stab is wide enough to fit the cutouts. But I thought some people report problem with stab from Dell AT101, AT101W or something. I guess SGI stabs are equivalent or similar to Dell AT101. If you have a plan to get SGI keycaps later report back when they are available.
What exect model number did you get that keycap and stabilizer from?
That keycap ledgend and stab wire doesn't look usual one, your is German M0115D or other Euro model? https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Extended_Keyboard#M0115D_-_German_Model
Stab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.
(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sat, 27 June 2020, 22:28:26
toniwonkanobi,
It's a shame.
That thin part is just 0.1171mm, it doesn't seems to be enough margin and safe in all situations. I can't remember this was reported by others before. I'll be able to fix it when I get time.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2231722#msg2231722
Did you use this data file for the order, or one in the first post? Right shift stabilizers works?
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2771385#msg2771385
Let us know if you find any other problem.
OP is not active here and on github anymore, we will need new thread(or new github repo/wiki?) to maintain and share infos easily with the community and new comers.
I think the data file in that message you linked is the same file as the AT101 in the first post, because you said you were going to update the first post right?
No, I meant changed the Right Shift stab cutouts of original file and attached the fixed file in my post. My Engrish could confuse you there probably. And who can update the first post and github repo is only OP(emdude), and those were not updated since 2017. You will have to skim all posts in this thread to get correct info unfortunately at the time.
So, I'm assuming that you used this file to order you plate.
https://raw.githubusercontent.com/emdude/Alps-60-Keyboard-Plates/master/AT101.dxf
Oh. Got it. Yes, I used the file in the first post as you noted.
Quote
And I can confirm the RShift stabilizers fit well enough. I only had an AEK mods RShift to test (even though the plate was made for the SGI Granite keycap set):Show Image(https://d.pr/i/uirVZT+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/crKwyV+)Show Image(https://d.pr/i/poLJBR+)
I though you were going to use SGI keycaps on the plate.
Yes, AEK right shift stab is wide enough to fit the cutouts. But I thought some people report problem with stab from Dell AT101, AT101W or something. I guess SGI stabs are equivalent or similar to Dell AT101. If you have a plan to get SGI keycaps later report back when they are available.
What exect model number did you get that keycap and stabilizer from?
That keycap ledgend and stab wire doesn't look usual one, your is German M0115D or other Euro model? https://deskthority.net/wiki/Apple_Extended_Keyboard#M0115D_-_German_Model
Stab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
So the RShift I had on hand was from a French-Canadian AEK (M0115), but I think it’s the same size as the RShift on the SGI Granite? Is that not the case?
Also, did I read it right that you think you’ll be able to upload an AT101 version with the correct RShift stabilizer cutouts, and you can edit the dxf to have more metal on the bottom, so that the laser won’t cut off those space bar stabilizer clip areas (to prevent what happened with LaserBoost on their first try)?
Post by: hasu on Sun, 28 June 2020, 05:31:07
Quote
So the RShift I had on hand was from a French-Canadian AEK (M0115), but I think it’s the same size as the RShift on the SGI Granite? Is that not the case?
I don't know but it doesn't surprise me if they have diffrent stab wire width.
Quote
Also, did I read it right that you think you’ll be able to upload an AT101 version with the correct RShift stabilizer cutouts, and you can edit the dxf to have more metal on the bottom, so that the laser won’t cut off those space bar stabilizer clip areas (to prevent what happened with LaserBoost on their first try)?
Yes, if you or someone won't do that, I'll do it and post here some later when I get time.
[EDIT]
What keycaps are you going to use with this plate actually?
I think AEK space bar, capslock and modifiers excepting shift wont' fit.
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sun, 28 June 2020, 08:18:09
Quote
Yes, if you or someone won't do that, I'll do it and post here some later when I get time.
Yes, I would very much appreciate your help! I can’t move forward with this build unless I have a plate which works. Obviously not your fault, nor your responsibility, I know :)
I am frustrated that the OP lost interest in keeping the thread updated :/
Let me know when you have finished editing the file ;)
Quote
[EDIT]
What keycaps are you going to use with this plate actually?
I think AEK space bar, capslock and modifiers excepting shift wont' fit.
Apologies for any confusion. I am going to use the SGI Granite keycap set with this plate. The caps should arrive tomorrow, and at that point, I can confirm whether the RShift stab clip cutouts are in the correct location.
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sun, 28 June 2020, 22:02:27
Quote
Stab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Post by: hasu on Sun, 28 June 2020, 22:43:26
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sun, 28 June 2020, 23:18:29
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
You know, I actually don't have a set of regular ("US") ANSI AEK/AEKII keycaps here to compare with the icon mods version (whose RShift I included in my photos above). But I can't imagine it being different?
Anyways, I played around a bit with Swill's plate builder, but without some AutoCAD program (for Mac OS X), it seems too tedious to try and modify the basic 60% to match up with the AT101 version in the OP. My only edit would be to move those space bar stabilizers up ~0.2mm, so that the total thickness of metal on the south/bottom end would be more than the measly ~0.11mm that it currently is.
Post by: hasu on Mon, 29 June 2020, 00:00:29
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
You know, I actually don't have a set of regular ("US") ANSI AEK/AEKII keycaps here to compare with the icon mods version (whose RShift I included in my photos above). But I can't imagine it being different?
It is obvious that the two stab wires are diffrent, so I guess their keycaps can have diffrence somehow even if they are compatible each other.
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Mon, 29 June 2020, 07:49:14
QuoteStab wire from US model at least doesn't work that way like pic below. Dimensions of the stab wire must be different. That is interesting.Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/pXiMIU1.jpg)
And at least in this picture you included in this message, you should be able to get the stabilizer to work:
1. Try rotating the stabilizer wire clips 180°, so that the end which holds the stabilizer wire is toward the north/top side of the plate
2. Try clipping to the stabilizer clips the "closed" end of the stabilizer wire, instead of the "open" ends as was the case for your picture
If you do both of these things, I think you'll find that the stabilizer wire clears the switch and everything will be as it should.
Yes, my stab wire works in normal way(I believe) without problem.
I just wanted to say with my pic that US AEK stabilizer wire doesn't work that way as your stab does.
You posted pics which show the French-Canadian M0115 stab is used in "reverse"(from my point of view). It was surprised me somewhat because I never seen Alps stab wire is used that way so far.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=82916.msg2925272#msg2925272
The stabilizers were installed "reverse" way originally in the French-Canadian M0115?
You know, I actually don't have a set of regular ("US") ANSI AEK/AEKII keycaps here to compare with the icon mods version (whose RShift I included in my photos above). But I can't imagine it being different?
It is obvious that the two stab wires are diffrent, so I guess their keycaps can have diffrence somehow even if they are compatible each other.
FWIW, in that series of three pictures of the "icon mods" AEK RShift that I shared a couple days ago, I now realize I probably didn't need to install the stabilizer wire upside down, nor did I need to install the stabilizer wire clips upside down.
(https://d.pr/i/5Gp3Zc+)
(https://d.pr/i/NJG3Ss+)
Again, once I get the SGI Granite keycap set in (hopefully today), I can take some pictures to definitively figure out if the AT101 in the OP is sufficient, or if your edited one is a better fit, and then maybe you can make a new AT101 file, with just a *tad* bit more metal on the bottom space bar stabilizer clip areas :)
Post by: hasu on Mon, 29 June 2020, 20:11:30
Again, once I get the SGI Granite keycap set in (hopefully today), I can take some pictures to definitively figure out if the AT101 in the OP is sufficient, or if your edited one is a better fit, and then maybe you can make a new AT101 file, with just a *tad* bit more metal on the bottom space bar stabilizer clip areas :)
I'd confirm that your "SGI Granite keycap set" means genuine ones from real SGI keyboard.
Modified or cloned keycaps/stabilizers are not preferable when testing the AT101 plate dimension.
Are you going to get whole of the SGI keyboard?
And can you share dimensions of clip cutouts of Right Shift like pic below?
https://imgur.com/L2cieWS
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Mon, 29 June 2020, 20:25:36
Again, once I get the SGI Granite keycap set in (hopefully today), I can take some pictures to definitively figure out if the AT101 in the OP is sufficient, or if your edited one is a better fit, and then maybe you can make a new AT101 file, with just a *tad* bit more metal on the bottom space bar stabilizer clip areas :)
I can report back as soon as I get them. Seller shipped them via NZ Post. No tracking. Sigh.
Quote
I'd confirm that your "SGI Granite keycap set" means genuine ones from real SGI keyboard.
Modified or cloned keycaps/stabilizers are not preferable when testing the AT101 plate dimension.
Are you going to get whole of the SGI keyboard?
And can you share dimensions of clip cutouts of Right Shift like pic below?
https://imgur.com/L2cieWS
Yeah, I have no reason to believe what I bought from a guy on Deskthority isn't authentic, but I don't have them in front of me yet. Sigh. I can try to measure and get back to everyone here once I have the caps/stabs in hand.
Also, I found that the LaserBoost custom plate I ordered had just a tad bit of wiggle room in the switch cutouts (top-to-bottom direction). The switches easily pop out of the board when attempting to pull a keycap off of a switch. It was a big difference in switch stability compared my Lunar and AEK64, which are obviously integrated plates, but the clip-in portion of those plates is still just 1.2mm. I'm wondering if that vertical dimension of the switch cutouts should be increased by ~0.05mm or so? Would 0.1mm be too much of an increase?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Wed, 01 July 2020, 07:48:39
Everything looks good to me, though:
(https://d.pr/i/lu90pn+) (https://geekhack.org/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=45456.0;attach=246047)
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Fri, 03 July 2020, 22:40:27
I can confirm that the AT101 plate file handles the SGI "Granite" RShift without issue:
(https://d.pr/i/uscUhR+)
(https://d.pr/i/j6ntzc+)
(https://d.pr/i/HT04u8+)
(https://d.pr/v/YirQky+)
The only other issue (besides the aforementioned thinness of the plate near spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts) is that the switches are quite loose in the plate. Anyone else encounter this issue?
Post by: hasu on Sat, 04 July 2020, 08:50:51
So Right Shift stab cutouts on "Dell AT101" plate work with stab wire from Dell and SGI 101. Good to know.
Please post your result when you get new plate from next iteration!
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sat, 04 July 2020, 08:53:57
Thanks for the confrimation on Right shift stab.
So Right Shift stab cutouts on "Dell AT101" plate work with stab wire from Dell and SGI 101. Good to know.
Please post your result when you get new plate from next iteration!
Thanks for the well-wishes man :)
What do you think about switch looseness? Any ideas on how to rectify? The most play seems to be in a vertical dimension (left/ride side-to-side play is almost non-existent). Could the vertical dimension be reduced by ~0.1mm without messing up the entire layout? (Or should I just be happy enough and rely on the switches being soldered to the PCB underneath for stability?)
Post by: hasu on Sat, 04 July 2020, 10:07:08
I think people tend to go with stainless steel for plate, while your plate matrial is aluminum. This may cause torelance, perhaps?
What did LaserBoost say for explanation when you get refund from them?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sat, 04 July 2020, 10:10:03
I guess manufacturing of you plate just went wrong or with bad tolerance for some reason.
I think people tend to go with stainless steel for plate, while your plate matrial is aluminum. This may cause torelance, perhaps?
What did LaserBoost say for explanation when you get refund from them?
Could be. They said it was a one-off mistake, more or less. They also said that their tolerances are ~0.11mm, which, in regards to their inability to produce that thin strip of aluminum along the bottom of the plate on the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts, could speak to your suggestion that the manufacturing was just bad in this case. I was wearing of going with stainless steel, as I am planning a brown Alps tray-mount build, and I thought the stainless plate would wreak havoc on my fingers for extended typing sessions. Thoughts?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Sat, 17 October 2020, 08:15:37
Post by: envyy24 on Thu, 12 November 2020, 16:16:56
Someone (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2926121#msg2926121) in the Alps Appreciation Thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.0) was nice enough to thicken up those bottom spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts in AT101.dxf file in this thread's first post (the same file which Hasu was also kind enough to say he'd edit eventually). I assume Hasu is waiting on my report regarding the RShift stabilizers (which I can do once I get those dang keycaps in hand).
Everything looks good to me, though:
Hi there, i am looking to make a plate based on the AT 101 file shared in there. I see that you have a newer and perhaps more accurate version. my plan is to make it by jr4 with jlc, just wonder if that would make any different and how are the stabs for the space bar on your plate? Are they fit nicely? A friend voiced a concern that the cut is too close to the edge. Many thanks
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Thu, 12 November 2020, 22:09:04
Someone (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2926121#msg2926121) in the Alps Appreciation Thread (https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.0) was nice enough to thicken up those bottom spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts in AT101.dxf file in this thread's first post (the same file which Hasu was also kind enough to say he'd edit eventually). I assume Hasu is waiting on my report regarding the RShift stabilizers (which I can do once I get those dang keycaps in hand).
Everything looks good to me, though:
Hi there, i am looking to make a plate based on the AT 101 file shared in there. I see that you have a newer and perhaps more accurate version. my plan is to make it by jr4 with jlc, just wonder if that would make any different and how are the stabs for the space bar on your plate? Are they fit nicely? A friend voiced a concern that the cut is too close to the edge. Many thanks
I'm not sure what jr4 and ilc are :/
But in regards to the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts. Yes: they are super close to the bottom edge of the plate. The version I had someone alter for me moved those spacebar stabilizer clip cutout locations like 0.3mm toward the top of the board, to create sufficient thickness of aluminum along the bottom edge. The stabilizer clip cutouts aren't super ultra tight, but they're tight enough around the stabilizer clips.
Post by: envyy24 on Fri, 13 November 2020, 09:03:31
I'm not sure what jr4 and ilc are :/
But in regards to the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts. Yes: they are super close to the bottom edge of the plate. The version I had someone alter for me moved those spacebar stabilizer clip cutout locations like 0.3mm toward the top of the board, to create sufficient thickness of aluminum along the bottom edge. The stabilizer clip cutouts aren't super ultra tight, but they're tight enough around the stabilizer clips.
Typo, FR4 is what i meant, basically the material for pcb. and jlcpcb is a go to company for making your pcb and fr4 plate. do you have the file for the altered version to share?
Post by: toniwonkanobi on Fri, 13 November 2020, 10:33:15
I'm not sure what jr4 and ilc are :/
But in regards to the spacebar stabilizer clip cutouts. Yes: they are super close to the bottom edge of the plate. The version I had someone alter for me moved those spacebar stabilizer clip cutout locations like 0.3mm toward the top of the board, to create sufficient thickness of aluminum along the bottom edge. The stabilizer clip cutouts aren't super ultra tight, but they're tight enough around the stabilizer clips.
Typo, FR4 is what i meant, basically the material for pcb. and jlcpcb is a go to company for making your pcb and fr4 plate. do you have the file for the altered version to share?
The file is attached in that post I hyperlinked previously: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45456.msg2926121#msg2926121
:)
Post by: envyy24 on Fri, 13 November 2020, 12:20:59
Post by: Applet on Wed, 18 November 2020, 10:11:13
[attach=1]
Is and will be available in my AEKISO60 repo: https://github.com/4pplet/AEKISO60
Post by: RobinsonW on Tue, 21 December 2021, 04:15:20
[attach=1]
I also modified the spacebar stab holes to be compatible with screw-in MX stabs as well as the clip-in ones, since this is much preferable to me and I would have thought most people, being that Tai Hao spacebars have MX mounts. I've widened them very slightly in this design from the one I got cut, as they were a pretty tight fit on acrylic and may be too tight with metal (the service I used had a 0.2mm mm cutting kerf, if that helps anyone). I didn't actually test the big clip-in ones but they should still fit.
I got this cut on 1.5mm engraving laminate by the way, which is a softened acrylic, as that was the only acrylic material I could find on a UK online service in the thickness range I was looking for, which was 1.2mm - 1.6.mm. I know this thread has mentioned 1.0-1.2mm as ideal, but I felt 1mm might be a bit loose for the switches to clip in and a bit flimsy in acrylic. When I measured the gap between the wing clips on the switches, 1.6m seemed about the max, and 1.5mm did work really nicely in terms of the switches clipping in snugly. I also didn't have any of the brittleness issues that I've read others have had with thin acrylic plates. The service was laserlab.co.uk.
The only problem I had was that the small clip-in stabiliser holders didn't fit in properly at first because the plate was too thick and they wouldn't slot in the right place, resulting in the stabs not working properly at first. I just had to shave a little bit out of the acrylic with a Stanley knife and it was fine, as you can hopefully see in the pictures.
[attach=2]
As another side note I originally ordered this (https://kprepublic.com/products/alps-60-stainless-steel-plate-mechanical-keyboard-board-support-xd60-xd64-2-25u-2u-left-shift-support-layout-types?_pos=2&_sid=08448767b&_ss=r)steel plate from KPRepublic, but I didn't look closely enough before ordering, hence doing a custom plate in the end. I'm a bit mystified as to what kind of stab solution this is designed for with the Enter key with the L-shaped hole - the slots seem to be for the bigger clip-in types you can get from Matias, but how are you supposed to keep the right-hand one in place? All I can think of is taping/gluing it to the PCB somehow but that doesn't seem ideal. Or are there other common Alps keycaps with MX mount stabs so you can use screw-in ones? I'm working with ANSI here but it looks like you'd have the same problems with an ISO enter too.
Attached an image of the finished project too since I think it looks quite nice... YMDK walnut case, Salmon Alps, Tai Hao Tomcat caps and XD60 PCB.
[attach=3]