Lol, o well. Didn't know the back of a circuit board had an insulation film on it (I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff). So the solder wouldn't stick. I'm just going to salvage the switches and keys.
found out what it was, as i was following underneath the circuit board from the power supply, i saw a crack. thus not allowing current to travel properly. i might try and bypass it with some solder. but then again it might not be even worth it.
It's easy to scrape off with an exacto or razor blade. Fixing (http://www.instructables.com/id/Solder-on-PCB-traces/) broken traces is pretty easy...
A lot easier than removing all the switches.
Wow that's cheap.
On my dad's acer, they put the power plug inside the laptop (opposed to inside the cord like normal manufacturers), and the power prong got broken, so my dad had to glue it and do all of this stupid stuff to get it to work.
I don't know why he just didn't get a good old thinkpad. Or even an asus laptop... but I guess they sell neither of those commercially. Bastards.
For power adapters catching on fire, I've had an OEM iBook one start smoking at the connector, and a knockoff ThinkPad one start smoking from the brick.
Electrical items are the one thing you really shouldn't cheap out on...
That's some pretty nice trace repair work, there.
My original developed the lovely "I'm not a real Dell product anymore" syndrome, so I needed something quick and cheap.
As we all know, shipping from Hong Kong to Canada is faster than USA to Canada (that is in fact true!) so it made sense. Ultimately I ended up with two functional chargers for $10 each. I do, like I said, refuse to leave them plugged in when I'm not in a position to respond immediately to their explosion/melting/combustion.
Finally got around to taking pictures of this keyboard.
The last one is the traces I fixed.
The owner of the keyboard just joined geekhack under the name Cranergy
I replaced the 3 switches I stole with a few simplified alps rather than the complicated alps
(those were all I had for spares, the complicated switches I used for my cst tracball mod,
ripster's lego my balls (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:8810) for pictures)Show Image(http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/494/20100722012708.jpg)Show Image(http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/4981/20100722012733.jpg)Show Image(http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3517/20100722012744.jpg)Show Image(http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/2540/20100722013249.jpg)
Nice repair indeed. Tough to do the tiny traces with solder, but at least its possible on PCB. Someone else was asking about repairing membrane trace, and for that I recommended the "Circuit Writer Pen" available at Radio Shack. Works fabulous for all kinds of stuff. Link to that and the auto rear-window defroster solution here:
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?t=10723
In 2002, the company I worked for got a rid of a bunch of these keyboards. I just wish I had kept a few of these. They felt nice to type on, but they were disgusting. I did not know anything about keyboard. I did not know I could clean them to the point where they would look great. Stupid me! To this day, I still regret not having saved some for me since they would have cost me $0.
Heh I did the same mistake. My school threw out a bunch of keyboards, and I (for some reason) never took the ALPs stuff. I only took the IBM ones.
Oh well, at least I got the best one: a model M is so much more tactile than those silly white ALPs baords.