You might be interested in doing a Sandy55/ripster "nut and bolt mod" as well as putting some string down inside the spring. Try a quick search for them and see if that seems like something you would be interested in.I've seen the "nut and bolt mod" but wasn't sure of its purpose. So long as I have an excuse to use my Dremel!
=)
This is because they secretly changed the buckling spring switch technology.
So that's yet another person who agrees with me that the M13 feels different from a "normal M".I've actually never felt a "normal M", however you're not the only person that I've heard say it feels different. I think it's a general consensus.
@the OP: what is your previous experience with buckling springs or clicky keyboards?None. I had a board with brown Cherry MX switches, but it wasn't clicky. Which is why I quickly got rid of it.
Call Unicomp for replacement springs. $25 for a complete set of new "pivot plates".How do they compare with the stock Lexmark springs? The springs aren't worn out; I just inherently don't like them.
I've actually never felt a "normal M", however you're not the only person that I've heard say it feels different. I think it's a general consensus.
None. I had a board with brown Cherry MX switches, but it wasn't clicky. Which is why I quickly got rid of it.
How do they compare with the stock Lexmark springs? The springs aren't worn out; I just inherently don't like them.
EDIT: Are there any mechanical keyboards that are notorious for having stiffer springs?
I find the Model M springs pretty stiff... as far as I know, IBM was the only company to use the buckling springs.
You could always give the Model F a whirl, I find them to be less resistant, so, it makes it easier to type faster... for me anyways.
Nut/bolt mod and then just tighten the hell out of that sucker. We are talking microtolerances here so it doesn't take much.
You could anneal each spring with a blowtorch and tossing in water. On second thought I tried that. Don't do it.
Will try. But first, my trackpoint swap!
I would advance, but I don't have a schem for the Trackpoint II, and I can't test the wires with my multimeter... I'm sure the signal is way too small.
I could do trial and error, but that's tedious.
Call Unicomp for replacement springs. $25 for a complete set of new "pivot plates".
I think that's great!
I am constantly amazed at what you guys say they will do! I think that is wonderful. I really, really need to buy something from them!
Nut/bolt mod and then just tighten the hell out of that sucker. We are talking microtolerances here so it doesn't take much.
Unicomp needs to have a Summer Garage Sale and invite all of Geekhack over.
Rofl my woffles... So how 'bout them springs?
I emailed Unicomp.
There has to be a source for appropriate springs somewhere. Maybe a 100 pack of Bic clicky pens?
Yes, Unicomp definitely provide them.
That's what we said already. Nut/bolt mod the sucker.
If you follow the detailed instructions on the bolt mod here (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6615) it's a piece of cake.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3319&stc=1&d=1248568733)
You can try spraying springs but my experience experimenting with springs is that you'll just make them mushy, not stiffer. Like I said earlier, the way to make the springs crisper is to tighten up the bolts more, perhaps even do some further shaving of the plastic shell the spring/hammers sit in.
I held the bolt in place with my thumb whilst I screwed in the screw with my other hand. Hurt my thumb, but got the job done...
Hmm... are you using the drill bit recommended in the mod post? I picked one slightly undersized so once the bolt is screwed in it doesn't rotate. Then it's a matter of flipping the assembly, putting the pieces on, and spinning on the nuts with your fingers or a 4mm socket. No finger gymnastics needed. In fact a dozen nuts/bolts is all that's really needed.