Ergo, run air conditioning 24/7 @ 20C (68F) for no colour drift :thumb:
So, the way LEDs work, The colder they're running, the brighter they are.
TV's running way out of spec. Calibrated color temp 6534k, measured today 6683k.
It's running ~ 2% brighter which is what's accounting for the Blue drift. ~ 10 Degrees difference.
Time to run Winter calibrations..Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uqAeXBu.gif)
Wait, so now you're going to need real-time dynamic calibrations based on temperature? :eek: This or check the calibration for a range of temperatures, do some fancy interpolation, and implement it into your own custom controller for your display which of course would need to have some temperature probes or sensors.
[Edit] Or build an insulated and temperature and humidity controlled room to preserve calibrations.
So, the way LEDs work, The colder they're running, the brighter they are.
TV's running way out of spec. Calibrated color temp 6534k, measured today 6683k.
It's running ~ 2% brighter which is what's accounting for the Blue drift. ~ 10 Degrees difference.
Time to run Winter calibrations..Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/uqAeXBu.gif)
Is that why my eyes are irritated now?
Dark theme is just too dark.
Now we’re onto something, modding tv’s with a phase change cooler.Wait, so now you're going to need real-time dynamic calibrations based on temperature? :o This or check the calibration for a range of temperatures, do some fancy interpolation, and implement it into your own custom controller for your display which of course would need to have some temperature probes or sensors.
[Edit] Or build an insulated and temperature and humidity controlled room to preserve calibrations.
Samsung TVs already have something like this, It varies drive current and Rgb balance to target white point as the temperature moves up and down.
It's not accurate to do dynamic though, ideally, you want active cooling + stable room temperature.
Now we’re onto something, modding tv’s with a phase change cooler.