Could we expect a sound test before the pre orders end on 1/9?
what color case is being shown in the pictures?
Will you open another round of orders? I think many people missed this entirely, considering it was near the holiday period and only open for about a week.
Is there any chance you made any videos of typing on this thing with EC switches?
Would these sliders work in a topre board?
GB is closed.
We plan to pre-lube the sliders and housings for those who ordered complete kits.
The lubricant will be Krytox GPL 205 or 106.
The boards can be pre-assembled before shipping out.
Please let me know your opinions on this if you ordered one.
I own a Micro 82, but I haven't been able to find the software for it or the Atom 68. I'd like to try the software with the Atom 68 Alu. Is there a link I'm missing on the Niz website?
Is the estimated shipping date of May 10 still possible?For the influence of COVID-19，the Con-board used on the NIZ keyboard seriously out of stock（Niz keyboard is also out of stock）， expected delay to June15.
I went with the NiZ logo. The Atom label didn't look as refined. I also would like to support NiZ and help grow the brand recognition since they're making great products, and having their name on it will help with that.
Reluctantly as we are, we can only delay the shipment of 68 aluminum cases.
There is no excuse. The objective reason is that the electroplating and anodic oxidation processes have not been able to achieve the desired results. For this reason, we have made materials for aluminum and copper plates again. The replating and oxidation have been done six times，So, we ask you to give us another 10 days and we will do the best we can
I received today (7/9/2020) in Tokyo, Japan.
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I'm a bit worried about assembling mine now. Thanks for the detailed write-up! I'll be sure to heed your warnings during assembly.
I'm a bit worried about assembling mine now. Thanks for the detailed write-up! I'll be sure to heed your warnings during assembly.
I wrote down everything about this keyboard.
Personally, I need to push hard the stabs latch by using the USB c plug so that bent in to the right direction. If it's fully fitted, the stabs are oddly well secured. Not only does it not shake, they are lubricated slightly. It's easy to put the slider back in even if you pull it out (you have to be careful about the direction).
You'll be satisfied with the appearance and typing feel. I'm very satisfied with it's appearance and feeling. But also, worring about my broken hole. :-\
I'm a bit worried about assembling mine now. Thanks for the detailed write-up! I'll be sure to heed your warnings during assembly.
I wrote down everything about this keyboard.
Personally, I need to push hard the stabs latch by using the USB c plug so that bent in to the right direction. If it's fully fitted, the stabs are oddly well secured. Not only does it not shake, they are lubricated slightly. It's easy to put the slider back in even if you pull it out (you have to be careful about the direction).
You'll be satisfied with the appearance and typing feel. I'm very satisfied with it's appearance and feeling. But also, worring about my broken hole. :-\
Thanks for tips man much appreicated. The board looks beautiful, I also got an ewhite board with a brass plate very excited to assemble it.
Lucky for you guys. I have to contact Niz. I am missing the rubber gaskets and screws for the PCB in addition to having a scratch on my plate. :(
Ok, so I just got around to building this and I'm having some issues - some big issues that need fixing, some small issues that I've already fixed.
1. Big issue - Spacebar returns slower than the other keys (Video attached below)
This is not an issue with the stabilizers. Pushing down just the slider with the keycap removed, and comparing it to other sliders, it feels heavier and more sluggish to return. Has anyone else encountered this issue in their build? Is it possibly an issue with the size of the housing opening creating friction with the slider?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sb2PmiaXkN59E8gnOCU0_m32fR5bP3Ht/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sb2PmiaXkN59E8gnOCU0_m32fR5bP3Ht/view?usp=sharing)
2. Big issue - Backspace hits the stabilizers underneath, producing loud clack (Video attached below)
I'm using GMK keycaps, so this may be an issue only that's only noticeable with Cherry profile keycaps. It's strange to me that this could have been missed though, since NIZ keycaps are Cherry profile too. Is anyone else having this issue? I think it can be fixed by clipping off the tops of the stabilizer housings, since they seem to stick up much farther than necessary (especially compared to GMK or Durock stabilizer housings). Does this seem like a reasonable solution?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/14B7cKKNQNE8xDw9bnL8-rMv3j2kaG9zu/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/14B7cKKNQNE8xDw9bnL8-rMv3j2kaG9zu/view?usp=sharing)
3. Possibly big issue - One of the screw holes in the case for the daughterboard is noticeably angled, making the daughterboard flex (Photo attached below)
I don't know how serious of an issue this amount of bending is for the daughterboard, but I assume it's not great. It looks like they messed up badly when drilling the hole and figured it didn't matter since you can't see it once it's assembled.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pYL1aK6CEJna7fiEdCDauMUwP3mDCIYB/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1pYL1aK6CEJna7fiEdCDauMUwP3mDCIYB/view?usp=sharing)
4. Small issue - Some housings not fully clicked into place, so their plastic tabs would interfere with the sliders' movement
Make sure to check the 2 plastic tabs inside each housing before putting this keyboard together. Several housings had 1 or both tabs not fully clicked into place, which would have interfered with the slider movement. To click the tabs into place, one at a time, carefully push them with your finger toward the upper surface of the plate and away from the center of the housing.
5. Small issue - Some improperly rotated slider housings
Make sure to double check all of your slider housings' orientations before putting this keyboard together. I found about 5 housings that were rotated 90 degrees off from their proper orientation. This was a problem for some of them because these particular housings were squeezed against the metal posts you use to screw the PCB to the plate, preventing their plastic tabs from clicking into place. The other 2 were improperly rotated because they were next to the two holes in the center of the alphas, and the way they were positioned prevented the protrusions in the silicone dome sheet from sitting properly between them.
(Photo from the bottom of the plate showing proper orientation of the housings after the misaligned ones were fixed is attached below. Please excuse the fingerprints on the plate.)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WiTKCzpXRxFJLGdDtTK5BThEjZKCAF5i/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WiTKCzpXRxFJLGdDtTK5BThEjZKCAF5i/view?usp=sharing)
6. Small issue, as long as NIZ fixes it - My order was missing the 2nd set of 45g domes I ordered.
1, 2 Question You can check whether it is the switch installation method problem (whether the buckle position is protruding, whether the push rod is installed in the correct position), you can check the accessories.
1, 2 Question You can check whether it is the switch installation method problem (whether the buckle position is protruding, whether the push rod is installed in the correct position), you can check the accessories.
Thanks for the quick response. I reopened everything and re-checked the tabs on the spacebar and backspace housings. They were installed properly, and so were the stabilizer wires. I also tried swapping the housings from the spacebar and left shift keys, just in case there was a defect in the spacebar housing. Neither housing had any visible defects, though.
I did a simple test of the spacebar and left shift housings (video linked below). I had the plate by itself, suspended above a table in an upright position. In this orientation, sliders for unstabilized keys would fall out from their housings because they weren't experiencing any significant friction (see 1:43 in the video below). However, sliders wouldn't fall out by themselves from the housings for stabilized keys - especially the spacebar housing. The left shift slider took a small push to fall out. Pushing the spacebar slider with the same force, it would slide and stop again about halfway down its length, only falling out after another push (see the beginning of the video and again at about 2:00).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/177VExV5DebN_wj5vC-cDMfsfJTFy5CEz/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/177VExV5DebN_wj5vC-cDMfsfJTFy5CEz/view?usp=sharing)
I believe there is an issue with the housings used for stabilized keys. I checked the openings in the plate to see if the plate was squeezing the housings and causing deformation in the housing opening, but the plate openings for the stabilized keys were the same size as the openings for the unstabilized keys - 13.90 mm front-to-back, according to my calipers.
Luckily, the spacebar seems to somehow be performing better after reassembling the keyboard. However, I still have the same issue with the backspace - it makes a loud clack sound when pressed. I checked the backspace housing tabs and stabilizer wire when I had everything disassembled, but they were all installed properly. Again, I believe the noise is caused by the excessively tall stabilizers making contact with the underside of the Cherry profile backspace keycap. Do you have an assembled Atom68 Alu that you could use to test the backspace with a Cherry profile keycap? Because it's a 2u keycap, the outer stabilizers are very close to the left/right walls of the keycap.
I asked in my previous reply, but please let me know if this problem can be solved by clipping off the top corners of the backspace stabilizer housings ("stabilizer housing" = the part of the stabilizer that clips into the plate). Would clipping off those upper stabilizer housing corners negatively affect the performance of the stabilizer? Since the kit didn't come with any extra stabilizers, I'd worried to try it, but I think it's the only solution.
I have checked your video, can you remove the switch and take a picture to show me? Refer to my picture.
I have checked your video, can you remove the switch and take a picture to show me? Refer to my picture.
I've attached the photos you requested below. Also, please let me know - would shortening the outer corners of the backspace stabilizer housings eliminate the clacking sound when pressing the backspace key? I am convinced the backspace noise problem is caused by the stabilizer housing, not the slider housing. I cannot use this keyboard until this issue is fixed.
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Does anyone else have problems with screwing the whole thing down? I don't know if it's because of the e-white coating affecting the screws but I can't close the fkin thing lol
Does anyone else have problems with screwing the whole thing down? I don't know if it's because of the e-white coating affecting the screws but I can't close the fkin thing lol
Does anyone else have problems with screwing the whole thing down? I don't know if it's because of the e-white coating affecting the screws but I can't close the fkin thing lol
Mine is a bit tight when screwing it together. I don't know if that's because of the case itself, or the plate. I noticed that my plate is slightly curved, so the force necessary to flatten it when screwing the case together could be what's causing that.
Also, did NIZ just vanish after their last reply almost a week ago? I'm still waiting on a reply to my question about the stabilizers.
Does anyone else have problems with screwing the whole thing down? I don't know if it's because of the e-white coating affecting the screws but I can't close the fkin thing lol
Have any luck getting it closed? I have an e-white case with e-white alu plate and I'm also having trouble.
Nope lol kinda gave up on that lol. It closes well enough that I'm okay with it. Do you have two leds that are constantly on? I'm preety sure it's related to the bluetooth but I don't know how to turn it off.
Nope lol kinda gave up on that lol. It closes well enough that I'm okay with it. Do you have two leds that are constantly on? I'm preety sure it's related to the bluetooth but I don't know how to turn it off.
Haven't put the case together in a bit, but from what I remember, when the board was assembled without screws, I had one led constantly on. Have no clue why it was doing that.
Anyone got a link to to the software?
You can find the manuals and software in the Google Drive, via the link in the Firmware and Upgrades section.The link to the Google Drive with the software is on this page of the NIZ website:
Anyone got a link to to the software?You can find the manuals and software in the Google Drive, via the link in the Firmware and Upgrades section.The link to the Google Drive with the software is on this page of the NIZ website:
https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order (https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order)
I haven't tried the software yet, so I don't know how well it works. Good luck.
Anyone got a link to to the software?You can find the manuals and software in the Google Drive, via the link in the Firmware and Upgrades section.The link to the Google Drive with the software is on this page of the NIZ website:
https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order (https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order)
I haven't tried the software yet, so I don't know how well it works. Good luck.
Anyone got a link to to the software?You can find the manuals and software in the Google Drive, via the link in the Firmware and Upgrades section.The link to the Google Drive with the software is on this page of the NIZ website:
https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order (https://www.nizkeyboard.com/pages/order)
I haven't tried the software yet, so I don't know how well it works. Good luck.
Yeah, I already tried that one by downloading the Atom68 folder. It's recognizing that the board is plugged in but the programming doesn't stick? Not sure if I'm doing it wrong.
Niz is running a v2 of this board. Anyone from the original GB wanna chime in?
https://www.keebtalk.com/t/ic-atom-68-ii/11815
I'd love to see a custom Topre option, but you guys scared me in the last few posts here. Didn't seem worth the money and wait.
Niz is running a v2 of this board. Anyone from the original GB wanna chime in?
https://www.keebtalk.com/t/ic-atom-68-ii/11815
I'd love to see a custom Topre option, but you guys scared me in the last few posts here. Didn't seem worth the money and wait.