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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Geke_Hackman on Tue, 24 March 2020, 23:52:14
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Long story short: custom USB cable wasn't grounded properly and now I'm getting peripheral power overload errors and smelling burnt plastic when using any usb cable.
I've been looking but can't find a specific pok3r replacement pcb. Does anyone know of a pcb that will fit a pok3r case? I'd like to use the same case and plate if possible. Assuming the switches can't be salvaged even though they are fine as well. Thanks in advance.
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I am pretty sure the Pok3r case fits the standard 60% layout. So shops like KBDfans or 1upkeyboards should have some 60% PCBs that will fit.
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Yep, any GH60 type pcb will work. Hotswap ones won't work b/c the case will interfere with the sockets. Also, stick with usb mini b/c USB-c won't fit the case.
You could even go RGB :)
https://thekey.company/collections/in-stock/products/c3-60-rgb-pcb
cheaper:
https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60-60-pcb?variant=28607000641584
even cheaper:
https://techkeys.us/products/gh60
Or look on mechmarket.
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There are cheaper 60% boards from China if u fancy..
GK64s if u want arrow keyz
https://m.tb.cn/h.VU1hJjA?sm=4524e3
Bluetooth capable, hot swap (depends on case suitability)
Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk
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I have no direct exp but to me gk64s does not fit in poker case no?
If you want arrow just get GH60 and the 2.25x shift plate, this combo supports 60 layout with arrow keys.
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I have 2 gk64 and a GH60... The case are interchangable... The arrow keys just takes up the slots got the right alt, right ctrl, right menu buttons. U need left 2u shift and right 1u shift the fit the rest of the keys.
Alternatively u can use left shift 2.25u and right 2u shift, but then u need to have one key to the right of up arrow... Depend on the keycaps u have.
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Do the poker case fits GH60? If so it shld fit..
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When in doubt return to the source - the orginal GH60 thread:
If you want to use an existing case, our goal is that this PCB will fit in any current Poker/Pure case. Including the aluminum ones made by imsto, treble318, oneproduct, and Duck.
The GK64 looks to have lots more mounting holes but the standard Poker ones are definitely there, and there is no mounting hole on the shift row in a Poker case to be affected by layout choices so all good.
Also the switches will be fine Geke_Hackman - all they do is allow 5 volts to pass through them when pressed, that's the maximum you can get out of a USB connection so whatever has happened they are still working. A dead board is a good board to practice desoldering on so get a nice solder sucker and save some landfill :)
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I have 2 gk64 and a GH60... The case are interchangable... The arrow keys just takes up the slots got the right alt, right ctrl, right menu buttons. U need left 2u shift and right 1u shift the fit the rest of the keys.
Alternatively u can use left shift 2.25u and right 2u shift, but then u need to have one key to the right of up arrow... Depend on the keycaps u have.
Sent from my Redmi K20 Pro using Tapatalk
Cool, meaning pcb with similiar layout would probably fit as well. I keep that in mind whenever I want to change into new switch in the future.
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that said, recently i started having double keystrokes on some of my keys...
1st on a second hand filco which started having issues... i wanted to desolder all of them but the seller in china i asked to order keycaps from recommended me try trying cleaning the filco with isophropyl alcohol into the switches, and leave it to dry up. that did the trick (i use syringes *(but the needle pokes on the plastic stems, so maybe u can use some old plastic syringe for medication instead )
the other time it was a DZ64 which the solder came off (bad soldering on my second board). resolding it solved that. If u feel like you are starting to have some double entries, just try the alcohol method first, inject to said key, press it a few times, and leave it to try.
on a seperate note, avoid head powered solder sucker. i bought a couple, and they both clog up with a few uses and you need to dismantle to remove the solder inside. go for a non powered solder sucker or solder wick instead.
or use some old wires lying around to use as wick.
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I think OP problem is not the key chattering though. But good tips regardless.