geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: Maledicted on Wed, 01 April 2020, 16:16:35
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Hey guys. Those of you that have gotten to know me will know that I'm usually more of a retro board guy, or I modify existing boards. I just ordered some of the new Kailh box silent pink linears and figure it is about time I had a hotswap board, and when I decided on that, I also figured it might as well be something I actually like instead of some random Chinesium board with design features that turn out to be undesirable. I am completely unaccustomed with the LEGO side of this hobby and know I would do well to heed the advice of others in this area, if anyone would be so kind as to provide it.
I would like to assemble something with the following (commercially available) parameters:
- A walnut case (I would even prefer it unfinished, if possible), from cursory looks in the past, that seems to mean that I'm probably limited to 60% keyboards
- Support for both dedicated arrow keys, and standard size caps throughout, including at least a Windows key in the usual location. I don't care about the aesthetics of with vs without space between the keys that usually flank it. All other layout considerations are just about irrelevant to me so long as they're close enough to ANSI (none of that HHKB stuff)
- MX standard hot swap sockets
- Costar stabilizer support (I may sacrifice this, if necessary)
- A plate made of the bassiest/deepest material available that adheres to the requirements above
- I would prefer a usb interface that won't fall apart if I look at it too intently, so mini USB would be ideal (micro sucks), but I'll settle for type c if I have to.
I don't care about LEDs one way or the other. I don't particularly care about about programmability either so long as I can have at least one function layer just in case I need some extra keys.
I would like this to be as cheap as possible, while still conforming to the above.
I think that about sums it up. Any suggestions?
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Gk64 comes to mind:
- Wooden case option: check (KPrepublic sells this), not walnut I think
- Dedicated arrow keys: check
- Hot swap: yeah
Im not certain about the plate, you might have to buy a brass one separately. And I dont know about costa. You can ask kprepublic directly, they have good customer service. However, you are somewhat limited in the choice of keycaps, as the right shift is 2u and the left one is 1u.
Another option comes to mind:
Build from this pcb:
https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb
- hot swap: check
- dedicated arrow keys: check
- Case: need to source from the great ali, any 60% wooden would do, just ask seller to be sure though.
- Plate and stabs: need to buy separately
- Wider choice for keycaps as 1.75U shift and 2.25u shifts are common. However, to get that right 1.75 u shift they ditch the ?/ key. Be aware.
- Price: yeah would be much more than than GK64.
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Gk64 comes to mind:
- Wooden case option: check (KPrepublic sells this), not walnut I think
- Dedicated arrow keys: check
- Hot swap: yeah
Im not certain about the plate, you might have to buy a brass one separately. And I dont know about costa. You can ask kprepublic directly, they have good customer service. However, you are somewhat limited in the choice of keycaps, as the right shift is 2u and the left one is 1u.
Another option comes to mind:
Build from this pcb:
https://kbdfans.com/collections/60/products/dz60rgb-hot-swap-custom-keyboard-pcb
- hot swap: check
- dedicated arrow keys: check
- Case: need to source from the great ali, any 60% wooden would do, just ask seller to be sure though.
- Plate and stabs: need to buy separately
- Wider choice for keycaps as 1.75U shift and 2.25u shifts are common. However, to get that right 1.75 u shift they ditch the ?/ key. Be aware.
- Price: yeah would be much more than than GK64.
You're coming to similar conclusions to where my research was pointing me. Thank you for the input. I could just solder in the hotswap sockets as well, if that broadens my horizons. I wouldn't know which options for sockets may be best though either. I would probably replace a more useless key (in my use cases) with the ?/ key. I have used AT layout boards extensively, and don't mind adjusting a little bit.
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I have no direct exp with hot swap mod. There is this famous mill max socket you can look into. Kailh sells their hot swap sockets, not sure if you can just solder it in any pcb though. In general, I think you should go for the gk64. The price is reasonable, and if you are not into the keycaps game yet then the stock would do just fine.
And as far as I know, caps makers are more and more conscious about all the weird ass layout their customers can get into (yeah looking at ya 40% people). I recently bought this pbt set and they even included a 1U shift. I have not check but im sure there is a 2u cap somewhere, so I can fit them in weird 60% or 65% layout.
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oops unwanted duplicate.
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I have no direct exp with hot swap mod. There is this famous mill max socket you can look into. Kailh sells their hot swap sockets, not sure if you can just solder it in any pcb though. In general, I think you should go for the gk64. The price is reasonable, and if you are not into the keycaps game yet then the stock would do just fine.
And as far as I know, caps makers are more and more conscious about all the weird ass layout their customers can get into (yeah looking at ya 40% people). I recently bought this pbt set and they even included a 1U shift. I have not check but im sure there is a 2u cap somewhere, so I can fit them in weird 60% or 65% layout.
I'll have to compare everything you've mentioned. Yeah, they seem to be more commonly making sets for the modern bizarre layouts. I wish I could get some new nice thick double shots with big ass enter keys and AT spacebars though. :(
I ended up ordering a DZ60 and a universal brass plate that should be compatible. I couldn't find any DZ60s offhand that had hot swap sockets and mini usb, so I just got the regular one and ordered some Kailh sockets. I guess I'll find out whether or not the formula all works together with costar stabilizers, etc. It will be a learning experience.
Thanks again for your input.