Now THERE's an argument for washing your hands.Show Image(http://www.tbfcomputing.com/ebaypicture/2009/6.30.10_ASAM_6572.JPG)
Round cover?
I could triple my post count (shudder the thought) just by correcting all of Mwindow's misinformation.
The Unicomp made M13s/Endurapros have a round plastic trackpoint stick just as shown in the pic. It's typical Unicomp engineering. Not pretty but it works.
M13 pics in my sig.
Strange part number is strange... I wonder if those Endurapros could be rubber dome...
Really? I looked at the M13 pics in your SIG but couldn't clearly see it. So Unicomp sells the normal square bottom caps pictured below (from the Unicomp web site) and these fit on a round post? Really Really?Show Image(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/pckeyboards_2101_1118117)
If I'm seeing that picture right, it's looking like there's a round hole inside the square one so it'll work on a round post.
The trackpoint's also not too accurate without its rubber cover.
Thanks, I just put in an offer for a couple of the trackpoint-button-having ones.
Did you get them? If so have any idea when they'll arrive?
I bought a few Endura Pros from these seller a couple months ago. 1 worked fine for a couple weeks and then the trackpoint started to drift on it's own. Another keyboard was defective from the start (keys not working). 2 other keyboards tested fine when I received them, but a few weeks ago I tried using them and they did not work at all. All keyboards were dirty. I really don't know what to make of it as I have a lot of keyboards and none gave me half as much trouble as those Enduros. On the other hand, for the price they might be worth the risk.
Drift is an inherent problem with trackpoints.
Did he make them good?
I have IBM M13 that does not drift. Also Enuduro Pro did not drift when I received it. The drift is highly annoying, I would not use a keyboard that had a pointer drift when it's not being touched.
The drift is when it keeps going (usually in the opposite direction) after you let go of it.
'Design flaw' if anything, very common and expected. It auto corrects.
(thread tl;dr, hoping this is the same type of drift)
My trackpointers drift sometimes, particularly the older ones, particularly when I'm really using them in great anger, :wink:. I usually just let it go till it stops drifting, seems to "reset" or something, then I go back to what I'm doing and it's -usually- OK.
That's more like it. I like funny trolls better.
Yeah sounds like what I described. If Wikipedia is to be believed, the design incorporates a firmware based thing that detects when it's drifting (constant speed with no changes in pressure I suspect) and stops it. Takes about a full second to stop I believe.
I read that on Wikipedia as well. Maybe so, but at least in my case, I have to let it go for that to occur, as long as I keep moving it, it still wants to drift.
That's how it's designed to work. It can't detect drifting as long as you're changing the amount of force on it (otherwise the drifting motion could be you intentionally moving it). Letting go of it lets the controller recognize the force is not changing so the movement is drift.
I did. They accepted an offer of $16.00 per. I really hope they're not rubber domed. Should show up this week or early next.
Oh, and yes, they are buckling spring models... they seem to have been used in some industrial setting.. custom keycaps too.. things like "ENDI" on rightbracket and "SOE" on backslash.
Not familiar with those terms but did a quick google and found them listed in this "Movement Controllers Handbook" (http://www.movcon.org.uk/History/Documents/DID/D-MCHS%200398_page5.htm). There are likely some better references but this was the first reasonable looking one I found in English.
That makes sense, thanks. It appears to be some sort of airline / passenger service keyboard.
These are the first EnduraPros that I've ever had. They're not really comparable externally to any IBM or Lexmark Model M I own.
They use 2-piece keycaps (the metallic grey type) for every letter except the letters surrounding the trackpoint (because those keys have an indent where the trackpoint shaft goes) and the Windows and Alt keys, which are all one-piece. The tops of the 2-piece keycaps are uniformly yellowed; they're not really salvageable except as a dye-job. The 1-piece keytops are not yellowed very much if at all. But in general, this particular keyboard is from 2006 and I have keycaps from 1986 that look a lot better.
The case is a lot less sturdy (I ruined one putting it through the dishwasher even though I didn't let it go into the dry cycle). It warped a bit. I managed to chip off a bit next to the mouse buttons while putting it back together too. Pretty bad.
On the other hand, this thing is great to type on. Really excellent. Maybe better than any other Model M I own (likely due to newness).
I wish, though that Unicomp didn't need to give in to the pressure of the market to offer this cheaper variant, because, it's.. well.. kinda cheap. I think I might keep one of these and try to resell two of them on on EBay. Or give them to friends. Or something.
Smoker.Show Image(http://www.nyu.edu/dental/nexus/images/spring2007/smokefingers.jpg)
I sent them an email about keycaps earlier today, I'll report back what I hear. ;-)
These got here. They're in pretty dirty shape, but I'm typing this from one of them and it appears to work fine. Not sure what they mean by "tracking problem"; the trackpoint appears to work fine on this one.
I also however bought a couple Mighty Mouse keyboards from the same seller. Those are in worse shape (spacebar doesn't work at all on one). But TBH I figured I'd be lucky if they keyboards worked, and really just bought those for the SDL cable anyway (I think they were $10 apiece or so).
I bought one Mighty Mouse from him and just got it.
Damn this thing came filthy, kinda disgusting really. Makes me wonder what environment they came out of and what the lungs of the users look like.
.
I've sliced open Unicomp grey keys before. Solid grey plastic with pretty metallic flakes.
Yeah. I bought two of those Mighty Mouse keyboards from him; neither worked. I've asked him to either send me ones that do or to provide a refund. I'm also not really into cleaning those things, I hope he goes for the refund.
Chuck from Unicomp said (re: EnduraPro keycaps / trackpoint nubs):
Hello Chris
The key buttons are $20.00 per set and the pointing stick caps (nubs) are $4.95 for set of 3. Sets for the 1391401 and 42H1292 are also $20.00. You can order via email or phone. I will need your complete ship to address and credit card information.
My phone number is 1-800-777-4886
Depends on the key. Usually the nub keys have the weird, yet consistent yellowing. On my Endurapro, they were the only two-part keys, leading me to believe that they are beige ones.
Do you think shipping is on top of those prices from Unicomp or included? Guess I'd assume extra on top if I don't know different.
I'm sure its plus shipping. Nice quick cleanup job on the MightyMouse! I know they're nasty.Pretty much done with Wet Ones Big Ones wipes and some Daybright Lysol spray clone.
Pretty much done with Wet Ones Big Ones wipes and some Daybright Lysol spray clone.
These are the large wipes I like for clean-ups like this. Ended up with like 20+ wipes looking thoroughly dirty, approaching black or at least dark gray.
Lysol type sprays might not be good for keys, not sure, but I wasn't in a mood to care, :biggrin:. I tried not to get it inside the housings. Like with the keyboard I held it upside down, sprayed it evenly then wiped it off so would not pool up inside. Although in retrospect not sure that would have been a bad thing given how filthy it probably is in there. But out of sight, out of mind right, and I just don't want a liquid short in there or something getting dissolved by sitting in a pool of solvent.
I first cleaned off most of the layer of crud, then sprayed it and did a final wipe down. Well, final-ish, as every time I go back and run the tip of a wipe between the keys or in that little slot that goes around the sides and bottom, it comes up with a black smudge still. So I didn't get it all but the surfaces I touch should be safe, :wink:.
I hate to sound paranoid but just don't know what might be on these things, just that it was a thick layer of whatever it was! :eek: Looks much better and I feel much better toying with it now.
Do it the right way and pull the keys. I know it takes a while, but that's the only way to do it with keyboards as dirty as this :)
Just don't bother cleaning it. Those keyboards aren't too bad.
Do it the right way and pull the keys. I know it takes a while, but that's the only way to do it with keyboards as dirty as this :)I took a run at it, as fast as I could.
I asked for an exchange or refund from the same seller for the items I got which did not work, but he hasn't yet responded. Which isn't a good sign, as its been 5 days.
How many non-working items did you get? My luck has been better as at least in my tests so far I'm 2 for 2 everything working. Guess I should take some time tonight and do a more exhaustive test on both before it's too late to complain though. If you don't mind me asking, what are the symptoms on yours so I can check mine. Thanks.
I received 3 items that did not work: 2 Mighty Mouse keyboards (one the spacebar doesn't work, the other has random keys which do not work), and 1 EnduraPro that is DOA (bad controller probably); no keys work on that.
Given my experience with the Mighty Mouse I got, wouldn't be surprised if it turned out to be crap under the keys physically interfering with the operation. As I have said multiple times, mine was nasty and I found plenty of crap under the keys large enough to interfere with proper functionality. Oh and did I mention it was nasty? Cause I meant to say it was nasty. It was nasty. :rant:
Maybe (probably), but the offer was for a keyboard in working condition, and I really don't much want to clean these. ;-)I don't blame you. If I had it to do over again after the experience I had, I wouldn't. It was horribly disgusting. There were a couple of keys that worked but only if you gave them a good whack. So "work" is a relative thing, they worked but not well enough to actually type on. And once I got it reasonably clean they all work but not a great keyboard by any stretch. You can type on it, sort of, but if you're used to a nice keyboard, it's a frustrating struggle to use. It was a bad buy all around.
That keyboard doesn't look bad at all.So far I'm pleased with this one, unlike the Mighty Mouse which was an all around disappointment. Only issue so far is the mouse speed but thinking if it works, it works, the speed must be a driver issue. Since originally posting this I took the keyboard apart and it's become more apparent that there is probably some physical damage to the pointing sticks. I'll have to look at it more closely, wonder if Unicomp sells replacement pointing sticks?
They use 2-piece keycaps (the metallic grey type) for every letter except the letters surrounding the trackpoint (because those keys have an indent where the trackpoint shaft goes) and the Windows and Alt keys, which are all one-piece. The tops of the 2-piece keycaps are uniformly yellowed; they're not really salvageable except as a dye-job. The 1-piece keytops are not yellowed very much if at all. But in general, this particular keyboard is from 2006 and I have keycaps from 1986 that look a lot better.
On the other hand, this thing is great to type on. Really excellent. Maybe better than any other Model M I own (likely due to newness).
I wish, though that Unicomp didn't need to give in to the pressure of the market to offer this cheaper variant, because, it's.. well.. kinda cheap. I think I might keep one of these and try to resell two of them on on EBay. Or give them to friends. Or something.
Definitely a sharp 'board.
Though, is it just me or are F-G-H-J slightly yellowed? It's hard to tell, and if they are it's only by a very small amount, but something looks different about those keys (same for a couple of the larger keys too)
(point being, I'm seeing it on more than just F and J)
It might break some ethical code but waiting a good 20 minutes for those to completely load (not an exaggeration in the slightest way) was frustrating enough to justify attaching them to this post for fast loading for everyone else.
{redundant pic links removed}
Interesting that those 4 keys seem to be affected. Those 4 do come out of a different mold than the rest of the single-size keys (F and J due to the nubs, G and H due to the trackpoint cut outs). B kind of has it too, but it doesn't look as bad (and it too is from a special mold).