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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: tp4tissue on Tue, 01 September 2020, 06:25:26
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Wanted to change a key on my Dox layer, Flashed, working gud', Then realized forgot to add the Flash-OK button. So now, either Tp4 drills a hole in the top OR unbutton it ruining all the height/tenting configurations.
It might be a red day in the Stock Market, this is a sign.. Tp4 of all people 4got firmware button.
Be-careful on the highway people.
/superstitious
(https://i.imgur.com/hVaXskJ.gif)
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to be honest in that situation i would drill the hole so it would not happen again, function > form to me, but if you value the aesthetic of not having holes in your keyboard case above easy access to the reset button you can go the long way around.
either way good luck with it.
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Depending on the controller, unplugging and plugging it in triggers program mode for a short time.
Might be worth a shot.
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Has anyone made a split board like the EGDX with an extra top F-Row yet ?
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i thought the consensus that the less key the more ergonomic, i do not agree but it is the main reason i did not even start to try and find an ergo as no F-row is so far a deal breaker to me as is the lack of iso enter key. still trying to build a 60% though just to try out cutting my key usage in half :)
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i thought the consensus that the less key the more ergonomic, i do not agree but it is the main reason i did not even start to try and find an ergo as no F-row is so far a deal breaker to me as is the lack of iso enter key. still trying to build a 60% though just to try out cutting my key usage in half :)
Went down the micro route myself, it's svelte LOOKING, but ultimately hugely inconvenient. This was before going Split, so After split, Tp4 just wants a bigger split board.
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if you have a 3d printer there are models to allow you to "easily" make keyboard plates with one, with the plates then it is a story of handwiring the whole thing to a promicro/teensy and the angle can be set with threaded rods, there have been a few projects using that approach on this forum.
if you are ready for going the diy route, just take good quality wires, the cheap wire-wound wire from e-bay is no good, breaks by looking that it.
and Matias actually did make a split keyboard(https://matias.ca/ergopro/pc/) but not nearly as adjustable as the ergodox, and well it is matias switches so may not be the best quality around from what i have read.
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if you have a 3d printer there are models to allow you to "easily" make keyboard plates with one, with the plates then it is a story of handwiring the whole thing to a promicro/teensy and the angle can be set with threaded rods, there have been a few projects using that approach on this forum.
if you are ready for going the diy route, just take good quality wires, the cheap wire-wound wire from e-bay is no good, breaks by looking that it.
and Matias actually did make a split keyboard(https://matias.ca/ergopro/pc/) but not nearly as adjustable as the ergodox, and well it is matias switches so may not be the best quality around from what i have read.
Yea was looking at that back in the day, the problem is when you're tented as High as Tp4, the outer edge has to be close to the bottom, otherwise it pushes the central keys too high vertically So an ergodox style layout with 1 or 2 extra top rows is ideal for Tp
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That's all pretty easily fixed with a bit of cad software.
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That's all pretty easily fixed with a bit of cad software.
for mechanically literate peoples yeah, but for someone like me for example it is pretty hard as i have to learn everything from scratch. 1st project did not go too well... with some extraneous plastic feet and the printer extruding twice on the same layer... all i am saying is that there is a learning curve and i do understand peoples not willing to go there.
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For quick tweaks to existing things, try Tinkercad. No need to re-invent the wheel to add a bit of text or extra height.
I still struggle with "real" CAD, but mostly because just being lazy and slapping things into Tinkercad.
Twice on the same layer sounds like a printer or (more likely) a slicer issue, not a cad problem.
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yeah it was cura doing its thing, i tried to overlap the models in cura and it printed them all fully so twice on the overlaps, and coming from a programing background i found OpenSCAD to be the easiest to wrap my head around but still not good at it :)