It looks like you destroyed the switch copper pads...
And also it looks like you have solder that bridges 2 pins of the led, before plugging back the PCB it would be good to ensure that it is not the case.
Did you cleaned the area with isopropil alcool ?
This may give us a better view of what the problem really is.
yeah that looks pretty roasted. it's still fixable, though it will be more difficult now.
the copper pads that the two pins are gone now, so you would need to either carefully scrape off the black shielding layer of the copper traces that the copper pads used to be connected to, and solder the switch pins to those as well. alternatively, you could determine where the traces connect to, and solder a jump wire to those points instead. unfortunately, this PCB design uses just the two switch pins to hold the switch in place, so you may have to find another way of securing the switch in place
additionally, as mentioned, it looks like you've resoldered two LED pins together above the switch hole, which should be separated
it looks like you may have also melted the A key's LED plastic as well, so that might not work now
Here is a tentative wiring below (any insulated wire should work).
Not sure yet about the green (lacking visibility).
The red I'm sure, need to solder the switch pin to the diode.
(https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/10/13/201013040121623414.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/201013040121623414.jpg.html)
Here is a tentative wiring below (any insulated wire should work).if you had not posted that i would have, i pretty sure both are right
Not sure yet about the green (lacking visibility).
The red I'm sure, need to solder the switch pin to the diode.
(https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/10/13/201013040121623414.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/201013040121623414.jpg.html)
Ah, so any wire should work. I have some leftover wire from my school project, I guess I can use that then.both red and green are connections to make, using different colors is just to make is more readable
Looking at the image, the green means I need to connect both solder hole right? With the wire.
As for the red, I still don't really understand what you're trying to say.
Thanks for the feedback because I don't really have someone to ask about this kind of thing.
Here is a tentative wiring below (any insulated wire should work).if you had not posted that i would have, i pretty sure both are right
Not sure yet about the green (lacking visibility).
The red I'm sure, need to solder the switch pin to the diode.
(https://nsa40.casimages.com/img/2020/10/13/201013040121623414.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/201013040121623414.jpg.html)Ah, so any wire should work. I have some leftover wire from my school project, I guess I can use that then.both red and green are connections to make, using different colors is just to make is more readable
Looking at the image, the green means I need to connect both solder hole right? With the wire.
As for the red, I still don't really understand what you're trying to say.
Thanks for the feedback because I don't really have someone to ask about this kind of thing.
>Looking at the image, the green means I need to connect both solder hole right? With the wire.
Yes, but still not sure about it as it is difficult to see traces from the images.
Ideally a multimeter would be handy to see if I am right or not ...
For the red case you have to solder a wire from the switch hole directly on the pole of the diole.
Do you have any copper left on your holes (on the other side of the PCB or inside the hole) ?
Before soldering anything short the working switch pin at the end of green to the diode at the end of red - this bypasses the broken switch pads and should type a W. If it does you need to solder the lines as people said, if not don't. (It seems strange that the diodes also connect across, but many commercial keyboard designers appear to be crazy so it may well be right!)
Yes, just touch the two points with anything conductive. This is exactly what the switch (probably) does when you press it so there's no risk of damaging anything. Worst case that's not what the W switch does and you'll get another letter instead.
The diode is a good place to solder to, the other end is also soldered so it wont move.
Also the green line runs under the diode but it doesn't connect to it. You would need to solder both ends of both lines if the touch test works. Doesn't matter where your wire runs, keyboards don't have problems with interference.
So I just finished creating the jump wire. Here is what it looks like:Show Image(https://i.imgur.com/PnKHjpv.jpg?1)
And now the "W" key is finally working again. The rest of keyboard and LEDs also works like normal.
Thank you very much for the suggestion and showing me the solution for my problem.
I guess it's case closed then. Again, thank you very much :)
Well done !
You did quite well for your soldering job ;)
Was not sure about the green wire (could not see well on your images), saw that I was wrong, haha!
A good purchase for your next unsoldering attempt would be to buy a good manual desoldering pump and a basic mutimeter (with continuity test feature).
Those are very cheap to purchase and can be useful in cases like this :p