geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: PTRS on Sun, 20 December 2020, 14:31:31
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Is it problem for you to use usb-c port in your keyboard ?
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I would actually prefer a keyboard with the USB-C connector. It's just much easier to plug.
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Type-C is just a connector but it partly breaks old usb standards so you can't always just add a type-C port to something.
If you have a device with mini or micro B connecting to a type-A port and you want to change out the mini/micro to a type C it's a one for one swap and there will be no issues becase type-A has no way of checking. However if you later connect that to a type-C laptop or desktop (type-C to type-C) you may have problems because of it not identifying itself. Devices plugged into a type-C port are supposed to identify if they are a primary (laptop) or secondary (peripheral) device by using a small resistor to connect two wires. While USB is supposed to fallback to old USB when this isn't present it doesn't always work because USB standards are lax and even then not enforced. Adapters that convert Type-A and B to type-C usually have this resistor built into them but since you converted to C at the other end you won't have an adapter to put it in.
My advice, if it has a micro-B connection get a magnetic usb cable, it's even easier than Type-C, I have this on all my micro and type-c boards. The bummer is there is no magnetic cables for mini B so it's not really a solution for that. I add a type-c dongle and magnetic adapter, but when I eventually do go all type-C I may have to either mod a cable or change the port.
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thanks!
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I actually have a Tada68 that had the Mini B connector break, so I decided to upgrade it to USB C. I used the Adafruit USB C breakout board and just soldered it up. Works perfectly, even USB-C to USB-C.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uHTYf0-V-5p6FS2VGS7WpsBZ3IMt9gwx6nJx4uKA2771EIdw55njJeysYOlwVrxlAZUyooqYGbATjKaJVtZBW-6t-YaotA-TBeEP3AOPPFimQXq6W48Sc88IZwy2O_VKmrV3wbt02yhZQltBfI0-FlfzF9S041QQVx7cVPZ5EhWTyIwIi1fozq3xNVbqTbtWGUvyc6d1pgWHYeoCi_2iqO70OkIP6fKCoPlgzODxUL3YrvxKs4rD0Vjav_7gKJ7Q4CS5Tdk9bYQ5zqqQ7CK1T-bunBXjG4Myyysu3MA6rmHycg-F2xElrgQs0z4KU2jZkUOoKxzgP-qCbRWsXZ37yIouU7tYyFZpkxCXW1jZwk-YvmM2N47VdbZwudlIrPXYk4i7OcrxCpTes6_xg7dD6wTZ4EiJKPHIJEqFEO2ZS2VUsAtc-owtp0TW7yqWHG7m-QxQA7LLMqTVxW_X6lxr5XlbTop5-D1dovzrTHP3J0SuKGrRIZWKcOW1CiIPHhBafD3LgrdhlLWX5LGMhx0Ww8AOeR1Cj1pUrMhZVC7hyoWBCrJOEgY5pU7I8PfM_lv1gzm1pJfUdFq7IECCQZ76n7ZKAwz-sDg58Ao11tSAsJV57doNJl_8b2fF6HZtiZN2MXmB_5htTx6hR0ZSOqONjjpMc32bb7RmhpJfaCsMylhqCxDIsWl5AhFiaQpEAaQ=w1002-h1335-no?authuser=0)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Ho2aNT9WRG6dQ-FNLI301wuOgBNAVLXo7SyzB_5-eHXv5sIsephccC_sC-rBYUQH7y4e6ohjHm76U1xUxwanTQQeL7pGJcQt8zy8EoVd4-tvlm-sebBInMMUfwHcgR_Lo7rziZ8cMlPJv9d9OHUABDBN7VO2ISqWieEGA2sw7k57OcaYSX_GiVjtdKhUvS9QXAZ9jKwumi2lWiHE3_x-WkJNfGh51jOv_qH1x_Qne59-IkJkpiz0gFoF1FCxrwSgQ8LKCJPiR3YhfqMjqSs_jXyU1_lrBGXLv2DZkqTWX2eB9YiOTN9r-Y-26VRt605E8xJlMxpf_1nIOBxjEK1QIJDqCKhrfD9WzDLCroGqx-Xy-uditOIYBEDS0mePAGXN4XeC_kCWCRRlXX5rEp41cbkeorWpBQIk6CGwPKU6q0E8IE6tngVdZ-WubWa0WQwgO1JF9H9qVUGyYQWQokDeV0-FieGRF5G-y9qghJc7NGAsvJuSOdI425i9cf3znMklQ52mYYf4D8dvZp-Cq9pmP7pnmJLzX3I36N4LHqLt68ydRXVbyhw-BWd5oH15R5LifhbFPik2G2-u4Wh3IzImtKjMjsJ005pOA4NAxcg0oplqmK3Xz5X85VfMY4DHcuK6r85vXpJFpzdHK_w1CaB7UG2z_GHTVP-gBJij2AM-p1UZETdZdvW17eZQ2jNoAg=w1002-h1335-no?authuser=0)
https://www.adafruit.com/product/4090
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I actually have a Tada68 that had the Mini B connector break, so I decided to upgrade it to USB C. I used the Adafruit USB C breakout board and just soldered it up. Works perfectly, even USB-C to USB-C.
That's because Adafruit pre-installed the resistors for identification, it's not a straight wire pass through.
In most of the pics on the Adafruit site it's one of the two resistors on the left side of the connector.
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A bit OT. Perhaps someone will help me. I got a $250 Lemo cable Free from a Friend. USB'C' of course. The connector is simply shrink wrapped. It is much smaller than the jack. So it is making intermittent contact. Causing constant lock up's. I was wondering if anyone can think of a way to fix this. Short of soldering on a new connector? Thank you
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Sometimes you can just smash the top down a teeny bit (keyboard side) to increase pressure and contact.
This works on mini and micro B as well, though those also will have the housing separate.
BEWARE... If you go too far you won't be able to get the cable to plug in and this will probably happen again, faster than it did the first time as the metal gets bent/stretched/weakened/hardened. In other words, this has the chance to not only damage the connector but more than likely will cause loneger term issues but considering the situation, better for now is better than not working at all.
Side note: $250 cable? WHY?
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She makes very fancy cables. I was lucky she gave me one. I would not purchase one. I agree.
You are thinking plastic case. This is many pounds of Stainless Steel. I do not wish to mess with anything on this board anyway. I think the only way may be to have someone put a larger connector on the cable.
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She makes very fancy cables. I was lucky she gave me one. I would not purchase one. I agree.
You are thinking plastic case. This is many pounds of Stainless Steel. I do not wish to mess with anything on this board anyway. I think the only way may be to have someone put a larger connector on the cable.
Not sure what the case has to do with anything, I was referring to the actual port housing on the board. Squish that.
The keyboard housing rarely actually holds the cable.
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I misunderstood you.