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geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: grilkip on Fri, 13 August 2010, 10:43:54
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I accidentally spilled beer over the left portion of my Filco tenkeyless with browns.
I disassembled it as far as I could to find out the obvious, you can't really disassemble the switches themselves, which had had a beer injection. The beeredness of the switches made them hard to press the first few times after you hadn't typed a while, causing password typing havoc, and they also released a bit slower.
Anyway, I tried some 96% alcohol, I used a Q-tip to put some on the switch while it was pressed down and then rocked it some. It works for like... a few minutes.
Here comes the answer I knew beforehand would come out, but tried to deny.
WD40
The answer to all of man's problems, McGyver's McGyver.
FYI, a WD40 spray can puts out a lot more than you need for a single switch, I used a box cutter (because it has an appropriate shape) and sprayed that, whiped off the excess and applied it to a pressed switch.
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I disassembled it as far as I could to find out the obvious, you can't really disassemble the switches themselves, which had had a beer injection. The beeredness of the switches made them hard to press the first few times after you hadn't typed a while, causing password typing havoc, and they also released a bit slower.
Glad to hear you got it working, and I must say, "beeredness" is a great word :D
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I'm open to other ideas. Silicone grease?
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Nah, I wouldn't worry about it. If the switch does corrode out you can always replace it in the future.
I suppose that now that the icky key behaviour has gone, I could add a bit of silicone grease anyway, just to prevent them babies from getting dry.
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You should fine the beer company $20 billion.
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Hmmmm
Personally I'd leave it, and if the keys start to feel different then blast them all with wd40, then put a tiny bit of white lithium in each key (with the key pressed) then 'blast' the grease in via compressed air.
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Ever since I had the same beer accident and used the "sink it in 96% alcohol" treatment most of the switches feel different then before, I also hear some of the the springs squeaky. Should I apply some WD40 to all my switches as well? Because I do think the switches felt different before.
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So I should get some silicone grease then.
Is it possible to just put it inside? or do I really need to open it up when using silicone grease? Because I'm really trying to avoid that.
Edit: Bah I suppose so, maybe I'll just use WD40 then. If it all goes bad in a years time I can always open it up.
Edit2: SpatiallyAware: "Personally I'd leave it, and if the keys start to feel different then blast them all with wd40, then put a tiny bit of white lithium in each key (with the key pressed) then 'blast' the grease in via compressed air."
Hmmm would this work? Any others that can underline it? Also what is the normal method?
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I don't see how you could blast wd40 into the key and not in your face.
Just take the caps off, depress one of the switches and leave some 'product' along the edges.
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No i meant if its not better to use something else instead of WD40 as a oil. Since WD40 isnt really one.
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Nice find, But I'll follow your advice and look if I can get some silicone grease then. As I rather have it just working for years to come then using a cheap fix temporarily and having to deal with the consequences later on.
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Looks like I have to take back my WD40 hallelujah, the most affected keys are starting to get stiff again.
Will get some silicone grease soon. :|
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I'm gonna post my solution to beer spill, not WD40 but Griffon's IMAL kruipolie, its a dutch name of the product but i think its a international brand. But the main important thing about this stuff is that its based on graphite. the nice thing about that is that it works perfectly fine with electrical components, as in it won't effect electrical current.
Its been working for more then a week now perfectly fine, all the keys feel great.
product features,
IMAL stands for: makes everything lose in dutch. (Ik maak alles los)
it protects
it smears
it has a powerfull penetration ability
it makes rust go away really well
rust and corrosion prevention
with graphite
easy to use..
Or so they claim, its also advertised as a proffesional product. But I have a feeling its not available in the US, so thats a bummer for you people. But you could look for products based on graphite.
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I've been keeping a silicone spray can near for a while. It works better than WD40. I did need to replenish my capslock though.
Mind: it gives the switches a slightly different feel, can't really put it into words. It's tollerable though.
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*randomly bursts into song*
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The graphite hasn't affected the current from my keyboard as far as i can notice, it works perfectly fine, and it types great again.
oh and its nice that it worked with the silicone grease.