I keep hearing about rivets, but I dont know what that refers to. What are they and what do they do?
Second, whats the best way to clean it?
Lastly, is there anything else I should know about it?
The Model M' uses plastic rivets (http://i.imgur.com/Q7G2T.jpg) to hold the top part of the internal keyboard assembly to a metal plate. Over time these plastic rivets can weaken and fail, with the heads of the rivets falling off. The end result is at best a less solid-feeling board, and at worst the board will become problematic or stop functioning all together.
Find a thin-walled 5.5mm (7/32") driver. You can order one of these (http://www.preater.com/modelm/images/model-m-nutdriver-small.jpg) on the internet, or simply go to Osh or Sears and purchase a thin-walled 7/32" socket. They can be difficult to find, but they're out there.
Remove the four screws on the back of the board and separate the two plastic halves. Soak the top half in a solution of hot water and your cleaner of choice. I use OxiClean and dish detergent. You could also just throw it in the dishwasher.
I prefer not to soak the rear plastic piece, as doing so could destroy the 'birth certificate' label on the back. Instead, clean it by hand with some soapy water, avoiding disturbing the label.
Meanwhile, remove all of the keycaps by pulling firmly on each key. Soak them in a similar solution. If you have an M with the single-piece keys, the keycaps can still be removed (takes a bit more effort), but you will see a spring inside of a cylinder after removing them. Don't worry, the keys will simply snap back in place.
Use compressed air and Q-tips to clean the remaining keyboard assembly.
After soaking the plastic parts for a bit, use a scouring pad to remove any marks/glue/old tape/etc. Model Ms clean up fairly easily, and I've yet to find one that doesn't look close to new after a bit of effort.
Depending on how dirty they were, the keys might require no more effort than simply soaking them and allowing them to dry. If they are still dirty after soaking, use an old toothbrush to remove any remaining grime.
Let everything dry, then reassemble.
Some PS/2 to USB converters are screwy, and will stop working. I had to return one and purchase another, which has worked flawlessley. Try to find one of the ones listed on this website. I'll see if I can find the url.
They're as loud as their reputation. Expect others in your household to comment on this.
They are as awesome as you've heard. Enjoy it.
Hope this helps.
Wow, this was a very thorough and good reply. Thanks for all the info. Also, I plan to use it with a PS2 port anyway, so I wont have any problems with converters.
Thanks Thirdlap! I was going to ask this same question soon myself. I'm about to pick up a stash of 4 Model M's and I'm expecting to need to do a little cleaning and refurbishing before they're ready for the world.
No prob. FWIW, the PS/2 port on my motherboard (Gigabyte MA790XT-UD4P) does not recognize my M, or any of my old PS/2 keyboards for that matter. Apparently some modern motherboards have this issue.
Couldn't you replace the plastic rivets with metal rivets if you wanted a more solid connection?
Here. (http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=Island:6615)
Now the IronMan of keyboards. Indestructable except by spilled beers.Show Image(http://geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=3332&stc=1&d=1248571067)
It's in the mod description but basically strength and ability to easily do different other mods like changing which keys are active (International Mini mod), spring swaps, tightening/loosening to taste.
Plus, it looks awesome. Please post further questions in the mod thread.
Nice cleaning guide ThirdLap. I added link to your post in the "All About Keys" wiki.
Welcome to the Mechanical Keyboard Klub!
Now I gotta run to Sears and get a driver to clean this thing. It's been used, that's for sure.
Here's a tip: don't flip the keyboard upside down and shake it, 'cause, dirt and stuff can go to the top of the keycaps, and fall down into the spring assembly. It actually can happen even with rubber domes.
I shake upside down all the time my kids filthy Unicomp, but end with a few sideways shakes. No problems yet.
For one, I can't really imagine dust getting into the barrels that easily. Even if they did, the membrane is covered by a rubber sheet, so it's far better sealed than a rubber dome keyboard.
Everything is cleaned up, and this keyboard looks basically brand new. In agreement from what I've heard, this thing is hefty and built like a tank. It is fairly loud, but not too annoying for me. I do like the feel, but the actuation force is a little high for my taste. Who knows? Maybe I'll grow to like it. I might also pick up something with cherry blues or similar because I think that'd be close, but with less force required. I've also swapped the caps to colemak without any issues of uneven tops.
You get use to it. After using a Model M, I can hardly use anything else b/c they feel too light. I tried a Cherry Blue and Cherry Brown, each didn't feel very good compared to the Model M.
I can type all day on a Model M and while I sometimes feel like my fingers are getting a workout, I have no fatigue or pain or anything. Heck, maybe the Model M is even good for you.
So I'm guessing you're done with the Realforce then? :P
-edit-
Nevermind, read your signature. Heh.
If I can find tenkeyless Realforce in white, I may buy one.
The Unicomp grey keys are good for this. Not as nice looking as black on black, but a good compromise between looks and feasibility.
True. I liked them quite a bit when I had a Black Customizer 104. Did you notice they have a bit of glitter in them? I think they call the color 'metallic'.