geekhack
geekhack Community => Keyboards => Topic started by: jcoffin1981 on Mon, 22 November 2021, 22:20:07
-
I realize that there are numerous threads on lubrication. With that said, Krytox GL 105 is almost never recommended for switches- springs only. Is there a reason for this? I have used light grease before and while the switch was incredibly smooth, it just felt sluggish. I did noticed this- when the lube (Krytox 105) is applied to the slider it actually beads. Does anyone have a definitive reason not to use oil? I think it feels great.
[attach=1]
-
From what I know, the standard reason is that it'll fall off over time and if applied poorly, it'll go everywhere and mess **** up.
Also why 205g0 is sometimes avoided for stabs, while thickish, it's not thick enough to last the test of time
Edit: although idk, I feel like 105 is usually always recced for tactiles, its usually always thin tactile, thick linear, super thick stab
-
The only lube I've gotten away with in MX Browns is 3203, and even then, they were modified Browns with the stems inside OUTEMU Blue Ice housings.
Yeah, it was a real careful coat of 3203, avoiding the tactile legs, and the lube was stem-only. Springs were lubed 55 G Spirit. They're actually excellent Ergo Browns, but difficult to build.
Lubing Browns is not the most popular thing. They don't seem to benefit from it as much as some other switches, but I guess it can lead to improvement with the right lube and technique.
-
I lubed the spring, the side rails, and the side of the stem that touches the housing. It feels and sounds like a different switch. I stayed away from the legs and the leaf so there is no change in tactility. If however the lube won't stay in place and it has to be redone in say a few months that would not be cool. I've ordered 3203 and I will lube another board for comparison, but I really like how this feels. Grease, even if used sparingly I feel it changes the action of the switch and makes it feel sluggish. Most people it seems really hate MX Browns anyway. I'd say there was a huge benefit. I just don't understand why GPL 105 is generally frowned upon for tactiles.
-
I've always wanted to use 105 for light tactiles, but don't have any. Guess I'll have to get a vial. Hope that the leaking isn't really an issue.
-
For light tactiles like browns I only lube the bottom housing rails to make consistent as possible and to avoid getting lube on the legs. Browns already have a small tactile lube and if lube gets on the legs its becomes almost a linear switch.
I used thick lube thin lube with this method it doesn't really matter it ends up being preference in my case.
-
I spent a LOT of time lubing my Browns. Now it comes time to solder the switches in place and about 20% of them have lost all of their tactility. I would be fine with that if they were consistent. I was meticulous about application and did not go anywhere near the legs. It seems the Krytox 105 is not very viscous and it migrates. It's too bad because I really like using the stuff. I have Molykote EM-30L and used it on a few switches and it feels great. It's specifically formulated for plastic on plastic. I've also ordered Krytox 205 and Tribosys 3203/4. I'm going to try them all and see what comes out the most favorable.
Now to get the Krytox off the switches. From what I understand there is no great solvent for it. I can try scrubbing with alcohol, and I also have an ultrasonic. It may just be easier to buy new switches.
*edit" It is possible these keys were less tactile before I lubed them. I did not check to see if they were uniform.
-
My friend uses dielectric grease.
Told him not to and he still did it, sounds arguably better than the browns I have lmao
-
This is why I make Ergo Clears.