what about interference with the modifiers on shortcuts?
Assuming you have your heart set on backlit I'd wait until the Razer ships. If the reviews look good buy that.
Deck would be my second choice but since I like tenkeyless that confines me to Cherry Blacks and I can't stand those for typing. Also, the flat profile from row to row of the Deck keys I think would bug me. I don't trust the Xarmor and they are only available from one retailer right now where the Razer will get HEAVILY discounted.
And there IS no consensus here on what switch is best for what, only statistics (and that's pretty skewed to typing). (http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?t=6626)
lol. I sent the Deck Hammer to your inbox Nadger.
Wait for the iOne XArmor U9BL-S. I did a review of the MX blue version here, http://hardwareaware.com/review/xarmor-u9bl/ The U9BL-S will have MX browns which are generally considered a good compromise between typing and gaming. Personally they're my favorite switch. Also, their tactile bump is a boon to gaming, because it gives you a "ledge" affect, where you can partway depress the switch and hold it right about the actuation point with very little effort, cutting 1mm off the travel when you need to move in the game meaning a millisecond faster reaction.
Personally I find MX browns the best for typing and gaming and my two favorite keyboards are the MX SPOS and G80-8200 with MX browns, but your mileage may vary.
so they nullify other shortcuts? a lot of applications use Shift Keys for shortcuts. if I want to mute I press Shift + F1 but would the application also activate the shortcut? or will it null?
I think it will null in that situation. But I don't know if it's implemented at the hardware or driver level. If it's at the driver level you could easily work around with AHK. But if it's hardware you're stuck with it.
thanks. why didn't you find out? :(
The linear switches have an almost consistent force through the entire stroke of the key. This means that when you first start pressing down on the key all the way until you completely bottom the key out as far as it can go, the force you feel at your finger remains the same. Not much feedback besides when you feel the "thud" at the bottom.
The tactile switches have a slightly elevated force around the midpoint of the stroke of the key. So, when you have pressed the key down about halfway, the force increases slightly for a brief moment, and then goes back to normal. This gives your fingers an indication that the key has been pressed so you can stop pressing the key and let up to move on to another key faster.
And i would def want the ps2 version of the tactile deck legend frost for NKRO correct?
The keyboard interface can be changed from PS/2 to USB and vice-versa. Converting the keyboard from USB to PS/2 is not recommended unless you are competent at de-soldering electronic components. Please read all instructions before beginning.
In either case, the keyboard must be disassembled by removing the screws from the bottom side of the enclosure using the appropriate sized Phillips head screwdriver. After removing the screws, turn the keyboard upright and carefully separate the top half from the bottom half. Note the routing of the data cord for strain relief purposes so that it can be routed the same way when the keyboard is reassembled. Also, note the location of the “W3” located on the printed circuit board above and between the “F4” and “F5” keys.
If converting from PS/2 to USB, unplug the USB end of the data cord from the Type A USB receptacle located at “J2” and plug the PS/2 end into the 6 pin mini-DIN female receptacle at “J1”’ which is located above and between the “F12” and “PrtSc” keys. Then clip-out and discard the 10K Ohm resistor at “W3”. Reverse the steps to reassemble the keyboard and follow the USB installation instructions.
If converting from USB to PS/2, unplug and remove the PS/2 end of the data cord from “J1” and plug the USB end of the data cord into the Type A receptacle which is located at “J2”. Use a soldering iron and solder removal tool to remove the lead clippings from “W3”. Then solder a through-hole, 10K, 1/4W, 5% resistor at “W3”. Reverse the steps to reassemble the keyboard and follow the PS/2 installation instructions.
I read your review of the xarmor and you mentioned it has rubberized coating on the keys. While i initially liked this on my Lycosa, as i used it more and more the W A and D keys i wore the rubber off of. How does the rubber stand up to punishment over time?
My lycosa has dedicated media keys that i never use and USB ports that I never use.
The frost Deck uses mx clears, from the charts clears are very similar to browns except they take a bit more force to trigger. Is that how they feel too?
I think it's worth pointing out that hysteresis (the reset point issue you're talking about) does not affect the switche's electrical operation. I spent time on both the Das and XArmor exploring this.
If you depress the switch, and then release it partway to just before the reset point, then depress it again it will actuate. However the white clicker on the slider won't be in position to click. So a blue below the reset point feels like a linear. But if you let it up a little higher, to the reset point, then press right away the clicker will come partway up and "jam" briefly before going down and the key actuating. For those familiar with switches, imagine the feel of an ML switch sticking when you hit it on a corner.
So hovering is possible, but not recommended since it's easy to get into that jamming situation, plus it takes concentration to keep below the reset point. Not worth it. And if you do it on accident it feels very weird and is mildly distracting.
It is very possible to game on blues, but you have to train yourself to let the key come all the way back up before pressing it again (or already do that on your other keyboards I guess), and also learn how to do quick double taps while taking your finger all the way up. Oh, and if getting an MX blue board for gaming, don't get one made by Cherry themselves, since they use green switches for spacebars on MX blue keyboards which, if they're anything like MX grays, would be too stiff to double jump effectively using that method.
I looked into topre a bit. The design of them is very cool but i don't like the idea different weights on w a and d. makes sense for a typing keyboard but not so much gaming.
The deck is also a linear version and hes hitting the keys very hard and bottoming out. Heck even my rubber dome lycosa would be loud as hell playing that game like that.
How would you rate all the switches in order of sound btw?
Are browns and clears about the same volume level?
Earmuffs.Show Image(http://blog.craftzine.com/katmari_earmuffs.jpg)